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AFRICA 


THE  HISTORY  OF 

Exploration  and  Adventure 

AS  GIVEN  IN  THE  LEADING  AUTHORITIES 

FROM 

HERODOTUS  TO  LIVINGSTONE 


BY 

CHARLES  H.  JONES 


WITH  MAP  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


NEW  YORK 

HENRY  HOLT  AND  COMPANY 
i875 

Republished  1971 
Negro  History  Press,  P.0.  Box  5129 
Detroit,  Michigan  48236 


Library  of  Congress  Catalog  Card  Number:  70-1  16301 
ISBN  No.  0-403-00375-X 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1875,  by 
HEN11Y  HOLT, 

In  the  Ofllce  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


<U o0.1 
Jll-CL 
iqn  i 


PREFACE. 


Our  knowledge  of  the  geography  and  peoples  of  Africa  has 
grown  very  rapidly  during  the  past  thirty  years,  and  is  grow- 
ing still.  Probably  no  portion  of  the  world  has  been  made 
the  subject  of  so  many  books  in  so  short  a time ; and  these, 
added  to  the  records  of  earlier  explorers,  constitute  a literature 
of  such  dimensions  that  only  those  readers  who  have  abundant 
leisure,  and  who  are  conversant  with  at  least  three  languages, 
can  hope  to  become  familiar  with  it.  And  yet  nearly  every 
intelligent  reader,  especially  when  any  new  book  of  African 
travel  has  attracted  his  attention,  desires  to  have  a distinct  and 
definite  conception  of  what  has  been  accomplished,  and  of 
what  remains  -to  be  accomplished,  in  the  way  of.  discovery ; 
it  is  impossible,  for  instance,  for  any  one  to  grasp  the  really 
important  facts  in  Dr.  Schweinfurth’s  great  work,  or  in  Living- 
stone’s recently  published  “Journals,”  without  knowing  just 
how  far  the  discoveries  therein  recorded  supplement  those  of 
other  explorers,  and  what  relation  they  bear  to  the  existing 
body  of  geographical  and  ethnographical  knowledge.  To 
supply  such  information  is  the  object  of  the  present  work.  If 
its  execution  corresponds  with  its  plan,  the  reader  will  find  here 
a record  of  explorations  in  Africa  from  the  time  of  the  Phoe- 
nicians to  the  death  of  Livingstone,  comprehensive  enough  to 
put  him  in  possession  of  all  the  essential  facts  and  successive 
steps  in  the  opening  of  that  mysterious  continent,  and  at  the 
same  time  detailed  enough  to  give  him  a fair  conception  of  the 
work  performed  by  each  of  the  more  prominent  individual  ex- 
plorers. 


IV 


PREFACE. 


Its  usefulness,  however,  will  not,  it  is  believed,  be  confined 
to  the  class  of  busy  readers  above  indicated.  Those  who 
read  for  themselves  the  numerous  books  of  African  travel, 
can  only  by  the  closest  attention  to  the  text  and  persistent 
study  of  the  maps  understand  what  relation  the  work  of  each 
explorer  bears  to  that  of  the  others.  To  the  difficulty,  in  it- 
self great,  of  carrying  many  details  in  the  mind,  is  to  be  added 
that  which  comes  from  the  diversity  of  nomenclature  on  the 
part  of  the  various  writers.  Scarcely  any  two  of  them  give  the 
same  name  to  any  comparatively  obscure  place,  and  when  they 
do,  are  very  likely  to  spell  it  in  a different  way.  The  Londa 
country,  for  instance,  of  Livingstone’s  first  book,  is  the  same 
as  the  Cazembe  of  his  second,  while  Magyar,  who  was  the  first 
to  explore  it,  writes  of  it  as  the  Moluwa  kingdom.  The 
Uganda  and  Karagwe,  which  Burton  describes  on  hearsay  evi- 
dence in  his  book,  are  by  no  means  the  Uganda  and  Karagwe  of 
Speke.  And  the  Bari  tribe  of  Speke  becomes  the  Barra  nation 
in  Baker’s  last  book.  Such  diversities  as  these  are  innumera- 
ble ; and  if  the  present  work  did  no  more  than  remove  them, 
it  would  relieve  the  study  of  African  exploration  of  a most 
fruitful  source  of  confusion. 

As  to  the  special  contents  of  the  book,  while  the  first  care  has 
been  to  make  the  record  of  geographical  discoveries  complete, 
scarcely  less  attention  has  been  bestowed  upon  the  accounts 
of  the  character,  habits,  customs,  industries,  and  distinguishing 
traits  of  such  members  of  that  vast  network  of  tribes  which 
makes  up  the  savage  population  of  Africa  as  modern  travellers 
have  made  known  to  us.  In  these  respects  the  comparatively 
brief  chapters  of  the  present  work  are  scarcely  less  full  than  the 
original  bulky  volumes  from  which  the  material  for  them  was 
taken.  The  portion  of  the  various  narratives  which  has  been 
only  slightly  touched  upon  is  that — a considerable  part  of  the 
whole — which  relates  to  purely  personal  experiences,  and  ad- 
ventures of  little  or  no  importance ; but  even  of  these  the  most 


PREFACE. 


characteristic  have  been  retained,  and  are  described  for  the 
most  part  in  the  authors’  own  words. 

The  introductory  chapter  and  the  chapter  on  Christian 
Missions  were  taken — after  such  elisions,  additions,  and  alter- 
ations as  to  make  them  substantially  new — from  a work  on 
African  exploration,  as  viewed  from  the  missionary  stand-point, 
which  appeared  recently  in  England.  In  the  preliminary 
sketches  and  summaries,  the  most  authentic  materials  to  be  ob- 
tained were  used;  and  where  detailed  accounts  of  separate 
journeys  are  given,  the  reports  of  those  who  performed  them 
have  been  consulted  without  partiality  or  bias  of  any  kind. 

No  special  mention  of  the  sources  from  which  the  illustra- 
tions were  taken  is  necessary,  as  they  came  in  most  instances 
from  the  various  works  which  furnished  the  substance  of  the 
text.  C.  H.  J. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

PA  OH 

Topographical  and  General 1 

CHAPTER  II. 

Madagascar 35 

CHAPTER  III. 

Notices  of  Earlier  African  Travellers 42 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Recent  Explorations. 53 

CHAPTER  Y. 

Barth,  Overweg,  and  Richardson. — Ashantee Cl 

CHAPTER  YI. 

Livingstone’s  Earlier  Journeys 87 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Livingstone’s  Journey  Across  the  Continent 107 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Andersson’s  Explorations  in  South  Africa 152 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Magyar’s  Explorations  in  South  Africa 171 

CHAPTER  X. 

Du  Chaillu’s  Explorations  in  Equatorial  Africa 184 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Serval’s  Travels  on  the  Ogowai 231 


CONTENTS. 


viii 

CHAPTER  XII. 

PAOK 

Barton  and  Speke 238 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Speke  and  Grant 207 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Sir  Samuel  Baker 292 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Livingstone’s  Discovery  of  Lake  Nyassa 335 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Stanley  and  Livingstone 355 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Livingstone’s  Last  Journeys  and  Death 375 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Schweinfurth 419 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Sir  Bartle  Frere’s  Mission  to  Zanzibar 458 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Christian  Missions  in  Africa 404 

CHAPTER  XXI. 


Moffat,  the  Missionary. 


471 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Steel  Portrait  of  Rev.  David  Livingstone To  face  title. 

Map  of  Africa,  showing  tiie  Routes  of  the  Leading  Explor- 
ers  To  face  page  1 

Near  Delagoa  Bay  on  the  Eastern  Coast To  face  page  6 

Zulu  Town To  face  page  30 

Iron  Smelters  in  Madagascar 36 

Native  Village  on  the  Niger To  face  page  50 

Tail-piece 52 

Tail-piece ! 60 

Baobab  Tree 64 

Execution  in  Segu To  face  page  80 

Livingstone  under  the  Lion To  face  page  90 

Seciiele,  Chief  of  tiie  Bakuena 91 

Palmyra  Palm 95 

Tsetse  Fly 101 

Alligators  in  the  Zouga 106 

Hottentot  Kraal To  face  page  111 

Moonlight  dance To  face  page  116 

Marimba  Musician 134 

TnE  Victoria  Falls  of  the  Zambesi  River To  face  page  147 

Batoka  Salutations 149 

Ovambo  : Man  and  Wife 157 

Andersson  attacked  by  an  Elephant To  face  page  161 

Hippopotamus  hunting 164 

Tail-piece 170 

Magyar’s  ascent  of  the  Coast  Range To  face  page  173 

Moluwa  War-dance To  face  page  181 

Snake  hunt  in  the  Dilolo  Swamps 182 

Kimbunda  Weapons 183 

Waterfall  of  the  Ntambunay To  face  page  193 

King  Ndiayai  . . 197 

Young  Gorilla 204 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Wedding  preparations  among  the  Ararat 219 

Head  of  the  Gorilla 220 

Human  Skeleton 228 

Gorilla  Skeleton 229 

Gorilla 200 

King  Jondo-Goiro 205 

Native  Idol  from  Anengue  Lake 200 

Tail-piece 207 

Tiie  Encampment  in  Ugogo 'To  face  page  240 

Navigation  on  Lake  Tanganyika , To  face  pa  ye  2(51 

Tail-piece 200 

Departure  of  Captains  Speke  and  Grant To  face  pa  ye  209 

Grant  on  iiis  Way  from  Karagwe To  face  pa  ye  285 

Ripon  Falls To  face  page  28(5 

Elephant  attacked  ry  Swordsmen To  face  paye  290 

A Lion  Hunt To  face  paye  299 

Katciiira  and  iiis  Here  on  a Journey 002 

The  Start  from  tiie  M’Rooli  for  the  Lake,  with  Kamrasl’s 

Satanic  Escort 'To  face  paye  010 

Murchison  Falls To  face  paye  018 

The  Welcome  on  our  return  to  Camp  at  Siiooa To  face  paye  020 

Zambesi  Blacksmiths To  face  paye  009 

Hottentot  Grave 044 

Livingstone’s  Steamer  surrounded  by  Crocodiles.  .To  face  paye  048 

‘Dr.  Livingstone,  I presume?” To  face  paye  005 

Implements  of  War 0^4 

Slave  Caravan To  face  page  077 

Head-dresses  in  Londa  (Lunda)  089 

Hippopotamus  Family To  face  paye  410 

Mittoo  Women 1 400 

King  Munza  in  full  dress To  face  page  440 

Bomry  the  Akka 454 

Mosiiesii,  Chief  of  the  Basutos 4S7 


AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  great  continent  of  Africa  until  within 
the  past  twenty-five  years  was  very  limited.  The  Phoenicians 
are  known  to  have  formed  colonies  on  the  northern  coast  at  a 
very  early  period,  perhaps  not  less  than  three  thousand  years 
ago.  The  conquest  of  Cambyses  dates  as  far  back  as  the 
year  n.  c.  525.  Therefore,  at  that  time,  the  coasts  of  Egypt, 
of  the  Red  Sea,  and  the  Mediterranean  were  settled,  and 
were  well  known  to  the  ancient  Asiatics,  who  were  constantly 
crossing  the  narrow  isthmus  which  divided  their  country 
from  Africa,  and  which  led  them  at  once  from  parched  des- 
erts into  a fertile  valley,  watered  by  a magnificent  river. 
Herodotus  tells  uS  that  Necho,  King  of  Egypt,  sent  out  an 
expedition  under  the  command  of  certain  Phoenician  seamen, 
with  the  design  of  circumnavigating  Africa.  If  these  ex- 
plorers ever  accomplished  their  purpose,  the  result  is  not 
known.  Half  a century  afterwards  there  was  another  ex- 
pedition, of  which  we  know  only  the  fact  of  its  existence. 
Discovery  there  was  none. 

The  Ptolemies  were  the  great  patrons  "bf  science  and  discov- 
ery in  their  time;  but,  notwithstanding  this  fact,  there  wa3 
but  little  progress  made,  under  their  direction,  in  the  knowl- 
edge of  Africa.  The  Romans,  who  subsequent!}'  possessed 
Egypt,  did  not  penetrate  beyond  their  own  dependencies. 
We  have  no  means  of  judging  as  to  the  knowledge  of  Interior 
Africa  which  was  obtained  by  the  Carthaginians.  Their  mer- 
chants, it  is  said,  had  reached  the  banks  of  the  Niger ; but 
there  is  no  evidence  to  show  that  they  had  ever  gone  so  far. 


2 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


Delisle,  Iluet,  and  Bocliart,  in  later  times,  extended  the  knowl- 
edge of  the  country  as  far  south  as  Mozambique  and  Mada- 
gascar. But  even  these  were  disputed,  and  unacknowledged 
as  discoveries. 

In  respect  to  the  interior  of  Northern  Africa,  our  first  authen- 
tic information  is  obtained  from  the  Arabs,  who,  by  means  of 
the  camel,  were  enabled  to  cross  the  great  desert  to  the  centre 
of  the  continent,  and  to  proceed  along  the  two  coasts  as  far  as 
the  Senegal  and  the  Gambia  on  the  west,  and  to  Sofala  on  the 
east.  Here  the  Arabs,  at  a remote  date,  planted  colonies,  at 
Sofala,  Mombas,  Melinda,  and  other  places. 

In  the  fifteenth  century  there  was  a new  era  in  maritime 
discovery.  The  voyages  of  the  Portuguese  were  the  first  to 
give  anything  like  an  accurate  outline  of  the  two  coasts,  and 
to  complete  the  circumnavigation  of  the  continent.  The 
discovery  of  America  and  the  islands  of  the  West  Indies  gave 
rise  to  that  horrid  traffic  in  the  sale  of  African  negroes  which 
has  continued  for  so  many  years,  and  which,  though  now 
happily  reduced  in  its  main  demands,  is  not  yet  quite  at  an 
end.  But  this  traffic,  nefarious  as  it  is  in  every  respect,  was 
the  means  of  obtaining  a more  extended  and  accurate  knowl- 
edge of  the  coast  as  it  lies  between  the  Rivers  Senegal  and  the 
Cameroons.  With  the  establishment  of  French  and  English 
settlements  in  Africa,  there  began  systematic  surveys  of  the 
coast  and  of  the  interior. 

Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort  thus  sums  up  the  surveys  of 
the  coast  of  Africa,  reaching  to  the  date  of  1818 : “ From  the 
Strait  of  Gibraltar,  the  western  coast  of  Africa  has  been  care- 
fully surveyed,  and  the  results  published  so  far  as  to  extend 
to  Cape  Formosa  in  the  Bight  of  Benin ; but  many  of  the 
ports  and  anchorages  on  this  side  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
require  a more  careful  and  connected  examination.  The 
charts  of  the  whole  of  the  Cape  Colony  are  exceedingly  defec- 
tive, although  they  have  been  much  improved  in  recent  years. 
From  Delagoa  to  the  Red  Sea,  and  the  whole  contour  of 
Madagascar,  are  sufficiently  represented  on  the  charts  for  the 
general  purposes  of  navigation,  though  many  other  researches 
along  the  former  coast  might  still  be  profitably  made.  The 
Red  Sea  has  been  well  surveyed  by  the  East  India  Compan}'.” 
The  northern  shore  of  Africa,  with  the  exception  of  Egypt,  has 
been  surveyed  by  the  English  and  French. 

Much  uncertainty  and  confusion  having  obtained  in  regard 
to  the  geography  of  the  interior  of  Africa,  a few  learned  and 
scien tihc  gentlemen  in  England  formed  themselves  into  a 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


3 


society  in  1788,  under  tlie  name  of  “ The  African  Association,” 
their  design  being  the  exploration  of  Inner  Africa.  Under 
the  auspices  of  this  Association,  important  additions  were  made 
to  the  geography  of  Africa  by  Houghton,  Mungo  Park, 
Hornemann,  and  Burckhardt.  But  repeated  failures  dis- 
couraged the  Society,  and  it  was  merged  in  the  Royal  Geo- 
graphical Society  in  1831. 

Much  more  has  been  done  during  the  last  eighty  years  to 
make  us  acquainted  with  the  geography  of  Africa  than  had 
been  accomplished  in  the  preceding  eighteen  centuries,  or 
since  the  days  of  Ptolemy.  Strictly  speaking,  it  was  with 
Mungo  Park  that  vigorous  efforts  to  explore  the  interior  of 
Africa  began.  He  went,  in  1795,  from  the  River  Gambia,  on 
the  south-west  coast,  to  the  Joliba  (or  Niger),  traced  this  river 
as  far  as  the  town  of  Silla,  explored  the  intervening  countries, 
determined  the  boundary  of  the  Sahara,  and  returned  in  1797. 
He  was  a most  adventurous  traveller,  and  proceeded  on  a 
second  journey  to  the  same  regions  in  1805,  with  the  design  of 
descending  the  Joliba  to  its  mouth.  But  this  expedition  did 
not  greatly  add  to  previous  knowledge,  and  it  cost  the  traveller 
his  life.  He  had  passed  Timbuctoo,  and  had  reached  Boussa, 
when  he  was  drowned  in  attempting  to  escape  from  the  natives. 

In  1799  Hornemann  went  from  Cairo  to  Murzook,  and  from 
that  place  transmitted  valuable  information  in  regard  to  the 
countries  lying  to  the  south,  especially  Bornu.  He  then  pro- 
ceeded still  farther  in  the  same  direction ; but  it  is  supposed 
that  he  soon  afterwards  perished,  as  no  accounts  of  his  subse- 
quent progress  ever  reached  Europe.  An  expedition  was  sent 
out  by  the  English  Government  under  the  command  of  Cap- 
tain Tuckey  in  1816.  The  destination  intended  was  the  River 
Congo,  which,  at  that  time,  was  supposed  to  be  the  lower 
course  of  the  Joliba.  But  the  undertaking  was  the  reverse  of 
prosperous.  It  ascended  the  river  only  two  hundred  and 
eighty  miles,  and  obtained  but  little  information.  Lyon  and 
Ritchie  went  from  Tripoli  to  Murzook  in  1819.  In  1822 
Denham,  Clapperton,  and  Oudney  started  from  Tripoli  in  the 
same  direction,  crossed  the  Great  Desert,  and,  on  the  4th  of 
February,  1823,  reached  the  great  Lake  Tsad  (or  Tchad). 
They  explored  the  surrounding  countries  as  far  as  Sakatoo  on 
the  west,  and  Mandara  on  the  south.  Their  journey  was  most 
successful  and  important.  Oudney  died  in  Bornu.  Clapper- 
ton  undertook  a second  journey  from  the  coast  of  Guinea, 
crossed  the  Kawara,  and  reached  Sakatoo,  at  which  place  he 
also  died.  Richard  Lander,  his  servant,  returned  to  England 


4 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


after  having  explored  a portion  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Major  Laing  afterwards  succeeded  in  reaching  Timbuctoo  from 
Tripoli,  but  was  murdered  in  the  desert  on  his  return.  In 
1827-28  Caille  went  from  Rio  Nunez  on  the  western  coast,  and 
reached  Timbuctoo,  returning  through  the  Great  Desert  to 
Morocco.  In  1830  Richard  Lander  and  his  brother  succeeded 
in  tracing  the  termination  of  the  Joliba,  or  Niger,  following 
its  course  from  Yaouri  down  to  its  mouth.  In  1882  they 
embarked  on  a second  expedition,  with  the  design  of  ascending 
the  same  stream  as  far  as  Timbuctoo ; but  they  reached  Rabba 
only,  and  the  general  results  of  their  enterprise  were  most 
disastrous.  Another  great  Niger  expedition  was  fitted  out  by 
the  British  government  in  1841.  It  consisted  of  three  steamers, 
and  was  placed  under  the  command  of  Captain  Trotter.  But 
it  proved  a failure,  and  resulted  in  a melancholy  loss  of  life. 
Mr.  Duncan,  one  of  the  survivors,  made  some  additions  to  our 
geographical  knowledge  by  his  journey  to  Adafoodia  in  1845- 
’46.  He  was  an  enterprising  traveller,  and  met  an  untimely 
death  in  a second  attempt,  in  the  same  region,  for  the  purpose 
of  reaching  Timbuctoo. 

These  journeys  had  been  principally  restricted  to  the  north- 
ern and  western  portions  of  the  continent.  A much  larger 
number  of  travellers  had  explored  the  regions  drained  by  the 
Nile,  the  salubrity  of  which,  especially  in  Abyssinia,  is  much 
greater  than  Western  Africa — so  much,  indeed,  that  among 
the  many  explorers  of  the  former,  a very  small  proportion 
have  died  as  compared  with  the  great  loss  of  life  in  Western 
Africa.  Among  the  most  distinguished  of  the  East  African 
travellers  are  Bruce,  Brown  (who  reached  Darfoor),  Burck- 
liardt,  Caillaud,  Riippell,  Russegger,  Beke,  and  the  Egyptian 
expeditions  up  the  Nile. 

The  Dutch  founded  a settlement  in  South  Africa  as  early  as 
1G50 ; but  not  much  information  respecting  the  interior  of  that 
part  of  the  continent  was  obtained  till  the  end  of  the  following 
century,  when  a series  of  journeys  was  commenced  by  Spar- 
mann,  and  followed  up  by  Vaillant,  Barrow,  Trotter,  Somer- 
ville, Lichenstein,  Bureliell,  Campbell,  Thomson,  Alexander, 
and  Harris. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  present  century  many,  in  England, 
manifested  a deep  interest  in  the  various  parts  of  Inner  Africa; 
and,  since  that  date,  important  discoveries  have  been  made 
which  have  partly  lifted  the  veil  which  had  hitherto  enveloped 
this  part  of  the  world  in  apparently  impenetrable  mystery. 

The  Church  Missionary  Society  of  London  established  a 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


5 


mission  at  Mombas,  in  about  4°  S.  lat.,  on  the  east  coast  of 
Africa,  and  to  this  station  they  appointed  Messrs.  Krapf  and 
Redmann.  From  1S47,  these  gentlemen  long  continued  to 
explore  the  interior  from  that  direction.  At  several  hundred 
miles  from  the  coast  they  discovered  high  mountains  covered 
with  perpetual  snow.  This  fact  is  the  more  remarkable  on 
account  of  the  nearness  of  these  mountains  to  the  equator. 
The  existence  of  snow  on  the  mountains  of  Kilimanjaro  and 
Kenia  has  been  disputed  with  but  little  reason.  These  two 
remarkable  peaks,  to  judge  from  the  description  of  the  mis- 
sionaries, seem  to  be  isolated  cones,  rising  out  of  regions  com- 
paratively little  elevated,  and  surrounded  by  plains  in  the  same 
way  as  Mount  Ararat,  Mount  Herinon,  or  the  Sierra  Nevada  do 
Santa  Martha  in  the  equatorial  regions  of  South  America. 

Missionaries  were  the  pioneers  of  geographical  discovery  also 
in  South  Africa.  Kolobeng  (in  lat.  24°  40'  S.,  long.  25°  55' 
E.)  is  a far  inland  station,  and,  at  the  time  of  his  appointment 
to  it,  David  Livingstone  was  much  nearer  to  the  Kalahari 
Desert  than  was  any  one  of  his  fellow-laborers.  On  the  1st 
of  June,  1849,  Mr.  Livingstone,  the  missionary,  accompanied  by 
Messrs.  Oswell  and  Murray,  started  on  their  journey  from  Kol 
obeng,  with  the  design  of  reaching  a lake  which  had  long  been 
reported  to  exist  in  the  interior.  In  subsequent  pages  we  shall 
furnish  particulars  of  their  journey,  and  the  results  of  it,  as 
well  as  of  subsequent  explorations,  both  by  these  and  other 
travellers,  as  they  have  become  known  to  us,  but  the  details  of 
which  would  be  unsuitable  here,  in  this  introductory  summary. 
Livingstone,  Oswell,  and  Murray,  after  having  travelled  three 
hundred  miles  through  the  Kalahari  Desert,  came  upon  a line 
river,  the  Zouga,  which  issues  from  the  lake  of  which  they  were 
in  search.  They  followed  it  upwards  of  three  hundred  miles, 
when  they  reached  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  lake,  the  chief 
name  of  which  is  Ngami,  and  which  has  an  elevation  of  two 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  In  1851,  Livingstone  and  Oswell  started  again  for  the 
north,  but,  on  this  occasion,  took  a course  more  easterly.  They 
reached  the  latitude  of  17°  25'  S.,  and  discovered  the  Chobe 
and  Sesheke,  deep  and  constantly  liowing  rivers,  supposed  by 
them  at  the  time  to  be  the  feeders  of  the  Zambesi.  The  Zouga 
they  believed  to  be  absorbed  in  sands  and  salt-pans. 

Captain  Vardon  explored  the  region  of  country  to  the  north- 
east of  Kolobeng,  tracing  the  River  Limpopo  to  a considerable 
distance.  Gassiot  made  an  interesting  journey,  in  1851,  from 
Port  Natal  north-west,  through  the  mountains,  keeping  along 


6 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


their  western  slope,  and  ultimately  reaching  Limpopo.  In  the 
course  of  the  same  year,  Messrs.  Anclersson  and  Galton  explored 
a part  of  South  Africa  from  Walfisch  Bay,  on  the  west  coast, 
extending  from  that  point  as  far  as  17°  58'  S.  lat.  in  the  north, 
and  to  21°  E.  long,  in  the  east,  and  inhabited  by  the  Damara 
and  Ovampo.  There  were  not  many  interesting  particulars 
noted;  but  the  whole  region  was  accurately  determined,  and  by 
this  means  the  journey  claims  to  rank  as  one  of  great  impor- 
tance. 

In  1852,  a journey  was  made  by  Mr.  Plant  of  Natal,  from 
that  place  to  Delagoa  Bay,  in  which  he  discovered  that  St. 
Lucia  Bay  leads  into  an  extensive  inlet  previously  unknown. 

To  the  north  of  the  equator,  the  mission  to  Lake  Tsad  origi- 
nated with  Mr.  James  Richardson.  He  left  England  in  1849, 
for  the  purpose  of  concluding  commercial  treaties  with  the 
chiefs  of  Northern  Africa,  as  far  as  Lake  Tsad,  by  means  of 
which  the  legitimate  trade  with  those  countries  might  be  ex- 
tended, and  slavery  abolished.  Upon  the  proposal  of  Mr. 
Petermann,  Dr.  Barth  and  Mr.  Overweg  accompanied  Mr. 
Richardson,  for  the  purpose  of  making  scientific  observations. 
The  particulars  in  respect  to  this  expedition  we  shall  note  in 
future  pages.  It  will  be  sufficient  here  to  observe  that  these 
three  gentlemen  started  from  Tripoli  on  the  23d  of  March, 
1850,  after  having  minutely  surveyed  the  mountainous  region 
to  the  south  of  that  place.  During  the  first  year,  they  success- 
fully crossed  the  whole  of  the  Sahara,  in  a very  circuitous  and 
westerly  direction,  and  thus  explored  a great  portion  of  North- 
ern Africa,  which  had  never  before  been  visited  by  any  Euro- 
pean. Their  route  from  Ghat  to  Kano,  in  particular,  led  them 
through  the  powerful  kingdom  of  Air,  or  Asben,  and  was 
highly  interesting.  In  the  second  3Tear,  the  travellers  explored 
a large  portion  of  Soudan,  in  different  directions,  for  which 
purpose  they  separated  on  their  arrival  at  the  northern  frontiers 
of  that  country,  pursuing  different  routes,  it  being  their  purpose 
to  meet  at  Kuka,  the  capital  of  Bornu.  Barth  and  Overweg 
reached  that  place  in  safety,  but  Richardson  died  on  the  way, 
within  six  days’  journey  of  it,  in  March,  1851.  The  other  trav- 
ellers, nothing  daunted,  continued  their  explorations,  Barth 
penetrating  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  south,  as  far 
as  Yola,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Adamaua ; and  Overweg 
navigating  Lake  Tsad  in  a boat,  which,  with  great  labor,  had 
boen  conveyed  in  pieces,  on  the  backs  of  camels,  from  Tripoli, 
across  the  burning  sands  of  the  Sahara.  In  September,  1851, 
the  travellers  set  out  together  on  a journey  to  Borgu,  a rnoun- 


NEAR  DELAGOA  BAY  ON  THE  EASTERN  COAST. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


7 


tainous  country  lying  to  the  north-east  of  Lake  Tsad,  about 
midway  between  it  and  Egypt.  They  travelled  under  the  pro- 
tection of  a large  army  of  the  Sheikh  of  Bornu,  which,  however, 
was  attacked  at  no  great  distance  beyond  Lake  Tsad,  and  put  to 
flight  so  suddenly,  that  Barth  and  Overweg  saved  their  lives 
and  instruments  only  by  a quick  retreat.  Having  returned  to 
Kuka,  they  set  out  southwards  with  a large  escort  as  before, 
and,  on  this  occasion,  they  explored  the  country  a considerable 
distance  beyond  Mandara,  the  farthest  point  of  Denham’s 
journey,  and  found  the  districts  through  which  they  passed  re- 
markable for  their  fertility.  With  the  beginning  of  the  third 
year  of  their  explorations,  Barth  made  a journey  to  Maseiia,  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Baghirmi,  to  the  south-east  of  Lake 
Tsad,  while  Overweg,  travelling  in  a south-westerly  direction, 
reached  within  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  Tacoba,  the 
great  town  of  the  Fellatahs.  And  this  was  his  last  journey. 
On  his  return  he  was  seized  with  fever  at  Kuka,  and,  after  a 
short  and  severe  illness,  died,  the  second  victim  in  that  expedi- 
tion, in  September,  1852.  Barth  was  just  about  to  start  for 
Timbuctoo,  and  a reinforcement,  consisting  of  Dr.  Vogel  and 
two  soldiers,  a sapper  and  a miner,  were  despatched  to  his  as- 
sistance. The  details  of  his  travels,  and  those  of  others  who 
have  succeeded  him,  in  African  exploration,  we  shall,  to  avoid 
repetition,  give  in  subsequent  chapters. 

The  name  of  this  great  Continent  has  been  the  subject  of 
discussion  among  philologists  and  antiquarians.  The  Greeks 
called  it  Libya  Aifivr/,  and  the  Romans  Africa.  Varro  be- 
lieved he  had  found  the  etymology  in  Libs , the  Greek  name  of 
the  south- wind,  and  Servius  proposed  to  derive  the  Homan 
name  from  the  Latin  word  ajprica  (sunny),  or  the  Greek  word 
ajohrike  (without  cold).  The  probability  is  that  the  name  Li- 
bya was  derived  by  the  Greeks  from  the  name  of  the  people 
whom  they  found  in  possession  of  the  country  to  the  westward 
of  Egypt,  and  who  are  believed  to  have  been  those  that  are 
called  in  the  Hebrew  Scriptures  Lehdbim  or  Lubim.  Suidas 
informs  us  that  Africa  was  the  proper  name  of  that  great  city 
which  the  Romans  called  Carthago , and  the  Greeks  Karche- 
don.  There  is  no  room,  at  all  events,  for  doubt  that  this  was 
the  name  applied  originally  to  the  country  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  of  Carthage,  which  was  the  part  of  the  conti- 
nent first  known  to  the  Iiomans,  and  that  it  was  subsequently 
extended,  as  their  knowledge  increased,  so  as  to  include  the 
whole  continent.  As  to  the  meaning  of  the  name,  the  language 
of  Carthage  supplies  a simple  and  natural  explanation — the 


8 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


word  Afrygah  meaning  in  that  tongue  a separate  establish- 
ment, or,  in  other  words,  a colony,  as  Carthage  was  of  Tyre  ; 
so  that  the  ancient  Phoenicians,  at  home,  may  have  spoken  of 
their  Afrygah,  just  as  the  English  in  our  day  speak  of  their 
colonies.  The  native  Arabs  of  the  present  day  still  give  the 
name  of  Afrygah  or  Afrikiyali  to  the  territory  of  Tunis.  The 
name  does  not  seem  to  have  been  used  by  the  Romans  till  after 
the  first  Punic  war,  at  which  time  they  became  acquainted 
with  what  they  afterwards  called  Africa  Propria . 

Africa  lies  between  the  latitudes  of  38u  N.  and  35°  8.,  and 
is  of  all  the  continents  the  most  tropical.  Strictly  speaking,  it 
is,  naturally,  an  enormous  peninsula,  which,  before  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Suez  canal,  was  attached  to  Asia  by  the  Isthmus 
of  Suez  ; now  it  may  be  described  as  a great  insular  continent. 
The  most  northern  point  is  the  Cape,  situated  a little  to  the 
west  of  Capo  Blanco,  and  opposite  Sicily,  which  is  in  lat.  87° 
20'  40"  N.,  long.  9°  41'  E.  Its  most  southerly  point  is  Cabo 
d’Agulhas,  in  34°  49'  15"  S. ; the  distance  between  these  two 
points  being  four  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty  geographi- 
cal, or  about  five  thousand  statute  miles.  The  most  westerly 
point  is  Cabo  Verde,  in  long.  51°  21'  E.,  lat.  10°  25'  N.,  the 
distance  between  the  two  points  being  about  the  same  as  its 
length.  The  Atlantic  washes  the  western  coasts,  the  Mediter- 
ranean the  northern,  and  the  Indian  Ocean  the  eastern.  It  is 
difficult  to  estimate  the  superficial  extent  of  such  a country  as 
Africa ; but  it  has  been  taken  at  eight  million  five  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  geographical  square  miles,  exclusive  of  the  is- 
lands. It  is  larger  than  Europe  or  Australia,  but  smaller  than 
the  Asian  and  American  continents.  The  coast-line  is  very 
regular  and  unbroken,  and  there  are  not  man}7  bays  or  penin- 
sulas. The  principal  inlet  is  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  with  its  sec- 
ondary divisions,  the  Bight  of  Benin  and  the  Bight  of  Biafra. 
On  the  northern  coast  are  the  Gulf  of  Sidra  and  the  Gulf  of 
Kabes,  and  on  the  eastern  the  Gulf  of  Arabia. 

In  regard  to  physical  conformation,  Africa  consists  of  the 
great  plain,  the  table-lands,  and  the  mountain  langes  and  groups 
of  the  central  and  southern  division.  The  plain  includes  the 
Sahara,  the  region  of  Lake  Tsad,  and  the  valley  of  the  Lower 
Nile.  The  Sahara  is  not  a plain  in  its  whole  extent,  but  for 
the  greater  part  it  rises  into  table-lands,  with  mountain  groups, 
in  some  instances  of  more  than  six  thousand  feet  elevation. 

The  designation,  plain,  seems  merely  to  be  a general  term  of 
distinction  by  which  this  part  of  the  country  is  separated  from 
the  more  elevated  region  to  the  south.  The  Sahara  is  not  a 


12 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


whose  evidence  we  can  only  partly  understand,  the  antiquity 
of  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs  is  not  to  he  disputed  ; neither  is 
its  knowledge  of  many  arts,  nor  yet  its  dependence  upon  this 
remarkable  stream.  Put,  even  now,  although  we  seem  to 
come  near  to  the  solution  of  the  mystery,  and  although  several 
have  laid  claim  to  a veritable  discovery,  the  origin  ot  the  river 
is  unrevealed  to  this  day.  The  three  principal  tributaries  from 
the  east  have  each  in  succession  claimed  the  distinction  of 
being  the  main  stream.  The  Atbara,  called  by  the  Abyssinians 
Takkazie,  the  last  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Kile  before  its  con- 
tinence with  the  sea,  was  considered  in  early  Christian  ages  as 
the  head  of  the  Kile.  It  rises  in  the  Abyssinian  provinces  of 
Lasta  and  Samen,  amidst  mountains  attaining  the  height  of  fif- 
teen thousand  feet.  From  the  same  mountains  issues  the 
Aba'i,  formerly  designated  the  Astapus,  which  becomes  the 
Bahr-el-Azrek,  or  “ Blue  River,”  at  Khartoom.  The  Abyssini- 
ans still  look  upon  the  Aba'i  as  the  Gilion  of  Genesis,  as  did 
also  the  Portuguese  Jesuits  of  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth 
centuries.  Pedro  Paez  visited  its  source  in  the  peninsula  of 
God  jam,  a hundred  and  fifty  years  before  the  time  of  Bruce, 
and  described  what  he  saw.  xibove  the  junction  of  the  Asta- 
pus with  the  Bahr-el-Abyad,  or  “ White  River,”  the  ancients 
seem  to  have  known  nothing  of  the  course  of  the  Kile  before 
the  time  of  Ptolemy,  except  that  it  came  from  the  west.  Of 
more  recent  explorations  in  the  region  of  the  Kile  there  will 
be  occasion  to  give  particulars  elsewhere.  But  here  it  may  be 
remarked  that  three  expeditions  were  sent  up  the  course  of  the 
river  between  1835  and  1841  by  Mohammed  Ali.  F rom  these 
many  particulars  were  learned.  Beyond  Sobat,  the  stream 
was  found  to  be  upwards  of  one  thousand  feet  broad,  the 
sources  being  supposably  three  or  four  hundred  miles  beyond. 
Later  efforts  towards  , discovery  have  more  than  confirmed  the 
supposition.  The  length  of  the  Kile  is  certainly,  from  its 
mouth  to  its  source,  not  less  than  three  thousand  four  hundred 
miles,  and  the  stream  drains  an  area  of  at  least  two  million 
English  square  miles. 

The  River  Senegal  is  upwards  of  eleven  hundred  miles  in 
length,  and  has  its  sources  in  the  same  elevated  tract  of  land 
as  those  of  the  Kawara.  The  Gambia  and  Rio  Grande,  south 
of  the  River  Senegal,  are  also  considerable  streams.  The 
Kawara,  commonly  but  erroneously  called  Kiger,  is  next  to  the 
Kile  the  largest  of  African  Rivers,  unless  we  also  except  the 
Congo,  which  is  not  fully  explored.  Even  now  the  sources  of 
it  are  not  certainly  defined.  It  appears  to  be  the  same  as  the 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


11 


spicuous  to  the  south  of  Yola,  8°  30'  N.  lat.,  13°  45'  E.  long., 
is  also  isolated,  and  estimated  by  Dr.  Barth  at  ten  thousand. 
The  loftiest  of  the  Cameroons  is  thirteen  thousand  seven  hun- 
dred and  sixty  feet  high,  and,  in  Southern  Africa,  the  Spits 
Kop,  or  Compass  Berg,  is  ten  thousand  two  hundred  and 
fifty. 

The  Atlas  Mountains  occupy  the  north-western  region  of 
Africa,  consisting  of  several  ranges,  their  loftiest  summits  ris- 
ing to  an  altitude  of  about  fifteen  thousand  feet. 

The  most  frequently  occurring  and  most  widely  distributed 
rock  formations  in  Africa  are  those  of  sandstone  and  limestone ; 
natron,  which  is  rare  in  other  countries,  is  comparatively  abun- 
dant. There  is  salt  in  some  parts,  but  elsewhere  it  is  entirely 
wanting.  Metals  are  nowhere  abundant ; gold,  however,  is 
found  m small  amounts  in  various  localities,  and  iron  in  the 
district  of  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  and  elsewhere.  Precious  stones 
are  found  in  most  of  the  tropical  countries ; but  here  they  are 
of  rare  occurrence.  At  present  the  discovery  of  diamonds  in 
the  region  of  the  Cape  has  excited  considerable  public  interest, 
and  individuals,  now  and  again,  have  profited  by  their  labor  ; 
but  time  is  necessary  in  order  to  arrive  at  a sound  judgment 
respecting  the  whole  enterprise. 

Africa  is  a land  of  deserts.  The  rivers  are  comparatively 
few,  although  recent  explorations  have  shown  the  amount  of 
water  in  the  continent  to  be  much  greater  than  had  previously 
been  supposed.  In  man}7  instances  the  smaller  rivers  and  lakes 
present  only  dry  water-courses  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
and  even  some  of  the  larger  streams  approach  nearly  to  the 
same  condition.  Lake  Tsad  itself  is  sometimes  nearly  dry. 
Floods  are  prevalent,  even  in  the  desert,  in  the  rainy  season. 
The  importance  of  such  floods  is  very  great.  There  may  be 
inconvenience,  and  in  the  time  of  evaporation  there  may  be 
disease,  but  on  their  subsidence  vegetation  is  abundant  and 
beautiful.  The  essential  service  of  the  Nile  inundations  to 
Egypt  need  not  be  more  than  referred  to. 

The  waters  of  Africa  generally  flow  into  the  Atlantic  and 
its  branch,  the  Mediterranean,  there  being  no  extensive  connec- 
tion between  any  river  system  and  the  Indian  Ocean. 

Historically,  the  Nile  is  the  oldest  of  the  rivers  of  Africa. 
Without  it  the  most  ancient  civilization  could  not  have  existed. 
Egypt  is  dependent  upon  it,  and  Egypt  comes  before  us  with 
an  advanced  civilization,  hieroglyphed  on  her  monuments,  as 
having  existed  in  such  a condition  thirty-five  centuries  before 
the  Christian  era.  Without  admitting  or  rejecting  claims 


10 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


thousand  feet.  Mount  Dogem,  the  culminating  point  of  these 
ranges,  is  between  four  thousand  and  five  thousand  feet  high. 
The  eastern  portion  of  the  Sahara  is  a considerably  elevated 
table-land,  comprising  the  mountainous  country  of  Borgu.  The 
highest  summit  in  the  whole  region  is  said  to  be  Ercherdat- 
Erner.  The  narrow  valley  of  the  Kile  is  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  Great  Desert. 

To  the  south  of  this  region,  Africa  is  a great  mass  of  ele- 
vated land,  rising  more  or  less  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Some  geographers  have  maintained  that  they  can  trace  a sys- 
tem of  terraces  on  all  sides.  It  is  certainly  so  on  the  southern 
side,  but  the  same  feature  is  not  discernible  throughout.  In- 
deed, generally  speaking,  the  plateau  on  the  other  sides  either 
gradually  slopes  down  into  a plain  along  the  sea-shore,  or  rises 
abruptly  out  of  the  sea,  and  presents  a deep  edge  of  from  seven 
thousand  to  eight  thousand  feet  elevation.  The  edge  of  the 
table-land  is,  however,  usually  from  one  hundred  to  three  hun- 
dred miles  distant  from  the  sea.  Beginning  at  Cape  Colony, 
there  is  an  almost  uninterrupted  table-land,  extending  to  the 
north  for  at  least  one  thousand  geographical  miles.  The  basin 
of  the  Orange  River  forms  the  southern  portion,  and  this  is 
succeeded  by  the  Kalahari  Desert,  which  is  again  continued  by 
the  basin  of  the  Sesheke  and  Lake  Ngaini,  there  being  many 
rivers,  while  the  whole  region  is  level,  and  Ngami  two  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  above  the  sea.  There 
is  no  doubt  a connection  between  this  territory  and  the  basin 
of  the  Zambesi.  To  the  north,  the  ground  rises  and  forms  the 
water-shed  between  the  basins  of  the  Congo  River  and  Lake 
Kyassa.  In  this  region  were  supposed  to  lie  “ the  Mountains 
of  the  Moon,”  so  frequently  mentioned  in  the  ancient  geogra- 
phy of  Africa.  The  site  of  them  was  continually  shifted  from 
one  latitude  to  another,  while  all  agreed  that  they  ran  from 
east  to  west ; but  Dr.  Beke,  from  personal  observation,  deter- 
mined that  they  had  a direction  from  south  to  north,  and  were 
parallel  with  the  eastern  coast,  and  that  they  form  the  southern 
continuation  of  the  Abyssinian  table-land.  The  most  elevated 
peaks  rise  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  range,  between  it  and  the 
coast,  and  as  isolated  cones.  The  Kenia  and  Kilimanjaro, 
part  of  this  system,  and  two  of  its  peaks,  are,  as  we  have  said, 
snowy  mountains,  and,  that  being  their  character,  they  must 
have  an  elevation  of  at  least  twenty  thousand  feet.  Abba 
Yared,  in  the  northern  edge  of  the  Abyssinian  table-land,  is 
fifteen  thousand  feet ; Menaif,  south  of  Lake  Tsad,  is  isolated, 
and  is  probably  ten  thousand  feet  high ; and  Alantika,  con- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


9 


monotonous  expanse  of  sand ; on  the  contrary,  there  is  great  va- 
riety in  its  conformation  and  character.  This  great  desert  is 
fringed  on  the  north  with  far-extending  table-lands,  which  in 
some  places  rise  abruptly  from  the  Mediterranean  to  the  height 
of  one  thousand  live  hundred  feet,  and  then  gradually  descend 
to  the  Delta  of  the  Nile.  There  is  then  an  elevated  region  to 
the  south,  which  extends  from  the  Great  Syrtis,  or  Gulf  of  Sidra, 
as  far  as  Middle  Egypt,  and  comprises  the  oases  of  Augila  and 
Siwah.  The  level  of  this  region  is  so  low  that  the  oasis  of 
Siwah  is  as  much  as  one  hundred  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
sea.  This  region  is  again  followed  by  a table-laud  of  large  ex- 
tent, probably  traversing  the  Lybian  desert,  and  reaching  as  far 
as  the  first  cataract  on  the  Nile.  The  north-western  part,  as 
far  as  Sokna,  consists  of  the  Hamadah,  which  is  a stony,  dreary, 
and  extensive  table-land,  of  from  one  thousand  live  hundred  to 
two  thousand  feet  high,  which  intercepts  the  progress  of  com- 
merce and  civilization  from  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  to 
Central  Africa.  This  table-land  is  known  to  us  principally  from 
the  reports  of  Richardson,  Barth,  Overweg,  and  Dickson.  Not 
far  from  Sokna,  the  plateau  is  broken  up,  and  forms  the  Jebel- 
es-Soudy,  or  Black  Mountains ; and,  again,  on  the  route  from 
Murzook  to  Egypt,  it  is  split  up  into  picturesque  cliffs,  which 
bear  the  name  of  El-IIarouj.  On  the  side  towards  Tripoli,  it  is 
bordered  by  the  Gliarian  Mountains.  This  range  is  not,  as  some 
have  supposed,  connected  with  the  Atlas  Mountains.  It  is  sep- 
arated from  them  by  a depressed  belt,  which  sinks  even  below 
the  level  of  the  sea.  This  low-lying  region  is  the  western 
boundary  of  the  Sahara,  and  it  extends  from  the  Gulf  of  lvabes 
along  the  southern  slope  of  the  Atlas  system  to  the  Wady  Draa, 
bordering  on  the  States  of  Morocco,  Algeria,  and  Tunis.  Tuat, 
an  extensive  oasis,  occupies  the  central  portion  of  this  territory. 
From  Wady  Draa  the  great  plain  extends  along  the  western  shore 
as  far  as  the  River  Senegal,  and  probably  continues  as  far  as  Tim- 
buctoo,  and  Lake  Tsad.  Beyond  the  Ilamadali,  southwards,  the 
kingdom  of  Fezzan  and  the  oasis  of  Gliadamis  are  flat  and  low; 
and  between  Fezzan  and  Lake  Tsad,  there  is  a tract  of  country 
which  may  also  be  considered  rather  as  a desert  than  a table- 
land. The  western  half  of  the  Sahara  is  thus  surrounded  by  a 
broad  belt  of  plains  and  depressions,  the  central  parts  being 
formed  by  great  table-lands  and  mountains,  and  comprising  the 
kingdom  of  Air,  or  Ashen,  explored  by  Richardson,  Barth,  and 
Overweg.  The  route  which  was  followed  by  Dr.  Barth  in  his 
journey  to  Agadez,  the  capital  of  that  kingdom,  was  girt  by 
mountain  ranges  and  groups,  rising  to  three  thousand  and  four 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


13 


Amner,  which  is  said  to  rise  in  a lofty  group  of  mountains  to 
the  east  of  Liberia.  As  far  as  Timbuctoo  it  is  called  the  Joliba, 
and  its  course  is  there  well  known ; but  from  that  point  to 
Yaouri  considerable  obscurity  hang3  over  it.  Thence  down  to 
its  mouth  it  was  first  traced  by  Lander.  It  is  generally  there 
called  Kawara,  although  it  has  several  names  in  the  different 
languages  of  the  tribes  which  live  upon  its  banks.  We  know 
but  little  respecting  the  tributaries  of  the  Kawara.  The 
Tchadda  is  the  most  important  of  them,  and  it  rivals  the 
Kawara  itself  in  magnitude  at  the  confluence.  It  reaches  far 
into  the  heart  of  Inner  Africa.  It  was  explored  by  Dr.  Barth 
in  its  upper  course,  where  it  flows  through  the  kingdom  of 
Adamaua.  Even  there  it  is  half  a mile  broad,  and  ten  feet 
deep,  and  is  called  Benue.  The  length  of  the  Kawara  is  about 
three  thousand  miles,  and  it  drains  an  area  of  one  million  five 
hundred  thousand  square  miles. 

To  the  south  of  the  equator,  the  west  coast  receives  many 
large  rivers,  some  of  which  are  even  as  yet  but  little  known. 
Of  these  maybe  enumerated  the  Zaire, or  Congo;  the  Coanza; 
the  Nourse,  or  Cunene  ; and  the  Swakop,  explored  by  Mr.  Gal- 
ton.  The  Orange  River  is  about  one  thousand  miles  in  length. 
Its  head  streams  are  the  Ki  Gariep,  or  Yaal  River,  and  the  Nu 
Gariep,  which  unites  in  its  own  stream  the  Caledon  and  Cra- 
dock  rivers.  The  Orange  River  drains  an  area  of  about  three 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  English  square  miles.  Beyond 
the  southern  extremity  of  Africa,  and  advancing  along  the 
eastern  coast,  there  is  the  Limpopo,  which  is  a very  considera- 
ble stream.  The  Zambesi  is  the  largest  river  of  the  eastern 
coast.  Livingstone  and  his  companions  have  thrown  much 
light  upon  its  sources  and  its  character,  and  their  information 
will  come  before  us  farther  on. 

The  Lake  country  is  also  described  in  the  details  of  travel 
furnished  by  individual  explorers,  and  therefore  need  not  here 
be  specially  characterized. 

Africa  lies  almost  entirely  in  the  torrid  zone,  and  is,  there- 
fore, the  hottest  country  which  is  known  to  us.  The  highest 
temperature  is  to  the  north  of  the  equator.  In  Nubia  and 
Upper  Egypt  eggs  may  be  roasted  in  the  sand.  Along  the 
Mediterranean,  the  influence  of  the  sea  makes  it  more  temper- 
ate. The  country  is  more  elevated  to  the  south  of  the  Great 
Desert,  and  is  cooler,  some  parts  near  the  equator  reaching  the 
altitude  of  perpetual  snow.  But  there  is  no  regular  snow-fall 
even  in  the  most  southern  or  northern  regions.  In  Northern 
Africa  the  radiation  is  very  great ; the  soil  of  the  Sahara  rap- 


14 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


idly  absorbs  the  sun’s  rays,  but  during  the  night  it  loses  its 
heat  so  quickly  that  ice  is  known  to  have  been  formed.  The 
influence  of  the  regular  winds  is  not  much  felt  in  this  conti- 
nent, unless  it  be  the  monsoons  of  the  Indian  Ocean.  The 
monsoons  extend  to  about  a third  portion  of  the  eastern  shores 
only,  but  they  considerably  affect  the  whole  of  the  African 
countries.  Hurricanes  sometimes  occur  at  the  south-eastern 
extremity,  and  but  rarely  in  other  parts.  The  north  is  exposed 
to  hot  winds  and  storms  from  the  Sahara,  these  being  called 
the  Khamsin  in  Egypt ; the  Sirocco,  in  the  Mediterranean ; 
and  the  Ilarmattau,  in  the  western  regions.  These  winds  are 
characterized  by  extreme  heat  and  dryness  ; they  lift  the  sand 
and  All  the  air  with  dust,  greatly  increasing  evaporation,  and 
frequently  proving  fatal  to  the  vegetable  and  animal  life  of  the 
regions  over  which  they  pass. 

On  the  whole,  the  supply  of  rain  is  very  scanty.  The 
Sahara  and  Kalahari  deserts  are  almost  rainless.  The  clear- 
ness of  the  atmosphere  exceeds  everything  of  the  kind  which 
is  known  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  European  astronomers, 
visiting  these  latitudes,  look  with  astonishment  on  the  noctur- 
nal splendor  of  the  heavens — some  of  the  planets  shining 
with  great  brilliance,  and  occasioning  deep  and  well-defined 
shadows.  In  the  regions  which  lie  between  the  Kawara  and 
the  Senegal,  copious  rains  come  with  the  south-east  trade- 
winds,  so  that  at  Sierra  Leone  as  much  as  three  hundred  and 
thirteen  inches  have  been  known  to  fall  in  the  course  of  a year. 
But  the  largest  supply  of  rain  seems  to  be  brought  to  Africa 
by  the  summer  monsoon  on  the  east  coast.  This  monsoon 
lasts  from  April  to  October,  extending  over  the  Indian  Ocean 
in  a half-circle  from  south-east  to  north-east  by  west.  These 
winds  bring  such  falls  of  rain  as  drench  the  extensive  plains 
and  rising  grounds  of  the  east  horn  of  Africa.  They  are 
broken,  and  their  influence  diminished  by  the  great  Abyssinian 
table-lands.  No  rain  falls  in  these  regions  when  the  monsoon 
comes  from  the  Asiatic  continent.  The  south-east  monsoon 
extends  northwards  as  far  as  Lake  Tsad  and  Kordofan,  and 
even  to  the  latitude  of  22°.  Its  influence  begins  to  be  felt  in 
May,  or  a month  later  than  on  the  coast.  This  is  a clear  proof 
that  there  is  no  connected  equatorial  range  of  high  mountains 
existing  in  Central  Africa,  such  as  was  supposed  by  early 

feographers  when  they  spoke  of  the  “ Mountains  of  the  Moon.” 
’o  the  east,  where  high  mountains  are  known  to  exist,  the 
same  rain-bearing  wind  is  so  much  interrupted  by  them  that  it 
reaches  the  northern  portions  of  Abyssinia  a month  later  than 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


15 


Lalefe  Tsad  and  Kordofan.  The  upper  basin  of  the  Nile  being 
in  all  likelihood  not  far  from  the  coast,  that  stream  receives  its 
supplies  of  water  with  the  beginning  of  the  monsoon,  and  con- 
tinues to  rise  till  September. 

The  vegetation  of  Africa  presents  many  peculiarities.  A 
traveller  passing  from  the  south  of  Europe  sees  from  Europe 
to  Tangier  but  little  that  is  different  from  what  he  has  left  be- 
hind him.  He  might  suppose  himself  still  in  Spain  or  France. 
There  are  groves  of  oranges  and  olives,  wide  plains  covered 
with  wheat  and  barley,  thick  woods  of  evergreen  oaks,  cork- 
trees, and  sea-pines.  These,  intermixed  with  cypresses,  myr- 
tles, arbutus,  and  fragrant  tree-heaths,  form  the  chief  features 
of  the  landscape.  The  plains  are  covered  with  the  gum  cistus, 
and  the  hills  and  rocks  with  rock-roses,  palmetto-trees,  and  the 
wild  caper.  In  the  early  months  of  the  year,  the  climate  being 
like  that  of  our  spring,  the  meadows  are  green  with  grass,  and 
bright  with  innumerable  flowers,  and  the  gardens  are  embel- 
lished with  the  blossoms  of  the  almond,  the  apricot,  and  the 
peach.  Even  in  the  summer  there  are  still  a few  flowers  along 
the  banks  of  the  rivers,  but  in  the  intense  heat  of  most  parts  all 
floral  beauty  is  burnt  up. 

In  the  Barbary  States,  the  principal  cultivation  in  grain  con- 
sists of  a kind  of  wheat,  barley,  maize,  Caff  re-corn  (Holcus  sorg- 
hum), and  rice.  Tobacco,  olives,  and  figs  thrive  luxuriantly,  as 
also  do  pomegranates,  grapes,  jujubes,  and  melons.  There  are 
also  grown  the  white  mulberry  for  silk-worms,  indigo,  cotton, 
sugar-cane,  and  most  of  the  culinary  vegetables  of  Europe.  In 
the  mountainous  country,  south  of  the  Barbary  States,  in  the 
chain  of  the  Atlas,  is  grown  that  peculiar  timber  ( Thuja  articu- 
lata),  called  the  sandrach-tree,  which  is  almost  imperishable, 
and  from  which  the  ceilings  of  mosques  are  exclusively  con- 
structed. It  is  supposed  to  be  the  shittim-wood  of  Scripture. 

Passing  the  chain  of  the  Atlas,  the  scene  soon  becomes  dif- 
ferent. There  are  now  few  trees,  on  account  of  the  dryness  of 
the  climate.  But  here,  where  rain  seldom  falls,  and  where  the 
heat  of  the  winds  is  scarcely  supportable  even  by  the  natives 
themselves,  the  palm,  providentially,  forms  a grateful  shade 
which  is  impervious  to  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  beneath  which 
flourish  the  orange,  the  lemon,  the  pomegranate,  and  the  vine — 
all  of  which,  although  reared  in  constant  shade,  acquire  a pe- 
culiar richness  of  flavor. 

The  vegetation  of  Egypt  is  intermediate  and  partakes  of  the 
character  of  both  of  these  last-named  features.  In  the  parts 
watered  by  the  Nile  there  is  a rich  produce  of  grain  crops,  of 


16 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


various  kinds;  but  in  the  more  southern  and  drier  districts, 
nothing  hut  stunted  and  miserable-looking  bushes  are  left  to 
contend  with  the  accumulating  sand  for  the  possession  of  the 
soil.  In  the  richer  parts  of  the  country  there  are  acacias  which 
yield  gum  arabic,  large  tamarisk-trees,  the  senna  plant,  with 
cotton,  coffee,  indigo,  and  tobacco. 

The  deserts  in  the  interior  of  the  continent  are  generally  un- 
occupied by  any  plants,  except  such  as  arc  of  the  most  stunted 
character.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  is  a grass  called  Ka- 
sheia  {Pennisetum  dichoto7)ium),  which  wholly  covers  immense 
districts,  and  which  is  a great  annoyance  to  travellers  on  account 
of  its  prickly  involucrum  ; another  is  the  agoul  ( Alhagl  mau- 
rosum)  which  furnishes  a likeable  food  for  the  camel.  In  the 
equatorial  parts  of  Africa  all  European  trees  disappear,  and 
even  the  date  is  seldom  to  be  seen.  The  flora  partakes  largely 
of  the  character  of  the  plants  of  India,  but  there  are  peculiari- 
ties which  belong  to  the  African  localities.  There  are  great 
masses  of  the  baobab,  the  fruit  of  which  affords  a grateful 
drink  to  the  natives,  and  immense  cotton-trees,  which  project 
at  the  base  into  great  buttresses;  there  are  shrubs  in  consider- 
able variety,  rich  verdure,  groups  of  oil  palms,  sago  palms,  and 
others  of  the  same  tribe,  reaching  down  to  the  water’s  edge. 
In  the  thickets  many  varieties  of  climbers  twine  among  the 
branches  of  the  trees,  which  they  adorn  with  flowers  of  white, 
scarlet,  and  orange.  Pine-apples  abound  in  the  woods  in  some 
places,  and  have  established  themselves  as  completely  as  in  their 
native  soil  in  the  tropical  parts  of  America. 

In  the  tropical  regions  of  Africa,  there  are  no  waving  fields 
of  corn  ; the  vine  is  unknown  ; figs  are  worthless,  except  in  a 
few  localities ; only  the  orange  and  the  lime  remain.  Sorg- 
hum, manioc,  the  cavassa,  the  yam,  the  guinea-pea,  and  the 
ground-nut  supply  their  place.  Here  and  there  are  to  be  found 
various  kinds  of  apples  and  plums ; but  the  heat  is  so  intense 
that  all  tree  fruit  is  diminished  in  size  and  nearly  destitute  of 
succulence  and  flavor. 

Approaching  the  southern  point  of  the  continent,  a wilder- 
ness of  bare  sand  occupies  the  centre  of  the  countiy.  In  the 
karoos  of  the  Cape  Colony  are  to  be  found  fleshy,  leafless 
tribes  of  stapelias,  mesembryanthemums,  euphorbias,  crassulas, 
and  aloes,  with  other  plants,  which  hold  the  soil  by  a single 
wiry  root,  and  feed  principally  upon  the  dews  of  heaven. 
Among  these  grow  many  varieties  of  heath.  The  hills  and 
rocks  are  covered  with  a remarkable  tribe  of  plants  called  Cy- 
cadaceae,  intermediate,  so  to  speak,  between  ferns  and  palms : 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


17 


and  after  the  rains,  the  whole  country  teems  with  the  blossoms 
of  the  ixia,  the  gladiolus,  the  disa,  the  satyrium,  and  the  oxalis. 
At  Cape  Town  our  American  aloe  has  been  introduced,  which, 
with  its  spiny  leaves  of  six  feet  in  length,  forms  impenetrable 
hedges,  more  resembling  chevanx-de-frise  than  any  living  va- 
riety. The  oaks  and  the  pines  of  Europe  have  also  found  here 
a congenial  climate.  The  islands  partake  more  or  less  of  the 
vegetation  of  the  continent,  modified  chiefly  on  the  west  side 
by  the  cooling  breeze  of  the  Atlantic,  and  on  the  east  by  the 
wide  expanse  of  the  Indian  and  Southern  Oceans.  In  these 
parts  there  is  usually  an  entire  absence  of  African  sterility,  in 
consequence  of  their  insular  position.  From  their  luxuriant 
vegetation  we  may  judge  what  that  of  Africa  would  be  if 
either  nature  or  human  skill  could  succeed  in  conducting  riv- 
ers and  streams  into  the  regions  of  barrenness  and  drought. 

In  Africa,  there  is  great  abundance  of  large  quadrupeds  of 
many  kinds,  both  of  those  which  belong  also  to  other  continents, 
and  of  those  which  are  peculiar  to  itself — such  as  the  giraffe, 
the  hippopotamus,  the  zebra,  the  quacha,  the  gnu,  and  some 
other  species  of  the  antelope  tribe,  of  which  there  are  about 
twenty  varieties,  and  the  two-horned  rhinoceros,  of  which  there 
are  at  least  two  varieties.  Of  the  smaller  quadrupeds  there  are 
also  many  species  unknown  elsewhere.  The  giraffe  is  found  in 
all  the  dry  regions  of  Africa,  between  the  sources  of  the  Sene- 
gal and  Dongola.  It  has  seldom  been  seen  in  the  richer  soil 
of  Soudan.  In  its  native  country  it  browses  on  trees,  but  when 
domesticated  it  is  not  fastidious,  but  will  eat  any  kind  of  vege- 
table food.  It  is  an  inoffensive  animal. 

The  hippopotamus  is  a most  peculiar  and  unwieldy  animal 
confined  to  Africa.  It  abounds  in  all  the  large  rivers.  It  is 
amphibious,  but  derives  its  chief  sustenance  from  the  land, 
while  it  lives  mostly  in  the  water.  It  feeds  on  shrubs,  and 
reeds,  and  the  grassy  produce  of  the  banks  and  shallows  of  riv- 
ers. In  the  land-track  of  the  hippopotamus,  which  is  like  the 
ruts  of  two  wagon-wheels,  the  Africans  make  a deep  pit,  care- 
fully covered  over,  and  if  he  fall  into  the  trap,  he  is  so  awk- 
ward that  he  cannot  get  out.  The  average  weight  of  this 
enormous  animal  is  about  three  or  four  thousand  pounds. 

The  zebra  is  a member  of  the  asinine  tribe,  and  is  striped  in 
every  part,  from  the  tip  of  the  nose  to  the  end  of  the  tail.  Its 
head  is  large,  its  ears  long,  and  it  is  destitute  of  beauty  in  gen- 
eral. It  is  difficult  to  tame,  and  very  vicious.  The  quacha  is 
much  like  the  zebra,  but  is  less  striped,  more  robust,  better- 
shaped, and  not  difficult  to  domesticate. 

2 


18 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


The  gnu  is  of  the  antelope  genus.  It  partakes  in  its  form  of 
the  horse,  the  stag,  and  the  antelope : the  shoulders,  body, 
thighs,  and  mane  being  equine ; the  head  bovine ; the  tail 
partly  of  the  one  and  partly  of  the  other,  exactly  resembling 
that  of  the  quadra  ; the  legs  and  feet  slender  and  elegant  like 
those  of  the  stag;  and  finally,  it  has  the  subocular  sinus , which 
is  supposed  to  be  the  distinguishing  characteristic  of  the  ante- 
lope tribe.  It  is  so  fierce  and  full  of  gambols,  that  the  Dutch 
boors  of  the  Cape  have  named  it  wildebeest.  It  is  strong,  swift, 
keen-scented,  and  quick-sighted.  Its  motions  are  free,  varied, 
and  elegant.  Herds  of  them  are  to  be  met  with  in  the  plains 
bordering  on  the  Orange  River. 

The  two-horned  rhinoceros  of  Africa  is  different  from  that 
of  India.  The  skin  is  smooth  compared  with  the  folds  so  re- 
markable in  the  Indian  species,  which  is  covered  as  with  a 
coat  of  mail.  The  eyes  are  low  in  the  head,  almost  at  the  root 
of  the  nose,  and  close  under  the  upper  horn,  and  so  small,  that 
one  is  apt  to  suppose  them  of  little  use  to  so  enormous  an  ani- 
mal ; but  as  they  are  placed  in  a socket  which  is  considerably 
projected,  they  have  a wide  range,  and  are  capable  of  an  im- 
mense sweep  round  the  horizon.  The  variety  found  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Orange  River  is  called  the  white  rhinoceros,  and 
is  larger  than  the  other.  Another  variety  was  found  at  a con- 
siderable distance  by  Campbell,  with  the  larger  horn  almost 
straight,  and  longer,  while  the  other  horn  was  smaller  in  pro- 
portion. This  immense  animal  is  found  in  all  the  woods  of 
Africa,  from  Soudan  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Of  the  eland,  Africa  contains  more  species  than  arc  to  be 
found  in  all  the  rest  of  the  world.  Elands  are  of  many  sizes. 
The  finest  and  best  developed  are  most  beautiful  creatures. 
The  male  has  been  known  to  measure  ten  feet  and  a half  in 
length,  by  six  feet  and  a half  in  height.  They  are  mild  of 
temper,  and  easily  hunted  down. 

The  springbok  is  one  of  the  most  gracefully  elegant  and 
most  numerous  of  all  the  species  of.  antelopes  to  be  found  in 
South  Africa.  Sometimes  springboks  assemble  in  herds  of 
thousands,  especially  at  the  times  of  their  migrating  to  the 
north,  and  also  at  the  season  of  their  return.  It  leaps  in  run- 
ning to  a distance  of  from  fifteen  to  five-and-twenty  feet — hence 
its  name.  Many  other  varieties  of  antelopes  are  to  be  found 
in  different  parts  of  Africa.  Antelopes  follow  their  leader  like 
sheep.  They  are  therefore  easily  driven  towards  some  small 
opening,  and  as  the  whole  herd  presses  onwards,  following  the 
leader,  great  havoc  is  made  among  them  by  hunters. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


19 


The  elephant  is  found  in  all  the  forests.  Gigantic  as  it  is,  it 
is  a harmless  animal.  It  is  usually  taken  in  pits  with  stakes  at 
the  bottom,  or  by  burning  the  grass  of  the  steppes. 

The  buffalo  is  probably  the  most  fierce  and  powerful  of  the 
whole  bovine  tribe.  Its  height  is  about  that  of  a common- 
sized ox,  but  it  is  nearly  twice  the  latter’s  bulk.  Its  horns  at 
the  base  are  about  twelve  or  thirteen  inches  across,  separated 
by  a very  narrow  space,  which  fills  up  with  age,  and  gives  the 
animal  a solid  forehead  of  horn,  as  hard  as  iron  or  rock.  A 
conflict  between  the  buffalo  and  the  lion  is  terrific,  and  it  is 
only  when  the  lion  can  by  stratagem  surprise  him  that  the  buf- 
falo is  conquered. 

The  African  lion  is  the  noblest  animal  of  his  race.  None  of 
the  Asiatic  lions  can  compare  with  him  in  size,  strength,  or 
beauty.  The  habits  of  the  lion  are  those  of  the  feline  tribe. 
He  never  attacks  openly  unless  he  is  hungry.  He  is  roused 
from  sleep  only  by  hunger.  He  then  watches  in  ambush,  till 
an  opportunity  occurs  for  pouncing  on  his  prey.  If  nothing 
present  itself,  he  then  walks  out,  and  finding  a flock  of  ante- 
lopes, or  sheep,  selects  his  victim.  In  the  case  of  sheep 
under  the  care  of  a man,  he  invariably  prefers  the  man  to  the 
sheep. 

The  tiger  is  to  be  found  in  several  varieties,  less  powerful, 
however,  than  that  of  Bengal.  Leopards  are  numerous  and 
very  fierce.  There  are  wolves,  jackals,  wild-cats,  and  other 
smaller  animals  which  live  predatory  lives,  and  are  ferocious 
and  troublesome.  Baboons  and  monkeys  of  many  sizes  abound 
in  the  woods  of  the  tropical  regions. 

There  are  many  lizards  in  all  the  sandy  deserts,  and  there 
are  two  or  three  species  of  chameleon.  The  crocodile  or  alliga- 
tor is  found  in  all  the  larger  rivers.  In  such  a climate  it  is  to 
be  expected  that  various  insects  and  reptiles  should  abound : 
scorpions,  scolopendras,  enormous  spiders,  snakes,  and  other 
venomous  creatures.  Termites,  or  white  ants,  are  very  numer- 
ous. They  destroy  everything  in  the  shape  of  wood,  and  march 
together  in  such  swarms,  that  the  devastation  they  leave  behind 
them  is  appalling.  Locusts  are  still  more  destructive.  An 
army  of  locusts  passing  over  a country,  leaves  it  as  bare  as  if 
it  had  been  swept  with  a broom. 

In  Africa  there  is  a vast  variety  of  birds,  from  the  large  os- 
trich down  to  the  little  certhia , or  creeper.  There  are  many 
specimens  of  the  vulture,  the  secretary  bird,  eagles,  kites,  crows, 
guinea-fowls,  bustards,  grouse,  partridges,  quails,  and  swallows. 
The  crane,  the  flamingo,  the  pelican,  and  many  varieties  of 


20 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


water-fowl  frequent  the  rivers  and  lakes.  Parrots  and  parro- 
quets  abound  in  many  parts. 

Pisli  in  great  variety  are  to  be  found  in  most  of  the  rivers  as 
well  as  on  the  coast.  On  the  coast,  sharks,  as  well  as  both 
black  and  spermaceti  whales,  are  numerous. 

Of  the  three  hundred  mammals  of  different  species  which  are 
known  to  be  inhabitants  of  Africa,  more  than  two  hundred  are 
peculiar  to  that  continent  and  to  Madagascar.  Of  these  a great 
majority  are  to  be  found  only  to  the  south  of  the  Great  Desert. 

From  the  Mediterranean  to  about  lat.  20°  N.,  the  inhabitants 
of  Africa  are  of  various  races.  The  Berbers  of  the  region  of 
the  Atlas,  the  Tuaricks  and  Tibbus  of  the  Sahara,  and  the 
Copts  of  Egypt,  are  all  descendants  of  the  original  population, 
the  Moors  being  of  mixed  descent.  The  Ethiopia,  or  negro, 
race  are  found  between  lat.  20°  1ST.  and  the  Cape  Colony,  there 
being,  however,  many  varieties  of  physiognomy  among  those 
who  bear  the  general  name.  In  the  Cape  Colony  itself,  and  in 
the  parts  surrounding  it,  the  home  of  the  Hottentots  is  found. 

The  Copts  are  descended  from  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Their 
number  is  not  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  and 
about  ten  thousand  of  them  reside  about  Cairo.  They  are 
darker  than  Arabs,  their  cheek-bones  being  high,  their  beards 
thin,  and  their  hair  woolly.  Their  religion  is  a corrupt  form  of 
Christianity.  They  are  extremely  bigoted.  Their  morality  is 
of  a low  standard.  They  are  sullen,  and  false,  and  avaricious, 
and  drink  to  excess.  The  Coptic  may  now  be  considered  a 
dead  language,  the  Arabic  having  come  to  occupy  its  place. 

Above  Egypt  there  are  two  tribes,  resembling  each  other  in 
general  physical  development,  yet  speaking  different  tongues. 
Probably  one  is  aboriginal  or  native ; the  other  foreign. 
Prichard  terms  them  Eastern  Nubians — or  Nubians  of  the  Red 
Sea,  and  Nubians  of  the  Nile — or  Berberines.  These  tribes 
are  of  a red-brown  complexion,  and  their  hair  is  thick  and 
frizzly.  The  Eastern  Nubians  are  tribes  of  wandering  people 
who  inhabit  the  country  lying  between  the  Nile  and  the  Red 
Sea.  The  Baraba,  or  Berberines,  inhabit  the  valley  of  that 
name  from  the  southern  limit  of  Egypt  to  Senaar.  They  live 
on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  and  being  honest  and  industrious, 
wherever  there  is  available  soil  they  utilize  it,  planting  trees, 
sowing  grain  such  as  durra,  and  setting  up  wheels  for  irriga- 
tion. 

The  Tibbus  are  spread  over  the  eastern  parts  of  the  Sahara, 
as  far  as  Fezzan  and  Lake  Tsad.  They  occupy  the  ground  on 
which  the  ancient  Lybians  formerly  lived.  Some  of  them  are 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL.  21 

black,  others  copper-colored.  They  are  well  made,  but  slim. 
Their  hair  is  not  woolly,  though  curled.  They  are  chiefly  a 
pastoral  people,  with  mauy  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats — 
camels,  however,  being  their  most  valuable  possessions.  They 
build  their  villages  in  squares.  Their  dwellings  are  of  mats, 
and  are  clean  and  neat.  Formerly  they  carried  on  a consider- 
able traffic  in  slaves  between  Soudan,  Fezzan,  and  Tripoli. 
Happily,  this  description  of  trade  has  of  late  years  been  much 
interrupted. 

All  that  is  not  Arabic  in  the  kingdom  of  Morocco,  ail  that 
is  not  Arabic  in  the  French  provinces  of  Algeria,  and  all  that 
is  not  Arabic  in  Tunis,  Tripoli,  and  Fezzan,  is  Berber.  The 
language,  also,  of  the  whole  country  between  Tripoli  and 

Sis  Berber;  the  extinct  language  of  the  Canary  Isles 
erber ; and  the  language  of  the  Sahara  is  Berber.  The 
Berber  languages  are,  in  their  present  use,  inland  tongues — the 
Arabic,  as  a rule,  is  the  language  for  the  coast,  from  the  l)elta 
of  the  Mle  to  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  and  from  the  Straits  of 
Gibraltar  to  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal.  The  Berbers  are  a 
nation  of  great  antiquity ; and  from  the  earliest  times  of  which 
we  have  any  historical  record,  they  have  occupied  the  same 
territory  as  now.  In  the  northern  parts  of  the  Atlas  they  are 
called  Berbers ; in  the  southern  tracts,  Shuluhs ; in  the  hilly 
country,  Kabyles ; in  Mount  Auress,  the  Showiah  ; and  in  the 
desert,  the  Tuarick.  All  belong  to  the  same  natural  stock.  In 
the  Atlas  Mountains  there  are  said  to  be  more  than  twenty 
different  tribes,  very  poor,  and  perpetually  at  war  with  each 
other.  The  means  of  living,  on  the  part  of  many,  is  the  plun- 
dering of  those  who  have  anything  to  seize,  and  bands  are 
formed  and  excursions  made  for  that  purpose.  They  arc 
athletic,  strong-featured,  and  hardy.  They  wear  a sort  of 
woollen  garment,  without  sleeves,  fastened  round  the  waist  by  a 
belt. 

In  the  mountains  of  the  northern  Atlas,  the  Shuluhs  live  in 
houses  of  stone  and  mud,  covered  with  slate,  and  chiefly  in 
villages;  but  they  are  occasionally  to  be  found  in  caves  or 
tents.  They  are  huntsmen,  yet  they  cultivate  the  ground,  and 
trade  in  honey.  They  are  well  formed  and  hardy,  their  com- 
plexion being  comparatively  light.  The  Kabyles  of  Algeria 
and  Tunis  are  noted  for  their  industry,  not  only  in  tilling  the 
ground,  but  also  in  working  in  mines  in  the  mountains,  ob- 
taining lead,  iron,  and  copper.  They  live  in  huts  spread  in 
groups  over  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  They  are  of  middlo 
stature,  and  dark-brown  color,  sometimes  nearly  black. 


22 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL, 


The  Tuarieks  spread  themselves,  in  various  tribes,  over  the 
greater  portion  of  the  Sahara.  The  expedition  under  .Richard- 
son, Barth,  and  Ovenveg  has  greatly  increased  our  knowledge 
of  these  people ; having  traversed  a wide  extent  of  the  terri- 
tories which  the  Tuarieks  occupy.  The  following  are  the 
names  and  localities  of  the  principal  tribes : — 1.  Tanelkum, 
located  in  Fezzan.  2.  Azghers,  including,  i.  Ouraghen,  family 
of  Shafon ; ii.  Emanghastan,  family  of  llatcetah  ; iii.  Amana, 
family  of  Jabour — ail  located  at  Ghat.  3.  Aheethanaran,  the 
tribe  of  Janet.  4.  Ilagar  (Athagar),  pure  Ilagars  and 
Maghatale.  They  occupy  the  tract  beeween  Ghat,  Tuat,  and 
Timbuetoo.  5.  Sagamaram,  located  on  the  route  from  Aisou  to 
Tuat.  6.  Kailouees,  including  the  Kailouees  proper,  the  Kal- 
tadak,  and  the  Kalfadai.  7.  Kilgris,  including  the  Kilgris 
proper,  the  Iteesan,  and  the  Ashraf.  These  and  the  tribes  im- 
mediately before  mentioned  inhabit  the  kingdom  of  Aliir. 
8.  Oulimad  tribes,  surrounding  Timbuetoo  in  great  numbers. 
This,  probably  identical  with  the  Sorghou,  is  the  largest  and 
most  powerful  tribe,  while  the  Tanelkums  are  the  smallest  and 
weakest.  The  various  tribes  are  very  different  in  character, 
but  they  are  all  fine  men,  tall,  straight,  and  handsome.  All 
the  caravans  crossing  their  territory  must  pay  tribute  to  them. 
This  is  one  of  their  means  of  living.  They  are  abstemious  and 
subsist  chiefly  on  coarse  brown  bread,  dates,  olives,  and  water. 
Even  in  the  heated  desert,  where  the  thermometer  is  generally 
from  90°  to  120°,  they  are  clothed  from  head  to  foot,  and 
cover  the  face  up  to  the  eyes  with  a black  or  colored  handker- 
chief. 

Large  portions  of  the  empire  of  Morocco  are  inhabited  by 
the  Moors,  who  are  spread  along  the  whole  Mediterranean 
coast.  They  are  a mixed  race,  grafted  upon  the  ancient  Maur- 
itanian stock.  They  have  in  course  of  time  incorporated  with 
themselves,  through  intermarriages,  much  of  the  blood  of  the 
Arabs  and  of  the  Spaniards.  Their  language  is  Arabic.  In 
bodily  conformation  they  considerably  resemble  Europeans. 
They  are  intellectual,  but  cruel.  They  have  had  many  revolu- 
tions among  them,  and  these  have  been  always  most  sanguinary. 
They  have  been  much  given  to  piracy.  In  religion,  they  are 
Mahometan.  Generally  they  are  temperate  in  diet  and  plain 
in  dress  ; the  rich,  however,  indulge  in  many  luxuries,  and  are 
fond  of  display.  There  are  wandering  tribes  which  belong  to 
them ; but  very  many,  the  mass,  settle  themselves  as  mer- 
chants, mechanics,  and  farmers. 

The  Arabs  constitute  no  small  portion  of  the  population  of 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


23 


Northern  and  Central  Africa.  Two  invasions  of  Africa  have 
been  made  by  the  Arabs,  and  both  have  left  many  marked 
traces  behind  them,  inasmuch  as  they  took  possession  of  the 
territory  which  they  conquered,  and  gradually  mixed  up  with 
themselves  such  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  as  remained. 
Egypt  is  now  an  entirely  Arabic  country.  Several  tribes,  un- 
mixed and  purely  Arabic,  are  to  be  found  in  Nubia  and  Egypt, 
and  the  provinces  of  Kordofan,  Darfoor,  Waday,  and  Bornu. 
Others  occupy  the  deserts  of  Libya  and  the  Sahara,  and  the 
States  of  Tripoli,  Tunis,  and  Algiers,  many  of  them  leading 
a wandering  life  like  the  Kabyles.  In  many  places  they  for- 
mally rule  over  the  districts  of  which  they  have  made  them- 
selves masters.  On  the  coast  of  Zanzibar  there  is  an  Arabic 
royal  dynasty.  Some  of  the  smaller  islands  ad  jacent  to  Mad- 
agascar are  inhabited  by  Arabs,  and  traces  of  them  are  to  be 
found  in  Madagascar  itself.  The  African  Arabs  are  not  all 
alike  in  features  or  color,  inasmuch  as  some  have  intermixed 
with  natives,  while  others  have  remained  distinct. 

Jews  are  to  be  found  in  the  larger  towns  of  the  north  as 
merchants,  brokers,  and  traders  of  various  descriptions,  and  the 
commerce  with  Europe  is  largely  carried  on  by  them. 

Many  Turks  have  settled  in  the  north  of  Africa,  and  their 
numbers  are  on  the  increase. 

The  Abyssinians  are  of  Ethiopic  origin.  Abyssinia  was,  in 
former  times,  a powerful  kingdom ; but  the  Galla  have  con- 
quered the  southern  part  of  it,  and  there  being  incessant  wars 
among  the  people  themselves,  the  empire  as  such  has  become  a 
mere  shadow,  and,  since  the  recent  expedition  of  the  English 
army,  is  even  scarcely  so  much.  The  territory  of  Abyssinia 
extends  from  the  upper  course  of  the  Blue  River  north  to 
the  Red  Sea.  There  are  several  princes  who  were  ostensibly 
vassals  to  the  empire,  who  even  formerly  exercised  unlimited 
power,  and  now  more  markedly  than  ever  these  rulers  have 
undisputed  sway  in  their  several  territories.  The  Christian 
religion,  much  corrupted,  is  professed  by  most  of  the  people. 
It  was  introduced  at  an  early  period,  but  has  been  greatly 
changed.  European  missionaries  have  exposed  themselves  to 
many  dangers,  and  labored  with  commendable  zeal,  for  the 
sake  of  these  people ; but  have  been  repeatedly  driven  from 
their  posts.  The  inhabitants  live  in  huts,  a collection  of  which 
is  called  a town.  Professing  Christians  are  not  allowed  to 
keep  slaves,  though  they  are  permitted  to  trade  in  them. 

The  Ethiopic  race  comprehends  by  far  the  greater  number 
of  the  African  nations,  extending  over  the  whole  of  Middle 


24 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


and  South  Africa.  All  are  not  negroes,  however ; the  Negro, 
the  Galla,  the  Somali,  and  the  Kaffre  are  all  different  branches 
of  the  same  stock.  The  principal  Negro  nations  are  established 
around  the  head  waters  of  the  Kawara,  where  they  have  many 
tribes  and  kingdoms,  larger  or  smaller,  under  separate  and  inde- 
pendent chiefs.  They  are  black,  and  their  hair  woolly.  The 
Wblofs,  or  Yolofs,  are  the  handsomest,  yet  the  blackest,  of 
all  Negroes.  They  live  between  the  Senegal  and  the  Gambia, 
on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  Foulalis  or  Fellattahs  are  to  be 
found  in  the  central  parts  of  Soudan,  by  the  course  of  the 
Kawara,  west  to  the  Senegal,  and  east  till  beyond  Lake  Tsad. 
They  are  generally  black,  though  some  of  them  are  as  light  as 
gypsies.  They  are  industrious,  cleanly,  and,  in  their  religion, 
usually  Mahometan.  There  are  several  other  sections  of  the 
Negro  race,  but  they  are  less  distinct  and  less  numerous:  the 
Congo,  the  Abunda,  and  the  Bengnela.  These  are  to  be  found 
chieliy  in  South  Guinea.  The  whole  Negro  race  is  divided  and 
separated  into  manifold  tribes,  dialects,  and  social  castes. 

The  Gallas,  another  branch  of  the  Etliiopic  race,  occupy  an 
immense  territory  in  Eastern  Africa,  from  Abyssinia  as  far  as 
the  inland  portions  of  the  Portuguese  possessions  in  Mozam- 
bique. to  the  south  of  the  equator.  They  are  large  and 
strong;  their  color  is  black,  some  of  their  women  being  of 
lighter  color. 

The  Somali  are  widely  scattered  on  the  uplands,  and  also 
nearer  to  the  coast  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  from  Cape  Jerdaffun 
southward  for  a considerable  distance.  They  are  generally 
mild  and  peaceful  among  themselves.  Their  occupations  are 
pastoral. 

The  Kaffres  occupy  a great  portion  of  South  Africa.  They 
are  generally  black,  but  some  individuals  are  remarkably  fair  ; 
all  are  woolly-haired.  They  are  a strong,  muscular  people,  ac- 
tive in  their  home  industries,  such  as  hunting  and  agriculture, 
but  given  also  to  warfare  and  plunder.  The  Eastern  Kaffres, 
such  as  the  Amakosah  and  Amazulah,  are  best  known  to  us  by 
means  of  their  frequent  predatory  incursions  into  the  Cape 
Colony.  The  Bechuaua  tribes  are  Kaffres;  but  these  are  less 
warlike,  and  more  devoted  to  their  own  domestic  husbandries 
and  other  affairs.  All  Kaffres  keep  herds  of  cattle,  and  to 
some  extent  cultivate  fields  and  gardens;  but  the  tribes  last 
named,  in  many  instances,  live  in  towns,  and  are  in  every  way 
superior  to  most  of  the  other  sections  of  the  race.  There  are 
many  tribes  of  them,  and  they  do  not  always  keep  the  peace 
towards  each  other. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


25 


The  Hottentots  differ  widely  from  all  the  other  African 
races.  In  bodily  conformation  they  are  thought  to  resemble 
the  Chinese  or  Malays.  The  women  have  this  remarkable  pe- 
culiarity, that  they  are  possessed  of  natural  “bustles,”  which 
sometimes  grow  to  an  enormous  size.  What  were  the  circum- 
stances which  originally  led  to  the  hemming  in  of  these  poor 
people  into  the  narrow  space  which  they  occupy,  history  does 
not  tell,  and  conjecture  seems  to  be  vain.  They  are  not  with- 
out intellect,  and  are  of  cheerful  temperament.  They  have 
been  much  oppressed  at  various  times  since  their  connection 
with  Europeans,  and  especially  by  the  Portuguese  and  the 
Dutch.  The  Euglish  have  afforded  them  protection.  Mora- 
vian missionaries,  and  not  without  success,  have  sought  to  raise 
them  out  of  their  degradation.  Their  home  now,  wherever 
they  originally  came  from,  is  principally  in  the  region  about 
Table  Bay.  But  in  the  very  centre  of  South  Africa  there  is 
a nation  of  dwarfish  appearance,  called  Bushmen,  possessing 
many  cattle,  and  apparently  belonging  to  the  Hottentot 
race. 

The  island  of  Madagascar,  distinctly  belonging  to  Africa,  is 
inhabited  by  a race  originally  Malay,  but  now  possessing  a 
mixture  of  Negro  and  Arab  biood.  They  are  a strong  and  ac- 
tive people.  They  were  heathen ; but  nothing  has  occurred  in 
the  history  of  Christian  missions  more  noteworthy  than,  first, 
the  appalling  cruelty  and  extent  of  the  persecutions  of  the 
Christians  which  have  been  endured  among  them,  and  after- 
wards, the  striking  success  which  has  followed.  There  are  now 
very  many  thousands  of  Christians  instructed  by  a large  staff 
of  missionaries  from  Europe,  as  well  as  by  a numerous  native 
ministry. 

Only  an  approximate  guess  can  be  made  respecting  the  num- 
ber of  the  population  of  such  a territory  as  Africa,  there  being, 
even  now,  so  much  of  it  unexplored.  But,  according  to  the 
most  recent  calculations,  it  has  been  reasonably  supposed  that 
it  cannot  be  less  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  millions. 

The  people  generally  live  in  villages  or  towns,  and  have 
strong  attachments  to  their  homes.  Even  the  wandering  tribes 
have  their  favorite  dingles  and  valleys  to  which  they  most  fre- 
quently resort. 

There  is  but  little  skill  in  their  agriculture.  In  well-watered 
districts  the  soil  is  abundantly  fertile,  and,  personal  wants  being 
few,  the  bounty  of  nature  is  largely  drawn  upon. 

The  different  tribes  are  frequently  at  war  with  each  other. 
Sometimes  this  is  for  revenge  of  past  injuries  or  conquests,  the 


26 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


former  being  real  or  supposed ; sometimes  for  territory ; but 
more  frequently  in  order  to  the  capture  of  slaves.  This  vile 
traffic  is  the  greatest  of  all  the  evils  which  have  affiictcd 
Africa. 

As  to  religion,  generally  speaking,  and  alluding  to  the  whole 
population,  there  is  none.  A mongrel  Christianity  is  professed, 
as  we  have  already  said,  in  Abyssinia;  Mahometanism  obtains 
in  the  northern  countries ; but  the  African  races,  as  a rule,  are 
abandoned  to  the  weakest  of  mere  superstitions.  Their  minds 
are  not  so  difficult  of  access,  however,  as  are  those  of  nations 
which  have  elaborate  systems  of  mythology  and  idolatry ; and 
in  most  parts  which  have  been  occupied  by  missionaries,  the 
success  of  their  labors  has  been  very  considerable. 

As  to  the  political  and  territorial  divisions  of  Africa,  if  such 
a classification  may  be  employed  : 

The  country  included  under  the  general  name  of  Barbary 
extends  from  the  borders  of  Egypt  on  the  east,  to  the  Atlantic 
on  the  west;  being  bounded  by  the  Mediterranean  on  the 
north,  and  the  Sahara  on  the  south.  It  comprises  the  States  of 
Morocco,  Algiers,  Tunis,  and  Tripoli.  Morocco  has  an  area  of 
about  one  hundred  and  seventy  thousand  geographical  square 
miles,  and  eight  million  five  hundred  thousand  inhabitants. 
Algeria  closely  answers  to  the  ancient  Numidia.  The  area  is 
estimated  at  one  hundred  thousand  square  miles,  and  the  pop- 
ulation at  three  millions.  Tunis  is  the  smallest  of  these  states. 
It  contains  forty  thousand  square  miles,  and  the  population  is 
between  two  and  three  millions.  The  people  are  chiefly  Moors 
and  Arabs.  The  principal  town  is  Tunis.  Tripoli  is  a Turk- 
ish province,  extending  from  Tunis  to  Egypt,  along  the  shores 
of  the  Mediterranean.  Its  extent  is  two  hundred  thousand 
square  miles,  and  the  population  one  million  five  hundred 
thousand. 

Egypt  occupies  the  north-eastern  corner  of  Africa.  It  com- 
prises about  one  hundred  thousand  square  miles,  and  has  two 
million  inhabitants  of  various  races,  the  most  numerous  being 
Egyptians  of  Arab  descent.  It  is  nominally  a Turkish  pashalic ; 
but  while  the  Sultan  now  and  then  asserts  his  superiority,  the 
Viceroy,  or  Khedive,  is  virtually  an  independent  ruler.  Nubia 
extends  along  the  Bed  Sea,  comprising  the  middle  course  of 
the  Nile,  with  a population  of  one  million.  Khartoom,  or 
Khartoum,  is  the  capital. 

Kordofan  lies  on  the  western  side  of  Nubia,  and  is  in  extent 
about  thirty  thousand  square  miles.  The  population  consists 
chiefly  of  negroes.  The  country  in  general  is  flat,  but  there  are 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


27 


lofty  hills,  some  attaining  to  three  thousand  feet.  The  general 
elevation  of  the  country  is  two  thousand  feet.  Nubia  and  Kor- 
dofan  are  under  the  rule  of  the  Khedive. 

The  boundaries  of  Abyssinia  are  not  easily  defined.  It  may 
be  said  to  extend  from  about  9°  to  16°  north  lat.,  and  from  35° 
to  41°  east  long.,  having  an  area  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  square  miles,  with,  probably,  four  millions  of  inhab- 
itants. 

The  Sahara  extends  from  the  Atlantic  on  the  west,  to  the 
Nilotic  countries  on  the  east ; and  from  the  Barbary  States  on 
the  north,  to  the  basins  of  the  rivers  Senegal  and  Kawara,  and 
Lake  Tsad  on  the  south.  The  area  is  about  two  million  square 
miles,  or  upwards  of  one  half  of  all  Europe.  The  population 
is  thin.  The  general  aspect  of  the  Sahara  has  already  been  in- 
dicated. It  is  excessively  hot  by  day,  and  sometimes  very  cold 
at  night.  Rain  is  infrequent.  For  nine  months  of  the  year  the 
wind  is  from  the  east.  When  a storm  arises,  immense  quanti- 
ties of  loose  sand  are  carried  before  it,  and  a thick  deposit  is 
left  to  cover  the  soil.  Of  course  vegetable  and  animal  life  ex- 
ist but  sparingly  in  oases  where  valleys  or  springs  occur.  The 
habitable  parts  of  the  Sahara  are  occupied  by  three  different 
nations  : the  Moors  and  Arabs  in  the  extreme  western  portion ; 
the  Tuaricks  in  the  middle  part ; and  in  the  east  a race  resem- 
bling Negroes.  The  trade  of  the  Sahara  is  in  gold,  slaves,  ivory, 
iron,  and  salt. 

Western  Africa  comprises  the  West  Coast  from  the  borders 
of  the  Sahara,  in  about  lat.  17°  north,  to  the  Nourse  River  in 
about  the  same  latitude  south.  Senegambia  is  the  country  of 
the  Senegal  and  Gambia.  The  vegetation  is  most  luxuriant 
and  vigorous.  The  baobab  (monkey  bread-tree),  the  most  enor- 
mous tree  in  the  world,  is  characteristic  of  Senegambia.  It  is 
not  so  high  as  some  other  trees  ; but  in  circumference  it  is  fre- 
quently found  to  be  sixty  or  seventy-five  feet,  and  in  some  in- 
stances has  been  known  to  measure  one  hundred  and  twelve 
feet.  The  native  population  consists  of  Negroes  of  various  na- 
tions. There  are  European  settlements  of  the  French  on  the 
Senegal ; of  the  British  on  the  Gambia ; and  of  the  Portu- 
guese, in  the  manner  of  small  factories,  at  various  points.  The 
commerce  is  chiefly  in  gum,  beeswax,  ivory,  bark,  and  hides. 

The  West  Coast  of  Africa,  from  Senegambia  to  the  Nourse 
River,  is  commonly  called  the  Guinea  Coast.  The  coast  is  low, 
in  many  places  being  a dead  level  for  thirty  or  fifty  miles  in- 
land. There  are  numerous  rivers,  some  of  which  can  be  traced 
as  far  as  Inner  Africa.  The  Cameroon  Mountains  are  an  ex- 


28 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL . 


ception  to  the  general  flatness  of  the  country.  The  climate  is 
very  dangerous  to  European  life.  Vegetation  is  exceedingly 
luxuriant  and  varied.  There  is  a species  of  palm-tree  from  the 
seed  or  nut  of  which  is  extracted  the  palm  oil  so  well  known, 
several  thousand  tons  of  which  are  annually  sent  to  England. 

The  British  colony  of  Sierra  Leone  extends  from  Kokelle 
River  in  the  north,  to  Kater  River  in  the  south,  and  reaches 
about  twenty  miles  inland.  The  Malaghetta  or  Grain  Coast  ex- 
tends from  Sierra  Leone  to  Cape  Palmas.  It  is  sometimes 
styled  the  Windy  or  Windward  Coast.  The  Republic  of  Libe- 
ria occupies  a considerable  extent  of  this  country,  and  among 
the  population  are  many  liberated  slaves,  freed  in  former  times 
in  the  United  States.  The  Ivory  Coast  extends  from  Cape  Palmas 

lantity 
there. 
River 

w other 

products.  The  Slave  Coast  extends  from  the  River  Volta 
to  the  Calabar  River,  and  was  formerly  the  scene  of  an 
immense  slave  traffic.  The  kingdoms  of  Ashanti,  Dahomey, 
and  others,  occupy  the  interior  country  of  the  Guinea  Coast. 
The  coast  from  Old  Calabar  River  to  the  Portuguese  posses- 
sions is  inhabited  by  various  tribes.  Duke’s  Town,  on  the  for- 
mer river,  is  a large  town  of  thirty  thousand  to  forty  thousand 
inhabitants.  Loango  extends  from  the  equator  to  the  Zaire,  or 
Congo,  River.  Congo  extends  south  of  the  Zaire,  and  is  very 
fertile,  with  veins  of  copper  and  iron.  Angola  includes  the  two 
districts  of  Angola  proper  and  Benguela.  Here  the  Portuguese 
settlements  reach  farther  inland  than  in  the  preceding  districts, 
namely,  two  hundred  miles.  The  population  of  these  settle- 
ments is  about  four  hundred  thousand,  including  about  two 
thousand  Europeans.  The  Capital,  St.  Paolo  de  Loando,  has 
one  thousand  six  hundred  European  and  four  thousand  native 
inhabitants.  There  is  a fine  harbor. 

The  coast  from  Benguela  to  the  Cape  Colony  is  little  visited 
or  known.  It  is  barren  and  desolate,  with  but  few  harbors. 
Mr.  Galton,  in  company  with  the  Swedish  naturalist  Andersson, 
penetrated  from  Walfisch  Bay,  nearly  four  hundred  miles  into 
the  interior  in  the  direction  of  Lake  Ngami,  and  explored  the 
country  inhabited  by  the  Oraherero,  or  Damaras,  and  other 
tribes. 

South  Africa  comprises  Cape  Colony  and  the  adjacent  coun- 
tries, and  of  these  it  is  necessary  to  speak  somewhat  more  in  de- 
tail here,  inasmuch  as  though  comparatively  little  known,  they 


to  v;ape  inree  ±'onus,  ana  ODtamea  its  name  irom  tneqi 
of  ivory  supplied  by  the  numerous  elephants  to  be  found 
The  Gold  Coast  stretches  from  Cape  Three  Points  to  the 
Volta,  and  has  been  long  frequented  for  gold-dust  and 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


29 


are  off  the  line  of  the  exploring  expeditions,  outlined  in  succeed- 
ing pages.  Cape  Colony  extends  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
to  the  Orange  River  in  the  south,  and  to  the  Tugela  River  in 
the  east.  Much  of  this  space  is  unoccupied.  The  parts  which 
are  inhabited  are  in  possession  of  the  aborigines,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  missionary  stations.  Except  at  the  immediate  coast, 
the  country  consists  of  highlands,  with  elevated  plains  or  table- 
lands between  the  mountains. 

Its  area  is  larger  than  any  European  country,  but  its  inhabi- 
tants do  not  exceed  six  hundred  thousand  in  number.  The 
Cape  Colony  was  originally  a Dutch  settlement,  but  became  a 
British  dependency  in  1806.  It  was  long  a favorite  refuge  for 
the  Huguenot  emigrants ; and  although  the  French  language 
ceased  to  be  spoken,  the  names  of  many  of  the  older  families 
bear  witness  to  their  descent.  Intermarriage  with  the  Dutch 
settlers,  and  the  gradual  adoption  of  their  language,  led  to  a 
complete  fusion,  and  the  Dutch  element  in  the  Cape  population 
has  been  dominant  for  generations.  The  people  are  farmers  as 
a rule. 

Five  years  ago,  what  was  known  as  British  Kaffraria  was 
formally  annexed  to  the  Cape  Colony.  This  small  dependency 
had  previously  had  a government  of  its  own.  Here  has  been 
the  seat  of  successive  Kaffre  wars.  Within  this  territory  rise  the 
celebrated  Anatola  Mountains — a natural  stronghold,  where 
many  British  lives  have  been  lost,  but  which  is  now  traversed 
by  roads  and  harmonized  by  peaceful  and  prosperous  settle- 
ments. 

To  the  north  of  the  Orange  River,  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
Cape  Colony,  there  is  a country,  or  rather  a series  of  countries, 
which,  with  the  exception  of  Natal,  is  but  little  known  in  Eu- 
rope. The  whole  of  these  territories  may  be  said  to  come 
properly  under  the  designation  of  South-eastern  Africa,  and  to 
travels  in  these  lands  special  attention  is  given  in  subsequent 
pages  ; meanwhile  a small  amount  of  attention  may  be  directed 
to  certain  of  those  parts  which  have  not  been  the  fields  of  re- 
cent exploration.  Following  the  coast-line,  between  the  Cape 
Colony  and  Natal,  there  is  a long  and  narrow  strip  of  country 
lying  between  the  Indian  Sea  and  the  Kahlamba  range  of 
mountains.  This  tract  of  country  is  occupied  entirely  by  na- 
tive tribes,  and  there  arc  few  missionaries  or  traders  among 
them.  At  the  extremity  nearest  the  Cape  Colony  the  iribe  of 
the  Amagelaka  resides,  ruled  over  by  the  great  chiei  Kreli. 
Beyond  are  the  Amaponda,  the  people  of  the  late  chief  Fakn, 
who,  through  all  successive  Raff  re  wars  and  for  a period  of 


30 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


fifty  years,  remained  the  staunch  and  friendly  ally  of  the  Brit- 
ish Government.  This  old  chieftain  could  bring  twenty-five 
thousand  fighting  men  into  the  field,  and  he  was  continually  at 
war  with  one  or  another  of  the  many  tribes  in  his  neighbor- 
hood. He  died  a few  years  ago  at  the  age  of  eighty.  ITis  son 
shows  the  same  friendly  feeling  towards  the  English. 

Adam  Kok,  the  ruler  of  Griqualand,  and  his  people  are  not 
pure  Kaffres ; they  have  attained  to  a considerable  degree  of 
civilization,  and  many  of  them  have  come,  with  their  chief,  un- 
der Christian  influences.  They  formerly  occupied  a district  on 
the  northern  frontier  of  the  Cape  Colony ; and  it  being  deemed 
expedient  to  incorporate  it  with  the  colony,  they  were  offered 
their  present  abode,  and  accepted  the  offer.  Their  new  land 
consists  of  about  two  million  acres  of  the  finest  sheep  country 
in  South  Africa,  lying  immediately  under  the  Kahlamba  Moun- 
tains, and  possessing  great  capabilities  for  the  growth  of  corn. 
They  are  a settled  community,  with  missionaries,  and  churches, 
and  schools. 

Griqualand  is  succeeded  by  Natal.  In  1838  there  was  a 
great  expatriation  of  Dutch  farmers  from  the  Cape  Colony,  and 
a large  number  of  those  self-exiled  people  settled  down  in  what 
is  now  Natal.  They  entered  the  country  from  the  interior,  and 
to  their  eyes  and  minds,  tired  of  long  wanderings  in  untrodden 
and  pathless  wildernesses,  the  fair  scene  which  spread  before 
them  from  the  top  of  the  Kahlamba  Mountains  must  have 
seemed  like  a promised  land.  But  not  long  did  they  enjoy 
their  independence.  The  territory  was  annexed  to  the  Cape 
Colony  in  1843,  and  these  Dutch  settlers  again  migrated  to  the 
northward,  and  founded  what  is  known  as  the  South  African, 
or  Transvaal,  Republic. 

Beyond  Natal  is  Zululand.  Delagoa  Bay  is  generally  re- 
garded as  marking  the  northern  limits  of  this  territory.  We 
have  not  heard  much  respecting  this  country ; and  yet  it  is 
large,  rich,  and  tempting,  and  visited  every  year  by  large  num- 
bers of  traders.  Zululand  is  in  many  respects  a modified 
counterpart  of  Natal.  It  it  a broken  and  hilly  country,  very 
beautiful,  with  an  area  of  about  twenty-two  thousand 
square  miles.  It  was  famous  for  its  herds  till  pleuro-pneumonia 
devastated  South  Africa,  and  even  yet  many  cattle  are  exported 
from  it.  The  population  is  rapidly  decreasing. 

Beyond  Zululand  are  the  Portuguese  settlements.  Vasco  da 
Gama’s  discoveries  along  this  coast  of  Africa  were  at  once  fol- 
lowed up  by  several  ventures  of  colonization  and  conquest  on 
the  part  of  the  Portuguese.  Attention  was  directed  to  those  dis- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


31 


tant  and  mythical  shores  by  the  reputed  existence  of  gold  in 
great  quantities,  and  more  than  one  expedition  was  fitted  out 
on  a gigantic  scale  for  the  purpose  of  searching  for,  and  taking 
possession  of,  the  reputed  El  Dorado.  Most  of  these  enter- 
prises failed.  Fever,  the  lack  of  food,  and  the  hostility  of  the 
natives,  were  obstacles  that  were  never  surmounted,  and  the 
traditionary  Ophir  was  never  reached.  But  gold  was  obtained 
by  the  natives,  and  on  to  the  present  time  they  have  brought  it 
from  unknown  regions,  stowed  away  in  quills,  as  a means  of 
barter.  In  due  time  the  Portuguese  found  a source  of  wealth, 
not  in  gold-mines,  but  in  the  slave-trade,  which,  sanctioned  by 
a Papal  bull,  has  become  the  leading  traffic  of  the  East  African 
coast.  The  Portuguese  gradually  abandoned  all  attempts  at 
colonization.  All  traces  of  their  settlements  cease  within  a few 
miles  of  the  shore,  except  where  the  depopulated  lands  and 
wasted  homes  present  sad  tokens  of  their  presence.  The  Port- 
uguese domination  has  been  the  blight  of  East  Africa.  It  has 
aS  but  sealed  lip  the  coast  to  everything  but  the  brutality  and 
rapacity  of  the  men  who  have  made  the  name  of  their  coun- 
try a by -word  in  the  seas,  and  who  have  prostituted  to  the 
vilest  ends  the  monopoly  which  they  have  enjoyed.  The  Brit- 
ish have  made  repeated  attempts  to  open  up  legitimate  trading 
connections  with  the  Portuguese  ports,  but  have  failed.  Ves- 
sels have  been  seized,  trading  parties  stopped,  property  confis- 
cated, and  the  traders  themselves  imprisoned  or  detained  at 
these  centres  of  lawlessness.  Around  these  places  the  natives 
are  more  demoralized  than  in  any  other  part  of  Africa,  Euro- 

Sean  vices  being  engrafted  on  the  baser  passions  of  heathenism. 

loral  and  social  obligations  are  trampled  down,  and  the  white 
race,  which  ought  to  be  the  type  of  a higher  and  purer  form 
of  life,  is  degraded  and  made  hateful  in  the  eyes  of  the  abor- 
igines. Dr.  Livingstone  bears  testimony  that  while  English 
influence  on  the  West  Coast  had  been  most  successful  in  nutting 
down  the  slave-trade,  in  spite  of  vast  expenditure  the  efforts  of 
the  Imperial  Government  and  its  squadron  on  those  eastern 
coasts  had  been  comparatively  abortive.  There  is  a Portuguese 
trade  on  the  east  coast  in  ivory,  gums,  feathers,  skins,  oil, 
woods,  fibre,  and  even  cotton;  but  the  most  considerable 
traffic  has  been  in  human  flesh.  This  fact  obstructs  all  at- 
tempts at  civilization  as  made  from  the  coast. 

Beyond  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Cape  Colony  and  the 
western  border  of  Natal,  there  lie  two  republics,  chiefly  com- 
posed of  Boer  families,  which  are  of  Dutch  extraction.  The 
territory  of  these  is  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Orange  River.  The 


32 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


climate  of  this  region  is  one  of  the  healthiest  in  South  Africa : 
the  country  is  several  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level,  it  en- 
jo}rs  a remarkably  clear  and  keen  atmosphere,  and  there  are 
few  rivers  and  but  little  moist  ground  to  give  dampness  to  the 
air.  There  are  immense  herds  of  game,  consisting  of  elands, 
cjnaggas,  wildebeests,  and  other  antelopes,  which  still  course 
over  these  plains,  although  it  is  estimated  that  there  are  thirty- 
seven  thousand  persons  of  European  origin  resident  in  the 
state. 

The  Transvaal  Republic  is  one  of  the  largest  territorial  div- 
isions of  South  Africa,  and  covers  an  area  of  more  than  one 
hundred  thousand  square  miles.  It  spreads  over  six  parallels 
of  latitude,  rims  up  considerably  within  the  southern  tropic, 
and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Limpopo  River,  which 
llows  into  the  Indian  Ocean,  just  at  its  southern  boundary. 
There  »s  a wide  range  of  products.  The  distance  from  the  coast, 
four  hundred  miles,  discourages  the  cultivation  of  grain  for  ex- 
port ; sheep-farming  and  cattle-breeding  are  the  general  means 
of  subsistence  and  wealth.  But  the  farmers  of  the  Transvaal 
are  a primitive  race,  and  contented  with  very  small  things. 
There  arc  exceptions,  but  generally,  so  long  as  they  have  enough 
yearly  to  barter  at  Natal  for  the  few  commodities  which  they  ab- 
solutely need,  their  wants  are  satisfied,  and  their  aspirations  have 
rest.  They  are  devoted  conscientiously  to  the  doctrines  and 
service  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church.  The  Republic  is  gov- 
erned by  a president,  with  an  executive  council  of  live  members, 
and  a Volksraad,or  legislative  assembly,  consisting  of  members 
elected  by  the  people,  no  qualification  being  required  of  voters 
except  that  of  manhood.  This  representative  body  meets  twice 
a year;  the  members  receive  fifteen  shillings  a day  for  their 
attendance,  and  many  of  them  live  comfortably  during  the  ses- 
sion, domiciled  in  their  wagons  on  the  market-square.  The 
Republic  does  uot  prosper  as  a government,  but  has  been  drift- 
ing more  and  more  for  several  years  into  anarchy  and  confu- 
sion. The  great  evil  of  which  complaint  has  to  be  made 
against  these  people  is  their  encouragement  of  slavery.  The 
Raft'res  iu  these  parts  are  in  the  main  an  inoffensive  people, 
who  would  live  quietly  euough  if  they  were  allowed  to  possess 
their  land  and  cattle  in  security.  But,  at  particular  seasons, 
the  young  Boers  rush  out  upon  them,  killing  as  many  as  possi- 
ble, letting  the  women  go,  and  seizing  upon  all  the  children. 
These  they  44  apprentice  ” to  traders  and  store-keepers,  who  en- 
ter “the  article”  iu  their  books  as  44  black  ivory,”  and  some- 
times there  are  as  many  as  six  thousand  thus  enslaved  iu  the 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


33 


course  of  a year.  Some  of  the  Boers  treat  their  own  slaves 
with  kindness,  feeding  them  and  clothing  them,  and  flogging 
them  for  their  good,  as  they  may  be  supposed  to  require  ; but 
kindness  is  the  exception,  and  severity  the  rule. 

East  Africa  extends  from  Natal  northwards  to  the  Red  Sea, 
and  includes  Sofala,  Mozambique,  Zanzibar,  and  the  Somali 
country.  But  little  is  known  of  it  beyond  the  shores.  The 
Sofala  Coast  extends  from  Delagoa  Bay  to  the  Zambesi  River. 
It  is  flat,  sandy,  and  marshy,  gradually  ascending  towards  the 
interior.  There  are  many  rivers.  Where  there  is  soil  it  is 
rich  and  fertile.  Mozambique  extends  from  the  Zambesi  to 
Cape  Delgado,  and  is  similar  in  its  features  to  the  Sofala  Coast. 
The  country  is  inhabited  by  the  large  and  powerful  tribe  of 
the  Macuas.  The  principal  river  is  tne  Zambesi. 

Zanzibar  extends  from  Cape  Delgado  to  the  River  Jub,  near 
the  equator.  There  are  few  bays  or  harbors.  The  region 
possesses  a great  number  of  rivers.  The  vegetation  is  luxuri- 
ant. The  fauna  comprises  all  the  more  characteristic  African 
species.  The  inhabitants  in  general  are  the  Sawahilij  but  the 
coasts  are  under  the  dominion  of  the  Arabs,  whose  chief  rulers 
are  the  Imaurn  of  Muscat  and  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar.  The 
island  of  Zanzibar  used  to  be  the  residence  of  the  Imaum,  but 
the  dominion  being  divided,  the  Sultan  of  the  Zanzibar  portion 
now  lives  there.  Mombas,  on  a small  island  close  to  the  main 
shore,  has  the  finest  harbor  on  that  coast.  The  Somali  country 
is  the  eastern  Korn  of  Africa.  There  is  a considerable  amount 
of  commerce.  The  inhabitants  in  general  belong  to  the  Galla 
tribe ; but  the  trade  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Arabs. 

Central  Africa  is  the  region  which  extends  from  the  southern 
borders  of  the  Sahara  in  the  north,  to  Cape  Colony  in  the 
south;  and  from  Senegambia  in  the  west,  to  the  territory  of 
the  Egyptian  pashalic  on  the  east.  Within  this  territory  are 
the  Tsad,  and  those  other  great  lakes  which  have  been  the  sub- 
jects of  more  recent  discovery  and  geographical  exploration. 
The  inhabitants  are  Negroes  of  various  races,  Arabs,  Moors, 
and  Berbers;  divided  into  separate  tribes,  under  numerous 
rulers  and  chiefs. 

Bambarra  occupies  part  of  the  basin  of  the  Joliba,  the  upper 
source  of  the  Kawara.  The  people  are  Mandingoes  and  Fou- 
lahs.  Segu,  the  capital,  has  thirty  thousand  inhabitants. 

Timbnctoo,  also  in  the  basin  of  the  Joliba,  is  below  Bam- 
barra, and  is  partly  within  the  Sahara.  Houssa  lies  to  the 
north,  and  is  inhabited  by  Foulahs  and  Negroes — the  Negroes 
predominating.  The  capital  is  one  of  the  largest  towns  occu- 


34 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL. 


Eied  by  Negroes ; it  is  named  Sackatoo.  Another  large  town, 
lano,  has  a population  of  from  thirty  to  forty  thousand. 

Bonin  is  a powerful  state,  extending  on  the  west  to  the  10° 
of  long.,  on  the  east  to  Lake  Tsad  and  the  kingdom  of  Baghirmi, 
and  on  the  south  as  far  as  Mandara  and  Adamaua,  in  about  11° 
north  lat. 

Baghirmi  is  another  powerful  kingdom  to  the  east  of  Bornu. 
The  inhabitants  are  given  to  war,  and  are  tempted  thereto  by 
the  slave-trade.  Darfur  and  Waday  are  to  the  east  of  Baghirmi, 
and  are  densely  populated.  A great  part  of  this  territory  re- 
sembles in  character  the  Sahara.  Adamaua  is  an  extensive 
country  south  of  Iloussa  and  Bornu,  and  is  under  Foulah  do- 
minion. It  is  a large  and  cultivated  valley.  It  was  first  visited 
by  Dr.  Barth  in  1851. 

A considerable  number  of  islands  besides  Madagascar  be- 
long to  Africa,  but  these,  in  such  a work  as  the  present,  it  will 
be  sufficient  merely  to  name : the  Madeiras,  belonging  to  Por- 
tugal, lie  off  the  north-west  coast  at  a distance  of  three  hundred 
and  sixty  miles;  the  Canaries,  belonging  to  Spain,  are  about 
three  hundred  miles  south  of  Madeira,  being  the  supposed 
Fortunate  Islands  of  the  ancients ; the  Cape  Verde  Islands, 
subject,  to  Portugal,  a numerous  group  about  eighty  miles  from 
Cape  Verde;  Fernando  Po,  a mountainous  island  in  the  Bight 
of  Biafra;  St.  Thomas,  immediately  under  the  equator;  Anno- 
bom,  in  2°  south  lat.,  and  belonging  to  Spain ; Ascension,  a 
small  arid  islet,  volcanic  in  character ; St.  Helena,  a great  rock 
rising  two  thousand  six  hundred  and  ninety-two  feet  from  the 
sea ; the  Comoro  Isles  are  four  in  number,  and  lie  on  the  north 
of  the  Mozambique  channel ; Bourbon,  four  hundred  miles 
east  of  Madagascar,  is  a colony  of  France;  Mauritius,  ceded  to 
Britain  by  France  in  1814,  is  ninety  miles  east  of  Bourbon  ; 
and  Socotra,  a large  island,  east  of  Cape  Jerdaffun,  with  an 
Arab  population,  belonging  to  Great  Britain. 


CHAPTER  II. 

MADAGASCAR. 

To  avoid  any  interruption  of  the  continuity  of  our  narra- 
tive, we  will  introduce  here,  and  now,  what  ought  to  be  said 
respecting  Madagascar.  Though  not  a part  of  the  continent  of 
Africa,  it  is  yet  closely  related  to  it,  and  no  description  of  the 
former  would  be  complete  without  some  reference  to  it. 

This  immense  island  stretches  down  towards  Africa,  on  the 
western  edge  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  at  a distance  of  from  three 
to  four  hundred  miles.  It  is  about  nine  hundred  miles  in 
length,  and  in  breadth  is  from  three  to  four  hundred,  with  an 
area  of  about  234,440  square  miles.  A great  range  of  moun- 
tains, extending  from  north  to  south,  near  the  centre,  forms  a 
lofty  watershed  from  east  to  west.  On  one  of  these  heights  is 
the  capital,  Antananarivo,  about  five  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  There  are  many  streams  watering  the  valleys 
and  plains,  but  the  surface  of  the  country  is  so  much  broken 
that  none  of  them  are  navigable  for  any  great  distance.  There 
arc  four  great  forests,  crossing  the  island  in  four  different 
parts,  the  shade  of  them  covering  both  hill  and  valley.  Every- 
where may  be  seen  the  rankness  and  splendor  of  tropical  veg- 
etation ; the  palm,  in  many  kinds,  baobabs,  mangoes,  sago-trees, 
and  figs,  are  abundant  in  all  the  wooded  districts. 

Being  almost  entirely  within  the  torrid  zone,  while  at  the 
same  time  it  presents  such  variety  of  elevation,  the  island  has  a 
wide  range  or  temperature  and  climate,  the  lowlands  suffering 
from  oppressive  heat,  and  the  mountain  ranges  from  severe 
cold.  The  hills  are  healthy,  but,  as  in  all  tropical  countries, 
the  sea-shore  and  the  low-lying  valleys  are  afflicted  with  fever. 
Healthfulness  being  in  proportion  to  elevation,  the  towns  are 
usually  built  on  hills. 

The  inhabitants  are  a peculiar  race.  The  original  stock  ap- 
pears to  have  been  Malay,  but  the  island  being  so  near  Africa 
as  to  be  really  a part  of  it,  there  has  been  a iarge  infusion  of 
Arab  and  Negro  blood  into  the  population.  A Malay  mixture 
is  to  be  met  with  in  other  parts  of  Africa  proper,  and,  indeed, 
may  be  found  spreading  itself  east  and  west  over  twenty  de- 


36 


MADAGASCAR 


grees,  or  more  than  half  the  circumference  of  the  globe.  The 
whole  island  was,  within  less  than  a century  ago,  broken  up 
into  more  than  a hundred  separate  and  commonly  hostile  gov- 
ernments. But  during  the  last  fifty  years  the  Negroid  Sakala- 
vas  of  the  north  and  west,  the  Batsileo  of  the  south,  and  the 
Betanim  and  others  of  the  east,  have  been  brought  under  the 
common  sway  of  the  fairer-skinned  and  straighter-haired 
Iiovas  (or  Ovahs)  of  the  centre. 


IKON  SMELTERS  IN  MADAGASCAR. 

The  conversion  of  Madagascar  to  Christianity  forms  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  chapters  in  modern  history.  Iladama  I., 
who  ascended  the  throne  in  1808,  had  heard  of  'Western  re- 
finement, and  cultivated  acquaintance  and  friendship  with  the 
English.  The  furniture  and  customs  and  dress  of  Europe 
were  largely  introduced  by  him  into  his  court ; and  these 
stood,  and  still  stand,  in  striking  contrast  with  a barbarism 


MADAGASCAR. 


37 


which,  though  at  first  resembling  that  of  the  African  Kaffres, 
is  gradually  yielding,  but  which,  especially  in  remote  parts,  still 
in  a measure  remains. 

The  government  had  been  previously  almost  a pure  despotism, 
• and  till  a later  period  such  it  remained.  Slavery  had  always 
prevailed.  The  fearful  ordeal  of  tangena,  or  poison-water,  to 
which  suspected  criminals,  as  among  many  savage  tribes,  had 
been  subjected,  is  now,  however,  abolished.  Formerly,  at  least, 
the  Malagasy  were  a temperate  people,  but  chastity  was  un- 
known. They  had  really  no  religion  before  the  establishment 
of  the  missions.  They  had  idols,  it  is  true,  but  these  were  fe- 
tiches rather  than  gods.  A red  rag,  or  a shapeless  block,  was 
honored  as  having  divine  powers,  and  charms  were  in  univer- 
sal request,  but  there  were  no  priests,  no  temples,  nor  any 
forms  of  worship  whatever.  Divination  by  means  of  rice  or 
beans  ruled  every  event  of  individual  life  or  public  proced- 
ure. 

Missionary  effort  was  begun  among  these  people  in  the  year 
1820.  Badama  had  invited  missionaries  at  an  earlier  period, 
but  it  had  not  been  possible  sooner  to  comply  with  his  request. 
He  patronized  the  schools,  and  left  the  mission  at  full  liberty 
to  follow  out  its  higher  purposes,  while,  at  the  same  time,  it 
was  the  secular  good  and  the  civilization  which  he  prized, 
rather  than  the  spiritual  instruction.  He  had  already  abol- 
ished the  slave-trade,  and  under  his  protection  the  path  of  the 
mission  was  peaceful.  His  personal  character  aided  the  mis- 
sionaries. Stern  in  justice,  strict  in  his  word,  and  kind  as  a 
rule,  he  led  liis  people  like  a flock,  and  proved  himself  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  civilizers  the  world  has  ever  seen.  He 
abolished  petty  wars,  and  made  the  Ilovas  triumphant  ever  the 
whole  island,  introduced  many  arts  hitherto  unknown,  ex- 
tended agriculture,  began  colonies,  and  adopted  and  encour- 
aged everything  that  promised  to  raise  his  people  and  to  make 
himself  a great  king.  He  learned  to  mock  the  diviners,  to 
ridicule  the  holy-water,  and  to  twit  the  worshippers  of  idols. 
But  his  last  days  were  his  most  immoral,  and  he  died  of  dissi- 
pation and  vicious  excess  in  the  very  prime  of  his  life.  Dur- 
ing the  eight  years  of  his  reign  during  which  missionaries  had 
been  on  the  island,  they  had  begun  a work  which  was  destined 
to  revolutionize  the  whole  of  Madagascar.  They  overcame  to 
a large  extent  the  prejudice  of  the  people  against  foreigners, 
impressed  European  ideas  and  religious  principles  on  ten  thou- 
sand children  whom  they  taught  to  read  and  write,  set  to  work 
the  printing-press,  and  put  into  circulation  innumerable  books 


38 


MADAGASCAR. 


and  tracts,  educational  and  religions,  and,  above  all,  sent  abroad 
the  Bible  in  Malagasy,  the  knowledge  of  which  kept  alive 
among  the  people  the  sacred  fire  of  a sincere  devotion,  which 
could  not  be  quenched  by  the  fiercest  persecution,  even  after 
their  teachers  had  been  compelled  to  flee. 

Radama  died  in  1828.  Ranavalona,  one  of  his  widows,  be- 
came his  successor.  For  a time  the  missionaries  were  confirmed 
in  their  privileges;  but  this  was  only  the  calm  before  the 
bursting  of  the  storm.  Additional  idols  were  consecrated,  and 
bloody  sacrifices  profusely  offered.  The  country  must  be  puri- 
fied and  set  free  from  the  infection  of  the  new  faith.  At 
no  previous  period  had  the  mission  been  so  promising.  The 
first  baptism  of  natives  took  place  in  1831.  The  congrega- 
tions were  crowded ; the  press  was  sending  out  more  than  it 
had  ever  produced ; native  converts  were  beginning  to  teach 
others  what  they  themselves  had  learned  to  believe ; even 
slaves  turned  preachers  of  the  new  faith.  But  the  Queen  was 
fairly  in  the  hands  of  the  idol  and  native  party.  She  must 
either  yield  before  this  new  religion,  or  go  further  in  her  oppo- 
sition to  it.  She  would  go  further ! All  the  privileges  con- 
ceded by  Radama  were  withdrawn.  It  was  the  Queen’s  pleas- 
ure that  all  who  had  attended  Christian  meetings  or  sung 
hymns  to  Christ,  should  confess  the  fact  and  trust  to  her  clem- 
ency ; Christian  books  were  to  be  delivered  up  and  destroyed. 
The  missionaries  might  teach  the  mechanical  arts ; but  their 
schools  must  be  closed,  and  they  could  not  be  permitted  in  any 
way  to  speak  about  religion.  All  this  had  been  reached  by 
1835,  and  the  missionaries  were  compelled  to  leave. 

The  land  was  then  scoured  by  the  soldiery.  The  converts 
were  of  all  classes,  and  there  was  mercy  for  none.  The  suf- 
ferers were  fined  if  they  confessed ; but  many  were  driven 
from  their  habitations,  and  obliged  to  take  refuge  in  swamps 
and  forests,  and  not  a few  died  of  starvation  and  exposure. 
Many  were  sold  into  slavery  ; many  were  banished  to  distant 
parts  of  the  island  ; but  their  faith  remained  unshaken.  Some 
were  speared,  some  suffocated  in  subterranean  rice-pits,  some 
crucified,  some  burned  alive,  some  scalded  to  death,  and  many 
flung  over  a precipice  at  the  capital  and  left  to  the  dogs.  This 
dreadful  state  of  things  continued  from  1835  to  the  death  of 
the  Queen  in  1861. 

But  after  the  night  comes  the  morning.  The  Queen  was 
succeeded  by  her  illegitimate  son,  Radama  II.,  who  was  no 
sooner  on  the  throne  than  he  proclaimed  himself  the  friend  of 
the  English,  invited  the  missionaries  to  return,  abolished  all  re- 


MADAGASCAR . 


39 


strictions  on  foreign  commerce,  established  schools,  and  enacted 
universal  toleration.  The  banished  Christians  were  at  once  re- 
called, and  a general  jail  delivery  made  of  prisoners  for  opinion. 

The  London  Missionary  Society,  which  had  established  the 
mission  at  first,  lost  no  time  in  responding  to  the  King’s  invita- 
tion. Mr.  William  Ellis  had  been  in  Madagascar  in  the  last 
years  of  the  Queen.  This  would  be  his  third  visit  to  the  island. 
He  had  upon  him  the  effect  of  missionary  toil  in  another  land, 
and  he  was  now  advanced  in  age;  but  ho  cheerfully  complied 
with  the  request  of  the  Directors,  and  at  once  proceeded  to 
the  task  of  restoring  a work  that  had  been  so  disastrously  in- 
terrupted. Six  missionaries  immediately  followed  him.  He 
and  they  found  that  very  many  of  the  former  converts  had,  in 
secret,  remained  true  to  their  convictions,  and,  by  reading  the 
Bible  and  maintaining  Christian  intercourse  with  each  other, 
had  been  enabled  to  endure  the  days  of  persecution. 

Nothing  could  be  more  cordial  than  the  welcome  which  the 
missionaries  received.  True,  there  was  no  security,  but  in  the 
will  of  the  young  king.  He  had  been  reported  a Christian, 
but  the  fact  was  not  established.  His  disposition  was  humane, 
his  policy  was  just  towards  ail,  and  his  intercourse  with  the 
missionaries  was  always  friendly.  But  he  might  change  any 
day, — permission  was  required  for  every  step  which  it  might 
be  desired  to  take,  and  any  privilege  already  granted  might  be 
revoked  in  a moment.  The  toleration,  however,  was  complete. 
At  the  coronation,  the  Protestants  found  themselves  ranged 
in  the  same  square  with  the  keepers  of  idols  on  the  one  hand, 
and  the  Sisters  of  Mercy  on  the  other. 

The  reign  of  Badama  II.,  however,  was  short.  Of  a natural 
disposition  more  than  ordinarily  amiable,  and  with  his  mind 
disposed  towards  the  reception  of  Christianity,  he  was  never- 
theless made  the  dupe  of  the  idol  party,  and,  it  is  to  be  /eared, 
that  he  gave  way  to  habits  of  intemperance.  His  mind  appa- 
rently became  affected.  Matters  reached  a crisis  in  the  course 
of  1863 — a revolution  of  the  Government  occurred — and  he 
was  strangled  in  his  own  palace.  Notwithstanding  his  weak- 
nesses and  his  faults,  he  had  deserved  a better  fate.  He  had 
opened  the  country  to  the  industry,  enterprise,  and  skill  of 
foreigners,  had  entered  into  treaties  of  friendship  and  com- 
merce with  England  and  France,  had  established  perfect  re- 
ligious liberty  and  equality  for  natives  and  foreigners,  a id  had 
placed  the  relations  of  Madagascar  with  other  countries  on  a 
better  foundation  than  had  ever  before  existed.  He  had  again 
abolished  the  tangena  and  the  punishment  of  death,  lie  had 


4a 


MADAGASCAR. 


freely  granted  sites  for  the  Protestant  churches.  He  had  in- 
troduced the  payment  of  wages  for  work  done  by  the  natives, 
instead  of  the  demand  of  the  Government  as  formerly  for 
unrequited  labor;  and  by  justice,  generosity,  and  peaceable 
measures,  had  sought  to  bind  the  different  races  to  their  rulers, 
and  to  each  other. 

His  widow  was  constrained  to  become  his  successor,  under 
the  name  Rasoherina — the  form  of  the  government  being  much 
modified : the  word  of  the  sovereign  was  not  any  longer  to  be 
law ; the  sovereign,  the  nobles,  and  the  heads  of  the  people 
were  to  uuite  in  making  the  laws  ; friendship  with  foreigners 
was  to  be  maintained  ; no  one  was  to  be  put  to  death  on  the 
word  of  the  sovereign  alone ; religion  and  worship  were  to  be  free 
to  all ; the  ordeal  of  the  tangena  was  not  to  l>e  used,  but  death 
was  to  be  inflicted  for  great  crimes  ; and  “ the  sovereign  should 
not  be  permitted  to  drink  spirituous  liquors.”  The  new  Queen 
speedily  confirmed  to  the  missionaries  all  their  liberties  and 
privileges. 

Mr.  Ellis  returned  to  England  in  1866,  having  seen  the  thor- 
ough re-establishment  of  the  mission — a work  which  he  greatly 
aided  by  his  tact  and  sagacity  and  unwearied  perseverance. 

When  the  missionaries  were  driven  from  their  post  in  1835, 
they  left  a field  in  which  they  had  labored  alone ; and,  now 
that  they  have  returned,  the  work  is  chiefly  theirs,  but  they  arc 
efficiently  assisted  by  agents  sent  to  their  help  by  the  Society 
of  Friends.  These  last  are  principally  occupied  in  the  work 
of  the  schools. 

A few  years  ago  there  was  a wide-spread  and  general  de- 
struction of  the  idols,  in  which  the  Queen  6et  the  example. 
Places  of  worship  have  sprung  up  in  all  directions,  and  every 
village  which  contains  any  great  number  of  converts  has  its 
separate  church.  Almost  the  entire  cost  of  these  buildings 
has  been  borne  by  the  people  themselves.  One  of  the  mission- 
aries says,  “ The  work  of  chapel-building  still  goes  on  vigor- 
ously. The  skill  and  care  employed  in  erecting  the  house  of 
prayer,  the  laudable  desire  of  the  people  to  have  the  best  build- 
ing they  can  afford,  perhaps  also  tne  emulation  excited  in  them 
by  the  newly  finished  work  of  their  neighbors,  all  tend  to  pro- 
mote, not  their  religious  welfare  alone,  but  their  comfort  and 
civilization.  It  has  already  excited  a marked  influence  in  im- 
proving their  dwellings,  both  as  to  neatness  and  comfort. 
Among  the  places  of  worship  finished  during  the  year,  that  at 
Nameliana  deserves  especial  notice.  It  will  accommodate  1,600 
or  1,800  people,  and  its  interior  embellishments,  without  be- 


MADAGASCAR 


41 


ing  at  all  costly  or  out  of  taste,  are  quite  a triumph  of  Mala- 


art.” 


There  is  now  a Theological  Institution  for  training  native 
ministers ; a Normal  School  for  the  instruction  of  teachers ; 
and  many  schools  for  children  and  others  spread  over  the  island. 
The  number  of  English  missionaries  in  1872  was  twenty,  and, 
on  account  of  the  great  increase  in  the  number  of  hearers,  an 
augmentation  of  ten  was  guaranteed.  There  are  not  fewer 
than  two  thousand  native  pastors  and  missionaries.  Besides 
these,  there  is  a large  staff  of  teachers,  some  of  them  English, 
wholly  devoted  to  their  profession. 

Fears  have  been  entertained,  since  the  accession  of  the 
Queen  and  the  Prime  Minister  to  the  ranks  of  the  Christians, 
lest  the  liberties  of  those  who  still  cling  to  heathenism  should 
be  interfered  with,  on  the  one  hand,  or  that  the  Christians 
themselves  should  be  overruled  on  the  other.  But  such  fears 
have  not  been  realized.  These  exalted  personages  seem  to 
have  really  learned  the  lesson  of  toleration,  and,  although 
there  is  a church  in  the  palace,  no  one  is  compelled  to  attend, 
nor  is  the  free  action  of  the  congregation  either  there  or  else- 
where allowed  to  be  in  anywise  impeded  or  hindered. 

The  general  burning  of  the  idols  produced  much  excitement 
and  inquiry  in  the  whole  population,  including  all  ranks.  In 
1835,  as  has  already  been  stated,  the  number  of  converts  was 
200.  In  the  three  last  past  years  very  large  additions  have 
been  made.  Within  that  space  of  time  there  have  been  not 
fewer  than  258,000  converts,  including  32,000  church  members. 
Those  who  are  styled  converts  are  persons  who  have  adjured 
heathenism,  and  who  are  gradually  feeling  their  way  into 
clearer  light ; the  members  are  those  who  have  been  proved 
and  committed  to  the  full  communion  of  the  Church.  Among 
both  classes  there  must,  doubtless,  be  diverse  grades  of  intelli- 
gence ; but  the  present  position  and  the  future  prospect  are 
both  abundantly  encouraging. 


CHAPTER  III. 


NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS. 

James  Bruce  was  born  at  Kinnaird  House,  in  the  county  of 
Stirling,  Scotland,  in  1730.  He  received  his  early  education  at 
Harrow,  from  which  he  went  to  the  University  of  Edinburgh, 
where  he  studied  with  a view  to  the  profession  of  the  law. 
But  li 3 changed  his  purpose,  and  entered  into  partnership  with 
a wine-merchant,  whose  daughter  he  married.  His  wife  died 
withii.  a year,  and  he  made  a tour  abroad.  His  father  died 
during  his  absence,  and  he  consequently  succeeded  to  the  es- 
tate of  Kinnaird.  On  his  return  to  England,  he  sought  public 
employment,  and  at  length  was  indebted  to  Lord  Halifax  for 
the  appointment  of  consul  at  Algiers.  He  repaired  to  his 
post  in  1763,  and  employed  himself  there  for  a year  in  the 
study  of  Oriental  languages.  He  commenced  travelling  by 
visits  to  Tunis,  Tripoli,  Rhodes,  Cyprus,  Syria,  and  several  parts 
of  Asia  Minor,  where,  accompanied  by  an  able  Italian 
draughtsman,  he  made  drawings  of  the  ruins  of  Palmyra, 
Baalbec,  and  other  remains  of  antiquity,  all  of  which  he  subse- 
quently deposited  in  the  King’s  Library  at  Kew.  They  are 
now  to  be  found  in  the  British  Museum.  He  was  accustomed 
to  the  language  of  hyperbole  and  boast,  which  was  his  weak- 
ness, and  "he  himself  says,  “ This  was  the  most  magnificent 
present  in  that  time  ever  made  by  a subject  to  his  sovereign.” 
Of  his  first  travels  he  never  published  any  acccount.  In  J une, 
1768,  he  began  his  famous  journey  to  discover  the  sources  of 
the  Nile.  Proceeding  first  to  Cairo,  he  navigated  the  Nile  to 
Syene,  thence  crossed  the  desert  to  the  Red  Sea,  and,  arriving 
at  Jidda,  passed  some  months  in  Arabia  Felix,  and  after  various 
detentions  reached  Gondar,  the  capital  of  Abyssinia,  in  Febru- 
ary, 1770.  In  that  country,  he  ingratiated  himself  with  the 
sovereign  and  other  influential  persons,  both  men  and  women, 
himself  professing,  not  falsely,  to  be  physician,  courtier,  and 
soldier.  On  Nov.  14,  1770,  he  obtained  the  great  object  of  his 
wishes — a sight  of  what  he  thought  to  be  the  sources  of  the 
Nile.  Claiming  to  be  the  first  European  who  had  accomplished 
this  interesting  discovery,  his  exultation  was  proportionate,  and 


NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS.  43 


lie  records  it  with  characteristic  exuberance  of  expression.  On 
his  return  to  Gondar,  lie  found  the  country  engaged  in  a civil 
war,  and  was  detained  two  years  before  he  could  obtain  per- 
mission to  leave  it.  Thirteen  months  more  were  then  occupied 
in  travelling  back  to  Cairo,  in  which  journey  he  endured  ex- 
cessive privations.  He  returned  to  his  native  country  in  1773, 
and  retired  to  his  paternal  seat.  lie  married  again  and  main- 
tained the  character  of  an  elegant  and  liberal  host,  and  an  ami- 
able man  in  private  life ; but  was  capricious  in  his  friendships, 
and  haughty  to  strangers.  His  long-expected  “ Travels  ” did 
not  appear  until  1790,  in  four  large  quarto  volumes,  embellished 
with  plates.  These  volumes  are  replete  with  curious  informa- 
tion concerning  apart  of  the  world  but  little  known  to  Europeans, 
and  contain  much  interesting  personal  adventure  and  fine  de- 
scription. It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  authority  of  the  work, 
in  regard  to  facts  of  natural  history  and  native  manners,  was 
questioned  on  its  first  appearance ; for  his  statements  have  been 
more  or  less  confirmed  by  all  succeeding  travellers  who  have 
come  near  or  touched  upon  his  track — namely,  Salt,  Coffin, 
Pearce,  Burckhardt,  Brown,  Clarke,  Wiltman,  and  Belzoni. 
Bruce,  during  the  few  remaining  years  of  his  life,  felt  keenly 
the  incredulity  of  the  public,  and  only  hoped  that  liis  daughter 
would  live  to  see  the  time  when  the  truth  of  all  he  had  written 
would  be  confirmed  by  subsequent  observations.  After  escap- 
ing great  and  manifold  dangers  in  his  wanderings  through  bar- 
barous countries,  this  enterprising  traveller  lost  his  life  in  con- 
sequence of  an  accidental  fall  downstairs  in  his  own  house  in 
April,  1794. 

Andrew  Sparkman,  a Swedish  naturalist  and  traveller,  was 
born  about  1747,  and  studied  medicine  at  Upsal.  In  1765  he 
made  a voyage  to  China.  On  his  return  he  went  to  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  in  1772 ; he  there  joined  Captain  Cook  in  his 
voyage  round  the  world,  and,  returning  to  the  Cape  in  1775, 
undertook  a journey  into  the  interior  of  Africa.  He  first 
visited  Mossel  Bay ; then  striking  more  into  the  heart  of  the 
country,  he  penetrated  as  far  as  the  Great  Fish  Biver,  and 
afterwards,  taking  a direct  northerly  course,  advanced  as  far 
as  lat.  28°  30'  S.  and  350  leagues  from  the  Cape.  On  February 
6th,  1776,  he  turned  southward,  and  occasionally  deviating 
from  his  former  track,  reached  Cape  Town  on  the  1 5th  of 
April,  laden  with  specimens  of  plants  and  animals.  In  the 
course  of  the  same  year,  he  returned  home ; but  in  1787  made 
another  attempt  to  explore  the  interior,  which  was  abortive. 
He  died  at  Stockholm  in  1820.  Sparrman’s  reputation  is 


44  NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS. 


founded  chiefly  on  his  travels,  which  were  published  first  in 
German  at  Berlin,  and  subsequently  in  English  at  London. 
The  map  prefixed  to  his  book  is  the  first  in  which  the  coast  of 
Africa  from  the  Cape  to  the  Great  Fish  River  is  laid  down 
with  any  degree  of  accuracy. 

Mungo  Park  was  born  at  Fowlshiels,  near  Selkirk,  Scotland, 
on  the  lOtli  of  September,  1771.  Ilis  father  occupied  the  farm 
of  Fowlshiels  under  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  lie  received  a 
good  preliminary  education,  and  afterwards  studied  medicine 
at  the  University  of  Edinburgh.  He  became  fond  of  botany, 
and  this  gave  a strong  color  to  his  whole  future  life.  The 
African  Association  wanted  a successor  to  Major  Houghton, 
and  Park  was  appointed.  Having  spent  about  two  years  in  and 
near  London,  gaining  the  necessary  qualifications,  he  set  sail  in 
May,  and  on  the  21st  of  June  following,  in  1795,  arrived  at 
Jillifr«;e,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Gambia.  He  explored  a con- 
siderable portion  of  the  course  of  the  Niger,  and  reached  Lon- 
don on  Christmas  morning,  1797.  Great  interest  was  excited 
by  the  narrative  of  his  expedition,  and  the  profits  on  its  publica- 
tion, together  with  the  liberal  compensation  made  by  the  Afri- 
can Association,  placed  him  for  a time  in  easy  circumstances. 
Having  married  the  daughter  of  the  gentleman  with  whom 
he  had  served  his  apprenticeship  as  a surgeon,  Miss  Ander- 
son, he  commenced  practice  on  his  own  account  at  Peebles, 
in  1801 ; but  being  offered  the  command  of  another  expedi- 
tion to  the  Niger  and  the  central  parts  of  Africa,  he  accepted 
it,  and  sailed  from  Portsmouth  on  the  30th  of  January,  1805. 
He  was  accompanied  by  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Anderson,  sur- 
geon ; Mr.  George  Scott,  draughtsman  ; five  artificers  from  the 
royal  dock-yards ; Lieutenant  Martyn,  and  thirty-five  privates  of 
the  Royal  African  Corps  stationed  at  Goree,  and  a Mandingo, 
Isaaco,  a priest  and  trader,  who  acted  as  guide.  The  object 
of  the  expedition  was  to  cross  from  the  Gambia  to  the  Niger, 
and  then  to  sail  down  the  latter  stream  to  the  ocean ; but  the 
expedition  was  altogether  unfortunate.  Mr.  Anderson  and 
others  fell  victims  to  the  climate.  Park’s  last  despatches  are 
dated  from  Sandsanding,  and  he  says,  “ I am  sorry  to  say  that 
of  forty-four  Europeans  who  left  the  Gambia  in  perfect  health, 
five  only  are  at  present  alive;  viz.,  three  soldiers  (one  deranged 
in  his  mind),  Lieutenant  Martyn,  and  myself.  . . . We  had  no 
contest  with  the  natives,  nor  was  any  of  us  killed  by  wild  ani- 
mals or  any  other  accident.”  He  left  Sandsanding  on  the  19th 
of  November,  and,  from  information  afterwards  obtained,  he 
seems  to  have  proceeded  down  as  far  as  Boussa,  6 50  miles  be- ' 


NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS.  45 


low  Timbuctoo,  where,  having  been  attacked  by  the  natives,  he 
and  his  companions  attempted  to  save  themselves  by  swimming, 
but  were  drowned.  Park  was  well  qualified  for  the  wort: 
which  he  undertook.  Physically,  he  was  a strong  man, — six 
feet  high,  and  well  proportioned,  with  a pleasant  countenance 
and  plain,  simple  manners.  Iiis  literary  and  scientific  acquire- 
ments were  respectable ; and  nothing  can  be  more  interesting 
than  the  idea  which  he  gives  of  the  African  forests  and  deserts, 
the  cities  of  the  Bambarra,  and  the  regions  watered  by  the 
Niger.  In  such  explorations,  the  treatment  which  one  receives 
is  very  various,  but  Park,  like  others,  found  the  disposition  of 
the  women  uniformly  benevolent,  and  in  proof  he  relates  his 
own  experience.  When  he  was  prohibited  by  the  King  of 
Bambarra  from  crossing  the  Niger,  and  ordered  to  pass  the 
night  in  a distant  village,  none  of  the  inhabitants  would  re- 
ceive him  into  their  houses,  and  he  was  preparing  to  lodge  in 
the  branches  of  a tree.  Exhausted  with  hunger  and  fatigue, 
and  unprotected  from  a storm,  he  was  relieved  by  a woman  re- 
turning from  the  labors  of  the  field.  He  was  kindly  invited 
to  her  hut,  and  was  most  carefully  tended.  The  other  women 
lightened  their  labor  by  songs,  one  of  which,  at  least,  must 
have  been  extempore,  for  Park  himself  was  the  subject  of  it. 
It  was  sung  by  one  of  the  young  women,  the  others  joining  in 
the  chorus.  The  air  was  sweet  and  plaintive ; and  the  words, 
literally  translated,  were  : “ The  winds  roared,  and  the  rains 
fell.  The  pooh  white  man,  faint  and  weary,  came  and  sat  un- 
der our  tree.  He  has  no  mother  to  bring  him  milk  ; no  wife ' 
to  grind  his  corn.  Chorus , — Let  us  pity  the  white  man  ; no 
mother  has  he,  etc.  etc.”  These  words  were  put  into  verse  by 
the  Duchess  of  Devonshire,  and  set  to  music;  by  Ferrari,  in 
the  following  song : 


“ The  wild  wind  roar’d,  the  rain  fell  fast ; 
The  white  man  yielded  to  the  blast : 

He  sat  him  down  beneath  our  tree  ; 

For  weary,  sad,  and  faint  was  he  ; 

And  ah ! no  wife  or  mother’s  care 
For  him  the  com  or  milk  prepare. 


Chorus. 


“ The  white  man  shall  our  pity  share  : 

Alas  ! ho  wife  or  mother's  care 
For  him  the  milk  or  corn  prepare. 

“ The  storm  is  o’er,  the  tempest  past : 

And  mercy’s  voice  has  hushed  the  blast : 


46  NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS. 


The  wind  is  heard  in  whispers  low, 

The  white  man  far  away  must  go  : — 

But  ever  in  his  heart  will  bear 
Remembrance  of  the  negro’s  care. 

Chorus. 

“ Go,  white  man , go;  hut  tcith  thee  bear 
The  negro's  wish,  the  negro's  prayer ; 

Remembrance  of  the  negro's  care." 

Frederic  Conrad  IIornemann  was  born  in  1772,  at  Ilildes- 
heim,  Germany,  and  became  a divinity  student  at  Gottingen. 
He  received  a clerical  appointment  in  Hanover ; but  an  ardent 
desire  to  visit  the  interior  of  Africa  induced  him,  in  1705,  to 
request  Blumenbach  to  recommend  him  to  the  African  Society 
in  London.  Being  accepted  by  the  Society,  he  visited  Cyprus 
and  Alexandria,  and  remained  several  months  in  Cairo,  to  learn 
the  language  of  the  Mangrabins,  or  Southern  Arabians.  The 
French  having  landed  in  Egypt,  he  was,  like  all  other  Euro- 
peans, detained  in  the  castle  at  Cairo,  that  he  might  escape  the 
rage  of  the  people.  Bonaparte,  being  informed  of  his  plans, 
gave  him  passports,  and  showed  a disposition  to  promote  his 
object*  in  every  possible  way.  On  the  5th  of  September,  lie 
left  Cairo  with  the  caravan  of  Fezzan.  On  the  8th  he  entered 
the  Libyan  desert,  reached  Siouah  on  the  16th,  and  arrived, 
after  a tedious  journey  of  seventy-four  days,  at  Murzook,  the 
capital  of  Fezzan.  He  remained  there  sick  for  some  time,  but 
on  his  recovery  made  an  excursion  to  Tripoli,  which  he  left  in 
January,  1800,  and,  on  the  12th  of  April  following,  lie  wrote 
that  he  was  about  to  start  on  a journey  with  the  great  caravan 
of  Bornu.  From  that  time  nothing  certain  was  heard  of  him 
till  1818,  when  Yon  Zach,  in  his  u Correspondanco  Astrono- 
inique.”  intimated  that  he  had  ascertained  that  Hornemann 
had  died  on  his  return  from  Tripoli  to  Fezzan,  of  fever,  and 
lay  buried  at  Aucalus.  His  journal,  written  in  German,  was 
translated  and  published  by  the  African  Society  in  1802,  that 
having  been  sent  home  before  his  decease. 

John  Louis  Burckiiardt  was  descended  from  a respectable 
family  in  Basle,  Switzerland,  and  was  born  in  1794.  As  he 
was  unwilling  to  enter  into  the  service  of  his  country,  at  that 
time  oppressed  by  France,  after  having  completed  his  studies 
at  Leipsic  and  Gottingen,  he  went  to  London  in  1806,  when 
the  African  Association  wished  to  make  a new  attempt  to  ex- 
plore Africa,  from  the  north  to  the  interior,  in  the  way  already 
traversed  by  Hornemann.  They  received  Burckhardt’s  pro- 


NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS.  47 

posal  to  undertake  this  journey  in  1808.  He  now  studied  the 
manners  of  the  East,  and  the  Arabian  language,  in  their  purest 
school  at  Aleppo.  He  remained  two  years  and  a half  in  Syria ; 
visited  Palmyra,  Damascus,  Lebanon,  and  other  regions  ; after 
which  he  went  to  Cairo,  in  order  to  proceed  with  a caravan 
through  the  northern  part  of  Africa  to  Fezzan.  In  1812  he 
performed  a journey  up  the  Nile,  almost  to  Dongola,  and 
afterwards,  in  the  character  of  a poor  trader  and  a Turk  of 
Syria,  proceeded  through  the  deserts  of  Nubia  (where  Bruce 
had  travelled  before  him),  under  great  hardships,  to  Berbera 
and  Shendy,  as  far  as  Suakin  on  the  Red  Sea,  whence  he  pro- 
ceeded through  Jidda  to  Mecca.  He  was  so  well  initiated 
into  the  knowledge  of  the  language  and  manners  of  the  Ara- 
bians, that  when  a doubt  arose  concerning  his  Islamism,  he 
was,  after  having  passed  an  examination  in  the  theoretical  and 
practical  parts  of  the  Mahometan  faith,  acknowledged  by 
two  learned  jurists  as  being  not  only  a very  faithful,  but  a 
very  learned  Mussulman.  In  1815  he  returned  to  Cairo,  and 
afterwards  visited  Sinai.  Just  before  the  arrival  of  a long- 
expected  caravan  for  Fezzan,  which  he  intended  to  join  with 
the  view  of  exploring  the  source  of  the  Niger,  he  died  at  Cairo, 
April  15,  1817.  The  Mahometans  performed  his  obsequies 
with  the  greatest  splendor.  He  had  previously  sent  home  all . 
his  journals.  His  last  thoughts  were  devoted  to  his  mother. 
He  was  the  first  modern  traveller  who  succeeded  in  penetrating 
to  Shendy  in  the  interior  of  Soudan,  the  Meroe  of  antiquity 
(still,  as  it  was  three  thousand  years  ago,  the  depot  of  trade  for 
Eastern  Africa),  and  in  furnishing  exact  information  of  the 
slave-trade  in  that  quarter.  He  found  articles  of  European 
fabric,  such  as  the  Zellingen  sword-blades,  at  the  great  fair  of 
Shendy.  His  travels  in  Nubia  were  published  by  the  African 
Association  in  1819,  and  there  was  included  an  account  of  his 
researches  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  In  1822  his  Travels  in 
Syria  were  published,  and  in  1829  his  travels  in  Arabia.  In 
1830  another  volume  from  his  papers  appeared,  entitled  “ Man- 
ners and  Customs  of  the  Egyptians.” 

John  Campbell  was  born  in  Edinburgh,  in  1766,  and  became 
a Christian  minister  in  London.  He  was  an  eminently  good 
and  useful  man,  and  earnestly  interested  in  missionary  enter- 
prises. His  travels  in  South  Africa  were  undertaken  at  the  in- 
stance of  the  London  Missionary  Society.  His  qualifications 
were  his  strong  common-sense,  and  his  genuine  interesv  in  the 
welfare  of  his  fellow-men.  He  passed  through  the  localities 
which  he  visited  with  the  open  eyes  of  an  intelligent  observer, 


48  NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS. 


adding  to  our  geography  and  our  knowledge  of  natural  his- 
tory, while  the  suavity  of  his  manners  and  his  tact  made  him 
many  friends  among  the  chiefs  and  the  people,  lie  had  great, 
influence  with  the  noted  Africaner,  and  it  was  he  who  ar- 
ranged for  Moffat’s  mission  to  the  Kuruman. 

James  Kingston  Tuckey  was  born  in  1778,  at  Greenliill,  in 
the  county  of  Cork,  Ireland.  He  entered  the  navy  at  an  early 
age,  went  to  India  in  1794,  was  employed  in  surveying  the 
coast  of  New  South  Wales,  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  French 
in  1805,  and  remained  in  captivity  till  1814.  lie  was  then 
selected  to  command  the  expedition  for  exploring  the  River 
Congo,  and  died  in  Africa,  in  1816.  He  was  the  author  of 
“Maritime  Geography  and  Statistics,”  in  four  volumes,  written 
' ’ i • • • ' ratives  of  his  voyages  to 


shire,  Scotland,  in  1788.  After  some  elementary  instruction  in 
practical  mathematics,  he  was  bound  apprentice,  at  the  age 
of  thirteen,  to  the  owner  of  a vessel  trading  between  Liver- 
pool and  New  York,  and  made  several  voyages.  He  was 
then  impressed  into  the  royal  navy,  and,  becoming  midship- 
man, served  on  the  American  lakes  in  1815-16,  and  received  a 
commission  of  lieutenant.  Having  returned  to  Scotland,  he 
became  acquainted  with  Dr.  Ondncy,  who  was  about  to  embark 
for  Africa,  and  requested  permission  to  accompany  him.  The 
expedition,  consisting  of  Clapperton,  Denham,  and  Oudney, 
after  several  excursions  by  its  individual  members,  started  from 
Murzook  in  November,  1822,  and  arrived  at  Lake  Tsad  (or 
Chad)  oil  the  4th  of  the  following  February,  a distance  of  eight 
hundred  miles.  Six  days  afterwards  Clapperton  set  out  with 
Dr.  Oudney  on  an  expedition  to  Soccatoo,  the  capital  of  Houssa. 
Oudney  died  on  the  way.  Clapperton  was  not  permitted 
to  pursue  his  journey  to  the  full  extent  of  his  purpose,  and  re- 
turned to  England  in  1825.  This  joint  expedition  collected 
important  information,  and  enabled  Europeans  to  j udge  more 
accurately  in  respect  to  the  people  of  Inner  Africa.  On  his  re- 
turn to  England,  Clapperton  was  made  captain,  and  imme- 
diately engaged  for  another  expedition  to  the  Bight  of  Benin. 
He  left  Badagry  in  December,  1825,  accompanied  by  Captain 
Pearce  and  Doctor  Morrison,  who  both  perished  a short  time 
after  leaving  the  coast.  Clapperton  went  on,  accompanied 
only  by  his  faithful  servant  Lander.  At  Katunga  he  was 
within  thirty  miles  of  the  Niger,  but  was  not  permitted  to  visit 
it.  Continuing  his  journey  north,  he  reached  Kano,  and  then 


rn  in  Annan,  Dumfries- 


NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRA  VELLERS.  49 


groceedcd  westward  to  Soccatoo,  the  residence  of  his  old  friend 
ello.  Bello  refused  to  allow  him  to  proceed  to  Bornu,  and 
detained  him  for  a length  of  time  in  his  capital.  This  deten- 
tion seems  to  have  arisen  from  the  fact  that  a war  was  at  the 
time  being  carried  on  between  Bello  and  the  Sheikh  of  Bornu. 
There  were  also  intrigues  by  the  Pacha  of  Tripoli,  who  insinu- 
ated that  the  English  intended  the  conquest  of  Africa,  as  they 
had  already  conquered  India.  Clapperton  was  grievously  dis- 
appointed ; he  became  depressed  in  spirits,  and  died  of  dysen- 
tery on  the  13th  of  April,  1827,  at  Chungary,  a village  four 
miles  from  Soccatoo. 

Lieutenant-Colonel  Dixon  Denham  was  born  in  London,  in 
1786.  After  finishing  his  education  he  was  placed  with  a 
solicitor,  but  in  1811  entered  the  army,  and  served  in  the 
Peninsular  campaigns.  In  1823,  he  was  engaged  with  Captain 
Clapperton  and  Doctor  Oudney  in  exploring  the  central  re- 
gions of  Africa.  His  courage,  address,  firmness,  perseverance, 
and  moderation,  his  bold,  frank,  energetic  disposition,  and  his 
conciliating  manners,  peculiarly  fitted  him  for  such  an  under- 
taking ; and  it  was  mainly  owing  to  his  activity  and  firmness 
that  the  expedition  obtained  the  permission  of  the  Sultan  of 
Fezzan  to  cross  the  desert  to  Lake  Tsad.  Leaving  his  com- 
panions at  Kuka  to  recruit  their  health,  Denham  explored  the 
region  around  the  lake,  and  afterwards  joined  an  Arab  expe- 
dition against  the  natives  to  the  southward.  In  a disastrous 
fight,  he  was  wounded,  and  only  found  his  way  back  to  Kuka 
after  great  perils  and  suffering.  He  afterward  continued  his 
exploration  of  the  interior,  and  returned  to  England  with 
Clapperton  in  1825.  The  next  year  he  published  his  carefully 
written  “ Narrative  of  Travels  and  Discoveries  in  Northern  and 
Central  Africa,  in  the  years  1822,  1823,  and  1824.”  He  went 
to  Sierra  Leone,  in  1826,  as  superintendent  of  the  liberated 
Africans,  and  in  1828  was  appointed  lieutenant-governor  of  the 
colony.  On  the  9th  of  June  of  the  same  year  he  died  of  fever, 
after  an  illness  of  a few  days. 

Richard  Lander,  the  explorer  of  the  course  of  the  Niger, 
was  at  first  the  servant  of  Captain  Clapperton,  whom  he  ac- 
companied in  his  second  expedition  into  the  interior  of  Africa. 
He  started  from  the  Bight  of  Benin  with  his  master,  after 
whose  death  at  Soccatoo  (April  13,  1827)  he  returned  to  the 
coast.  His  journal  is  published  with  Clapperton’s.  After  his 
return  to  England  he  submitted  to  the  government  a plan  for 
exploring  the  course  of  the  Niger,  which  was  adopted.  Ac- 
companied by  his  younger  brother  John  he  set  out  from  Bada- 
4 


50  NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS. 


gry,  in  1830,  intending  to  reach  Lake  Tsad.  They  encountered 
many  dangers,  and  were  finally  taken  prisoners  at  Eboc  ; and 
only  after  the  promise  of  a high  ransom  succeeded  in  getting 
arrangements  made  for  conveying  them  to  the  sea.  This  they 
reached  by  the  Niger ; and  thus  was  solved  one  of  the  greatest 
problems  in  African  geography.  This  important  discovery, 
opening  a water  communication  into  the  interior  of  Africa, 
made  a great  impression  upon  the  mercantile  world ; and  soon 
after  the  brothers  arrived  in  England  an  association  was 
formed  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a settlement  upon  the 
Upper  Niger.  But  the  expedition  fitted  out  for  this  purpose 
unfortunately  proved  a failure  ; and  the  Landers,  together  with 
nearly  all  who  joined  it,  fell  victims  either  to  the  unhealthi- 
ness of  the  climate,  or  in  combats  with  the  natives.  Richard 
died  on  February  2d,  1834,  at  Fernando  Po,  from  the  wounds 
which  he  had  received.  The  British  government  granted  a 
pension  of  £70  a year  to  his  widow,  and  of  £50  a year  to  his 
infant  daughter. 

George  Francis  Lyon  was  a native  of  Chichester,  England, 
and  was  educated  at  Dr.  Burney’s  naval  academy  at  Gosport. 
After  having  served  with  distinction  for  some  years  in  the 
navy,  he  obtained  an  appointment  under  government  for  ex- 
ploring the  interior  of  Africa.  He  was  accompanied  by  Mr. 
Joseph  Ritchie,  a young  man  of  great  attainments  and  much 
promise  ; he  was  a native  of  Otley,  in  Yorkshire,  and  died  of 
fever  at  Murzook,  on  the  19th  of  November,  1819.  Lyon  con- 
tinued his  explorations  alone,  after  having  lost  his  companion, 
suffering  many  hardships  and  much  illness.  The  journeys  of 
these  travellers  confirmed  previous  discoveries,  but  added  to 
them  little  that  was  new.  In  1821,  Captain  Lyon  published 
his  journal,  “ A Narrative  of  Travels  in  Northern  Africa,  ac- 
companied by  Geographical  Notices  of  Soudan,  and  of  the 
Course  of  the  Niger.”  Captain  Lyon,  returning  to  his  own 
proper  profession,  had  command  of  one  of  the  ships  in  the  ex- 
pedition to  the  Northern  Seas,  under  Captain  Parry,  in  1821- 
’23.  lie  died  at  sea  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-seven. 

Alexander  Gordon  Laing  was  born  at  Edinburgh,  Scot- 
land, in  1794,  and  was  educated  at  the  university  of  that  city. 
He  obtained  an  ensigncy  in  the  York  Light  Infantry,  which 
regiment  he  joined  at  once  at  Antigua.  Two  years  afterwards 
he  was  promoted  to  a lieutenancy  in  the  same  corps,  which  he 
held  till  the  regiment  was  reduced,  and  he  was  placed  upon 
half-pay.  After  various  changes,  inasmuch  as  he  always  pre- 
ferred active  service,  he  was  sent  in  1,822,  by  Sir  Charles 


NATIVE  VILLAGE  ON  THE  NIGER. 


NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS.  51 


M’Carthy,  on  an  embassy  to  Gambia  and  the  Man  dingo  coun- 
try, to  ascertain  the  political  state  of  those  districts,  the  dispo- 
sition of  the  inhabitants  to  trade,  and  their  sentiments  in  regard 
to  the  abolition  of  the  slave-trade.  lie  was  thus  led  to  take  a 
deeper  interest  than  before  in  Africa  and  its  people.  lie  ex- 
ecuted his  mission  to  the  satisfaction  of  those  who  had  ap- 
pointed him,  and  was  afterwards  sent  on  an  embass}7  for  the 
purpose  of  procuring  the  liberation  of  a chief  in  friendly  re- 
lations with  the  British,  who  was  held  a prisoner  by  Yarradec, 
a warrior  of  the  king  of  Soolima.  On  arriving  at  the  camp  of 
the  Soolima  arm}7,  lie  was  informed  that  Sannassec  had  been 
set  at  liberty7”,  after  his  town  had  been  burnt,  and  that  his  life 
had  been  spared  only  from  the  fear  of  offending  the  British 
governor.  While  upon  this  mission  he  had  observed  that  many 
of  the  men  who  accompanied  the  Soolima  army  possessed  con- 
siderable quantities  of  gold ; and  having  learned  that  ivory 
abounded  in  Soolima,  he  suggested  to  the  governor  the  advan- 
tages which  would  result  to  the  colony  from  the  opening  up  of 
intercourse  with  these  people,  intimating  his  opinion  that  the 
effort  would  not  be  attended  with  much  hazard  or  expense,  ami 
that  a great  object  would  be  attained  in  the  knowledge  of 
many  countries  to  the  eastward  of  the  colony,  of  which,  like 
that  of  the  Soolimas,  little  was  known  besides  the  name.  This 
suggestion  was  submitted  to  the  council,  who  approved  of  the 
undertaking,  and  left  it  to  Laing’s  own  judgment  to  carry  out 
his  plan.  His  third  mission,  npon  which  he  started  from 
Sierra  Leone  on  the  16th  of  April,  1822,  led  him  to  penetrate 
through  a far  more  extensive  tract  of  country  than  before, 
much  of  it  previously  unexplored.  During  his  absence  he  was 
promoted  to  the  rank  of  captain.  It  was  immediately  after  his 
return  that  he  was  ordered  to  join  his  regiment  on  the  Gold 
Coast,  where  he  wras  employed  in  the  command  of  a consider- 
able native  force  on  the  frontier  of  the  Ashantee  country,  and 
was  frequently  engaged  with  detachments  of  the  Ashantee 
army.  On  the  death  of  Sir  Charles  M’Carthy,  in  1824,  Cap- 
tain Laing  was  sent  to  England  to  acquaint  the  government 
with  the  state  of  the  command  in  Africa.  lie  obtained  a short 
leave  of  absence,  and  revisited  Scotland,  and  returning  to  Lon- 
don in  October,  1824,  an  opportunity  presented  itself,  which  he 
had  long  desired,  of  proceeding,  under  the  auspices  ol  govern- 
ment, on  an  expedition  to  discover  the  termination  and  course 
of  the  Niger.  He  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  major,  and  left 
London  on  that  enterprise  early  in  February,  1825,  intending  to 
leave  Tripoli  for  Timbuctoo  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  At 


52 


NOTICES  OF  EARLIER  AFRICAN  TRAVELLERS. 


Tripoli  he  married  the  daughter  of  the  British  consul  at  that 
place,  and  two  days  afterwards  proceeded  on  his  mission.  On 
the  18th  of  August,  1826,  he  reached  Timbuctoo.  On  the  21st 
of  September,  lie  wrote  a short  letter  to  his  wife  and  her  father 
from  that  place,  but  it  was  brought  to  them  only  after  his  de- 
cease. It  had  been  left  behind  him  when  he  started  from 
Timbuctoo  for  Sego,  with  instructions  that  it  should  be  for- 
warded to  its  destination.  Along  with  it  was  brought  a docu- 
ment in  Arabic,  in  which  Sultan  Ahmad,  the  sovereign  of 
those  countries,  instructed  Osman,  his  lieutenant-governor,  to 
prevent  the  further  progress  of  the  traveller.  Osman  was 
obliged  to  obey  his  instructions.  lie  therefore  engaged  a 
skeikh  of  the  Arabs  of  the  Desert,  named  Barbooshi,  to  go  out 
with  the  Christian,  and  protect  him  as  far  as  the  town  of  Ar- 
wan.  The  sheikh  accordingly  went  with  him  from  Timbuctoo, 
but  on  arriving  at  his  own  residence  he  treacherously  murdered 
him,  and  took  possession  of  all  his  property.  It  is  believed  by 
many,  however,  that  Laing’s  own  confidential  attendant  was  the 
murderer.  But,  in  either  case,  thus  perished,  in  the  full  vigor 
of  manhood,  this  brave  and  enterprising  traveller. 


CHAPTER  IY. 


RECENT  EXPLORATIONS. 

Great  additions  have  been  made  within  the  last  twenty-five 
years  to  our  knowledge  of  Africa;  but  our  information  re- 
specting that  vast  region  still  lacks  the  fulness  and  precision  of 
that  which  we  possess  in  regard  to  other  lands.  The  myste- 
rious interior  of  the  continent  has,  however,  been  penetrated  at 
numerous  points,  and  the  comparison  of  any  good  recent  map 
of  this  portion  of  the  world  with  one  of  older  date  at  once 
< shows  the  extent  and  the  importance  of  the  results  of  the 
travels  of  recent  explorers.  At  the  same  time,  it  shows  how 
much  still  remains  to  the  efforts  of  the  time  which  is  to 
come. 

The  great  rivers  are  connecting  links  between  the  journeys 
of  individual  explorers,  and  three  among  them  have  served, 
especially,  to  guide  the  course  of  modern  discovery — the  Nile, 
the  Niger,  ana  the  Zambesi.  A brief  summary  of  what  was 
accomplished  in  the  way  of  adding  to  our  knowledge  of  these 
streams  will  be‘a  fitting  preliminary  to  our  outlines  of  the  sepa- 
rate expeditions. 

The  Nile  has  long  been  a problem  in  African  geography. 
Bruce  visited  the  sources  of  the  Blue  Nile,  or  Bahr-el-Azrek,  in 
1770,  a Portuguese  traveller  having  anticipated  him  in  the  en- 
terprise about  a century  and  a half.  But  the  discoveries  of 
the  earlier  traveller  had  in  great  part  been  lost.  The  source 
of  the  White  Nile,  Balir-el-Abiad,  remained  a subject  of  in- 
quiry. This  was  beyond  doubt  the  longer  arm  of  the  river. 
At  the  instance  of  the  Pasha  of  Egypt,  efforts  were  made  tow- 
ards discovery  in  1839,  and  again  in  1841.  In  the  former  of 
those  years,  the  Egyptian  expedition  ascended  the  river  to  a 
point  stated  as  within  3°  35'  of  the  equator.  This  was  subse- 
quently corrected  by  M.  d’Arnaud,  who  accompanied  the  expe- 
dition of  1841,  to  iat.  6°  35'  N.  Missionary  labors  and  com- 
mercial enterprise  had  meanwhile  extended  the  range  of 
inquiry  in  this  region.  The  Roman  Catholic  missionaries 
established  at  Gondokoro  (lat.  4°  50')  in  1853-9  had  examined 
the  river  up  to  lat.  3°  N. ; and  European  merchants,  engaged 


54 


RECENT  EXPLORATIONS. 


in  the  ivory  trade,  had  established  depots  lying  as  far  to  the 
southward.  But  beyond  the  third  paralled  of  N.  lat.  the  maps 
remained  a blank. 

The  late  Dr.  Beke  was  among  the  first  to  suggest  the  eastern 
coast,  within  a few  degrees  of  the  equator,  as  the  locality  which 
might  be  most  advantageously  explored  with  a view  to  the  deter- 
mination of  the  limit  of  the  Nile  basin,  and  of  ultimately  reach- 
ing the  sources  themselves.  There  were  several  causes  contribu- 
ting to  the  direction  of  attention  to  that  quarter.  The  Church 
Missionary  Society  had  fixed  a mission  at  Mombas,  or  the  neigh- 
borhood (lat.  4°  S.) ; the  missionaries  came  into  intercourse 
with  the  numerous  Arab  traders  frequenting  Mombas  and 
other  ports  on  that  line  of  coast,  and  received  from  them  accounts 
of  a great  lake  situated  at  some  distance  in  the  interior.  Mr. 
Rebmann  and  Dr.  Krapf,  two  German  missionaries  stationed  at 
Mombas,  therefore  made  various  journeys  in  1847  and  the  two 
succeeding  years,  and  obtained  a knowledge  of  different  dis- 
tricts lying  between  the  parallels  of  3°  and  5°  S.,  extending 
inland  to  a direct  distance  of  probably  two  hundred  miles  from 
the  Indian  Ocean.  They  saw  the  mountain  Kilimanjaro,  the 
summit  of  which  was  covered  with  snow,  its  altitude  being 
hence  concluded  to  be  not  less  than  twenty  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  There  were  other  and  perhaps  loft- 
ier mountains  recognized  as  occurring  within  the  same  region, 
particularly  one  to  which  the  name  of  Kenia  is  given,  to  the 
northwards  of  Kilimanjaro.  The  existence  of  snow-clad  moun- 
tains in  such  near  proximity  to  the  equator  has  excited  consid- 
erable interest.  These  observations  have  been  confirmed  by 
subsequent  travellers,  and  particularly  by  Baron  von  Decken 
(1860-1),  a native  of  Hanover,  who,  starting  from  Mombas  and 
proceeding  thence  southwards  along  the  coast  to  Wanga,  struck 
from  thence  into  the  interior,  and,  crossing  the  Ugono  and  Arus- 
cha  ranges  (the  latter  four  thousand  feet  high),  reached  the 
loftier  region  to  which  Kilimanjaro  belongs.  The  Baron  made 
two  ascents  of  Kilimanjaro,  and  upon  one  of  these  occasions 
reached  the  height  of  thirteen  thousand  nine  hundred  feet. 
At  the  height  of  eleven  thousand  feet,  snow,  mixed  with  rain, 
appeared  to  have  fallen  during  the  night,  and  to  have  melted 
with  the  morning  sun,  up  to  an  elevation  of  probably  seven- 
teen thousand  feet.  Baron  von  Decken’s  triangulations  give 
an  altitude  of  twenty  thousand  and  sixty-five  feet,  as  the  height 
of  the  main  peak  of  Kilimanjaro. 

The  intelligence  gained  by  the  missionaries  respecting  great 
lakes  in  the  interior  comfirmed  conclusions  which  had  already 


RECENT  EXPLORATIONS. 


55 


been  arrived  at  by  geographers,  and  therefore  naturally  excited 
much  interest.  Captain  Burton — an  officer  of  the  Indian 
army,  and  already  familiar  with  Indian  travel  from  the  expe- 
rience of  a journey  in  1854-’5  to  the  kingdom  of  Harar,  lying 
inland  from  the  upper  extremity  of  the  Gulf  of  Aden — there- 
fore proposed  to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  a project  for 
opening  up  the  lake  regions  of  Interior  Africa  to  the  south  of 
the  equator.  That  learned  body  approved  of  his  scheme,  which 
the  British  government  sanctioned,  and  in  favor  of  which  it 
made  a pecuniary  grant.  Captain  Burton  was  accompanied 
by  Captain  Speke,  a fellow-officer  of  the  Indian  army,  and  his 
companion  at  Berbera,  on  the  coast  of  the  Somauli  country,  in 
1854.  Zanzibar,  off  the  coast  of  Eastern  Africa,  was  the  point 
of  their  departure,  at  the  end  of  June,  1857.  The  details  of 
their  expedition  will  be  found  in  subsequent  pages. 

This  journey  of  Burton  and  Speke  in  1857-9  led  to  the  later 
expedition  of  Speke  and  Grant  in  1861-2.  Immediately  on  his 
discovery  of  the  N’yanza  Lake,  a body  of  fresh  water,  found 
within  a few  degrees  south  of  the  equator,  and  at  an  elevation 
of  between  three  thousand  and  four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea, 
Speke  came  to  the  conclusion  that  this  would  prove  the  head 
water  of  the  Nile.  The  Geographical  Society  aided  him  in  the 
equipment  of  a new  expedition  for  the  purpose  of  solving  the 
problem.  He  was  accompanied  by  Captain  Grant,  another  offi- 
cer of  the  Bengal  army.  They  left  England  in  1860,  and 
started  from  Zanzibar  for  the  interior  in  October  of  the  same 
year,  pursuing  the  route  taken  by  the  former  expedition  as  far 
as  Unyanyembe.  Being  much  delayed  on  their  journey  by 
many  untoward  occurrences,  they  were  unable  to  leave  Kazeh 
in  Unyanyembe  until  September,  1861.  From  this  point  they 
took  a new  route  to  the  north-west,  passing  through  the  dis- 
tricts of  Uzinza  and  Karagire,  the  latter  a highland  region,  and 
crossing  the  Kitangule  River,  went  on  to  Mashonde  (lat.  50'  S.) 
in  the  upper  parts  of  the  Uganda  country.  Here,  on  this  jour- 
ney, was  obtained  the  first  view  of  the  N’yanza.  This  is  more 
than  a hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  a direct  line  from  the  point 
at  which  Captain  Speke  had  previously  reached  the  lake. 
Speke  prefers  to  call  this  great  body  of  water — considerably 
exceeding  in  proportions  those  of  Lake  Superior — by  the  name 
of  Victoria  N’yauza.  The  travellers  proceeded  round  the  north- 
west, and  part  of  the  north  coast  of  the  lake,  through  a country 
composed  of  low  sandstone  hills,  streaked  by  small  streams — 
the  effect  of  almost  constant  rains — and  grown  over  w ith  gi- 
gantic grass,  except  in  places  which  are  under  cultivation. 


56 


REGENT  EXPLORATIONS. 


North  of  the  equator  the  landscape  presented  the  same  fea- 
tures, but  with  an  increase  of  beauty.  The  Mwcranga  and  the 
Luajerri,  two  rivers  of  moderate  dimensions,  flowing  to  the 
north,  were  crossed,  and  farther  to  the  east  the  Nile  itself, 
described  as  issuing  from  the  lake  by  a passage  over  rocks  of  an 
igneous  character,  with  a descent  of  twelve  feet  immediately 
below,  forming  what  the  explorer  calls  the  “ Ripon  Falls.”  At 
this  point  the  coast-line  of  the  lake  was  abandoned,  and  the 
stream  of  the  river  followed  downward  to  the  Karuma  Falls 
(lat.  2°  20'  N.),  the  course  of  it  lying  at  first  through  sandstone 
hills,  among  which  it  rushes  with  great  force,  afterwards  pass- 
ing over  long  flats,  where  it  has  the  aspect  of  a lake  rather 
than  a river.  The  prevalence  of  wars  prevented  the  continu- 
ance of  the  track  along  the  course  of  the  stream  immediately 
below  the  Karuma  Falls,  and  therefore  the  river  was  left  for 
a time  ; but  Speke,  continuing  his  route  to  the  north-west, 
again  came  upon  it  in  the  Madi  country  (lat.  3°  40'  N. ),  where 
“ it  still  bore  the  unmistakable  character  of  the  Nile — long 
flats,  long  rapids.”  From  this  point  the  Nile  flows  northwards, 
and  a little  below  receives  a considerable  affluent,  the  Asua 
River,  and  continues  the  same  general  course.  At  Gondokoro 
(lat.  4°  50'  N.)  the  expedition  met  Sir  Samuel  Baker.  They 
were  now  upon  known  ground.  They  had  reached  Gondokoro 
in  February,  1863,  more  than  twenty-eight  months  after  having 
left  Zanzibar. 

Mr.  Petherick,  who  had  been  despatched  from  England  with 
well-appointed  means  to  ascend  the  Nile  valley,  in  order  to  aid 
in  the  accomplishment  of  the  main  purpose  of  the  expedition, 
did  not  arrive  at  Gondokoro  till  after  Speke  and  Grant  had  also 
reached  that  point  in  their  return  course.  He  therefore  accom- 
plished nothing  at  this  time  in  the  way  of  geographical  discov- 
ery. On  a previous  occasion  he  had  partially  examined  the 
Bahr-el-Ghazal,  a western  affluent  of  the  Nile,  joining  it  about 
lat.  9°  10'  N.,  and  had  by  that  means  added  to  our  knowledge 
of  the  river.  Madame  Tinn4  and  her  daughter,  accompanied 
by  Dr.  ITeuglin,  a German  savant,  undertook  the  examination 
of  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  basin,  at  a later  date,  but  they  accom- 
plished nothing.  Their  attempt  alone  is  worthy  of  record. 

The  results  of  Captain  Speke’s  expedition,  though  of  great 
value  to  geography,  even  regarding  his  later  travels,  are  not 
final  in  respect  to  the  sources  of  the  Nile.  Neither  the  Victoria 
nor  the  Albert  N’yanza  can  claim  to  be  the  head  of  that  great 
river.  We  shall  have  occasion  hereafter  to  refer  in  detail 
to  Captain  Speke’s  explorations. 


RECENT  EXPLORATIONS. 


57 


'The  chapters  on  Stanley  and  Livingstone,  and  Livingstone’s 
last  journey,  show  that  Dr.  Livingstone  believed  himself  to  be 
on  the  upper  course  of  the  Nile,  in  his  exploration  of  the 
Luapula  and  Lualaba  rivers,  and  consequently  that  its  sources 
lie  much  farther  south  than  has  been  hitherto  supposed.  But 
Schweinfurtli’s  recent  journey  carried  him  to  the  very  region 
whence  the  Lualaba  must  come,  if  it  connects  with  the  Nile 
either  through  the  Albert  N’yanza  or  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Bahr-el-Ghazal,  and  he  found  all  the  streams  flowing  westward, 
and  probably  into  the  Shary.  This  latter  traveller  discovered 
the  very  springs  from  which  the  Dyoor,  which  he  believes 
(apparently  with  good  reason)  to  be  the  main  stream  of  the 
Bahr-el-Ghazal,  issues.  The  other  chief  affluents  come  from 
the  north-west. 

To  the  southward  the  course  of  recent  African  discovery 
has  been  chiefly  in  connection  with  the  valley  of  the  river 
Zambesi  and  the  affluents  to  its  extensive  basin.  The  results 
accomplished  in  this  direction  are  mainly  due  to  the  energy  of 
Dr.  Livingstone,  and  an  account  of  his  journeys  will  be  given 
more  at  length. 

For  nearly  three-quarters  of  a century,  the  countries  watered 
by  the  Niger  have  offered  an  inviting  fleld  for  African  travel 
and  discovery.  Particulars  have  already  been  stated  in  respect 
to  earlier  efforts.  The  work  of  the  Landers  has  also  been 
spoken  of.  Laird  and  Oldfield,  in  1833,  ascended  the  river,  ac- 
companied by  Mr.  William  Allen,  who  executed  a survey  of  it 
from  the  sea  up  to  some  distance  above  the  point  where  it  is 
joined  on  the  eastern  bank  by  the  great  stream  formerly  known 
as  Chadda,  but  since  called  Benue.  In  later  years  there  have 
been  repeated  ascents  of  the  Lower  Niger,  and  also  of  the 
stream  known  as  Old  Calabar.  The  Niger  expedition  of  1841, 
fitted  out  by  the  British  government  for  philanthropic  pur- 
poses, with  a view  to  the  suppression  of  the  slave-trade,  proved 
an  utter  failure,  and  was  also  attended  by  great  loss  of  life.  But 
the  feasibility  of  navigating  the  Lower  Niger  and  Benue  rivers 
has  been  fully  demonstrated  by  Dr.  Baikie,  who,  in  1854,  took 
the  steamer  Pleiad  up  the  stream  to  the  point  of  conjunc- 
tion with  the  Benu6,  and  ascended  the  latter  river  to  a dis- 
tance of  more  than  three  hundred  miles  above  that  point,  or 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  beyond  the  place  of  stopping 
which  was  reached  by  Allen  and  Oldfield  in  1833.  Dr.  Bai- 
kie’s  successful  conduct  of  this  enterprise  induced  the  Brit- 
ish government  to  equip  a new  expedition,  with  a view  to 
the  forming  of  a station,  alike  for  commercial  purposes  and 


58 


REGENT  EXPLORATIONS. 


as  a centre  of  missionary  operations,  at  some  point  within 
the  basins  of  the  Lower  Niger  and  Benue.  Dr.  Baikie  left 
England  in  charge  of  this  expedition  in  1857,  and,  during 
the  seven  succeeding  years,  was  engaged  in  various  investiga- 
tions within  the  territory  to  which  he  had  been  specially  com- 
missioned, as  well  as  in  journeys  to  the  kingdom  of  Kano  and 
the  high  grounds  dividing  the  basin  of  the  Niger  from  that  of 
Lake  Tsad.  He  died  on  his  return  to  England,  in  1864,  and 
much  of  the  results  of  his  expedition  perished  with  him. 

The  voyage  of  the  Pleiad  was  supplementary  in  some  meas- 
ure to  the  purposes  of  an  exploration  of  Central  Africa  by 
overland  journey  through  the  desert,  conducted  at  the  expense 
of  the  British  government  by  Mr.  Richardson,  Dr.  Barth,  and 
Mr.  Overweg.  Of  this  expedition  details  are  furnished  in  a 
later  chapter. 

Captain  Tuckey,  as  we  have  already  seen,  commanded  an 
English  expedition  for  exploring  the  Congo  River,  which  made 
the  attempt  in  1816,  without  accomplishing  much  in  the  way  of 
discovery.  Captain  Bedingfield  organized  a fresh  expedition  in 
1864.  There  was  no  difficulty  in  ascending  the  river  for  up- 
wards of  one  hundred  miles ; but  at  that  point  there  are  for- 
midable rapids  through  which  the  stream  rushes  between  high 
rocks.  These  form  a great  impediment  to  navigation  ; but 
beyond  them,  for  the  180  miles  of  its  course  which  have  been 
explored,  the  Congo  is  again  a noble  stream,  maintaining  a 
width  of  from  one  to  five  miles.  Its  source  is  unknown,  but 
the  German  geographer  Petermann  regards  it  as  identical  with 
Livingstone’s  Lualaba,  and  hence  as  connected  with  the  vast 
lacustrine  system  of  the  equatorial  region.  Further  explora- 
tions are  now  (October,  1874)  in  progress,  which  it  is  to  be 
hoped  will  settle  this  latter  question. 

Carl  Johann  Andersson,  a Swedish  naturalist  and  traveller, 
has  added  considerably  to  our  knowledge  of  Africa  below  the 
parallel  of  Lake  Ngami.  In  1850  he  joined  Francis  Galton 
in  a journey  from  Whale  Bay  to  the  countries  of  the  Damaras 
and  the  Ovambas.  He  continued  his  explorations  alone  in 
1853-4,  and  on  his  arrival  in  England,  in  1855,  published 
“Lake  Ngami;  or,  Explorations  and  Discoveries  during  Four 
Years’  Wanderings  in  the  Wilds  of  South-western  Africa.” 
Returning  to  Africa  in  1856,  he  made  a second  journey  to 
Lake  Ngami,  and  found  his  way  up  to  the  Okavango  River, 
through  the  territory  of  the  Ovambo,  one  of  the  principal 
red  tribes  of  the  Herrevo  land,  which  land  had  never  before 
been  visited  by  any  European  except  the’  German  misp ionary 


RECENT  EXPLORATIONS. 


59 


lingo  Halm.  In  18G1  he  published  in  London  an  account  of 
the  Okavango  River.  In  18GG  he  attempted  a third  journey, 
and  penetrated  to  the  Cunene,  but  died  at  Ovaeuambi  ou  the 
way  home. 

The  journeys  of  Ladislaus  Magyar,  a Hungarian  traveller,  made 
in  1849-’53,  have  nearly  succeeded  in  supplying  our  knowl- 
edge of  the  district  lying  between  the  most  northern  point 
reached  by  Andersson,  and  the  route  of  Livingstone  from  the 
valley  of  the  Upper  Zambesi  to  the  western  coast.  Leaving 
Bengncla,  the  most  southern  Portuguese  port,  in  1849,  he  ac- 
companied a native  caravan  to  the  inland  kingdom  of  Bihe, 
where  he  took  up  his  residence  and  married  the  daughter  of 
the  king.  Making  Bihe  his  base  of  operations,  he  made  two 
long  journeys  into  the  interior,  in  one  of  which  he  reached  the 
kingdom  of  Moluwa,  which  he  declares  to  be  the  most  power- 
ful in  Central  Africa.  It  seems  to  be  the  same  as  that  of  Ca- 
zembe  or  Londa.  In  his  other  journey  he  struck  northward  and 
discovered  the  Cunene  River,  which  Andersson  had  barely 
caught  sight  of. 

M.  Paul  dn  Chaillu,  a Franco- American  traveller,  travelled  in 
Africa  for  his  own  pleasure,  in  1859,  within  a tract  of  country 
extending  two  degrees  on  either  side  of  the  equator,  and  adjoin- 
ing the  north  of  the  Gaboon  R»veron  the  west  coast.  He  trav- 
elled nearly  8,000  miles  on  foot,  and  in  the  course  of  his  jour- 
neys shot  and  stuffed  over  two  thousand  birds,  of  which  sixty 
were . previously  unknown,  and  killed  over  1,000  quadrupeds, 
among  which  were  several  gorillas  never  before  hunted  and 
probably  never  before  seen  by  a white  man.  The  history  of 
this  expedition,  published  in  New  York  and  London  (in  18G1) 
under  the  title  of  u Explorations  and  Adventures  in  Equato- 
rial Africa,”  is  a valuable  contribution  to  the  geography,  ethnol- 
ogy, and  zoology  ol  Western  Africa.  Unfortunately  many 
of  his  statements  where  received  with  distrust,  chiefly  because 
they  did  not  accord  with  the  maps  of  Barth  and  Petennann. 
A bitter  controversy  arose  as  to  his  truthfulness,  but  L is  accu- 
racy on  most  controverted  points  has  been  vindicated  by  the 
French  travellers  Servai  and  Griffon  du  Bellay,  who.  in  charge 
of  a government  expedition,  explored  the  Ogowai  River  and 
the  adjacent  country  in  18G2.  Ilis  statements  concerning  the 
Fan  tribe  were  verified  by  Burton. 

In  1861-2,  Captain  Burton  increased  his  manifold  claims  to 
gratitude  on  account  of  African  discovery  by  a careful  exam- 
ination of  some  of  the  smaller  rivers  that  enter  the  Bight  of 
Benin,  and  also  by  the  ascent  of  the  lofty  Cameroon*  Moun- 


60 


RECENT  EXPLORATIONS . 


tain,  a volcano  not  yet  wholly  extinct,  which  lie  identifies  with 
the  Theoa  Ochema  of  Ilanno’s  Peri  pi  ns.  Tlie  highest  point 
of  the  mountain,  according  to  his  observation,  is  upwards  of 
thirteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  elevated 
regions  of  the  Cameroon s are  covered  every  morning,  even  dur- 
ing the  hot  season,  with  a layer  of  hoarfrost,  and  are  well 
suited  for  the  purposes  of  a sanitarium. 

Probably  the  gain  of  modern  travel  in  the  southern  half  of 
Africa  lias  been  more  remarkable  in  regard  to  the  physical 
conformation  of  the  continent  than  in  any  other  particular. 
Instead  of  the  high  plateau-lands  of  which  it  was  long  supposed 
to  consist,  the  interior  appears  to  exhibit  a series  of  watered 
plains,  but  moderately  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
bordered  on  either  hand  by  ranges  of  higher  ground,  through 
openings  between  which  the  waters  of  the  interior  reach  the 
ocean  upon  either  side.  The  numerous  lake  basins,  already 
ascertained  to  exist  within  the  eastern  interior,  to  the  south  of 
the  equator,  constitute  one  of  the  most  important  features  of 
modern  geography,  and  one  that  stands  most  in  contrast  with 
the  popular  conceptions  of  a region  generally  associated  with 
the  in  tensest  conditions  of  heat  and  aridity.  But  much  is  yet 
wanting  to  give  anything  like  an  approach  to  completeness  of 
knowledge  in  regard  to  the  African  Continent. 


CHAPTER  V. 

BARTH,  OVERWEG,  AND  RICHARDSON.— ASHANTEE. 

In  1849  the  British  government  having  determined  to  send 
out  an  expedition  for  the  purpose  of  concluding  commercial 
treaties  with  the  chiefs  of  Northern  Africa  as  far  as  Lake 
Tsad,  and  also  if  possible  to  explore  the  course  of  the  Niger, 
the  command  was  given  to  Mr.  James  Richardson.  At  the  sug- 
gestion of  Petermann,  Dr.  Heinrich  Barth  and  Mr.  Adolf  Over- 
weg  were  invited  to  accompany  the  expedition  for  the  purpose 
of  making  scientific  observations.  Both  Richardson  and  Barth 
had  previously  travelled  in  Africa,  the  latter  haing  made  a jour- 
ney, in  1845,  from  Tangier  in  Morocco  along  the  coast  of  Tunis, 
Algeria,  and  Tripoli,  thence  into  the  interior  as  far  as  Ben- 
ghazi, and  thence  across  the  desert  to  Egypt. 

In  December,  1849,  Dr.  Barth  and  Mr.  Overweg  arrived  at 
Tunis,  and  from  thence  proceeded  to  Tripoli,  from  which  they 
set  forth  on  their  long  and  perilous  expedition.  Barth 
writes : “ It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  24th  of  March, 
1850,  when  Overweg  and  I,  seated  in  solemn  state  upon  our 
camels,  left  the  town  with  our  train,  preceded  by  the  Consul, 
Mr.  Crow,  by  Mr.  Reade,  and  Mr.  Dickson  and  his  family,  of 
all  of  whom  we  took  a hearty  leave  under  the  olive-trees  near 
Kasrel  Haem.’ 99  More  than  five  years  were  to  pass  ere  Dr. 
Barth,  the  only  survivor  of  the  departing  company,  should 
again  clasp  hands  with  civilized  man  under  these  olive-trees. 
They  were  joined  by  Mr.  Richardson  and  his  party  a few 
days  after  they  had  left,  and  proceeded  on  their  journey  through 
corn-fields  and  green  pastures,  succeeded  by  stony  valleys  in 
which  were  many  Roman  remains,  which  indicated  that  in 
that  part  of  the  world  the  universal  conquerors  had  occupied 
important  positions.  They  came  upon  the  ruins  of  a massive 
stronghold,  a gate  with  an  arch  of  remarkably  fine  masonry, 
and  several  sepulchral  monuments, — one  of  them  forty-eight 
feet  high  and  richly  decorated,  all  proving  that  these  deserted 
regions  were  once  inhabited  by  a wealthy  and  highly  civilized 
population.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  these  remains  i9 
a small  building  which  had  evidently  been  used  as  a Christian 


62 


BARTH,  OVERWEG , AND  RICHARDSON. 


church.  Dr.  Barth  believes  it  to  have  belonged  to  a small 
monastery,  but  there  is  no  historical  certainty. 

Between  this  point  and  Murzook,  the  capital  of  Fezzan,  the 
country  is  very  desolate, — stony  ravines  shut  in  by  steep  and 
gloomy-looking  cliffs,  their  dnlness  and  monotony  being  re- 
lieved only  at  long  intervals  by  occasional  clumps  of  palm- 
trees.  Beyond  Murzook  the  way  lies  along  mountain-passes, 
in  which  there  are  many  curious  sculptures  on  the  sandstone 
blocks.  The  scenery,  by  and  by,  becomes  soft  and  beautiful ; 
but  the  habits  of  the  people  are  predatory  and  dangerous  to 
travellers.  The  blacksmith  is  in  high  repute  among  these 
tribes,  and  this  is  not  unnatural,  so  far  as  respects  his  trade ; but 
he  is  generally  the  “ prime  minister  ” of  the  chief.  There  is 
a widely  spread  superstition  to  the  effect  that  certain  magical 
powers  belong  in  some  mysterious  way  to  workers  in  iron  ; and 
in  many  countries,  from  the  earliest  times,  “ the  smith  ” has 
been  invested  with  a character  of  indefinable  dread.  These 
people  seem  to  belong  to  the  Shemitic  branch  of  the  human 
race. 

When  the  travellers  arrived  at  Agades,  in  the  middle  of  the 
Great  Desert,  Dr.  Barth  paid  a visit  to  the  Sultan.  Ilis  dwell- 
ing and  his  appointments  were  homely.  lie  was  not  yet  in- 
stalled. In  a few  days  he  made  a more  regal  appearance, — 
mounted  on  a valuable  horse,  and  wearing  a robe  of  colored 
silk  and  cotton,  over  which  was  a costly  blue  bernous  which 
Dr.  Barth  had  presented,  while  at  his  side  was  a cimetar  with  a 
gold  handle.  The  procession  was  very  long  and  imposing, 
chiefly  on  account  of  the  great  number  of  horsemen  included  in 
it.  Agades  is  built  entirely  of  wood  and  clay,  but  is  neat  and 
cleanly  in  its  appearance.  There  is  in  it  one  very  curious 
building  entirely  constructed  of  clay,  which  was  probably 
designed  for  a watch-tower;  the  base  is  about  thirty  feet 
square,  and  the  height  more  than  ninety  feet,  tapering  to  about 
eight  feet  square  at  the  top.  The  interior  is  apparently  unfin- 
ished ; but  that  part  of  it  is  not  open  to  the  visits  of  any  but 
Mahometans.  Fart  of  it  was  seen,  but  the  greater  part  was 
kept  concealed.  The  clay  of  the  tower  is  kept  together  by  the 
introduction  of  boards  of  the  diim-tree. 

The  travellers,  often  retarded,  went  southwards  towards  the 
more  important  town  of  Kano,  and  in  the  course  of  their  jour- 
ney were  greatly  harassed  by  the  many  predatory  tribes  which 
infest  the  mountain-passes  and  levy  contributions  from  the 
caravans,  much  in  the  manner  of  the  Scottish  Borderers  in  the 
days  of  the  strong  hand  ; at  one  time  Bartb  was  captured  and 


BARTH ; OVER  WE  0 , AiVT)  RICHARDSON. 


63 


very  narrowly  escaped  death  at  their  hands.  Salt  was  the  only 
article  conveyed  by  the  caravan  with  which  they  travelled. 
There  are  two  kinds  of  it, — one  solidified,  and  the  other  in 
loose  grains,  this  latter  being  scarce  and  very  dear.  There  was 
great  merriment  in  the  evening  before  leaving  Agades,  and, 
early  next  day,  the  united  caravan,  an  imposing  cavalcade, 
started  on  its  long  journey,  and  took  its  course  along  the  rocky 
defiles  of  the  valley.  There  was  now  real  travelling  ; but  as 
yet  the  route  presented  nothing  of  the  barrenness  of  the  desert, 
— trees  were  frequent,  and  the  few  villages  which  were  passed 
were  surrounded  with  corn-fields.  In  some  parts  there  were 
reeds,  ten  feet  high,  obstructing  the  progress  of  the  travellers. 
They  say  that  they  had  now  reached  those  fertile  regions  of 
Central  Africa  which  are  not  only  able  to  sustain  their  own 
population,  but  have  material  to  export  to  other  countries. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  villages,  though  pagans  and  mostly 
slaves,  welcomed  the  strangers,  and  provided  abundant  food 
for  the  whole  caravan.  Barth  observed  here  the  peculiar  style 
of  roof  which  seems  to  be  characteristic  of  the  tribes  of  Central 
Africa.  The  huts  are  built  with  stalks  of  the  Indian  corn, 
without  any  other  support,  except  a few  branches  of  the  As- 
clepias  gigantea.  “ In  examining  these  structures  one  cannot 
but  feel  surprised  at  the  great  similarity  which  they  bear  to  the 
huts  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  Latium,  such  as  they  are 
described  by  Vitruvius  and  other  authors,  and  represented  oc- 
casionally on  terra-cotta  utensils ; while  the  name  in  the  Bornu 
or  Kaniiri  language,  4 lcosi,’  bears  a remarkable  resemblance  to 
the  Latin  name  ‘casa,’  however  accidental  it  may  be.”  In 
these  huts  the  supply  of  corn  was  plentiful;  huge  baskets 
made  of  reeds  were  filled  with  it,  and  placed  on  a scaffold  of 
wood  about  two  feet  high  to  protect  them  from  the  mouse  and 
the  ant,  which  are  very  numerous  and  destructive.  On  the 
9th  of  January,  1851,  they  reached  Tagelel,  on  the  southern 
border  of  the  Great  Desert,  and  Mr.  Bi  chard  soil  went  on  by 
the  road  to  Zinder,  a town  lying  to  the  south-east  of  the  caravan 
route,  Dr.  Barth  and  Mr.  Overweg  proceeding  with  the  general 
caravan.  They  passed  numerous  fine  trees, — the  baobab,  the 
tamarind,  and  the  splendid  tulip-tree  among  other  kinds,  with 
flocks  of  pigeons  and  guinea-fowl.  Many  corn-fields  now  al- 
ternated with  cotton  plantations,  and  furnished  proof  of  the 

freat  fertility  and  commercial  importance  of  Central  Africa. 

'here  were  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  and  the  inhabitants  of 
the  villages  seemed  to  have  abundance  and  to  live  in  peace. 
The  picture  which  Dr.  Barth  gives  of  the  first  large  town  he 


64 


BARTH ; OVERWEG,  AND  RICHARDSON. 


visited  in  Kegroland  proper,  Tasawa,  is  very  pleasing.  The 
huts  were  partly  built  of  clay,  and  the  roofs  neatly  thatched 
with  reeds ; the  court-yard  being  fenced  in  with  the  same.  A 
cool  outer  building,  composed  of  reeds  and  lattice-work,  was 
usually  reserved  for  the  reception  of  visitors  and  the  transac- 
tion of  business ; and  the  whole  dwelling  was  shaded  by 
spreading  trees.  In  almost  all  instances  there  were  included 
in  the  scene  groups  of  children,  goats,  fowls,  pigeons,  and, 
where  a little  wealth  had  been  acquired,  a horse  or  a pack-ox. 
The  people  themselves  are  a kind  and  cheerful  race,  enjoying 
to  the  full,  apparently,  the  good  things  around  them. 


BAOBAB  TREE. 


The  next  town  is  Gazawa,  which  has  rude  fortifications  of 
clay.  As  in  the  case  of  the  last  town,  there  is  here  also  a dye- 
ing place,  indigo  being  cultivated  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
nearest  town  southward  is  Katsena,  from  which  the  travellers 
again  set  forth  with  the  salt  caravan  towards  the  long-looked- 
for  city  of  Kano.  The  intervening  country  they  found  to  be 
exceedingly  beautiful,  with  a great  variety  of  herbage  and 
foliage.  There  were  birds  of  many  kinds,  known  and  un- 
known, with  herds  of  milk-white  cattle  scattered  over  the  rich 
pasture-grounds.  The  rather  sparse  population  appeared 
active  and  industrious.  Women,  carrying  on  their  heads  from 
six  to  ten  calabashes,  filled  with  various  articles,  here  joined 


BARTH ; OVKRWEQ , .4  AD  D/C/LdDDSOA. 


65 


the  caravan  ; a troop  of  men,  with  loads  of  indigo  plants  to  be 
prepared  for  dyeing,  met  them  soon  after  as  they  passed  over 
extensive  tobacco-fields  ; while  beehives,  formed  or  thick  hol- 
low log3,  were  fastened  to  the  branches  of  the  colossal  luika- 
trees.  At  length,  through  cultivated  fields,  and  past  popu- 
lous villages,  where  the  preparation  of  indigo  was  carried  on, 
they  came  in'  sight  of  Kano,  and  Barth  entered  the  city  after 
nearly  a year’s  continuous  travel,  on  the  evening  of  the  2d 
of  February,  1851.  His  high  expectations  in  regard  to  the 
city,  known  as  the  great  emporium  of  Central  Negroland,  do 
not  seem  to  have  been  disappointed.  K&no  is  a large  and 
flourishing  town,  “ a little  world  in  itself,  so  different  in  exter- 
nal form  from  all  that  is  seen  in  European  towns,  yet  so  simi- 
lar ” in  many  other  respects.  Dr.  Barth  says  of  it,  there  is — 

“ Here  a row  of  shops,  filled  with  articles  of  native  and  for- 
eign produce,  with  buyers  and  sellers  in  every  variety  of  figure, 
complexion,  and  dress,  yet  all  intent  upon  their  little  gains,  en- 
deavoring to  cheat  each  other ; there  a large  shed  with  sides 
like  a hurdle,  full  of  half-naked,  half-starved  slaves,  torn  from 
their  native  homes,  arranged  like  rows  of  cattle,  and  staring 
desperately  upon  the  buyers,  anxiously  watching  into  whose 
hands  it  might  be  their  destiny  to  fall.  In  another  part  were 
all  the  necessaries  of  life,  the  wealthy  buying  the  more  palata- 
ble things  for  his  table,  the  poor  stopping  and  looking  greedily 
upon  a handful  of  grain.  Here  a rich  governor,  in  silk  and 
gaudy  clothes,  mounted  on  a spirited  and  richly  caparisoned 
horse,  and  followed  by  a host  of  idle  and  insolent  slaves ; 
there  a poor  blind  man  groping  his  way  through  the  multitude, 
and  fearing  at  every  step  to  be  trodden  down.  Here  a yard 
neatly  fenced  with  reeds,  and  a clean,  snug-looking  cottage, 
the  clay  walls  nicely  polished,  a shutter  of  reeds  placed  against 
the  low,  well-rounded  door,  a cool  shade  for  the  daily  house- 
hold work,  a tine  spreading  alleluba-tree  with  its  deep  shadow 
during  the  hottest  hours  of  the  day,  or  a beautiful  gdnda  or  pa- 
paya unfolding  its  large  feather-like  leaves,  or  the  tall  date-tree 
waving  over  the  whole ; the  matron  in  a clean  black  cotton 
gown  wound  round  her  waist,  her  hair  neatly  dressed,  busy 
preparing  the  meal  for  her  absent  husband,  or  spinning  cotton, 
at  the  same  time  urging  her  female  slaves  to  pound  the  corn  ; 
the  children,  naked  and  merry,  playing  about  in  the  yard  or 
chasing  a stubborn  goat;  earthenware  pots  and  wooden  bowls, 
all  cleanly  washed,  standing  in  order.  Farther  on,  a dashing 
Cyprian,  homeless,  childless,  but  affecting  merriment,  gaudily 
ornamented  with  numerous  strings  of  beads  round  her  neck, 


66 


BARTH \ OVER  WHO,  AND  RICHARDSON. 


her  hair  bound  with  a diadem  ; near  her  a diseased  wretch, 
covered  with  ulcers  or  with  elephantiasis.” 

The  people,  moreover,  seemed  to  be  all  emplo)red. 

“ There  is  now,”  continues  Barth,  u a ‘ marina ’ (an  open  ter- 
race of  clay,  with  many  dyeing-pots),  and  the  people  busily  en- 
gaged in  the  various  processes  of  their  handicraft.  Farther  on 
a blacksmith,  busy  with  his  rude  tools,  making  a dagger  which 
will  surprise  by  its  sharpness  those  who  feel  disposed  to  laugh 
at  the  workman’s  implements.  In  another  place  are  men  and 
women  making  use  of  a little-frequented  place  to  hang  up 
along  the  fences  their  cotton  thread  for  weaving.  Here  is  a 
caravan  arrived  from  Genja  with  the  desired  kola-nut,  chewed 
by  all  who  have  4 ten  kurds  ’ to  spare  from  their  necessary 
wants;  or  a caravan  laden  with  natron,  starting  for  Kupe,  or  a 
troop  of  A’sbenawa,  going  off  with  their  salt  for  the  neighbor- 
ing towns,  or  some  Arabs  leading  their  camels,  heavily  laden 
with  the  luxuries  of  the  north  and  east ; and  there  a troop  of 
gaudy,  warlike-looking  horsemen  galloping  towards  the  palace 
of  the  governor,  to  bring  him  the  news  of  a new  inroad  of 
Scrki  Ibram.  Everywhere  human  life  in  its  varied  forms,  the 
most  cheerful  and  the  most  gloomy,  seemed  closely  mixed  to- 
gether ; every  variety  of  natural  form  and  complexion — the 
olive-colored  Arab,  the  dark  Kantiri  with  his  wide  nostrils,  the 
small-featured,  light,  and  slender  Ba-Fellanchi,  the  broad-faced 
Mandingo,  the  stout,  large-boned,  and  masculine-looking  Ndpc 
female,  the  well-proportioned  and  comely  Ba-IIanshe  woman.” 
The  people  are  for  the  most  part  Mohometans,  yet  there  is 
a large  amount  of  paganism  still  existing,  and  rites  really 
pagan  are  performed  in  the  province  of  Kano,  as  well  as  in 
that  of  Katsena.  Captain  Clapperton  estimated  the  population 
at  between  30,000  and  40,000.  Barth  at  about  30,000 ; but 
this  includes  only  the  stationary  population,  for  during  the 
busy  time  of  the  year,  from  January  to  April,  the  influx  of 
strangers  is  so  great,  that  there  are  probably  in  the  place  as 
many  as  50,000.  The  commerce  of  such  a town  must  of  course 
be  considerable.  The  principal  article  is  the  cotton  cloth 
which  is  woven  and  dyed  there.  Of  this  there  are  several 
varieties,  some  of  them  being  mixed  with  silk.  Goods  alto- 
gether of  silk  are  also  manufactured,  the  silk  being  obtained 
from  a worm  which  lives  on  the  tamarind-tree.  There  is  also 
leather-work  produced,  which  is  excellent;  and  shoes,  sandals, 
and  pouches,  of  remarkably  neat  workmanship,  are  largely 
exported.  The  chief  imports  are  the  kola-nut,  which  has  be- 
come to  these  people  as  necessary  as  tea  and  coffee  are  to  us. 


BARTH , OVERWEO , .4  AID  RICHARDSON. 


67 


There  are  also  many  slaves  bought  and  sold.  The  number  of 
these  Barth  found  it  difficult  to  estimate,  but  he  calculates  that 
at  the  time  of  his  visit  more  than  five  thousand  annually  were 
imported.  There  must,  however,  be  a much  larger  number,  as 
the  supply  for  the  domestic  use  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  prov- 
ince and  of  the  adjoining  districts  is  not  included  in  this  esti- 
mate. Natron,  salt,  and  European  produce  of  various  kinds 
also  find  a ready  market  at  Kano ; but  calicoes  and  muslins  are 
almost  the  only  English  or  American  articles.  Of  the  pre- 
cious metals  there  is  no  great  abundance.  Gold  is  the  general 
standard  of  value,  but  it  is  not  used  as  currency, — shells  (kurdi), 
and  a kind  of  cloth  termed  “turkedi,”  supplying  the  place  of 
coinage.  The  whole  province  is  supposed  to  contain  more  than 
half  a million  inhabitants,  about  half  of  whom  are  slaves.  The 
rule  of  the  governor,  and  a kind  of  council  associated  with 
him,  is,  on  the  whole,  not  oppressive,  although,  as  among  more 
civilized  communities,  heavy  taxation  is  not  unknown. 

Barth,  after  about  a month’s  residence,  left  Kano  and  pro- 
ceeded eastward  to  Kfikawa,  passing  through  the  frontier  coun- 
try, which  is  infested  with  thieves.  In  this  territory  there  is 
an  immense  level  tract,  which  is  partly  desert,  and  afterwards 
there  occurs  a more  fertile  region,  in  which  the  villages  exhib- 
ited a cheerful  picture  of  wealth  and  industry ; and  then  he 
entered  “ Bornu  Proper.”  It  was  here  that  he  heard  of  the 
death  of  Mr.  Richardson,  whom,  within  a week  or  two,  he  had 
expected  to  meet  again.  He  went  on  to  Ngunituwa,  to  visit 
liis  grave,  which  he  found  under  a fig-tree,  and  well  protected 
with  thorn-bushes,  for  the  story  of  the  white  man’s  untimely 
end  had  awakened  the  sympathies  of  the  people,  and  they  had 
done  him  all  honor  in  his  burial.  Keeping  on  through  the 
country,  he  found  it  partly  cultivated  and  partly  covered  with 
thick  underwood,  which  was  full  of  locusts ; and  soon  found 
himself  in  the  neighborhood  of  a river.  This  was  “the  great 
Komadugn  of  Bornu.”  A fine  expanse  of  water  came  in  sight, 
and  there  were  many  footprints  of  elephants.  Barth  was  at- 
tended only  by  two  young  servants,  and  as  they  went  onwards 
they  came  upon  a company  of  wandering  herdsmen,  who  gave 
the  travellers  a cordial  welcome,  bringing  them  immense  bowls 
of  milk  and  “ fresh  butter  prepared  with  as  much  cleanliness 
and  taste  as  in  any  English  or  Swiss  dairy.”  These  herdsmen 
are  of  the  Fellatah  tribe,  but  are  permitted  to  pasture  their 
flocks  even  in  the  midst  of  a hostile  race,  without  pay  ng  any 
tribute  to  the  Sheikh.  These  hospitable  people  assisted  the 
strangers  to  ford  the  Kom&dugu,  which  was  only  three  feet  deep 


63 


BARTH , OVERWEG,  AND  RICHARDSON. 


where  they  crossed,  although  there  were  channels  of  greater 
depth  at  either  side ; nor  would  they  leave  them  until  they  had 
conducted  them  through  the  dense  covert  of  underwood  which 
bordered  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river.  Great  kindness,  in 
various  ways,  was  shown  by  these  people.  It  is  indeed  impos- 
sible to  read  of  the  many  humane  services  which  Barth  received 
at  the  hands  of  these  simple  tribes,  or  his  description  of  their 
natural  intelligence,  their  industry,  and  their  domestic  habits, 
without  earnestly  desiring  that  they  may  be  speedily  brought 
within  the  sphere  of  civilization. 

The  authorities  at  Kiikawa  gave  the  traveller  a courteous 
reception,  and  he  was  afterwards  put  in  possession  of  Mr. 
Richardson’s  papers  and  journals,  together  with  most  of  his 
effects.  The  Sheikh  Omar,  whom  lie  found  to  be  a veritable 
black  prince,  was  of  mild  temper  and  indolent  habits,  ruling 
only  in  name, — the  real  power  being  in  the  hands  of  his  Vizier, 
el  Hat  Besliir,  an  intelligent  man,  who  in  1843  had  gone  on  a 
pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  like  a devout  follower  of  the  Prophet, 
whose  precepts  respecting  wine,  and  whose  license  as  to  the 
pleasures  of  the  harem,  lie  both  duly  observed.  This  latter 
“institution”  was  on  a royal  scale,  consisting  of  between  three 
aud  four  hundred  beauties  of  different  tribes,  not  only  of 
Negrcland,  but  of  more  Northern  climes — a real  live  Circas- 
sian, as  he  exultingly  told  Dr.  Barth,  having  a place  among 
them.  After  having  been  the  Sheikh’s  right-hand  man  for 
many  years,  poor  el  IJaj  Besliir  was  put  to  death  in  1853,  leav- 
ing behind  him  a patriarchal  family  of  seventy-three  sons,  and 
daughters  without  number.  On  the  whole  this  man  was  not 
only  intelligent  but  upright.  Barth  had  many  conversations 
with  him  on  the  importance  of  extending  the  commerce  of 
B6rnu,  and  of  suppressing  the  slave-trade.  lie  fully  appreci- 
ated the  former ; and  he  also  acknowledged  the  misery  con- 
nected with  the  latter,  but  it  was  difficult  to  make  him  sensible 
of  the  horrors  of  slave-hunting.  He  was  desirous  of  entering 
into  commercial  relations  with  England,  but  wished  the  sale 
of  two  things  to  be  prohibited — spirituous  liquors  and  Bibles. 
The  objection  to  the  sale  of  Bibles  is  curious,  as  he  did  not 
object  to  their  being  brought  into  the  country  or  given  as 
presents. 

A comfortable  clay  dwelling  having  been  put  at  the  dis- 
posal of  Barth  and  Overweg,  they  sought  to  make  themselves 
at  home,  and  to  become  acquainted  with  the  town.  Their 
abode  consisted  of  several  small  but  neat  rooms,  with  sur- 
rounding yards  and  thatched  huts,  the  whole  being  designated 


BARTH \ OVER  WHO,  AND  RICHARDSON.  69 

“the  English  house;”  the  town  they  found  to  be  much  infe- 
rior in  population  and  luxury  to  Kano.  But  Lake  Ts&d  (Tchad 
or  Chad)  was  the  great  attraction,  and  under  the  care  of  an 
escort  provided  by  the  Vizier  they  proceeded  thither.  It  was 
the  dry  season,  and  the  lowlands  usually  covered  with  water 
were  now  grassy  meadows.  Passing  over  these,  after  little 
more  than  half  an  hour’s  ride  they  “ reached  swampy  ground, 
and  thus  came  to  the  margin  of  a tine  open  sheet  of  water,  en- 
compassed with  papyrus  and  tall  reeds,  of  from  ten  to  four- 
teen feet  in  height,  of  two  different  kinds,  the  one  called 
* mel4,’  and  the  other  4 here  ’ or  4 bele.’  The  thicket  was  inter- 
woven by  a climbing  plant  with  yellow  flowers,  while  on  the 
surface  was  a floating  plant,  called  facetiously  by  the  natives, 
4 fannavilla-dago  ’ (the  homeless  fauna).  This  creek  was  called 
4 Ngiruwa.’  ” 

Coming  upon  deep  water  full  of  grass,  they  soon  reached 
another  creek,  and  sighted  two  small  boats  belonging  to  the 
pirates  of  the  Ts&d,  small  flat-boats,  made  of  the  light  and  nar- 
row wood  of  the  “ fego,”  about  twelve  feet  long,  and  man- 
aged by  two  men  each.  They  went  onward,  startling  large 
herds  of  kelara — a peculiar  kind  of  antelope  which  is  fond  of 
the  water — and  in  their  progress  became  immersed  so  deeply  in 
water  that  they  might  have  drunk  of  it  by  stooping  down  a 
little,  though  they  were  oil  horseback.  The  draught  was  not 
tempting,  however,  for  the  water  was  very  warm  and  full  of 
vegetable  matter.  It  is  perfectly  fresh.  The  account  which 
is  given  us  of  Lake  Ts&d  is  deeply  interesting.  It  is  a huge 
inland  sea,  spreading  out  its  placid  waters,  its  banks  fringed 
with  gigantic  reeds,  sheltering  many  hippopotami,  with  light 
barks  floating  on  its  surface,  some  with  gleaming  white  sails  in 
the  far  distance.  The  people  on  the  islands  build  boats  of 
twenty  feet  in  length,  though  narrow.  One  which  accompanied 
Mr.  Overweg  on  a voyage  which  he  made  on  these  waters  was 
nearly  fifty  feet  long,  although  only  six  and  a half  wide.  Dr. 
Barth  says : 44 1 invariably  understood  from  all  the  people  with 
whom  I spoke  about  this  interesting  lake,  that  the  open  water, 
with  its  islands  of  elevated  sandy  downs,  stretches  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Shary  towards  the  western  shore,  and  that  all  the 
rest  of  the  lake  consists  of  swampy  meadow  lands,  occasionally 
inundated.  Indeed,  Tsad,  or  Tsade,  is  nothing  else  but  an- 
other form  for  Shary,  Shari,  or  Sari.” 

In  May,  1851,  Dr.  Barth,  leaving  Overweg  to  explor3  Lake 
Tsad  in  a boat  which  had  been  brought  in  sections  overland 
from  Tripoli,  went  on  a journey  southwards  to  Acamaue 


70 


BARTH,  OVERWEG , AND  RICHARDSON. 


(Adamawa  on  the  map),  where  lie  hoped  to  be  able  to  trace 
the  eastern  branch  of  the  Niger,  and  proceeded  along  a dreary 
country,  where  the  footprints  of  the  giraffe  were  first  visible, 
and  in  which  wild  hogs  abounded.  Farther  on  there  were 
corn-fields,  cotton-fields,  and,  in  one  instance,  a dyeing-place, 
giving  proof  of  a certain  amount  of  industry  in  the  villages, 
which  now  became  numerous.  In  passing  through  the  border 
country  of  the  Margin,  a pagan  tribe,  he  was  struck  with  the 
symmetry  of  the  forms  and  features  of  the  people,  who,  in 
many  instances,  had  nothing  of  the  Negro  type.  They  seemed, 
moreover,  a pleasant,  good-natured  race,  whom  it  was  sad  to 
see  so  unmercifully  trodden  down  by  their  Mohometan 
neighbors.  Passing  the  village  of  I’sge,  the  first  view  of 
Mount  Mendefi  was  obtained,  which,  since  it  was  seen  by 
Major  Denham  on  his  adventurous  expedition,  has  become  so 
celebrated,  occasioning  all  sorts  of  conjectures  and  theories. 
From  a close  examination  he  concludes  that  it  is  not  the  centre 
of  an}  considerable  mountain  mass,  but  a detached  cone,  rising 
from  a level  plain,  and  probably  of  volcanic  origin. 

Ten  days’  journey  brought  them  to  the  border  of  Adainaua, 
and  the}7  took  up  their  abode  in  Mubi,  the  first  village.  They 
were  accommodated  by  the  governor  in  a spacious  and  cool 
hut,  with  a courtyard,  and  for  his  courtesy  they  presented  him 
with  ten  sheets  of  paper — a gift  so  munificent  to  one  who,  al- 
though claiming  to  be  a man  of  learning,  “had  never  before 
seen  so  much  writing  iriaterial  together,”  that  his  delight  was 
unbounded.  When  they  again  set  out  on  their  journey,  the 
whole  village  was  excited  by  a marvellous  novelty;  but,  says 
Barth,  naively,  “ the  wonder  was  not  ourselves,  but  our  camel.” 
Many  had  never  seen  one  at  all,  and  it  was  fifteen  years  since 
the  last  had  passed  along  this  road.  The  people  here  are  re- 
markably courteous.  Ground  nuts  form  a large  proportion  of 
the  food  of  the  inhabitants — as  potatoes  in  Ireland.  Corn  is 
also  grown,  and  the  fields  are  adorned  with  the  butter-tree, 
which  is  greatly  valued.  People  were  everywhere  busy  in  the 
fields,  and  the  country  altogether  presented  a pleasant  aspect 
of  industry. 

A wild  and  hilly  district  succeeded,  and'  then  they  entered 
the  village  of  Sarauri,  very  neat  in  the  construction  of  its  huts, 
and  abundant  in  its  proofs  of  domestic  comfort.  The  vegeta- 
tion was  rich,  and  the  country  was  open  and  pleasant.  Forests 
and  cultivated  ground  followed,  and  then  corn-fields,  where 
the  corn  (Permisetiim)  stood  already  five  feet  high,  and  indi- 
cations of  watercourses  and  tracks  of  the  hippopotamus  showed 


BARTH , OVERWEQ , AA7)  RICHARDSON. 


71 


that  they  were  approaching  the  great  artery  of  the  country. 
In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  water  there  were  great 
ant-hills,  ranged  in  almost  parallel  lines;  and  in  the  distance 
was  Mount  Alantika,  a large  and  isolated  mass  rising  abruptly 
on  the  east  side,  and  forming  a more  gradual  slope  towards  the 
west,  exhibiting  a smooth  and  broad  top,  which  must  be 
spacious,  inasmuch  as  it  contains  the  estates  of  seven  independ- 
ent chiefs.  Its  height  was  estimated  at  between  seven  thou- 
sand and  eight  thousand  feet.  But  the  principal  object  of 
interest  was  the  river  Benue,  which  they  came  upon  on  the 
18th  of  June,  just  where  it  is  joined  by  the  rapid  F&ro.  Barth 
says : — 

“ As  I looked  from  the  bank  over  the  scene  before  me,  I was 
quite  enchanted,  although  the  whole  country  bore  the  charac- 
ter of  a desolate  wilderness ; but  there  could  scarcely  be  any 
great  traces  of  human  industry  near  the  river,  as  during  its 
floods  it  inundates  the  whole  country  on  both  sides.  The 
principal  river — the  Benue — flowed  here  from  east  to  west,  in 
a broad  and  majestic  course,  through  an  entirely  open  country, 
from  which,  only  here  and  there,  detached  mountains  started 
forth.  The  banks  on  our  side  rose  to  twenty  feet,  while  just 
opposite  to  my  station,  behind  a pointed  headland  of  sand,  the 
F&ro  rushed  forth,  appearing  from  this  point  not  much  inferior 
to  the  Benue,  and  coming  in  a fine  sweep  from  the  south-east, 
where  it  disappeared  in  the  plain,  but  was  traced  by  me  in 
thought  upwards  to  the  steep  eastern  foot  of  the  Alantika. 
The  liver  below  the  junction  keeping  the  direction  of  the 
principal  branch,  but  making  a slight  bend  to  the  north,  ran 
along  the  northern  foot  of  Mount  B&gele,  and  was  there  lost  to 
the  eye,  but  followed  in  thought  through  the  mountainous 
region  of  the  Bachama  and  Zina  to  Namarruwa,  and  thence 
along  the  industrious  country  of  Kororefa,  till  it  joined  the 
great  western  river,  the  Kwara,  or  Niger,  and  conjointly  with 

it  ran  towards  the  great  ocean I had  now  with  my 

own  eyes  clearly  established  the  direction  and  nature  of  this 
mighty  river,  and  there  could  no  longer  be  any  doubt  that  this 
river  joins  the  majestic  watercourse  explored  by  Messrs.  Allen, 
Laird,  and  Oldfield.  Hence  I cherish  the  well-founded  con- 
viction that,  along  this  natural  high-road,  European  influence 
and  commerce  will  penetrate  into  the  very  heart  of  the  conti- 
nent, and  abolish  slavery — or  rather  those  infamous  slave-hunts 
and  religious  wars  spreading  devastation  and  desolation  all 

around The  river,  where  we  crossed  it,  was,  at  the 

very  least,  eight  hundred  yards  broad,  and  in  its  channel 


72 


BARTH ; OVERWEQ,  AND  RICHARDSON. 


generally  eleven  feet  deep,  and  was  liable  to  rise,  under 
ordinary  circumstances,  at  times  thirty,  or  even  fifty”,  feet 

higher The  second  river,  the  Faro,  is  stated  to  come 

from  Mount  Labul,  about  seven  days’  march  to  the  south.  It 
was  at  present  about  six  hundred  yards  broad,  but  generally 
not  exceeding  two  feet  in  deptli ; its  current,  however,  is  ex- 
tremely violent.  We  next  entered  upon  low  meadow-land, 
overgrown  with  tall  reed-grass,  which,  a month  later,  is  en- 
tirely inundated  to  such  a depth  that  only  the  crowns  of  the  tall- 
est trees  are  seen  rising  above  the  water,  of  which  they  bore 
unmistakable  traces,  the  highest  line  thus  marked  being  about 

sixty  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  river My 

companions  from  Adamaua  were  almost  unanimous  in  repre- 
senting the  waters  as  preserving  their  highest  level  for  forty 
days,  which,  according  to  their  accounts,  would  extend  from 
about  the  20th  of  August  till  the  end  of  September.  This 
statement  of  mine,  made,  not  from  my  own  experience,  but 
from  the  information  of  the  natives,  has  been  but  slightly 
modified  by  the  experience  of  those  eminent  men  sent  out  by 
Her  Majesty’s  government  in  the  Pleiad.  That  the  fall  of 
the  river,  at  this  point  of  the  junction,  begins  at  the  very  end 
of  September,  has  been  exactly  confirmed  by  these  gentle- 
men.” 

The  way,  on  leaving  the  river,  led  through  a fine,  park-like 
plain,  dotted  with  a few  mimosas  of  middling  size,  and  clear  of 
underwood  ; and,  as  the  travellers  proceeded  onward,  they  came 
upon  beautiful  views  of  cultivated  country, enlivened  by  numer- 
ous herds  of  cattle,  with  many  villages  and  rich  corn-fields. 
Next  comes  Mount  Bagele,  inhabited  in  its  neighborhood,  and 
especially  in  its  fastnesses,  by  tribes  which  have  long  main- 
tained their  independence — an  independence  which,  it  is  to  be 
feared,  has  not  only  already  been  partly  compromised,  but 
which  is  likely  to  be  further  encroached  upon.  Still  passing 
southward  through  a beautiful  country,  Barth  reached  the  capi- 
tal of  Adamaua — Yola — a large,  open  place,  consisting,  with 
few  exceptions,  of  conical  huts,  surrounded  by  spacious  court- 
yards, and  even  by  corn-fields,  the  houses  of  the  governor  and 
those  of  his  brothers  being  alone  built  of  clay.  The  travellers 
were  cordially  welcomed,  the  people  crowding  round  to  shake 
hands  with  the  white  man.  Even  the  governor  was  most  polite 
and  friendly,  but  positively  refused  to  allow  him  to  proceed. 
Conference  and  negotiation  were  vain,  and  after  days  spent  in 
such  unprofitable  endeavors,  the  poor,  sick  traveller  received  an 
order  to  leave  the  town  instantly.  Mortified  at  this  unexpected 


BARTH \ OVERWEQ , AND  RICHARDSON. 


73 


failure  of  his  project  of  journeying  farther  south,  and  weak 
from  fever,  he  was  lifted  on  his  horse  and  departed.  Yola, 
which  was  thus  the  most  southerly  point  of  Barth’s  journey,  is 
a new  town,  with  little  trade  or  manufacture.  Shivery  exists 
both  in  the  town  and  the  surrounding  country  on  an  immense 
scale.  There  are  many  persons  who  own  more  than  a thousand 
slaves  1 The  tribute  received  yearly  by  the  governor  is  paid  in 
horses,  cattle,  and  slaves,  and  of  that  the  slave  portion  is  said  to 
be  five  thousand. 

On  his  return  journey  the  exceeding  beauty  of  the  country 
again  interested  the  traveller,  as  did  also  the  comfort  of  the 
dwellings  of  the  tribes  through  which  he  had  occasion  to  pass. 
The  customs  of  these  tribes  are  sometimes  curious : for  exam- 
ple, their  ordeal  on  the  holy  granite  rock  of  Kobshi.  When  two 
parties  have  come  into  litigation,  each  of  them  takes  the  cock 
which  he  thinks  best  for  fighting,  and  they  go  together  to 
Kobshi.  Having  arrived  at  the  holy  rock,  they  set  their  birds 
fighting,  and  he  whose  cock  prevails  in  the  combat  is  also  the 
winner  in  the  question  in  litigation.  Moreover,  the  master  of 
the  defeated  bird  is  punished  by  the  divinity  whose  anger  he 
has  thus  provoked,  and,  on  returning  to  the  village,  he  finds 
his  hut  in  flames.  The  worship  of  these  tribes  is  performed 
in  holy  groves,  and,  like  many  others,  they  venerate  their  an- 
cestors. The  people  are  of  Berber  origin,  and  many  customs 
of  great  antiquity  subsist  among  them.  Thus  the  Kamiri, 
even  in  the  present'day,  especially  their  kings,  are  called  after 
the  name  of  their  mother ; and,  although  they  should  be  Ma- 
hometans, as  some  of  them  are,  the  custom  still  continues. 
The  ancient  form  of  election  in  respect  to  the  king  among  the 
people  of  Bornu  seems  to  lead  us  back  to  ancient  Egypt.  On 
the  death  of  the  monarch,  three  of  the  most  distinguished  men 
of  the  country  were  appointed  to  choose  a successor  from 
among  the  deceased  king’s  6ons.  The  choice  being  made,  the 
three  electors  proceeded  to  the  apartment  of  the  sovereign-elect, 
and  conducted  him  in  silence  to  the  place  in  which  lay  ihe 
corpse  of  his  deceased  father.  There,  over  the  body,  die 
newly  elected  king  entered  into  an  agreement,  sanctioned  by 
oath,  binding  himself  to  respect  the  ancient  institutions,  and 
employ  himself  for  the  glory  of  his  country.  A similiar 
custom  obtains  in  the  province  of  Muniyo  at  the  present  day. 
Every  newly  elected  Muniydma  is  in  duty  bound  to  remain  for 
6eveu  days  in  a cave,  hollowed  out  by  nature  or  by  the  hand  of 
man,  in  the  rock  behind  the  place  of  sepulchre  of  the  former 
Mfiniydma,  in  the  ancient  town  of  G&mmasak,  although  that 


74  BARTH ; OVERWEG , #/C7//l/7DS0iV. 

town  is  quite  deserted  and  does  not  contain  a single  inhab- 
itant. 

When  Barth  drew  near  to  Kiikawa,  three  appointed  horse- 
men met  him,  and  conducted  him  to  his  house  with  all  honor. 
The  Vizier  received  him  in  the  presence  of  a great  multitude, 
and  kindly  condoled  with  him  on  his  illness.  The  rainy  sea- 
son having  now  set  in,  he  remained  lor  a time  at  Kiikawa,  and 
then,  accompanied  by  Ovcrweg,  made  an  excursion  to  Kanem, 
an  immense  unexplored  region  lying  north-east  of  Lake  Tsad, 
and  extending  almost  to  Abyssinia.  Keeping  along  the  shores 
of  Lake  Tsad,  he  found  cotton -lields  ; cotton,  a little  wheat,  fish 
from  the  lake,  and  the  fruit  of  the  “dum  palm”  being  the  sole 
produce.  Of  fish  there  are  several  palatable  kinds,  and  among 
them  one  resembling  the  mullet,  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  long. 
The  electric  fish  is  also  found  here.  While  on  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  ho  had  the  good  fortune  to  enjoy  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing sights  which  these  regions  can  possibly  afford — a whole  herd 
of  elephants,  arranged  in  regular  array,  like  an  army  of  rational 
beings,  proceeding  to  the  water.  They  were  ninety-six  in  num- 
ber ; tlie  huge  males  marched  first,  the  young  ones  followed 
at  a little  distance,  and  in  a third  line  were  the  females, 
the  whole  being  brought  up  by  five  males  of  immense  size. 
These  turned  to  notice  the  travellers,  and  threw  dust  into  the 
air  as  though  in  defiance,  but  not  being  disturbed,  they  passed 
quietly  on.  The  next  zoological  experience  was  not  so  pleas- 
ant ; this  was  a large  snake  hanging  in  a threatening  attitude 
from  the  branches  of  a tree.  It  was  shot,  and  measured  18 
feet  7 inches,  its  diameter  being  5 inches;  it  was  beautifully 
variegated.  Further  on  they  reached  the  encampment  of  the 
Welad  Sliman,  a wild  horde,  who  welcomed  them,  starting 
from  the  thicket  right  and  left,  firing  their  muskets,  and  utter- 
ing the  cry,  “ Ya  riyab,  ya  riyab ! ” 13y  and  by  the  whole 

cavalry  of  the  Welad  Sliman  appeared,  drawn  up  in  a line,  in 
their  best  attire,  and  headed  by  their  chiefs.  Biding  up  to  the 
travellers,  they  saluted  them  with  their  pistols  in  true  eastern 
style,  and  Barth  and  Overwcg  were  conducted  to  the  encamp- 
ment of  these  Arab  robbers. 

The  Welad  Sliman  are  a brave,  fierce  tribe ; originally 
driven  from  the  Syrtis,  they  have  established  themselves  in 
this  border  region  of  Negroland.  The  travellers,  during  their 
stay,  had  full  opportunity  of  learning  the  sort  of  life  these 
people  lived.  On  the  night  of  their  arrival  a violent  scream- 
ing issued  from  the  women’s  tents,  and  it  was  found  that  an- 
other robber  tribe  had  made  an  attack  on  the  camels,  killed  a 


BARTH,  OVERWEO , AND  RICHARDSON. 


75 


horseman,  and  carried  away  a part  of  the  herd.  “ To  the  sad- 
dle ! ” was  the  cry  ; the  robbers  were  pursued,  and  the  camels 
retaken  ; but  the  wail  of  the  women  over  the  slain  men  rang 
mournfully  through  the  night.  In  a day  or  two  there  was  a 
fresh  cause  of  disturbance.  The  handsomest  of  the  female 
slaves,  intended  for  the  establishment  of  the  Vizier,  had  escaped. 
Search  was  made  for  her  diligently,  and  at  length  her  neck- 
lace, her  clothes,  and  a few  remaining  bones  showed  that  she 
had  fallen  a prey  to  the  wild  beasts.  Soon  after,  discord -broke 
out  among  the  leaders ; and  many  of  the  tribes  left,  impatient 
of  the  rule  of  the  young  chief.  One  day,  during  the  season 
of  these  disturbances,  a Zebu  chieftain  paid  a “ friendly  ” visit 
to  Dr.  Barth,  and,  before  leaving,  quietly  requested  to  be  ac- 
commodated with  a little  poison,  which  was,  of  course,  refused. 
Fortunately,  the  exhibition  of  a watch  and  the  wonders  of  a 
musical-box  conciliated  the  savage.  Other  foemen  approached, 
and  “ To  the  saddle ! ” was  again  the  cry.  The  travellers,  not 
too  soon,  concluded  that  it  would  be  wise  to  proceed  on  their 
journey,  and  they  hurried  through  a well-watered  country,  stop- 
ping at  a village  where  the  people  kindly  welcomed  them, 
inquiring  about  England,  and  whether  the  English  were 
friendly  towards  them.  The  intelligence  of  these  native  tribes 
contrasted  strongly  with  that  of  the  Wel&d  Sliman.  The  course 
still  lay  through  cultivated  districts,  date-trees,  cotton-fields, 
and  corn-fields.  Here,  again  a party  of  “the  covetous  Arab 
freebooters  ” began  to  indulge  in  their  predatory  habits,  at  the 
expense  of  the  owners  of  the  small  flocks  of  sheep  belonging 
to  the  neighboring  valley.  But  they  were  repulsed,  and  their 
booty  was  small ; aud,  as  a just  retaliation,  another  plundering 
horde  attacked  them,  and  compelled  them  to  abandon  their 
whole  spoil,  and  flee  for  their  lives.  Finding  that  a caravan 
was  being  formed  to  go  to  Kukawa,  and  now  satisfied  that  their 
present  mode  of  travelling  was  hazardous  and  comparatively 
useless,  Barth  and  Overweg  resolved  to  return  with  it,  regret- 
ting to  leave  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Tsad  unexplored. 

When  they  arrived  at  Kiikawa,  they  found  that  there  was 
an  expedition  about  to  proceed  agaiust  Mandara,  and,  desirous 
of  visiting  as  many  localities  as  possible,  and  of  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  every  phase  of  life  in  these  regions,  Barth  joined 
it.  There  was  an  imposing  army,  headed  by  the  Sheikh  and 
his  Vizier.  The  ostensible  object  was  war  against  Mandara, 
but  the  real  purpose  was  to  fall  upon  the  unprotected  villages 
by  the  way,  and  to  plunder  and  burn  them,  and  seize  their  in- 
habitants for  slaves  ; this  being  the  ordinary  and  popular  plan 


76 


BARTH ; OVERWEO , iZ/OTAEDSOiV: 


for  filling  the  Sheikh’s  exchequer.  The  slave-rooms  of  the 
great  men  were  moreover,  at  the  time,  remarkably  empty.  The 
army,  on  this  occasion,  consisted  of  nearly  twenty  thousand 
men,  and  it  made  an  imposing  appearance.  The  heavy  cavalry 
were  clad,  some  in  thick  wadded  clothing,  others  in  coats  of 
mail  with  their  tin  helmets  glittering  in  the  sun,  and  mounted 
on  large,  heavy  chargers.  Then  the  light  Shuwa  horsemen,  clad 
only  in  a loose  shirt,  and  mounted  on  mean-looking  horses  ; the 
slaves  decked  out  in  red  bernouses,  or  silks  of  various  colors ; 
next,  the  Kanombu  spearmen,  with  their  large  wooden  shields, 
their  aprons,  and  their  strange  head-dresses;  while  the  train  of 
camels  and  pack-oxen  closed  the  long  array,  pressing  onwards 
to  the  unknown  regions  towards  the  south-west. 

The  progress  of  this  military  force  was  a very  melancholy 
spectacle.  They  marched  through  luxuriant  corn-fields,  cutting 
down  and  carrying  off  what  they  chose,  and  trampling  down 
what  they  left ; lopping  off  the  branches  of  the  finest  trees  for 
tent  fences,  and  pursuing  and  killing  every  native  man  they 
could  find.  Dr.  Barth  expresses  his  disgust  at  joining  this  ex- 
pedition ; but  justly  remarks  that  only  by  this  means  could  he 
ascertain  whether  the  reports  of  the  cruelties  in  the  slave-hunts 
were  true  or  exaggerated,  and  also  whether  the  unfortunate 
tribes  were  really  the  savages  they  were  represented  to  be.  On 
both  of  these  questions  his  testimony  is  most  ample  and  con- 
clusive. So  far  from  being  mere  savages,  the  villages  of  these 
unfortunate  tribes  bore  witness  to  no  small  degree  of  civiliza- 
tion among  their  inhabitants.  The  huts  were  neatly  constructed 
of  clay,  with  thatched  roofs  of  various  forms,  probably  indicat- 
ing varieties  of  rank;  each  was  neatly  enclosed  by  a clay  wall, 
and  each  had  its  thatched  granary,  its  cooking- pi  ace,  and  its 
water-jars.  Most  of  the  villages  were  overshadowed  by  beauti- 
ful trees,  and  coru  and  cotton  fields — in  one  instance  tobacco 
— and  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  and  herds  of  cattle,  showed 
the  industry  of  the  people.  Another  mark  of  civilization  was 
the  careful  preservation  of  the  dead  in  regular  sepulchres,  cov- 
ered in  with  large,  well-rounded  vaults,  the  tops  of  which 
were  adorned  with  a couple  of  beams,  cross-laid,  or  by  an 
earthen  urn.  The  meaning  of  the  cross-beams  it  is  not  easy  to 
conjecture,  but  the  urn  in  all  probability  contains  the  head  of 
the  deceased. 

The  slave-hunts  are  described  as  fearfully  barbarous.  The 
usual  mode  of  proceeding  is  for  large  numbers  of  armed  men 
to  attack  a village,  set  it  on  fire,  and  then  seize  the  flying 
women  and  children,  cutting  down  the  men  who  resist,  or  who 


BARTH,  OYERWEG , AND  RICHARDSON. 


77 


are  overtaken  in  their  flight.  On  one  occasion,  Barth  passed  a 
burning  village  which  only  a few  moments  before  had  been  the 
abode  of  comfort  and  happiness;  and  at  Kdkal4,  one  of  the 
most  considerable  villages  in  the  Miisgu  country,  he  found  that, 
after  some  skirmishing,  nearly  a thousand  slaves  were  brought 
in.  Not  fewer  than  a hundred  and  seventy  full-grown  men 
were  mercilessly  slaughtered  in  cold  blood,  the  greater  part 
of  them  being  allowed  to  bleed  to  death,  after  a leg  had  been 
severed  from  the  body. 

This  expedition,  with  so  large  an  army,  and  the  destruction 
of  so  many  villages,  led  to  poor  results.  There  were  captured 
ten  thousand  cattle  and  about  three  thousand  slaves,  the  greater 
part  of  the  latter  being  so  decrepit  that  they  could  scarcely 
walk,  and  infants  and  children  under  eight  years  old.  The 
number  of  full-grown  men  was  about  three  hundred.  The  en- 
couragement of  industry  and  trade  is  the  most  likely  means  of 
suppressing  this  infamous  traffic,  and  the  desire  of  the  natives 
for  trade  with  the  Europeans  seems  to  indicate  that  the  time  is 
at  hand.  On  the  return  march,  a rather  more  easterly  course 
was  taken,  and  the  Biver  Log6n  was  approached.  The  sur- 
rounding country  was  found  to  be  extensively  cultivated  and 
well  watered.  Both  men  and  women  are  passionately  fond  of 
smoking. 

The  next  journey  made  by  Barth  was  to  the  south-eastward, 
to  Baghirmi.  The  traveller,  on  this  occasion,  had  but  one 
horse  and  a camel,  and  was  attended  only  by  two  young  lads. 
The  country  traversed  was  less  fertile,  the  inhabitants  less  in- 
dustrious, and  several  towns  which  were  passed  were  in  a con- 
dition of  decay.  Karnak  Logon,  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  Log6n,  is  a place  of  considerable  size,  and  the  palace  of  the 
Sultan,  though  of  clay,  a rather  superior  building.  The  Sultan 
granted  the  traveller  an  interview,  and  graciously  accepted  a 
present  of  Turkish  trousers  and  some  articles  of  hardware,  be- 
ing most  of  all  delighted  with  a few  darning-needles,  “ for  he 
had  never  seen  their  like;”  he  therefore  carefully  counted 
them,  and  assigned  them  to  their  respective  owners  in  the 
harem.  The  only  return  requested  in  connection  with  this 
splendid  present  was  permission  to  navigate  the  river,  and  this 
was  at  once  conceded.  The  scenery  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
was  beautiful.  Shortly  after  having  begun  his  exploration, 
Barth  was  startled  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  an  cld  man 
who,  with  an  imperious  air,  forbade  him  to  survey  the  river, 
and  ordered  him  to  retrace  his  steps  directly.  Having  had  the 
permission  of  the  Sultan,  he  was  naturally  confounded.  But 


78 


BARTH , OVERWEO,  AND  RICHARDSON 


he  was  informed  that  this  was  the  king  of  the  waters,  the  “mar- 
dlegha,”  and  that  he  had  full  authority  over  the  river.  The 
traveller  had  known  about  the  authority  of  the  king  of  the 
river  in  the  regions  of  the  Niger,  but  was  not  aware  of  the 
prevalence  of  the  custom  here.  There  was  much  talk  in  the 
town  about  this  desire  to  survey  the  river,  and,  when  the  Vizier 
was  appealed  to,  he  was  anxious  to  know  if,  once  embarked  in 
a boat,  Barth  might  not  jump  out  in  search  for  gold ; when  the 
traveller  told  him  be  was  rather  afraid  of  the  crocodiles.  This 
considerably  alleviated  suspicion,  for  these  people  had  sup- 
posed Europeans  to  be  a sort  of  supernatural  beings,  exempt 
from  every  kind  of  fear.  At  eight,  o’clock  the  next  morning, 
therefore,  Barth  went  on  board  his  boat,  and  proceeded  on  his 
expedition.  lie  found  along  the  shore  a tall  reed,  which,  as  on 
the  shores  of  the  Tsad,  was  the  true  papyrus,  from  which  the 
natives  prepare  a kind  of  cloth.  The  name  Shary  signifies 
nothing  more  specific  than  “ the  river.” 

On  this  occasion  there  was  no  interference  by  the  king  of  the 
river ; but  nearly  half  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  had  come 
out  to  see  what  the  Christian  was  doing.  A crocodile  having 
raised  its  head,  Barth  fired  at  it,  and  the  crowd  burst  into  loud 
acclamations  as  if  they  admired  the  deed.  But  the  notion  that 
the  stranger  was  searching  for  gold  was  uppermost  in  their 
minds ; and  when,  soon  afterwards,  tempted  by  the  smoothness 
and  coolness  of  the  stream,  he  jumped  overboard,  there  was 
great  shouting  among  them ; but  when  they  saw  him  come  out 
empty  handed,  they  declared  that  they  had  been  cheated,  for 
they  had  certainly  been  told  that  he  was  searching  for  gold. 
We  are  not  informed  whether  any  gold  was  ever  found  in  this 
river;  but  the  unhesitating  and  general  belief  of  the  people 
leaves  little  room  for  doubt  that  there  must  have  been.  u This 
little  excursion,”  says  Hr.  Barth,  “ cost  me  dear,  for  the  people 
of  Baghirmi,  seeing  me  create  such  an  uproar,  felt  inclined  to 
suppose  that  if  I entered  their  country  I might  create  a dis- 
turbance” there;  and  their  fears  and  jealousies  no  doubt  led  to 
the  detentions  and  annoyances  which  soon  after  followed. 
The  people  of  this  province  are  not  industrious.  Still,  they  are 
neither  savage  nor  totally  idle.  They  cultivate  and  weave 
cotton,  and  produce  a beautiful  kind  of  lattice- work,  while  their 
ingenuity  is  also  proved  by  their  ornamental  wooden  bowls,  and 
their  productions  in  designs  worked  in  straw.  Their  women 
are  said  to  be  very  handsome. 

Leaving  Kdrnak  Logon,  the  next  region  was  one  which  had 
never  before  been  trodden  by  European  feet ; and  after  pro- 


BARTH , OVERWEG,  AND  RICHARDSON. 


79 


ceeding  some  distance,  there  was  seen  through  the  brandies  of 
the  trees  the  splendid  sheet  of  a large  river,  the  pellucid  sur- 
face of  which  was  undisturbed  by  the  slightest  breeze.  This 
was  the  real  Shary,  the  great  river  of  the  Kokot6,  which,  aug- 
mented by  the  smaller  but  very  considerable  river  of  Logon, 
forms  the  large  basin  which  gives  to  this  part  of  Negroland  its 
characteristic  feature.  Desiring  to  cross  it,  Barth  was  refused 
a passage  by  the  ferry-man.  Ilis  fame  had  preceded  him  ; he 
was  said  to  be  a most  dangerous  person,  who  might  even  ruin 
the  kingdom  of  Baghirmi.  Resolved  not  to  abandon  the  ob- 
ject for  which  he  had  journeyed  so  far,  he  endeavored  to  cross 
by  stealth,  and  succeeded ; but  his  movements  had  been 
watched,  and  while  resting  in  the  shade,  the  head  man  in  the 
neighboring  village  came  upon  him  with  an  armed  escort,  and 
proliibited  his  further  progress.  lie  remained  in  the  village  lor 
several  days,  strongly  suspected  by  the  inhabitants.  lie  was 
then  sent  from  one  place  to  another,  and  when,  wearied  with 
delays,  he  sought  to  return  to  his  starting-point,  he  was  seized 
and  put  in  irons.  Ultimately,  under  the  care  of  a benevolent 
native,  he  was  conducted  to  Ma-steiia,  the  capital.  In  the  ab- 
sence of  the  Sultan,  the  governor  apologized  to  him  for  the 
treatment  which  he  had  received,  and  restored  to  him  all  that 
had  been  taken  from  him. 

After  a,  stay  of  more  than  two  months,  there  came  the  intel- 
ligence that  the  absent  Sultan  was  really  at  hand  ; and,  ere 
long,  he  appeared  in  barbaric  pomp,  preceded  by  his  cavalry, 
mounted  himself  on  his  war-horse,  shaded  with  red  and  green 
umbrellas,  fanned  by  ostrich  plumes  borne  on  long  poles,  and 
followed  by  the  “war  camel”  bearing  the  kettle-drums,  on 
which  the  drummer  was  exerting  his  utmost  skill  and  strength. 
The  royal-  household  followed,  and  conspicuous  in  the  proces- 
sion were  forty-five  female  favorites,  each  mounted  on  horse- 
back, and  dressed  in  black  native  cloth,  and  each  having  a slave 
on  either  side.  After  all  the  dangers  and  difficulties  of  the 
journey  it  is  gratifying  to  know  that  it  was  not  fruitless.  The 
Sultan,  finding  that  the  stranger  was  not  likely  to  bewitch  him, 
willingly  gave  him  all  the  liberty  of  exploration  which  he  de- 
sired, furnished  him  with  specimens  of  the  manufactures  of  the 
country,  and  promised  his  protection  to  any  future  travellers 
who  might  visit  his  dominions. 

Mr.  Overweg  had,  meanwhile,  been  making  an  excursion  into 
the  south-western  mountainous  regions  of  B6rnu  ; and  when  the 
two  travellers  met,  Barth  was  alarmed  at  the  sickly  look  of  his 
companion.  Days  passed  ; change  of  sceue  was  procured  and 


80 


BARTH, ; OVERWEG,  AND  RICHARDSON. 


other  means  employed;  but  violent  fever  supervened,  delirium 
came  on,  and,  after  a few  hours  of  insensibility,  lie  died.  His 
sorrowing  and  desolate  friend  laid  his  bodily  remains  in  his  grave 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  beneath  the  shade  of  a spread- 
ing tree,  “ on  the  very  borders  of  that  lake  by  the  navigation  of 
which  he  had  made  his  name  celebrated  forever.”  Mr.  Ovcr- 
weg  had  not  completed  the  thirtieth  year  of  his  age. 

Barth  was  now  alone ; but  fresh  funds  reaching  him  from  the 
English  government,  he  resolved  to  pursue  his  explorations, 
sending  his  papers  to  England,  with  a request  that  another  as- 
sociate should  be  provided  for  him,  and  fixing  upon  the  distant 
kingdom  of  Timbuctoo  as  his  destination.  He  left  Kukawa 
November  25th,  1852,  with  five  servants,  four  camels,  as  many 
horses,  and  goods  for  presents  worth  $200.  This  time,  the 
journey  was  to  the  north-west.  The  party,  pressing  forward  in  a 
leisurely  way  through  a well-settled  region,  readied  Sackatoo 
in  April,  1853,  and  Timbuctoo,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of 
Timbuctoo,  on  September  7th  of  the  same  year.  Here  Barth 
was  detained  as  a prisoner  for  seven  months,  and  for  nearly  two 
years  he  was  prevented  from  returning  to  Kukawa  by  wars 
among  the  chieftains  on  the  route,  and  by  the  hostility  mani- 
fested towards  him  by  the  Vizier  of  Bornu.  This  rapacious 
prince  forwarded  to  Europe  the  report  that  the  traveller  had 
died,  hoping  that  such  would  soon  be  the  case,  and  that  thus  the 
supplies  of  the  expedition  would  fall  into  his  own  hands  ; but 
civil  commotions  arising,  the  Vizier  was  deposed,  and  Barth 
was  protected  by  the  Sheik  of  Timbuctoo,  who  furnished  him 
with  an  escort  as  far  back  as  Sackatoo.  During  his  stay  in 
Timbuctoo  he  succeeded  in  exploring  the  middle  course  of 
theKwara,  or  Niger,  which  had  never  before  been  done  by  any 
European  except  Mungo  Park,  whose  journals  perished  with 
him.  lie  also  discovered  Gando  and  Ilamd-Allahi,  two  con- 
siderable kingdoms  the  existence  of  which  had  been  previously 
unknown ; and  touched  upon  the  eastern  border  of  Segu. 
On  October  17th,  1854,  he  reached  the  city  of  Kano,  where  he 
found  himself  in  such  a destitute  condition  that  he  had  to  pay 
100  per  cent,  interest  for  a small  loan. 

In  the  meantime  efforts  were  making  to  relieve  him.  Ed- 
ward Vogel,  a German  employed  as  an  assistant  to  the  British 
royal  astronomer,  volunteered  to  go  in  search  of  him,  and  left 
England  accompanied  by  a company  of  sappers  and  miners. 
At  Tripoli  he  was  joined  by  a Mr.  Warrington,  son  of  the  Brit- 
ish consul  at  that  place.  They  reached  Kukawa  in  Decem- 
ber, 1853.  Here  Warrington  died ; but  Yogel,  having  learned 


EXECUTION  IN  SEGU. 


ASHANTEE.  81 

that  Barth  was  still  alive,  pushed  into  the  interior,  and  found 
him  at  Kano  on  the  1st  of  December,  1854. 

Having  wintered  at  Kukawa,  Barth  started  for  home  in  the 
spring  of  1855,  and  reached  Marseilles  on  September  8th,  after 
an  absence  from  Europe  of  nearly  six  years.  Ilis  account  of 
his  explorations,  which  was  published  simultaneously  in  English 
and  German,  is  heavy  and  diffuse  in  style,  but  is,  nevertheless, 
the  most  valuable  book  of  African  travel  that  has  appeared. 


Dr.  Barth’s  travels  were  nearer  to  the  territory  of  Asliantee 
than  any  others  wdiicli  are  narrated  in  detail  in  these  pages ; 
and  as  the  late  war  waged  by  the  British  against  that  kingdom 
has  awakened  considerable  interest  regarding  it,  this  seems  the 
proper  place  to  introduce  a few  statements  in  respect  to  it. 

Asliantee,  or  Ashanti,  is  an  extensive  native  kingdom  lying 
along  the  Gold  Coast  of  Guinea,  and  extending  from  lat.  4°  37' 
to  10°  N.,  and  from  long.  4°  48'  W.  to  1 ° 10'  E.  from  Green- 
wich. It  is  therefore  about  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in 
length  and  as  many  in  breadth.  It  is  a mountainous  country, 
but  the  eminences  are  not  abrupt  or  precipitous.  It  does  not 
lie  in  any  of  the  basins  of  the  great  African  rivers,  but  it  is  well 
watered.  Along  the  coast  there  are  the  embouchures  of  sev- 
eral large  streams,  the  various  affluents  of  which  intersect  the 
country  in  every  direction.  The  Asinee  is  a considerable 
stream  which  is  usually  reckoned  the  line  of  separation  be- 
tween the  Gold  and  Ivory  coasts  ; and  it  forms,  for  some  miles 
from  its  mouth,  the  western  limit  of  Asliantee.  The  Volta,  or 
Asweda,  is  the  largest  of  the  Asliantee  rivers,  and  it  runs  into 
the  sea  in  30'  E.  long.  Its  length  is  estimated  at  about  four 
hundred  miles.  There  are  several  lakes,  which,  in  the  rainy 
season,  frequently  overflow  their  boundaries. 

The  heat  and  unhealthiness  of  the  coast  of  Guinea  are  well 
known.  This  is  owing  largely  to  the  scorching  days  followed 
by  chilly  nights,  but  more  particularly  to  a sulphureous  mist 
which  rises  from  the  valleys  and  the  neighborhood  of  rivers  in 
the  mornings,  especially  during  the  rainy  season.  The  interior 
of  the  country  is  more  healthy.  Like  other  tropical  territories, 
Asliantee  has  its  dry  and  rainy  seasons,  or  rather  one  dry  and 
two  rainy  seasons  in  each  year.  The  first  rains,  ushered  in  by 
violent  tornadoes,  occur  about  the  latter  end  of  May  or  the  begin- 
ning of  June.  These  are  followed  by  fogs  and  haziness,  which 
are  extremely  noxious  at  all  times,  but  are  at  their  worst  in  July 


82 


ASIIANTEE. 


and  August.  The  second  rains  come  on  in  October,  and  after 
them  is  the  dry  and  hot  season,  which  continues  till  April. 

Elephants,  rhinoceroses,  giraffes,  buffaloes,  deer,  antelopes, 
goats,  apes,  monkeys,  and  baboons  are  among  the  harmless  kinds 
of  animals ; but  there  are  also  lions,  tigers,  leopards,  jackals, 
wolves,  and  wild  boars  among  those  of  a ferocious  sort.  The 
rivers  swarm  with  hippopotami  and  alligators ; and  serpents, 
scorpions,  and  lizards  are  numerous. 

Bowdich,  who  has  written  the  best  work  on  Ashantee,  esti- 
mates the  population  of  Ashantee  proper  at  one  million  ; and 
the  whole  empire,  including  the  territories  which  submit  to  the 
rule  of  the  king  of  Ashantee,  at  three  millions. 

The  men  are  well  made,  and  free  to  a considerable  extent 
from  the  peculiarities  of  the  negro  form  and  feature,  and  the 
women  are  said  to  be  comely.  Both  sexes  are  cleanly,  washing 
from  head  to  foot  every  day,  and  afterward  anointing  them- 
selves with  the  grease  of  the  shea,  or  butter-tree,  which  is  a 
good  cosmetic,  and  preservative  of  the  skin  in  so  hot  a climate. 

The  clothes  of  the  better  class  consist  of  immense  cloaks, 
sometimes  made  of  the  most  costly  silks.  The  war-dress  sub- 
stitutes for  this  a close  vest,  covered  with  metal  ornaments  and 
scraps  of  Moorish  writing,  as  spells  against  danger,  loose  cotton 
drawers,  and  large  boots  of  dull  red  leather.  The  superior 
chiefs  have  gold  breastplates  ; and  all  who  can  procure  them 
wear  gold  ornaments  in  profusion. 

Bosnian  enumerates  five  degrees  or  orders  of  society, — the 
king,  the  caboceers,  the  gentry,  the  traders,  and  the  slaves  ; but 
besides  the  king  there  is,  in  fact,  but  one  distinction  of  any 
consequence,  that  between  slave  and  freeman.  The  caboceers, 
or  magistrates  of  towns  and  villages,  are  taken  indiscriminately 
from  the  gentry ; and  these,  again,  are  merely  such  as  have  en- 
riched themselves  by  trade  or  inheritance,  and  who,  not  unfre- 
quentlv,  were  born  slaves.  The  occupations  of  trade  are  prac- 
tised alike  by  the  poorer  freemen  and  the  better  class  of  slaves. 
The  intercourse  between  the  sexes  is  on  the  worst  possible  foot- 
ing. Marriage  is  effected  by  the  payment  of  a sum  of  money 
to  the  parents  of  the  bride,  and  by  a family  feast.  There  are 
certain  forms  to  be  gone  through,  but  this  is  the  substance  of 
the  contract.  Polygamy  is  not  only  legal,  but  may  be  consid- 
ered the  special  institution  of  Ashantee.  The  importance  of  a 
man  is  measured  by  the  number  of  his  wives ; for  these  are  the 
cheapest  laborers.  The  king,  it  is  said,  is  limited  to  3,333 
wives,  who  are  scattered  during  the  working  season  over  his 
numerous  plantations.  While  at  home, , in  the  capital,  they 


ASHANTEE. 


83 


occupy  two  streets,  where  they  are  secluded  from  all  but  the 
king  and  his  female  relations — any  other  person  who  looks  upon 
one  of  them,  even  by  accident,  is  punished  with  death. 

Well-stocked  and  well-regulated  markets  are  held  in  the 
towns,  for  the  supply  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  for  Euro- 
pean manufactures.  The  poorer  classes  live  almost  exclusively 
on  fish  and  dhomrah.  The  common  drink  is  palm  wine. 

At  all  festivals  and  public  occasions  the  most  brutal  excesses 
and  cruelties  are  practised.  Rum  and  palm  wine  are  swallowed 
like  water,  till  a state  of  mad  intoxication  is  induced,  in  which 
hundreds  of  human  victims  are  sacrificed.  The  death  of  a free 
persou  is  almost  always  attended  by  the  slaughter  of  a human 
being,  to  “ wet  the  grave  ; ” and  that  of  a chief  invariably 
causes  a frightful  sacrifice  of  life.  If  a man  of  ordinary  rank 
marry  a royal  female,  he  must  be  killed  on  his  wife’s  grave,  if 
he  should  survive  her;  and  the  ocras,  or  personal  attendants  on 
the  king,  are  all  murdered  on  their  master’s  grave,  together  with 
many  others,  male  and  female,  of teu  amounting  to  several  thou- 
sands. 

The  labor  of  clearing  away  obstructions  in  a rankly  luxuriant 
soil  is  the  chief  employment  of  the  Ashantee  agriculturist ; and 
in  this  his  chief  instrument  is  fire ; by  means  of  which  he  both 
clears  the  ground  and  spreads  a mass  of  rich  manure  upon  the 
soil.  The  only  implement  in  use  is  a rude  hoe  ; but  this  is  suf- 
ficient in  productive  grounds,  flooded  twice  a year,  to  produce 
two  crops  of  most  kinds  of  corn,  and  an  abundant  supply  of 
yams  and  rice.  The  plantations  are  laid  out  with  considerable 
regularity,  and  the  cultivated  grounds  are  somewhat  exlensive, 
though  not  adequate  to  the  wants  of  the  consumers.  Though 
they  do  not  smelt  metals,  the  Ashantees,  like  some  others  of  the 
African  nations,  have  blacksmiths  and  goldsmiths  of  a grade 
superior  to  what  might  be  expected.  The  fineness,  variety,  and 
brilliance  of  the  native  cloths  would  not  disgrace  an  English 
loom.  They  have  also  dyers,  potters,  tanners,  and  carpenters. 
Of  the  handiwork  of  the  Ashantees  there  are  not  a few  speci- 
mens to  be  seen  in  Case  6 in  the  Ethnological  Room  of  the 
British  Museum. 

Before  the  dominion  of  the  Ashantee  king  extended  so  far, 
there  were  various  forms  of  government  among  the  people  over 
whom  he  now  bears  rule — some,  as  Fan  tee  and  Mina,  being 
republics ; while  others,  and  by  far  the  larger  number,  were 
despotisms.  Now,  all  are  alike  brought  under  the  Ashantee 
constitution — the  legislative  power  of  which  lies  professedly  in 
the  king,  an  aristocracy  consisting  of  only  four  persons,  and  the 


84 


ASHANTEE. 


assembly  of  caboceers  or  captains.  The  aristocracy  was  for- 
merly much  more  numerous,  but  the  number  has  been  grad- 
ually reduced  by  uniting  the  stool  or  seat  of  authority  of  a de- 
ceased noble  to  that  of  one  still  living,  till  the  present  result 
has  been  arrived  at.  On  all  questions  of  foreign  policy  the 
aristocracy  has  nominally  a voice  equal  to  the  king’s,  extending 
even  to  a veto  on  his  decisions  ; but  the  strong  will  of  the  chief 
ruler  always  bears  down  opposition  to  his  personal  policy.  The 
present  king,  Koffee,  is  about  thirty-live  years  of  age.  Ilis 
mother  is  the  rightful  heir  to  the  throne,  and  he  is  much  under 
her  influence. 

The  laws  are  especially  sanguinary,  including  death  in  cruel 
forms  and  mutilation.  The  aristocracy  are  exempt  from  cap- 
ital punishment,  but  they  may  be  despoiled.  The  king’s  family 
are  not,  however,  exempted  from  the  punishment  of  death  ; 
but  their  blood  must  not  be  shed.  If  this  punishment  be 
awarded  them,  they  are  drowned  in  the  Dah. 

The  public  revenue,  so  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  consists  of 
— 1st.  The  gold  of  deceased  persons,  and  the  goods  of  all  kinds 
which  may  belong  to  disgraced  nobles ; 2d.  A tax  on  slaves 
purchased  for  the  coast ; 3.1.  The  gold  mines  and  washings 
in  Sokoo,  Dinkra,  Akim,  and  Assin  ; 4th.  The  washings  of  the 
market-place  ; and  5th.  Tributes  from  conquered  states.  The 
king  is  the  great  property-owner,  and  is  the  legal  heir  of  all  his 
subjects. 

Of  religion  they  may  be  said  to  have  really  none.  Along  the 
whole  of  the  Gold  Coast,  including  Ashantee,  it  is  believed 
that  the  Great  Spirit,  after  creating  three  white  and  as  many 
black  men  and  women,  placed  before  them  a large  calabash 
and  a sealed  paper,  giving  to  the  black  race  the  choice  of  the 
two.  They  took  the  calabash,  which  contained  gold,  iron,  and 
the  choicest  productions  of  the  earth ; but  left  them  in  igno- 
rance of  their  use  and  application.  The  paper,  on  the  con- 
trary, instructed  the  white  man  in  everything ; made  him  the 
favorite  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and  gave  him  that  superiority 
which  the  negroes  readily  acknowledge.  From  this  legend  it 
appears  that  these  people  have  among  them  some  lingering  no- 
tion of  one  Supreme  Deity ; but  they  have,  notwithstanding, 
lapsed  into  the  absurdities  of  fetichism,  or  the  lowest  and 
grossest  forms  of  idolatry.  They  have  an  evil  principle  of 
whom  they  stand  in  dread ; and  one  of  the  most  solemn  cere- 
monies of  many  tribes  is  an  assembly  of  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, for  the  purpose  of  driving  the  evil  spirit  from  the  towns 
and  villages.  They  have  no  intelligent  belief  in  the  future  state 


ASHANTEE. 


85 


— kings,  priests,  and  caboceers  being  believed,  after  death,  to  re- 
side with  the  Great  Spirit  ill  ail  eternal  renewal  of  their  earthly 
state ; the  sacrifice  of  so  many  human  beings  on  the  graves 
of  their  kings  being  intended  to  supply  them  with  attendants 
in  the  other  world.  The  victims,  it  is  affirmed,  are  not  always 
unwilling,  since  they  believe  that  they  will  thus  partake  of  the 
superior  heaven  of  their  chiefs — their  own  being  at  best  merely 
a release  from  labor  in  the  house  of  some  inferior  fetich.  A 
large  number  of  charms,  omens,  lucky  and  unlucky  days,  and 
an  implicit  submission  to  the  fetich,  complete  the  superstition 
of  the  Ashantees.  There  are  many  Mahometans  among  the 
Ashantees,  some,  by  their  lighter  complexion,  being  manifestly 
of  Arabic  origin,  while  the  majority  are  not  distinguishable 
from  other  negroes.  Christian  missionaries  are  discouraged ; 
and  even  when  any  of  their  number  have  proceeded  to  Coo- 
massie  to  intercede  with  the  king  on  behalf  of  persons  doomed 
to  die,  it  has  been  at  the  imminent  risk  of  their  own  lives. 
Several  members  of  the  Basle  mission  were  imprisoned,  although 
they  went  as  traders. 

The  early  history  of  the  Ashantee  nation  is  obscure,  as  might 
be  supposed  ; but  in  1040  they  seem  to  have  been  located  in 
the  midst  of  their  present  possessions,  and  occasionally  exer- 
cising an  influence' over  the  surrounding  states  of  Akim,  Assin, 
Quahou,  and  Akeya.  For  nearly  a century  later,  the  paramount 
state  in  the  gold  countries  was  Dinkra.  At  about  that  time 
Dinkra  was  conquered,  and  thereafter  the  extension  of  Ashan- 
tee proceeded  rapidly.  One  by  one  the  different  states  between 
Volta  and  Asinee  were  subdued  ; and  in  1807,  the  invasion  of 
Fantee  brought  the  Ashantees  into  collision  with  the  British. 
Cape  Coast  Castle,  the  principal  fort  of  the  British  on  the  Gold 
coast,  was  in  the  Fantee  country,  and  held,  like  the  other 
European  forts  upon  that  coast,  not  as  a territorial  right,  but  at 
a rent  from  the  native  government.  After  the  conquest  the 
rent  was  claimed  and  paid  to  the  King  of  Ashantee  ; but  some 
difficulty  having  occurred  as  to  the  recognition  of  his  sover- 
eignty, two  embassies  (those  of  Bowdich  and  Dupuis)  were  sent 
to  the  court  of  Coomassie.  These  resulted  in  a treaty  in 
1820;  but  the  Ashantees  were  not  faithful  to  their  engage- 
ments, and  upon  remonstrance  being  made  they  declared  Avar 
against  the  British,  and  in  January,  1824,  totally  defeated  the 

fovernor  of  Cape  Coast,  at  the  head  of  one  thousand  men. 
n 1826  the  Ashantees  suffered  a decisive  defeat  from  the 
English,  and  another  treaty  was  entered  into.  In  1831  a treaty 
was  signed,  by  means  of  which  the  King  of  Ashantee  was  com- 


86 


ASHANTEE. 


polled  to  acknowledge  the  independence  of  the  Fantees  and 
other  tribes  under  British  protection. 

But  there  have  been  perpetual  heart-burnings  ever  since,  and 
finally  these  resulted  in  the  recent  war,  the  causes  of  which 
were  manifold.  Among  them  may  be  enumerated  the  con- 
stant disregard  by  the  Ashantees  of  the  treaties  formed  with 
neighboring  states  which  are  under  British  protection  ; the  re- 
sentment on  the  part  of  the  Ashantees  of  British  interference 
with  their  slave-trade ; insult,  robbery,  and  death  inflicted  by 
the  Ashantees  on  persons  trading  with  or  at  the  British  settle- 
ment at  Cape  Coast ; and  the  resort  of  the  Ashantees  to  arms 
against  the  English. 

In  the  war  lately  terminated,  the  Ashantean  army,  no  despic- 
able foe,  was  routed  and  di 


burnt;  and  the  king,  Koffee  Kalkalli,  after  much  cunning  and 
duplicity,  submitted  and  sued  for  peace.  Part  of  an  indemnity 
of  $1,000,000  has  already  been  paid ; and  a promise  is  made  that 
human  sacrifices  shall  be  abolished,  the  slave-trade  discontin- 
ued, and  honest  commerce  protected.  If  these  promises  could 
be  actually  carried  out  the  world  would  have  reason  to  con- 
gratulate itself  on  Sir  Garnet  Wolseley’s  success  ; but  as  has 
always  been  the  case  in  Africa,  the  defeat  of  a native  king 
and  the  humbling  of  the  central  power  means  political  disor- 
ganization and  ruin.  The  subject  tribes  are  said  to  be  already 
throwing  off  their  allegiance  to  King  Koffee  ; and  a few  years 
will  probably  see  the  Ashantee  kingdom  resolved  once  more 
into  the  petty  chieftainships  out  of  which  it  rose,  and  to  which 
it  seemed  to  offer  a future  containing  something  like  prog- 


dom  absolutely  broken. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

LIVINGSTONE’S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


David  Livingstone  was  born  at  Blantyre,  near  Glasgow, 
Scotland,  about  1817.  His  father  was  a small  tea-dealer  in  that 
village,  a village  entirely  dependent  on  extensive  cotton  manu- 
factories belonging  to  the  firm  of  Monteith  and  Company.  His 
grandfather  had  been  a clerk  in  the  works,  having  removed  to 
the  lowlands  from  Ulva,  in  the  Hebrides,  where  he  and  his  an- 
cestors had  for  many  generations  been  farmers.  The  subject 
of  the  present  notice,  and  the  other  members  of  the  family  to 
wh!eh  he  belonged,  were  educated  in  connection  with  the  Kirk 
of  Scotland ; but  their  father  afterwards  left  it,  and  during  the 
last  twenty  years  of  his  life  held  the  office  of  deacon  in  an  In- 
dependent church  in  the  neighboring  town  of  Hamilton.  He 
died  in  1856,  while  his  famous  son  was  on  his  way  below 
Zumbo,  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  expecting  no  greater  pleasure 
on  his  return  home,  than  sitting  by  the  old  cottage  fire  and  re- 
citing his  adventures  to  his  parents.  His  mother  was  a pious 
woman,  industrious  and  careful,  and  possessed  of  much  sterling 
common-sense ; she  won  the  respect  of  all  who  knew  her. 

At  the  age  of  ten  David  was  put  into  the  factory  as  a 
“piecer,”  to  aid  by  his  earnings  in  supporting  the  family. 
'With  part  of  his  first  week’s  wages  he  purchased  a copy  of 
Ruddiman’s  “ Rudiments  of  Latin,”  a class-book  at  that  time, 
and  long  afterwards  extensively  used  in  Scotland.  He  prose- 
cuted his  study  of  the  language  for  several  years  with  unabated 
ardor  at  an  evening  school  in  the  village,  which  met  between 
the  hours  of  eight  and  ten.  The  dictionary  part  of  his  labor 
was  continued  till  twelve  o’clock.  He  had  to  be  in  the  factory 
by  six  in  the  morning,  and  to  continue  at  his  work,  with  inter- 
vals for  breakfast  and  dinner,  till  eight  o’clock  at  night.  In 
this  way  he  read  many  classic  authors.  Great  pains  had  been 
taken  by  his  parents  to  instil  the  doctrines  of  Christianity  into 
his  mind,  and  at  an  early  age  he  resolved  to  devote  himself  to 
the  missionary  life.  Turning  this  idea  over  in  his  mind,  he 
felt  that  to  be  a pioneer  of  Christianity  in  China  might  help  to 
benefit  some  small  portion  of  that  immense  empire ; and  there- 


88 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


fore  lie  set  himself  to  obtain  a medical  education,  a knowledge  of 
medicine  being  an  almost  indispensable  qualification  for  mis- 
sionary success  among  the  Chinese.  Limited  as  his  time  was,  lie 
found  opportunities  of  botanizing  for  miles  around  his  home,  and 
soon  became  acquainted  with  most  of  the  plants  of  Lanarkshire. 

In  his  nineteenth  year,  he  was  promoted,  in  the  factory,  to 
“ a pair  of  wheels,”  i.e.,  he  became  a spinner.  The  work  was 
hard  for  a slim,  loose-jointed  lad,  but  it  was  well  paid  for,  and 
it  enabled  him  to  support  himself  while  attending  medical 
classes  at  the  University,  and  also  divinity  lectures  at  a theo- 
logical hall  by  Dr.  Wardlaw,  both  in  Glasgow.  He  worked 
with  his  hands  in  summer,  and  was  a regular  student  in  both 
of  these  branches  in  winter.  He  never  received  a farthing  of 
aid  from  any  one,  and  would  have  accomplished  his  purpose  of 
qualifying  himself  for  going  to  China  as  a missionary  entirely 
by  his  own  efforts,  had  not  some  friends  advised  him  to  join 
the  London  Missionary  Society  as  a student  preparing  for  mis- 
sion-work. That  Society  sends  to  the  heathen  “ neither  episco- 
pacy, nor  presbyterianism,  nor  independency,  but  the  Gospel 
and  as  this  exactly  agreed  with  his  own  idea  of  what  a Mis- 
sionary Society  ought  to  do,  he  offered  himself,  and  was  ac- 
cepted. He  was  now  at  liberty  to  devote  himself  wholly  to 
snch  studies  as  might  prepare  him  for  his  desired  and  intended 
future.  While  engaged  in  manual  labor  he  was  accustomed 
to  carry  forward  his  reading  by  placing  a book  on  a portion 
of  the  spinning-jenny,  so  that  he  could  catch  sentence  after  sen- 
tence as  he  passed  at  his  work,  lie  passed  his  examination 
with  credit,  and  was  admitted  a Licentiate  of  the  Faculty  of 
Physicians  and  Surgeons  at  Glasgow. 

But  though  now  qualilied  for  his  original  plan,  the  opium 
war  was  raging,  and  it  was  not  deemed  expedient  that  he 
should  proceed  to  China.  He  had  hoped  to  gain  admission 
into  that  empire,  then  closed  against  Europeans,  by  means  of 
the  healing  art;  but  there  being  no  prospect  of  an  early  peace 
with  the  Chinese,  and,  as.  another  inviting  field  was  presenting 
itself  by  means  of  the  labors  of  Mr.  Moffat,  he  was  induced 
to  turn  his  thoughts  to  Africa;  and,  after  a more  extended 
course  of  theological  training  in  England,  he  embarked  for 
Africa 'in  184:0,  and,  after  a voyage  of  three  months,  reached 
Cape  Town.  He  spent  but  a short  time  there,  and  started  for 
the  interior,  going  round  by  the  Algoa  Bay,  and  for  the  follow- 
ing sixteen  years  of  his  life,  viz.,  from  1840  to  1856,  labored 
in  medical  and  missionary  efforts  for  the  good  of  the  people, 
without  cost  to  any  of  them. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


89 


The  instructions  which  Livingstone  had  received  from  the 
Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  led  him,  as  soon  as 
he  had  readied  Knrnman,  the  farthest  inland  station  of  the 
Society,  to  turn  his  attention  to  the  north.  Waiting  only  to  re^ 
cruit  the  oxen,  he  proceeded,  along  with  another  missionary,  to 
the  Baku&ia,  or  Bakwain,  country,  and  found  Sechele,  with  his 
tribe,  located  at  Shokuane.  The  objects  he  had  in  view  were 
not  to  be  accomplished  by  a mere  visit  like  this  ; he  therefore 
returned  to  Kuruinan,  that  he  might  prepare  for  going  onwards 
into  the  interior.  lie  remained  three  months  at  Kuril  man,  and 
then  proceeded  to  a place  about  lifteen  miles  south  of  Shoku&ne, 
called  Lepelole  (now  Litnbaruba).  Here,  in  order  to  familiarize 
himself  with  the  language,  he  shut  himself  out  from  all  Euro- 
pean society  for  about  six  months,  and  obtained  by  this  means 
much  knowledge  of  the  habits,  modes  of  thought,  laws,  and 
language  of  that  section  of  the  Bechnanas,  or  Bakwains — knowl- 
edge which  was  of  incalculable  use  to  him  during  all  his  sub- 
sequent career.  In  this  second  journey  to  Lepelole  he  began 
preparations  for  a settlement,  by  making  a canal  to  irrigate  the 
gardens,  from  a stream  at  that  time  flowing  copiously.  Re- 
turning to  Knrnman,  in  order  to  bring  his  baggage  to  the  pro- 
posed settlement,  he  was  followed  by  the  news  that  the  tribe 
of  Bakwains,  who  had  shown  themselves  so  friendly  to  him, 
had  been  driven  from  Lepeldle,  during  his  absence,  by  the  Baro- 
longs,  so  that  his  project  of  settling  liere  was  at  an  end.  He 
was  obliged  to  start  again  in  search  of  a suitable  locality  for  a 
mission  station,  and  ultimately  selected  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Mabotsa  (lat.  25°  14'  S.,  long.  26°  30'  E.)  as  the  site  of  his  fu- 
ture home  and  work ; and  thither  he  removed  in  1843. 

The  people  here  were  much  troubled  by  lions,  and,  soon  after 
his  settlement  among  them,  he  went  out  with  a party  of  the 
natives,  in  search  of  these  dangerous  animals,  that  he  might 
encourage  them  to  rid  themselves,  if  possible,  of  their  unwel- 
come visits  to  the  village  and  to  the  cattle  kraals.  His  humane 
and  benevolent  willingness  to  befriend  and  help  those  among 
whom  he  was  living  almost  cost  him  his  life. 

“ We  found  the  lions,”  he  says,  “ on  a small  hill  about  a quarter 
of  a mile  in  length,  and  covered  with  trees.  A circle  of  men 
was  formed  round  it,  and  they  gradually  closed  up,  ascending 
pretty  near  to  each  other.  Being  down  below  on  the  plain 
with  a uative  schoolmaster,  named  Mebalwe,  a most  excellent 
man,  I saw  one  of  the  lions  sitting  on  a piece  of  rock  widiin 
the  nowT  closed  circle  of  men.  Mebalwe  fired  at  him  before  I 
could,  and  the  ball  struck  the  rock  on  which  the  animal  was 


90 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


sittting.  He  bit  at  the  spot  struck,  as  a dog  does  at  a stick  or 
stone  thrown  at  him  ; then  leaping  away,  broke  through  the 
opening  circle,  and  escaped  unhurt.  The  men  were  afraid  to 
attack  him,  perhaps  on  account  of  their  belief  in  witchcraft. 
When  the  circle  was  reformed,  we  saw  two  other  lions  in  it; 
but  we  were  afraid  to  fire  lest  we  should  strike  the  men,  and 
they  allowed  the  beasts  to  burst  through  also.  If  the  Bakatla 
had  acted  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  they  would 
have  speared  the  lions  in  their  attempt  to  get  out.  Seeing  we 
could  not  get  them  to  kill  one  of  the  lions,  we  bent  our  foot- 
steps toward  the  village ; in  going  round  the  end  of  the  hill, 
however,  I saw  one  of  the  beasts  sitting  on  a piece  of  rock  as 
before,  but  this  time  he  had  a little  bush  in  front.  Being 
about  thirty  yards  off,  I took  a good  aim  at  his  body  through 
the  bush,  and  fired  both  barrels  into  it.  The  men  then  called 
out,  ‘ He  is  shot,  he  is  shot ! ’ Others  cried,  ‘ lie  has  been  shot 
by  another  man  too  ; let  us  go  to  him  ! ’ I did  not  see  any  one 
else  shoot  at  him,  but  I saw  the  lion’s  tail  erected  in  anger  be- 
hind the  bush,  and,  turning  to  the  people,  said,  ‘Stop  a little, 
till  I load  again.’  When  in  the  act  of  ramming  down  the 
bullets.  I heard  a shout.  Starting,  and  looking  half  round,  I 
saw  the  lion  just  in  the  act  of  springing  upon  me.  I was  upon 
a little  height;  he  caught  my  shoulder  as  he  sprang,  and  both 
came  to  the  ground  below  together.  Growling  horribly  close 
to  my  ear,  he  shook  me  as  a terrier-dog  does  a rat.  The  shock 
produced  a stupor  similar  to  that  which  seems  to  be  felt  by  a 
mouse  after  the  first  shake  of  the  cat.  It  caused  a sort  of 
dreaminess,  in  which  there  was  no  sense  of  pain  nor  feeling  of 
terror,  though  quite  conscious  of  all  that  was  happening.  It 
was  like  what  patients  partially  under  the  influence  of  chloro- 
form describe,  who  see  all  the  operation,  but  feel  not  the  knife. 
This  singular  condition  was  not  the  result  of  any  mental  pro- 
cess. The  shake  annihilated  fear,  and  allowed  no  sense  of 
horror  in  looking  round  at  the  beast.  This  peculiar  state  is 
probably  produced  in  all  animals  killed  by  the  carnivora  ; and 
if  so,  is  a merciful  provision  by  our  benevolent  Creator  for 
lessening  the  pain  of  death.  Turning  round  to  relieve  myself 
of  the  weight,  as  he  had  one  paw  on  the  back  of  my  head,  I 
saw  his  eyes  directed  to  Mebalwe,  who  was  trying  to  shoot  him 
at  a distance  of  ten  or  fifteen  yards.  Ilis  gun,  a flint  one, 
missed  fire  in  both  barrels;  the  lion  immediately  left  me,  and, 
attacking  Mebalwe,  bit  his  thigh.  Another  man,  whose  life  I 
had  saved  before,  after  he  had  been  tossed  by  a buffalo,  at- 
tempted to  spear  the  lion  while  he  was  biting  'Mebalwe.  He 


LIVINGSTONE  UNDER  THE  LION. 


LIVim STORE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


91 


left  Meb&lwe  and  caught  this  man  by  the  shoulder,  but  at  that 
moment  the  bullets  he  had  received  took  effect,  and  lie  fell  down 
dead.  The  whole  was  the  work  of  a few  moments,  and  must  have 
been  his  paroxysms  of  dying  rage.  In  order  to  take  out  the 
charm  from  him,  the  Bakatla  on  the  following  day  made  a huge 
bonfire  over  the  carcass,  which  was  declared  to  be  that  of  the  larg- 
est lion  they  had  ever  seen.  Besides  crunching  the  bone  into  splin- 
ters, he  left  eleven  teeth  wounds  on  the  upper  part  of  my  arm.” 

The  wound  from  this  encounter  soon  healed,  though  to  the 
end  of  his  life  Livingstone  occasionally  felt  the  effects  of  the 
gnawing  then  received. 

lie  now  attached  himself  to  the  tribe  called  Baku^n a,  or 
Bakwains,  their  chief  Sechele  then  living  with  liis  people,  as 
has  been  said,  at  a place  called  Shokuane.  From  the  first  he 
was  struck  with  this 
man’s  intelligence,  and 
the  missionary  and  the 
chief  were  mutually 
drawn  to  each  other,  and 
began  a friendship  which 
years  only  more  strongly 
confirmed.  This  remark- 
able man  afterwards  em- 
braced Christianity,  and 
became  a useful  ex- 
pounder of  its  doctrines 
to  his  people. 

The  place  in  which  he 
was  first  settled  with  the 
Back  wains  is  called 
Clionu&ne,  and  it  hap- 
pened that  during  the 
first  year  of  his  residence 
there  it  was  visited  with 
one  of  those  droughts 
which  occur  from  time  to  time  in  even  the  most  favored  districts  - 
of  Africa.  This,  by  the  absence  of  both  men  and  women  in 
search  of  food  as  well  as  water,  greatly  interfered  with  the  suc- 
cess of  the  mission.  Another  adverse  influence  was  the  vicinity 
of  the  Boers  of  the  Cashan  Mountains.  These  are  not  to  be 
confounded  with  the  Cape  Colonists,  who  sometimes  pass  by 
the  same  name.  The  word  Boer  simply  means  farmer;  but  the 
people  now  referred  to  were  persons  who  had,  ort  various  pre- 
texts, fled  from  English  law,  and  who  had  been  joined  by  Eng- 


92 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


lisli  deserters,  and  every  other  variety  of  bad  character,  in  their 
distant  localities.  These  people  attacked  the  surrounding 
tribes,  and  made  slaves  of  as  many  as  they  could  capture,  pre- 
ferring the  young. 

The  chief  Sechele,  notwithstanding  his  intelligence  and 
superiority  in  many  respects,  had  himself  been  a noted  rain- 
maker. lie  often  assured  the  missionary,  afterwards,  that  he 
had  found  it  more  difficult  to  give  up  his  faith  in  that  than  in 
anything  else  which  Christianity  required  him  to  abjure.  I>ut 
rain  would  not  fall  at  Chonuane,  and  the  people  believed  that 
the  missionary  had  bound  Sechele  by  some  magic  spell ; he 
was  accordingly  visited  by  deputations  in  the  evenings, — old 
counsellors  entreating  him  to  allow  Sechele  to  make  only  a few 
showers,  and  saying,  “ The  corn  will  die  if  you  refuse,  and  we 
shall  become  scattered.  Only  let.  him  make  rain  this  once,  and 
we  shall  all,  men,  women,  and  children,  come  to  the  school  and 
sing  and  pray  as  long  as  you  please.”  It  was  distressing  to 
appear  hard-hearted  to  them ; but  there  was  no  help  for  it. 
The  Bakwains  believed  that  there  must  be  some  connection  be- 
tween the  presence  of  “ God’s  Word”  in  their  town  and  these 
successive  and  distressing  droughts,  and  they  looked  with  no 
good-will  at  the  church-bell,  but  still  they  invariably  treated 
the  strangers  with  kindness.  Livingstone  says : I am  not 

aware  of  ever  having  had  an  enemy  in  the  tribe.  The  only 
avowed  cause  of  dislike  was  expressed  by  a very  influential  and 
sensible  man,  the  uncle  of  Sechele.  4 We  like  you  as  well  as 
if  you  had  been  born  among  us ; you  are  the  only  white  man 
we  can  become  familiar  with  (thoaela) ; but  we  wish  yon  to 
give  up  that  everlasting  preaching  and  praying ; we  cannot  be- 
come familiar  with  that  at  all.  You  see  we  never  get  rain, 
while  those  tribes  who  never  pray  as  we  do  obtain  abundance.’ 
This  was  a fact;  and  we  often  saw  it  raining  on  the  hills  ten 
miles  off,  while  it  would  not  look  at  ns  4 even  with  one  eye.’  If 
the  prince  of  the  power  of  the  air  had  no  band  in  scorching  us 
up,  1 fear  I often  gave  him  the  credit  of  doing  so.” 

Livingstone  pointed  out  to  the  chief  that  the  only  feasible  way 
of  watering  the  gardens  was  to  select  some  never-failing  river, 
make  a canal,  and  irrigate  the  adjacent  lands.  This  suggestion 
was  adopted,  and  the  whole  tribe  moved  to  the  Kolobeng,  a 
stream  about  forty  miles  distant.  The  experiment  succeeded 
admirably  for  the  first  year.  The  Bakwains  made  the  canal 
and  dam  in  exchange  for  the  missionary’s  labor  in  assisting  to 
build  a square  house  for  their  chief.  T^hey  also  built  their  own 
school  under  his  superintendence.  The  missionary’s  house  at 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


93 


Kolobeng  was  the  third  which  Livingstone  had  reared  with  his 
own  hands.  A native  smith  had  taught  him  to  weld  iron  ; and 
having  improved  by  scraps  of  information  in  that  line  from 
Mr.  Moffat,  and  also  in  carpentering  and  gardening,  he  was  be- 
coming handy  at  almost  any  trade,  besides  doctoring  and 
preaching;  and  as  his  wife  could  make  candles,  soap,  and 
clothes,  they  may  be  considered  to  have  possessed  between  them 
the  indispensable  accomplishments  of  a missionary  family  in 
Central  Africa — namely,  the  husband  to  be  a Jack-of -all-trades 
without  doors,  and  the  wife  a maid-of-all-work  within. 

But  in  the  second  year  no  rain  fell;  and  in  the  third  the 
same  extraordinary  drought  continued.  The  same  difficulties 
which  had  formerly  retarded  the  mission  were  again  experi- 
enced; and  the  mission  family  itself  was  dependent  for  sup- 
plies of  corn  on  Kura  man,  and  sometimes  were  at  the  point  of 
starvation. 

In  trying  to  benefit  the  tribes  of  the  Caslian  Mountains, 
Livingstone  had  twice  performed  a journey  of  about  three 
hundred  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Kolobeng.  He  now  desired 
to  visit  the  tribes  farther  into  the  interior. 

The  exact  position  of  the  Lake  N garni  had,  for  at  least  half 
a century,  been  correctly  pointed  out  by  the  natives,  who  had 
visited  it  when  rains  were  more  copious  in  the  desert  than  they 
have  been  in  recent  times.  It  was  clear  that  the  only  chance 
of  reaching  it,  therefore,  was  by  going  round  the  Desert  rather 
than  crossing  it.  He  communicated  his  purpose  to  Colonel 
Steele,  then  at  Madras,  who  in  turn  made  it  known  to  Mr.  Yard  on 
and  Mr.  Oswell,  whose  friendship  he  (Livingstone)  had  gained 
during  their  African  travels  and  hunting.  Mr.  Oswell  deter- 
mined to  accompany  him.  Livingstone  had  previously  arranged 
to  pay  for  his  guides  by  the  loan  of  his  wagon  to  Seehele,  and  by 
the  bringing  back  of  whatever  ivory  he  might  obtain  from  the 
chief  at  the  lake.  When  Mr.  Oswell  arrived,  bringing  Mr. 
Murray  with  him,  he  undertook  to  defray  the  entire  expenses 
of  the  guides,  which  he  generously  did.  The  Kalahari  Desert 
extends  from  the  Orange  River  in  the  south,  lat.  29°,  to  Lake 
Ngami,  and  from  about  24°  east  Ion.  to  near  the  west  coast. 
Large  spaces  of  it  are  well  covered  with  vegetation.  It  is  very 
Hat;  and  prodigious  herds  of  certain  antelopes  which  require 
little  or  no  water  roam  over  the  trackless  plains.  The  inhabi- 
tants are  Bushmen,  or  Hottentots,  and  Bakalahari. 

Livingstone,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Oswell  and  Murray, 
started  for  the  Lake  Ngami  on  the  1st  of  June,  1849  Pro- 
ceeding northwards,  they  passed  through  a range  of  tree- 


94 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


covered  hills  to  Shoku&ne,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Bak- 
wains,  and  soon  afterwards  entered  on  the  route  to  the  Bamang- 
wato  Mountains.  The  adjacent  country  is  flat,  but  covered 
with  vegetation;  the  trees  generally  being  a kind  of  acacia. 
The  soil  is  sandy.  Boatlanama,  the  next  station,  is  a beautiful 
spot,  in  a region  generally  dry.  The  wells  are  deep,  but  they 
were  well  filled.  There  are  near  them  a few  villages  of  Baka- 
lahari. 

Lopepe  comes  next.  At  Masliiie  there  is  a never-failing  sup- 
ply of  water ; while  at  Lopepe,  the  station  before  it,  the  coun- 
try appears  to  become  gradually  drier  every  season.  Leaving 
the  ordinary  track,  and  striking  away  into  the  desert,  there  is  a 
well  called  Lobotani,  about  N.YV\  of  Bamangwato,  and  beyond 
it  at  some  distance  a real  Kalahari  fountain,  called  Serotli. 
The  country  around  is  covered  with  trees.  The  soil  is  sandy, 
and  water  requires  to  be  dug  for — but  the  digging  usually  suc- 
ceeds. The  Bakalaliari  get  all  their  supplies  of  water  by  this 
means. 

Shortly  after  entering  the  desert,  seventeen  of  the  oxen  be- 
longing to  its  expedition  ran  away,  and  went  right  into  the 
hands  of  the  chief  Sekomi,  who  was  unfriendly  to  Livingstone’s 
enterprise,  inasmuch  as  he  wished  to  monopolize,  to  his  own  ad- 
vantage, the  trade  in  ivory  with  Sebituane’s  country,  which  the 
travellers  meant  to  see.  lie  sent  back  the  oxen,  however, 
though  with  a message  still  dissuading  them.  Their  guide  was 
Ramotobi,  who  had  fled  from  Sekomi’s  tribe,  and  taken  refuge 
with  Sechele.  Fugitives  are  usually  well  received.  Around 
Serotli  the  country  is  perfectly  flat,  and  the  whole  scene  is  char- 
acterized by  a monotonous  sameness.  Oswell  and  Murray,  on 
one  occasion,  went  out  to  get  an  eland ; and  although  one  of 
the  Bakalaliari  was  with  them,  there  were  so  few  distinguishing 
way-marks  that  they  completely  lost  themselves,  and  did  not 
regain  the  wagons  until  next  day. 

Travelling  in  this  locality,  in  the  soft  white  sand,  is  most  trying 
both  to  man  and  beast.  Thirst  especially  is  most  distressing  to 
the  cattle ; therefore,  to  save  the  horses,  Murray  with  a few  men 
took  them  forward,  that  they  might  sooner  have  water,  while 
Livingstone  and  Oswell  brought  on  the  wagons.  The  oxen 
suffered  terribly,  but  by  and  by  water  was  reached — a pool  of 
rain-water.  The  poor  cattle  rushed  in  till  they  were  up  to  the 
throat,  and  drank  with  enjoyment  till  their  collapsed  sides  dis- 
tended as  if  they  would  burst.  This  pool  is  called  Mathuluani. 

The  highway  from  this  point  is  the  dry  bed  of  the  river  Mo- 
koko.  Ho  more  thirst  is  now  to  be  feared.  The  first  palmyra 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS . 


95 


Ealms  which  our  travellers 
ad  seen  were  here.  They 
were  in  a clump,  and  twen- 
ty-six in  number.  The  an- 
cient Mokoko  must  have 
been  joined,  in  former 
times,  by  other  rivers,  for 
its  bed  becomes  very  broad 
below  this,  and  ultimately 
spreads  out  into  a very  large 
lake,  of  which  the  Lake 
Ngami  formed  only  a part. 

Leaving  the  Mokoko,  the 
travellers  found  at  a dis- 
tance of  eight  miles  a foun- 
tain called  Nchokotsa, — 
near  which  there  is  a large 
number  of  salt-pans,  cov- 
ered with  an  efflorescence 
of  lime.  The  mirage  over 
these  is  frequently  marvel- 
lous. Not  a particle  of 
imagination  is  necessary 
for  realizing  the  picture  of 
large  bodies  of  water.  Even 
the  cattle,  horses,  dogs,  and 
Hottentots  ran  ofE  to  the 
deceitful  pools. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  Liv- 
ingstone and  Oswell  went 
forward  on  horseback  tow- 
ards what  they  supposed  to 
be  the  lake,  but  were  dis- 
appointed ; but  by  and  by 
they  came  to  the  veritable 
waters  of  the  Zouga,  and 
found  it  to  be  a consider- 
able river  running  to  the  N. 
E.  A village  of  Bakurutse 
lay  on  the  opposite  bank. 
The  people  were  friendly, 
and  informed  them  that 
this  water  came  out  of  the 
Ngami.  It  might  be  a 


96 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


moon,  they  said,  before  they  should  reach  it ; but  they  had 
the  River  Zouga  at  their  feet,  and  by  following  it  they  should 
at  last  reach  the  broad  water. 

When  they  had  travelled  up  the  bank  of  this  beautiful  river 
about  ninety-six  miles  from  the  point  at  which  they  had  lirst 
struck  it,  and  understood  that  they  were  still  a considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  lake,  they  left  all  their  oxen  and  wagons— ex- 
cept Mr.  Oswell’s,  which  was  the  smallest,  and  one  team — at 
Ngabisanc,  that  they  might  be  recruited  for  the  home  journey, 
while  they  themselves  made  a push  for  their  destination.  They 
were  received  in  a friendly  spirit  by  the  Bakoba,  who  call 
themselves  Bayeiye,  as  they  proceeded  on  their  way.  These 
people  never  fight,  and  their  peaceful  disposition  has  been 
taken  advantage  of  by  all  the  hordes  living  around  them. 
Living  as  they  do  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  the  Bakoba  or 
Bayeiye  make  extensive  use  of  canoes,  and  those  canoes  are 
craft  of  a most  peculiar  description  : they  are  hollowed  out  of 
the  trunks  of  single  trees  by  means  of  iron  adzes ; and  if  the 
tree  has  a bend,  so  has  the  canoe.  The  men  are  very  fond  of 
their  canoes,  and  spend  much  of  their  time  in  them.  They 
say,  “ On  land  you  have  lions,  serpents,  hyenas,  and  your  ene- 
mies ; but  in  your  canoe,  nothing  can  harm  you.”  They  there- 
fore prefer  sleeping  in  them. 

While  ascending  this  beautifully  wooded  river,  the  party 
came  to  a large  stream  flowing  into  it.  This  was  the  river 
Tamunak’le.  Livingstone,  being  in  one  of  the  canoes,  prefer- 
ring that  mode  of  travelling,  inquired  whence  it  came.  “ Oh, 
from  a country  full  of  rivers — so  many  no  can  tell  their  num- 
ber— and  full  of  large  trees  ! ” The  country  beyond  was  thus 
seen  not  to  be  the  great  sandy  flat  of  the  ancient  maps,  and 
from  that  time,  the  missionary-explorer  dreamed  of  the  pros- 
pect of  being  able  to  open  up  a highway  into  populous  lands, 
which  might  be  reached  by  boats,  and  to  whose  inhabitants 
might  be  communicated  the  benefits  accruing  from  civilization, 
the  arts,  commerce,  and  religion. 

Twelve  days  after  they  had  left  their  wagons  at  Ngabisane, 
they  came  to  the  north-east  end  of  Lake  Isgami : and  on  the 
1st  of  August,  1849,  they  went  down  together  to  the  broad 
part,  “ and,  for  the  first  time,”  says  Livingstone,  “ this  fine-look- 
ing sheet  of  water  was  beheld  by  Europeans.  The  direction 
of  the  lake  seemed  to  be  N.N.E.  and  S.S.W.  by  compass.  The 
southern  portion  is  said  to  bend  round  to  the  west,  and  to  re- 
ceive the  Teoughe  (Teoge)  from  the  north  at  its  north-west  ex- 
tremity. We  could  detect  no  horizon  where  we  stood,  looking 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


97 


S.S.W.,  nor  could  we  form  any  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  lake 
except  from  the  reports  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  district ; and, 
as  they  professed  to  go  round  it  in  three  days,  allowing  twenty- 
five  miles  a day,  that  would  make  it  seventy-five,  or  less  than 
seventy  geographical  miles  in  circumference.  Other  guesses 
have  been  made  since  as  to  its  circumference,  ranging  between 
seventy  and  one  hundred  miles.”  It  is  shallow.  The  water  is 
fresh  when  full — brackish  when  low.  It  can  never,  on  account 
of  its  want  of  depth,  be  of  great  value  as  a commercial  high- 
way. The  region  is  low,  as  shown  by  one  of  Newman’s  baro- 
metric thermometers,  only  between  2071°  and  206°,  giving  an 
elevation  of  not  much  more  than  two  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  They  had  descended  more  than  two  thousand 
feet  in  coming  to  it  from  Kolobeng. 

“My  chief  object  in  coming  to  the  lake,”  says  Livingstone,  “was 
to  visit  Sebituane,  the  great  chief  of  the  Makololo,  who  was  re- 
ported tolive  some  two  hundred  miles 'beyond.  We  had  now  come 
to  a half-tribe  of  the  Bamangwato,  called  Batauana.  Their  chief 
was  a young  man  named  Lechulatebe.  Sebituane  had  con- 
quered his  father  Moremi,  and  Lechulatebe  received  part  of  his 
education  while  a captive  among  the  Bayeiye.  His  uncle,  a 
sensible  man,  ransomed  him ; and  having  collected  a number 
of  families  together,  abdicated  the  chieftainship  in  favor  of  his 
nephew.  As  Lechulatebe  had  just  come  into  power,  he  imag- 
ined that  the  proper  way  of  showing  his  abilities  was  to  act  di- 
rectly contrary  to  everything  that  his  uncle  advised.  When  we 
came,  the  uncle  recommended  him  to  treat  us  handsomely, 
therefore  the  hopeful  youth  presented  ns  with  a goat  only.  It 
ought  to  have  been  an  ox.  So  I proposed  to  my  companions 
to  loose  the  animal  and  let  him  go,  as  a hint  to  his  master. 
They,  however,  did  not  wish  to  insult  him.  I,  being  more  of 
a native,  and  familiar  with  their  customs,  knew  that  this 
shabby  present  was  an  insult  to  us.  We  wished  to  purchase 
some  goats  or  oxen ; Lechulatebe  offered  us  elephants’  tusks. 
‘ No,  we  cannot  eat  these  ; we  want  something  to  till  our  stom- 
achs.’ ‘ Neither  can  I ; but  I hear  you  white  men  are  all  very 
fond  of  these  bones,  so  I offer  them  ; I want  to  put  the  goats 
into  my  own  stomach.’  A trader,  who  accompanied  ns,  was 
then  purchasing  ivory  at  the  rate  of  ten  good  large  tusks  for  a 
musket  worth  thirteen  shillings.  They  were  called  ‘bones;’ 
and  I myself  saw  eight  instances  in  which  the  tusks  had  been 
left  to  rot  with  the  other  bones  where  the  elephant  fell.  The 
Bataudna  never  had  a chance  of  a market  before ; but,  in  less 
than  two  years  after  our  discovery,  not  a man  of  them  could  be 
7 


98 


L IV1NG STONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


found  who  was  not  keenly  alive  to  the  great  value  of  the 
article. 

“ On  the  day  after  our  arrival  at  the  lake,  I applied  to  Lech- 
ulatebe  for  guides  to  Sebituane.  As  he  was  much  afraid  of  that 
chief,  he  objected,  fearing  lest  other  white  men  should  go 
thither  also,  and  give  Sebituane  guns;  whereas,  if  the  traders 
came  to  him  alone,  the  possession  of  fire-arms  would  give  him 
such  a superiority,  that  Sebituane  would  be  afraid  of  him.  It 
was  in  vain  to  explain  that  I would  inculcate  peace  between 
them— that  Sebituane  had  been  a father  to  him  and  Scchelc, 
and  was  as  anxious  to  see  me,  as  he,  Lecliulatebe,  had  been. 
He  offered  to  give  me  as  much  ivory  as  I needed  without  going 
to  that  chief ; but  when  I refused  to  take  any,  he  unwillingly  con- 
sented to  give  me  guides.  Next  day,  however,  when  Oswell 
and  I were  prepared  to  start,  with  the  horses  only,  we  re- 
ceived a senseless  refusal ; and  like  Sekomi,  who  had  thrown 
obstacles  in  our  way,  he  sent  men  to  Bayeiye  with  orders  to  re- 
fuse us  a passage  across  the  river.  Trying  hard  to  form  a raft 
at  a narrow  part,  I worked  many  hours  in  the  water;  but  the 
dry  wood  was  so  wrorm-eaten  that  it  would  not  bear  the  weight 
of  a single  person.  I was  not  then  aware  of  the  number  of  al- 
ligators which  exist  in  the  Zouga,  and  never  think  of  my  labor 
in  the  water  without  feeling  thankful  that  I escaped  their  jaws. 
The  season  was  now  far  advanced  ; and  as  Mr.  Oswell,  with  his 
wonted  generous  feelings,  volunteered,  on  the  spot,  to  go  down 
to  the  Cape  and  bring  up  a boat,  we  resolved  to  make  our  way 
south  again.” 

Coming  down  the  Zouga,  they  had  time  to  look  at  its  banks, 
which  are  beautiful.  The  trees  are  magnificent.  Near  its  con- 
fluence with  the  lake  there  were  some  of  enormous  size.  The 
largest  of  two  immense  trees  observed  here  was  70  feet  in  girth. 
There  are  two  kinds  of  cotton  in  the  country — the  Masliona 
convert  it  into  cloth,  and  dye  it  by  means  of  wild  indigo,  which 
abounds.  Elephants  were  found  in  prodigious  numbers,  and 
many  hippopotami.  Fish  of  ten  kinds  are  to  be  found  in  the 
river  ; and  the  Ba}reiye  live  chiefly  on  fish. 

Having  returned  to  Kolobeng,  his  station  as  a missionary, 
Livingstone  remained  there  till  April,  1850,  when  he  again  left 
for  the  purpose  of  visiting  Sebituane.  He  was  this  time  ac- 
companied by  his  wife  and  three  children,  and  by  the  chief 
Sechele,  who  now  possessed  a wagon  of  his  own.  They  meant 
to  cross  the  Zouga  at  its  lower  end,  to  proceed  up  the  northern 
bank  as  far  as  the  Tamunak’le,  and  then  to  ascend  that  river  to 
visit  Sebituane  in  the  north.  Sechele  wanted  to  visit  Lechula- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


99 


tcbe,  which  lie  did,  and  the  rest  of  the  party  proceeded  along 
the  northern  woody  bank  of  the  Zouga,  with  great  labor,  hav- 
ing to  cut  down  many  trees  to  enable  the  wagons  to  pass.  Their 
losses  by  the  falling  of  their  oxen  into  pits  w^ere  very  heavy. 
The  Baveiye  assisted  them  in  the  most  friendly  manner.  On 
approaching  the  confluence  of  the  Tamunak’le  they  were  in- 
formed that  the  fly  called  “ tsetse  ” abounded  on  its  banks.  The 
bite  of  the  tsetse  is  fatal  to  horses  and  oxen,  and  they  were 
obliged  reluctantly  to  recross  the  Zouga. 

They  then  learned  that  a party  of  Englishmen  who  had  come 
to  the  lake  for  ivory  were  all  laid  low  by  fever ; and  they  went 
sixty  miles,  with  all  speed,  to  render  assistance.  They  were 
grieved  to  find  that  Mr.  Alfred  Ryder,  an  enterprising  young 
artist  who  had  come  to  make  sketches  of  the  country,  and  or 
the  lake  immediately  after  its  discovery,  had  died  before  their 
arrival.  The  others  happily  recovered.  Sechele  used  all  his 
powers  of  persuasion  with  Lecliulatebe  to  induce  him  to  furnish 
guides  to  enable  Livingstone  to  visit  Sebituane  on  ox-back, 
while  Mrs.  Livingstone  and  the  children  might  remain  at  Lake 
Ngami.  Livingstone  had  a superior  London- made  gun,  on 
which  he  placed  great  value.  The  chief  took  a strong  liking 
to  it ; and  it  was  at  last  agreed  that  he  should  have  it,  and  that 
the  wife  and  children  of  the  traveller  should  remain  with  the 
chief,  while  he  himself  proceeded  on  his  journey.  But  next 
morning  two  of.  the  children  were  seized  with  fever,  and,  on  the 
day  following,  all  their  servants  were  ill  of  the  same  disease ; they 
were  compelled  therefore  to  forego  their  original  purpose,  and 
to  start  for  the  purer  air  of  the  Desert.  Some  mistake  had  oc- 
curred in  the  arrangement  with  Oswell,  whom  they  met  on  the 
Zouga  oil  their  return.  He  was  disappointed,  having  hoped  to 
overtake  them  and  proceed  with  his  former  fellow-traveller ; 
and  he  devoted  the  remaining  portion  of  the  season  to  elephant- 
hunting, in  which  he  was  so  successful  that  he  was  looked  upon 
as  a magician  by  the  natives. 

This  second  attempt  to  reach  the  country  of  Sebituane  having 
failed,  Livingstone  returned  to  his  work  at  Kolobeng.  Sebi- 
tnane  very  soon  after  sent  a number  of  messengers  after  him, 
direct  from  himself.  When  he  had  heard  of  the  attempts  which 
had  been  made  to  visit  him,  he  despached  three  detachments  of 
his  men  with  presents  to  the  chiefs  whose  good-will  was  impor- 
tant : thirteen  brown  cows  to  Lecliulatebe,  thirteen  white  cows 
to  Sekomi,  and  thirteen  black  cows  to  Sechele,  requesting  each 
to  assist  the  white  man  to  reach  him.  But  it  was  the  policy  of 
these  chiefs  to  keep  the  explorer  out  of  view,  lest  they  should 


100 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


lose  the  advantages  which  came  to  them  by  means  of  Sebi- 
tuane’s  ivory,  which  had  hitherto  come  through  their  territory, 
and  indeed  through  their  hands. 

It  was  necessary  to  visit  Kurnman  before  making  a third  jour- 
ney to  Sebituane  ; and  it  was  not  till  May,  1S51,  that  Livingstone 
and  Oswell,  the  former  taking  with  him  his  wife  and  children, 
and  a guide  furnished  by  Sekomi,  were  once  more  on  the  way  to 
the  interior.  They  passed  over  a hard  country,  quite  flat,  and 
covered  with  a little  soil  on  a bed  of  calcareous  tufa,  for  several 
hundreds  of  miles.  They  found  several  large  salt-pans,  one 
of  which,  Ntwetwe,  was  flfteen  miles  broad  and  a hundred 
long.  These  pans  have  a gentle  slope  to  the  north-east,  which 
is  in  the  direction  of  the  Zouga,  into  which  the  rain-water  which 
covers  them  gcntl}r  gravitates.  By  this  means  the  salt,  which 
they  hold  in  solution,  has  all  been  transferred  to  one  pan,  named 
Chnantsa,  on  which  may  be  seen,  at  certain  seasons,  salt  and 
lime  an  inch  and  a half  thick.  All  the  others  have  an  efflor- 
escence of  lime,  and  one  of  the  nitrates  only,  some  of  them 
abounding  in  shells — spiral,  univalve,  and  bivalve.  In  every 
salt-pan  in  the  country  there  is  a spring  of  fresh  water  on  one 
side.  There  are  many  wells  in  the  tufa,  all  over  this  district. 
There  are  also  many  families  of  Bushmen.  They  are  unlike 
those  on  the  plains  of  the  Kalahari  Desert,  who  are  usually 
small  men,  but  these  are  tall  and  strong,  and  very  black. 

One  of  these  Bushmen,  named  Sliobo,  agreed  to  guide  them 
to  the  country  of  Sebituane.  lie  gave  them  to  understand 
that,  after  leaving  the  plain,  they  should  have  no  water  for  a 
month ; but  they  found  rain-water,  in  pools,  sooner  than  they 
expected.  The  scene  after  leaving  these  pools  was  very  dreary, 
the  vegetation  very  scanty,  and  there  was  not  even  a bird  or  an 
insect  to  give  variety  to  the  landscape.  Shobo  wandered  on 
the  second  day.  They  persuaded  him  to  go  on  with  them ; 
but,  on  the  fourth  day,  after  professing  ignorance  of  every- 
thing. he  vanished  altogether.  They  advanced  by  themselves, 
suffering  terribly  from  thirst:  and  on  the  fifth  day  their 
perseverance  was  rewarded  by  the  sight  of  birds  and  the  trail 
of  a rhinoceros.  From  these  signs,  they  knew  that  water  must 
be  near;  and,  unyoking  their  oxen,  these  animals,  guided  by 
unerring  instinct,  rushed  onward  to  the  River  Matabe,  which 
comes  from  the  Tamunak’le.  The  cattle,  when  left  to  them- 
selves, must  have  gone  through  a patch  of  trees  infested  with 
tsetse,  for  they  all  afterwards  died. 

The  tsetse  constitutes  in  many  parts  of  Africa  one  of  the 
most  serious  difficulties  with  which  travellers  have  to  contend. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


101 


It  is  thus  described  by  Livingstone:  “It  is, not  much  larger 
than  the  common  house-fly,  and  is  nearly  of  the  same  brown 
color  as  the  common  honey-bee ; the  after  part  of  the  body 
lias  three  or  four  yellow  bars  across  it;  the  wings  project 
beyond  this  part  considerably,  and  it  is  remarkably  alert, 
avoiding  most  dexterously  all  attempts  to  capture  it  with  the 
hand  at  common  temperatures;  in  the  cool  of  the  mornings 
and  evenings  it  is  less  agile.  Its  peculiar  buzz  when  once 
heard  can  never  be  forgot- 
ten by  the  traveller  whose 
means  of  locomotion  are  do- 
mestic animals;  for  it  is 
well  known  that  the  bite  of 
this  poisonous  insect  is  cer- 
tain death  to  the  ox,  horse, 
and  dog.  In  this  journey, 
though  we  were  not  aware 
of  any  great  number  having 
at  any  time  lighted  on  our 
cattle,  we  lost  forty-three 
flue  oxen  by  its  bite.  We 
watched  the  animals  care- 
fully, and  believe  that  not  a 
score  of  flies  were  ever  upon 
them.  A most*  remarkable  feature  in  the  bite  of  the  tsetse 
is  its  perfect  harmlessness  in  man  and  wild  animals,  and  even 
calves,  so  long  as  they  continue  to  suck  the  cows.  We  never 
experienced  the  slighest  injury  from  them  ourselves,  personally, 
although  wo  lived  two  months  in  their  habitat , which  was  in 
this  case  as  sharply  defined  as  in  many  others,  for  the  south 
bank  of  the  Chobe  was  infested  by  them,  and  the  northern 
bank,  where  our  cattle  were  placed,  only  fifty  yards  distant, 
contained  not  a single  specimen.  This  was  the  more  remark- 
able, as  we  often  saw  natives  carrying  over  rawr  meat  to  the  op- 
posite bank  with  many  tsetse  settled  upon  it.” 

Sliobo  had  found  his  way  to  the  Bayeiye,  and  notwithstand- 
ing his  desertion  of  his  friends,  received  them,  on  their  arrival 
at  the  river,  at  the  head  of  a party,  with  the  utmost  self-pos- 
session and  personal  importance.  They  all  liked  Shobo, 
however.  Next  day  they  came  to  a village  of  Banajoa,  a 
tribe  which  extends  far  to  the  eastward.  They  here  obtained 
further  help,  Moroa  Majare,  the  younger  brother  of  the  chief, 
becoming  their  guide  across  the  River  Sonta,  and  to  the  banks 
of  the  Chobe,  in  the  country  of  Sebituane. 


102 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS . 


Sebituane  was  about  twenty  miles  down  the  river,  and 
Livingstone  and  Oswell  went  in  canoes  to  his  temporary 
residence.  He  had  come  from  the  Barotse  town  of  Nalielc 
down  to  Sesheke  as  soon  as  lie  heard  that  the  white  men  were 
in  search  of  him,  and  he  now  came  a hundred  miles  more  to 
bid  them  welcome  to  his  country.  lie  was  upon  an  island, 
with  all  his  principal  men  around  him.  The  travellers  in- 
formed him  of  the  difficulties  which  they  had  had  to  encounter, 
and  told  him  how  glad  they  were  that  these  were  now  at  an 
end,  since  they  had  at  last  reached  his  presence.  lie  expressed 
his  own  joy,  and  added,  “Your  cattle  are  all  bitten  by  the 
tsetse,  and  will  certainly  die;  but  never  mind,  I have  oxen, 
and  will  give  you  as  many  as  you  need.”  He  then  presented 
them  with  an  ox  and  a jar  of  honey  as  food,  and  committed 
them  again  to  the  care  of  Maliale,  who  had  headed  the  party 
from  Kolobeng.  Prepared  skins  of  oxen,  as  soft  as  cloth, 
were  given  them  to  cover  themselves  with  in  the  night. 
Sebituane  came  to  them,  long  before  daylight,  and  sat  down 
by  the  fire  which  had  been  lighted  for  their  benefit  behind  the 
hedge  by  which  they  lay,  narrating  the  difficulties  which  he 
himself  had  experienced,  when  a young  man,  in  crossing  the 
Desert  which  these  travellers  had  just  traversed. 

Sebituane  was  now  about  forty-five  years  of  age ; of  a tall 
and  wiry  form,  an  olive,  or  coffee-and-milk,  color,  and  slightly 
bald ; in  manner  cool  and  collected,  “ and  more  frank,”  says 
Livingstone,  “ in  his  answers  than  any  other  chief  I ever  met.” 
He  was  the  greatest  warrior  ever  heard  of  beyond  the  Colony, 
for,  unlike  Mosilikatse,  Dingaan,  and  others,  he  always  led  his 
men  into  battle  himself.  He  came  from  the  country  near  the 
sources  of  the  Likwa  and  Namagari  rivers  in  the  south,  so  that 
he  was  here  established  eight  or  nine  hundred  miles  from  his 
birth-place.  He  was  not  the  son  of  a chief,  though  closely 
related  to  the  reigning  family  of  the  Bashtu ; and  when  in 
an  attack  by  Sikonyele  the  tribe  was  driven  out  of  one  part, 
Sebituane  was  one  of  an  immense  horde  which  had  again  to 
flee  before  the  Griquas  from  Kuruman  in  1824.  lie  then 
came  to  the  north  with  a small  party  of  men  and  cattle.  At 
Melita  the  Bangwaketse  collected  the  Bakwains,  Bakatla,  and 
Bahurutse,  and  attacked  the  new-comers.  Sebituane  conquered 
Makabe,  the  chief  of  the  Bangwaketse,  and  took  possession  of 
his  town  and  all  his  goods.  He  afterwards  settled  at  a place 
called  Litubaruba,  where  Sechele  afterwards  lived.  A great 
variety  of  fortune  subsequently  followed  him.  He  was  entangled 
in  many  wars,  but  invariably  conquered  his  enemies.  He  came 


LIVINGSTONE' 8 EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


103 


rit  last  to  be  firmly  established  in  his  present  country,  possessed 
of  great  power,  with  many  people  and  much  wealth  in  flocks 
and  herds.  lie  obtained  for  himself  a place  in  the  affections 
of  all  classes,  and  ruled  by  love  as  well  as  fear.  Sechele, 
Sekomi,  and  Lechulatebe  owed  their  lives  entirely  to  his  clem- 
ency. Ilis  people  are  Makololo. 

It  was  Livingstone’s  strong  desire  to  locate  himself  in  the 
midst  of  this  immense  multitude  of  people,  and  Sebituane, 
who  had  long  desired  the  friendship  of  white  men,  understood 
his  purpose  and  favored  it.  He  was  much  pleased  with  the 
confidence  in  him  shown  by  the  bringing  of  the  children,  and 
promised  to  take  the  missionary  to  see  his  country,  that  he 
might  choose  a locality  in  which  he  could  remain,  and  at  once 
begin  his  work.  But  it  was  not  at  that  time  so  to  be.  Sebituane, 
just  after  realizing  the  intercourse  with  white  men  which  he 
had  desired  so  long,  was  seized  with  inflammation  of  the  lungs, 
and  in  a few  days  died. 

Livingstone  says : 44  On  the  Sunday  afternoon  on  which  he  died, 
when  our  usual  religious  service  was  over,  I visited  him  with 
my  little  boy  Robert.  4 Come  near,’  said  he,  4 and  see  if  I am 
any  longer  a man;  I am  done.’  He  was  thus  sensible  of  the 
dangerous  nature  of  his  disease ; so  I ventured  to  assent,  and 
added  a single  sentence  regarding  hope  after  death.  4 Why 
do  you  speak  of  death  ? ’ said  one  of  a fresh  relay  of  doctors ; 
4 Sebituane  will  never  die.’  If  I had  persisted,  the  impression 
would  have  been  produced  that  by  speaking  about  it  I wished 
him  to  die.  After  sitting  with  him  some  time,  and  commend- 
ing him  to  the  mercy  of  God,  I rose  to  depart,  when  the  dying 
chieftain,  raising  himself  up  a little  from  the  prone  position, 
called  to  a servant,  and  said,  ‘Take  Robert  to  Manuku  (one  of 
his  wives),  and  tell  her  to  give  him  some  milk.’  These  were  the 
last  words  of  Sebituane. 

44  We  were  not  informed  of  his  death  until  the  next  day. 
The  burial  of  a Bechuana  chief  takes  place  in  his  cattle-pen, 
and  all  the  cattle  are  driven  for  an  hour  or  two  around  and 
over  the  grave,  so  that  it  may  be  quite  obliterated.  We  went 
and  spoke  to  the  people,  advising  them  to  keep  together  and 
support  the  heir.  They  took  this  kindly ; and  in  turn  told  us 
not  to  be  alarmed,  for  they  would  not  think  of  ascribing  the 
death  of  their  chief  to  us ; that  Sebituane  had  just  gone  the 
w&y  of  his  fathers ; and  though  the  father  had  gone,  ne  had 
left  children,  and  they  hoped  that  we  would  be  as  friendly  to 
his  children  as  we  intended  to  have  been  to  himself. 

44  He  was  decidedly  the  best  specimen  of  a native  chief  I 


10J 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


ever  met.  I never  felt  so  much  grieved  by  the  loss  of  a black 
man  before ; and  it  was  impossible  not  to  follow  him  in 
thought  into  the  world  of  which  he  had  just  heard  before  he 
was  called  away,  and  to  realize  somewhat  of  the  feelings  of 
those  who  pray  for  the  dead.  The  deep,  dark  question  of  what 
is  to  become  of  such  as  he  must,  however,  be  left  where  we 
find  it,  believing  that,  assuredly,  the  ‘Judge  of  all  the  earth 
will  do  right.’  ” 

At  Sebituane’s  death  the  chieftainship  devolved,  as  her 
father  intended,  on  a daughter  named  Maniochisane.  lie  had 
promised  to  show  them  his  country  and  to  allow  them  to  select 
a suitable  locality  for  residence  and  mission  work.  They  had 
now  to  look  to  the  daughter.  She  was  living  twelve  days  to 
the  north ; and  they  were  obliged  to  wait  till  a message  came 
from  her.  She  gave  them  perfect  liberty  to  visit  any  part  of 
the  country  they  chose.  Both  Livingstone  and  Oswell  there- 
fore proceeded  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  to  the  north-east, 
to  Seslieke;  and  in  the  end  of  June,  1851,  were  rewarded  by 
the  discovery  of  the  Zambesi,  in  the  centre  of  the  continent. 
This  was  a most  important  discovery,  for  that  river  was  not 
previously  known  to  exist  there.  The  Portuguese  maps  had, 
by  conjecture,  placed  it  far  to  the  cast ; and  if  ever  anything 
like  a chain  of  trading  stations  had  existed  across  the  country 
between  the  latitudes  12°  and  18°  south,  this  magnificent  por- 
tion of  the  river  ought  to  have  been  known  before.  They 
saw  it  at  the  end  of  the  dry  season,  when  the  river  is  at  its 
lowest,  and  yet  there  was  a breadth  of  from  three  to  six  hundred 
yards  of  deep,  flowing  water.  Oswell  declared  that  lie  had 
never  seen  so  flue  a river  even  in  India.  At  the  period  of  its 
annual  inundation  it  rises  more  than  twenty  feet  in  perpendic- 
ular height,  and  floods  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  of  lands  adjacent 
to  its  banks. 

The  country  over  which  they  had  travelled  from  the  Cliohe 
was  flat,  with  the  exception  of  ant-hills,  and  in  some  parts 
there  are  forests  of  mimosa3  and  palmyras  and  mopane.  There 
are  swamps  in  large  patches  near  the  Chobe,  or  on  its  banks. 
Among  the  swamps  the  Makololo  live,  that  they  may  thus 
obtain  protection  against  their  enemies.  The  open  and  healthy 
parts  being  utterly  without  defence,  and  these  marshes  most 
deleterious  to  human  life,  it  was  deemed  inexpedient,  at  this 
time,  to  select  any  place  for  a missionary  settlement.  The 
original  Basutos  had  all  been  cut  off  by  fever.  The  idea  was, 
therefore,  reluctantly  abandoned. 

These  being  the  first  white  men  whom  the  people  had  seen, 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


105 


they  were  visited  by  prodigious  numbers.  Among  the  first  of 
these  was  a gentleman  dressed  in  a gaudy  dressing-gown  of 
printed  calico.  Many  others  bad  garments  of  blue,  green,  and 
red  baize,  and  also  of  printed  cottons;  and  these  were  found, 
on  inquiry,  to  have  been  obtained  in  exchange  for  boys,  from  a 
tribe  called  Mambari,  residing  near  i3i he,  and  trading  as 
middle-men,  in  the  slave  market,  between  the  natives  and  the 
Portuguese.  The  Mamb&ri  began  the  slave-trade  with  Sebit- 
uane  in  1850  only,  and,  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  obstructions 
put  in  the  way  of  Livingstone  and  Oswell  when  they  formerly 
attempted  to  reach  that  chief,  the  probability  is  that  they 
would  have  been  with  him  in  time  to  prevent  its  being  begun 
at  all.  The  Mambari  had  long  visited  the  chief  of  the  Barotse, 
and  when  Sebituane  conquered  that  tribe  he  refused  to  allow 
any  one  to  sell  a child.  But  when  they  renewed  their  visits  in 
1850,  they  brought  with  them  a number  of  guns.  These  were 
too  strong  a temptation  for  Sebituane.  lie  offered  to  purchase 
them  with  cattle  or  ivory,  but  the  Mambari  refused  everything 
except  boys  about  fourteen  years  age.  Till  that  time  no  such 
thing  as  the  buying  and  selling  of  human  beings  had  been 
known  among  .the  Makololo.  Eight  old  guns  were  exchanged 
for  eight  boys.  These  were  not  their  own  children,  but  cap- 
tives. The  Africans  seldom  sell  their  own  children.  The  Mako- 
lolo were  incited  to  make  a foray  against  some  tribes  to  the 
eastward.  Many  captives  were  taken, — and  the  Mambari 
carried  away  with  them  as  many  as  two  hundred  slaves  that 
year. 

It  was  believed  by  these  travellers  that  if  the  market  were 
supplied  with  articles  of  European  manufacture  in  the  way  of 
legitimate  commerce,  the  trade  in  slaves  would  become  impos- 
sible. The  people  would  prefer  obtaining  their  goods  in  ex- 
change for  ivory  and  other  products  of  the  country.  But  this 
could  be  accomplished  only  by  means  of  a safe  and  protected 
road  or  highway  from  the  coast  to  the  centre  of  the  country. 

Livingstone  again  returned  to  Kolobeng;  but  as  the  Boers 
would  not  allow  the  peaceable  instruction  of  the  natives  there, 
and  since  it  would  have  been  extremely  hazardous  to  expose 
European  lives  in  a region  so  unhealthy  as  the  protected  por- 
tions of  Sebituane’s  country,  he  resolved  to  send  his  family  to 
England,  and  to  return  alone  that  he  might  explore  the  country 
in  search  of  a healthy  district,  which  should  prove  a centre  of 
civilization,  and  open  up  a path  to  the  interior  from  either  the 
east  or  west  coast.  The  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society  cordially  approved  of  his  project,  and  left  the  matter 


106 


LIVINGSTONE'S  EARLIER  JOURNEYS. 


entirely  to  his  own  discretion.  lie  accordingly  went  to  the 
Cape,  with  his  wife  and  children,  in  April,  1852,  having  been 
absent  eleven  years  from  the  scenes  of  civilization  ; and  having 
placed  them  on  board  a homeward-bound  ship,  he  returned,  in 
the  hope  that  in  two  years  they  would  meet  again.  But  it 
proved  to  be  nearly  live. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


LIVINGSTONE’S  JOUENEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 

Having  sent  his  family  home  to  England,  as  narrated  in  the 
preceding  chapter,  Livingstone  started  from  Cape  Town  on  his 
next  journey,  in  the  beginning  of  J une,  1852.  This  journey  ex- 
tended from  the  southern  extremity  of  the  continent  to  St. 
Paul  de  Loando,  the  capital  of  Angola,  on  the  west  coast,  and 
thence  across  Central  Africa  in  an  oblique  direction  to  Kili- 
mane  (Quilimaue),  on  the  east  coast.  He  used  the  usual  con- 
veyance of  the  country,  the  heavy  Cape  wagon,  drawn  by  ten 
oxen,  and  was  accompanied  by  two  Christian  Bechuanas  from 
Kuruman, — of  whose  fidelity  he  speaks  in  strong  terms, — by 
two  Bakwain  men,  and  two  young  girls,  who,  having  come  as 
nurses  with  his  children  to  the  Cape,  were  returning  to  their 
home  at  Kolobeng.  They  proceeded  very  slowly,  and  thc'parts 
of  the  colony  through  which  they  passed  were  extremely  bare 
and  sterile.  The  cattle  suffered  fatally  from  the  tsetse,  which 
put  the  traveller  to  inconvenience,  as  such  an  occurrence  inva- 
riably does.  Arriving  at  Kuruman,  he  was  detained  there  a 
fortnight  by  the  breaking  of  a wheel,  and  found  that  Sechele 
and  his  tribe  had  been  attacked  by  the  Boers  of  the  mountain 
and  had  suffered  considerable  loss.  He  arrived  at  the  town  of 
Sechele  on  the  31st  of  December,  and  having  spent  five  days 
with  his  friends  there,  distressed  by  the  painful  spectacle  of  the 
miseries  resulting  from  war,  he  began  his  preparations  for  the 
prosecution  of  his  journey,  and  left  on  the  15th  of  January, 
1853.  On  the  21st  he  reached  the  wells  of  Boatlanama,  and 
found  them  empty ; the  Lopepe,  which  he  had  formerly  seen  a 
running  stream,  was  also  dry,  and  he  pushed  on  to  Mashiie.  Oc- 
casionally they  lighted  upon  land  tortoises,  which  formed  an 
agreeable  meal. 

Ostriches  also  were  frequently  seen,  and  of  these  Livingstone 
gives  the  following  account : “ The  ostrich  is  generally  seen 
quietly  feeding  on  some  spot  where  no  one  can  approach  him 
without  being  detected  by  his  wary  eye.  As  the  wagon  moves 
along  far  to  the  windward,  bethinks  it  is  intending  to  circum- 
vent him,  so  he  rushes  up  a mile  or  so  from  the  leeward,  and 


108  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TEE  CONTINENT. 


so  near  to  the  front  oxen  that  one  sometimes  gets  a shot  at  the 
silly  bird.  When  he  begins  to  run  all  the  game  in  sight  follow 
his  example.  I have  seen  this  folly  taken  advantage  of  when 
he  was  feeding  quietly  in  a valley  open  at  both  ends.  A num- 
ber of  men  would  commence  running,  as  if  to  cut  off  his  re- 
treat from  the  end  through  which  the  wind  came ; and  al- 
though lie  had  the  whole  country  hundreds  of  miles  before  him 
by  going  to  the  other  end,  he  madly  rushed  to  get  past  the  men, 
and  so  was  speared.  He  never  swerves  from  the  course  he 
once  adopts,  but  only  increases  his  speed.  When  the  ostrich  is 
feeding,  his  pace  is  from  twenty  to  twenty-two  inches ; when 
walking,  but  not  feeding,  it  is  twenty-six  inches  ; and  when  ter- 
rified, as  in  the  case  noticed,  it  is  from  eleven  and  a half  to 
thirteen  and  even  fourteen  feet  in  length.  Only  in  one  case 
was  I at  all  satisfied  of  being  able  to  count  the  rate  of  speed  by 
a stop-watch,  and  if  I am  not  mistaken,  there  were  thirty  in  ten 
seconds ; generally  one’s  eye  can  no  more  follow  the  legs  than 
it  can  the  spokes  of  a carriage-wheel  in  rapid  motion.  If  we 
take  the  above  number,  and  twelve  feet  stride  as  the  average 
pace,  we  have  a speed  of  twenty-six  miles  an  hour.  It  cannot 
be  very  much  above  that,  and  is  therefore  slower  than  a railway 
locomotive.  They  are  sometimes  shot  by  the  horsemen  making 
a cross  cut  to  their  undeviating  course,  but  few  Englishmen 
ever  succeed  in  killing  them.” 

When  they  reached  the  Bamangwato  tribe,  the  chief,  Sc- 
komi,  was  particularly  friendly,  and  collected  all  his  people  to 
the  religious  services  which  were  held.  Here  the  travellers  re- 
mained several  days,  and  Livingstone  had  time  to  observe  some 
of  the  peculiar  native  customs.  “ All  the  Bechuana  and  Kaffre 
tribes,”  he  says,  “south  of  the  Zambesi,  practise  circumcision 
( bogucra ),  but  the  rites  observed  are  carefully  concealed.  The 
initiated  alone  can  approach,  but  in  this  town  I was  once  a 
spectator  of  the  second  part  of  the  ceremony  of  the  circumci- 
sion, called  4 seclm.’  Just  at  the  dawn  of  day,  a row  of  boys  of 
nearly  fourteen  years  of  age  stood  naked  in  the  kotla,  each  hav- 
ing a pair  of  sandals  as  a shield  on  his  hands.  Facing  them 
stood  the  men  of  the  town  in  a similar  state  of  nudity,  all 
armed  with  long,  thin  wands,  of  a tough,  strong,  supple  bush 
called  moretloa  {Grewia  flava),  and  engaged  in  a dance  named 
4 koha,’  in  which  questions  are  put  to  the  boys,  as — 4 Will  you 
guard  the  chief  well  ? ’ 4 Will  you  herd  the  cattle  well  ? 5 and, 

while  the  latter  give  an  affirmative  response,  the  men  rush  for- 
ward to  them,  and  each  aims  a full-weight  blow  at  the  back  of 
one  of  the  boys.  Shielding  himself  with  the  sandals  above  his 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  100 

head,  he  causes  the  supple  wand  to  descend  and  bend  into  his 
back,  and  every  stroke  inflicted  thus  makes  the  blood  squirt  out 
of  a wound  a foot  or  eighteen  inches  long.  At  the  end  of  the 
dance,  the  boys’  backs  are  seamed  with  wounds  and  weals,  the 
scars  of  which  remain  through  life.  This  is  intended  to  harden 
the  young  soldiers,  and  prepare  them  for  the  rank  of  men. 
After  this  ceremony,  and  after  killing  a rhinoceros,  they  may 
marry  a wife. 

“No  one  of  the  natives  knows  how  old  he  is.  If  asked  his 
age,  he  answers  by  putting  another  question,  4 Does  a man  re- 
member when  he  was  born?  ’ Age  is  reckoned  by  the  number 
of  mepato  they  have  seen  pass  through  the  formulae  of  admis- 
sion. When  they  see  four  or  five  mepato  younger  than  them- 
selves, they  are  no  longer  obliged  to  bear  arms.  The  oldest 
individual  I ever  met  boasted  he  had  seen  eleven  sets  of  boys 
submit  to  the  boguera.  Supposing  him  to  have  been  fifteen 
when  he  saw  his  own,  and  fresh  bands  were  added  every  six  or 
seven  years,  he  must  have  been  about  forty  when  he  saw  the 
fifth,  and  may  have  attained  seventy-five  or  eighty  years,  which 
is  no  great  age  ; but  it  seemed  so  to  them,  for  he  had  now 
doubled  the  age  for  superannuation  among  them.  It  is  an  in- 
genious plan  for  attaching  the  members  of  the  tribe  to  the 
chief’s  family,  and  for  imparting  a discipline  which  renders  the 
tribe  easy  of  command.  On  their  return  to  the  town  from  at- 
tendance on  the  ceremonies  of  initiation,  a prize  is  given  to  tho 
lad  who  can  run  fastest,  the  article  being  placed  where  all  may 
see  the  winner  run  up  to  snatch  it.  They  are  then  considered 
men  (banona,  viri),  and  can  sit  among  the  elders  in  the  kotla. 
Formerly  they  were  only  boys  (basimane,  pueri).” 

Passing  on  to  Letloche,  about  twenty  miles  beyond  the  Ba- 
mangwato,  they  found  an  abundant  supply  of  water,  which  in 
such  a country  is  always  of  the  greatest  importance.  Their 
next  stopping-place  was  at  a spot  named  Kanne,  where  there 
are  several  wells.  They  had  now  sixty  miles  of  country  before 
them  without  water ; and  although  they  took  with  them  as 
large  a supply  as  they  could,  it  was  distressing  to  see  the  oxen 
long  before  that  distance  had  been  traversed.  The  Bakalahari, 
who  live  at  Motlatsa  wells,  were  friend ly,  as  they  had  always 
formerly  been,  and  listened  attentively  to  the  instructions  which 
were  conveyed  to  them  in  their  own  tongue. 

The  travellers  left  Motlatsa  on  the  8tli  of  February,  and 
passed  down  the  Mokoko,  which  living  persons  had  known  as  a 
nowing  stream.  It  is  now  a dry  bed.  The  Bamangwato  here 
keep  large  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  which  thrive  well  where- 


110  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


ever  salt  and  bushes  are  to  be  found.  At  Nchokotsa  they  still 
suffered  from  scarcity  of  water,  and  the  men  took  advantage  of 
that  circumstance  to  wait  at  night  by  such  pools  as  they  could 
find,  that  they  might  shoot  the  animals  which  were  driven  to 
them  and  off  their  guard  by  the  excess  of  their  thirst.  Of  this 
Livingstone  disapproved,  large  numbers  of  the  game  being  in 
such  circumstances  merely  wounded  and  left  slowly  to  die. 

Numbers  of  baobab  and  mopanc  trees  abound  all  over  the 
hard,  arid  surface  of  the  country  in  this  part.  They  passed  one 
specimen  of  the  baobab,  called  in  the  language  of  the  district, 
mowana,  which  consisted  of  six  branches  united  in  one  trunk. 
At  three  feet  from  the  ground  it  was  eighty -five  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. These  mowana  trees  are  the  most  wonderful 
specimens  of  vitality  in  the  country.  Adanson  and  others  be- 
lieved that  some  specimens  which  they  saw  in  Western  Africa 
had  been  alive  before  the  Flood,  and  hence  argued  that  there 
had  never  been  any  flood.  But,  says  Livingstone,  “ I would 
back  a true  mowana  against  a dozen  floods,  provided  you  do  not 
boil  it  in  hot  sea-water ; but  I cannot  believe  that  any  of  those 
now  alive  had  a chance  of  being  subjected  to  the  experiment 
of  even  the  Noachian  deluge.”  The  natives  strip  off  the  bark 
as  far  up  as  they  can  reach ; this  they  pound,  and  of  the  fibre 
make  a strong  cord.  In  the  case  of  any  other  tree  this  would 
cause  its  deatli,  but  such  treatment  has  no  effect  on  the  mo- 
wana except  to  make  it  throw  out  a new  bark,  which  is  done 
in  the  way  of  granulation.  This  stripping  of  the  bark  is  re- 
peated frequently,  so  that  it  is  common  to  see  the  lower  five  or 
six  feet  an  inch  or  two  less  in  diameter  than  the  parts  above. 
No  external  injury,  not  even  a fire,  can  destroy  this  tree  from 
without;  nor  can  any  harm  be  done  it  from  within,  as  it  is 
quite  common  to  find  it  hollow ; and  sometimes  one  is  to  be 
seen  in  which  twenty  or  thirty  men  could  lie  down  and  sleep 
as  in  a hut.  Cutting  down  does  not  exterminate  it,  for  the 
roots,  extending  along  the  surface  forty  or  fifty  yards  from  the 
trunk,  also  retain  their  vitality  after  the  tree  is  laid  low.  The 
wood  is  so  soft  and  spongy  that  an  axe  can  be  struck  in  so  far 
with  a good  blow,  that  there  is  great  difficulty  in  pulling  it  out 
again. 

At  Bapesli  Livingstone  came  upon  old  friends — the  Bushmen 
under  Iloroye.  This  man  Horoye  was  a good  specimen  of  that 
tribe,  and  his  son  Mokantsa  and  others  were  at  least  six  feet 
high,  and  of  a darker  color  than  the  Bushmen  of  the  south. 
They  have  always  plenty  of  food  and  water;  and  as  they  fre- 
quent the  Zonga  as  often  as  the  game  in  whose  company  they 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  m 


live,  their  condition  is  very  different  from  that  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  thirsty  plains  of  the  Kalahari.  The  travellers 
spent  a Sunday  with  Kaisa,  the  headman  of  a village  of  Ma- 
shona,  who  had  fled  from  the  iron  sway  of  Mosilikatse,  whose 
country  lies  east  of  this.  Livingstone  wished  him  to  take 
charge  of  a packet  of  letters  for  England,  to  be  forwarded  by 
the  Beclmanas  when  they  came  in  search  of  skins;  but  he 
was  afraid  of  the  danger  if  anything  should  happen  to  them, 
and  there  was  therefore  now  no  hope  of  any  communication 
with  the  family  of  the  explorer  till  he  should  reach  the  west 
coast.  At  Unku  they  came  into  a tract  of  country  which  had 
been  visited  by  refreshing  showers  long  before,  and  everything 
was  luxuriant  and  beautiful.  Proceeding  to  the  north,  from 
Kama-kama,  they  entered  into  dense  Mohonono  bush,  which 
required  the  constant  application  of  the  axe  by  three  of  the 
party  for  two  days.  On  emerging  into  the  plains  beyond  they 
found  a number  of  Bushmen,  who  afterwards  proved  very 
serviceable  to  them.  On  the  10th  of  March  they  were  brought 
to  a standstill,  by  the  prostration  of  four  of  the  party  with 
fever;  and  instead  of  tne  speedy  recovery  of  the  first  sufferers, 
every  man  of  their  number  was,  in  a few  days,  laid  low  except 
a Bakwain  lad  and  the  traveller  himself.  The  lad  managed 
the  oxen,  while  Livingstone  attended  to  the  patients. 

The  grass  was  here  so  tall,  that  the  oxen  became  uneasy, 
fearing  that  wild  beasts  might  be  concealed  in  it,  and  one 
night  the  sight  of  a hyena  made  them  rush  away  into  the 
forest.  The  Bakwain  lad  having  run  after  them,  lost  his  way 
in  the  trackless  woods;  but  he  remained  on  the  trail  of  the 
cattle  all  the  next  day  and  all  the  next  night.  On  the  Sunday 
morning,  when  search  was  about  to  be  made  for  him,  he  ap- 
peared near  the  wagon.  lie  had  found  the  oxen  late  in  the 
afternoon  of  Saturday,  and  had  been  obliged  to  stand  by  them 
all  night.  It  was  wonderful  that,  without  a compass  and  in 
such  a country,  he  had  managed  to  find  his  way  back  at  all, 
bringing  about  forty  oxen  with  him. 

The  detention  on  account  of  sickness,  and  the  weakness 
which  followed  it,  made  the  progress  of  the  party  very  slow, 
and  to  these  impediments  was  added  that  of  the  density  of  the 
forest.  But  they  obtained  the  aid  of  a number  of  Bushmen, 
and  urged  on  their  way.  None  of  the  men  had  died;  but  two 
were  not  likely  to  recover.  After  a time  the  Bushmen  wished 
to  return,  and  Livingstone  paid  them.  There  was  no  use  expos- 
tulating with  these  gentlemen.  But  the  payment  acted  as  a 
charm  on  some  strangers  who  happened  to  be  present,  and  in- 


112  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TEE  CONTINENT. 


dnced  them  to  volunteer  their  aid.  Thus  he  was  enabled  to 
advance.  They  frequently  heard  the  roar  of  lions,  and  occasion- 
ally saw  them. 

“ The  lions,”  says  Livingstone,  “ seem  to  have  a wholesome 
dread  of  the  Bushmen,  who,  when  they  observe  evidence  of  a 
lion’s  having  made  a full  meal,  follow  up  his  spoor  so  quietly 
that  his  slumbers  are  not  disturbed.  One  discharges  a poi- 
soned arrow  from  a distance  of  only  a few  feet,  while  his  com- 
panion simultaneously  throws  his  skin  cloak  on  the  beast’s 
head.  The  sudden  surprise  makes  the  lion  lose  his  presence  of 
mind,  and  he  bounds  away  in  the  greatest  confusion  and  ter- 
ror. Our  friends  here  showed  me  the  poison  which  they  use 
on  these  occasions.  It  is  the  entrails  of  a caterpillar  called 
N’gwa,  half  an  inch  long.  They  squeeze  out  these,  and  place 
them  all  around  the  bottom  of  the  barb,  and  allow  the  poison 
to  dry  in  the  sun.  They  are  very  careful  in  cleaning  their 
nails  after  working  with  it,  as  a small  portion  introduced  into 
a scratch  acts  like  morbid  matter  in  dissection  wounds.  The 
agony  is  so  great  that  the  person  cuts  himself,  calls  for  his 
mother’s  breast  as  if  he  were  returned  in  idea  to  his  childhood 
again,  or  flies  from  human  habitations  a raging  maniac.  The 
effects  on  the  lion  are  equally  terrible,  lie  is  heard  moaning 
in  distress,  and  becomes  furious,  biting  the  trees  and  ground  in 
rage.” 

A.s  they  went  northwards,  the  country  became  very  lovely ; 
there  were  many  trees,  some  of  them  new  kinds ; the  grass 
was  green,  and  often  higher  than  the  wagon ; while  vines  fes- 
tooned the  trees,  and  the  hollows  contained  large  patches  of 
water.  By  and  by  came  water-courses,  now  resembling  small 
rivers,  twenty  yards  broad  and  four  feet  deep.  The  farther 
they  went,  the  broader  and  deeper  these  became ; the  bottoms 
contained  great  numbers  of  deep  holes  made  by  the  wading 
of  elephants;  in  one  of  these  the  oxen  floundered  painfulty,  so 
that  the  wagon-pole  broke,  and  Livingstone  had  to  work  up  to 
the  chest  in  water  for  three  hours  and  a half. 

At  last  they  came  to  the  Sanshureh,  which  at  the  point  at 
which  they  reached  it  was  impassable,  and  they  drew  up  un- 
der a magnificent  baobab-tree  (lat.  18°  4'  27"  S.,  long.  24°  6' 
20"  E.),  and  resolved  to  explore  the  river  for  a ford.  The 
great  quantity  of  water  which  they  had  recently  passed 
through  was  part  of  the  annual  inundation  of  the  Chobe;  and 
this,  which  appeared  a large,  deep  river,  filled  in  many  parts 
with  reeds,  and  having  hippopotami  in  it,  is  only  one  of  the 
branches  by  which  it  sends  its  superabundant  water  to  the 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT . 113 


south-east.  They  made  many  attempts  to  cross  the  Sanslmreh, 
but  failed  ; and  their  Bushmen  friends  became  tired  out,  and 
left  them  in  the  night.  The  traveller  was,  therefore,  obliged 
to  take  one  of  the  strongest  of  his  still  weak  companions,  and 
cross  the  river  in  a pontoon,  the  gift  of  Captains  Codrington 
and  Webb,  which  he  had  with  him.  They  each  carried  some 
provisions  and  a blanket,  and  penetrated  about  twenty  miles 
to  the  westward,  in  the  hope  of  striking  the  Chobe.  Having 
done  their  best  for  the  night,  they  climbed  the  highest  trees 
in  the  morning,  and  could  see  a large  sheet  of  water,  but  sur- 
rounded by  an  impenetrable  belt  of  reeds.  This  was  the 
broad  part  of  the  River  Chobe,  which  is  here  called  Zabesa. 
Two  tree-covered  islands  seemed  to  be  much  nearer  the  main 
body  of  the  water  than  was  the  point  on  which  they  then 
stood,  and  they  made  an  attempt  to  get  first  to  them.  After 
hours  of  toil  they  reached  one  of  them,  through  dense  growths 
of  reed  and  convolvuli,  which  quite  wore  through  the  mole- 
skins of  Livingstone  as  well  as  the  leather  trousers  of  his  com- 
panion. By  and  by  they  found  a passage  formed  by  a hippo- 
potamus. and,  eager  as  soon  as  thcv  reached  the  clear  water 
beyond  the  island  to  test  its  in,  and  found 


that  it  took  them  at  once  up  y therefore  re- 

turned to  the  shore.  Worn  out  as  they  were,  they  proceeded 
up  the  bank  of  the  Chobe  till  they  came  to  the  point  of  de- 
parture of  the  Sanslmreh,  and  being  unable  to  effect  a crossing, 
wrent  downward,  and  had  to  spend  another  night  without  hav- 
ing accomplished  their  purpose.  Finding  in  the  morning  an 
inlet  to  the  Chobe  not  closed  up  with  reeds,  they  launched 
their  pontoon,  the  river  being  here  a deep  stream  of  from 
eighty  to  a hundred  yards  wide. 

They  paddled  on  from  mid-day  till  sunset,  with  nothing  but 
a wall  of  reeds  on  each  bank,  and  with  every  prospect  of  a 
supperless  night  in  their  float,  when,  just  as  the  short  twilight 
of  these  parts  was  commencing,  they  perceived  on  the  north 
bank  the  village  of  Moremi,  and  one  of  the  Makololo,  whose 
acquaintance  Livingstone  had  made  in  his  former  visit,  and 
who  was  now  located  here  on  the  island  of  Mahonta  (lat.  17° 
58'  S.,  long.  24:°  6'  E.).  The  people  were  greatly  surprised  to 
see  them,  and,  in  their  figurative  mode  of  speech,  said,  “ Ho 
has  dropped  among  us  from  the  clouds,  yet  came  riding  on  the 
back  of  a hippopotamus ! We  Makololo  thought  no  one  could 
cross  the  Chobe  without  our  knowledge,  but  here  he  drops 
among  us  like  a bird.”  Next  day  they  returned  in  canoes 
across  the  flooded  lands,  and  found  that  in  their  absence  the 


8 


114  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 

men  liad  allowed  the  cattle  to  wander  into  a small  patch  of 
wood,  containing  tsetse;  and  this  carelessness  cost  ten  line 
oxen.  After  remaining  a few  days,  some  of  the  headmen  of 
Makololo  came  down  from  Linyanti,  with  a large  party  of 
Barotse  to  take  them  across  the  river.  This  they  did  in  good 
style,  swimming  and  diving  more  like  alligators  than  like  men, 
taking  the  wagons  to  pieces,  and  carrying  them  across  on  a 
number  of  canoes  lashed  together.  Livingstone  was  now 
among  friends,  and,  going  about  thirty  miles  to  the  north  in 
order  to  avoid  the  still  flooded  lands  on  the  north  of  the 
Chobe,  he  turned  westward  towards  Linyanti,  where  he  arrived 
on  the  23d  of  May,  1853.  This  is  the  capital  town  of  the 
Makololo,  and  only  a short  distance  from  the  wagon-stand 
which  the  traveller  had  occupied  in  1851  (lat.  18°  20'  S.,  long. 
23°  50'  E.).  ; 

The  whole  population  of  Linyanti,  numbering  between  six 
and  seven  thousand  souls,  turned  out  in  a body  to  sec  the  wag- 
ons in  motion.  They  had  never  seen  this  phenomenon  be- 
fore, the  traveller  having  on  the  former  occasion  departed  by 
night.  Sekeletu,  now  in  power,  received  him  in  what  is  con- 
sidered royal  style,  setting  before  him  a great  number  of 
pots  of  boyaloa,  the  beer  of  the  country.  These  were  brought 
by  women,  and  each  bearer  took  a good  draught  of  the  beer 
when  she  set  it  down,  in  order  to  show  that  it  contained  no 
poison.  The  court  herald,  an  old  man  who  had  occupied  the 
post  in  Sebituane’s  time,  stood  up,  and,  after  some  antics,  such 
as  leaping  and  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  bawled  out, 
“ Don’t  I see  the  white  man  ? Don’t  I see  the  comrade  of  Se- 
bituane  ? Don’t  I see  the  father  of  Sekeletu  ? ” 

Sekeletu  was  a young  man  of  eighteen  years  of  age,  of  that 
dark  yellow  or  coffee-and-milk  color  of  which  the  Makololo 
are  so  proud,  because  it  distinguishes  them  considerably  from 
the  black  tribes  on  the  rivers.  He  was  about  five  feet  seven 
in  height,  but  neither  so  good-looking  nor  of  so  much  ability 
as  his  father,  but  was  equally  friendly  to  the  English.  Sebit- 
uane  had  installed  his  daughter  Mamoeliisane  into  the  chief- 
tainship long  before  his  death ; but  after  his  decease,  and 
having  made  trial  of  the  new  position,  she  did  not  like  it,  and 
proposed  and  upheld  the  claims  of  her  brother.  Three  days 
having  been  spent  in  public  discussion  on  the  subject  of  the 
transfer,  Mamoeliisane  at  last  stood  up  in  the  assembly,  and 
addressing  her  brother,  said,  with  a womanly  gush  of  tears : 
“ I have  been  a chief  only  because  my  father  wished  it.  I 
always  would  have  preferred  to  be  married  and  have  a family 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  115 


like  other  women.  You,  Sekeletu,  must  be  chief  and  build 
up  your  father’s  house.”  And  Sekeletu  was  established  in  au- 
thority. 

When  the  Mamb&ri,  in  1850,  took  home  a favorable  report 
of  this  new  market  to  the  West,  a number  of  half  caste  Portu- 
guese were  induced  to  visit  the  country  in  1853 ; and  one  who 
closely  resembled  a real  Portuguese  came  to  Linyanti  while 
Livingstone  was  there.  He  had  no  merchandise,  and  pretended 
to  have  come  in  order  to  inquire  what  sort  of  goods  were  nec- 
essary for  the  market.  lie  seemed  much  disconcerted  by 
Livingstone’s  presence.  When  he  had  departed,  and  gone 
about  fifty  miles  to  the  westward,  he  carried  off  an  entire  vil- 
lage of  the  Bakalahari  belonging  to  the  Makololo.  He  had  a 
number  of  armed  slaves  with  him,  and  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren were  removed,  the  fact  not  being  known  at  Linyanti  until 
a considerable  time  afterwards. 

A large  party  of  Mamb&ri  had  come  to  Linyanti,  while  Liv- 
ingstone was  detained  by  the  flooded  streams  on  the  prairies 
south  of  the  Chobe.  As  the  news  of  his  being  in  the  neigh- 
borhood reached  them,  their  countenances  fell ; and  when  some 
Makololo  who  had  assisted  him  to  cross  the  river  returned  with 
the  hats  which  lie  had  given  them,  the  Mamb&ri  betook  them- 
selves to  precipitate  flight.  The  Makololo  inquired  the  cause 
of  such  haste,  and  were  told  that  if  Livingstone  found  them 
there,  he  would  take  all  their  slaves  and  goods  from  them  ; 
and  though  assured  by  Sekeletu  that  Livingstone  was  not  a 
robber,  but  a man  of  peace,  they  fled  by  night,  while  he  was 
still  sixty  miles  off. 

The  chieftainship  of  Sekeletu  had  been  opposed,  and  still 
was,  by  a man  named  Mpepe,  a person  to  whom  Sebituane  had 
committed  the  care  of  certain  of  his  affairs  at  a distance  from 
the  capital.  This  man  was  in  league  with  the  slave  traders, 
and  himself  aspired  to  be  chief.  He  had  provided  himself 
with  a smalLbattle-axe,  and  had  declared  his  intention  of  cut- 
ting Sekeletu  down  the  first  time  they  met.  Livingstone’s  ob- 
ject was,  first  of  all,  to  examine  the  country  for  a healthy 
locality  before  attempting  to  make  a path  to  either  the  east  or 
the  west  coast,  and,  with  this  in  view,  he  proposed  to  the  chief 
the  plan  of  ascending  the  great  river  which  he  had  discovered 
in  1851.  Sekeletu  volunteered  to  accompany  him ; and  when 
they  had  got  about  sixty  miles  on  their  way,  they  encountered 
Mpepe.  The  Makololo,  though  having  abundance  of  cattle, 
had  never  used  them  for  riding  purposes  till  the  traveller  had 
suggested  the  practice  in  1851.  Sekeletu  and  his  companions 


116  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TEE  CONTINENT. 


were  now  on  ox-back.  Mpepe,  armed  with  his  axo,  when  he 
saw  them  ran  towards  them  with  all  his  might,  but  Sekeletu, 
being  on  his  guard,  galloped  off  to  an  adjacent  village.  Mpepe 
had  given  his  own  party  to  understand  that  he  would  cut  down 
Sekeletu,  either  on  their  first  meeting,  or  at  the  breaking  up 
of  their  first  conference.  The  former  intention  had  been  frus- 
trated, but  he  determined  to  effect  his  purpose  at  the  close  of 
their  first  interview.  Livingstone  happened  to  sit  down  be- 
tween the  two  in  the  hut  in  which  they  met.  Being  fatigued 
with  riding  all  day  in  the  sun,  he  soon  asked  the  chief  where 
he  was  to  sleep,  and  lie  replied,  u Come,  I will  show  you.”  As 
they  rose  together,  he  unconsciously  covered  Sekelctu’s  body 
with  his  own,  and  so  saved  him  from  the  stroke  of  the  assassin. 
He  knew  nothing  of  the  plot,  but  remarked  that  all  Mpepe’s 
men  retained  their  arms,  even  after  the  party  had  sat  down — 
a thing  quite  unusual  in  the  presence  of  a chief;  and  when 
Sekeletu  showed  him  the  hut  in  which  he  was  to  spend  the 
night,  he  said,  u That  man  wishes  to  kill  me.”  Livingstone 
afterwards  learnt  that  some  of  Mpepe’s  attendants  had 
divulged  the  secret ; and  this  man  having  been  dangerous 
even  before  Sebituane’s  death,  Sekeletu,  bearing  in  mind  his 
father’s  instructions,  had  him  put  to  death  that  night.  The 
affair  was  managed  so  quietly  that,  although  Livingstone  was 
sleeping  a few  yards  from  the  scene,  he  knew  nothing  of  it 
till  tJ  ic  next  morning.  Nokuane,  one  of  Sekeletu’s  officers, 
went  to  the  fire  at  which  Mpepe  sat,  with  a handful  of  snuff, 
as  if  he  were  about  to  sit  down  and  regale  him.  Mpepe  said 
to  him,  “Nespisa”  (give  me  a pinch),  and  as  he  held  out  hn 
hand  Noku&ne  caught  hold  of  it,  while  another  man  seized 
the  other  hand,  and,  leading  him  out  a mile,  they  speared  him. 
Such  is  the  common  mode  of  executing  criminals. 

Soon  after  Livingstone’s  arrival  at  Linyanti,  Sekeletu  had 
taken  him  aside,  and  pressed  him  to  mention  the  things  he 
liked  best,  and  which  he  hoped  to  get  from  him : anything, 
either  in  or  out  of  his  town,  should  be  freely  given  if  he  would 
only  mention  it.  Livingstone  explained  to  him  that  his  object 
was  to  elevate  him  and  his  people  to  be  Christians  ; but  lie  re- 
plied that  he  did  not  wish  to  learn  the  Book,  for  he  was  afraid 
“ it  might  change  his  heart,  and  make  him  content  with  only 
one  wife  like  Sechele.”  It  was  of  little  use  to  urge  that  the 
change  of  heart  implied  satisfaction  with  all  that  was  right, 
and  dislike  to  all  that  was  wrong. 

The  Makololo  are  great  cattle-breeders,  and  take  pride  in  all 
their  domestic  animals.  The  women  work,  but  little,  the  tilling 


MOONLIGHT  DANCE. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  H7 


of  the  soil  being  for  the  most  part  done  by  the  subject  tribes. 
The  women  drink  large  quantities  of  boyadoa,  or  beer,  which 
is  very  nutritious,  and  gives  them  that  plumpness  of  form 
which  is  considered  beautiful.  They  dislike  being  seen  at 
their  potations  by  persons  of  the  opposite  sex.  They  cut  their 
woolly  hair  quite  short,  and  delight  in  having  the  whole  per- 
son shining  with  butter.  Their  dress  is  a kilt  reaching  to  the 
knees  ; its  material  is  ox-hide,  made  as  soft  as  cloth.  It  is  not 
ungraceful.  A soft  skin  mantle  is  thrown  across  the  shoulders 
when  the  lady  is  unemployed,  but  when  engaged  in  any  sort 
of  labor  she  throws  this  aside,  and  works  with  kilt  alone. 
The  ornaments  most  coveted  are  large  brass  anklets  as  thick  as 
the  little  finger,  and  armlets  of  both  brass  and  ivory,  the  latter 
often  an  inch  broad.  The  rings  are  so  heavy  that  the  ankles 
are  often  blistered  by  the  weight  pressing  down  ; but  it  is  the 
fashion,  and  is  borne  with  as  much  fortitude  as  tight  lacing 
and  tight  shoes  among  ourselves.  Strings  of  beads  are  hung 
around  the  neck,  and  the  fashionable  colors  being  light  green 
and  pink,  a trader  could  get  almost  anything  he  chose  for  beads 
of  these  colors. 

“ At  our  public  religious  services  in  the  kotla,  the  Makololo 
women  always  behaved  with  decorum  from  the  first,  except  at 
the  conclusion  of  the  prayer.  When  all  knelt  down,  many  of 
those  who  had  children,  in  following  the  example  of  the  rest, 
bent  over  their  little  ones ; the  children,  in  terror  of  being 
crushed  to  death,  set  up  a simultaneous  yell,  which  so  tickled 
the  whole  assembly  that  there  was  often  a subdued  titter,  to  be 
turned  into  a hearty  laugh  as  soon  as  they  heard  Amen.  This 
was  not  so  difficult  to  overcome  in  them  as  similar  peccadilloes 
were  in  the  case  of  the  women  farther  south.  Long  after  we 
had  settled  at  Mabotsa,  when  preaching  on  the  most  solemn 
subject,  a woman  might  be  observed  to  look  around,  and,  see- 
ing a neighbor  seated  on  her  dress,  give  her  a hunch  with  the 
elbow  to  make  her  move  off;  the  other  would  return  it  with 
interest,  and  perhaps  the  remark,  £ Take  that  nasty  thing 
away,  will  you?’  Then  three  or  four  would  begin  to  hustle 
the  first  offenders,  and  the  men  to  swear  at  them  all,  by  way  of 
enforcing  silence.” 

Livingstone  proposed  to  teach  the  Makololo  to  read  ; but  they 
at  first  declined.  After  some  weeks,  however,  Motibe,  Seke- 
letu’s  father-in-law,  and  some  others  determined  to  brave  the 
mysterious  book.  Sekeletu  himself  and  some  of  his  compan- 
ions followed  this  example,  by  and  by ; but  before  much  prog- 
ress could  be  made  the  missionary  was  on  his  way  to  Loanda. 


118  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


As  he  had  declined  to  name  anything  as  a present  from  the 
chief,  except  a canoe  to  take  him  np  the  river,  the  latter 
brought  him  ten  fine  elephants’  tusks  one  day,  and  laid  them 
down  beside  the  wagon.  He  would  take  no  denial,  although 
Livingstone  told  him  that  he  should  prefer  to  see  him  trading 
with  Fleming,  a negro  from  the  West  Indies,  who  had  accom- 
panied him,  and  who  had  come  for  the  purpose.  Livingstone 
had  during  the  eleven  years  of  his  previous  course  invariably 
abstained  from  taking  presents  of  ivory,  having  the  idea  that 
a religious  instructor  degrades  himself  by  taking  presents  from 
those  whose  spiritual  welfare  he  professes  to  seek. 

Presents  were  always  given  to  the  chiefs  whom  he  visited, 
and  nothing  accepted  in  return  ; as  a rule  it  was  so : but  when 
Sebituane  (in  1851)  offered  some  ivory,  he  took  it,  and  was 
able  by  the  sale  of  it  to  present  Sekeletu  with  a number  of 
really  useful  articles  of  a higher  value  than  any  he  had  ever 
before  been  in  a position  to  present  to  any  chief.  He  had 
brought  with  him  as  presents,  besides  the  more  usual  gifts,  an 
improved  breed  of  goats,  fowls,  and  a pair  of  cats.  A supe- 
rior bull  was  bought  also  as  a gift  to  Sekeletu,  but  he  was 
compelled  to  leave  it  behind  on  account  of  its  having  become 
footsore.  He  had  endeavored  to  bring  this  animal  in  perform- 
ance of  a promise  which  he  had  made  to  Sebituane  before  he 
died.  That  chief  admiring  a calf  which  the  traveller  had 
with  him,  he  proposed  to  give  him  a cow  for  it ; it  was  pre- 
sented to  him  at  once,  and  a promise  made  to  bring  him  an- 
other and  a better  one.  Sekeletu  was  much  gratified  by  this 
attempt  to  keep  the  promise  which  had  been  made  to  his  father. 
The  Makololo  are  remarkably  fond  of  their  cattle,  and  have 
large  herds  of  them,  spending  much  time  in  ornamenting  and 
adorning  them.  They  use  all  the  skins  of  their  oxen  for 
making  either  mantles  or  shields. 

On  the  30th  of  May,  Livingstone  himself  was  seized  with 
fever  for  the  first  time.  He  had  reached  Linyanti  on  the  23d  ; 
and  as  his  habits  had  been  suddenly  changed  from  great  exer- 
tion to  comparative  inactivity,  this  was  the  result.  Anxious  to 
know  if  the  natives  were  acquainted  with  any  remedy  of  which 
he  was  ignorant,  he  requested  the  assistance  of  one  of  Sekele- 
tu’s  doctors.  He  submitted  to  the  doctor’s  treatment  for  a 
time,  but  ere  long  concluded  that  he  could  cure  the  fever 
more  quickly  himself.  Purgatives,  general  bleedings,  or  in- 
deed any  violent  remedies,  are  injurious.  If  one  employs  a 
wet  sheet  and  a mild  aperient  in  combination  with  quinine, 
and  in  addition  to  the  native  remedies,  he  will  usually  find 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  119 


such  means  effective.  There  is  a good  deal  in  not  “ giving  in  ” 
to  this  disease ; a man  who  is  low-spirited,  and  apt  to  despond 
at  ever}’  attack,  will  die  sooner  than  one  who  is  of  a hopeful 
temperament. 

"When  Livingstone  had  formerly  left  them  to  proceed  to  the 
Cape,  the  Makololo  had  made  a garden  for  him,  and  planted 
maize  in  it,  that,  as  they  said,  he  might  have  food  to  eat  when 
lie  returned,  as  well  as  other  people.  This  was  now  pounded  by 
the  women  into  fine  meal.  Sekeletu  added  to  this  good  supply 
of  meal  ten  or  twelve  jars  of  honey,  each  of  whicli  contained 
about  two  gallons.  Liberal  supplies  of  ground-nuts  (Arcichis 
hypogma)  were  also  furnished  every  time  the  tributary  tribes 
brought  their  dues  to  Linyanti,  and  an  ox  for  the  use  of  the 
party  was  given  every  week  or  two.  Sekeletu  also  appropriated 
two  cows  to  be  milked  for  them  every  morning  and  evening. 
Such  was  the  acknowledged  rule  throughout  this  country — the 
chief  being  expected  to  feed  all  strangers  who  came  to  him  on 
any  special  business,  and  took  up  their  abode  in  his  kotla.  A 
present  is  usually  given  for  the  hospitality,  but,  except  in  cases 
where  the  aboriginal  customs  have  been  modified,  nothing 
would  be  asked. 

The  Makololo  cultivate  a large  extent  of  land  around  their 
villages,  and  both  men  and  women  take  their  share  in  the 
labors  of  the  field.  The  great  chief  Moshesh  sets  an  example 
to  his  people  every  year,  by  not  only  taking  the  hoe  in  hand, 
but  working  hard  with  it  on  certain  public  occasions. 

The  tribes  which  Sebituane  subjected  in  this  great  country 
pass  by  the  general  name  of  Makalaka.  The  Makololo  were 
the  aristocracy.  The  nucleus  of  the  whole  were  Basuta,  who 
came  with  Sebituane  from  a comparatively  cold  and  hilly 
region  in  the  south.  When  he  conquered  various  tribes  of  the 
Bechuanas,  as  Bakwains,  Bangwaketze,  Bamangwato,  Batauana, 
and  others,  he  incorporated  the  young  of  those  tribes  into  his 
own. 

Livingstone,  having  remained  a month  at  Linyanti,  set  out 
to  ascend  the  river  from  Sesheke.  He  went  to  Nariele,  or 
Naliele,  the  capital  of  the  Barotse  country  (lat.  15°  24/  27"  S., 
long.  23°  5'  54:"  E.),  in  company  with  Sekeletu  and  about  a 
hundred  and  sixty  attendants.  The  country  between  Linyanti 
and  Sesheke  is  flat,  with  the  exception  of  occasional  patches 
elevated  a few  feet  above  the  surrounding  level.  There  are 
also  many  mounds  where  the  gigantic  ant-hills  of  the  country 
have  been  situated  or  still  appear.  These  mounds  are  evi- 
dently the  work  of  the  termites,  and  the  industry  of  these  little 


120  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


laborers  is  astonishing  as  one  looks  upon  the  gigantic  structures 
which  they  have  reared.  Troops  of  leches  appeared  feeding 
quite  heedlessly  all  over  the  flats  ; and  although  very  many  of 
them  and  of  the  “ nakong”  are  annually  killed,  the  herds  con- 
tinue to  be  enormous. 

When  the  party  arrived  at  any  village,  the  women  all  turned 
out  to  lulliloo  their  chief.  Their  shrill  voices,  to  which  they 
give  a tremulous  sound  by  a quick  motion  of  the  tongue,  peal 
forth  “ Great  lion ! ” “ Great  chief ! ” “ Sleep,  my  lord  ! ” and 
so  on.  The  men  utter  similar  salutations ; and  the  chief  mean- 
while receives  all  with  becoming  indifference.  After  a few 
minutes’  conversation,  large  pots  of  beer  are  produced,  and  also 
pots  and  basins  of  thick  milk.  The  chief  either  selects  an  ox 
or  two  from  his  own  numerous  cattle  stations,  or  is  presented 
by  the  headman  of  the  village,  in  the  way  of  tribute,  with 
what  he  needs.  Sekeletu  and  Livingstone  had  each  a gypsy- 
tent  in  which  to  sleep,  and  it  was  fortunate,  as  the  native  huts 
are  hardly  inviting  to  the  uninitiated.  “The  Makololo  huts,” 
says  Livingstone,  “ are  generally  clean,  while  those  of  the  Maka- 
laka  are  infested  with  vermin.  The  cleanliness  of  the  former 
is  owing  to  the  habit  of  frequently  smearing  the  floors  with  a 
plaster  composed  of  cow-dung  and  earth.  If  we  slept  in  the 
tent  in  some  villages,  the  mice  ran  over  our  faces  and  disturbed 
our  sleep,  or  hungry,  prowling  dogs  would  eat  our  shoes  and 
leave  only  the  soles ; when  they  were  guilty  of  this  and  other 
misdemeanors,  we  got  the  loan  of  a hut.  The  best  sort  of 
Makololo  huts  consist  of  three  circular  walls,  with  small  holes 
as  doors,  each  similar  to  that  in  a dog-house ; and  it  is  neces- 
sary to  bend  down  the  body  to  get  in,  even  when  on  all  fours. 
The  roof  is  formed  of  reeds  or  straight  sticks,  in  shape  like  a 
Chinaman’s  hat,  bound  flrmly  together  with  circular  bands, 
which  are  lashed  with  the  strong  inner  bark  of  the  mimosa- 
tree.  When  all  prepared  except  the  thatch,  it  is  lifted  on  tp 
the  circular  wall,  the  rim  resting  on  a circle  of  poles,  between 
each  of  which  the  third  wall  is  built.  The  roof  is  thatched 
with  fine  grass,  and  sewed  with  the  same  material  as  the  lash- 
ings; and,  as  it  projects  far  beyond  the  walls,  and  reaches 
within  four  feet  of  the  ground,  the  shade  is  the  best  to  be 
found  in  the  country.  These  huts  are  very  cool  in  the  hottest 
day,  but  are  close  and  deficient  in  ventilation  by  night.” 

Their  course  led  them  to  a part  above  Sesheke,  called  Ka- 
tonga,  where  there  is  a village,  belonging  to  a Bashubia  man 
named  Sekhosi  (lat.  17°  29'  13"  S.,lon.  20°  33'  E).  The  river 
here  is  certainly  not  less  than  six  hundred  yards  broad.  Several 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  121 


days  were  necessarily  spent  in  collecting  canoes  for  the  ascent 
of  the  river.  To  assist  in  the  support  of  the  large  party,  Liv- 
ingstone went  out  several  times  with  his  gun.  The  country 
abounds  with  game, — buffaloes,  zebras,  tsessebes,  tahaetsi,  elands, 
and  other  kinds,  lie  shot  a beautiful  eland,  a new  variety,  upon 
seeing  which  one  of  the  Makololo  who  accompanied  him,  “a 
gentleman,”  speaking  in  reference  to  its  extraordinary  beaut}*, 
said,  M Jesus  ought  to  have  given  us  these  instead  of  cattle.” 
The  river  is  here  called  the  Leeambye.  On  the  occasion  of  his 
first  visit,  ho  had  called  it  after  the  town  Sesheke.  Sesheke 
means  “ white  sand-banks,”  many  of  which  exist  here.  Leeam- 
bye means  “ the  large  river,”  or  the  river  par  excellence. 
Luambeje,  Luambesi,  Ambezi,  Ojimbesi,  Zambesi,  and  other 
names  are  applied  to  it  at  different  parts  of  its  course — all 
having  a similar  signification. 

Having  at  last  procured  a sufficient  number  of  canoes,  they 
began  to  ascend  the  river.  Sekeletu  had  ten  paddlers,  and 
Livingstone  six.  The  fleet  consisted  of  thirty-three  canoes. 
They  proceeded  rapidly  upwards,  and  Livingstone  had  the 
pleasure  of  looking  on  lands  which  had  never  before  been  seen 
by  the  eyes  of  any  European.  The  river  is  indeed  magnifi- 
cent, being  often  more  than  a mile  broad,  and  adorned  with 
many  islands  of  from  three  to  five  miles  in  length.  The 
islands  and  banks  are  covered  with  forest,  and  the  scenery  all 
along  is  extremely  beautiful.  Great  quantities  of  grain  are 
raised  by  the  Banyeti,  and  many  of  the  villages  of  these  indus- 
trious people  are  to  be  found  on  both  banks.  The  Banyeti  are 
expert  hunters,  and  very  skilful  in  the  manufacture  of  various 
articles  in  wood  and  iron. 

From  the  bend  of  the  river  up  to  the  north,  called  Katima- 
molcdo  (I  quenched  fire),  the  bed  of  the  stream  is  rocky,  the 
current  is  fast,  and  forms  a succession  of  rapids  and  cataracts, 
which  prevent  continuous  navigation  when  it  is  low.  The 
rapids  are  not  visible  when  the  river  is  full,  but  the  cataracts 
of  Nainbwe,  Bombwe,  and  Kale  must  always  be  dangerous. 
The  fall  at  each  of  these  is  from  four  to  six  feet.  The  falls  at 
Gonye  present  a much  more  serious  obstacle.  They  were 
there  obliged  to  take  their  canoes  out  of  the  water  and  carry 
them  more  than  a mile  by  land ; the  fall  being  about  thirty 
feet. 

As  they  passed  up  the  river,  the  different  villages  of  Banyeti 
turned  out  to  present  Sekeletu  with  food  and  skins,  as  their 
tribute.  When  they  came  to  about  16°  10'  S.  lat.  the  high 
wooded  banks  seemed  to  leave  the  river.  Viewed  from  the 


122  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 

flat,  reedy  basin  in  which  the  river  then  flowed,  the  banks 
seemed  to  be  prolonged  into  ridges  of  the  same  wooded  charac- 
ter two  or  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  stretched  away  to  the 
N.  N.  E.  and  N.  N.  W.  until  they  were  twenty  or  thirty  miles 
apart.  The  intervening  space,  nearly  one  hundred  miles  in 
length,  with  the  Leeambye  winding  gently  near  the  middle,  is 
the  true  Barotse  valley.  It  closely  resembles  the  valley  of  the 
Nile,  and  is  inundated  annually  by  the  Leeambye  as  Lower 
Egypt  is  flooded  by  the  Nile.  The  soil  is  extremely  fertile, 
and  the  people  are  never  in  want  of  grain.  The  Barotse  are 
strongly  attached  to  this  fertile  valley ; they  say,  “ Here 
hunger  is  not  known.”  Yet  this  great  valley  is  not  put  to  a 
tithe  of  the  use  it  might  be.  It  is  covered  with  coarse,  succu- 
lent grasses,  one  species  being  twelve  feet  high,  and  as  thick 
as  a man’s  thumb.  There  are  no  large  towns,  as  the  house- 
holders require  to  live  far  apart  on  account  of  their  cattle. 
The  villages  of  the  Barotse  are  built  in  mounds,  some  of  which 
are  said  to  have  been  raised  artificially  by  Santaru,  a former 
chief  of  the  Barotse,  and  during  the  season  of  flood  the  entire 
valley  assumes  the  appearance  of  a lake  with  small  islands 
dotted  here  and  there  over  its  expanse.  Naliele,  the  capital,  is 
constructed  on  one  of  these  mounds  constructed  by  Santaru, 
and  was  his  storehouse  for  grain.  All  that  remained  at  the 
time  of  Livingstone’s  visit  of  the  largest  mound  in  the  valley 
was  a few  cubic  yards  of  earth,  to  erect  which  cost  the  whole 
of  the  people  of  Santaru  the  labor  of  many  years. 

This  was  the  first  visit  of  Sekeletu  to  these  parts  since  he 
had  attained  the  chieftainship.  Those  who  had  taken  part 
with  Mpepc  were  consequently  in  great  terror.  When  the 
party  came  to  the  town  of  Mpepe’s  father,  he  and  another  man 
having  counselled  Mamochis&ne  to  put  Sekeletu  to  death  and 
marry  Mpepe,  the  two  were  led  forth  and  tossed  into  the  river. 
Remonstrance  against  the  deed  on  the  part  of  Livingstone  was . 
wholly  without  effect. 

While  still  at  Naliele,  Livingstone  walked  out  to  Kataya 
(lat.  15°  16'  33")  on  the  ridge  which  bounds  the  valley  of  the 
Barotse,  and  found  it  covered  with  trees.  He  imagined  that 
Kataya  might  be  a healthy  location,  but  was  informed  that  no 
part  of  this  region  is  exempt  from  fever — even  the  natives  sel- 
dom escaping  its  malignant  attacks.  Returning  to  Naliele  he 
continued  to  ascend  the  river,  going  up  as  far  as  the  town  of 
Libasta.  Beyond  this  point  the  forests  approached  to  the  very 
water’s  edge  and  the  tsetse  reappeared.  Hearing  that  he  was 
near  a great  river  called  Leeba,  which  came  from  the  country 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  123 


of  Londa,  lie  pushed  on  and  came  to  the  confluence  of  the  Leeba 
and  the  Zambesi  (in  lat.  14°  11'  3").  The  Zambesi  is  the 
larger  stream,  but  the  Leeba  is  a magnificent  river  250  yards 
wide  at  the  mouth.  In  this  ascent  of  the  river,  Livingstone 
visited  many  villages  of  the  Makololo,  and  was  always  received 
with  cordiality  as  a messenger  of  peace,  which  they  term 
44  sleep.”  They  behaved  well  at  all  public  meetings,  even  on 
occasions  of  their  first  attendance. 

“ As  this  was  the  first  visit  which  Sekeletu  had  paid  to  this 
part  of  his  dominions,  it  was  to  many  a season  of  great  joy. 
The  headmen  of  each  village  presented  oxen,  milk,  and  beer, 
more  than  the  horde  which  accompanied  him  could  devour, 
though  their  abilities  in  that  line  are  something  wonderful. 
The  people  usually  show  their  joy  and  work  off  their  excite- 
ment in  dances  and  songs.  The  dance  consists  of  the  men 
standing  nearly  naked  in  a circle,  with  clubs  or  small  battle- 
axes  in  their  hands,  and  each  roaring  at  the  loudest  pitch  of 
his  voice,  while  they  simultaneously  lift  one  leg,  stamp  heavily 
twice  with  it,  then  lift  the  other  and  give  one  stamp  with  that ; 
this  is  the  only  movement  in  common.  The  arms  and  head 
are  often  thrown  about  also  in  every  direction ; and  all  this 
time  the  roaring  is  kept  up  with  the  utmost  possible  vigor;  the 
continued  stamping  makes  a cloud  of  dust  ascend,  and  they 
leave  a deep  ring  in  the  ground  where  they  stood.  If  the 
scene  were  witnessed  in  a lunatic  asylum  it  would  be  nothing 
out  of  the  way,  and  quite  appropriate  even,  as  a means  of  let- 
ting off  the  excessive  excitement  of  the  brain ; but  here  gray- 
headed men  joined  in  the  performance  with  as  much  zest  as 
others  whose  youth  might  bean  excuse  for  making  the  perspira- 
tion stream  off  their  bodies  with  the  exertion.  Motibe  asked 
what  I thought  of  the  Makololo  dance.  I replied, 4 It  is  very 
hard  work,  and  brings  but  small  profit/  4 It  is,’  replied  he, 
4 but  it  is  very  nice,  and  Sekeletu  will  give  us  an  ox  for  danc- 
ing for  him/  He  usually  does  slaughter  an  ox  for  the  dancers 
when  the  work  is  over.  The  women  stand  by,  clapping  their 
hands,  and  occasionally  one  advances  into  the  circle,  composed 
of  a hundred  men,  makes  a few  movements,  and  then  retires.” 

It  wa9  now  quite  plain  that  no  healthy  location  could  be 
obtained  in  which  he  could  settle  as  a missionary  with  the 
Makololo,  and  hope  to  live  in  peace ; and  he  says,  44 1 might, 
therefore,  have  come  home  and  said  that  the  door  was  shut. 
But,  believing  that  it  was  my  duty  to  devote  some  portion 
of  my  life  to  these  (to  me  at  least)  very  confiding  and 
affectionate  Makololo,  I resolved  to  follow  out  the  second  part 


124  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


of  my  plan,  though  I had  failed  in  accomplishing  the  first.” 
And  with  this  determination  lie  ultimately  proceeded  across 
the  continent  to  Loanda.  During  these  past  nine  weeks,  he 
had  been  in  closer  contact  with  heathenism  than  even  he  had 
experienced  before ; and  though  all,  including  the  chief,  had 
been  as  kind  and  attentive  to  iiim  as  possible,  and  although  he 
had  suffered  no  want  of  any  kind,  yet  the  dancing,  roaring, 
and  singing,  the  jesting,  anecdotes,  grumbling,  quarrelling,  and 
murdering  of  these  children  of  nature,  seemed  more  like  a 
severe  penance  than  anything  he  had  ever  endured  before  in 
the  whole  course  of  his  missionary  experience.  “ Even  the  in- 
direct benefits  which  result  from  the  diffusion  of  Christianity 
are  worth  all  the  labor  and  the  money  which  have  been  ex- 
pended to  produce  them.” 

Rapidly  descending  the  river,  and  arriving  again  at  Linyanti, 
Livingstone  now  prepared  for  the  prosecution  of  his  journey 
to  Loanda.  He  might  have  made  arrangements  with  the 
Mambari  to  permit  him  to  accompany  them  as  far  as  Bihe, 
which  is  on  the  road  to  St.  Philip  de  Benguela,  a port  which 
was  nearer  than  Loanda,  but  it  was  undesirable  to  travel  in  a 
path  once  trodden  by  slave-traders,  and  therefore  he  preferred 
another  route.  The  Mambari  had  informed  him  that  many 
English  lived  at  Loanda,  and  he  prepared  to  go  thither. 

He  was  strongly  dissuaded  from  making  any  such  attempt 
as  this — “He  would  die  of  fever;”  “He  would  certainly  be 
killed ; ” “ Your  garments  already  smell  of  blood.”  Such  was 
the  utterance  of  the  old  diviners.  But  Sebituane  had  formerly 
set  down  such  visions  to  cowardice,  and  Sekeletu  only  laughed 
at  them  now.  The  general  voice  was  in  Livingstone’s  favor ; 
and  a band  of  twenty -seven  men  were  appointed  to  accompany 
him  to  the  west.  These  men  were  not  hired,  but  went  to 
enable  him  to  accomplish  an  object  as  much  desired  by  the 
chief  and  his  people  as  by  himself.  They  were  eager  to  obtain 
free  and  profitable  trade  with  white  men. 

The  three  men  whom  he  had  brought  from  Kuruman  had 
frequent  relapses  of  fever;  he  therefore  decided  that  they 
should  return  with  Fleming,  the  trader,  when  the  latter  should 
be  ready  to  return  south ; and  thus  he  was  entirely  dependent 
upon  his  twenty-seven  men  whom,  he  says,  “ I might  name 
Zambesians,  for  there  were  two  Makololo  only,  while  the  rest 
consisted  of  Barotse,  Batoka,  Bashubia,  and  two  of  the 
Am  bon  da.” 

His  impediments  did  not  burden  the  party  to  any  great  ex- 
tent. Ho  had  no  expectation  of  succeeding  by  means  of  what 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  125 


ho  took  with  him,  if  lie  could  not  accomplish  his  purpose  by 
the  help  of  what  was  in  him.  lie  wras  rather  despondent  than 
otherwise  when  he  left  Sekeletu  and  his  principal  men  on  the 
11  th  of  November,  1853,  to  embark  on  the  Chobe.  But  he 
“ had  always  believed  that,  if  we  serve  God  at  all,  it  ought  to 
be  done  in  a manly  way,”  and  he  w’as  determined  to  succeed 
or  perish  in  the  attempt  to  open  up  this  part  of  Africa.” 

lie  again  reached  the  town  of  Scsheke  on  the  17th  of  Nov- 
ember, and  gave  many  public  addresses  to  the  people — his 
audiences  sometimes  amounting  to  as  many  as  live  or  six  hun- 
dred. Their  progress  up  the  river  was  rather  slow.  This  was 
caused  by  waiting  opposite  different  villages  for  food — Pitsanc, 
his  Makololo  man,  being  resolved  to  carry  out  the  instructions 
which  lie  had  received  on  this  point  from  his  chief  Sekeletu. 

The  rapids  of  the  Chobe  are  caused  by  rocks  of  dark  brown 
trap,  or  of  hardened  sandstone,  stretching  quite  across  the 
river.  They  form  miles  of  such  a bottom  in  some  places, 
studded  with  islands.  These  rocks,  in  certain  instances,  are 
covered  with  a small  aquatic  plant  which  seems  to  contain 
much  stony  matter  in  its  substance,  and  which  appears  to  have 
a disintegrating  power  upon  the  rocks  themselves.  Many 
forest-trees  line  the  banks ; turtle-doves  and  others  which  are 
well  known  abound;  but  there  are  varieties  of  the  species 
which  are  new.  Some  are  musical.  Guinea-fowl  are  plenti- 
ful ; and  on  dead  trees  and  rocks  may  be  seen  many  varieties 
of  the  darter,  or  snake-bird.  It  sits  most  of  the  day  sunning 
itself — its  chief  feeding-time  being  at  night.  It  is  a most  ex- 
pert diver.  Its  rump  is  prolonged  and  flexible,  capable  of 
being  used  as  a rudder,  and  also  of  being  so  employed  as  to  lift 
the  creature  so  far  out  of  the  water  as  to  give  free  scope  to  the 
wings.  When  this  is  not  wanted,  the  swimming  is  very  low, 
so  that  little  of  the  bird  is  seen  besides  the  head.  The  fish- 
hawk  is  frequently  to  be  met  with,  and  near  it  dead  fish,  more 
having  been  killed  than  his  lordship  required.  There  is  always 
a portion  of  every  fish  left  behind,  only  certain  tit-bits  having 
been  used.  These  are  thankfully  appropriated  by  the  Barotse, 
who  live  near. 

The  rapids  between  Katima-molelo  and  Nameta  have  close 
by  them  much  deep  wrater,  in  considerable  lengths  or  reaches, 
aiid  in  these  there  are  multitudes  of  hippopotami. 

At  the  falls  of  the  Gonye,  the  canoes  were  carried  around 
the  rapids  slung  on  poles.  At  these  falls  the  river  is  so  narrow 
as,  in  some  places,  to  be  not  more  than  a hundred  yards  wide. 
The  water,  when  in  flood,  rises  fifty  or  sixty  feet  in  perpendicn- 


126  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


lar  height.  The  islands  above  the  falls  are  very  beautiful. 
The  people  are  usually  very  kind  to  travellers,  and  present 
them  with  oxen,  butter,  milk,  and  meal.  The  cows,  at  certain 
seasons,  yield  more  milk  than  the  inhabitants  can  use.  The 
rains  are  sometimes  e&rly,  sometimes  late,  but  there  is  never 
in  the  Barotse  valley  any  scarcity  of  food. 

Leaving  Naliele,  amid  abundance  of  good  wishes  for  the 
success  of  the  expedition,  and  proceeding  up  the  Leeambye, 
the  banks  were  found  in  some  places  to  consist  of  a light- 
colored  clay,  with  strata  of  black  clay  intermixed ; at  other 
parts  they  are  black  loam  in  sand,  or  pure  sand  stratified. 
When  the  water  is  low,  they  are  from  four  to  eight  feet  high. 
When  the  floods  come,  the  one  side  or  the  other  is  worn  away, 
and,  from  one  bend  to  another,  new  channels  are,  at  such  sea- 
sons, continually  being  formed.  Here  the  flow  averages  about 
five  miles — i.e.,  when  the  water  is  neither  low  nor  in  full  flood. 
The  banks  being  perpendicular,  afford  hiding-places  for  a 
pretty  bee-eater  which  breeds  there.  Hundreds  of  holes,  lead- 
ing to  their  nests,  may  be  counted  for  long  distances.  A 
speckled  kingfisher,  which  builds  in  similar  places,  may  fre- 
quently be  seen.  There  is  also  a most  beautiful  variety  of 
kingfisher,  blue  and  orange,  everywhere  abounding  by  the 
water-side.  And  still  a third  species,  about  the  size  of  a pigeon, 
of  a slaty  color.  This  is  not  so  frequently  seen.  The  sand- 
martin  abounds  at  all  seasons,  and  never  migrates. 

Libontawas  the  next  town  arrived  at,  and  is  the  last  town  of 
the  Makololo.  It  is  situated  on  a mound,  like  the  rest  of  the 
villages  of  the  Barotse  valley.  Beyond  there  are  only  some 
cattle  stations  and  small  hamlets,  and  then  an  uninhabited 
border-land  reaching  far  onward  in  the  direction  of  Londa,  or 
Lunda.  Beyond  the  inhabited  parts,  the  country  abounds  in 
animal  life  in  great  variety  of  form.  There  are  upwards  of 
thirty  descriptions  of  birds.  The  ibis  comes  down  the  Lee- 
ambye by  hundreds,  as  on  the  Nile.  There  are  large  white 
pelicans,  in  flocks  of  two  or  three  hundred,  and  innumerable 
plovers,  snipes,  curlews,  and  herons.  Besides  these  there  are, 
less  commonly  known,  the  white  ardetta,  in  flocks,  settling  on 
the  backs  of  large  herds  of  buffaloes ; and  the  kala,  with  the 
strange-looking  scissor-bill,  which  may  also  be  seen  sitting  in 
large  numbers  on  the  withers  of  buffaloes  when  the  herd  is  at 
full  speed.  There  are  many  spoonbills,  the  flamingo,  the 
Numidian  crane,  and  two  varieties  of  crane  besides.  Gulls 
abound.  One  little  wader,  an  avoset,  appears,  on  account  of 
the  length  of  its  legs,  as  if  it  were  standing  on  stilts ; while 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  127 


another,  the  Parra  Africana , rims  about  on  the  surface  of  the 
water.  It  has  long  legs  also,  extremely  thin,  with  wide-spread- 
ing toes.  So  marvellously  is  it  adapted  to  its  mode  of  life,  that 
on  account  of  the  spread  of  its  toes,  it  can  stand  on  a lotus-leaf 
not  more  than  five  inches  in  diameter,  never  sinking,  but  ob- 
taining its  livelihood,  not  by  .swimming  or  flying,  but  by  catch- 
ing its  insects  while  it  walks  on  the  water.  Everywhere  in  the 
Rarotsc  valley  there  arc  largo  flocks  of  black  geese  ; there  are 
also  other  varieties  of  geese,  and  many  ducks  of  different 
kinds.  There  arc  very  many  alligators  in  the  river.  Vast 
herds  of  wild  animals  occupy  the  plains,  among  them  being 
several  beautiful  and  new  species  of  antelopes. 

Livingstone,  on  the  occasion  of  his  visiting  these  scenes  for 
the  first  time,  was  detained  for  some  days,  in  order  that  he 
might  return  to  their  homes  some  dozen  captives,  the  people  of 
Makoma,  whom  lie  had  induced  their  captors  to  restore.  The 
same  kindly  act  had  been  performed  on  behalf  of  others.  This 
was  thirty  or  forty  miles  above  Libonta.  At  the  confluence 
of  thcLceba  and  Lecambye,  he  and  his  people  spent  a Sunday, 
and  lie  says : 

t;  Rains  had  fallen  here  before  we  came,  and  the  woods  had 
put  on  their  gayest  hue.  Flowers  of  great  beauty  and  curious 
form  grow  everywhere.  The  ground  begins  to  swarm  with 
insect  life ; and  in  the  cool,  pleasant  mornings  the  welkin 
rings  with  the  singing  of  birds,  which  is  not  so  delightful 
as  the  singing  of  birds  at  home,  because  I have  not  been 
familiar  with  them  from  infancy.  The  notes,  however, 
strike  the  mind  by  their  loudness  and  variety,  as  the  wellings 
forth,  from  joyous  hearts,  of  praise  to  Him  who  fills  them  with 
overflowing  gladness.  All  of  us  rise  early  to  enjoy  the  luscious, 
balmy  air  of  the  morning.  We  then  have  worship;  but 
amidst  all  the  beauty  and  loveliness  with  which  we  are  sur- 
rounded, there  is  still  a feeling  of  want  in  the  soul  in  viewing 
one’s  poor  companions,  and  hearing  bitter,  impure  words  jar- 
ring on  the  ear  in  the  perfection  of  the  scenes  of  nature,  and  a 
longing  that  both  their  hearts  and  ours  might  be  brought  into 
harmony  with  the  Great  Father  of  spirits.  I pointed  out,  as 
usual,  in  the  simplest  words  I could  employ,  the  remedy  which 
God  has  presented  to  us,  in  the  inexpressibly  precious  gift  of 
His  own  Son,  on  whom  the  Lord  ‘laid  the  iniquity  of  us  all.’ 
The  great  difficulty  in  dealing  with  these  people  is  to  make  the 
subject  plain.  The  minds  of  the  auditors  cannot  be  under- 
stood by  one  who  has  not  mingled  much  with  them.  They 
readily  pray  for  the  forgiveness  of  sins,  and  then  sin  again ; 


128  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


confess  the  evil  of  it,  and  there  the  matter  ends.  I shall  not 
often  advert  to  their  depravity.  My  practice  has  always  been 
to  apply  the  remedy  with  all  possible  earnestness,  but  never 
to  allow  my  mind  to  dwell  on  the  dark  shades  of  men’s 
characters.” 

The  confluence  of  the  Leeambye  and  Leeba  was  reached  on 
the  27th  of  December.  Just  below  it  the  banks  of  the  former 
are  twenty  feet  high,  and  are  composed  of  marly  sandstone. 
These  are  covered  with  trees,  and  on  the  left  is  the  tsetse, 
there  being  also  many  elephants.  The  floods  cover  these 
banks  ; but  as  they  do  not  remain  long,  the  trees  are  not  de- 
stroyed. On  the  right  bank  is  the  Manga,  a country  of  grass, 
with  but  few  trees.  Flocks  of  green  pigeons  abound  among 
the  trees.  Large  shoals  of  flsli  of  various  kinds  come  down 
the  Leeambye  with  the  floods.  Many  descriptions  of  fish  are 
left  by  the  retiring  waters  all  along  the  Barotse  valley  in  large 
numbers,  and  are  preserved  by  the  people  for  future  use. 
But  they  are  not  able  to  consume  the  abundance  with  which 
they  arc  furnished,  and  an  immense  quantity  is,  in  some  in- 
stances, left  to  putrefy  and  be  lost.  There  are  many  hippo- 
potami everywhere  along  the  river. 

From  the  confluence  downwards,  as  far  as  Mosioatunya, 
there  are  many  long  reaches  of  deep  water.  In  some  parts 
there  are  sand-banks,  but  in  others  there  are  many  miles  free 
from  such  obstructions ; for  example,  beyond  the  sand-banks 
below  the  confluence  of  the  Leoti,  there  is  a free  space  of  a 
hundred  miles  reaching  to  the  river  Siinah,  in  which  our  ordi- 
nary river  steamers  could  ply  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Again, 
there  are  hindrances  in  the  form  of  cataracts  and  rapids ; 
these  are  between  Simah  and  Katima-melolo ; but  from  the 
latter  place  to  the  confluence  of  the  Chobe  there  must  be  not 
far  from  a hundred  miles  of  a river  capable  of  being  safely 
navigated.  The  part  of  the  country  through  which  the  river 
flows  is  abundantly  fertile,  as  appears  from  the  strong,  rank 
growths  which  it  naturally  produces.  It  is  capable  of  support- 
ing millions. 

Ascending  the  Leeba,  the  water  is  found  to  be  darker  than 
that  of  the  main  stream,  which  here  assumes  the  name  of  the 
Kabompo.  The  Leeba  flows  with  steady  calmness,  and  receives 
many  small  streams  on  either  side.  It  winds  its  placid  way 
through  beautiful  meadows.  At  certain  seasons  these  have  the 
look  of  a carefully  kept  park.  There  are  vast  numbers  of 
flowers,  and  many  bees,  there  being  abundance  of  honey  in  the 
woods.  There  are  numbers  of  alligators  in  the  river ; but 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  129 


these  avoid  the  presence  of  man,  their  increase  in  number  being 
prevented  by  the  fact  that  the  natives  gather  their  eggs  and  eat 
them  with  much  relish.  The  egg  is  about  the  size  of  that  of  a 
goose.  Immediately  on  the  young  being  hatched,  the  dam  leads 
them  to  the  water,  the  nests  being  usually  about  ten  or  twelve 
feet  distant,  and  then  they  are  entirely  left  to  provide  for 
themselves. 

The  Lceba  has  but  little  flood  in  it.  There  are  not  many 
varieties,  nor  any  great  number  of  birds  or  fish;  nor  is  the 
game  abundant  along  its  banks.  It  chiefly  consists  of  the  zebra, 
the  buffalo,  and  a small  antelope.  There  is  much  superstition 
among  the  people,  and  now  and  then  indications  of  the  pres- 
ence of  idol  worship.  The  latter,  however,  are  rare.  The 
chiefs  arc  frequently  women.  Livingstone,  on  visiting  one  of 
these  named  Manenko,  found  her  arrayed  in  oil  and  red  ochre, 
with  numerous  ornaments  on  her  head,  and  wrists,  and  ankles, 
and  person — her  people,  so  far  as  true  garment  was  concerned, 
being  much  more  amply  clothed  than  herself.  She  was  “ a 
tall  strapping  woman  about  twenty.”  Her  husband,  Sambanza, 
was  clothed  in  a kilt  of  green  and  red  baize,  and  was  armed 
with  a spear  and  broadsword  of  antique  form.  All  communi- 
cation was  through  him  to  her,  to  whom  he  invariably  passed  it 
on.  It  is  always  impolitic  and  unsafe  to  pass  a chief  without 
explaining  one’s  purpose  and  design. 

The  houses  in  the  villages  which  these  people  occupy  are  sep- 
erate  dwellings,  and  well  stockaded.  An  enemy  coming  in  the 
night  would  find  it  difficult  to  effect  an  entrance.  Bows  and 
arrows,  not  guns,  as  farther  south,  are  their  arms ; but  they  have 
cleared  the  country  of  game  as  effectually  as  in  places  where 
fire-arms  are  in  use. 

The  forests  become  more  dense  the  farther  north  one  goes, 
and  in  these  forests  are  to  be  found  many  artificial  beehives. 
These  consist  of  about  five  feet  of  the  bark  of  a tree  fifteen  or 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter.  Two  incisions  are  made  quite 
round  the  tree  at  a distance  of  about  five  feet  from  each  other, 
and  then  a slit  is  made  from  the  one  to  the  other.  Next  day 
it  is  detached  from  the  tree.  The  slit  is  sewed  up,  or  the  sides 
are  pegged  together — ends  are  made  with  grass  rope,  an  open- 
ing in  the  centre  being  left  for  the  bees,  and  the  hive  is  com- 
plete. These  hives  are  placed  horizontally  on  high  trees,  and 
in  this  way  is  collected  all  the  wax  exported  from  Benguela  to 
Loanda.  In  the  rainy  seasons  great  quantities  of  mushrooms 
are  to  be  found.  The  deep  gloom  of  this  forest- covered  land 
contrasts  strongly  with  the  blinding  glare  of  the  Kalahari ; 

9 


130  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 

and,  though  constantly  soaked  and  steamed  from  day  to  dajr, 
much  enjoyment  may  be  experienced  by  the  traveller.  Every 
now  and  again  one  emerges  from  the  gloom  of  the  forest  into 
the  light  and  beanty  of  some  small  valley,  and  the  villages  arc 
just  about  as  numerous  as  the  valleys. 

Livingstone  was  desirous  of  continuing  his  ascent  of  the 
Leeba,  as  it  still  seemed  to  flow  from  the  direction  in  which  he 
must  go  in  order  to  reach  Loanda,  but  Manenko  insisted  so 
strenuously  on  his  visiting  her  brother  Sliinte,  or  Kaboinpo, 
the  greatest  Balonda  chief  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  his 
followers  were  so  indisposed  to  encounter  tribes  up  the  river 
who  were  represented  as  hostile,  that  he  was  compelled  to 
yield.  Shiute’s  capital  lay  some  distance  inland,  and  an  exten- 
sive plain,  which  in  the  rainy  season  is  ankle-deep  in  water, 
had  to  be  crossed  in  order  to  reach  it.  They  started  from  the 
Leeba  on  the  morning  of  the  11th  of  January  (1854)  escorted 
by  a numerous  party  headed  by  Manenko,  who  led  them 
through  the  intervening  villages  in  a style  worthy  of  the  occa- 
sion of  the  first  visit  of  a white  man  to  the  country. 

44  After  a short  march  on  the  16th,  we  came  to  a most  lovely 
valley  about  a mile  and  a half  wide,  and  stretching  away  east- 
ward up  to  a low  prolongation  of  Monakadzi.  A small  stream 
meanders  down  the  centre  of  this  pleasant  green  glen  : and  on 
a little  rill,  which  flows  into  it  from  the  western  side,  stands  the 
town  of  Kabompo,  or,  as  he  likes  best  to  be  called,  Sliinte. 
(Lat.  12°  37'  S.,  long.  22°  47'  E.)  When  Manenko  thought 
the  sun  was  high  enough  for  us  to  make  a lucky  entrance,  we 
found  the  town  embowered  in  banana  and  other  tropical  trees 
having  great  expansion  of  leaf ; the  trees  are  straight,  and  pre- 
sent a complete  contrast  to  those  of  the  Bechuanas,  which  are 
all  very  tortuous.  Here,  too,  we  first  saw  native  huts  with 
square  walls  and  round  roofs.  The  fences  or  walls  of  the 
courts  which  surround  the  huts  are  wonderfully  straight,  and 
made  of  upright  poles  a few  inches  apart,  with  strong  grass  or 
leafy  bushes  neatly  woven  between.  In  the  courts  were  small 
plantations  of  tobacco,  and  a little  solanaceous  plant  which  the 
Balonda  use  as  a relish  ; also  sugar-cane  and  bananas. 

44  We  were  honored  next  day  with  a grand  reception  by 
Sliinte  about  eleven  o’clock.  Sambanza  claimed  the  honor  of 
presenting  us,  Manenko  being  slightly  indisposed.  The  kotla, 
or  place  of  audience,  was  about  a hundred  yards  square,  and 
two  graceful  specimens  of  a species  of  banian  stood  near  one 
end ; under  one  of  these  sat  Sliinte,  on  a sort  of  throne  covered 
with  a leopard’s  skin.  He  had  on  a checked  jacket,  and  a kilt 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  131 


of  scarlet  baize  edged  with  green  ; many  strings  of  large  beads 
bung  from  bis  neck,  and  bis  limbs  were  covered  with  iron  and 
copper  armlets  and  bracelets ; on  bis  bead  be  wore  a belmct 
made  of  beads  woven  neatly  together,  and  crowned  witli  a 
great  bunch  of  goose-feathers.  Close  to  him  sat  three  lads 
with  large  sheaves  of  arrows  over  their  shoulders. 

“ When  we  entered  the  kotla,  the  whole  of  Manenko’s  party 
saluted  Shinto  by  clapping  their  hands,  and  Sambanza  did 
obeisance  by  rubbing  his  chest  and  arms  with  ashes.  One  of 
the  trees  being  unoccupied,  I retreated  to  it  for  the  sake  of  the 
shade,  and  my  whole  party  did  the  same.  We  were  now  about 
forty  yards  from  the  chief,  and  could  see  the  whole  ceremony. 
The  different  sections  of  the  tribe  came  forward  in  the  same 
way  that  we  did,  the  headman  of  each  making  obeisance  with 
ashes  which  he  carried  with  him  for  the  purpose  ; then  came 
the  soldiers,  all  armed  to  the  teeth,  running  and  shouting 
toward  us,  with  their  swords  drawn,  and  their  faces  screwed  up 
so  as  to  appear  as  savage  as  possible,  for  the  purpose,  I thought, 
of  trying  whether  they  could  not  make  us  take  to  our  heels. 
As  we  did  not,  they  turned  round  toward  Shinte  and  saluted 
him,  then  retired.  When  all  had  come  and  were  seated,  then 
began  the  curious  capering  usually  seen  in  pichos.  A man 
starts  up,  and  imitates  the  most  approved  attitudes  observed  in 
actual  fight,  as  throwing  one  javelin,  receiving  another  on  the 
shield,  springing  to  one  side  to  avoid  a third,  running  backward 
or  forward,  leaping,  etc.  This  over,  Sambanza,  and  the  spokes- 
man of  Nyamoana  stalked  backward  and  forward  in  front  of 
Shinte,  and  gave  forth,  in  a loud  voice,  all  they  had  been  able 
to  learn,  either  from  myself  or  people,  of  my  past  history  and 
connection  with  the  Makololo ; the  return  of  the  captives ; the 
wish  to  open  the  country  to  trade  ; the  Bible  as  a word  from 
heaven ; the  white  man’s  desire  for  the  tribes  to  live  in  peace  : 
be  ought  to  have  taught  the  Makololo  that  first,  for  the  Balonda 
never  attacked  them,  yet  they  had  assailed  the  Balonda  : per- 
haps he  is  fibbing,  perhaps  not ; they  rather  thought  be  was  ; 
but  as  the  Balonda  bad  good  hearts,  and  Shinte  had  never  done 
barm  to  any  one,  be  had" better  receive  the  white  man  well,  and 
send  him  on  his  way.  When  nine  speakers  had  concluded 
their  orations,  Shinte  stood  up,  and  so  did  all  the  people.  lie 
had  maintained  true  African  dignity  of  manner  all  the  while, 
but  my  people  remarked  that  he  scarcely  ever  took  his  eyes  off 
me  for  a moment.  About  a thousand  people  were  present,  ac- 
cording to  my  calculation,  and  three  hundred  soldiers.  The 


132  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


sun  had  now  become  liot ; and  the  scene  ended  by  the  Mam- 
bari  discharging  their  guns.” 

Livingstone  stayed  ten  days  at  Shintc’s,  and  was  on  the 
whole  kindly  entertained,  though  he  suffered  part  of  the  time 
from  another  attack  of  fever,  and  was  teased  by  the  irrepressi- 
ble curiosity  of  the  people.  On  the  26th  of  January  he  started 
westward  on  his  journey  toward  the  Portuguese  territory. 
Shinte  furnished  eight  men  to  assist  in  carrying  the  baggage, 
but  could  only  provide  guides  for  a short  distance.  After 
travelling  five  days  they  struck  the  Lecba  again,  in  lat.  12° 
O'  S.,  and  crossed  it  in  canoes  furnished  by  the  natives.  Be- 
yond the  river  they  came  upon  a plain  twenty  miles  wide,  and 
flooded  with  water.  This  entire  region  is  intersected  with 
branches  and  feeders  of  the  Leeba,  some  of  which  the  party 
were  obliged  to  ford,  the  water  often  covering  all  of  the  oxen 
except  their  lifted  heads.  Livingstone  was  obliged  to  carry 
bis  watch  in  his  arm-pit  as  the  only  spot  where  it  could  be  kept 
dry. 

Onward  is  a branch  of  the  Lokalueje,  which  was  crossed  on 
the  6tli  of  February  Like  all  branches  of  great  rivers  in  this 
country,  it  is  named  after  the  main  stream  Nuana  Kalueje,  or 
child  of  Kalueje.  Hippopotami  are  found  in  the  Lokalueje. 
It  is  therefore  always  of  considerable  depth.  In  the  rainy  sea- 
son it  is  about  forty  yards  in  breadth,  and  at  other  times  is  prob- 
ably about  half  that  width.  The  Lokalueje  winds  from  north- 
east to  south-west  into  the  Leeba.  The  whole  of  this  territory, 
the  Londa,  is  rich  in  natural  pasturage,  and  in  the  grains  which 
are  sown  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  villages  which  occupy  the 
higher  lands.  Great  numbers  of  fish  spread  themselves  over  the 
flooded  plains,  and,  as  the  waters  recede,  of  course  try  to  find 
their  way  back  to  the  rivers.  The  Balonda  make  dykes  across 
the  outlets,  and  by  placing  creels  in  the  narrow  openings 
which  are  left,  so  catch  many,  which  they  dry  in  smoke,  and 
find  a likeable  addition  to  their  more  ordinary  food.  Nets  are 
not  common  ; but  sometimes  a hook  is  used. 

The  traveller  next  reached  the  villege  of  Soana  Molopo,  a half 
brother  of  the  Kateina  to  whose  town  Shintc’s  guides  were  to 
lead  him,  a few  miles  beyond  the  Lokalueje.  Beyond  is  a 
stream  in  the  rainy  season  forty  yards  wide,  and  called  Mona- 
Kalueje,  or  brother  of  Kalueje,  since  it  flows  into  that  river. 
Crossing  the  river,  the  same  sort  of  woodland  and  meadow  as 
before  wras  reached,  swarming  with  buffaloes,  elands,  koodoos, 
and  antelopes. 

Among  these  tribes,  when  a chief  dies,  a number  of  his  peo- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  133 


pic  arc  killed  that  they  may  become  liis  servants  in  the  other 
world.  The  JBarotse  have  the  same  custom ; and  so  it  is  in 
many  parts  of  Africa.  The  chiefs  have  absolute  power  and 
are  very  tyrannical.  When  Matiamvo,  a chieftain  who  died 
just  before  Livingstone’s  arrival  in  his  territory,  took  a fancy 
to  anything,  he  would  have  it.  If  a slave-trader  visited  him, 
he  would  seize  the  whole  of  his  goods,  keep  them  for  some 
days,  and  then  send  a party  to  surprise  some  village  of  con- 
siderable size,  having  the  headman  killed,  that  he  might  sell 
the  inhabitants  to  pay  for  the  goods.  If  any  asked  if  Mati- 
amvo did  not  know  that  he  was  a man,  and  that  in  another 
state  a great  Lord  would  judge  him,  the  reply  was  sure  to  be, 
as  it  has  been,  “We  do  not  go  up  to  God,  as  white  men  go ; 
we  are  put  into  the  ground.”  Even  where  there  is  any  faint 
idea  of  a future  state,  there  is  no  conception  of  heaven  ; it  is 
supposed  that  the  soul  is  always  somewhere  near  to  the  place 
where  the  body  lies. 

Crossing  the  river  Lotembwa  on  the  13th  of  February,  the 
town  of  the  great  chief  Katema  was  reached,  about  eight  miles 
distant.  It  is  a straggling  town — more  a collection  of  vil- 
lages than  a town  (lat.  11°  35'  49"  S.,  long.  22°  27'  E.). 

“ Next  morning,”  says  Livingstone,  “ we  had  a formal  presen- 
tation, and  found  Katema  seated  on  a sort  of  throne,  with 
about  three  hundred  men  on  the  ground  around,  and  thirty 
women,  who  were  said  to  be  his  wives,  close  behind  him.  The 
main  body  of  the  people  were  seated  in  a semicircle,  at  a dis- 
tance of  fifty  yards.  Each  party  had  its  own  headman  sta- 
tioned at  a little  distance  in  front,  and,  when  beckoned  by  the 
chief,  came  near  him  as  councillors.  Intemese  gave  our  his- 
tory, and  Katema  placed  sixteen  large  baskets  of  meal  before 
us,  half  a dozen  fowl,  and  a dozen  eggs,  and  expressed  a regret 
that  we  had  slept  hungry  : he  did  not  like  any  stranger  to  suf- 
fer want  in  his  town  ; and  added,  ‘ Go  home,  and  cook  and 
eat,  and  you  will  then  be  fit  to  speak  to  me  at  an  audience  I 
will  give  you  to-morrow.’  lie  w as  busily  engaged  in  hearing 
the  statements  of  a large  body  of  fine  young  men  who  had  fled 
from  Kangenke,  chief  of  Lobale,  on  account  of  his  selling 
their  relatives  to  the  native  Portuguese  who  frequent  his  coun- 
try. Katema  is  a tall  man,  about  forty  years  of  age,  and  his 
head  wTas  ornamented  with  a helmet  of  beads  and  feathers. 
He  had  on  a snuff-brown  coat,  with  a broad  band  of  tinsel 
down  the  arms,  and  carried  in  his  hand  a large  tail  made  of 
the  caudal  extremities  of  a number  of  gnus.  This  had  charms 
attached  to  it,  and  he  continued  waving  it  in  front  of  himself 


134  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


all  the  time  we  were  there.  He  seemed  in  good  spirits,  laugh- 
ing heartily  several  times.  When  we  arose  to  take  leave,  all 
rose  with  us,  as  at  Shinte’s. 

“ Returning  next  morning,  Katema  addressed  me  thus : 6 1 
am  the  great  Moene  (lord)  Katema,  the  fellow  of  Madam vo. 
There  is  no  one  in  the  country  equal  to  Madam  vo  and  me.  I 
have  always  lived  here,  and  my  forefathers  too.  There  is  the 
house  in  which  my  father  lived.  You  found  no  human  skulls 
near  the  place  where  you  are  encamped.  I never  killed  any 
of  the  traders ; they  all  come  to  me.  I am  the  great  Moene 
Katema,  of  whom  you  have  heard.’  He  looked  as  if  he  had 
fallen  asleep  tipsy,  and  dreamed  of  his  greatness.  On  explain- 
ing my  objects  to  him,  he  promptly  pointed  out  three  men 
who  would  be  our  guides,  and  explained  that  the  north-west 
path  was  the  most  direct,  and  that  by  which  all  traders  came, 
but  that  the  water  at  present  standing  on  the  plains  would 


what  could  be  brought  back  to  him  on  the  return  journey  from 
Loanda,  he  replied,  “Everything  of  the  white  people  would  be 
acceptable,  and  he  would  receive  anything  thankfully;  but  the 
coat  he  had  then  on  was  old,  and  he  would  like  another.” 
The  subject  of  the  Bible  was  introduced ; but  his  attention 
could  not  be  obtained  or  kept  except  by  personal  compliments. 

Livingstone  had  another  attack  of  fever  while  living  at  the 


reach  up  to  the  loins ; he 
wohld  therefore  send  us 
by  a more  northerly  route, 
which  no  trader  had  yet 
traversed.  This  was  more 
suited  to  our  wishes,  for 
we  never  found  a path  safe 
that  had  been  trodden  by 
slave-traders.” 


To  this  great  chief  were 
presented  a few  articles 
which  pleased  him  much 
— “ a small  shawl,  a razor, 
three  bunches  of  beads, 
some  buttons,  and  a pow- 
der-horn.” When  asked 


While  at  Katema,  Liv- 
ingstone was  struck  with 
the  musical  powers  of  the 
people.  One  of  their  in- 
struments is  represented 
in  the  engraving. 


MARIMBA  MUSICIAN. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  135 


town  of  Katema,  but  on  the  20th  of  February  set  out  on  his 
westward  journey.  The  Lblb  is  a considerable  stream  not  far 
from  the  town  of  Katema,  with  iive  tributary  rivers,  the  Lisli- 
ish,  Liss,  or  Lice,  Kalileme,  Ishidish,  and  Mol6ng.  None  of 
these  is  large  in  itself,  but  when  united  the  body  of  water  is 
far  from  being  despicable.  Four  or  five  miles  distant  is  Lake 
Dilolo,  the  small  end  of  which  is  like  a river  a quarter  of  a 
mile  broad,  and  abounds  in  fish  and  hippopotami.  At  its 
wider  part  it  is  about  three  miles,  and  is  about  seven  or  eight 
long.  The  people  of  Katema  keep  singing-birds  in  cages,  and 
such  birds,  of  various  kinds,  abound  in  the  woods.  It  is  re- 
markable that,  notwithstanding  the  number  of  song-birds  and 
pigeons,  there  is  a general  paucity  of  animal  life  in  other 
forms.  Game  and  the  larger  kinds  of  fowl  are  scarce,  and 
many  of  the  rivers  are  almost  destitute  of  fish.  Such  is  the 
variety  of  nature  within  the  space  of  not  many  miles. 

Beyond  Lake  Dilolo  is  a large  plain  about  twenty  miles  in 
breadth.  This  plain  it  is,  of  course,  difficult  to  cross  in  the 
rainy  season,  it  being  covered  with  water.  Level  as  it  is,  the 
tavellers  found  it  to  be  the  water-shed  between  the  southern 
and  northern  rivers ; on  the  one  side  of  it  these  flow  in  one 
direction,  and,  on  the  other,  in  the  opposite.  Those  which 
flow  in  a northern  direction  fall  into  the  Kasia,  or  Loke.  The 
trees  in  this  district  are  thickly  planted,  and  very  high — many 
of  them  having  sixty  or  eighty  feet  of  clean  trunk.  These 
trees  are  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers. 

The  villages  in  this  vicinity  are  frequently  visited  by  the 
Mamb&ri,  in  the  interests  of  the  slave-trade ; and  in  that  trade 
they  exercise  the  most  ruthless  and  barbarous  cruelty  : the 
older  members  of  a family  are  killed  off,  that  they  may  not  be 
able  to  offer  present  resistance  or  give  future  trouble — trouble 
by  enchantments  or  otherwise.  The  belief  in  the  power  of 
enchantment  is  widely  prevalent.  Gunpowder  is  in  great 
demand  as  an  article  of  barter;  next  to  that  English  calico. 
Gold  is  not  valued.  Trade  can  be  carried  on  only  by  ex- 
change. 

Tlie  Kasai,  or  Loke,  the  great  river  of  this  district,  is  a beau- 
tiful stream,  perhaps  one  hundred  yards  broad,  fringed  with 
rich  wooding,  and  flanked  with  fertile  meadows  on  both  its 
banks.  “ Though  you  sail  along  it  for  months,”  say  the  peo- 
ple of  the  place,  “ you  will  not  see  the  end  of  it.”  The  ford 
of  the  Loke  is  in  11°  16'  47"  S.  lat.,  and  was  reached  on  Feb- 
ruary 27th.  Katende,  the  local  chief,  rigorously  exacts  tribute 
from  all  who  pass  through  his  country.  Beyond  his  principal 


136  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


town  there  is  a small  river,  and,  even  there,  there  is  civilization 
enough  to  have  erected  a bridge,  toll  being  demanded  of  all 
travellers.  Nor  would  the  people  of  these  parts  give  them 
anything  except  in  the  way  of  sale. 

Passing  onwaids,  the  villages  of  the  Kasabi  were  reached, 
and  beyond  these  lies  the  territory  of  the  Chiboque. 

The  population  of  the  central  parts  of  the  country,  traversed 
by  Livingstone  on  this  journey,  is  large  when  compared  with 
that  of  the  Cape  Colony  or  the  Bechuana  country.  The 
amount  of  cultivated  land  is  small,  compared  with  what  it 
might  be.  Irrigation  at  the  cost  of  but  little  labor  is  abun- 
dantly provided  for  by  many  ever-flowing  streams ; and  yet 
miles  of  country  are  absolutely  waste  ; there  is  not  even  game 
to  eat  off  the  fine  natural  pasturage.  The  people  of  this  region 
are  not  all  black — many  are  bronze  in  color.  The  dialects 
spoken  in  the  extreme  south,  whether  Hottentot  or  Kaffre, 
bear  a close  affinity  to  those  of  the  tribes  immediately  to  the 
north  of  them,  and  glide  into  each  other  with  so  many  affini- 
ties and  in  such  a manner  as  indicates  plainly  the  fact  that 
they  are  cognate  tongues.  Near  the  equator  it  is  more  diffi- 
cult to  detect  the  fact ; but  even  there  it  requires  only  a small 
amount  of  attention  and  reflection  to  find  that  all  the  dialects 
of  these  parts  belong  to  but  two  families  of  languages,  and  that 
these,  merge  into  each  other. 

When  Livingstone  reached  the  village  of  Njambi,  one  of  the , 
Chiboque  chiefs,  it  was  on  Saturday,  and,  according  to  his 
custom,  he  hoped  to  be  able  not  only  to  spend  a quiet  Sunday, 
but  to  find  an  opportunity  of  preaching  to  the  people.  But  he 
was  disappointed.  Their  provisions  being  spent,  he  ordered  a 
tired  riding-ox  to  be  slaughtered,  and  sent  the  hump  and  ribs 
to  Njambi  with  the  message  that  this  was  the  customary  token 
of  respect  to  chiefs  in  ttie  part  from  which  he  had  come. 
Next  morning  he  received  an  impudent  reply,  with  a present 
of  meal.  Scorning  the  meat  which  had  been  presented, 
Njambi  demanded  either  a man,  an  ox,  a gun,  powder,  cloth, 
or  a shell ; and,  in  the  event  of  refusal,  he  intimated  his  in- 
tention to  prevent  the  further  progress  of  the  party.  The 
servants  who  brought  the  message  intimated  that  when  they 
were  sent  to  the  Main  bar  i,  they  had  always  received  a quantity  ' 
of  cloth  for  their  master,  and  that  they  now  expected  the 
same.  Thus  has  the  curse  of  slave-dealing  infected  the  whole 
of  these  regions  with  a cruel  cupidity  in  whose  path  no  hos- 
pitality, no  humanity  can  be  allowed  to  stand. 

“ We,”  says  Livingstone,  “ heard  some  of  the  Chiboque  re- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TEE  CONTINENT.  137 


mark,  ‘They  have  only  five  guns;’  and,  about  mid-day, 
Njainbi  collected  all  his  people,  and  surrounded  our  encamp- 
ment. Their  object  was  evidently  to  plunder  us  of  every- 
thing. My  men  seized  their  javelins,  and  stood  on  the  defen- 
sive, while  the  young  Cliiboque  had  drawn  their  swords  and 
brandished  them  with  great  fury.  Some  even  pointed  their 
guns  at  me,  and  nodded  to  each  other,  as  much  as  to  sav, 
‘ This  is  the  way  we  shall  do  with  him.’  I sat  on  my  camp- 
stool,  with  my  double-barrelled  gun  across  my  knees,  and  in- 
vited the  chief  to  be  seated  also.  When  he  and  his  counsellors 
had  sat  down  on  the  ground  in  front  of  me,  I asked  what  crime 
we  had  committed,  that  he  had  come  armed  in  that  way.  He 
replied  that  one  of  my  men,  Pitsane,  while  sitting  at  the  fire 
that  morning,  had,  in  spitting,  allowed  a small  quantity  of 
saliva  to  fall  on  the  leg  of  oue  of  his  men,  and  this  ‘ guilt’  he 
wanted  to  be  settled  by  the  fine  of  a man,  ox,  or  gun.  Pitsane 
admitted  the  fact  of  a little  saliva  having  fallen  on  the 
Cliiboque,  and  in  proof  of  its  being  a pure  accident  mentioned 
that  lie  had  given  the  man  apiece  of  meat,  by  way  of  making 
friends,  and  wiped  it  off  with  his  hand  as  soon  as  it  fell.  In 
reference  to  a man  being  given,  I declared  that  we  were  all 
ready  to  die  rather  than  give  up  one  of  our  number  to  be  a 
slave ; that  my  men  might  as  well  give  me  as  I give  one  of 
them,  for  we  were  all  free  men.  ‘ Then  you  can  give  the  gun 
with  which  the  ox  was  shot.’  As  we  heard  some  of  his  people 
even  now  remarking  that  we  had  only ‘five  guns,’  we  declined, 
on  the  ground  that,  as  they  were  intent  on  plundering  us,  giv- 
ing a gun  would  be  helping  them  to  do  so. 

“ This  they  denied,  saying  they  wanted  the  customary  trib- 
ute only.  I asked  what  Yight  they  had  to  demand  payment 
for  leave  to  tread  on  the  ground  of  God,  our  common  Father  ? 
If  we  trod  on  their  gardens,  we  would  pay,  but  not  for  march- 
ing on  land  which  was  still  God’s,  and  not  theirs.  They  did 
not  attempt  to  controvert  this,  because  it  is  in  accordance  with 
their  own  ideas. 

“My  men  now  entreated  me  to  give  something;  and  after 
asking  the  chief  if  lie  really  thought  the  affair  of" the  spitting 
a matter  of  guilt,  and  receiving  an  answer  in  the  affirmative,  I 
gave  him  one  of  my  shirts.  The  young  Chiboque  were  dis- 
satisfied, and  began  shouting  and  brandishing  their  swords  for 
a greater  fine. 

“ As  Pitsane  felt  that  he  had  been  the  cause  of  this  disagree- 
able affair,  he  asked  me  to  add  something  else.  I gave  a 
bunch  of  beads ; but  the  counsellors  objected  this  time,  so  I 


138  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


added  a forge  handkerchief.  The  more  I yielded,  the  more 
unreasonable  their  demands  became,  and  at  every  fresh  de- 
mand a shout  was  raised  by  the  armed  party,  and  a rush  made 
around  us  with  brandish  ment  of  arms.  One  young  man  made 
a charge  at  my  head  from  behind,  but  I quickly  brought 
round  the  muzzle  of  my  gun  to  his  mouth,  and  he  retreated. 
I pointed  him  out  to  the  chief,  and  he  ordered  him  to  retire  a 
little.  I felt  anxious  to  avoid  the  effusion  of  blood  ; and 
though  sure  of  being  able  with  my  Makololo,  who  had  been 
drilled  by  Sebituane,  to  drive  off  twice  the  number  of  our 
assailants,  though  now  a large  body,  and  well  armed  with 
spears,  swords,  arrows,  and  guns,  I strove  to  avoid  actual 
collision.  My  men  were  quite  unprepared  for  this  exhibition, 
but  behaved  with  admirable  coolness.  The  chief  and  coun- 
sellors, by  accepting  my  invitation  to  be  seated,  had  placed 
themselves  in  a trap,  for  my  men  very  quietly  surrounded 
them,  and  .made  them  feel  that  there  was  no  chance  of  escap- 
ing their  spears.  I then  said  that,  as  one  thing  after  another 
had  failed  to  satisfy  them,  it  was  evident  that  they  wanted  to 
fight,  while  we  only  wanted  to  pass  quietly  through  the  coun- 
try ; that  they  must  begin  first,  and  bear  the  guilt  before  God  ; 
we  would  not  fight  till  they  had  struck  the  first  blow.  I then 
sat  silent  for  some  time.  It  was  rather  trying  for  me,  because 
I knew  that  the  Chiboquc  would  aim  at  the  white  man  first ; 
but  I was  careful  not  to  appear  flurried,  and,  having  four 
barrels  read}7  for  instant  action,  looked  quietly  at  the  savage 
scene  around.  The  Chiboquc  countenance,  by  no  means 
handsome,  is  not  improved  by  the  practice  of  filing  the  teeth 
to  a point.  The  chief  and  counsellors,  seeing  that  they  were 
in  more  danger  than  I,  did  not  choose  to  follow  our  decision 
that  they  should  begin  by  striking  the  first  blow,  and  then  see 
what  we  could  do,  and  were  perhaps  influenced  by  seeing  the 
air  of  cool  preparation  which  some  of  my  men  displayed,  at 
the  prospect  of  a work  of  blood.” 

A compromise  was,  at  last,  effected — an  ox  was  given  and 
accepted,  and  the  party  passed  on.  Slavery  was  at  the  bottom 
of  the  mischief.  These  people  had  been  accustomed  to  get  a 
slave  or  two  from  every  dealer  wjio  passed  them.  The  poor 
slaves  of  a gang  had  cost  but  little,  and  such  a gift  could  easily 
be  spared,  and  the  people  were  debauched  through  whose 
borders  the  traffic  had  to  pass. 

On  the  west  of  the  Chiboqne  of  Is  jambi  the  slave-trade  is 
vigorously  prosecuted.  Learning  this,  and  being  fully  aware 
of  the  constant  difficulties  in  which  it  would  involve  him,  Liv- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  139 


ingstorie  resolved  to  alter  his  course  and  strike  away  to  the 
N.  N.  E.,  in  the  hope  that  at  some  point  farther  north  he 
might  find  an  exit  to  the  Portuguese  settlement  of  Cassange. 
lie  first  proceeded  due  north,  and  next  day  reached  the 
Chiluinc,  a small  stream  which  flows  into  the  Longe,  and  that 
into  the  Chihombo,  a feeder  of  the  Kasai.  They  reached  the 
Chihombo  on  the  10th  of  March ; it  is  a river  of  considerable 
size,  flowing  E.  N.  E.  Crossing  this,  they  traversed  a succes- 
sion of  open  lawns  and  deep  forests.  A remarkable  peculiarity 
of  the  forests  of  this  country  is  the  absence  of  thorns.  In  the 
regions  farther  south  there  are  thorns  of  every  size  and  shape  ; 
here  all  the  trees  are  thornless  with  but  two  exceptions — one  a 
species  of  mix  vomica,  and  another,  the  grapple-plant,  which 
has  so  many  hooked  thorns  as  to  cling  most  tenaciously  to  any 
animal  to  which  it  may  become  attached. 

Fonvard  some  miles  is  the  River  Loajima,  another  tributary 
of  the  Kasai,  which  was  reached  on  the  23d  of  March.  The 
people  here  arc  anything  but  friendly  to  strangers  or  travellers, 
and  Livingstone  barely  escaped  collision  with  a party  of  them 
headed  by  an  old  man  named  Ionza  Panza.  Their  usual  de- 
mand of  a party  is  a man,  an  ox,  a tusk,  or  a gun.  They  be- 
long to  the  Chiboqne,  and  have  all  their  customs.  The  proba- 
ble reason  for  this  general  demand  of  tribute  is  to  be  found  in 
the  fact  that  the  slave-traders  are  very  much  at  the  mercy  of  the 
chiefs  through  whose  country  they  must  pass.  Slaves  may  run 
away  at  any  moment,  and  so  the  traders  might  lose  their  whole 
property,  without  the  aid  of  the  chiefs.  To  such  lengths  did  the 
Bangala,  a tribe  in  this  quarter,  proceed  a few  years  ago,  that 
they  compelled  the  Portuguese  traders  to  pay  for  water,  wood, 
and  even  grass — every  pretext  was  invented  for  imposing  fines. 

The  village  of  old  Ionza  Panza  (lat.  10°  25'  S.,  long.  20° 
15'  E.)  is  small  and  embowered  in  lofty  evergreen  trees.  lie 
demanded  tribute  like  the  others.  Onwards  is  the  river 
Chik&pa  (lat.  10°  22'  S.),  forty  or  fifty  yards  wide.  There  is  a 
ferry  over  which  travellers  are  carried  in  a canoe  made  out  of 
a single  piece  of  bark  sewed  together  at  the  ends.  Pay  is  ex- 
acted at  the  ferry  to  a most  exorbitant  amount,  sometimes  be- 
fore starting,  then  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  a third 
time  on  landing  Of  course  travellers  are  often  wholly  at  the 
inercy  of  the  natives. 

The  parts  beyond  had  been  frequently  visited  by  traders, 
and  the  travellers  were  less  a spectacle  to  wonder  at,  and  cer- 
tain advantages  were  experienced  which  were  not  to  be  found 
in  more  secluded  territory. 


140  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TTIE  CONTINENT. 

The  Quilo,  or  ICweelo,  a stream  ten  yards  wide,  was  reached 
on  the  20th  of  March.  Crossing  this  they  were  quite  in  the 
slave-market.  The  people  live  on  fertile  plains,  in  which  a 
small  amount  of  labor  suffices  for  cultivation.  Animal  food  is 
scarce,  vegetable  diet  abundant.  There  were  many  villages. 
In  proceeding  W.N.W.,  many  parties  of  native  traders  were  met 
with,  each  carrying  some  pieces  of  cloth  and  salt — salt  is  a valua- 
ble commodity— with  a few  beads,  to  barter  for  beeswax.  They 
were  all  armedwith  Portuguese  guns,  having  cartridges  and  iron 
balls.  When  they  meet  a company  of  travellers,  they  usually 
stand  a few  minutes  and  then  present  a little  salt,  and  the  other 
party  gives  a bit  of  ox-hide  or  some  other  trifle,  and  then  they  part 
with  mutual  good  wishes.  There  is  much  variety  of  character 
indicated  by  the  differences  of  condition  observable  in  the  vil- 
lages. Some  are  pictures  of  neatness ; others  are  covered  with- 
weeds  so  high  that  they  almost  conceal  the  huts.  Where  there 
is  care  and  industry,  cotton,  tobacco,  and  other  plants  are 
grown  round  the  huts.  Fowls  are  kept  in  cages. 

Just  beyond  the  Quilo  they  found  a well-beaten  footpath 
which  they  were  told  led  straight  to  Cassange  (pronounced 
Kassange),  the  farthest  inland  station  of  the  Portuguese  in 
Western  Africa. 

“ As  we  were  now  alone,”  says  Livingstone,  “ and  sure  of  being 
on  the  way  to  the  abodes  of  civilization,  we  went  on  briskly. 
On  the  30th  we  came  to  a sudden  descent  from  the  high  land, 
indented  by  deep,  narrow  valloyS,  over  which  we  had  lately 
been  travelling.  It  is  generally  so  steep  that  it  can  only  be 
descended  at  particular  points,  and  even  there  I 'was  obliged  to 
dismount,  though  so  weak  that  I had  to  be  led  by  my  compan- 
ions to  prevent  my  toppling  over  in  walking  down.  It  was 
annoying  to  feel  myself  so  helpless,  for  I never  liked  to  see  a 
man,  either  sick  Or  well*  giving  in  effeminately.  Below  us  lay 
the  valley  of  the  Quango.  If  you  sit-  on  the  spot  where  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots  viewed  the  battle  of  Langside,  and  look  down  on 
the  vale  of  Clyde,  you  In  ay  see  in  miniature  the  glorious  sight 
which  a much  greater  and  richer  valley  presented  to  our  view. 
It  is  about  a hundred  miles  broad,  clothed  with  dark  forest, 
except  where  the  light  greeli  grass  covers  meadow-lands  on  the 
Quango,  which  here  and  there  glances  out  in  the  sun  as  it 
wends  its  way  to  the  north.  The  opposite  side  of  this  great 
valley  appears  like  a range  of  lofty  mountains,  and  the  descent 
into  it  about  a mile,  which,  measured  perpendicularly,  may  be 
from  a thousand  to  twelve  hundred  feet.  Emerging  from  the 
gloomy  forests  of  Londa,  this  magniiicent  prospect  made  us 


LI VING  STONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  141 


all  feci  as  if  a weight  had  been  lifted  off  onr  eyelids.  A cloud 
was  passing  across  the  middle  of  the  valley,  from  which  rolling 
thunder  pealed,  while  above  all  was  glorious  sunlight ; and 
when  we  went  down  to  the  part  where  we  saw  it  passing,  we 
found  that  a very  heavy  thunder-shower  had  fallen  under  the 
path  of  the  cloud  ; and  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  which  from 
above  seemed  quite  smooth,  we  discovered  to  be  intersected  and 
furrowed  by  great  numbers  of  deep-cut  streams/’ 

Descending  into  the  valley,  they  entered  the  territory  of  the 
Bashinje,  who  treated  them  in  a very  hostile  manner,  declined 
to  give  them  food,  and  threatened  to  prevent  by  force  the 
further  progress  of  the  party ; but  a Portuguese  half-caste, 
named  Cypriano,  came  to  their  assistance  and  enabled  them  to 
cross  the  Quango.  On  the  opposite  bank  the  tribes  were  sub- 
ject to  the  Portuguese,  and  all  difficulties  and  dangers  were 
over. 

Three  days  of  pretty  hard  travelling  after  leaving  the 
Quango  brought  the  party  to  Cassange  (in  lat.  9°  37'  30"  S. 
and  long.  17°  49'  E.).  They  still  had  about  300  miles  to 
traverse  before  they  could  reach  the  coast,  but,  except  that 
Livingstone  was  almost  continually  sick  with  fever,  the  journey 
was  accomplished  without  difficulty,  under  the  guidance  of  a 
black  militia  corporal ; and  on  the  31st  of  May  (1854)  they  en- 
tered the  city  of  Loanda.  Mr.  Gabriel,  the  only  genuine 
Englishman  among  a population  of  12,000  souls,  received  Living- 
stone with  the  utmost  cordiality ; and  thus,  after  an  incessant 
tramp  of  nearly  six  months,  he  found  himself  again  enjoying 
the  “ luxurious  pleasure  of  a good  English  bed.” 

For  four  months  Livingstone  was  compelled  to  remain  in 
Loanda,  prostrated  by  successive  attacks  of  fever  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  time,  and  engaged  in  the  intervals  in  prep- 
arations for  the  return  journey.  During  the  whole  of  his 
stay  he  was  treated  with  the  utmost  kindness  by  the  officers  of 
the  English  vessels  in  port,  as  well  as  by  the  local  authorities, 
all  of  whom  sent  in  various  contributions  to  his  supplies. 

The  Makololo  in  the  meantime  were  enjoying  to  the  full  their 
first  glimpse  of  the  wonders  of  civilization.  “ Every  one,” 
says  Livingstone,  “ remarked  their  serious  deportment.  They 
viewed  the  large  stone  houses  and  churches  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  great  ocean  with  awe.  A house  with  two  stories  was, 
until  now,  beyond  their  comprehension.  In  explanation  of 
this  strange  thing,  I had  always  been  obliged  to  use  the  word 
for  hut;  and  as  huts  arc  constructed  by  the  poles  being  let 
into  the  earth,  they  never  could  comprehend  how  the  poles  of 


142  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT, 


one  hut  could  be  founded  upon  the  roof  of  another,  or  how 
men  could  live  in  the  upper  story,  with  the  conical  roof  of  the 
lower  one  in  the  middle.  Some  Makololo,  who  had  visited 
my  little  house  at  Kolobeng,  in  trying  to  describe  it  to  their 
countrymen  at  Linyanti,  said,  ‘ It  is  not  a hut : it  is  a mountain 
with  several  caves  in  it.’ 

44  Commander  Bedingfield  and  Captain  Skene  invited  them 
to  visit  their  vessels,  the  ‘ Pluto ’ and  ‘Philomel.*  Knowing 
their  fears,  I told  them  that  no  one  need  go  if  lie  entertained 
the  least  suspicion  of  foul  play.  Nearly  the  whole  party  went ; 
and  when  on  deck,  I pointed  to  the  sailors,  and  said,  ‘ Now 
these  are  all  my  countrymen,  sent  by  our  Queen  for  the  pur- 
pose of  putting  down  the  trade  of  those  that  buy  and  sell  black 
men.’  They  replied,  4 Truly  ! they  are  just  like  you  ! ’ and  all 
their  fears  seemed  to  vanish  at  once,  for  they  went  forward 
among  the  men,  and  the  jolly  tars,  acting  much  as  the  Makololo 
would  have  done  in  similar  circumstances,  handed  them  a share 
of  the  bread  and  beef  which  they  had  for  dinner.  The  com- 
mander allowed  them  to  fire  off  a cannon ; and  having  the 
most  exalted  ideas  of  its  power,  they  were  greatly  pleased  when 
I told  them, 4 That  is  what  they  put  down  the  slave-trade  with.’ 
The  size  of  the  brig-of-war  amazed  them.  4 It  is  not  a canoe  at 
all ; it  is  a town.’  The  sailors’  deck  they  named  4 the  kotla;  ’ 
and  then,  as  a climax  to  their  description  of  this  great  ark, 
added,  4 And  what  sort  of  a town  is  it  that  you  must  climb  up 
into  with  a rope  ? ” 

The  objects  which  Livingstone  had  in  view  in  opening  up 
the  country,  as  stated  in  a few  notes  of  his  journey  published 
in  the  newspapers  of  Angola,  so  commended  themselves  to 
the  general  government  and  merchants  of  Loanda,  that  a 
handsome  present  for  Sekeletn  was  granted  by  the  Board  of 
Public  Works.  It  consisted  of  a colonel’s  complete  uniform 
and  a horse  for  the  chief,  and  suits  of  clothing  for  all  the  men 
who  had  accompanied  the  traveller  to  Loanda.  The  mer- 
chants also  made  a present,  by  public  subscription,  of  handsome 
specimens  of  all  their  articles  of  trade,  and  two  donkeys  for  the 
purpose  of  introducing  the  breed  into  his  country,  as  tsetse 
cannot  kill  this  beast  of  burden.  These  presents  were  accom- 
panied by  letters  from  the  bishop  and  merchants. 

Having  provided  himself  with  a good  stock  of  cotton  cloth, 
fresh  supplies  of  ammunition  and  beads,  a good  new  tent  made 
by  his  friends  on  board  the  44  Philomel,”  and  given  each  of  his 
men  a musket,  Livingstone  left  Loanda  on  the  20th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1854:,  and  passed  round  by  sea  to  the  mouth  of  the  river 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  143 


Bengo.  On  the  journey  to  Cassange,  the  party  made  a chi- 
tour  to  the  south  in  order  to  visit  the  famous  rocks  of  Pungo 
Adongo,  a group  of  curious  column-shaped  rocks,  each  of  which 
is  upward  of  300  feet  high.  Here  they  remained  some  weeks, 
and  did  not  reach  Cassange  until  January  15th,  1855.  Leaving 
this  town  oil  February  20th,  they  reached  the  Quango  on  the 
28th,  and  crossed  it  without  molestation  at  the  hands  of  the 
Bash  in  jo. 

After  crossing  the  Quango,  Livingstone  determined  to  leave 
his  old  route  and  accompany  the  Portuguese  traders  as  far  as 
the  town  of  Cabongo,  in  the  Londa  territory.  This  route  would 
take  him  farther  to  the  eastward ; but  it  would  not  increase 
the  distance  to  be  travelled,  and  it  would  enable  him  to 
avoid  the  country  of  the  hostile  Chiboque  and  the  great  swampy 
regions  crossed  with  such  difficulty  on  the  outward  journey. 
The  progress  of  the  party  was  excessively  slow,  notwithstanding 
Livingstone’s  repeated  efforts  to  push  on.  Two-thirds  of  the 
time  was  spent  in  stoppages,  there  being  only  ten  travelling 
days  in  each  month.  The  stoppages  were  caused  by  sickness, 
and  the  necessity  of  remaining  in  different  parts  to  purchase 
food  ; and  also  because  when  one  carrier  was  sick,  the  rest  re- 
fused to  carry  his  load. 

“ On  reaching  the  river  Chikapa,  the  25th  of  March.”  says 
Livingstone,  “ we  found  it  fifty  or  sixty  yards  wide,  and  flowing 
E.N.E.  into  the  Kasai.  The  adjacent  country  is  of  the  same 
level  nature  as  that  part  of  Londa  formerly  described  ; but, 
having  come  farther  to  the  eastward  than  our  previous  course, 
we  found  that  all  the  rivers  had  worn  for  themselves  much 
deeper  valleys  than  at  the  points  we  had  formerly  crossed  them. 

“ Surrounded  on  all  sides  by  large  gloomy  forests,  the  people 
of  these  parts  have  a much  more  indistinct  idea  of  the  geogra- 
phy of  their  country  than  those  who  live  in  hilly  regions.  It 
was  only  after  long  and  patient  inquiry  that  I became  fully 
persuaded  that  the  Quilo  runs  into  the  Chikapa.  As  we  now 
crossed  them  both  considerably  farther  down,  and  were  greatly 
to  the  eastward  of  our  first  route,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
these  rivers  take  the  same  course  as  the  others,  into  the  Kasai, 
and  that  I had  been  led  into  a mistake  in  saying  that  any  of 
them  flowed  to  the  westward.  The  people  seemed  more  slender 
in  form,  and  their  color  a lighter  olive,  than  any  we  had  hith- 
erto met.  The  mode  of  dressing  the  great  masses  of  woolly 
hair  which  lay  upon  their  shoulders,  together  with  their  general 
features,  again  reminded  me  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Several 
were  seen  with  the  upward  inclination  of  the  outer  angles  of 


144  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TEE  CONTINENT. 

the  eye,  but  this  was  not  general.  A few  of  the  ladies  adopt  a 
curious  custom  of  attaching  the  hair  to  a hoop  which  encircles 
the  head,  giving  it  somewhat  the  appearance  of  the  glory  round 
the  head  of  the  Virgin.  Others  wear  an  ornament  of  woven 
hair  and  hide  adorned  with  beads.  The  hair  of  the  tails  of 
buffaloes,  which  are  to  be  found  farther  east,  is  sometimes 
added;  while  others  weave  their  own  hair  on  pieces  of  liido 
into  the  form  of  buffalo  horns,  or  make  a single  horn  in  front. 
Many  tattoo  their  bodies  by  inserting  some  black  substance  be- 
neath the  skin,  which  leaves  an  elevated  cicatrix  about  half  an 
inch  long : these  are  made  in  forms  of  stars,  and  other  figures 
of  no  particular  beauty. 

“We  made  a little  detour  to  the  southward  in  order  to  get 
provisions  in  a cheaper  market.  This  led  us  along  the  rivulet 
called  Tamba,  where  we  fonnd  the  people,  who  had  not  been 
visited  so  frequently  by  the  slave-traders  as  the  rest,  rather 
timid  and  very  civil.  It  was  agreeable  to  get  again  among  the 
uncontaminated,  and  see  the  natives  look  at  us  without  that  air 
of  superciliousness  which  is  so  unpleasant  and  common  in  the 
beaten  track.  The  same  olive  color  prevailed.  They  file  their 
teeth  to  a point,  which  makes  the  smile  of  the  women  fright- 
ful, as  it  reminds  one  of  the  grin  of  an  alligator.  The  inhabi- 
tants throughout  this  country  exhibit  as  great  a variety  of  taste 
as  appears  on  the  surface  of  society  among  ourselves.  Many  of 
the  men  are  dandies  ; their  shoulders  are  always  wet  with  the 
oil  dropping  from  their  lubricated  hair,  and  everything  about 
them  is  ornamented  in  one  way  or  other.  Some  thrum  a musi- 
cal instrument  the  livelong  day,  and,  when  they  wake  at  night, 
proceed  at  once  to  their  musical  performance*  Many  of  these 
musicians  are  too  poor  to  have  iron  keys  to  their  instruments, 
but  make  them  of  bamboo,  and  persevere,  though  no  one  hears 
the  music  but  themselves.  Others  try  to  appear  warlike  by 
nevef  going  out  of  their  huts  except  with  a load  of  bows  and 
arrows,  or  a gun  ornamented  with  a strip  of  hide  for  every  ani- 
mal they  have  shot ; and  others  never  go  anywhere  without  a 
canary  in  a cage.  Ladies  may  be  seen  carefully  tending  little 
lap-dogs,  which  are  intended  to  be  eaten.  Their  villages  are 
generally  in  forests,  and  composed  of  groups  of  irregularly 
planted  brown  huts,  with  banana  and  cotton  trees,  and  tobacco 
growing  around.  There  is  also  at  every  hut  a high  stage  erected 
for  drying  manioc  roots  and  meal,  and  elevated  cages  to  hold 
domestic  fowls.  Round  baskets  are  laid  on  the  thatch  of  the 
huts  for  the  hens  to  lay  in,  and  on  the  arrival  of  strangers,  men, 
women,  and  children  ply  their  calling  as  hucksters  with  a great 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  145 


deal  of  noisy,  haggling  ; all  their  transactions  are  conducted 
with  civil  banter  and  good  temper.” 

On  the  8th  of  June,  they  forded  the  river  Lotembwa  to  the 
N.  W.  of  Dilolo  and  regained  their  old  path  at  the  town  of 
Katcma,  who  received  them  kindly.  The  town  of  old  Sliinte  wras 
reached  on  the  24th  of  June,  Libonta  on  the  27th  of  July,  and 
Nalielc  on  the  1st  of  August.  Just  below  Nalielo,  while  de- 
scending the  river  in  a canoe,  a hippopotamus  struck  it  with  her 
forehead,  lifting  one  half  of  it  quite  out  of  the  water,  so  as 
nearly  to  overturn  it.  The  force  of  the  butt  tilted  one  of  the 
natives  out  into  the  river;  but  Livingstone  and  the  rest  sprang 
to  the  shore  which  was  only  about  ten  yards  away.  “Glancing 
back,”  says  Livingstone,  “ I saw  her  come  to  the  surface  a short 
way  off,  and  look  at  the  canoe,  as  if  to  see  if  she  had  done  much 
mischief.  It  was  a female,  whose  young  one  had  been  speared 
the  day  before.  No  damage  was  done  except  wetting  person 
and  goods.”  Seshcke  was  reached  about  the  middle  of  Septem- 
ber, and  here  Livingstone  found  some  goods  which  had  been  for- 
warded to  him  by  Mr.  Moffat  the  year  before. 

“ Having  wTaitcd  a few  days  at  Sesheke  till  the  horses  which 
we  had  left  at  Linyanti  should  arrive,  we  proceeded  to  that 
town,  and  found  the  wagon,  and  everything  we  had  left  in  No- 
vember, 1853,  perfectly  safe.  A grand  meeting  of  all  the  peo- 
ple w^as  called  to  receive  our  report,  and  the  articles  which  had 
been  sent  by  the  governor  and  merchants  of  Loanda.  I ex- 
plained that  none  of  these  were  my  property,  but  that  they  were 
sent  to  show  the  friendly  feelings  of  the  white  men,  and  their 
eagerness  to  enter  into  commercial  relations  with  the  Makololo. 
I then  requested  my  companions  to  give  a true  account  of  what 
they  had  seen.  The  wonderful  things  lost  nothing  in  the  tell- 
ing, the  climax  always  being  that  they  had  finished  the  whole 
world,  and  had  turned  only  when  there  was  no  more  land.  One 
glib  old  gentleman  asked  : ‘ Then  you  reached  Ma  Robert  (Mrs. 
L.)  % ’ They  were  obliged  to  confess  that  she  lived  a little  be- 
yond the  'world.  The  presents  were  received  with  expressions 
of  great  satisfaction  and  delight ; and  on  Sunday,  when  Sekel- 
etu  made  his  appearance  at  church  in  his  uniform,  it  attracted 
more  attention  than  the  sermon  ; and  the  kind  expressions  they 
made  use  of  respecting  myself  were  so  very  flattering  that  I felt 
inclined  to  shut  my  eyes.  Their  private  opinion  must  have  tal- 
lied with  their  public  report,  for  I very  soon  received  offers 
from  volunteers  to  accompany  me  to  the  east  coast.” 

This  journey  to  the  east  coast  was  undertaken  by  Livingstone 
for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  whether  the  Zambesi  river 
10 


146  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 

might  not  be  navigable  far  enough  into  the  interior  to  serve  as 
a highway  of  commerce ; his  journey  to  Loanda  having  con- 
vinced him  that  it  was  impracticable  to  open  a wagon-road  to 
the  west  coast.  Ilis  first  intention  was  to  follow  the  river  it- 
self, but  to  this  the  Makololo  were  opposed  on  account  of  the 
impassable  nature  of  the  country ; and  as  he  was  dependent 
upon  them  for  outfit  and  followers,  he  was  obliged  to  adopt 
their  plan — which  was  to  strike  eastward  on  the  northern  side  of 
the  Zambesi  to  the  Kafue,  and  then  descend  the  former  river  to 
the  first  Portuguese  station  at  Tete. 

He  left  Liny  anti  on  the  3d  of  November,  accompanied  by 
Sekeletu  with  about  two  hundred  followers,  who  escorted  him  as 
far  as  the  island  of  Kalai,  two  days’  journey  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohobe. 

u As  this  was  the  point,”  says  Livingstone,  “ from  which  we 
intended  to  strike  off  to  the  north-east,  I resolved  on  the  follow- 
ing day  to  visit  the  Falls  of  Victoria,  called  by  the  natives 
Mosioatunya,  or,  more  anciently,  Shongwe.  Of  these  we  had 
often  heard  since  we  came  into  the  country  ; indeed,  one  of  the 
questions  asked  by  Sebituane  was, 4 Have  you  smoke  that  sounds 
in  your  country  ? 5 They  did  not  go  near  enough  to  examine 
them,  but,  viewing  them  with  awe  at  a distance,  said,  in  refer- 
ence to  the  vapor  and  noise,  6 Mosi  oa  tunya  ’ (smoke  does  sound 
there).  It  was  previously  called  Shongwe,  the  meaning  of 
which  I could  not  ascertain.  The  word  for  a ‘pot’  resembles 
this,  and  it  may  mean  a seething  caldron,  but  I am  not  certain 
of  it.  Being  persuaded  that  Mr.  Oswell  and  myself  were  the 
very  first  Europeans  who  ever  visited  the  Zambesi  in  the  centre 
of  the  country,  and  that  this  is  the  connecting  link  between  the 
known  and  unknown  portions  of  that  river,  I decided  to  use  the 
same  liberty  as  the  Makololo  did,  and  gave  the  only  English 
name  I have  affixed  to  any  part  of  the  country. 

“ Sekeletu  intended  to  accompany  me,  but  one  canoe  only  hav- 
ing come  instead  of  the  two  he  had  ordered,  he  resigned  it  to  me. 
After  twenty  minutes’  sail  from  Kalai  we  came  in  sight,  for 
the  first  time,  of  the  columns  of  vapor  appropriately  called 
‘ smoke,’  rising  at  a distance  of  five  or  six  miles,  exactly  as 
when  large  tracts  of  grass  are  burned  in  Africa.  Five  columns 
now’  arose,  and,  bending  in  the  direction  of  the  wind,  they 
seemed  placed  against  a low  ridge  covered  with  trees ; the  tops 
of  the  columns  at  this  distance  appeared  to  mingle  with  the 
clouds.  They  were  white  below,  and  higher  up  became  dark, 
so  as  to  simulate  smoke  very  closely.  The  whole  scene  was 
extremely  beautiful ; the  banks  and  islands  dotted  over  the 


THE  VICTORIA  PALLS  OP  THE  ZAMBESI  RIVER. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  147 


river  arc  adorned  with  sylvan  vegetation  of  great  variety 
of  color  and  form.  At  the  period  of  our  visit  several  trees  were 
spangled  over  with  blossoms.  Some  trees  resemble  the  great 
spreading  oak,  others  assume  the  character  of  our  own  elms  and 
chestnuts;  but  no  one  can  imagine  the  beauty  of  the  view  from 
anything  witnessed  in  England.  It  had  never  been  seen  before 
by  European  eyes  ; but  scenes  so  lovely  must  have  been  gazed 
upon  by  angels  in  their  flight.  The  only  want  felt  is  that  of 
mountains  in  the  background.  The  falls  are  bounded  on 
three  sides  by  ridges  300  or  400  feet  in  height,  which  are  cov- 
ered with  forest,  with  the  red  soil  appearing  among  the  trees. 
When  about  half  a mile  from  the  falls,  I left  the  canoe  by 
which  we  had  come  dowm  thus  far,  and  embarked  in  a lighter 
one,  with  men  well  acquainted  with  the  rapids,  who,  by  passing 
down  the  centre  of  the  stream  in  the  eddies  and  still  places 
caused  by  many  jutting  rocks,  brought  me  to  an  island  situated 
in  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  on  the  edge  of  the  lip  over 
which  the  water  rolls.  In  coming  hither  there  vras  danger  of 
being  swept  down  by  the  streams  which  rushed  along  on  each 
side  of  the  island ; but  the  river  was  now  low,  and  we  sailed 
where  it  is  totally  impossible  to  go  when  the  water  is  high. 
But,  though  we  had  reached  the  island,  and  were  within  a few 
yards  of  the  spot,  a view  from  which  would  solve  the  whole 
problem,  I believe  that  no  one  could  perceive  where  the  vast 
body  of  water  went;  it  seemed  to  lose  itself  in  the  earth,  the 
opposite  lip  of  the  fissure  into  which  it  disappeared  being  only 
80  feet  distant.  At  least  I did  not  comprehend  it  until,  creep- 
ing with  awe  to  the  verge,  I peered  down  into  a large  rent 
which  had  been  made  from  bank  to  bank  of  the  broad  Zambesi, 
and  saw  that  a stream  of  a thousand  yards  broad  leaped  down 
a hundred  feet,  and  then  became  suddenly  compressed  into  a 
space  of  fifteen  or  twenty  yards.  The  entire  falls  arc  simply  a 
crack  made  in  a hard  basaltic  rock  from  the  right  to  the  left 
bank  of  the  Zambesi,  and  then  prolonged  from  the  left  bank 
away  through  thirty  or  forty  miles  of  hills.  If  one  imagines 
the  Thames  filled  with  low,  tree-covered  hills  immediately  be- 
yond the  tunnel,  extending  as  far  as  Gravesend,  the  bed  of 
black  basaltic  rock  instead  of  London  mud,  and  a fissure  made 
therein  from  one  end  of  the  tunnel  to  the  other  down  through 
the  keystones  of  the  arch,  and  prolonged  from  the  left  end  of 
the  tunnel  through  thirty  miles  of  hills,  the  pathway  being  100 
feet  down  from  the  bed  of  the  river  instead  of  what  it  is, 
with  the  lips  of  the  fissure  from  80  to  100  feet  apart,  then 
fancy  the  Thames  leaping  bodily  into  the  gulf,  and  forced 


148  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


there  to  change  its  direction,  and  flow  from  the  right  to  the 
left  bank,  and  then  rush  boiling  and  roaring  through  the  hills, 
he  may  have  some  idea  of  what  takes  place  at  this,  the  most 
wonderful  sight  I had  witnessed  in  Africa.  In  looking  down 
into  the  fissure  on  the  right  of  the  island,  one  sees  nothing  but 
a dense  white  cloud,  which,  at  the  time  we  visited  the  spot,  had 
two  bright  rainbows  on  it.  (The  sun  was  on  the  meridian,  and 
the  declination  about  equal  to  the  latitude  of  the  place.) 
From  this  cloud  rushed  up  a great  jet  of  vapor  exactly  like 
steam,  and  it  mounted  200  or  300  feet  high  ; there  condensing, 
it  changed  its  hue  to  that  of  dark  smoke,  and  came  back  in  a 
constant  shower,  which  soon  wetted  us  to  the  skin.  This 
shower  falls  chiefly  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  fissure,  and  a 
few  yards  back  from  the.  lip  there  stands  a straight  hedge  of 
evergreen  trees,  whose  leaves  are  always  wet.  From  their  roots 
a number  of  little  rills  run  back  into  the  gulf,  but,  as  they  flow 
down  the  steep  wall  there,  the  column  of  vapor,  in  its  ascent, 
licks  them  up  clean  off  the  rock,  and  away  they  mount  again. 
They  are  constantly  running  down,  but  never  reach  the  bottom. 

“ On  the  left  of  the  island  we  see  the  water  at  the  bottom,  a 
white  rolling  mass  moving  away  to  the  prolongation  of  the  fis- 
sure, which  branches  off  near  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  A 
piece  of  the  rock  has  fallen  off  a spot  on  the  left  of  the  island, 
and  juts  out  from  the  water  below,  and  from  it  I judged  the 
distance  which  the  water  falls  to  be  about  100  feet.  The  walls 
of  this  gigantic  crack  are  perpendicular,  and  composed  of  one 
homogeneous  mass  of  rock.  . . . 

“ I have  mentioned  that  we  saw  five  columns  of  vapor  ascend- 
ing from  this  strange  abyss.  They  are  evidently  formed  by  the 
compression  suffered  by  the  force  of  the  water’s  own  fall  into 
an  unyielding  wedge-shaped  space.  Of  the  five  columns,  two 
on  the  right  and  one  on  the  left  of  the  island  were  the  largest, 
and  the  streams  which  formed  them  seemed  each  to  exceed  in 
size  the  falls  of  the  Clyde  at  Stonebyres  when  that  river  is  in 
flood.  This  was  the  period  of  low  water  in  the  Leeambye  ; but, 
a3  far  as  I could  guess,  there  was  a flow  of  five  or  six  hundred 
\ ards  of  water,  which,  at  the  edge  of  the  fall,  seemed  at  least 
three  feet  deep.” 

Parting  from  Sekeletu  on  the'  26th  of  November,  and  accom- 
panied by  114  Makololo  to  carry  the  ivory  tusks  to  the  coast, 
Livingstone  struck  northward  and  travelled  for  a few  days  over  a 
beautiful  but  uninhabited  district.  Large  game  was  abun- 
dant ; in  the  distance  they  saw  buffaloes,  elauds,  hartbeests,  gnus, 
and  elephants,  all  very  tame,  as  there  was  no  one  to  disturb 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TUE  CONTINENT  149 


tlicir  haunts.  Lions,  which  always  accompany  other  large  ani- 
mals, roved  around  them,  but,  as  it  was  moonlight,  there  was 
no  danger.  One  evening,  while  standing  on  a mass  of  granite 
a short  distance  away,  one  began  to  roar  at  Livingstone,  though 
it  was  still  light. 

On  December  3d,  they  crossed  the  river  Mozuma,  and  en- 
tered the  territory  of  the  Batoka,  or  Batonga,  which  swarm  with 
inhabitants.  These  people  were  very  friendly,  and  brought 
presents  of  maize  and  other  food.  Their  mode  of  salutation,  as 


BATOKA  SALUTATIONS. 


described  by  Livingstone,  is  probably,  the  most  curious  on 
record : “ They  throw  themselves  on  their  backs  on  the  ground, 
and,  rolling  from  side  to  side,  slap  the  outside  of  their  thighs  as 
expressions  of  thankfulness  and  welcome,  uttering  the  words 
‘ Kina  bomba.’  This  method  of  salutation  was  to  me  very  dis- 
agreeable, and  I never  could  get  reconciled  to  it.  I called  out 
‘Stop,  stop;  I don’t  want  that;’  but  they,  imagining  I was 
dissatisfied,  only  tumbled  about  more  furiously,  and  slapped 
their  thighs  with  greater  vigor.” 

Pressing  slowly  eastward,  day  after  day,  the  party  reached 


150  LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  TEE  CONTINENT. 


the  Kafue  on  the  18th  of  December,  and  the  Zambesi  about  ten 
days  later.  “ As  we  approached  the  Zambesi,”  says  Livingstone, 
“ the  country  became  covered  with  broad-leaved  bushes,  pretty 
thickly  planted,  and  we  had  several  times  to  shout  to  elephants 
to  get  out  of  our  way.  At  an  open  space,  a herd  of  buffaloes 
came  trotting  up  to  look  at  our  oxen,  and  it  was  only  by  shoot- 
ing one  that  I made  them  retreat.  The  meat  is  very  much  like 
that  of  an  ox,  and  this  one  was  very  line.  The  only  danger  we 
actually  encountered  was  from  a female  elephant,  with  three 
young  ones  of  different  sizes.  Charging  through  the  centre  of 
our  extended  line,  and  causing  the  men  to  throw  down  their 
burdens  in  a great  hurry,  she  received  a spear  for  her  temerity. 
I never  saw  an  elephant  with  more  than  one  calf  before.  We 
knew  that  we  were  near  the  Zambesi  again,  even  before  the 
great  river  burst  upon  our  sight,  by  the  numbers  of  water-fowl 
we  met.  I killed  four  geese  with  two  shots,  and,  had  I fol- 
lowed the  wishes  of  my  men,  could  have  secured  a meal  of 
water-fowl  for  the  whole  party.  I never  saw  a river  with  so 
much  animal  life  around  and  in  it,  and,  as  the  Barotse  says, 
‘ Its  fish  and  fowl  are  always  fat.’  When  our  eyes  were  glad- 
dened by  a view  of  its  goodly  broad  waters,  we  found  it  very 
much  larger  than  it  is  even  above  the  fall.  One  might  try  to 
make  his  voice  heard  across  it  in  vain.  Its  flow  was  more  rapid 
than  near  Sesheke,  being  often  four  and  a half  miles  an  hour.” 

Still  pressing  forward,  through  hostile  tribes,  and  over  a 
rough  and  difficult  region,  where  food  could  be  procured  only 
with  the  greatest  difficulty,  they  reached  the  confluence  of  the 
Loangwa  and  the  Zambesi  on  the  14th  of  January,  1856.  Just 
below  here,  warned  by  the  rumors  of  a war  between  the  natives 
and  the  Portuguese,  they  crossed  the?  river  and  struck  off  south- 
wards, directly  toward  Tete,  which  was  reached,  after  many  ex- 
citing adventures,  on  March  3d.  At  Tete,  Livingstone  remained 
till  the  22d  of  April,  recruiting  his  health,  and  making  provision 
for  the  return  of  the  Makololo  bearers;  most  of  whom  were  to 
go  no  farther.  The  toils  and  dangers  of  the  long  journey  were 
now  over,  and  from  this  point  Livingstone  sailed  down  the  Zam- 
b ',si  to  Kilimane  (or  Quillimane),  a Portuguese  port  situated  at 
its  mouth. 

News  from  home  awaited  him  here,  together  with  much- 
needed  supplies  ; and  six  weeks  later,  on  the  12th  of  July,  he 
sailed  for  the  Mauritius  in  the  man-of-war  “Frolic.”  He  was 
accompanied  by  one  of  the  Makololo,  named  Sekwebu,  to  whom 
he  wished  to  show  the  achievements  of  civilization,  in  order  that 
he  might  report  them  to  his  countrymen.  But  Sekwebu  was 


LIVINGSTONE'S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT.  151 


destined  to  a more  melancholy  fate.  “ He  seemed  a little  be- 
wildered, everything  on  board  a man-of-war  being  so  new  and 
strange  ; but  he  remarked  to  me  several  times,  ‘ Your  county- 
men  are  very  agreeable,’  and,  ‘ What  a strange  country  this  is 
— all  water  together ! ’ He  also  said  that  he  now  understood 
why  I used  the  sextant.  When  we  reached  the  Mauritius  a 
steamer  came  out  to  tow  us  into  the  harbor.  The  constant 
strain  on  his  untutored  mind  seemed  now  to  reach  a climax, 
for  during  the  night  lie  became  insane.  I thought  at  first 
that  he  was  intoxicated.  lie  had  descended  into  a boat,  and, 
when  I attempted  to  go  down  and  bring  him  into  the  ship,  he 
ran  to  the  stern  and  said.  ‘ No ! no ! it  is  enough  that  I die 
alone.  You  must  not  perish ; if  you  come,  I shall  throw  my- 
self into  the  water.’  Perceiving  that  his  mind  was  affected,  I 
said,  ‘Now,  Sekwebu,  we  are  going  to  Ma  Robert.’  This 
struck  a cord  in  his  bosom,  and  he  said,  ‘ Oh  yes ; where  it 
she,  and  where  is  Robert?  ’ and  he  seemed  to  recover.  The  of- 
ficers proposed  to  secure  him  by  putting  him  in  irons;  but,  be- 
ing a gentleman  in  his  own  country,  I objected,  knowing  that 
the  insane  often  retain  an  impression  of  ill-treatment,  and  I 
could  not  bear  to  have  it  said  in  Sekeletu’s  country  that  I had 
chained  one  of  his  principal  men  as  they  had  seen  slaves 
treated.  I tried  to  get  him  on  shore  by  day,  but  he  refused, 
in  the  evening  a fresh  accession  of  insanity  occurred ; he  tried 
to  spear  one  of  the  crew,  then  leaped  overboard,  and,  though 
lie  could  swim  well,  pulled  himself  down  hand  under  hand  by 
the  chain  cable.  We  never  found  the  body  of  poor  Sekwebu.” 
On  the  12th  of  December,  1856,  Livingstone  was  once  again 
“in  dear  old  England,”  after  an  absence  of  nearly  eleven 
years. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


ANDERSSON’S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

Among  the  adventurous  spirits  in  whom  the  ardor  of  explor- 
ation was  aroused  by  Livingstone’s  discovery  of  Lake  Ngami, 
there  were  two  whose  discoveries  have  done  much  to  complete 
our  knowledge  of  that  portion  of  South  Africa  which  he  had 
opened  up  in  the  journeys  outlined  in  the  two  preceding 
chapters.  These  were  Carl  Johann  Andersson,  a Swede,  and 
Francis  Galton,  an  Englishman,  who  met  in  London  in  1850 
and  agreed  to  enter  jointly  upon  an  expedition  the  object  of 
which  was  to  explore  the  unknown  region  beyond  the  northern 
boundary  of  Cape  Colony,  and  to  penetrate  from  that  direction 
to  the  recently  discovered  Lake  Ngami. 

Reaching  Cape  Town,  June  23d,  1850,  they  planned  at  first 
to  proceed  northward  by  the  direct  'route  to  the  Lake,  but 
learning  that  the  Boers  on  the  Trans  Vaal  River  (the  very  line 
of  country  they  proposed  taking)  had  threatened  to  kill  any 
person  who  would  attempt  to  pass  through  their  territories  with 
the  intention  of  penetrating  to  Lake  Ngami,  they  abandoned 
their  plan  and  sailed  up  the  west  coast  to  Walfiscli  Bay  in  lat. 
22°  S.,  from  which  point  the  actual  distance  to  the  Lake  was 
scarcely  greater  than  from  Kuruman. 

The  first  stage  of  their  journey  to  the  interior  brought  them 
to  Scheppmansdorf,  a German  missionary  station,  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Kuisip  River.  Three  weeks  were  spent 
here  in  breaking  oxen  to  the  yoke  and  collecting  materials  for 
an  expedition,  and  it  was  not  until  November  13th  that  they 
were  ready  to  start  for  Barmen,  another  missionary  station  ly- 
ing in  the  remote  interior  of  Damara-land. 

Andersson  describes  the  Damaras  as  an  exceedingly  fine- 
looking  race  of  men,  tall  and  well  formed,  with  a graceful  and 
expressive  carriage.  Their  color  is  dark,  but  not  black ; but 
dirt  generally  accumulates  to  such  an  extent  as  to  make  the 
lme  of  the  skin  almost  totally  indistinguishable,  while  to  com- 
plete the  disguise,  they  smear  themselves  with  a profusion  of 
red  ochre  and  grease.  Both  sexes  go  almost  naked,  their  cloth- 


ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTII  AFRICA.  153 


in g consisting  merely  of  a sheep  or  goat  shin  wrapped  loosely 
round  *the  waist  or  thrown  over  the  shoulders.  Boys  wear  no 
clothing  whatever,  hut  the  girls  wear  a kind  of  apron  cut  up 
into  numberless  small  strings,  which  are  sometimes  ornamented 
with  iron  and  copper  beads.  Few  ornaments  are  worn  by  the 
men  ; but  the  women,  when  they  can  afford  it,  wear  a profusion 
of  iron  and  copper  rings  round  their  wrists  and  ankles.  The 
head-dress  of  the  married  women  is  curious  and  highly  pictur- 
esque, being  not  unlike  a helmet  in  shape  and  general  appear- 
ance. The  men  wind  strips  of  leather,  sometimes  several  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  round  their  loins,  and  carry  their  clubs  and 
pipes  therein.  They  are  well  armed  with  the  assagay,  which  is 
a sort  of  lance,  bows  and  arrows,  and  clubs.  They  are  so  skil- 
ful in  throwing  the  keni,  a stick  with  a knob  on  the  end,  that 
they  can  even  bring  down  birds  on  the  wing.  They  lead  a 
nomadic  life,  wandering  about  the  country  with  enormous  herds 
of  cattle,  and  leaving  it  bare  behind  them.  They  swear  by 
“ the  tears  of  their  mothers.” 

The  best  endeavors  of  the  missionaries,  at  the  time  of  Anders- 
son’s  visit,  had  had  but  little  effect  in  civilizing  the  Damaras. 
At  first  they  thought  the  missionaries  intended  to  plunder  them, 
and  retired  with  their  herds  to  the  interior.  Finding  that  this 
did  not  drive  them  away,  they  next  resolved  to  exterminate 
them,  and  were  only  brought  to  desist  from  their  purpose  by 
the  counsel  of  one  of  the  chiefs.  In  the  course  of  time  they 
became  more  friendly,  and  some  of  the  poorer  classes  have  set- 
tled in  the  neighborhood  of  the  missions.  To  a Damara  the 
idea  of  men  visiting  them  solely  from  love  and  charity  is 
utterly  inconceivable,  and  they  cannot  banish  a suspicion  that 
the  motives  of  the  strangers  must  be  interested. 

At  Barmen  the  travellers  heard  of  the  existence  of  a large 
fresh-water  lake,  called  Omanbonde,  lying  to  the  southward, 
and  resolved  to  explore  it.  The  region  which  they  would  have 
to  traverse  in  order  to  reach  it  was  totally  unknown,  and  the 
people  were  known  to  be  inhospitable,  treacherous,  suspicions, 
and  hostile  to  strangers  ; but  they  hoped  to  connect  their  name 
w*ith  the  discovery  of  another  “inland  sea”  in  the  heart  of  the 
continent,  and  the  first  week  in  December  found  them  ready  to 
start.  Their  disappointment  can  be  imagined  when  at  noon  on 
the  5th  of  April,  after  four  months  of  toil  and  privation  and  in- 
cessant marching,  they  reached  Lake  Omanbonde  and  found 
a dried  up  marsh  and  a patch  of  reeds!  There  were  indica- 
tions, indeed,  that  a lake  of  considerable  size  existed  here  in 
those  seasons  in  which  plenty  of  rain  fell,  and  that  elephants 


154  ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


and  hippopotami  were  in  the  habit  of  resorting  to  it  at  such 
times  ; but  this  was  but  slightly  consoling  to  travellers  who 
had  come  hither  in  the  hope  of  finding  another  Lake  Ngami. 

As  soon  as  they  had  recovered  from  the  bitterness  of  their 
disappointment  the  travellers  began  to  consider  whether  they 
should  return,  or  push  boldly  forward  into  the  interior. 
Among  the  Damaras  they  had  often  heard  of  a people  living  a 
considerable  distance  to  the  north,  who  were  called  theOvambo 
(or  Ovampo),  a people  of  agricultural  habits,  having  permanent 
dwellings,  and  reported  to  be  industrious  and  strictly  honest. 
The  Damaras  spoke  in  raptures  of  their  hospitality  and  friend- 
liness toward  strangers,  and  represented  them  as  a numerous 
and  powerful  nation,  ruled  by  a single  chief,  or  king,  who  was 
of  gigantic  size.  The  Ovambo  carried  on  a lively  trade  with 
the  Damaras,  to  whom  they  bartered  cattle  for  ironware ; and 
as  this  proved  that  the  intervening  country  was  passable,  An* 
dersson  and  Galton  determined  to  make  an  attempt  to  reach 
this  interesting  land.  They  left  Omanbonde  accordingly  on 
April  12th,  and  started  northward  over  a fine  country  well 
supplied  with  water,  and  abounding  in  game,  among  which  were 
elephants  and  cameleopards  in  great  numbers.  Just  after  leav- 
ing Okamabuti,  the  last  town  in  Datnara-iand,  a calamity  which 
they  had  long  dreaded  befel  them:  the  axle  of  their  large 
wagon  broke.  As  there  were  no  means  of  mending  it  quickly, 
and  the  season  was  already  advanced,  they  resolved  to  leave 
the  vehicles  behind  and  prosecute  the  journey  by  means  of 
pack  and  saddle  oxen.  No  trustworthy  guide,  however,  could 
be  procured ; and  in  endeavoring  to  make  their  way  without 
one,  the  travellers  were  already  lost,  when  they  were  fortunate 
enough  to  fall  in  with  a caravan  of  the  Ovambos  who  were  on 
their  way  to  Okamabuti  to  trade,  and  who  told  them  that  they 
were  welcome  to  accompany  them  home  to  Ovambo-land. 

The  caravan  consisted  of  twenty-three  individuals,  but  in  the 
return  journey  it  numbered  170  persons,  many  Damaias — 
among  them  70  or  80  women — having  decided  to  join  it.  The 
Ovambos  had  with  them  at  the  start  some  200  head  of  cattle, 
which  they  had  collected  by  their  trading  with  the  Damaras, 
and  were  ready  to  set  out  on  the  22d  of  May.  On  the  29th  of 
May,  after  a steady  march  of  seven  days  over  a country  inhab- 
ited only  by  poor  Bushmen,  and  covered  in  parts  with  dense 
thorn  coppices  which  it  was  almost  impossible  to  penetrate,  the 
caravan  reached  the  first  cattle-post  belonging  to  the  Ovambo. 
This  they  found  swarming  with  people  as  well  as  cattle,  the  lat- 
ter numbering  from  three  to  four  thousand;  and  immediately 


ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  155 


on  their  arrival  they  were  surrounded  by  great  numbers  of  in- 
quisitive natives  who  had  never  before  seen  white  men.  Here 
they  became  practically  acquainted  with  the  Ovambo  method 
of  welcoming  friends:  it  consists  of  smearing  fresh  butter 
thickly  over  the  face  and  breast  of  each  individual. 

After  a stay  of  two  days,  they  again  moved  forward,  and  on 
the  2d  of  June  entered  upon  the  beautiful  and  fertile  plains  of 
Ondonga,  the  country  of  the  Ovambo.  “Vain,”  says  Andersson, 
“ would  be  any  attempt  to  describe  the  sensations  of  delight  and 
pleasure  experienced  by  us  on  that  memorable  occasion,  or  to 
give  an  idea  of  the  enchanting  panoramic  scene  that  all  at 
once  opened  on  our  view.  Suffice  it  to  say  that,  instead  of 
the  eternal  jungles,  where  every  moment  we  were  in  danger  of 
being  dragged  out  of  our  saddles  by  the  merciless  thorns,  the 
landscape  now  presented  an  apparently  boundless  field  of  yel- 
low corn,  dotted  with  numerous  peaceful  homesteads,  and 
bathed  in  the  soft  light  of  a declining  tropical  sun.  Here  and 
there,  rose  gigantic,  wide-spreading,  and  dark-foliaged  timber 
and  fruit-trees,  while  innumerable  fan-like  palms,  either  singly 
or  in  groups,  completed  the  picture.  To  us  it  was  a perfect 
Elysium,  and  well  rewarded  ns  for  every  former  toil  and  dis- 
appointment.” 

There  arc  no  towns  or  villages  in  Ovambo-land,  but  each 
family  has  a separate  homestead,  situated  in  the  middle  of  a 
corn-field  and  surrounded  by  high  and  stout  palisades.  This 
latter  was  a precaution  against  the  sudden  attack  of  a neigh- 
boring hostile  tribe.  Two  kinds  of  grain  are  cultivated  : the 
common  Kaff're-corn,  and  another  small-grained  sort  resem- 
bling the  “badjera”  of  India.  When  the  grain  is  ripe  the 
car  is  simply  cutoff,  and  the  remainder  is  left  to  the  cattle, 
which  devour  it  greedily.  Besides  grain  the  Ovambo  cultivate 
calabashes,  watermelons,  pumpkins,  beans,  and  peas.  They 
also  raise  tobacco — though  of  a very  inferior  quality.  When 
ripe,  the  leaves  and  stalks  are  collected  aud  mashed  together 
in  a hollow  piece  of  wood  by  means  of  a heavy  pole.  The 
Ovambo  have  vast  herds  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats,  and  breed 
hogs  said  to  be  of  enormous  size;  their  other  domestic  ani- 
mals are  dogs  and  fowls.  The  travellers  were  unable  to  ascer- 
tain either  the  extent  of  the  country  or  the  density  of  popula- 
tion, but  Andersson  concluded,  from  what  he  saw,  that  there 
are  about  a hundred  persons  to  every  square  mile. 

At  the  distance  of  four  days’  journey  from  the  frontier  they 
reached  the  residence  of  the  redoubtable  Nangoro,  and  notified 
him  of  their  arrival.  They  were  not  allowed,  however,  to  cn- 


156  ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA . 


ter  the  royal  enclosures,  but  a clump  of  trees  was  assigned  them 
for  a camping-ground,  and  three  days  elapsed  before  the  king 
called  upon  them,  intending  by  this  delay  to  impress  them 
with  a due  sense  of  his  dignity.  He  was  immensely  fat,  and 
of  a most  unwieldy  figure,  while  his  state  of  almost  perfect 
nudity  showed  him  off  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage.  His 
excessive  fat  made  him  so  short-winded,  that  when  Galton  ad- 
dressed him  eloquently  in  explanation  of  their  visit  to  the 
country,  he  could  only  grunt  when  he  desired  to  express  either 
approbation  or  dissatisfaction. 

In  common  with  his  men,  Nangoro  was  at  first  very  incredu- 
lous as  to  the  effect  of  fire-arms — he  thought  that  by  blowing 
into  the  muzzles,  the  gun  could  be  rendered  harmless ; but 
when  he  saw  the  depth  to  which  steel -pointed  conical  balls 
penetrated  in  a sound  tree,  he  changed  his  opinion.  As  for 
the  natives  who  had  not  yet  seen  guns,  and  who  had  flocked  to 
the  camp  to  see  the  strangers,  they  were  so  alarmed  that  at  the 
instant  of  each  discharge,  they  fell  flat  on  their  faces,  and  re- 
mained so  for  some  Jittle  time  afterwards.  At  his  next  visit 
Nangoro  requested  them  to  shoot  some  elephants  which  at 
times  committed  great  havoc  among  his  corn-fields.  This  they 
refused,  however,  fearing  that  he  would  not  only  keep  the  ivory 
for  himself,  but  would  detain  them  in  the  country  till  all  the 
elephants  were  shot  or  scared  away. 

The  Ovambo  arc  decidedly  hospitable,  and  the  travellers 
were  well  entertained.  Nangoro  furnished  them  with  food 
and  a kind  of  beer  brewed  from  grain  ; and  every  night  soon 
after  dark  there  was  a ball  at  the  royal  residence,  at  which  the 
people  danced  to  the  music  of  the  well-known  African  tomtom 
and  a kind  of  guitar.  The  features  of  the  Ovambo  women, 
though  coarse,  are  not  unpleasing,  and  when  young  they  have 
very  good  figures.  As  they  grow  older,  however,  their  sym- 
metry disappears  and  they  become  exceedingly  stout  and  un- 
gainly. One  of  the  causes  of  this  is  probably  to  be  found  in 
the  heavy  copper  ornaments  with  which  they  load  their  wrists 
and  ankles;  some  of  these  ankle-rings  weigh  two  or  three 
} ounds  apiece,  and  they  wear  a pair  on  each  leg.  Moreover, 
their  necks,  wrists,  and  hips  are  almost  hidden  from  view  by  a 
profusion  of  shells,  cowries,  and  beads  of  every  size  and 
color ; these  contribute  to  their  dress.  Another  cause  of  their 
losing  their  good  looks  in  early  life  is  the  constant  and  severe 
labor  they  are  obliged  to  undergo.  No  one  is  allowed  to  be 
idle  in  this  land  of  industry.  Work  begins  at  sunrise  and  ends 
at  sunset.  The  hair  of  both  sexes  is  short,  crisp,  and  woolly. 


ANDERSSONS  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  157 


The  men  often  shave  the  head,  with  the  exception  of  the 
crown  ; and  the  women  besmear  and  stiffen  their  hair  with 
grease  and  a vermilion-colored  substance,  which,  from  being 
constantly  added  to,  and  pressed  upon,  gives  to  the  upper  part 
of  the  head  a broad  and  Hat  look.  The  women  also  smear 
their  persons  liberally  with  greese  and  red  ochre.  Besides  ear- 
rings of  beads  or  shells,  the  men  display  but  few  ornaments. 
Both  sexes  chip  the  middle  tooth  of  the  under  jaw  011  arriving 
at  the  age  of  puberty. 

I11  marked  contrast  to  their  neighbors,  the  Damaras  and 


OVAMBO:  MAN  AND  WIFE. 


Namaquas,  the  Ovambo  arc  strictly  honest.  Indeed,  they  ap- 
pear to  entertain  a perfect  horror  of  theft,  and  told  Andersson 
that  a man  detected  in  pilfering  would  be  brought  into  the 
king’s  presence  and  there  speared  to  death.  Without  permis- 
sion the  natives  would  not  even  touch  anything;  and  the  trav- 
ellers could  leave  their  camp  entirely  unwatched.  Nor  is 
honesty  the  only  good  quality  of  this* people.  There  is  no 
pauperism  among  them,  and  the  aged  and  crippled  are  care- 
fully nursed.  The  Damaras,  on  the  other  hand,  when  a man 
becomes  old  and  helpless,  either  carry  him  into  the  desert  01 


158  ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


forest,  where  he  soon  falls  a prey  to  wild  beasts,  or  knock  him 
on  the  head,  or  leave  him  to  starve  on  his  own  hearth.  The 
Ovambo  are  very  patriotic  and  exceedingly  fond  of  their  native 
soil.  They  are  offended  when  asked  the  number  of  chiefs  by 
whom  they  arc  ruled  : “We  acknowledge  only  one  king  ; but 
a Damara,”  they  add,  “when  possessed  of  a few  cows,  con- 
siders himself  at  once  a chieftain.”  Their  morality,  however, 
is  very  low,  and  polygamy  is  practised  to  a great  extent,  each 
man  having  as  many  wives  as  he  can  afford  to  buy.  If  the 
husband  be  poor,  the  price  of  a wife  is  two  oxen  and  one  cow  ; 
but  should  his  circumstances  be  tolerably  flourishing,  three 
oxen  and  two  cows  are  expected.  The  king,  however,  is  an  ex- 
ception to  this  rule,  the  honor  of  the  alliance  being  regarded  as 
a sufficient  compensation.  Nangoro  had  profited  by  this  privi- 
lege to  such  an  extent,  that  his  harem  contained  106  beauties 
gathered  from  all  quarters  of  his  realm. 

While  staying  at  Nangoro’s  capital,  the  travellers  heard  fre- 
quent mention  of  a large  river  about  eight  days’ journey  to  the 
northward,  which  flowed  to  the  west  and  emptied  into  the  sea. 
They  had  no  doubt  that  this  river  was  no  other  than  the  Ku- 
nene  (or  Cunene),  whose  mouth  had  been  discovered  many 
years  before  * ; and  they  determined,  if  possible,  to  push  on- 
ward and  reach  it.  In  order  to  do  this,  however,  N angoro’s  as- 
sistance was  absolutely  indispensable,  and  this  the  surly  chief 
positively  refused — saying  that  as  they  did  not  choose  to  kill 
elephants  for  him,  he  would  not  oblige  them  in  this  matter. 
Nothing  was  left,  therefore,  but  for  them  to  retrace  their  steps 
as  speedily  as  possible,  and  they  took  their  departure  from 
Ovainbo-land  on  June  15th.  On  the  1st  of  July,  after  a fort 
night’s  steady  travel,  they  reached  their  wagons  in  safety  ; and 
about  a month  later,  on  the  4th  of  August,  their  expedition  was 
brought  to  an  end  by  their  arrival  in  Barmen. 

It  was  now  the  intention  of  the  travellers  to  return  to  Cape 
Town  by  the  missionary  vessel  which,  once  in  two  years, 
brought  stores  to  Walfiscli  Bay ; but  as  its  arrival  was  not  ex- 
pected till  December,  they  concluded  to  use  the  intervening 
t’me  in  one  more  attempt  to  reach  Lake  Ngami.  Waiting 
only  long  enough  to  replenish  their  stores,  they  set  out  from 
Barmen  on  August  12th,  and  after  suffering  terribly  from  the 
heat,  drought,  and  scarcity  of  grain  and  pasturage  between  the 


* This  river  has  since  been  partly  explored.  It  flows  into  the  sea  near  the 
Great  Fish  Bay. 


ANDERSSON' 8 EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  159 


few  and  widely  separated  watering-places,  reached  Tunobis, 
or  Otjoinbindc,  in  lat.  21°  55'  S.  and  long.  21°  55'  E.,  on  the 
3d  of  October.  Here  they  were  not  above  ten  days’  journey 
from  the  Lake,  but  the  Bushmen  living  in  the  vicinity  convinced 
them  that  the  country  was  then  impassable,  and  they  were 
compelled  to  retrace  their  weary  steps  to  the  (toast.  Arriving 
at  Walfiseh  Bay,  Gal  ton  took  passage  for  England,  but  left 
Andersson  his  equipage  and  stores,  the  latter  having  resolved 
to  remain  behind  and  make  still  another  attempt  at  reaching 
Lake  Ngami  after  the  rainy  reason  was  over. 

Andersson  found,  however,  that  in  order  to  secure  a reason- 
able chance  of  success,  it  would  be  necessary  to  supply  himself 
more  liberally  with  materials  for  barter  with  the  natives;  and, 
accordingly,  lie  secured  a herd  of  cattle  by  trading  with  the 
Damaras,  and  drove  them  down  the  coast  to  Cape  Town.  Ilis 
speculation  was  tolerably  successful,  and  having  procured  the 
necessary  supplies,  he  again  sailed  for  Walfiscli  Bay,  arriving 
there  on  the  23d  of  January,  1853.  Proceeding  at  once  to 
organize  his  caravan — which  consisted  this  time  of  pack  and  sad- 
dle oxen  instead  of  wagons,  lie  was  ready  to  start  from  Barmen 
on  April  5th ; and  following  the  former  route  to  Tunobis,  reached 
the  latter  place  in  about  a month.  Owing  to  the  scarcity  of 
food  and  water,  both  men  and  oxen  were  nearly  used  up  by  the 
time  of  their  arrival  there;  but  concluding  that  it  was  as 
dangerous  to  return  as  to  push  forward,  he  determined  to  set 
out  for  the  Lake.  Andersson  himself  was  anxious  to  take  as 
straight  a course  as  possible ; but  the  Bushmen  again  warned 
him  that  the  “field  ” in  that  direction  was  a howling  wilder- 
ness, totally  destitute  of  water.  They  told  him,  however,  that 
by  travelling  southward  a few  stages  along  the  dry  water-course 
of  the  Otjombinde,  and  then  striking  eastward,  he  would  run 
no  risk.  This  course  he  adopted  ; and  after  following  the  dry 
river-bed  for  several  days,  turned  to  the  east,  and  on  the  third 
day  was  fortunate  enough  to  find  Ghanze,  a fountain  well 
known  to  the  Bushmen  and  Griquas,  and  much  frequented  by 
the  rhinoceros.  Having  enjoyed  there  a good  deal  of  shoot- 
ing, and  feasted  themselves  on  rhinoceros-flesh,  the  caravan 
left  Ghanze  on  June  23d,  and  immediately  found  themselves 
in  a thorny  and  waterless  desert.  Two  stages  farther  they 
came  upon  another  and  still  larger  fountain,  called  Abeghan, 
which  was  the  resort  of  immense  numbers  of  elephants  and 
other  large  game.  Here  Andersson  resolved  to  remain  for  a 
few  days  while  he  sent  one  of  his  men,  escorted  by  Bushmen, 
to  the  Lake  to  make  known  his  approach  to  the  natives.  Le- 


160  ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


clioletebe,  tlie  chief,  received  the  messengers  kindly,  assured 
them  he  would  be  glad  to  see  the  white  man,  and  even  sent 
forward  a party  of  his  men  to  render  assistance. 

Though  now  most  eager  to  reach  the  goal  of  his  journey, 
Andersson  determined  to  remain  for  one  more  night  at  the 
fountain  in  order  to  shoot  game.  Here  he  nearly  lost  his  life 
in  an  adventure  which  we  reproduce,  as  a specimen  of  the 
many  similar  ones  which  he  records  in  his  narrative : 

“ From  the  constant  persecution  to  which  the  larger  game 
had  of  late  been  subjected  at  Kobis,  it  had  become  not  only 
scarce,  but  wary  ; and  hearing  that  elephants  and  rhinoceroses 
still  continued  to  resort  to  Abeghan,  I forthwith  proceeded 
there  on  the  night  in  question.  Somewhat  incautiously  I took 
up  my  position — alone,  as  usual — on  a narrow  neck  of  land 
dividing  two  small  pools,  the  space  on  either  side  of  my 
‘ skarm  ’ * being  only  sufficient  for  a large  animal  to  stand  be- 
tween me  and  the  water.  I was  provided  with  a blanket  and 
two  or  three  spare  guns. 

“ It  was  one  of  those  magnificent  tropical  moonlight  nights 
when  an  indescribable  soft  and  enchanting  light  is  shed  over 
the  slumbering  landscape ; the  moon  was  so  bright  and  clear 
that  I could  discern  even  a small  animal  at  a considerable  dis- 
tance. I had  just  completed  my  arrangements,  when  a noise 
that  I can  liken  only  to  the  passage  of  a train  of  artillery  broke 
the  stillness  of  the  air;  it  evidently  came  from  the  direction  of 
one  of  the  numerous  stony  paths,  or  rather  tracks,  leading  to 
the  water,  and  I imagined  it  was  caused  by  some  wagons  that 
might  have  crossed  the  Kalahari.  Raising  myself  partially 
from  my  recumbent  posture,  I fixed  my  eyes  steadily  on  the 
part  of  the  bush  whence  the  strange  sounds  proceeded,  but  for 
some  time  I was  unable  to  make  out  the  cause.  All  at  once, 
however,  the  mystery  was  explained  by  the  appearance  of  an 
immense  elephant,  immediately  followed  by  others,  amounting 
to  eighteen.  Their  towering  forms  told  me  at  a glance  that 
they  were  all  males.  It  was  a splendid  sight  to  behold  so  many 
huge  creatures  approaching  with  a free,  sweeping,  unsuspecting, 
and  stately  step.  The  somewhat  elevated  ground  whence  they 
emerged,  and  which  gradually  sloped  toward  the  water,  to- 
gether with  the  misty  night  air,  gave  an  increased  appearance 
of  bulk  and  mightiness  to  their  naturally  giant  structures. 

“ Crouching  down  as  low  as  possible  in  the  4 skarm/  I waited 


A shallow  pit  with  a barrier  of  stones  in  front. 


ANDKRSSON  ATTACKED  BY  AN  ELEPHANT. 


ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA . 161 


with  a beating  heart  and  ready  rifle  the  approach  of  the  leading 
male,  who,  unconscious  of  peril,  was  making  straight  for  my 
hiding-place.  The  position  of  his  body,  however,  was  unfavor- 
able for  a shot ; and  knowing  from  experience  that  1 had  little 
chance  of  obtaining  more  than  a single  good  one,  I waited  for 
an  opportunity  to  Are  at  his  shoulder,  which  is  preferable  to  any 
other  part  when  shooting  at  night.  But  this  chance,  unfortu- 
nately, was  not  afforded  till  his  enormous  bulk  towered  above 
my  head.  The  consequence  was,  that,  while  in  the  act  of 
raising  the  muzzle  of  my  rifle  over  the  ‘ skarm,’  my  body 
caught  his  eye,  and,  before  I could  place  the  piece  to  my  shoul- 
der, he  swung  himself  round,  and,  with  trunk  elevated  and  ears 
spread,  desperately  charged  me.  It  was  now  too  late  to  think 
of  flight,  much  less  of  slaying  the  savage  beast.  My  own  life 
was  in  imminent  jeopardy  ; and,  seeing  that  if  I remained  par- 
tially erect,  he  would  inevitably  seize  me  with  his  proboscis,  I 
threw  myself  on  my  back  with  some  violence,  in  which  posi- 
tion, and  without  shouldering  the  rifle,  I fired  upward  at  ran- 
dom toward  his  chest,  uttering  at  the  same  time  the  most 

Eicrcing  shouts  and  cries.  The  change  of  position,  in  all 
liman  probability,  saved  my  life  ; for,  at  the  same  instant,  the 
trunk  of  the  enraged  animal  descended  precisely  on  the  spot 
where  I had  been  previously  crouched,  sweeping  away  the  stones 
(many  of  a large  size)  that  formed  the  fore  part  of  my  ‘ skarm  ’ 
like  so  many  pebbles.  In  another  moment  his  broad  fore  feet 
passed  directly  over  my  face. 

“ I now  expected  nothing  short  of  being  crushed  to  death. 
But  imagine  my  relief  when,  instead  of  renewing  the  charge, 
he  swerved  to  the  left,  and  moved  off  with  considerable  rapidity, 
most  happily  without  my  having  received  any  other  injuries 
than  a few  bruises,  occasioned  by  the  falling  of  the  stones. 
Immediately  after  the  elephant  had  left  me  I was  on  my  legs, 
and,  snatching  up  a spare  rifle  lying  at  hand,  I pointed  at  him 
as  he  was  retreating,  and  pulled  the  trigger;  but  to  my  intense 
mortification  the  piece  missed  fire.  It  was  a matter  of  thank- 
fulness to  me,  however,  that  a similar  mishap  had  not  occurred 
when  the  animal  charged  ; for  had  my  gun  not  then  exploded, 
nothing,  as  I conceive,  could  have  saved  me  from  destruction. 

“ While  pondering  over  my  late  wonderful  escape,  I observed, 
at  a little  distance,  a huge  white  rhinoceros  protrude  his  pon- 
derous and  misshapen  head  through  the  bushes,  and  presently 
afterward  he  approached  to  within  a dozen  paces  of  my  am- 
buscade. His  broadside  was  then  fully  exposed  to  view,  and 
notwithstanding  I still  felt  a little  nervous  from  my  conflict 
11 


162  ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

with  the  elephant,  I lost  no  time  in  firing.  The  beast  did  not 
at  once  fall  to  the  ground,  but  from  appearances  I had  every 
reason  to  believe  he  would  not  live  long.  Scarcely  had  I re- 
loaded when  a black  rhinoceros  of  the  species  Keitloa  (a  female, 
as  it  proved)  stood  drinking  at  the  water  ; but  her  position,  as 
with  the  elephant  in  the  first  instance,  was  unfavorable  for  a 
good  shot.  As,  however,  she  was  very  near  me,  I thought  I 
was  pretty  sure  of  breaking  her  leg  and  thereby  disabling  her, 
and  in  this  I succeeded.  My  fire  seemed  to  madden  her:  she 
rushed  wildly  forward  on  three  legs,  when  I gave  her  a second 
shot,  though  apparently  with  little  or  no  effect.  I felt  sorry  at 
not  being  able  to  end  her  sufferings  at  once  ; but,  as  I was  too 
well  acquainted  with  the  habits  of  the  rhinoceros  to  venture  on 
pursuing  her  under  the  circumstances,  I determined  to  wait 
patiently  for  daylight,  and  then  destroy  her  with  the  aid  of  my 
dogs.  But  it  was  not  to  be. 

“ As  no  more  elephants  or  other  large  game  appeared,  I 
thought,  after  a time,  it  might  be  as  well  to  go  in  search  of  the 
white  rhinoceros  previously  wounded  ; I was  not  long  in  find- 
liis  carcass ; for  my  ball,  as  I supposed,  had  caused  his  almost 
immediate  death. 

“ In  heading  back  to  my  { skarm,’  I accidentally  took  a turn 
in  the  direction  pursued  by  the  black  rhinoceros,  and  by  ill-luck, 
as  the  event  proved,  at  once  encountered  her.  She  was  still  on 
her  legs,  but  her  position,  as  before,  was  unfavorable.  Hoping, 
however,  to  make  her  change  it  for  a better,  and  thus  enable  me 
to  destroy  her  at  once,  I took  up  a stone,  and  hurled  it  at  her  with 
all  my  force ; when,  snorting  horribly,  erecting  her  tail,  keeping 
her  head  close  to  the  ground,  and  raising  clouds  of  dust  by  her 
feet,  she  rushed  at  me  with  fearful  fury.  I had  only  just  time 
to  level  my  rifle,  and  fire  before  she  was  upon  me  ; and  the  next 
instant,  while  instinctively  turning  round  for  the  purpose  of 
retreating,  she  laid  me  prostrate.  The  shock  was  so  violent  as 
to  send  my  rifle,  powder-flask,  and  a ball-pouch,  as  also  my  cap, 
spinning  in  the  air ; the  gun,  indeed,  as  afterward  ascertained, 
to  a distance  of  fully  ten  feet.  On  the  beast  charging  me,  it 
CiOssed  my  mind  that,  unless  gored  at  once  by  her  horn,  her 
impetus1  would  be  such  (after  knocking  me  down,  which  I took 
for  granted  would  be  the  case)  as  to  carry  her  beyond  me,  and 
I might  thus  be  afforded  a chance  of  escape.  So,  indeed,  it 
happened  ; for,  having  tumbled  me  over  (in  doing  which  her 
head,  and  the  fore  part  of  her  body,  owing  to  the  violence  of 
the  charge,  was  half  buried  in  the  sand),  and  trampled  on  me 
with  great  violence,  her  fore  quarter  passed  over  my  body.  ' 


ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  163 


Struggling  for  life,  I seized  my  opportunity,  and  as  slie  was  re- 
covering herself  for  a renewal  of  the  charge,  I scrambled  out 
from  between  her  hind  legs. 

“ Ihit  the  enraged  beast  had  not  yet  done  with  mo.  Scarcely 
had  I regained  iny  feet  before  she  struck  me  down  a second 
time,  and  with  her  horn  ripped  up  my  right  thigh  (though  not 
very  deeply)  from  near  the  knee  to  the  hip;  with  her  fore  feet, 
moreover,  she  hit  me  a terrific  blow  on  the  left  shoulder,  near 
the  back  of  the  neck.  My  ribs  bent  under  the  enormous 
weight  and  pressure,  and  for  a moment  I must,  as  I believe, 
have  lost  consciousness — I have,  at  least,  very  indistinct  notions 
of  what  afterward  took  place.  All  1 remember  is,  that  when  I 
raised  mv  head  I heard  a furious  snorting  and  plunging  among 
the  neighboring  bushes.  I now  arose,  though  with  great  diffi- 
culty, and  made  my  way,  in  the  best  manner  I was  able,  toward 
a lai  ge  tree  near  at  hand  for  shelter ; but  this  precaution  was 
needless;  the  beast,  for  the  time  at  least,  showed  no  inclination 
further  to  molest  me.  Either  in  the  melee,  or  owing  to  the 
confusion  caused  by  her  wounds,  she  had  lost  sight  of  me,  or 
slie  felt  satisfied  with  the  revenge  she  had  taken.  Be  that  as 
it  may,  I escaped  with  life,  though  sadly  wounded  and  severely 
bruised,  in  which  disabled  state  I had  great  difficulty  in  get- 
ting back  to  my  skarm.” 

The  men  sent  forward  as  guides  by  Lecholetebe  belonged  to 
a tribe  called  Betoaim,  residing  on  the  shores  of  the  Lake. 
They  were  remarkably  fine-looking  fellows,  stout  and  well 
built,  resembling  the  Damaras  in  appearance.  The  route  now 
followed  lay  through  a densely  wooded  region  ; “ the  wait-a- 
bit  ” thorns  being  extremely  harassing,  tearing  clothes,  and  even 
saddle-bags  made  of  strong  ox  hide,  into  ribbons.  Nevertheless, 
about  noon  on  the  third  day  after  leaving  Abeghan,  the  cry 
of  “ Ngaini ! Ngaini!  ” was  raised  at  the  head  of  the  caravan, 
and  there,  spread  out  before  him,  Andersson  saw  the  object  of 
his  ambition  for  years — an  immense  sheet  of  water  bounded 
only  by  the  horizon.  A closer  examination,  however,  failed  to 
confirm  the  first  striking  impression.  The  Lake  was  now  very 
low,  and,  at  the  point  first  seen,  exceedingly  shallow.  The 
water,  which  had  a very  bitter  and  disagreeable  taste,  was  only 
approachable  in  a few  places,  partly  on  account  of  the  mud, 
and  partly  because  of  the  thick  coating  of  reeds  and  rushes  that 
liued  the  shore.  Skirting  the  southern  border  of  Ngaini  for 
two  days,  Andersson  at  length  reached  the  residence  of  Lechol- 
ctebo,  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  theZouga,  a short  distance 
from  the  Lake.  At  the  earlier  interviews,  Lecholetebe  spent 


104  ANDERSS ON'S  EXPLORATION’S  IN’  SOUTH.  AFRICA. 

the  time  chiefly  in  begging  for  presents,  and  peremptorily 
declined  to  furnish  any  information  whatever  about  eithci 
the  country  or  the  people:  but  when  on  a favorable  occasion 
Andersson  explained  his  desire  to  push  on  to  Libebe,  a place 
lying  considerably  to  the  north  of  the  Lake,  and  asked  to  be 


HIPPOPOTAMUS  HUNTING-. 


furnished  with  men  and  canoes,  he  assented  at  once  to  the 
proposal.  This  was  so  extraordinary,  and  so  contrary  to  the 
chief’s  known  policy,  that  Andersson  suspected  deceit  of  some 
kind ; and  the  sequel  proved  that  he  was  not  mistaken. 

The  first  stage  in  the  journey  to  Libebe  was  to  ascend  the 
river  Teoge,  which  enters  the  Lake  at  its  north-west  extremity. 


A NDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  1G5 


For  this  purpose  Andersson  was  provided  by  the  chief  with  two 
cauoes — clumsy  craft,  consisting  of  the  trunk  of  a tree  about  20 
feet  long  pointed  at  both  ends  and  hollowed  out  by  fire,  and  not 
always  straight.  In  consequence  of  the  frail  structure  of  their 
craft,  the  boatmen  hugged  the  shore  so  closely  that  it  was  three 
days  after  leaving  Lecholetebe’s  capital  before  they  reached 
the  mouth  of  the  Teoge.  They  found  the  river  to  be  about  forty- 
yards  wide  at  its  entrance  into  the  Lake,  and  very  deep  after 
the  bar  was  crossed.  For  the  first  few  days  going  up,  the 
country  presented  a dreary  and  monotonous  appearance,  being 
frequently  submerged  for  many  miles  on  either  hand ; but  on 
the  fourth  day  the  landscape  assumed  a more  pleasing  aspect, 
the  banks  of  the  river  became  higher,  and  these  were  richly 
covered  with  a profuse  and  varied  vegetation.  And  there  was 
a corresponding  exuberance  of  animal  life.  Rhinoceroses, 
hippopotami,  buffaloes,  hartbeests,  pallahs,  reed-birds,  leches, 
koodoos,  and  sassabys  were  seen  in  immense  numbers ; while 
huge  crocodiles  basked  in  the  sunshine  in  the  more  secluded 
parts  of  the  river.  At  length,  after  about  twelve  days’ voyag- 
ing, they  reached  a larger  village  where  the  great  chief  of  the 
Bayetye  resided.  Here  Andersson  had  been  given  to  under- 
stand that  new  men  and  other  boats  would  be  provided  for  the 
further  prosecution  of  his  journey ; but  he  found  the  town  de- 
serted by  the  men,  who  had  gone  off  to  hunt  hippopotami  and 
would  not  be  back,  so  the  women  said,  in  less  than  a month. 
All  attempts  to  procure  guides,  or  boats,  or  provisions  for  the 
journey  onward  to  Libebe  were  unavailing ; and  it  was  only 
when,  mortified  and  disgusted  at  Lecholetebe’s  treachery  (for 
he  discovered  that  all  this  had  been  pre-arranged  by  that 
wily  chief),  he  resolved  to  return  to  Ngami,  that  the  people 
could  be  brought  to  render  him  the  necessary  assistance.  Ac- 
cordingly, after  about  a month’s  absence,  Andersson  found 
himself  once  more  safe  at  Batoana-town.  The  most  substantial 
result  of  this  journey  was  the  proof  which  he  acquired  that 
Lake  Ngami  receives  its  chief  supply  from  the  north-wrest. 
He  himself  believed  that  he  had  also  collected  evidence  from 
the  natives  sufficient  to  prove  the  existence  of  another  large 
river  only  two  or  three  days’  journey  from  the  Teoge,  but  flow- 
ing in  an  opposite  direction  and  probably  into  the  Atlantic. 
This,  however,  has  not  been  verified  as  yet. 

The  animal  life  around  the  Lake,  as  well  as  on  the  Teoge,  is 
wonderfully  abundant  and  varied ; hippopotami  abound  on 
the  northern  side,  and  otters  are  not  uncommon.  Aquatic 
birds  are  particularly  numerous,  there  being  no  less  than  nine- 


166  ANDERSSON '8  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA 


teen  species  of  ducks  and  geese,  ten  of  herons,  and  several  of 
storks  and  cranes.  The  people  who  dwell  on  the  shores  of 
the  Lake  are  called  Batoaua;  and  they  are  a small  tribe  of  that 
large  family  of  blacks,  known  as  Bechuanas,  who,  as  a whole, 
are  probably  the  most  widely  distributed  and  most  powerful  of 
all  the  dark-colored  natives  of  South  Africa.  In  manners, 
habits,  and  customs,  as  well  as  in  personal  appearance,  they 
closely  resemble  the  Damaras ; but  instead  of  cattle-breeding 
their  principal  industry  is  agriculture  and  gardening,  which 
they  carry  on  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Ovambos. 

When  arrested  so  unexpectedly  in  his  exploring  career  by 
the  artifices  of  Lecholetebe,  Andersson  made  up  his  mind  to 
return  at  once  to  the  coast ; but  his  collection  of  ivory,  speci- 
mens of  natural  history,  curiosities,  etc.,  had  by  this  time  so 
increased  that  he  found  it  impossible  to  transport  them  with 
the  few  pack-and-saddle  oxen  that  remained.  A wagon  had 
become  absolutely  necessary,  and  as  the  only  possible  way  of 
obtaining  one,  he  set  out  across  the  wilderness  for  Hamaqua- 
land.  During  the  four  months  that  elapsed  before  he  again 
reached  Lake  Ngami,  he  travelled,  either  alone  or  accompanied 
by  a single  native,  sometimes  on  foot  and  at  others  on  horse- 
back or  ox-back,  over  more  than  a thousand  miles  of  country, 
parts  of  it  emulating  the  Sahara  in  scarcity  of  water  and  gen- 
eral inhospitality.  Besides  narrow  escapes  from  lions  and 
other  dangerous  beasts,  he  was  occasionally  as  much  as  two 
days  without  tasting  food,  and  it  frequently  happened  that  in 
the  course  of  twenty-four  hours  he  could  only  once  or  twice 
moisten  his  parched  lips.  His  perseverance,  however,  over- 
came all  obstacles,  and  in  the  spring  of  1854  lie  was  once  more 
in  Cape  Town  on  the  way  to  Europe. 

Before  proceeding  to  tell  of  Andersson’s  second  expedition, 
it  may  be  well  to  mention  that  in  1856,  Mr.  Green,  the  famous 
elephant-hunter,  succeeded  in  reaching  Libebe  on  the  Teoge 
River,  but  was  not  able  to  stay  there  long  enough  to  make  any 
important  observations. 


In  185S,  Andersson  was  once  more  in  South  Africa  for  the 
purpose  of  pursuing  his  explorations ; and  in  the  spring  of  that 
year  started  from  Damara-land  with  a caravan  consisting  of 
wagons  and  riding-oxen,  sheep  and  goats  for  provisions,  a horse 
and  four  asses  for  riding,  and  a pack  of  dogs  for  hunting. 
His  principal  object  was  to  reach  the  Kunene  River,  and  if 
possible  to  explore  its  whole  course.  Leaving  Walfisch  Bay,  lie 
took  a northerly  course  which  would  have  taken  him  to  the 


ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  167 


westward  of  the  Ovambo  country.  In  a short  time  he  reached 
nil  extensive  plain  covered  with  those  dense  thorny  thickets  of 
which  lie  had  already  had  experience  on  his  journey  to  the 
Ovambos;  and  twenty-three  days  of  almost  incredible  labor 
were  required  to  cut  a way  through  them  for  the  wagons. 
Few  incidents  of  African  travel  illustrate  more  forcibly  the 
toil  which  the  explorer  must  undergo  and  the  patience  he 
must  exercise,  than  Andersson’s  brief  account  of  this  passage 
through  the  acacia  thickets.  He  estimates  that  for  every  900 
feet  or  distance,  170  bushes  were  cut  away,  each  bush  having 
four  tough  stems,  varying  in  thickness  from  the  size  of  a 
man’s  linger  to  that  of  his  leg.  On  an  average,  each  bush 
required  twelve  strokes  of  the  axe,  making  nearly  10,000 
strokes  to  the  mile  ; and  120  miles  were  thus  traversed  before 
he  reached  a forest  of  lofty  trees  clear  of  undergrowth. 

At  Otjidarnbi,  a place  where  there  were  live  springs,  An- 
dersson  came  upon  the  first  signs  of  human  life.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  an  extensive  table-land,  from  2,000  to 
4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  bounded  on  the  west  by 
a range  of  granite  mountains  near  the  coast,  about  500  miles  in 
length  and  running  north  and  south.  At  right  angles  with 
this  range,  a chain  of  sandstone  hills,  with  now  and  then  an 
isolated  granite  peak  from  1,000  to  3,000  feet  high,  crosses  the 
plain.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  for  the  most  part  bare 
and  stony,  or  covered  with  thickets  of  the  thorny  mimosa ; 
but  the  valleys  have  running  streams  during  the  rainy  season, 
which  during  the  dry  seasons  shrink  into  pools  or  marshy  spots, 
where  water  may  be  found  by  digging.  A few  Damaras  had 
settled  with  their  herds  in  some  of  these  valleys ; but  the  year 
before  Andersson’s  visit,  their  retreat  had  been  discovered  by 
the  Namaquas,  who  made  an  incursion  into  the  country  and 
carried  off  many  of  their  cattle.  This  made  them  suspicious 
of  all  strangers  coming  from  the  south,  and  on  the  approach 
of  Andersson’s  caravan  they  hid  themselves  in  the  neighboring 
thickets.  At  length  he  captured  a man  and  woman,  ana 
treated  them  so  liberally  that  the  natives  came  forth,  and  with 
their  aid  as  guides,  he  continued  his  journey  for  between  three 
and  four  hundred  miles  further.  Had  his  course  been  in  a 
straight  line,  this  would  have  taken  him  beyond  the  Kunene 
River ; but  it  was  not  yet  in  sight,  and,  in  the  entire  absence 
of  water,  he  was  obliged  to  turn  about  and  retrace  his  steps  as 
speedily  as  possible  to  the  nearest  mission-station. 

Here  he  devoted  himself  to  elephant-hunting,  in  order  to 
procure  ivory  to  replenish  his  exhausted  stores.  While  thus 


168  ANDERSSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


engaged  he  encountered  a large  caravan  of  Damaras,  on  their 
way  to  Ovambo-land  ostensibly  for  the  purpose  of  trading; 
but  he  noticed  among  them  several  subjects  or  Yonker  Afrika- 
ner, the  Namaqua  robber-chief,  and  rightly  surmised  that  they 
meant  to  spy  out  the  land  and  report  on  the  probable  success 
of  a plundering  expedition.  Toward  the  end  of  August,  An- 
dersson  set  out  for  the  Lake  Omanbond4,  which  had  so  griev- 
ously disappointed  him  and  Galton  on  their  first  expedition  in 
1850 ; but  he  now  found  a fine  sheet  of  water  four  or  five 
miles  in  circumference,  with  another  of  equal  size  near  it — 
the  shores  of  both  swarming  with  every  variety  of  game.  The 
elephants  came  in  immense  herds,  and  he  succeeded  in  killing 
a great  many  of  the  old  males,  which  furnish  the  largest  quan- 
tity of  ivory. 

In  a short  time  so  much  ivory  had  been  secured,  that  he  sent 
one  of  his  men  back  to  the  mission  with  a wagon-load ; he, 
meantime,  making  an  excursion  to  Tunobis.  When  he  had 
returned  to  the  lake,  he  again  encountered  the  Damara  caravan 
on  their  return  from  Ovambo-land,  which  they  had  been  pre- 
vented from  entering.  From  them  Andersson  procured  one  of 
the  chiefs  as  a guide,  and  on  the  5th  of  January ,T859,  started 
once  more  in  search  of  the  Ovambo  River,  supposed  to  be  a 
branch  of  the  Kunene.  Eleven  days  of  hard  travel  brought 
them  to  something  like  a river-bed,  stretching  away  to  the 
northward,  but  destitute  of  running  water.  Using  this  as  a 
road,  they  still  pushed  onward,  hoping  still  to  reach  the 
Ovambo,  little  suspecting  that  they  were  actually  travelling  in 
its  bed.  After  a time  its  direction  changed,  and  leaving  it 
they  again  struck  northward  ; but  the  terrible  thorny  jungles 
soon  drove  them  to  another  dry  water-course  extending  to  the 
west.  Following  this,  they  soon  found  themselves  on  the  dry, 
wraste  table-land  they  had  traversed  on  the  previous  expedition. 
Here  they  were  fortunate  enough  to  fall  in  with  a Bushman 
chief,  named  Kaganda,  who  offered  to  guide  them  provided  a 
whole  elephant  were  given  him  as  pay.  He  proved  to  be  an 
active,  intelligent  fellow,  who  not  only  knew  every  little  pool 
or  marshy  spot  in  the  whole  country,  but  imparted  to  them  a 
secret  which  proved  of  great  service ; viz.,  that  a large  tree, 
with  willow-like  leaves,  was  generally  hollow,  forming  a nat- 
ural cistern  in  which  rain-water  was  preserved  a long  time. 
Under  his  guidance,  the  caravan  pressed  on  through  a region 
swarming  with  elephants,  until  they  reached  a point  at  which 
a native  told  them  they  were  only  two  and  a half  days’  journey 
from  the  river.  Andersson  therefore  left  his  wagons  and 


ANDERSSON 'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  169 


heavy  baggage,  and  taking  half  of  his  men  with  him,  pushed 
northwards.  On  the  third  day  a mountain-chain  loomed  up 
on  the  horizon,  and  soon  afterwards  he  found  himself  on  the 
banks  of  a large  river  600  feet  wide.  It  did  not  seem  to  be 
any  of  the  streams  of  which  he  had  previously  heard  ; for  the 
Iumeno  unquestionably  flowed  to  the  west,  whereas  this  river, 
upon  whose  banks  lie  stood,  called  by  the  natives  the  Okavango , 
flowed  distinctly  eastward  into  the  heart  of  the  continent. 
Andersson  believed  it  to  be  a great  affluent  of  the  Zambesi ; 
and  guessed  that  the  point  at  which  he  reached  it  was  some- 
where between  lat.  17°  and  18°  S.  and  long.  17°  and  19°  E. 
from  Greenwich. 

The  tribe  living  on  the  river  is  called  Okavangari,  but  there 
were  no  settlements  on  the  right  bank  on  which  Andersson 
was,  and  it  was  only  after  several  hours’  negotiation  that  the 
natives  could  be  induced  to  bring  over  their  boats.  In  order 
to  make  arrangements  for  further  exploration  of  the  river, 
Andersson  resolved  to  visit  the  chief,  Chikongo,  who  resided 
farther  to  the  south  ; and  accordingly  hired  one  of  the  natives 
to  transport  him  thither  in  his  canoe.  The  native  seemed  to  con- 
sider the  voyage  as  designed  for  his  own  amusement ; for,  instead 
of  keeping  in  the  swifter  current,  he  paddled  slowly  along  the 
banks,  stopping  at  every  hut  to  show  the  astonished  people  the 
strange-looking  white  man.  Andersson  began  to  look  upon 
himself  almost  as  some  curious  animal ; but  his  guide’s  ma- 
noeuvres at  least  enabled  him  to  observe  the  natives  very  thor- 
oughly. Pie  describes  the  men  as  strong  and  well-built,  but 
the  women  were  the  ugliest  he  had  ever  seen  in  Africa.  The 
river  itself  and  the  landscapes  on  either  side,  were  beautiful. 
The  river-bottoms  were  covered  with  fields  of  grain,  and  fruit- 
trees  and  ranges  of  wooded  mountains  enclosed  the  prospect  on 
either  hand.  Hippopotami  and  water-fowl  were  abundant; 
and  crocodiles  sunned  themselves  on  the  islands  which  here 
and  there  rose  from  the  surface  of  the  stream. 

At  noon,  on  the  second  day  of  the  voyage,  Andersson  reached 
the  residence  of  Chikongo,  from  whom  he  received  a hearty 
welcome.  Pie  stayed  here  three  days,  and  learned  that  the 
Ovambo-land  lay  to  the  west,  and  the  tribe  of  Baviekos  to  the 
east,  whose  capital  is  the  town  of  Libebe,  on  the  Teoge  River, 
which  he  had  tried  to  reach  from  Lake  Ngami. 

lie  now  returned  to  the  wagons,  and  brought  the  whole  car- 
avan safely  to  the  Okavango  River,  preparatory  to  the  thorough 
exploration  of  the  river,  upon  which  he  had  determined.  But 
scarcely  had  the  party  reached  the  river-bottom,  when  Anders- 


170  AND  BESSON'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


son  and  five  or  six  others  were  prostrated  with  fever ; and  after 
waiting  an  entire  month  in  the  vain  hope  of  getting  better,  he 
was  obliged  to  turn  back  as  the  only  means  of  saving  his  life. 
The  return  journey  was  rendered  additionally  perilous,  because 
of  the  plains  of  grass  being  on  fire  in  many  places.  The  Da- 
maras  burn  off  the  old  grass  periodically,  in  order  to  hasten  the 
growth  of  fresh  pastures  for  their  herds  ; and  several  times  the 
caravan  narrowly  escaped  destruction.  Once,  indeed,  the  dan- 
ger was  so  near,  that  only  a sudden  change  of  the  wind  saved 
the  whole  party  from  death.  At  the  Ovambo  River,  Andersson 
met  Green,  who,  hearing  that  the  Ovambos  had  sent  out  a 
party  to  intercept  the  caravan  on  its  return,  had  collected  a 
small  body  of  men,  and  come  to  meet  and  assist  him. 

Andersson  now  went  to  Europe  and  published  his  work  on 
the  Okavango  River,  but  subsequently  returned  to  Africa,  and 
having  married  Miss  Aitchison,  of  Cape  Town,  settled  at  Otjim- 
bingue,  near  Ondongo,  and  devoted  himself  to  agriculture  and 
commerce.  During  the  war  with  the  Damaras  and  Rama- 
quas,  which  ended  in  the  subjection  of  the  Ovambos,  he  was 
frequently  despoiled,  and  finally  wounded  so  seriously  that  he 
had  to  be  taken  to  Cape  Town.  Barely  recovered,  he  set  out 
in  May,  1866,  on  an  expedition  to  the  Kunene,  with  a view  of 
establishing  commercial  intercourse  with  the  Portuguese  settle- 
ments north  of  that  river,  and  actually  came  in  sight  of  the 
long-sought  stream  ; but  too  feeble  to  cross  it,  he  had  to  retrace 
his  steps,  and  died  on  the  home  journey. 


CIIAPTER  IX. 


MAGYAR’S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

Between  the  years  1810  and  1856,  Laszlo  (Ladislaus)  Magyar, 
a native  of  Theresienstadt,  in  Hungary,  made  a series  of  jour- 
neys in  the  interior,  which  nearly  complete  our  knowledge  of 
the  region  lying  between  the  route  of  Livingstone,  from  the 
Zambesi  to  the  west  coast,  and  the  most  northern  points  reached 
by  Andersson. 

The  previous  career  of  Magyar  had  been  rather  chequered. 
Entering  the  Austrian  navy  in  1840,  he  served  during  several 
cruises,  but  left  the  service  in  South  America,  and  was  em- 
ployed by  the  Argentine  Confederation.  The  fleet  of  the  lat- 
ter power  having  been  destroyed  by  that  of  Uruguay,  he  went 
to  Brazil  for  a time,  and  in  1846  went  to  Africa  and  became 
commander  of  the  fleet  of  the  negr’o  ruler  of  old  Calabar.  In 
1848  his  health  was  seriously  impaired  by  the  deadly  coast- 
fever,  and  he  determined  to  go  to  San  Felipe  de  Benguela,  the 
most  southern  Portuguese  port  in  the  west  coast,  in  order  to 
settle  himself  in  the  healthier  inland  regions. 

Benguela  has  a climate  peculiarly  fatal  to  Europeans,  and 
Magyar  only  remained  there  long  enough  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  the  journey  he  had  resolved  upon  to  the  native  king- 
dom of  Bilie,  situated  on  the  elevated  table-lands  of  the  interior. 
This  inland  region  is  inhabited  by  a number  of  negro  tribes 
who  are  almost  constantly  at  war  with  each  other,  and  yet  ap- 
pear, from  their  language  and  habits,  to  be  of  the  same  stock. 
They  are  all  called  collectively  the  Kimbunda.  Their  country 
is  threaded  by  the  affluents  of  the  Coanza  River,  which  rises  in 
lat.  13°  S.  and  flows  northward  over  a table-land  6,000  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  to  about  lat.  9°,  where  it  turns  westward 
and  empties  into  the  Atlantic  near  St.  Paul  de  Loanda. 
The  land  rises  from  the  coast  in  successive  terraces,  each  of 
which  has  its  distinct  climate  and  productions. 

A large  caravan  was  just  ready  to  start  for  Bihe,  and  the 
leader  was  very  glad  to  accept  Magyar’s  application  to  join 
him,  the  presence  of  a European  being  considered  an  addi- 
tional protection.  Magyar  accordingly  engaged  an  interpreter, 


172  MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


three  slaves  for  personal  servants,  six  hammock-bearers,  and  a 
kissongo , or  body-guard — a man  whose  special  duty  it  was  to 
watch  over  his  property,  and  defend  him  in  case  of  danger. 
He  also  provided  himself  with  proper  goods  for  trade  with" the 
natives. 

On  the  15th  of  January,  1849,  everything  being  in  readiness, 
the  caravan  left  Benguela  and  started  for  the  nearest  range  of 
mountains.  The  belt  of  lowlands  along  the  coast  is  sandy,  arid, 
and  intensely  hot.  The  tribe  nearest  Benguela  is  called  the 
Mundombe  ; the}7  are  a strong  and  fine-looking  race,  but  repul- 
sive in  their  habits.  Instead  of  bathing,  they  rub  their  bodies 
every  third  day  with  fat  or  butter,  and  soak  their  single  cotton 
garment  in  the  same,  so  that  it  clings  in  greasy  folds  to  their 
bodies.  They  live  in  huts  but  two  or  three  feet  high,  built  of 
sticks  and  mud,  and  always  filled  with  smoke  from  the  fires 
which  they  keep  up  even  in  summer.  They  raise  cattle,  and 
also  cultivate  maize,  manioc,  and  beans. 

The  method  of  transport  by  caravan  is  of  the  most  primi- 
tive description.  Goods  of  all  kinds  are  slung  to  poles,  which 
are  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  the  porters.  Travellers  are 
obliged  to  lie  in  a hammock  which  is  also  suspended  from  a 
long  pole  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  two  men  ; but  the  prog- 
ress of  the  caravan,  especially  in  marshy  districts,  forests,  or 
passes  of  the  mountains,  is  excessively  slow  and  difficult,  and 
just  where  the  road  is  worst  the  traveller  is  compelled  to  walk. 

In  the  lowland  region,  first  traversed,  there  were  no  signs  of 
vegetable  life,  except  here  and  there  some  leafless  thorn-bushes 
and  tufts  of  dried  grass ; but  as  the  elevation  above  the  sea  in- 
creased, trees  began  to  appear,  and  the  banks  of  the  Katumbele 
Biver  beyond  the  first  range  of  hills,  were  covered  with  a dense 
tropical  forest.  This  stream  was  crossed  by  means  of  bamboo 
rafts  ; and  a short  distance  beyond  they  reached  the  first  or  coast 
range  of  mountains — a series  of  black,  volcanic  peaks,  destitute 
of  vegetation  except  occasional  thickets  of  thorns  and  aloes. 
The  route  of  the  caravan  lay  along  the  perilous  verge  of  pre- 
cipitous abysses,  where  the  loose  stones  and  pebbles  frequently 
give  way  under  the  feet  of  the  porters,  who  were  obliged  to 
march  in  single  file.  The  bleached  bones  of  men  at  the  bot- 
toms of  the  chasms  gave  ghastly  evidence  of  the  dangers  of  the 
road.  Nor  were  these  the  only  dangers  to  which  the  travellers 
were  exposed.  Now  and  then,  amon^  the  towering  cliffs  above 
them,  they  saw  the  forms  of  the  wild,  predatory  tribes  of  the 
hills,  apparently  mustering  their  forces  and  deliberating 
whether  an  attack  might  be  ventured.  Magyar  describes  him- 


MAGYAR’S  ASCENT  OF  THE  COAST  RANGE. 


MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  173 


self  as  so  impressed  by  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery  on  this 
coast  range,  and  so  refreshed  by  the  purer  atmosphere  of  the 
mountains,  that  he  began  almost  immediately  to  recover  his 
health  and  strength.  In  the  higher  regions  he  discovered  two 
cataracts,  one  of  which,  called  Kahi,  is  of  an  unusual  character. 
The  river  here  slides  down  the  face  of  a rock  having  an  angle 
of  about  eighty  degrees,  for  a distance  of  about  150  feet,  is  then 
dashed  into  foam  on  a transverse  edge,  and  at  last  falls  150 
feet  further  into  a dark  chasm,  with  a roar  which  may  be 
heard  several  miles.  He  also  saw  an  active  volcano — an  iso- 
lated cone,  rising  high  above  the  other  mountains,  and  discharg- 
ing low  jets  of  steam  and  flame  at  regular  intervals.  The  na- 
tives believe  that  the  crater  is  the  abode  of  the  spirits  of  their 
dead,  and  never  dare  to  approach  the  mountains. 

As  the  caravan  advanced  farther  into  the  interior,  the  tropi- 
cal rains  increased.  The  evenings  were  generally  cool  and 
clear ; but  every  afternoon  the  clouds  gathered  in  dense  masses, 
terrific  thunder-storms  swept  round  the  peaks,  and  rain,  mixed 
with  hail,  poured  down  in  torrents.  When  the  Kissangi-land, 
which  is  fertile  and  populous,  was  reached,  temporary  huts  were 
erected  as  a protection  from  the  rains  every  evening ; and  these 
were  surrounded  with  a kind  of  rude  fortification  as  a defence 
against  the  natives,  who  build  their  villages  on  heights  wdiich 
are  almost  inaccessible,  and  are  inveterate  robbers. 

Here  Magyar,  at  the  request  of  the  members,  assumed  the 
command  of  the  caravan.  His  principal  duty,  next  to  direct- 
ing the  daily  marches  and  looking  after  the  goods,  was  to  settle 
the  claims  of  the  various  chiefs  of  the  villages  passed  through ; 
and  this  gave  him  many  curious  adventures.  In  one  instance 
the  leader  of  a band  of  the  Bailunda  tribe,  from  whom  Hostili- 
ties were  apprehended,  contented  himself  with  a moderate  pres- 
ent of  brandy,  powder,  and  flints  ; with  the  condition,  however, 
that  the  white  man  should  bring  him  the  articles  in  person.  He 
sent  two  women  as  hostages,  and  Magyar,  though  not  fully 
trusting  the  leader’s  word,  felt  bound  to  comply.  He  found 
the  camp  regularly  divided  into  four  quarters,  with  the  com- 
mander’s tent  in  the  centre,  distinguished  by  a red  flag.  The 
commander  was  a son-in-law  of  the  king,  and  was  a tall,  strong, 
and  rather  handsome  man.  He  was  surrounded  by  his  guards, 
interpreters,  and  servants.  He  first  addressed  his  troops,  the 
musicians  accompanying  his  words  with  the  sound  of  their  in- 
struments ; then,  turning  to  Magyar,  he  clapped  his  hands  and 
thrice  gave  the  salutation : “ Peace  be  with  you ! ” He  de- 
clared that  his  officers  had  wished  to  attack  the  caravan,  but  he 


174  MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

had  forbidden  it,  on  account  of  his  friendship  for  the  white 
man.  While  the  troops  were  drinking  the  beer  furnished  for 
the  occasion,  and  indulging  in  their  savage  dances,  Magyar 
slipped  away  and  returned  to  the  caravan.  His  men  were 
afraid  lest  the  Bailunda  should  attack  them  in  spite  of  their 
leader’s  prohibition ; and  as  the  natives  usually  make  such  at- 
tacks in  the  early  morning,  the  caravan  was  set  in  motion  shortly 
after  nightfall,  marched  unperceived  pa^st  the  Bailunda  camp, 
and  by  morning  was  at  a safe  distance. 

After  leaving  the  Kissangi-land  they  reached  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Kubale  Biver ; and  beyond  this  again  an  elevated 
and  extensive  table-land  stretching  away  to  the  foot  of  the 
Lingi-Lingi  mountains.  Yast  herds  of  antelopes,  zebras,  and 
buffaloes  grazed  on  the  rich  pasturage  of  these  plains,  and  the 
natives  laid  down  their  packs  and  set  out  on  a hunt.  Magyar 
accompanied  them,  but  was  so  alarmed  at  the  sight  of  the  buf- 
faloes that  he  climbed  to  the  top  of  a huge  ant-hill.  When  the 
ffrst  beast  stormed  past,  his  nervous  excitement  was  such  that 
he  could  not  pull  the  trigger  ; he  threw  away  his  flint  and  pre- 
tended to  have  lost  it,  lest  the  natives,  who  had  succeeded  in 
killing  seven  of  the  animals,  should  detect  his  lack  of  coolness 
necessary  for  a hunter. 

The  scenery  of  the  Lingi-Lingi  mountains  is  even  more  grand 
and  various  than  that  of  the  coast  range.  Part  of  the  time  the 
path  led  through  thick  forests,  again  it  wound  in  zigzags  around 
peaks  of  naked  rock,  and  frequently  along  the  verge  of  im- 
mense chasms  from  which  the  noise  of  cataracts  resounded.  At 
the  summit,  which  is  about  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
commenced  another  lofty  table-land,  stretching  away  eastward 
to  the  foot  of  the  Djamba  mountains.  Scaling  these,  the  cara- 
van continued  its  journey  across  the  high  table-land  of  Sambos, 
which  is  about  6,000  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  plains  here- 
abouts are  dotted  with  little  hills  upon  which  the  natives  build 
their  villages,  which  are  studded  with  groups  of  trees  resembling 
the  sycamore.  Towards  the  end  of  their  journey,  they  ex- 
perienced a hail-storm  so  severe  that  the  ground  was  covered 
with  a crust  of  ice.  Just  before  reaching  the  frontiers  of  Bihe, 
messengers  were  sent  forward  to  announce  their  coming,  so  that 
the  women  could  brew  maize -beer  and  even  cany  it  to  meet 
them  on  the  last  stage  of  the  march.  As  soon  as  they  had  ac- 
tually entered  the  kiugdom  the  large  company  began  to  break 
up  and  scatter  towards  their  different  homes;  and  here  Magyar 
had  an  example  of  the  pride  of  the  natives.  Nearly  all  his  ser- 
vants and  porters  deserted  him,  because  they  were  ashamed  to 


MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  175 


appear  before  their  families  in  that  character ; only  the  Icissongo 
and  his  relatives  remained  faithful,  for  they  regarded  the  white 
man  as  their  guest,  and  had  instructed  their  families  to  prepare 
for  his  reception.  Two  or  three  days  after  crossing  the  frontier, 
they  arrived  at  their  home,  and  Magyar  received  a hearty  wel- 
come. After  the  first  salutations  were  over,  one  of  the  porters 
commenced  a recital  of  everything  that  had  occurred  during  his 
absence  of  116  days,  not  omitting  the  smallest  incident! 

Magyar’s  chief  object  being  to  establish  his  residence  inBihe 
as  a base  for  further  explorations,  his  first  care  was  to  send  a 
messenger  with  presents  to  the  king,  asking  his  permission  to 
build  a house.  The  answer  came  in  five  days ; the  king  sent  a 
friendly  greeting,  and  gave  his  permission,  but  added  the  re- 
quest that  the  stranger  should  pay  him  a formal  visit  as  soon  as 
he  had  completed  his  dwelling.  Magyar  was  now  at  liberty  to 
take  any  piece  of  land  which  had  not  been  already  claimed  and 
occupied  by  some  one  else.  The  country  around  the  home  of 
his  kissongo  was  so  attractive  that  his  only  difficulty  was  what 
point  to  select.  lie  finally  made  choice  of  a beautiful  little 
valley,  with  a clear,  swift  rivulet  in  its  bed.  Forests  and  mead- 
ows alternated  in  the  landscape,  and  every  hill  in  the  distance 
was  crowned  with  a native  village.  The  character  of  the  scen- 
ery was  so  charming  that  he  declared  to  his  attendants  that  he 
would  fix  his  residence  there.  To  his  great  annoyance,  the  latter 
informed  him  that  a notorious  wizard  had  been  executed  on  the 
spot,  a year  before,  and  since  then  the  evil  spirits  had  taken  pos- 
session of  the  whole  neighborhood.  Foreseeing  that  the  natives 
wrould  resist  his  attempts  to  settle  there,  Magyar  had  recourse 
to  one  of  their  exorcising  priests,  to  whom  he  presented  a fat 
hog  and  several  yards  of  cotton  cloth,  begging  him  to  drive  away 
the  hateful  spirits.  The  priest  slaughtered  a goat,  marked  sev- 
eral hieroglyphics  with  its  blood  on  Magyar’s  arm  and  breast, 
blew  three  blasts  through  the  horn  of  a gazelle,  and  the  evil 
• spirits  immediately  fled  from  the  beautiful  valley,  leaving  it 
free  to  human  habitation. 

In  order  to  assure  himself  of  the  proper  respect  and  consid- 
eration, Magyar  learned  that  it  was  necessary  for  him  to  build 
a large  dwelling-house,  and  to  employ  at  least  fifty  slaves  or 
servants.  For  twenty  yards  of  cotton-cloth  apiece,  he  purchased 
as  many  of  these  as  he  required,  and  the  additional  applicants 
were  so  numerous  that  he  was  finally  obliged  to  keep  them 
forcibly  at  a distance.  Nor  is  it  more  difficult  to  support  such 
a retinue  than  to  obtain  them.  The  cultivation  of  the  soil  is  car- 
ried on  exclusively  by  the  women,  while  the  men  build,  hunt, 


176  MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


and  fish.  The  married  slaves  are  obliged  to  help  support  the 
unmarried,  as  well  as  to  furnish  food  for  the  master.  The  lat- 
ter is  only  expected  to  clothe  his  slaves  with  a single  narrow  gar- 
ment, and  give  them  a few  yards  of  cloth  twice  a year. 

In  the  material  and  construction  of  his  house,  Magyar  imi- 
tated the  huts  of  the  people,  except  that  his  was  square  instead 
of  circular  in  form.  The  walls  were  of  strong  palisades,  plas- 
tered with  clay  and  whitewashed,  so  that  the  residence  had  a 
semi-civilized  aspect.  Around  this  was  a palisade.  Outside  of 
all  was  a large  stockade  made  of  posts  of  iron- work,  with  loop- 
holes for  musketry  ; and  between  this  and  the  inner  inclosure 
were  the  slave-quarters  and  store-houses.  As  soon  as  these 
structures  were  completed  Magyar  started  on  his  visit  to  the 
king  of  Bihe,  whose  capital  lay  about  two  days5  journej  farther 
into  the  interior.  It  is  called  Kombala,  and  is  built  on  the 
summit  of  a high  hill,  shadowed  by  immense  trees.  A narrow 
path  led  up  the  steep  and  stony  path  to  the  gate  of  the  town ; 
within  this  was  a large  grassy  square,  surrounded  with  trees, 
beyond  which  stood  the  dirty  streets  and  miserable  huts  crowded 
with  a curious  multitude  or  people,  who,  however,  were  more 
carefully  dressed  and  more  refined  in  manner  than  those  of  the 
villages. 

The  king  could  not  receive  him  on  the  day  of  his  arrival, 
but  a comfortable  hut  and  abundance  of  provisions  were  pro- 
vided for  his  use.  Betimes  next  morning  an  officer  of  the 
court  came  to  conduct  him  to  the  palace,  which  he  found  to 
be  an  extensive  labyrinth  of  buildings  surrounded  by  a high 
palisade.  Human  heads,  some  bleached  to  the  bone,  and  others 
fresh  as  if  just  placed  there,  hung  upon  the  outer  gate.  Pass- 
ing through  this,  Magyar  was  conducted  along  many  winding 
ways  to  a door  in  an  interior  palisade  wall,  and  through  this 
he  entered  the  royal  court-yard.  He  had  to  wait  here  upwards 
of  half  an  hour  before  the  sound  of  bells  announced  the  ap- 
proach of  the  king,  who,  on  entering,  took  a seat  on  a sort  of 
throne,  over  which  a lion’s  skin  was  suspended,  while  a page 
knelt  at  his  feet,  and  a servant  with  a quagga’s  tail  to  fan  him 
w'tli  stood  behind  him.  On  either  side  the  warriors  and  cour- 
tiers, each  with  his  hair  twilled  into  the  shape  of  a helmet, 
arranged  themselves  in  rows — the  warriors  armed  with  long 

funs,  clubs,  and  lances.  When  the  king  had  taken  his  seat, 
e turned  to  Magyar,  who  had  also  seated  himself  on  a camp- 
stool,  and  saluted  him  thrice  with  the  usual  formula : “ Peace 
be  with  you ! ” the  latter  answering  as  he  had  been  instructed : 
“ Also  with  you,  princely  father ! ” while  the  courtiers  shouted 


MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  177 


in  chorus,  “ Hail,  mighty  Lion ! raging  Lion  ! ” Then  the 
Kistioiifjo  who  had  accompanied  Magyar  related  all  the  inci- 
dents of  the  journey,  and  explained  his  master’s  wish  to  make 
his  homo  in  Bilie,  and  to  visit  the  other  tribes  of  the  interior. 
As  every  word  had  to  be  repeated  to  the  king  by  one  of  his 
own  officers,  notwithstanding  that  it  was  made  in  the  language 
of  the  country,  this  statement  lasted  half  an  hour;  and  during 
this  time  Magyar  had  ample  opportunity  to  study  the  king’s 
personal  appearance.  lie  was  apparently  about  fifty  years  of 
age,  tall  and  lean  of  figure,  and  with  tolerably  regular  features 
which  would  have  been  agreeable  but  for  his  keen  and  crafty 
look.  He  wore  a kind  of  turban  about  his  head,  a wide  blue 
robe,  and  a gayly  striped  shawl  over  his  shoulders.  In  his 
hand  he  held  a small  dagger,  and  the  clawrs  of  a lion,  set  in 
gold,  worn  as  a talisman,  probably,  hung  on  his  breast. 

The  “ raging  Lion  ” listened  patiently  to  the  Kissongo’s  ad- 
dress, and  at  the  end  expressed  his  satisfaction.  His  answer 
was : u You  have  honored  me,  white  man,  with  the  confidence 
you  have  placed  in  me,  in  giving  up  the  comforts  which  you 
enjoyed  at  home,  among  your  own  people,  and  coming  here  to 
settle  among  us.  Therefore,  be  welcome  ! I take  you  under 
my  protection,  and  woe  to  them  who  should  dare  to  injure 
your  person  or  your  property ! I grant  to  you  the  right  of 
hospitality  which  has  been  given  by  our  ancestors,  and  my 
people  must  know  and  respect  it.”  All  the  principal  chiefs 
repeated  their  former  salutation,  in  token  of  acceptance,  and 
thus  Magyar  became  an  honorary  citizen  of  Bihe. 

Much  to  his  surprise,  the  king  returned  Magyar’s  visit  on 
the  evening  of  the  same  day,  and  privately  acquainted  him 
with  his  intention  of  undertaking  an  expedition  against  a 
neighboring  tribe.  He  insisted  that  Magyar  should  accompany 
the  expedition  ; and  as  the  latter  did  not  think  it  politic  to  re- 
fuse, he  agreed  temporarily,  hoping  that  some  means  of  escape 
from  the  unwelcome  obligation  would  be  found  before  the 
time  for  redeeming  it  should  come  round.  As  in  the  case  of 
the  haunted  valley  which  he  desired  for  a residence,  so  in  this 
new  dilemma  also,  Magyar  procured  his  release  by  an  adroit 
use  of  the  native  superstitions.  As  the  time  for  the  expedition 
drew  near,  he  complained  of  pains  in  the  body  and  bad  dreams, 
which  the  wizards  declared  'were  caused  by  evil  spirits.  lie 
then  explained  to  them  that  his  participation  in  the  foray  was 
forbidden  by  the  laws  of  his  land,  and  that  this  was  probably 
a punishment  sent  upon  him  for  his  intended  violation  of  them. 
After  a careful  examination  of  his  person,  the  magicians  re- 
12 


173  MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

tired  into  the  forest  to  consult.  Their  final  conclusion  was 
that  an  evil  spirit  had  entered  into  Magyar’s  bod}r,  and  would 
certainly  kill  him  if  ho  accompanied  the  expedition  ; but  this 
spirit  could  be  exorcised  by  slaughtering  an  ox,  and  sending 
presents  to  the  king.  An  ox  was  accordingly  killed,  certain 
figures  were  painted  with  the  blood  on  Magyar’s  forehead, 
breast,  and  arms,  and  a piece  of  cotton  with  the  same  marks 
was  forwarded  to  the  king,  accompanied  by  a present  consist- 
ing of  a keg  of  powder  and  several  bottles  of  brandy.  The 
cure  was  effectual.  The  evil  spirit  departed ; the  king  absolved 
the  stranger  from  his  promise ; and,  as  a further  evidence  of 
favor,  sent  him  his  daughter,  the  Princess  Osoro,  as  a wife. 

The  Princess  wras  fourteen  years  old,  tall  and  slender,  and 
with  as  much  grace  and  amiability  as  could  be  expected  of  a 
king’s  daughter;  and  as  an  unmarried  man  always  excites 
suspicion  and  distrust  among  the  African  tribes,  and  the  secur- 
ity of  his  residence  among  the  people  would  be  assured  by 
such  an  alliance,  Magyar  determined  to  acquiesce  in  the  ar- 
rangement. She  came  to  him  under  the  escort  of  two  of  her 
brothers,  and  followed  by  a numerous  retinue  of  slaves,  and 
the  wedding  was  immediately  celebrated  according  to  the 
native  usage.  Magyar  seems  never  to  have  regretted  his  com- 
pliance. It  greatly  strengthened  his  position ; and  the  Prin- 
cess adapted  herself  to  his  habits,  managed  his  household  well, 
and  became  the  mother  of  several  children,  one  of  whom  was 
one  of  the  prospective  heirs  to  the  throne  of  Bihe.  This  lat- 
ter circumstance  Magyar  confesses  afforded  him  much  gratifi- 
cation. 

He  now  settled  down  to  the  cultivation  of  his  fields,  observ- 
ing meanwhile  the  character  and  habits  of  the  people  with 
whom  he  had  taken  up  his  residence.  The  Kimbundas,  as  the 
inhabitants  of  Bihe  are  called,  are  decidedly  more  advanced 
than  most  of  the  South  African  tribes.  They  have  a fixed  resi- 
dence, a settled  form  of  government  which  enforces  something 
like  law,  and  if  not  industrious,  they  know  how  to  avail  them- 
selves of  the  natural  advantages  of  their  land.  Their  domestic 
a iimals  are  cattle, sheep,  pigs,  and  poultry;  and  they  add  to 
their  stock  of  meat  by  great  half-yearly  hunts,  when  the  men 
of  the  tribes  assemble,  surround  a district  of  country,  and 
slaughter  all  the  game  that  is  caught  in  their  toils.  They 
have  some  skill  in  fishing,  but  do  not  know  how  to  make  nets. 
The  men  also  do  some  very  creditable  work  as  blacksmiths ; 
but  this  seems  the  only  direction  in  which  their  mechanical 
capabilities  have  been  exercised.  The  women,  as  we  have  said, 


MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  179 


perform  all  the  work  of  cultivating  the  soil;  and  this  lias  had 
a curious  effect  upon  their  family  life.  As  soon  as  a young 
man  is  able  to  purchase  a wife,  he  marries,  in  order  that  he 
may  have  some  one  to  cultivate  his  fields,  and  his  ambition  of 
course  is  to  have  as  many  wives  as  possible,  since  the  more  he 
has  the  better  is  his  chance  of  being  supported  in  idleness  and 
luxury.  The  women,  on  their  part,  also  favor  polygamy,  on 
the  principle  that  many  hands  make  light  work.  The  people 
believe  that  the  purity  of  blood  is  transmitted  through  the 
woman,  not  through  the  man.  For  this  reason  when  a male 
slave  marries  a free  woman,  his  children  are  free.  No  hus- 
band has  any  authority  whatever  over  his  own  children ; this 
belongs  to  the  eldest  brother  of  the  mother,  who  may  do  what 
he  pleases  with  them — even  sell  them  as  slaves.  Divorces  are 
easy,  but  the  right  is  exercised  more  frequently  by  the  women 
than  by  the  men.  Both  sexes  are  very  fond  of  the  rude  music 
of  their  native  instruments,  to  the  sound  of  which  they  dance 
nearly  every  evening.  The  men  spend  the  day,  when  not  en- 
gaged in  some  of  their  special  pursuits,  in  lying  full  length  on 
the  ground,  smoking  and  gossiping. 

At  length  Magyar  began  to  think  of  carrying  out  his  inten- 
tion of  penetrating  farther  into  the  interior.  During  the  whole 
period  of  his  residence  in  Bilie  he  had  heard  of  a country 
called  Molnwa,  lying  far  to  the  north-east,  in  a temperate  high- 
land region,  full  of  forests  in  which  roamed  numerous  herds 
of  elephants.  As  ivory  is  the  principal  article  of  commerce 
with  the  Kimbundus,  and  as  there  are  no  elephants  in  Bihe,  he 
found  no  difficulty  in  getting  together  a large  caravan  for  a 
journey  to  the  Moluwa  country,  where  the  commodity  was  pre- 
sumably plentiful.  Not  less  than  400  persons  volunteered  to 
accompany  him,  among  them  a considerable  number  of  the 
best  warriors  and  elephant-hunters.  The  king’s  permission  was 
obtained,  although  he  had  been  informed  that  the  Princess 
Osoro  would  acompany  her  husband,  and  that  their  absence 
would  probably  be  prolonged. 

Early  in  May,  1850,  the  caravan  set  out,  following  the  old 
native  footpaths  which  led  eastward  toward  the  Coanza  River. 
The  first  district  cast  of  Bihe  is  called  Kimbandi,  a hilly, 
fertile  country,  watered  by  numerous  affluents  of  the  Coanza, 
and  covered  during  the  rainy  season  with  pools  aud  lakes 
which  become  marshes  in  the  dry  months.  The  Kimbandi  are 
not  hostile  to  travellers,  but  they  are  thievish  and  treacherous, 
and  Magyar  was  relieved  when  their  territory  was  left  behind. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  great  forests  of  the  Olow- 


180  MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


ihenda,  wdiieh  forms  the  dividing  belt  between  the  western  and 
the  central  regions  of  the  continent.  These  forests  cover  a 
mountain  range  which  stretches  north  and  south  through 
several  degrees  of  latitude.  At  its  northern  extremity,  where 
Livingstone  crossed  it  on  his  journey  from  Linyanti  to  St.  Paul 
de  Luanda,  their  breadth  is  eight  days’  journey  ; but  they  are 
so  much  more  extensive  farther  south  that  Magyar’s  caravan 
consumed  sixteen  days  in  passing  through.  On  account  of  the 
streams  and  morasses  which  vary  the  monotony  of  the  dense 
woods,  beasts  of  burden  cannot  be  used,  and  all  goods  must 
be  transported  across  on  the  shoulders  of  men.  Wild  animals 
are  very  numerous,  including  the  lion,  the  elephant,  and  the 
rhinoceros.  But  the  animal  most  feared  is  the  buffalo.  Mag- 
yar says  that  during  his  many  journeys  he  lost  only  two  of  his 
men  from  lions,  but  a large  number  from  the  attacks  of  buffa- 
loes. If  the  first  shot  is  not  fatal,  and  the  hunter  does  not 
succeed  in  instantly  reaching  a place  of  safety,  he  is  inevitably 
tossed  into  the  air  and  then  stamped  to  death  by  the  sharp 
hoofs  of  the  enraged  beast. 

In  this  wilderness  were  also  encountered  a peculiar  race  of 
human  beings,  called  Mu-Kanlmla , whom  Magyar  describes 
as  the  most  miserable  creatures  he  had  ever  beheld.  “ They 
are  not  more  than  four  feet  in  height,  of  a rusty  yellow  color, 
and  with  features  which  seem  a caricature  of  the  human  face. 
Their  legs  are  very  thin ; the  round,  protruding  abdomen  takes 
up  one-third  of  the  body ; the  lean  neck  supports  a large  head, 
with  a perfectly  flat  face,  in  which  wide  mouth  and  nostrils 
and  small  twinkling  eyes  are  inserted.  Their  ears  are  like 
flaps,  and  their  hair  is  very  short  and  woolly.”  They  seem  to 
be  a peaceable  people,  and  unusually  honest  in  their  intercourse 
with  strangers.  They  brought  ivory,  honey,  wax,  and  dried 
meat  to  the  caravan,  and  exchanged  these  articles  for  tobacco 
and  glass  beads.  These  poor  people  are  hunted  like  wild 
beasts  by  the  neighboring  tribes,  and  such  as  are  captured  are 
sold  as  slaves;  some  of  the  latter,  whom  Magyar  bought, 
served  him  most  faithfully,  and  did  not  leave  him  even  while 
passing  through  their  own  country. 

After  crossing  the  Olowihenda  forests,  the  caravan  entered 
upon  a mountainous  region,  inhabited  by  the  Chiboque,  who, 
it  will  be  remembered,  gave  Livingstone  so  much  trouble  when 
he  passed  through  a portion  of  their  territory  on  his  way  to  the 
west  coast.  Magyar  compares  the  region  to  Switzerland.  The 
mountains  are  mostly  isolated  conical  peaks,  between  which  lie 
deep  and  fertile  valleys  inhabited  by  a dense  population.  The 


MOLTJWA  WAR-DANCE. 


MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  181 


villages  generally  contain  about  a thousand  inhabitants ; they 
are  simply  collections  of  straw  lints,  clustered  together  in  the 
forests,  and  each  one  is  called  by  the  name  of  its  chief.  The 
people  raise  sorghum,  maize,  beans,  and  tobacco,  and  are  much 
better  mechanics  than  the  Kimbundas.  Game  abounds  in  the 
forests.  The  climate  is  so  cool  that  in  July — which  is  mid- 
winter there — Magyar  sometimes  found  that  vessels  of  water 
were  covered  with  a thin  coating  of  ice  in  the  early  morning, 
while  the  ground  was  more  than  once  white  with  frost. 

Occupying  the  eastern  portion  of  the  Chiboque  country, 
there  is  an  immense  marsh  which  stretches  to  the  Kasai  Kiver. 
Here  commences  the  Moluwa  kingdom  (which  seems  to  be 
identical  with  Cazembe  or  Londa.)  which  Magyar  declares  to 
be  the  most  powerful  in  Central  Africa.  Kabebo,  the  capital, 
has  a population  of  about  50,000 ; but  as  every  house  stands 
within  its  own  separate  enclosure,  it  covers  an  area  of  eight  or 
ten  square  miles.  It  is  built  on  an  undulating  plain,  falling 
away  toward  the  cast.  Streams  of  fresh  water  flow  through 
the  streets,  which  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  and  shaded  with 
rows  of  large  trees.  There  are  several  spacious  market-places, 
which  are  always  crowded  when  a caravan  arrives  from  the 
coast  with  European  goods.  The  houses  are  one  story  high ; 
those  of  the  king  and  princes  are  larger  and  loftier,  but  none 
of  them  have  two  stories.  The  king  (sometimes  called  the 
Muata-janvo)  is  treated  with  more  than  human  reverence. 
His  subjects  do  not  dare  to  approach  him  except  creeping  on 
all  fours,  and  casting  handfuls  of  earth  upon  their  heads.  His 
power  over  their  lives  and  property  is  absolute,  and  is  often 
cruelly  exercised  ; but  none  of  the  people  venture  to  disobey 
his  commands  except  in  the  remote  provinces. 

Magyar  was  unable  to  ascertain  the  exact  boundaries  of  the 
kingdom,  but  conjectured  that  it  reached  to  lat.  40  N. — a 
length  of  nearly  1,200  miles  with  a breadth  from  east  to  west 
of  about  400.  The  population  is  sparse,  however,  and  does 
not  amount  in  the  aggregate  probably  to  more  than  a million. 
In  the  districts  to  the  north-east  the  villages  are  large  and 
near  together,  but  there  are  other  parts  of  tnc  country  where 
the  traveller  finds  no  settlement  in  a day’s  journey.  The 
villages  are  generally  built  in  the  forests,  but  each  is  sur- 
rounded with  its  belt  of  cultivated  land.  Towards  the  east  the 
forests  disappear,  and  the  country  sinks  into  vast  grassy  plains, 
which  sometimes  become  lakes  in  the  rainy  season. 

Magyar  resided  more  than  a year  among  the  Moluwa  people, 
and  he  regards  them  as  surpassing  in  intellectual  capacity  all 


182  MAGYAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 


the  other  native  African  races.  They  have  a tolerably  well 
organized  social  system,  based  upon  certain  traditions  of  their 
race,  and  are  usually  friendly  and  polite  in  their  intercourse 
w’ith  strangers.  On  the  other  hand,  the  grossest  forms  of 
superstition  obtain  among  them,  and  still,  on  certain  occasions, 
they  offer  up  human  sacrifices.  Their  land  is  for  the  most  part 
fertile,  and  they  raise  immense  quantities  of  fruit,  including 
pine-apples  and  bananas.  They  also  cultivate  sugar-cane  and 
the  oil-bearing  palm.  Their  chief  article  of  commerce  is  ivory ; 
and  in  the  northern  and  eastern  parts  of  the  kingdom  there 
are  immense  forests  full  of  herds  of  elephants,  whose  tusks 
often  weigh  120  pounds  each.  The  price  of  these  is  kept  up  by 
the  competition  of  the  Portuguese  from  the  western  and  the 
Arab  merchants  from  the  eastern  coast.  Strings  of  cowries 
and  white  beads  arc  used  as  money  ; also  coils  of  copper  wire 
which  the  natives  melt  from  malachite.  They  have  iron,  too, 
of  excellent  quality,  from  which  they  forge  swords  and  lances. 


SNAKE  HUNT  IN  THE  DILOLO  SWAMPS. 


In  the  year  1851,  Magyar  collected  his  caravan  and  set  out 
on  his  return  to  Bihe,  taking  a more  southern  route  which  led 


MAO  TAR'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  183 


him  through  the  district  called  Lobal,  and  across  the  upper  end 
of  the  Zambesi  valley,  although  he  was  not  aware  of  the  fact. 
Indeed  he  actually  passed  over  a small  portion  of  the  route 
afterwards  traversed  by  Livingstone,  skirting  Lake  Dilolo, 
and,  like  the  latter  traveller,  leading  his  caravan  through  the 
marshes  which  surround  it.  In  these  marshes  there  are  great 
snakes  which  arc  often  found  in  companies  of  a dozen  or  more, 
coiled  together  in  the  grass.  Ilis  followers  did  not  show  the 
least  fear  of  the  reptiles,  but  attacked  them  eagerly,  and 
afterwards  roasted  and  ate  them  fresh  as  a great  delicacy. 

The  year  after  his  return  from  the  Moluwa  kingdom,  Mag- 
yar made  a journey  to  the  country  of  the  Kilengues,  lying 
farther  to  the  south ; and  in  1853  he  claims  to  have  reached 
the  Kunene  River,  which  was  sought  for  so  persistently  by 
Andersson  and  Green,  and  to  have  explored  a considerable  por- 
tion of  its  course.  On  his  return  from  this  southern  journey, 
his  caravan  was. attacked  in  the  forests  of  Lusseke,  but  after  a 
long  fight  the  enemy  were  driven  off  with  considerable  loss. 
In  1855  he  crossed  the  Olowihenda  forests  a second  time,  and 
reached  the  country  of  Lobal ; but  how  far  his  explorations  ex- 
tended we  have  no  means  of  knowing.  On  his  return  he  was 
again  attacked  by  a large  body  of  the  natives,  and  only  succeeded 
in  repulsing  them  after  a hard  fight  which  lasted  several  hours. 
In  1856,  he  made  a visit  to  Benguela,  and  the  next  year  was 
appointed  governor  of  one  of  the  Portuguese  inland  posts. 

It  is  greatly  to  be  regretted  that  Magyar  was  unable  to  de- 
termine the  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  various  points  which 
he  reached,  and  that  his  geographical  notes  are  so  brief  and 
confusing.  His  travels  fill  much  of  the  space  between  the 
regions  explored  by  Livingstone  and  Lake  Tanganyika ; and 
if  he  had  only  been  as  careful  in  recording  the  results  of  his 
explorations  as  he  was  energetic  in  planning,  and  courageous 
in  carrying  them  out,  some  of  the  most  important  of  remain- 
ing geographical  problems  would  probably  have  been  solved. 


CHAPTER  X. 


DU  CHAILLU’S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  EQUATORIAL  AFRICA. 

Du  Chaillu’s  explorations  carry  us  once  more  to  the  west 
coast  of  Africa,  to  a region  lying  between  latitude  2°  N.,  and 
2°  S.,  and  extending  about  300  miles  inland  from  the  seaboard, 
and  never  before  traversed  by  a white  man.  A brief  sketch  of 
Du  Chaillu’s  life  has  already  been  given  in  the  chapter  on 
“ Recent  Explorations.”  At  the  period  of  this  journey,  he  was 
a citizen  of  the  United  States,  though  a Frenchman  by  birth. 
He  sailed  from  New  York  in  October,  1855,  and  reached  the 
settlements  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gaboon  River,  in  December  of 
the  same  year.  Du  Chaillu  had  already  spent  several  years 
on  this  coast,  where  his  father  formerly  had  a factory,  and 
this  had  not  only  inured  his  constitution  in  some  degree  to  the 
severities  of  the  climate,  but  had  also  given  him  a ^knowledge 
of  the  languages,  habits,  and  peculiarities  of  the  coast  natives 
which  proved  very  serviceable  to  him  in  his  explorations  in  the 
interior. 

The  Gaboon  River,  which  takes  its  rise  among  the  Sierra  del 
Crystal  mountains,  empties  its  sluggish  waters  into  the  Atlantic, 
a few  miles  north  of  the  equator.  Its  mouth  forms  a bay 
which  is  the  finest  harbor  on  the  west  coast ; and  here,  on  the 
right  bank,  the  French  formed  a settlement  and  built  a fort  in 
the  year  1842.  Under  the  protection  of  the  settlement  thus 
begun,  several  missions  have  been  established  in  the  adjacent 
district ; and  at  one  of  these  called  Baraka,  the  head  station  of 
the  American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  situated  eight  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  Du  Chaillu  remained  until  April, 
1850,  in  order  more  perfectly  to  acclimate  himself,  and  to  pre- 
pare for  his  journey  inland.  He  also  took  occasion  at  this  time 
to  study  closely  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  Mpongwes,  or 
coast  tribes,  of  whom  he  gives  an  interesting  account. 

The  Mpongwe  are  a branch  of  one  of  the  great  families  of 
the  negro  race,  which  has  moved  gradually  from  the  head 
waters  of  the  Nazareth  down  to  the  seashore,  extending  its 
limits  meanwhile  to  the  north  and  south,  till  now  they  are 
found  from  the  Gaboon  River  on  the  north,  to  Cape  St.  Cathe- 


DU  CIIAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


185 


rine  on  tlic  south.  A portion  have  taken  possession  of  the  sea- 
shore, while  others  are  located  inland.  They  have  probably 
taken  the  place  of  other  tribes  who  have  disappeared  in  the 
mysterious  way  in  which  even  the  Mpongwe  are  now  lessening. 
Tiio  Mpongwe  inhabit  mostly  the  right  bank  of  the  Gaboon 
for  about  thirty  miles  up.  They  live  in  villages  which  are  gen- 
erally located  with  special  reference  to  the  trading  facilities 
afforded  by  the  position,  for  these  negroes  are  inveterate  traders 
— in  fact  tlic  most  intelligent  and  acute  merchants  on  the  coast. 
Under  the  rules  of  African  commerce,  their  possession  of  the 
coast  gives  them  great  advantages  in  point  of  trade  over  their 
inland  neighbors.  The  rivers,  which  are  the  only  highways  of 
the  country,  are,  of  course,  the  avenues  by  which  every  species 
of  export  aud  import  must  be  conveyed  from  and  to  the  in- 
terior tribes.  Now  the  river  banks  arc  possessed  by  different 
tribes.  Thus  while  the  Mpongwe  hold  the  mouth  of  the 
Gaboon,  and  some  miles  above  it,  they  are  succeeded  by  the 
Shekiani,  and  these  again  by  other  tribes,  to  the  number  of 
about  a dozen  before  the  Sierra  del  Crystal  Mountains  are 
reached.  Each  of  these  tribes  assumes  to  itself  the  privilege 
of  acting  as  go-between,  or  middle-man,  to  those  next  to  it,  and 
charges  a heavy  percentage  for  this  service ; and  no  infraction  of 
this  rule  is  permitted  under  pen alty  of  war.  Thus  a piece  of  i vory 
or  ebony  may  belong  originally  to  a negro  in  the  far  interior,  but 
if  lie  wants  to  barter  it  for  “ white  man’s  trade,”  he  dares  not 
take  it  to  market  himself.  If  he  should  be  rash  enough  to  at- 
tempt such  an  enterprise,  his  goods  would  be  confiscated,  and 
lie  himself,  if  caught,  fined  by  those  whose  monopoly  he  sought 
to  break  down,  or  most  likely  sold  into  slavery.  As  a matter 
of  course,  the  coast  tribes  .who  are  in  direct  contract  with  the 
white  man,  and  do  all  the  actual  trading,  reap  the  lion’s  share 
of  the  profit. 

The  Mpongwe  villages,  though  seldom  large,  are  the  neatest 
and  best  arranged  in  Africa.  They  have  generally  but  one 
street,  on  both  sides  of  which  the  houses  are  built ; sometimes 
there  are  a few  short  cross-streets.  In  a considerable  village, 
the  main  street  is  often  twenty  yards  wide  and  two  hundred 
yards  long.  The  houses  vary  in  size,  according  to  the  wealth  of 
the  owner ; they  are  built  of  a kind  of  bamboo,  which  is  ob- 
tained from  a species  of  palm,  very  plentiful  hereabouts,  whose 
leaves  also  furnish  mats  for  the  roofs.  The  houses  are  always 
of  quadrangular  shape,  and  from  twenty  to  one  hundred  feet  in 
length  or  breadth.  The  principal  room  is  in  the  centre.  The 
floor  is  of  clay,  which  is  pounded  hard,  and  by  long  use  becomes 


186 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


a firm  and  clean  flooring.  The  walls  are  built  by  first  driving 
stakes  into  the  ground,  and  to  these  stakes  neatly  tying  the  split 
bamboos.  One  set  is  tied  outside,  and  another  inside,  and  the 
crevices  are  made  close  by  the  leaves  of  the  palm-tree.  Thus 
the  walls  are  smooth  and  glossy,  and  perfectly  clean.  Both 
houses  and  street  are  very  neatly  kept. 

Du  Chaillu  describes  the  Mpongwe  as  the  best-looking  peo- 
ple he  saw  on  his  travels ; they  are  of  medium  size,  with  pleas- 
ant negro  features,  but  handsomer  than  the  Congo  tribes.  The 
men  wear  a shirt  generally  of  French,  English,  or  American 
calico,  on  which  is  wrapped  a square  cloth  which  falls  to  the 
ankles.  To  this  is  added  a straw  hat  for  the  head  ; only  the 
king  is  allowed  to  wear  the  sills  hat,  which  is  a badge  of  his 
office.  The  wealthier  men  and  chiefs  are  fond  of  dress,  and 
when  they  can  afford  it,  delight  to  show  themselves  in  a showy 
military  costume,  sword  and  all.  The  chief,  and  in  most  cases 
the  only,  garment  of  the  women  is  a square  cloth,  which  is 
wrapped  about  the  body,  and  covers  them  from  above  the  hips 
to  iust  below  the  knees.  On  their  bare  legs  and  arms  they  de- 
light to  wear  great  numbers  of  brass  rings,  often  carrying  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  pounds  of  brass  on  each  ankle  in  this  way. 
This  ridiculous  vanity  greatly  obstructs  their  motions,  and 
makes  their  walk  a clumsy  waddle.  Both  sexes  are  extremely 
fond  of  ornaments  and  perfumery,  with  the  latter  of  which  they 
plentifully  besprinkle  themselves,  without  regard  to  kind. 

The  vegetable  food  of  the  Mpongwe,  and  of  most  of  the 
other  tribes  of  this  region,  consists  of  Indian  corn,  the  plan- 
tain, yams,  sweet  potatoes,  cassava  (manioc),  tania,  pumpkins, 
and  ground  or  pea  nuts.  These  are  cultivated  by  the  women, 
who  perform  all  the  agricultural  and  most  of  the  other  labor. 
The  Mpongwe  eat  the  meat  of  almost  every  animal  found  in 
forest  or  river — deer,  antelopes,  wild  boar,  etc.  Contact  with 
the  whites  has  taught  them  not  to  eat  animals  of  other  orders, 
such  as  chimpanzee,  monkeys,  crocodiles,  rats,  etc. ; but  such 
food  is  still  eaten  by  their  slaves. 

During  his  stay  at  the  mission,  Du  Chaillu  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  witnessing  the  Mpongwe  method  of  choosing  a king, 
which  is  perhaps  unique.  When  a king  dies,  the  selection  of 
his  successor  devolves  upon  the  old  men  of  the  village,  who 
consult  together  in  secret.  The  man  elected  on  this  occasion 
was  Njogoni,  an  old  acquaintance  of  Du  Chaillu’s.  “ The  choice 
fell  on  him,  in  part  because  he  came  of  good  family,  but  chiefly 
because  lie  was  a favorite  of  the  people,  and  could  get  the  most 
votes.  I do  not  know  that  Njogoni  had  the  slightest  suspicion 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


187 


of  his  elevation.  At  any  rate  he  shammed  ignorance  very  well. 
As  ho  was  walking  on  the  shoro  on  the  morning  of  the  seventh 
day,  ho  was  suddenly  set  upon  by  the  entire  populace,  who  pro- 
ceeded to  a ceremony  which  is  preliminary  to  the  crowning, 
and  which  must  deter  any  but  the  most  ambitious  men  from 
aspiring  to  the  crown.  They  surrounded  him  in  a dense 
crowd,  and  then  began  to  heap  upon  him  every  manner  of 
abnso  that  the  worst  of  mobs  could  imagine.  Some  spit  in  his 
face  ; some  beat  him  with  their  fists ; some  kicked  him ; others 
threw  disgusting  objects  at  him  ; while  those  unlucky  ones  who 
stood  on  the  outside,  and  could  reach  the  poor  fellow  only  with 
their  voices,  assiduously  cursed  him,  his  father,  his  mother,  his 
sisters  and  brothers,  and  all  his  ancestors  to  the  remotest  gener- 
ation. A stranger  would  not  have  given  a cent  for  the  life  of 
him  who  was  presently  to  be  crowned.  Amid  all  the  noise  and 
struggle,  I caught  the  words  which  explained  all  to  me ; for 
every  few  minutes  some  fellow,  administering  an  especially 
severo  blow  or  kick,  would  shout  out, 4 You  are  not  our  king 
yet;  for  a little  while  we  will  do  what  we  please  with  you. 
fey  and  by  wo  shall  have  to  do  your  will.’ 

“ Njogoni  bore  himself  like  a man  and  a prospective  king. 
He  kept  his  temper,  and  took  all  the  abuse  with  a smiling  face. 
When  it  had  lasted  about  half  an  hour,  they  took  him  to  the 
house  of  the  old  king.  Here  he  was  seated,  and  became  again 
for  a little  while  the  victim  of  his  people’s  curses.  Then  all  be- 
came silent ; and  the  elders  of  the  people  rose  and  said,  solemnly 
(the  people  repeating  after  them), ‘Now  we  choose  yon  for  our 
king ; we  engage  to  listen  to  you  and  to  obey  you.’  A silence 
followed,  and  presently  the  silk  hat,  which  is  the  emblem  of 
Mpongwe  royalty,  was  brought  in  and  placed  on  Njogoni’s 
head.  He  was  then  dressed  in  a red  gown,  and  received  the 
greatest  marks  of  respect  from  all  who  had  just  now  abused 
him.  Now  followed  a six  days’  festival,  during  which  the  poor 
king,  who  had  taken  with  the  office  also  the  name  of  his  prede- 
cessor, was  obliged  to  receive  his  subjects  in  his  own  house,  and 
was  not  allowed  to  stir  out.  Six  days  of  indescribable  gorging 
of  food  and  bad  rum ; of  beastly  drunkenness  and  uproarious 
festivity.  Numbers  of  strangers  came  in  from  surrounding 
villages  to  pay  their  respects ; and  all  brought  more  rum,  more 
palm  wine,  and  more  food.  Everything  that  tended  toward  fes- 
tivity was  given  away,  and  all  who  came  were  welcome 

Finally,  the  rum  was  drunk  up,  the  allotted  days  were  expired, 
and  quiet  once  more  began  to  reign.  Now,  for  the  first  time,  his 
new  majesty  was  permitted  to  walk  out  and  view  his  dominions.” 


188 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


Du  Chaillu’s  first  journey  to  tlie  interior  began  towards  the 
latter  part  of  April,  1856,  and  the  first  stage  was  a march  down 
the  coast  of  about  sixty  miles  to  the  town  of  Sangatanga  on 
Cape  Lopez.  Cape  Lopez  lies  in  lat.  0°  36'  10"  S.,  and  long. 
8°  40'  E.  from  Greenwich,  and  is  a long  sandy  point  pro- 
jecting into  the  sea,  on  which  it  gains  somewhat  every  year. 
The  Nazareth  with  several  smaller  rivers  empty  into  the  sea 
here,  and  there  is  a bay  about  fourteen  miles  deep.  The 
region  known  generally  as  the  Cape  Lopez  country  includes 
all  the  shores  of  the  bay,  and  the  interior  for  thirty  or  forty 
miles.  Back  from  the  seashore  the  land  becomes  higher  and 
hilly,  the  mangroves  give  place  to  forests  of  palm  and  more 
useful  woods,  and  fine  praries  dot  the  country  quite  thickly. 
The  whole  of  this  district  is  given  to  the  slave-trade.  It  pro- 
duces small  quantities  of  ivory,  ebony,  wax,  etc. ; but  the  slave- 
factory  is  the  chief  commercial  establishment,  and  the  buying, 
selling,  and  transporting  of  slaves  for  the  baracoons  at  the  Cape 
is  the  most  profitable  business. 

The  tribe  in  possession  here  is  the  Oroungou,  related  appar- 
ently to  the  Mpougwe ; and  on  the  day  after  his  arrival,  Du 
Chaillu  called  on  King  Bango,  their  chief.  He  was  received 
in  state  by  the  king,  who  had  on  a flaming  yellow  coat  with 
gilt  embroidery  all  over  it,  and  a veritable  crown  like  those 
worn  by  actors  on  the  stage,  which  had  been  given  him  proba- 
bly by  some  trader.  Bango’s  wives  number  300,  aud  he  told 
the  traveller  that  he  had  not  less  than  600  children — an  esti- 
mate which  was  confirmed  by  subsequent  observation.  On  the 
night  after  the  reception  the  king  gave  a ball  in  Du  Chaillu’s 
honor.  “ The  room  where  I had  been  first  received,”  says  Du 
Chaillu,  u was  the  ball-room.  When  I arrived,  shortly  after 
dark,  I found  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  the  king’s  wives 
assembled,  many  of  whom  were  accounted  the  best  dancers  in 
the  country.  Shortly  afterward  singing  began,  and  then  a 
barrel  of  rum  was  rolled  in  and  tapped.  A good  glassful  was 
given  to  each  of  the  w6men,  and  then  the  singing  recom- 
menced. In  this  the  women  only  took  part,  and  the  airs  were 
doleful  and  discordant.  The  words  I could  not  always  catch ; 
but  here  is  a specimen : 

“ ‘ When  we  are  alive  and  well, 

Let  us  be  merry,  sing,  dance,  and  laugh  ; 

For  after  life  comes  death  ; 

Then  the  body  rots,  the  worms  eat  it, 

And  all  is  done  forever.  ’ 

When  everybody  was  greatly  excited  with  these  songs,  the 


DU  CIIAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


189 


kill",  who  sat  in  a corner  on  a sofa,  with  some  of  his  favorite 
wives  next,  him,  gave  the  signal  for  the  dance  to  begin.  Im- 
mediately all  rose  up  and  beat  a kind  of  tune  or  refrain  to 
accompany  the  noise  of  the  tam-tams,  or  drums.  Then  six 
women  stepped  out  and  began  to  dance  in  the  middle  of  the 
floor.  The  dance  is  not  to  be  described.  Any  one  who  lias 
seen  a Spanish  fandango,  and  can  imagine  its  lascivious  move- 
ments tenfold  exaggerated,  will  have  some  faint  conceptions 
of  the  postures  of  these  black  women.  To  attain  the  greatest 
possible  indecency  of  attitude  seemed  to  be  the  ambition  of 
all  six.  These  were  relieved  by  another  set  of  six  in  course  of 
time,  and  so  the  ball  went  on  for  about  two  hours,  when,  what 
with  occasional  potations  of  rum  and  the  excitement  of  the 
dance  and  noise,  the  whole  assemblage  got  so  uproarious  that 
I had  thoughts  of  retreating ; but  the  king  would  not  suffer  it. 
He  and  all  the  people  seemed  to  enjoy  it  all  exceedingly. 

u Next  women  came  out,  one  at  a time,  and  danced  their 
best  (or  worst)  before  a closely  critical  audience,  who,  watching 
every  motion  with  jealous  eyes,  were  sure  to  applaud  by  audi- 
ble murmurs  of  pleasure  at  every  more  than  usually  lewdy?#s. 
At  last  this  ceased,  and  two  really  pretty  young  girls  came  out 
hand  in  hand  and  danced  before  me.  1 was  told  that  they 
were  daughters  of  the  king,  and  he  desired  that  I should  take 
them  for  my  wives — an  offer  which  I respectfully  but  firmly 
declined.” 

It  was  Du  Chaillu’s  desire  to  penetrate  into  the  hitherto 
unexplored  interior  on  this  latitude  as  far  as  the  Nazareth 
River,  which  he  was  told  lay  about  100  miles  to  the  east. 
The  king  readily  consented  to  this,  and  assigned  him  twenty- 
five  men  to  carry  his  luggage  and  help  him  in  hunting.  They 
set  out  on  the  23d  of  May,  and,  after  marching  for  three  days 
over  a beautiful  country  of  rolling  prairie  and  gentle  hills, 
reached  Ngola,  the  chief  town  of  the  Shekiani  "tribe,  about 
60  miles  due  east  of  Sangatanga.  Du  Chaillu  was  the  first 
white  man  ever  seen  by  these  people,  and  the  women  and  chil- 
dren ran  screaming  into  the  houses  as  soon  as  they  caught 
sight  of  him.  But  he  was  cordially  received  by  Njambai,  the 
chief,  who  gave  him  a house  and  invited  him  to  stay  and  hunt. 
Here  he  remained  several  days,  hunting  in  the  woods,  and 
penetrated  on  one  occasion  about  twenty  miles  east  of  Ngola. 
His  efforts  were  rewarded  by  the  discovery  of  a new  species  of 
guinea-fowl  ( Numida  plumiferd ),  a new  pheasant  ( Phasiclus 
niger),  and  a new  species  of  buffalo  {Bos  brachuheros)  peculiar 
to  Equatorial  Africa.  He  also  killed  a great  number  of  the 


190 


DU  CHAILLU'8  EXPLORATIONS. 


birds  and  other  animals  already  known.  ' On  the  30th  of  May 
he  set  out  on- his  return  to  Sangatanga,  hunting  constantly  by 
the  way ; and,  after  a week  or  two  more  at  Cape  Lopez,  re- 
turned with  his  specimens  to  the  Gaboon. 

The  geographical  results  of  this  journey  were  unimportant ; 
and  the  only  contribution  made  to  our  knowledge  of  the 
African  tribes  is  the  account  of  the  Shekiani,  a people  who 
occupy  a portion  of  the  sea-shore  and  interior  as  far  as  80 
miles  from  the  sea — from  the  banks  of  the  Muni  and  Moondah 
down  to  the  Ogowai.  Through  this  great  extent  of  country 
they  are  scattered  in  villages,  having  nowhere  any  central 

Eoint  of  union,  and  living  for  the  most  part  in  the  neighbor- 
ood  of  Mpongwe  and  Bakalai  people. 

In  person  the  Shekianis  are  of  ordinary  size,  generally  light- 
colored  for  negroes,  and  not  so  fine-looking  as  the  Mpongwe. 
They  are  warlike,  treacherous,  much  given  to  trading,  and  are 
real  cheats.  They  are  ardent  hunters,  and  have  sufficient  cour- 
age and  great  skill  in  wood-craft,  being  very  lithe  and  active, 
light  of  foot,  and  cunning  in  their  manoeuvres  to  approach 
their  prey.  They  are  quarrelsome,  and  have  constant  “ pala- 
vers ” either  with  their  own  villages  or  those  of  other  tribes. 
They  have  but  little  clan  feeling,  and  the  intercourse  between 
neighboring  villages  of  Shekiaini  is  not  always  friendly,  and 
scarcely  ever  intimate.  The  men  have  little  or  no  taste  for 
agriculture;  they  leave  the  culture  of  the  ground  to  their 
women  and  slaves.  The  sea-shore  Shekianis  own  many  slaves, 
but  those  of  the  interior  but  few. 

In  their  warfare,  cunning  has  a most  important  part.  They 
laugh  at  the  courage  of  the  white  man  who  faces  his  enemy, 
and  delight  most  in  ambushes  and  sudden  surprises.  If  one 
has  a quarrel  with  another  he  lies  in  wait  for  him,  shoots  him 
as  he  is  passing  by  the  way,  and  immediately  retreats.  Then, 
of  course,  the  dead  man’s  friends  take  up  his  quarrel ; then  en- 
sue other  ambushes  and  murders ; frequently  a dozen  villages 
are  involved  in  palaver,  and  the  killing  and  robbing  goes  on  for 
months  and  even  years,  each  party  acting  as  occasion  offers. 
This  breeds  a feeling  of  insecurity  which  is  destructive  to  all 
settled  habits.  Often,  to  escape  assassination,  a whole  village 
moves  away  and  builds  anew  at  some  distance ; and  perhaps 
then  the  enemy  reaches  them,  or  new  complications  arise,  afford- 
ing cause  for  new  murders. 

Bolygamy  of  course  prevails  among  them,  and  takes  rank  as  a 
political  institution.  A man  finds  it  to  his  interest  to  marry  into 
as  many  influential  families  in  his  own  and  other  tribes  as  he 


DU  CHAILL U'S  EXPLORATIONS.  191 

can,  as  this  extends  his  trade  connections,  and  his  influence  and 
authority.  But,  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  the  cause  of  nearly 
all  the  palavers  and  wars  they  have.  The  men  are  continually 
intriguing  with  strange  women,  and  when  caught  arc  murdered, 
or  get  their  town  in  trouble.  Female  chastity  is  little  valued  ; 
and  one  great  cause  of  the  gradual  decrease  of  this  and  other 
tribes  is  found  in  the  fact  that  they  force  their  females  to  marry 
at  such  an  age  that  they  never  become  mothers.  Children  are 
promised  in  marriage  at  the  age  of  three  or  four  years,  or  even 
at  birth  ; and  girls  are  actually  wives  at  eight  and  nine,  and 
sometimes  earlier.  They  have  children  at  eleven  or  twelve,  but 
of  00111*80  the  women  age  early,  and  the  majority  die  young  and 
childless. 

Though  chastity  is  not  valued  for  itself,  adultery  is  a serious 
offence  among  townsmen.  It  is  punished  by  fines,  graduated 
according  to  the  means  of  the  offender ; and  many  men  are 
sold  annually  into  slavery  where  the  fine  cannot  be  levied  in 
any  other  way.  Sometimes  the  guilty  man  compromises  by 
working  for  a certain  time  for  the  injured  husband,  and  some- 
times blood  alone  heals  the  difficulty.  The  man  has  generally 
a head  or  chief  wife — mostly  the  woman  he  married  first ; and 
to  have  criminal  intercourse  with  this  woman  ranks  as  a most 
heinous  crime,  for  which  the  offender  is  at  least  sold  into  sla- 
very. When  the  husband  forms  new  marriage  connections,  and, 
as  often  happens,  his  new  bride  is  but  a child,  she  is  then  put 
under  the  care  and  guardianship  of  the  head  wife,  who  brings 
her  up  to  the  proper  age.  They  marry  also  with  their  slave 
women  ; but  the  children  of  these  women,  though  free,  have 
less  influence  and  regard  among  the  people  than  the  children 
of  free  women.  Frequently  the  women  desert  their  husbands 
for  abuse  or  other  causes,  and  run  off  to  other  villages  ; and  as 
it  is  a point  of  honor  to  return  no  fugitives  of  this  kind,  here 
is  another  fertile  source  of  palaver  and  war. 

The  women  are  treated  very  harshly.  The  men  take  care 
to  put  all  the  hardest  work  on  their  wives,  who  raise  the  crops, 
gather  firewood,  bear  all  kinds  of  burdens  ; and,  where  the 
bar-wood  trade  is  carried  on,  as  it  is  now  by  many  Shekiani 
villages,  the  men  only  cut  down  the  trees  and  split  them  into 
billets,  which  the  women  are  then  forced  to  bear  on  their  backs 
through  the  forests  and  jungle  down  to  the  river-banks,  as  they 
have  but  rude  paths,  and  beasts  of  burden  are  unknown  in  ail 
this  part  of  Africa.  This  is  the  most  severe  toil  imaginable, 
as  the  loads  have  to  be  carried  often  six  or  seven  miles  or 
more. 


192 


DU  CHAILLU' S EXPLORATIONS. 


The  Shekiani  tribe  is  divided  into  clans,  and  though  these 
families  grow  very  large  sometimes,  marriage  between  members 
of  the  same  clan  is  prohibited.  Children  add  much  to  a man’s 
consequence,  especially  boys;  and  a fruitful  woman  enjoys, 
for  this  reason,  great  favor.  In  cases  where,  as  frequently 
happens,  the  head  of  the  family  is  old  and  decrepit,  the  mother 
of  many  children  has  no  questions  asked  her.  They  know 
nothing  scarcely  of  the  care  of  children,  and  lose  a great  pro- 
portion through  mistaken  treatment  in  infancy.  Though  they 
have  villages,  they  may  almost  be  called  a nomadic  people. 
They  are  continually  moving  about  the  country,  shifting  their 
quarters  for  such  causes  as  a palaver  with  a neighboring  town, 
the  death  of  the  chief,  or  a belief  that  their  present  village  is 
bewitched.  Then  they  gather  up  all  their  household  goods, 
and,  collecting  what  provisions  they  can,  move  off  in  a body, 
sometimes  many  weary  miles  away. 

Their  superstitions  are  of  the  most  degrading  and  barbarous. 
The  belief  in  witchcraft  is  general,  and  causes  much  misery ; 
while  of  idols,  evil  and  good  spirits,  greegrees,  fetiches,  and 
charms,  there  seems  no  end. 

Du  Chaillu  made  but  a short  stay  at  the  Gaboon,  and  on  the 
27th  of  July,  1856,  set  out  for  Corisco  Bay  with  the  intention 
of  exploring  the  Muni  to  its  head-waters,  and  of  crossing,  if 
possible,  the  Sierra  del  Crystal  in  order  to  see  “ what  kind  of 
country  and  what  manner  of  people  were  to  be  found  there.” 
He  desired  particularly  to  visit  the  cannibal  tribes  in  the  Sierra, 
and  to  ascertain  if  the  Congo,  which  had  been  supposed  to  flow 
northward  back  of  these  mountains,  was  really  to  be  found 
there.  As  a preliminary  to  this  it  was  necessary  to  get  the 
consent  and  assistance  of  Dayoko,  an  influential  chief  in  the 
Muni,  who  holds  the  right  of  passage  on  the  river.  His  village 
lay  twelve  miles  up  the  river,  and  was  reached  from  Corisco  in 
one  of  the  large  native  canoes.  The  principal  diflic ulty  was  to 
convince  the  wary  old  chief  that  the  stranger  did  not  want  to 
trade  in  the  interior  and  thus  interfere  with  his  monopoly ; but 
when  it  was  made  clear  to  him  that  there  was  no  danger  in  this 
respect,  he  agreed  to  take  Du  Chaillu  under  his  protection,  and 
to  furnish  him  with  an  escort  up  the  Ntambounay  River  to 
Mbene,  a subordinate  chief  whose  village  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  first  granite  range  of  the  Sierra  del  Crystal. 

Mbene’s  village  was  reached  on  the  19th  of  August  after  a 
journey  of  three  days,  part  of  it  on  foot  and  over  a very  rough 
country  covered  with  thorny  thickets,  and  the  “ white  man  ” 
was  hospitably  welcomed.  He  soon  found,  however,  that  there 


WATERFALL  OF  THE  NTAMBUNAY. 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


11)3 


was  a great  scarcity  of  food  in  the  vicinity,  and  this  hastened 
forward  his  preparations  for  the  journey  over  the  mountains  to 
the  Fan  country.  Two  of  Mbene’s  sons,  twelve  men  who  were 
hunters,  and  half  a dozen  stout  women  as  porters,  were  provided 
for  the  trip,  and  Mbenc  did  everything  he  could  to  assist  his 
guest  in  getting  off ; but  it  was  not  till  August  24th  that  the 
party  started,  and  even  then  they  were  very  insufficiently  pro- 
vided with  food.  That  day  they  scaled  the  first  range  of 
granite  hills  and  traversed  an  elevated  table-land,  the  tempera- 
ture of  which  was  found  quite  cold  at  night.  Next  morning 
as  they  were  climbing  the  second  range  of  hills  they  came  up- 
on the  Ntambounay  Falls,  which  Du  Chaillu  describes  as  one 
of  the  grandest  sights  he  ever  beheld.  “ It  was  not  a water- 
fall, but  an  immense  mountain  torrent,  dashing  down  hill  at 
an  angle  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  degrees,  for  not  less  than  a 
mile  right  before  us,  like  a vast  seething,  billowy  sea.  The 
river-course  was  full  of  the  huge  granite  boulders  which  lie 
about  here  as  though  the  Titans  had  been  playing  at  skittles  in 
this  country ; and  against  these  the  angry  waters  dashed  as 
though  they  would  carry  all  before  them,  and,  breaking  up, 
threw  the  milky  spray  up  to  the  very  tops  of  the  trees  which 
grew  along  the  edge.  Where  we  stood  at  the  foot  of  the  rap- 
ids the  stream  took  a winding  turn  up  the  mountains  ; but  we 
had  the  whole  mile  of  foaming  rapids  before  us,  seemingly 
pouring  its  mass  of  waters  down  on  our  heads.” 

Just  above  the  Falls  Du  Chaillu  shot  an  immense  serpent, 
and  was  disgusted  to  see  his  men  cut  off  its  head,  divide  the 
body  into  proper  pieces,  and  roast  and  eat  them  on  the  spot. 
A short  distance  beyond,  they  came  upon  footprints  which  the 
natives  at  once  recognized,  as  those  of  the  gorilla.  They  were 
so  fresh  that  it  was  resolved  to  give  chase,  much  to  the  terror 
of  the  women  ; but  the  gorillas  were  more  expert  in  wood-craft 
than  their  pursuers,  and  after  being  once  sighted  escaped  into 
the  depths  of  the  forest.  Du  Chaillu  says:  “ I protest  I felt 
almost  like  a murderer  when  I' saw  the  gorillas  this  first  time. 
As  they  ran — on  their  hind  legs — they  looked  fearfully  like 
hairy  men  ; their  heads  down,  their  bodies  inclined  forward, 
their  whole  appearance  like  men  running  for  their  lives.  Take 
with  this  their  awful  cry,  which,  fierce  and  animal  as  it  is,  has 
yet  something  human  in  its  discordance,  and  yon  will  cease  to 
wonder  that  the  natives  have  the  wildest  superstitions  about 
these  ‘ wild  men  of  the  woods.’  ” One  of  these  superstitions, 
which  prevails  wherever  the  gorilla  is  found,  is  that  there  is  a 
kind  or  gorilla  which  is  the  residence  of  certain  spirits  of  dc- 
13 


104 


DU  CHAILLU 'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


parted  negroes.  These,  the  natives  believe,  can  never  be 
caught  or  killed ; and  also  they  have  much  more  shrewdness 
and  sense  than  the  common  animal,  uniting,  in  fact,  the  intel- 
ligence of  man  with  the  strength  and  ferocity  of  the  beast. 

After  three  or  four  days  more  of  steady  marching,  during 
which  they  were  nearly  famished  owing  to  the  scarcity  of 
game — Du  Chaillu  being  compelled  to  follow  the  native  exam- 
ple and  eat  roast  monkey — the  travellers  reached  the  first  vil- 
lages of  the  Fan,  at  a distance  of  about  150  miles  in  a straight 
line  from  the  coast.  Their  arrival  caused  a tremendous  com- 
motion, and  men,  women,  and  children  fled  in  dismay  the  mo- 
ment they  caught  a glimpse  of  the  white  “ spirit.”  It  wTas  only 
when  they  learned  that  the  Mbondemo  (Mbene’s  people),  who 
were  negroes  like  themselves,  had  lived  for  days  in  the  com- 
pany of  the  “spirit  ’’  with  impunity  that  they  could  be  induced 
to  lay  aside  their  fears  ; and  then  they  came  in  crowds. 

“ if  I was  not  frightened,”  says  Du  Chaillu,  “ I was  at  least 
as  much  surprised  by  all  I saw  as  the  Fan  could  be.  These 
fellows,  who  now  for  the  first  time  saw  a white  man  with 
straight  hair,  wTere  to  me  an  equal  surprise,  for  they  are  real, 
unmistakable  cannibals.  And  they  were,  by  long  odds,  the 
most  remarkable  people  I had  thus  far  seen  in  Africa.  They 
were  much  lighter  in  shade  than  any  of  the  coast  tribes,  strong, 
tall,  well  made,  and  evidently  active  ; and  they  seemed  to  me 
to  have  a more  intelligent  look  than  is  usual  to  the  African  un- 
acquainted with  white  men.” 

The  men  were  almost  naked.  They  had  no  cloth  about  the 
middle,  but  used  instead  the  soft  inside  bark  of  a tree,  over 
which,  in  front,  was  suspended  the  skin  of  some  wild-cat  or 
tiger.  The}r  had  their  teeth  filed,  which  gives  the  face  a 
ghastly  and  ferocious  look,  and  some  had  the  teeth  blackened 
besides.  Their  hair,  or  “ wool,”  was  drawn  out  into  long  thin 
plaits ; on  the  end  of  each  stiff  plait  were  strung  some  white 
beads,  or  copper  or  iron  rings.  Some  wore  feather  caps,  but 
others  wore  long  queues  made  of  their  own  wool  and  a kind  of 
tow,  dyed  black  and  mixed  with  it,  and  giving  the  wearer  a 
most  grotesque  appearance.  Over  their  shoulders  wras  sus- 
pended the  huge  country  knife,  and  in  their  bauds  were  spears 
and  the  great  shield  of  elephant  hide,  and  about  the  necks  and 
bodies  of  all  were  hung  a variety  of  fetiches  and  greegrees, 
which  rattled  as  they  walked.  The  Fan  shield  is  made  or  the 
hide  of  an  old  elephant,  and  only  of  that  part  which  lies  across 
the  back.  This,  when  dried  and  smoked,  is  hard  and  impene- 
trable as  iron.  The  shield  is  about  three  feet  long  by  two  and 


DU  CJIAILLU'8  EXPLORATIONS. 


195 


a half  wide.  Their  fetiches  consisted  of  fingers  mid  tails  of 
monkeys;  of  human  hair,  skin, teeth,  bones;  of  clay,  old  nails, 
copper"  chains,  shells;  feathers,  claws,  and  skulls  of  birds; 
pieces  of  iron,  copper,  or  wood  ; seeds  of  plants;  ashes  of  vari- 
ous substances.  From  the  great  variety  and  plenty  of  these 
objects  on  their  persons,  it  was  evident  that  the  Fan  are  a very 
superstitious  people. 

The  women,  who  were  even  less  dressed  than  the  men,  were 
much  smaller  than  they,  and  hideously  ugly.  These,  too,  had 
their  teeth  filed,  and  most  had  their  bodies  painted  red,  by 
means  of  a dye  obtained  from  the  bar-wood.  They  carried 
their  babies  on  their  backs  in  a sling  or  rest  made  of  some  kind 
of  tree-bark  and  fastened  to  the  neck  of  the  mother. 

Such  were  the  strange  people  who  now  crowded  around  the 
“spirit,”  as  they  persisted  in  calling  him,  examining  every  part 
of  his  person  and  dress  that  he  would  allow  to  be  touched,  but 
especially  wondering  at  his  hair  and  feet.  The  former  they 
could  not  sufficiently  admire.  On  his  feet  he  had  boots,  and 
as  his  trousers  lay  over  these,  they  thought,  naturally  enough, 
that  these  boots  were  his  veritable  feet,  and  wondered  greatly 
that  the  face  should  be  of  one  color  and  the  feet  of  another. 

Next  day  Du  Chaillu’s  men  went  out  with  their  old  trade 
muskets  on  a gorilla  hunt;  and  though  they  were  unsuccessful, 
they  saw  such  clear  indications  of  the  presence  of  gorillas,  that 
he  determined  to  go  out  with  them  himself  the  day  afterwards. 
They  beat  the  bush  all  day,  coming  upon  fresh  gorilla  tracks, 
but  night  came  upon  them  before  they  had  brought  their  quarry 
to  bay  ; they  resolved,  therefore,  to  camp  in  the  forest  and  re- 
new the  hunt  next  day.  Next  morning  they  started  betimes, 
and  after  travelling  several  hours  without  seeing  any  signs  of  a 
gorilla,  were  beginning  to  be  discouraged  when  suddenly  one 
of  the  hunters  gave  a cluck  with  his  tongue, — the  native  way 
of  indicating  that  something  is  stirring  and  that  a sharp  look- 
out is  necessary. 

u Presently,”  says  Dr.  Chaillu,  " I noticed,  ahead  of  us  seem- 
ingly, a noise  as  of  some  one  breaking  down  branches  or  twigs 
of  trees.  This  was  the  gorilla,  I knew  at  once,  by  the  eager 
and  satisfied  looks  of  the  men.  They  looked  once  more  care- 
fully at  their  guns,  to  sec  if  by  any  chance  the  powder  had 
fallen  out  of  the  pans;  I also  examined  mine,  to  make  sure 
that  all  was  right ; and  then  we  marched  on  cautiously. 

“ The  singular  noise  of  the  breaking  of  tree-branches  contin- 
ued. We  walked  with  tfte  greatest  care,  making  no  noise  at 
all.  The  countenances  of  the  men  showed  that  they  thought 


196 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


themselves  engaged  in  a very  serious  undertaking ; but  we 
pushed  on,  until  finally  we  thought  we  saw  through  the  thick 
woods  the  moving  of  the  branches  and  small  trees  which  the 
great  beast  was  tearing  down,  probably  to  get  from  them  the 
berries  and  fruits  he  lives  on. 

“ Suddenly,  as  we  were  yet  creeping  along,  in  a silence  which 
made  a heavy  breath  seem  loud  and  distinct,  the  woods  were 
at  once  filled  with  the  tremendous  barking  roar  of  the  gorilla. 
Then  the  underbrush  swayed  rapidly  just  ahead,  and  pres- 
ently before  us  stood  an  immense  male. gorilla.  He  had  gone 
through  the  jungle  on  his  all-fours ; but  when  he  saw  our  party 
he  erected  himself  and  looked  us  boldly  in  the  face.  He  stood 
about  a dozen  yards  from  us,  and  was  a sight  I think  never  to 
forget.  Nearly  six  feet  high  (he  proved  two  inches  shorter), 
with  immense  body,  huge  chest,  and  great  muscular  arms,  with 
fiercely-glaring  large  deep-gray  eyes,  and  a hellish  expression 
of  face,  which  seemed  to  me  like  some  nightmare  vision:  thus 
stood  before  us  this  king  of  the  African  forests. 

“He  -was  not  afraid  of  us.  He  stood  there,  and  beat  his 
breast  with  his  huge  fists  till  it  resounded  like  an  immense 
bass-drum,  which  is  their  mode  of  offering  defiance;  mean- 
time giving  vent  to  roar  after  roar.  ' 

“The  roar  of  the  gorilla  i3  the  most  singular  and  awful  noise 
heard  in  these  African  woods.  It  begins  with  a sharp  baric, 
like  an  angry  dog,  then  glides  into  a deep  bass  roll , which  liter- 
ally and  closely  resembles  the  roll  of  distant  thunder  along  the 
sky,  for  which  I have  sometimes  been  tempted  to  take  it  where 
I did  not  see  the  animal.  So  deep  is  it  that  it  seems  to  proceed 
less  from  the  mouth  and  throat  than  from  the  deep  chest  and 
vast  paunch. 

“ His  eyes  began  to  flash  fiercer  fire  as  we  stood  motionless 
on  the  defensive,  and  the  crest  of  short  hair  which  stands  on 
his  forehead  began  to  twitch  rapidty  up  and  down,  while  his 
powerful  fangs  were  shown  as  he  again  sent  forth  a thunder- 
ous roar.  And  now  truly  he  reminded  me  of  nothing  but 
some  hellish  dream  creature — a being  of  that  hideous  order, 
half  man  half  beast,  which  we  find  pictured  by  old  artists  in 
some  representations  of  the  infernal  regions,  lie  advanced  a 
few  steps — then  stopped  to  utter  that  hideous  roar  again — ad- 
vanced again,  and  finally  stopped  when  at  a distance  of  about 
six  yards  from  us.  And  here,  as  he  began  another  of  his  roars 
and  beating  his  breast  in  rage,  we  fired,  and  killed  him. 

“With  a groan  which  had  something  terribly  human  in  it, 
and  yet  was  full  of  brutishness,  it  fell  forward  on  its  face. 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


197 


The  body  shook  convulsively  for  a few  minutes,  the  limbs 
moved  about  in  a struggling  way,  and  then  all  was  quiet — 
death  had  done  its  work,  and  I had  leisure  to  examine  the  huge 
body.  It  proved  to  be  live  feet  ten  inches  high,  and  the 
muscnlar  development  of  the  arms  and  breast  showed  what 
immense  strength  it  had  possessed.’’ 

The  men  proceeded 
at  once  to  cut  tip  the 
carcass,  and  apportion 
out  the  meat — for  they 
actually  cat  this  crea- 
ture. They  also  care- 
fully preserved  the 
brains  for  charms : 
prepared  in  one  way 
the  charm  gives  the 
wearer  a strong  hand 
for  the  hunt,  and  in 
another  it  gives  him 
success  with  women. 

A few  days  after- 
wards, Du  Chaillu  was 
invited  to  the  princi- 
pal village  to  meet  the 
king,  Mbene  having 
overcome  the  latter’s 
reluctance  to  meet  the 
“ spirit  ” face  to  face. 

It  was  near  by,  and  as 
he  entered  the  village, 
he  thought  he  saw  some 
bloody  remains  which 
looked  human,  though 
he  could  not  bring 
himself  to  believe  that 
it  was  so.  Presently, 
however,  he  passed  a 
woman  who  dissipated 
all  doubt.  She  bore 
with  her  a piece  of  the  thigh  of  a human  body,  just  as  we  should 
go  to  market  and  carry  thence  a roast  or  steak.  On  arriving  at 
the  palaver-house,  he  found  the  king  surrounded  by  immense 
numbers  of  his  people.  This  personage  was  named  Ndiayai ; 
and  he  was  a ferocious-looking  fellow,  whose  body,  naked  with 


KING  NDIAYAI. 


198 


DU  CHAILLU '8  EXPLORATIONS. 


the  exception  of  the  usual  cloth  around  the  middle,  made  of 
the  bark  of  a tree,  was  painted  red,  and  whose  chest,  stomach, 
and  back,  were  tattooed  in  a rude  but  very  effective  manner, 
lie  was  covered  with  charms,  and  was  fully  armed.  All  the 
Fans  present  wore  queues,  but  that  of  the  king  was  the  largest 
of  all,  and  terminated  in  two  tails,  in  which  were  strung  brass 
rings,  while  the  top  was  ornamented  with  white  beads.  Brass 
anklets  jingled  as  he  walked.  The  front  of  his  middle-cloth 
was  a tine  piece  of  tiger-skin.  His  beard  was  plaited  in  several 
plaits  which  also  contained  white  beads,  and  stuck  out  stiffly 
from  the  body.  His  teeth  were  filed  to  a point  and  colored 
black,  giving  him  a peculiarly  horrible  look.  Notwithstanding 
the  bravery  of  his  appearance,  however,  he  was  evidently 
frightened  at  sight  of  his  strange  guest. 

The  queen,  who  accompanied  her  lord,  was  very  old  and  hid- 
eously ugly.  She  was  nearly  naked,  her  only  article  of  dress 
being  a strip  of  the  Fan  cloth,  dyed  red,  and  about  four  inches 
wide.  Her  entire  body  was  tattooed  in  the  most  fanciful  man- 
ner; and  her  skin,  from  long  exposure,  had  become  rough  and 
knotty.  She  wore  two  enormous  iron  anklets — iron  being  a 
very  precious  metal  with  the  Fan — and  had  in  her  ears  a pair 
of  copper  ear-rings,  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  very  heavy. 
These  had  so  weighed  down  the  lobes  of  her  ears,  that  the  little 
finger  could  easily  have  been  put  into  the  holes  through  which 
the  rings  were  run. 

At  the  close  of  the  interview,  Du  Chaillu  was  conducted  to 
the  house  which  had  been  assigned  him.  The  houses  of  the 
Fan  are  small,  being  only  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  five  or  six 
wide,  and  four  or  five  high,  with  slanting  roofs.  They  are 
made  of  bark,  and  the  roofs  of  a kind  of  matting  made  of  the 
leaves  of  a palm-tree.  The  doors  run  up  to  the  eaves,  about 
four  feet  high,  and  there  are  no  windows.  In  these  houses  the 
people  cook,  eat,  sleep,  and  keep  their  store  of  provisions,  chief 
of  which  is  the  smoked  game  and  smoked  human  flesh,  hung 
up  to  the  rafters.  All  the  Fan  villages  are  strongly  fenced  or 
palisaded;  and  by  night  a careful  watch  is  kept.  They  have 
also  a little  native  dog,  whose  sharp  bark  is  the  signal  of  some 
one  approaching  from  without.  The  villages  are  kept  neat  and 
clean,  the  streets  being  swept,  and  all  garbage — except  indeed 
the  well-picked  bones  of  their  human  subjects — is  thrown 
out. 

Du  Chaillu  was  now  on  excellent  terms  with  the  natives,  and 
went  out  hunting  with  them  nearly  every  day.  On  September 
4th,  he  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  liow  they  conduct  one 


DU  CUAILLirS  RXPLORtX TI0N8. 


190 


of  their  great  periodical  elephant  hunts.  The  forests  here- 
abouts are  full  of  rough,  stony  climbing  plants,  which  run  up 
to  the  tops  of  the  tallest  trees.  When  the  Fan  find  that  the 
elephants  arc  frequenting  any  particular  locality,  they  pro- 
ceed thither  in  great  numbers  (there  were  500  engaged  in  this 
hunt)  but  very  cautiously,  twist  the  vines  together,  and  very 
ingeniously,  but  with  much  labor,  construct  a kind  of  huge 
fence  or  obstruction,  not  sufficient  to  hold  the  elephant,  but 
quite  strong  enough  to  check  him  in  his  flight,  and  entangle 
him  in  the  meshes  till  the  hunters  can  have  time  to  kill  him. 
Once  caught,  they  quietly  surround  the  huge  beast,  and  put 
an  end  to  his  struggles  by  incessant  discharges  of  their  spears 
and  guns.  Sometimes,  the  p<x>r  beast  looks  like  a gigantic  por- 
cupine, so  numerous  are  the  spears  launched  against  him  be- 
fore be  is  killed.  Four  elephants  were  killed  in  this  way,  on 
this  hunt,  and  one  man  lost  his  life, — a not  uncommon  occur- 
rence, as  the  elephants  often  charge  right  into  the  midst  of 
their  assailants,  and  the  greatest  agility  and  presence  of  mind 
are  necessary  to  elude  them. 

The  rest  of  his  stay  in  Nd^'ai’s  country  presents  no  features 
of  special  interest,  so  wo  will  merely  summarize  here  the  results 
of  his  observations  among  the  Fan. 

The  Fans  are  in  color  dark  brown  rather  than  black,  but 
have,  as  before  said,  curly  or  woolly  hair.  They  arc  lighter  in 
color  than  the  Bakalai,  Shekiani,  and  other  surrounding  tribes. 
They  tattoo  themselves  more  than  any  of  the  other  tribes 
north  of  the  equator,  but  not  so  much  as  some  to  the  south. 
The  men  are  less  disfigured  in  this  way  than  the  women,  who 
take  great  pride  in  having  tlicir  breasts  and  abdomen  entirely 
covered  with  the  blue  lines  and  curves.  Their  cheeks  also  are 
fully  marked  in  various  figures,  and  this,  with  the  immense 
copper  and  iron  rings  which  weigh  down  the  lobes  of  their 
ears,  gives  them  a hideous  appearance.  The  men  arc  very  ex- 
pert blacksmiths,  and  though  their  tools  are  rude  they  produce 
work  far  superior  to  any  known  in  this  part  of  Africa.  Their 
weapons  indicate  their  skill  in  this  line.  Many  of  tlicir  war- 
riors are  armed  with  a truly  terrible  battle-axe,  one  blow  of 
which  quite  suffices  to  split  a human  skull.  Then  there  is  a 
very  singular  pointed  axe,  which  is  thrown  from  a distance,  as 
American  Indians  are  said  to  have  used  the  tomahawk.  The 
war-knife,  which  hangs  by  the  side,  is  a terrible  weapon  for  a 
hand-to-hand  conflict;  and  there  is  another  huge  knife,  over  a 
foot  long  by  about  eight  inches  wide,  which  is  used  to  cut  down 
through  the  shoulders  of  an  adversary.  The  spears  are  six  or 


200 


DU  CHAILLU'8  EXPLORATIONS. 


seven  feet  in  length,  and  are  thrown  with  astonishing  accuracy 
to  the  distance  of  thirty  yards.  Some  of  the  axes,  knives,  and 
other  iron-work  are  ornamented  with  scroll-work,  and  wrought 
in  graceful  lines  and  curves,  which  show  a correct  eye  and  con- 
siderable artistic  taste.  Crossbows  are  also  used  in  war  and  on 
the  hunts.  The  larger  arrows  have  an  iron  head,  something 
like  the  sharp  barbs  of  a harpoon ; these  are  used  for  hunting 
wild  beasts,  and  are  about  two  feet  long.  But  the  most  deadly 
weapon  of  all  is  the  little  insignificant-lookingstick  of  bamboo, 
not  more  than  twelve  inches  long,  and  simply  sharpened  at  one 
end.  This  is  the  famed  poison-arrow — a missile  which  bears 
death  wherever  it  touches,  if  only  it  pricks  a pin’s-point  of 
blood.  The  poison  is  made  of  the  juices  of  a plant  indigenous 
to  the  forests  hereabouts.  They  dip  the  sharp  ends  of  the  ar- 
rows several  times  in  the  sap,  and  let  it  get  thoroughly  dried 
into  the  wood  ; it  gives  the  point  a red  color.  The  arrows  are 
kept  very  carefully  in  a little  bag  made  of  the  skin  of  some 
wild  animal.  They  are  much  dreaded  by  the  tribes  -with  whom 
the  Fan  are  sometimes  at  war,  as  they  can  be  projected  with 
such  force  as  to  take  effect  at  a distance  of  fifteen  yards,  and 
with  such  velocity  that  they  cannot  be  evaded.  There  is  no 
cure  for  a wound  from  one  of  these  harmless-looking  sticks — 
death  follows  in  a very  short  time. 

The  Fan  have  also  some  skill  in  pottery,  and  make  vessels  of 
clay  which  are  surprisingly  regular  in  shape,  seeing  that  they 
know  nothing  of  the  lathe.  Their  agricultural  operations  are 
very  rude  ; they  merely  cut  down  the  trees  and  brush  to  make 
a clearing,  burn  everything  that  is  cut  down,  and  then  dig  holes 
and  stick  in  their  roots  and  shrubs.  Their  staple  food  is  the 
manioc,  the  leaves  of  which  they  also  boil  and  eat  as  “ greens.” 
Besides  manioc  they  cultivate  plantains,  yams,  sugar-cane  of  an 
excellent  quality,  and  squashes,  the  seeds  of  which  they  pre- 
pare in  a peculiar  way. 

The  Fan  have  one  custom  which  perhaps  accounts  for  their 
superiority  to  the  surrounding  tribes.  They  never  marry  their 
girls  before  they  have  arrived  at  the  age  of  puberty ; and  they 
have  a care  for  the  chastity  of  their  young  women.  The  Fan 
marriage  ceremonies  are  very  rude,  but  are  a time  of  great  jol- 
lity. Of  course  the  husband  has  to  buy  his  wife,  and  the 
shrewd  father  makes  a bargain  with  him  as  well  as  he  can,  put- 
ting. on  a great  price  if  the  man’s  love  is  very  ardent ; some- 
times the  price  is  so  high  that  it  takes  years  before  a man  can 
buv  and  marry  the  lady  of  his  love. 

When  a wedding  is  in  prospect  the  friends  of  the  happy 


DU  CEAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


201 


couple  spend  many  days  in  obtaining  and  laying  in  great  stores 
of  provisions — chiefly  smoked  elephant-meat  and  palm-wine. 
They  engage  hunters  to  keep  up  the  supply,  and  accumulate 
enough  to"  feed  the  great  numbers  who  are  expected  to  come. 
When  all  is  ready  the  whole  town  assembles,  and,  without  any 
ceremony,  but  merely  as  a public  sale,  as  it  were,  the  father 
hands  his  daughter  to  her  husband,  who  has  generally  already 
paid  her  price.  The  “ happy  pair  ” are,  of  course,  dressed 
finely  for  the  occasion.  The  bridegroom  is  attired  in  a feather 
head-dress  of  glowing  colors;  his  body  is  oiled;  his  teeth  arc 
black  and  polished  like  ebony  ; his  huge  knife  hangs  at  his  side  ; 
and  if  he  can  kill  a leopard  or  panther,  or  other  rare  animal,  its 
skin  is  wrapped  about  his  middle  in  a graceful  way.  The  bride 
is  very  simply  dressed,  or  rather  she  is  (like  all  the  Fan 
women)  not  dressed  at  all  ; but  for  this  occasion  she  is  orna- 
mented with  as  many  bracelets  as  she  can  get,  of  brass  or  cop- 
per, and  wears  her  woolly  locks  full  of  white  beads.  When  all 
are  assembled,  and  the  bride  is  handed  over  to  her  lord,  a gen- 
eral jollification  ensues,  which  lasts  sometimes  for  many  days. 
They  eat  elephant-meat,  get  tipsy  oil  palm-wine,  dance,  sing, 
and  seem  to  enjoy  themselves  very  much,  until  at  last  wine 
grows  scarce,  and  the  crowd  returns  to  an  unwilling  sobriety. 

Polygamy  is  a fertile  source  of  quarrels  and  bloodshed  among 
them  ; and  the  growing  desire  for  “ white  man’s  goods,”  to  pay 
for  which,  in  the  present  miserable  condition  of  trade,  they  can- 
not get  sufficient  ivory,  induces  them  to  send  many  of  their 
criminals  to  the  coast  to  be  sold  as  slaves.  They  themselves 
have  but  few  slaves. 

The  Fans  are  a very  superstitious  people.  The  chief  village 
of  each  family  has  a huge,  idol,  to  whose  temple  all  that  family 
gather  at  certain  periods  to  worship.  This  worship  consists  of 
rude  dances  and  singing.  The  idol  houses  are  usually  sur- 
rounded with  skulls  of  wild  animals,  prominent  among  which  is 
the  skull  of  the  gorilla.  To  take  away  or  disturb  these  skulls 
would  be  accounted  sacrilege,  and  worthy  of  death.  They 
have  a great  reverence  for  charms  and  fetiches,  and  even  the 
little  children  are  covered  with  talismans,  duly  consecrated  by 
the  doctor,  or  greegree  man  of  the  tribe.  Witchcraft  is  a com- 
mon thing  to  be  accused  of  among  them,  and  the  death  penalty 
is  sternly  executed.  They  set  little  value  on  life,  and  as  the 
dead  body  has  a commercial  value,  this  consideration  too, 
probably,  lias  its  weight  in  passing  sentence  of  death. 

And  this  brings  us  to  the  most  revolting  of  all  the  customs 
of  the  Fans.  They  are  not  only  cannibals,  but  practise  a form 


202 


DU  CHAILLU 'S  EXPLORATIONS, . 


of  cannibalism  unheard  of  among  the  other  cannibal  tribes  of 
Africa — eating  those,  namely,  who  have  died  of  sickness. 
They  will  not  eat  members  of  their  own  family,  but  they  con- 
stantly buy  the  dead  bodies  of  the  neighboring  tribes,  and  of 
other  families  in  their  own  tribes ; who,  in  return,  buy  theirs. 
They  readily  give  ivory,  at  the  rate  of  a small  tusk  for  a body 
— even  when  the  latter  has  evidently  died  of  some  loathsome 
disease.  They  are  regular  ghouls,  in  fact,  and  have  been 
known  to  steal  a freshly-buried  body  from  the  cemetery  when 
ou  a visit  to  the  sea-coast. 

“Notwithstanding  their  repulsive  habit,”  says  Du  Chaillu, 
“ the  Fans  have  left  the  impression  upon  me  of  being  the  most 
promising  people  in  all  Western  Africa.  They  treated  me 
with  unvarying  hospitality  and  kindness;  and  they  seem  to 
have  more  of  that  kind  of  stamina  which  enables  a rude  people 
to  receive  astrange  civilization  than  any  other  tribe  I know  of 
in  Africa.  Energetic,  tierce,  warlike,  decidedly  possessing  both 
courage  and  ingenuity,  they  are  disagreeable  enemies;  and  I 
think  it  most  probable  that  the  great  family  or  nation  of  which 
they  are  but  a small  offshoot,  and  who  should  inhabit  the  moun- 
tainous range  which  subsequent  explorations  convince  me  ex- 
tends nearly  if  not  quite  across  the  continent — that  these 
mountaineers  have  stayed  in  its  course  the  great  sweep  of  Ma- 
hometan conquest  in  this  part  of  Africa.” 

It  was  Du  Chaillu’s  great  desire  to  push  on  still  farther  to 
the  eastward,  and  visit  other  interior  tribes  ; but  this  was  ren- 
dered impossible  by  the  state  of  war  between  the  tribes  on  the 
border,  and  after  a visit  of  a few  days  to  the  neighboring  and 
friendly  Oshebafe,  he  bade  adieu  to  his  Fan  friends  on  Sept. 
18th,  and  returned  by  easy  stages  to  Corisco  Bay.  From  this 
point  he  made  a short  and  unimportant  trip  up  the  Moondah 
River,  and  early  in  November  found  himself  once  more  in  the 
enjoyment  of  rest  at  the  Gaboon. 

After  a somewhat  protracted  stay  with  his  friends  at  the 
mission,  Du  Chaillu  again  left  the  Gaboon,  February  5th,  1857, 
intending  this  time  to  explore  the  district  known  as  the  “ Cam- 
ma  Country.”  The  Cainina  country  begins  to  the  south  of 
Cape  Lopez,  in  lat.  0°  40'  S.,  and  extends  southward  as  far  as 
the  River  Camma,  in  lat.  1°  50'  S.,  and  to  the  east  for  about 
fifty  miles  from  the  coast.  It  is  a well-watered  region ; the 
Mexias,  and  some  minor  branches  of  the  great  Ogowai  River, 
running  into  the  sea  in  its  northern  bounds,  while  the  Fernand 
Vaz,  the  Camma,  and  the  Selti  have  their  mouths  farther 
south  at  various  poiuts  on  the  Camma  coast.  The  coast  line  is 


DU  CHAILLU 'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


203 


generally  low  and  swampy;  a heavy  surf  makes  landing  diffi- 
cult, except  at  a few  points  protected  by  the  shape  of  the  land, 
and  the  shore,  viewed  from  the  sea,  has  so  monotonous  an  as- 
pect that  seamen  find  it  difficult  to  recognize  their  whereabouts, 
even  after  considerable  experience  of  the  coast.  For  this  rea- 
son, the  trade  along  this  part  of  tiie  coast  is  not  very  brisk ; 
vessels  touch  but  seldom  ; and  Du  Chaillu  had  to  purchase  a 
small  cutter  at  the  Gaboon  to  take  him  to  his  destination  on 
the  Fernand  Yaz. 

The  place  selected  for  his  head-quarters  was  Biagano,  the 
residence  of  King  Ranpano,  who  was  a friend  of  one  of  Du 
Chaillu’s  Gaboon  allies,  and  who  proved  a trustworthy  and 
helpful  friend  to  him  in  his  later  explorations.  Ranpano’s 
people  were  so  delighted  to  see  a white  man  with  “ trade” 
that  Du  Chaillu  could  scarcely  prevent  their  hugging  him  on 
his  arrival ; and  as  he  intended  to  use  this  point  as  a base  of 
operations  for  a considerable  time  he  selected  a spot  near  the 
village,  and  had  a number  of  huts  and  storehouses  built  upon 
it,  which  looked  so  well  when  they  were  finished,  that  he 
called  the  settlement  Washington.  The  entire  town  was  built 
for  less  than  a hundred  dollars.  The  houses  were  finished 
earl  y in  April,  and  as  soon  as  his  goods  had  been  removed  to 
them,  Du  Chaillu  made  a brief  excursion  up  the  Fernand  Yaz 
— which  here  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast — to  a town 
called  Aniambia,  where  hunting  was  said  to  be  good.  lie  re- 
turned to  Biagano  on  the  24th  of  April,  and  on  May  4th,  his 
men  caught  a young  gorilla — an  event  which  he  describes  as 
“ one  of  the  greatest  pleasures  of  his  whole  life.”  lie  was  a 
little  fellow,  between  two  and  three  years  old,  and  only  two 
feet  six  inches  in  height,  but  he  proved  as  fierce  and  stubborn 
as  a grown  animal  could  have  been.  He  was  so  ferocious  that 
even  after  two  weeks  of  confinement,  it  was  dangerous  to  ap- 
proach his  cage.  Once  he  escaped  by  tearing  away  the  bam- 
boo sides  of  his  lint,  and  it  took  four  men  to  carry  him  back, 
even  after  a net  had  been  thrown  over  his  head.  A little  chain 
was  now  put  round  his  neck  ; but  ten  days  after  he  was  thus 
chained  he  died  suddenly, — to  Du  Chaillu’s  great  disappoint- 
ment. “ To  the  last  he  continued  utterly  untamable ; and, 
after  his  chains  were  on,  added  the  vice  of  treachery  to  his 
others.  lie  would  come  sometimes  quite  readily  to  eat  out  of 
my  hand,  but  while  I stood  by  him  would  suddenly — looking 
me  all  the  time  in  the  face,  to  keep  my  attention — put  out  his 
foot  and  grasp  at  my  leg.  Several  times  he  tore  my  pantaloons 
in  this  manner,  quick  retreat  on  my  part  saving  my  person ; 


204 


DU  CHAILLU' S EXPLORATIONS. 


till  at  last  I was  obliged  to  be  very  careful  in  my  approaches. 
The  negroes  could  not  come  near  him  at  all  without  setting  him 
in  a rage.  He  knew  me  very  well,  and  trusted  me,  but  evi- 
dently always  cherished  a feeling  of  revenge  even  toward  me.” 
The  hope  of  taming  the  gorilla  had  detained  Du  Ckaillu  at 
Biagano  for  several  weeks ; but  on  the  27th  of  May  he  started 
with  two  canoes  and  twelve  men  up  the  Npoulounay,  a branch 
of  the  Ogowai.  At  the  distance  of  about  sixty  miles  from 
Biagano,  they  came  to  a fork  in  the  river,  and  taking  the  right 
branch,  soon  found  themselves  ascending  a sluggish  stream 
which  narrowed  so  rapidly  that  at  last  it  was  not  more  than 
two  yards  wide  and  nearly  choked  with  reeds.  Pushing 
slowly  up  this,  they  suddenly  emerged  into  the  Lake  of  Anen- 


YOUNG  GORILLA. 


gue,  a vast  body  of  water  about  ten  miles  wide,  and  dotted 
with  large  beautifully  wooded  islets.  Several  towns  were  in 
sight,  and  steering  for  one  of  these  Du  Chaillu  presently  found 
himself  in  the  presence  of  King  Damagondai,  a hospitable  old 
savage  who  felt  very  proud  of  a visit  from  a white  man. 
Du  Chaillu  stayed  here  from  the  1st  to  the  10th  of  June, 
hunting  and  exploring  the  lake  and  its  islets,  but  was  compelled 
to  return  to  Biagano  by  the  bursting  of  both  of  his  guns. 

The  accident  proved  a fortunate  one ; for  a few  days  after 
his  arrival  at  Biagano,  King  Quengueza,  sovereign  of  a large 
tribe  of  people  living  about  ninety  miles  up  the  river  Eembo, 
and  a man  of  great  influence  in  the  interior,  came  on  a visit  to 
the  coast,  lie  was  much  astonished  at  the  sight  of  Du  Chaillu, 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS.  205 

but  soon  became  friendly  and  invited  him  to  visit  his  up-river 
country,  promising  great  sport  and  plenty  of  gorillas. 

The  rainy  season  is  the  most  favorable  time  to  travel  in  the 
interior ; and  as  it  was  now  the  middle  of  the  dry  season, 
Du  Chaillu  resolved  to  postpone  his  visit  to  King  Quengueza 
for  a month  or  two.  In  the  meantime  he  again  ascended  to 
the  Anenguc  Lake,  which  he  found  much  lower  and  smaller, 
reeking  with  the  filth  of  decaying  vegetation,  and  absolutely 
swarming  with  crocodiles.  These  crocodiles  are  killed  by  the 
natives  every  day,  and  constitute  a principal  part  of  their  diet. 
While  hunting  in  the  forest  near  the  Anenguelakc  Du  Chaillu 
discovered  and  shot  a new  and  curious  ape,  the  nshiego 
mbouve.  It  is  about  the  size  of  the  chimpanzee,  and  is  dis- 
tinguished for  the  peculiar  nests,  or  rather  shelters,  which  it 
builds  in  high  trees.  These  shelters  are  made  of  leafy 
branches  which  are  carried  up  and  tied  to  the  tree  with  vines 
in  such  a way  as  to  make  a perfect  oval-shaped,  roof  which 
will  shed  rain.  They  are  built  a few  feet  above  some  con- 
venient limb  on  which  the  nshiego  mbouve  sits  and  sleeps ; 
and  as  soon  as  the  leaves  get  too  dry  to  keep  out  the  rain,  the 
nest  is  abandoned  and  a new  one  built.  The  male  and 
female  do  not  occupy  the  same  tree,  but  have  nests  not  far 
apart. 

Shortly  after  his  return  to  “ Washington the  traveller  had 
an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the  ceremonies  with  which  the 
Camma  “break  mourning-time” — mourning  lasts  from  one  to 
two  years. 

“The  man  who  had  died  left  seven  wives,  a house,  a planta- 
tion, and  other  property.  All  this  the  elder  brother  inherits, 
and  on  him  it  devolves  to  give  the  grand  feast.  For  this  feast 
every  canoe  that  came  brought  jars  of  mimbo  or  palm  wine. 
Sholomba  Jombuai,  the  heir,  had  been  out  for  two  weeks  fish- 
ing, and  now  returned  with  several  canoe  loads  of  dry  fish. 
From  his  plantations  quantities  of  palm  wine  were  brought  in. 
Every  one  in  the  village  furbished  up  his  best  clothes  and 
ornaments.  Drums  and  kettles  were  collected  ; powder  was 
brought  out  for  the  salutes ; and  at  last  all  was  ready  for  bola 
ivoga. 

“ The  wives  of  the  deceased  seemed  quite  jolly,  for 
to-morrow  they  were  to  lay  aside  their  widows’  robes,  and  to 
join  in  the  jollification  as  brides.  Tiie  heir  could  have  married 
them  all,  but  he  had  generously  given  up  two  to  a younger 
brother  and  one  to  a cousin. 

“ At  seven  o’clock  in  the  morning  three  guns  were  fired  off 


206 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


to  announce  that  the  widows  had  done  eating  a certain  mess, 
mixed  of  various  ingredients  supposed  to  have  magical  virtues, 
and  by  which  they  are  released  from  their  widowhood.  They 
now  put  on  bracelets  and  anklets,  and  the  finest  calico  they 
had.  About  nine  all  the  guests  sat  down  on  mats  spread  about 
the  house  of  deceased  and  along  the  main  street.  They  were 
divided  into  little  groups,  and  before  each  was  set  an  immense 
jar  of  miinbo.  All  began  to  talk  pleasantly,  till  suddenly  the 
Biagano  people  fired  off  a volley  of  about  one  hundred  guns. 
This  was  the  signal  for  the  drinking  to  begin.  Men,  women, 
and  children  set  to ; and  from  this  time  till  next  morning  the 
orgies  were  continued  without  interruption.  They  drank,  they 
sung,  they  fired  guns,  and  loaded  them  so  heavily  as  they  got 
tipsy  that  I wonder  the  old  trade-guns  did  not  burst;  they 
drummed  on  everything  that  could  possibly  give  out  a noise ; 
they  shouted ; and  the  women  danced — such  dances  as  are  not 
seen  elsewhere.  They  are  indecent  in  their  best  moments. 
The  reader  may  imagine  what  they  were  when  every  woman 
was  furiously  tipsy,  and  thought  it  a point  of  honor  to  be  more 
bawdy  than  her  neighbor. 

“ Next  day,  about  sunrise,  Jombuai  came  to  ask  me  to  assist 
at  the  concluding  ceremony.  Ilis  brother’s  house  was  to  be 
torn  down  and  burned.  When  1 came  they  fired  guns,  and 
then,  in  a moment,  hacked  the  old  house  to  pieces  with  axes 
and  cutlasses.  When  the  ruins  were  burned  the  feast  was 
done.  And  this  is  to  go  out  of  mourning  among  the  Gam- 
ma.” 

Late  in  January,  1858,  Du  Chaillu  received  another  invita- 
tion from  King  Quengueza  to  visit  Goumbi,  coupled  with  a 
promise  to  escort  him  to  the  far  interior;  and  on  the  26th  of 
February  set  out  on  his  journey  up  the  Fernand  Vaz,  which  is 
known  in  its  upper  course  as  the  Rembo.  Goumbi,  Quen- 
gueza’s  town,  is  ninety-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  was  reached  without  incident  on  February  29tli.  Quen- 
gueza welcomed  his  guest  very  warmly,  holding  a state  recep- 
tion and  introducing  him  to  all  his  people  with  the  announce- 
ment that  this  was  “ the  king’s  white  man,”  and  that  whoever 
harmed  him  or  his  goods  should  pay  for  it  with  his  life. 
Goumbi  is  the  last  Camma  town  on  the  river,  but  Quengueza 
has  vassels  among  the  Bakalai,  who  are  next  above,  and  in 
fact,  much  farther  into  the  interior.  While  preparations  were 
being  made  for  the  journey  up  the  river,  Du  Chaillu  amused 
himself  with  hunting.  On  the  8th  a large  female  gorilla  was 
killed,  and  on  the  11th  a young  one  was  captured.  It  was  too 


DU  CHAILLU' S EXPLORATIONS.  207 

young  to  l>e  taken  from  the  breast,  however,  and  died  ten  days 
afterward. 

At  last  on  the  22d,  Du  ('hailiu  and  the  king,  with  a large 
retinue,  set  out  for  the  village  of  Obindji,  a friendly  chief  of 
the  Ilakalai,  living  about  fifty  miles  up  the  Rembo.  This  vil- 
lage was  to  be  their  headquarters  for  a while,  and  was  reached 
late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day.  When  the  party  ap- 
proached the  shore,  tiring  guns  and  singing  songs,  Obindji 
came  down  in  great  state,  dressed  in  a silk  hat  (his  crown),  a 
coat  and  shirt,  and  a nice  cloth.  ITe  was  ringing  his  kendo,  a 
bell,  which  is  the  insignia  of  kingship  here, — something  like  a 
royal  sceptre.  Then  the  two  kings,  with  Du  Chaillu,  entered 
the  town  amid  the  rejoicings  of  the  people. 

Du  Chaillu  spent  some  weeks  hunting  in  the  woods  about 
Obindji's  town,  and  discovered  still  another  new  ape — the 
Kool.oo-kam.ba,  The  Kooloo-kamha  is  not  very  much  smaller 
than  the  gorilla  (the  specimen  killed  bv  Du  Chaillu  was  four 
feet  three  inches  high),  but  it  is  much  less  powerful,  and  not 
so  fierce.  It  has  a very  round  head,  whiskers  running  quite 
round  the  face  and  under  the  chin,  prominent  cheek-bones 
and  sunken  cheeks,  and  jaws  not  very  prominent — less  so  than 
in  any  of  the  apes.  The  structure  of  the  head,  in  fact,  more 
nearly  approaches  man  than  any  other  of  the  large  apes.  On 
the  20th  of  April,  he  killed  another  large  gorilla — one  of  the 
largest  he  had  yet  seen.  Its  height  was  five  feet  six  inches  ; its 
arms  had  a spread  of  seven  feet  two  inches ; and  its  huge, 
brawny  chest  measured  fifty  inches  round. 

On  the  27th  of  April,  Quengneza  and  Du  Chaillu  set  out  up 
the  river,  with  about  twenty  slaves  and  hunters,  for  the  ebony 
country  ; the  former  to  cut  wood,  and  the  latter  to  hunt.  The 
weather  was  excessively  hot,  and  Du  Chaillu  was  prostrated 
with  an  attack  of  fever  which  kept  him  in  bed  for  a week, 
and  left  him  weak  and  nervous.  The  party  spent  a month  in 
the  woods,  and  did  not  return  to  Obindji’s  town  until  May 
28th.  Here  the  people  were  at  starvation-point,  and  on  the 
30th  Du  Chaillu  started  with  one  hundred  men  up  the  river 
for  a Bakalai  town  called  Njali-Condie,  the  chief  of  which 
had  promised  him  some  gorilla  hunts  if  lie  would  make  him  a 
visit.  The  town  was  reached  next  day,  but  one  of  the  super- 
stitious observances  of  the  people  prevented  any  hunting  for 
several  days.  Du  Chaillu  took  this  opportunity  of  going  east- 
ward to  see  Igoumba,  an  Ashira  chief  whom  he  had  seen  at 
Goumbi.  Finally,  on  the  7th  of  June,  they  went  out  on  a 


208 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


gorilla-hunt,  the  tragic  result  of  which  we  will  relate  in  Du 
Ohaillu’s  own  words : 

“ I gave  powder  to  the  whole  party.  Six  were  to  go  off  in 
one  direction  for  bush-deer,  and  whatever  luck  might  send 
them,  and  six  others,  of  whom  I was  one,  were  to  hunt  for 
gorillas.  We  set  off  toward  a dark  valley,  where  Gambo, 
Igouinba’s  son,  said  we  should  find  our  prey.  The  gorilla 
chooses  the  darkest,  gloomiest  forests  for  its  home,  and  is  found 
on  the  edges  of  the  clearings  only  when  in  search  of  plantains, 
or  sugar-cane,  or  pine-apple.  Often  they  choose  for  their 
peculiar  haunt  a piece  of  wood  so  dark  that  even  at  midday 
one  can  scarce  see  ten  yards.  This  makes  it  the  more  neces- 
sary to  -wait  till  the  monstrous  beast  approaches  near  before 
shooting,  in  order  that  the  first  shot  may  be  fatal.  It  does  not 
often  let  the  hunter  reload. 

“ Our  little  party  separated,  as  is  the  custom,  to  stalk  the 
wood  in  various  directions.  Gambo  and  I kept  together.  One 
brave  fellow  went  off  alone  in  a direction  where  he  thought  he 
could  find  a gorilla.  The  other  three  took  another  course. 
We  had  been  about  an  hour  separated  when  Gambo  and  I 
heard  a gun  fired  but  little  way  from  us,  and  presently  an- 
other. We  were  already  on  our  way  to  the  spot  where  wo 
hoped  to  see  a gorilla  slain,  when  the  forest  began  to  resound 
with  the  most  terrific  roars.  Gambo  seized  my  arms  in  great 
agitation,  and  we  hurried  on,  both  filled  with  a dreadful  and 
sickening  fear.  We  had  not  gone  far  when  our  worst  fears 
were  realized.  The  poor  brave  fellow  who  had  gone  off  alone 
was  lying  on  the  ground  in  a pool  of  his  own  blood,  and  I 
thought  at  first  quite  dead.  His  bowels  were  protruding 
through  the  lacerated  abdomen.  Beside  him  lay  his  gun. 
The  stock  was  broken,  and  the  barrel  was  bent  and  flattened. 
It  bore  plainly  the  marks  of  the  gorilla’s  teeth.  , 

“We  picked  him  up,  and  I dressed  his  wounds  as  well  as  I 
could  with  rags  torn  from  my  clothes.  When  I had  given 
him  a little  brandy  to  drink  he  came  to  himself,  and  was  able, 
but  with  great  difficulty,  to  speak.  He  said  that  he  had  met 
the  gorilla  suddenly  and  face  to  face,  and  that  it  had  not  at- 
tempted to  escape.  It  was,  he  said,  a huge  male,  and  seemed 
very  savage.  It  was  in  a very  gloomy  part  of  the  wood,  and 
the  darkness,  I suppose,  made  him  miss.  He  said  he  took 
good  aim,  and  fired  when  the  beast  was  only  about  eight  yards 
off.  The  ball  merely  wounded  it  in  the  side.  It  at  once  be- 
gan beating  its  breasts,  and  with  the  greatest  rage  advanced 
upon  him. 


DU  CILULLU'S  EXPLORATIONS.  209 

“ To  run  away  was  impossible.  Tie  would  have  been  caught 
iu  the  jungle  before  he  had  gone  a dozen  steps. 

“ lie  stood  his  ground,  and  as  (juickly  as  he  could  reloaded 
his  gun.  Just  as  lie  raised  it  to  tire  the  gorilla  dashed  it  out 
of  his  hands,  the  gun  going  off  in  the  fall,  and  then  in  an 
instant,  and  with  a terrible  roar,  the  animal  gave  him  a tre- 
mendous blow  with  its  immense  open  paw,  frightfully  lacera- 
ting the  abdomen,  and  with  this  single  blow  laying  bare  part 
of  the  intestines.  As  he  sank,  bleeding,  to  the  ground,  the 
monster  seized  the  gun,  and  the  poor  hunter  thought  he  would 
have  his  brains  dashed  out  with  it.  But  the  gorilla  seemed  to 
have  looked  upon  this  also  as  an  enemy,  and  in  his  rage  flat- 
tened the  barrel  between  his  strong  jaws. 

“ When  we  came  upon  the  ground  the  gorilla  was  gone. 
This  is  their  mode  when  attacked — to  strike  one  or  two  blows 
and  then  leave  the  victims  of  their  rage  on  the  ground  and  go 
off  into  the  woods.” 

On  the  10th  they  killed  a large  gorilla,  and  on  the  10th  of 
July  a second  one  which  proved  to  be  of  immense  size.  On 
the  13th  of  Jnty,  Du  Ohaillu  set  out  on  his  return  to  Obindji’s 
town.  The  dry  season,  in  the  midst  of  which  they  now  were, 
was  very  unfavorable  for  travelling;  the  fever  was  wasting  his 
strength,  and  his  supplies  were  fast  giving  out.  He  resolved, 
therefore,  to  return  to  the  coast,  and  recruit  his  health  before 
making  a final  effort  to  penetrate  beyond  the  Bakalai  to  the 
eastward.  lie  reached  Biagano  on  August  13th,  and  was  im- 
mediately prostrated  with  such  an  obstinate  attack  of  fever 
that  he  was  obliged  to  avail  himself  of  the  first  passing  vessel 
and  sail  for  the  Gaboon. 

Before  resuming  the  narrative,  we  will  summarize  the  trav- 
eller’s account  of  the  Bakalai,  the  people  among  whom  he 
spent  the  greater  portion  of  his  time  during  the  expedition 
just  outlined.  They  are  one  of  the  most  numerous  and  widely 
extended  tribes  in  Equatorial  Africa.  Their  settlements  are 
found  from  the  Muni  on  the  north  to  the  Fernand  Vaz  on  the 
south,  and  from  the  sea-shore  to  the  country  of  the  Apingi. 
To  the  north  they  approach  the  sea-shore,  and  live  on  the 
rivers ; but  farther  south  they  recede  from  the  coast  and  are 
met  farther  inland.  Their  settlements  are  widely  scattered, 
and  they  are  often  found  living  in  independent  towns  in 
regions  chiefly  occupied  by  other  tribes.  The  Bakalai  are  of 
ordinary  size,  and  the  men  are  generally  well  made.  They 
are  not  very  black,  though  they  have  full  negro  features. 
They  are  not  very  strong,  chiefly  because  they  live  poorly ; 

14 


210 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


but  they  have  great  powers  of  endurance,  and  on  this  account 
make  excellent  hunters.  Considering  their  numerous  super- 
stitions and  their  poor  marksmanship,  they  are  brave  fellows  on 
the  hunt.  To  face  a gorilla,  and  calmly  await  his  approach 
till  you  know  that  if  you  miss  him  you  will  certainly  be  his 
prey,  must  be  counted  an  act  of  no  common  courage.  And 
this  is  the  manner  in  which  the  Bakalai  hunt  this  terrible 
breast. 

Wives  and  slaves  are  their  only  property.  A man’s  stand- 
ing is  according  to  the  number  of  his  wives.  As  soon  as  a 
Bakalai  has  acquired  some  “ white  man’s  goods  ” in  return  for 
ivory  or  ebony,  he  immediately  sets  out  to  buy  a new  wife. 
They  generally  prefer  to  marry  very  young  girls ; and  often 
young  children  are  regularly  bargained  away.  In  this  case 
they  remain  with  their  parents  till  the  age  of  puberty.  The 
duties  of  a wife  are  to  labor  for  her  husband,  to  cook  for  him, 
to  work  in  the  fields,  and  to  be  generally  his  beast  of  burden 
and  superior  slave.  When  the  husband  dies,  his  wives  and 
slaves  are  divided  among  his  relatives;  his  brothers  taking 
preference,  but  even  his  sons  inheriting  sometimes.  It  is  a 
curious  fact,  that,  though  they  will  take  their  brother’s  or 
father’s  wives  in  marriage,  they  will  not  marry  a woman  of  the 
sam z family  or  clan  with  themselves.  This  is  the  case,  also, 
among  other  tribes. 

Of  slaves  the  Bakalai  have  not  many.  The  wants  of  the 
white  traders  on  the  coast,  and  their  own  need  for  white  men’s 
goods,  make  them  sell  most  of  those  they  get  to  the  tribes 
nearer  the  coast.  People  caught  in  adultery — particularly 
with  a “head  wife” — are  sold  into  slavery  in  certain  cases. 
Those  accused  of  sorcery  are  killed  or  sold  into  slavery.  Also 
a debtor  may  be  sold  by  his  creditor. 

Their  costume  is  very  light.  Where  they  can  get  American 
or  European  goods,  they  so  greatly  prefer  those,  that  a Bakalai 
will  wear  a filthy  rag  of  cotton  print  for  months  without  wash- 
ing, rather  than  throw  it  aside  for  a clean  native  grass-cloth 
wrapper.  The  women  are  extravagantly  fond  of  European 
beads,  and  wear  also  anklets  and  bracelets  of  copper  or  iron. 
The  rude  mat  which  is  worn  round  the  middle  by  the  men  is 
made  of  grass,  and  very  ingeniously  constructed.  But  the 
fine  grass-cloth,  some  of  which  is  very  beautiful,  is  not  made 
among  them.  That  they  get  from  the  Ashira,  a people  farther 
inland,  or  from  other  interior  tribes.  They  are,  like  all  the 
tribes  of  this  region,  great  traders,  and  are  proficients  in  the  art 
of  lying, — the  most  important  qualification  of  a merchant 


DU  CIIAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


21 1 


hereabouts.  They  arc  fond  of  music  of  certain  kinds.  The 
tam-tam,  or  drum,  is  used  for  all  dances  and  ceremonials;  but 
they  have  also  a guitar,  and  a harp  of  eight  strings — an  in- 
genious instrument  on  which  some  of  them  play  with  great 
skill.  Some  of  their  airs  are  really  pretty,  though  sad  and 
monotonous. 

The  most  peculiar  trait  of  the  Bakalai,  which  distinguishes 
them  from  other  tribes  with  whom  they  are  intermixed,  is  their 
roving  character.  They  never  6tay  long  in  one  place.  A 
Bakalai  village  is  scarce  built — often  the  plantations  have 
not  borne  fruit  the  first  time — when  the}7  feel  impelled  to 
move.  Then  everything  is  abandoned ; they  gather  up  what 
few  stores  of  provisions  they  may  have,  and  start  off,  often  for 
great  distances,  to  make  with  infinite  pains  a new  settlement, 
which  will  be  abandoned  in  turn  sometimes  after  a few  months  ; 
though  sometimes  they  remain  a year  or  two,  and  even  more, 
in  the  same  place.  Thus,  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Gaboon 
and  its  tributaries,  the  favorable  position  for  trade  obliges  them 
to  remain  in  the  same  neighborhood.  But  even  there  they  shift 
from  one  place  to  another,  distant  only  a mile  or  two  from 
each  other. 

Many  things  contribute  to  this  roving  tendency,  but  first  of 
all  is  their  great  fear  of  death.  They  dread  to  see  a dead  per- 
son. Their  sick,  unless  they  have  very  good  and  near  friends, 
are  often  driven  out  of  the  village  to  die  in  loneliness  in  the 
forest.  When  a man  dies  in  Bakalai  village  the  stability  of 
that  settlement  has  received  a violent  shock.  If  a second  dies, 
then  the  people  at  once  move  away.  They  think  the  place  be- 
witched ; they  fancy  death,  dreaded  death,  stalking  in  their 
midst.  A doctor  is  called,  who  goes  through  his  incantations, 
and  some  poor  wretch  is  condemned  to  drink  the  mboundou. 
Often  several  friendless  creatures  are  accused  and  condemned 
in  a breath,  and  murdered  in  cold  blood.  Then  the  village  is 
broken  up ; the  people  set  out  again  upon  their  wanderings, 
and  fix  upon  some  lonely  spot  for  new  plantations  and  a new 
home.  “ It  is  as  though  they  were  all  their  lives  vainly  flee- 
ing from  the  dread  face  of  death.  This,  indeed,  is  the  refrain 
of  all  their  sad  songs,  the  burden  of  every  fear.  Having  little 
else  to  lose,  they  seem  to  dread,  more  than  any  other  people  I ever 
saw,  the  loss  of  life.  And  no  wonder ; for  after  death  is  to 
them  nothing.  ‘ Death  is  the  end.’  ‘ Now  we  live ; by  and  by 
we  shall  die ; then  we  shall  be  no  more.’  ‘ lie  is  gone ; we 
shall  never  see  him  more;  we  shall  never  shake  his  hand 
again;  we  shall  never  hear  him  laugh  again.’  This  is  the 


212 


DU  CRAILL U'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


dolorous  burden  of  their  evening  and  morning  song.”  And 
jet,  by  a strange  contradiction,  they  are  extravagantly  super- 
stitions. Believing  that  there  is  no  life  beyond  this,  they  yet 
fancy  a ghost  or  spirit  in  every  moving  tree  or  bush  after  night, 
and  in  the  twilight  hour  are  sometimes  overpowered  with  an 
undefinable  dread,  which  makes  them  fear  to  come  even  out- 
side their  huts. 

Another  cause  of  fear  is  their  treacherous  and  quarrelsome 
disposition.  They  are  constantly  quarrelling  with  their  neigh- 
bors. Many  of  their  quarrels  and  palavers  arise  about  women. 
Polygamy  prevails  extensively;  female  chastity  is  not  valued, 
except  as  an  article  of  merchandise ; the  women  have  great 
freedom  and  an  intriguing  spirit,  and  the  consequence  is  that 
a faithful  wife  is  an  unheard  of  thing.  The  crime  of  adultery 
with  a head- wife,  however,  is  considered  a very  serious  misde- 
meanor, for  which  the  offender  may  be  heavily  fined  if  he  is 
rich,  sold  into  slavery  if  he  is  poor,  or  perhaps  killed.  Now, 
when  a man  is  caught  in  such  a difficulty,  he  makes  his  escape, 
if  possible,  to  the  next  village.  It  is  considered  dishonorable 
to  give  up  a fngutive,  and  if  he  gets  safely  there  he  is  safe  for 
the  time.  Then  begins  quarrelling,  succeeded  presently  by 
murder  ; then  the  curious  process  of  securing  allies  by  killing 
some  inhabitant  of  the  village  from  which  they  require  assist- 
ance, breeds  more  murder  and  retaliation,  and  so  in  a few  days 
a large  tract  of  country  is  interested  in  a quarrel,  and  fights 
and  assassinations  continue  till  some  villages  are  almost 
annihilated,  and  others  are  removed  afar  off,  only  to  be  mixed 
up  with  new  strifes. 

When  war  has  really  broken  out  in  the  country  once,  there 
is  no  rest  nor  safety.  No  man  or  woman  in  any  village  can 
take  a step  in  any  direction,  day  or  night,  without  fear  of  death. 
They  lay  ambuscades  to  surprise  each  other’s  villages.  They 
shoot  through  the  tree-bark  of  which  their  houses  are  made,  and 
kill  sleeping  persons.  They  use  every  unfair  means  of  warfare ; 
and  the  meaner  the  attack  and  the  greater  the  treachery,  the 
more  glory  they  have  won.  In  such  times  of  war  fires  are  put 
out  after  dark,  because  they  give  light  to  the  enemy ; the  peo- 
ple keep  a dead  silence,  lest  their  voices  should  betray  their 
whereabouts;  the  hunters  fear  to  hunt,  the  women  and  slaves 
to  plant,  and,  in  consequence,  everybody  is  in  a condition  of 
semi-starvation.  This  lasts  sometimes  for  months.  At  last 
whole  districts  are  depopulated ; those  who  are  not  killed  desert 
their  villages,  and  all,  perishing  with  hunger,  move  far  away 
from  the  fatal  spot. 


DU  CHAILLU' S EXPLORATIONS. 


213 


Like  all  the  neighboring  tribes  they  know  nothing  of  reme- 
dies for  any  form  of  disease.  When  a man  is  sick  lie  is  left  to 
nature.  If  lie  dies  it  is  witchcraft.  They  cannot  believe  that 
a mail  can  die  in  the  prime  of  life  from  purely  natural  causes. 

After  a month  or  so  at  the  Gaboon,  Du  Chaillu  found  his 
health  restored  sufficiently  to  justify  another  attempt  to  pene- 
trate the  interior.  lie  returned  accordingly  to  Biagauo,  or 
'Washington,  and  ascended  the  river  to  Groumbi,  which  was 
reached  on  the  13th  of  October,  1858.  King  Quengueza  was 
very  glad  to  have  him  back,  and  gave  him  thirty-five  men  to 
accompany  him  on  the  proposed  journey  to  Ashira-land.  On 
the  22d  they  set  out  for  Obindji’s  town,  which  was  reached  on 
the  20th;  here  the  party  was  joined  by  two  Bakalai  and  several 
Asliira  men,  one  of  whom  was  to  act  as  guide.  Early  on  the 
27th  they  left  Obindji’s  town  behind  them,  and  after  a march 
of  two  days  nearly  due  east  over  a mountainous  and  very 
rugged  country,  covered  with  a dense  forest,  emerged  later  in 
the  afternoon  upon  the  great  Ashira  prairie-land,  dotted  plenti- 
fully with  villages,  which  looked  in  the  distance  like  ant-heaps. 
“ I stood  for  a long  time,”  says  Du  Chaillu,  “on  the  edge  of  a 
bluff,  taking  in  this,  one  of  tiie  finest  landscapes  I ever  saw  in 
my  life.  Far  as  the  eye  could  reach  was  a high  rolling  prairie. 
As  I afterwards  discovered,  the  plain  is  about  55  miles  long  by 
10  wide.  All  over  this  vast  plain  were  scattered  collections  of 
little  Ashira  huts.  The  hills  and  valleys  were  streaked  with  little 
ribbon -1  five  paths,  and  here  and  there  the  eye  caught  the  silver 
sheen  of  a brook  winding  along  through  the  elevated  land.  In 
the  far  distance  loomed  up  mountains  higher  than  any  I had 
yet  seen,  and  whose  peaks  were  lost  in  the  clouds.  It  was  a 
grand  sight.” 

In  order  to  make  a properly  impressive  entry  into  Ashira- 
land,  Okcndjo  sent  two  men  ahead  to  announce  that  “ the 
spirit  ” was  coming  to  see  them,  and  that  he  (Okendjo)  had 
been  selected  as  his  guide. 

“ Soon,  in  the  nearest  village,  we  began  to  see  people  moving 
about  hurriedly,  and  in  about  half  an  hour  the  whole  plain 
knew  something  had  occurred.  Meantime  those  nearest  us 
came  out  to  meet  us,  and  we  moved  forward  to  them.  When 
they  saw  me,  all  stopped,  and  flic  majority  turned  back  with 
awe  and  alarm  depicted  on  their  faces.  "We  continued  to  ad- 
vance slowly.  It  was  nearly  dusk  when  we  entered  the  near- 
est village.  But  very  few  of  the  people  dared  to  approach 
me  ; and  even  those  took  to  flight  if  I fixed  my  eye  upon  them, 
evidently  fearing  I would  do  them  a mischief.  Okcndjo 


214: 


DU  CUAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


walked  ahead  of  me,  proclaiming,  in  a most  magniloquent  man- 
ner, the  many  virtues  of  the  great  white  man  or  spirit  whom 
he  had  brought  to  see  his  countrymen.  And  the  crowd  an- 
swered to  his  words  in  shouts,  ‘ The  tangani  has  come  ! Tho 
spirit  has  come  to  see  our  land — our  land,  which  he  never  saw 
before ! ’ 

“ It  happened  luckily  that  the  chief  of  the  first  village  we 
came  to  was  a brother  of  Okendjo.  Akoonga  met  us  at  the 
entrance  of  his  place,  and  said,  k Is  it  true,  Okendjo,  what  I 
hear,  that  you  bring  to  us  this  man  ? Is  it  not  an  hallucination 
of  iny  mind,  occasioned  by  too  much  palm  wine?  Is  he  the 
white  man  who  makes  the  guns,  the  cloth,  the  beads,  the  brass 
rods,  and  the  copper  rings?  ’ 

“ Okendjo  replied,  ‘ He  is  the  man.  This  is  lie  of  whom 
you  have  heard  so  much.  He  comes  from  a far  country  to  see 
us.’ 

“ Then  the  people  shouted  out  their  surprise.  A house  was 
given  me,  and  when  I had  taken  possession  the  chief  came,  fol- 
lowed by  ten  of  his  wives,  each  bearing  two  bunches  of  plan- 
tains, which,  with  fear  and  trembling,  they  deposited  at  my 
feet.  Next  were  brought  four  goats,  twenty  fowls,  several 
baskets  of  ground-nuts,  and  many  bunches  of  sugar-cane. 

“ When  these  were  delivered,  Akoonga  said  to  Okendjo, 
1 Tell  the  spirit  that  I thank  him  that  he  stays  in  my  village  a 
night.  Tell  him  he  is  welcome,  and  all  those  who  follow  him. 
lie  is  the  master  while  he  is  here.  This  food  is  for  him.  As 
for  his  people,  my  women  will  cook  for  them.’ 

“ I thanked  him. 

“ Then,  showing  me  the  house,  he  said,  £ It  is  your  house ; 
my  wives  are  yours ; my  slaves  are  yours ; my  people  are 
yours.’ 

“ Then,  at  last,  I had  a chance  to  refresh  myself  with  supper. 
After  supper,  being  tired,  1 lay  down,  but  was  not  yet  asleep 
when  I heard  the  chief  say  to  his  people,  ‘ Be  silent;  do  not 
trouble  the  spirit ; do  not  speak  lest  you  awake  him.  Our  fore- 
fathers nor  ourselves  ever  saw  such  a wonder  as  this.’ 

u The  consequence  of  this  kind  and  very  unusual  forethought 
was  that  I enjoyed  a very  good  night’s  rest 

**  In  the  morning,  Olenda,  the  king  or  head  chief  of  tho 
Ashiras,  sent  two  messengers  with  presents  of  goats  and  plan- 
tains, and  a desire  that  I should  come  to  his  town.  I sent  back 
word  that  I would  the  day  after  to-morrow ; to-day  my  feet 
were  too  sore.  The  king  sent  word  that  I should  be  carried  if  I 
would  come.  I replied  that  I would  come  on  the  day  I had 


DU  CIIAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS.  215 

appointed.  That  I never  broke  my  word  nor  ever  changed  my 
mind. 

“ Accordingly,  on  November  2d,  early  in  the  morning,  I was 
aroused  by  King  Olenda’s  people,  who  had  come  to  escort  me 
with  singing  and  dancing.  I took  leave  of  Akoonga,  giving 
him  a present  of  one  hundred  yards  of  cloth,  and  some  beads, 
and  an  old  shirt,  whereat  lie  was  hugely  delighted. 

“ My  men  had  now  easy  times.  My  baggage  was  canned  alto- 
gether by  the  Asliira,  who  marched  ahead  singing  wrild  songs 
celebrating  my  arrival  among  them.  After  a journey  of  ten 
miles  over  the  grassy  prairie  we  came  to  Olenda’s  town,  which 
may  be  called  the  capital  of  the  nation.  I was  conducted  to 
the  best  house  in  the  place  ; and,  after  waiting  half  an  hour, 
the  ringing  of  the  Jcendo  announced  the  approach  of  the 
king. 

“At  last  King  Olenda  stood  before  me — a most  surprising 
object  indeed,  lie  was  an  old,  old  man,  with  wool  as  white  as 
snow,  face  a mass  of  wrinkles,  and  bod}',  thin,  lean,  and  bent 
almost  double  with  age.  lie  had  painted  his  haggard  old  face 
red  on  one  side  and  white  on  the  other,  in  streaks,  and,  as  he 
stood  before  me,  I wondered  as  much  at  his  appearance  as  did 
he  at  mine. 

“ When  we  had  looked  at  each  other  for  some  five  minutes  he 
made  me  a formal  address  in  Asliira,  which  was  translated  for 
me  by  Okendjo.  He  said  : ‘ I have  no  bowels.  I am  like  the 
Ovenga  llivcr ; I cannot  be  cut  in  two.  But  also  I am  like 
theNicmbai  and  Ovenga  rivers,  which  unite  together.  Thus 
my  body  is  united,  and  nothing  can  divide  it.’ 

“ This  gibberish,  which  may  possibly  have  had  some  mystic 
significance  at  one  time,  I afterward  discovered  was  the  regular 
and  invariable  salutation  of  the  Asliira  kings,  Olenda’s  prede- 
cessors, time  out  of  mind.  Each  chief  and  important  person 
has  such  a salutation,  which  they  call  l 'combo . 

“Then  he  continued:  ‘You,  the  spirit,  have  come  to  see 
Olenda.  You,  the  spirit,  have  put  your  feet  where  none  like 
you  have  ever  been.  You  are  welcome.’ 

“ Here  the  old  king’s  son,  also  a very  old  negro,  with  snow- 
white  wool,  handed  over  to  the  king  two  slaves,  which  the  king 
formally  presented  to  me,  together  with  three  goats,  twenty 
bunches  of  plantains,  twenty  fowls,  five  baskets  of  ground-nuts, 
and  several  bunches  of  sugar-cane. 

“ ‘ This,’  said  he,  ‘is  to  salute  you.  Whatever  else  you  want, 
tell  me.  I am  the  king  of  this  country.  Whatever  else  you 
wish,  let  it  be  known  to  me.’ 


216 


DU  CHAILL U'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


“I  replied  that  slaves  I did  not  want,  but  that  if  any  of  his 
people  were  on  the  coast,  I should  be  glad  to  have  them  taught 
in  the  knowledge  of  the  white  man,  that  they  might  come  and 
tell  it  to  their  people. 

“ Then  more  of  the  old  man's  children  came,  all  old,  and 
wrinkled,  and  white-headed  men.  They  stood  before  me, 
regarding  me  with  wonder  and  awe ; while  the  people,  of  whom 
thousands  were  gathered  from  all  the  villages  of  the  plain,  looked 
on  in  silence  and  expressed  their  surprise  in  whispers. 

“At  last  the  old  king  turned  to  his  people  and  said:  ‘I  liave 
seen  many  things  in  my  life,  and  many  wonderful  things,  and 
now  I am  ready  to  die,  for  I have  seen  the  spirit  from  whom 
we  receive  all  things.  It  will  always  be  said  in  our  nation  by 
those  coming  after  us,  that  in  the  time  of  Olenda  the  spirit 
first  appeared  and  dwelt  among  us.  You  are  welcome5  (turn- 
ing to  me).  ‘Keep  this  spirit  well 5 (to  his  people);  ‘he  will 
do  us  good.5 

“ It  was  a very  impressive  scene,  and  all  was  conducted  with 
great  decorum  and  dignity.55 

Du  Chaillu  remained  about  five  weeks  with  the  Ashiras, 
hunting  a large  part  of  the  time,  and,  for  the  rest,  making 
repeated  but  vain  efforts  to  scale  the  lofty  mountain-range 
which  lay  to  the  south-east.  In  one  of  these  attempts  he  had  a 
narrow  escape  from  death  by  starvation.  He  was  accompanied 
on  all  these  excursions  by  some  of  the  Ashiras,  whom  he  declares 
are  the  finest  people  in  Africa.  They  are  invariably  coal- 
black,  differing  in  this  respect  from  their  neighbors,  the 
Bakalai.  The  women  in  particular  have  fine  forms,  and  though 
the}7  have  full  negro  features,  many  of  the  young  women  are 
positively  pleasing  in  appearance  and  graceful  in  carriage. 

The  dress  of  the  men  and  married  women  consists  of  a 
flowing  garment,  made  of  a kind  of  grass-cloth  woven  by 
themselves,  which  covers  most  of  the  person.  But  the  girls 
and  young  women,  till  they  are  married,  are  not  permitted  to 
wear  any  clothing  whatever  except  a narrow  grass-cloth  girdle 
about  the  middle.  The  men,  who  are  not  nearly  so  fine-looking 
as  the  women,  though  they  too  are  superior  to  the  men  of  the 
surrounding  tribes,  wear  on  their  heads  caps  of  grass- thread 
knit  in  a most  beautiful  manner,  something  in  the  style  of  our 
crochet- work.  From  their  shoulders  hangs  a very  pretty  bag 
which  is  used  to  carry  whatever  they  may  have,  which  vve 
would  put  in  our  pockets.  The  women  paint  their  bodies  red 
with  a dye  obtained  from  the  bar-wood  tree.  Both  men  and 
women  are  very  fond  of  copper  ornaments,  such  as  bracelets 


DU  CEAILLU'8  EXPLORATIONS. 


217 


and  anklets,  which  they  manufacture  from  the  copper  brouglit 
liither  from  the  sea-shore.  The  women  are  particularly  fond 
of  wearing  copper  rods  around  their  necks,  which  makes  them 
look  as  if  ready  collared  for  the  slave-market.  Both  sexes 
iile  their  teeth  slightly  in  the  middle,  and  the  result  is  not  un- 
pleasing. The  women  dress  their  hair  in  a peculiar  way,  by 
stringing  their  wool  over  plantain  leaves  or  sticks,  and  building 
it  out  in  the  shape  of  horns  before  and  behind.  The  hair  is 
kept  greasy  with  palm  oil. 

The  Asliira  villages,  of  which  there  are  from  150  to  200 
scattered  over  the  great  plain,  are  neat  and  clean.  The  village 
is  generally  composed  of  one  long  street,  with  houses  on  each 
side,  and  these  streets  are  kept  very  (dean.  The  houses  are 
small,  but  pretty,  and  are  built  of  tree- bark.  Back  of  each 
village  arc  great  plantations,  carried  on  with  much  industry, 
where  tobacco,  peanuts,  plantains,  yams,  and  sugar-cane,  are 
grown  in  quantities  which  makes  this  a land  of  plenty,  where 
no  man  starves. 

The  women  cultivate  the  soil  among  the  Asliira,  as  among 
the  other  tribes,  and  they  are  quite  industrious.  They  do  not 
become  wives  till  they  have  arrived  at  the  age  of  puberty, 
which  is  one  sufficient  reason  for  the  greater  beauty  of  the 
little  nation,  and  for  its  intellectual  superiority,  as  denoted  by 
the  cloth  manufactures,  and  by  their  settled  and  provident 
mode  of  life.  Polygamy  of  course,  prevails ; and  parents  some- 
times sell  their  children,  which  is  not  thought  a crime. 

Among  the  Ashiras,  singularly  enough,  Du  Chaillu  found 
the  Cannabis  Irulica , or  Indian  hemp,  from  which  the  far- 
famed  Eastern  drug  hasheesh  is  made.  The  leaves  are  smoked 
by  them,  with  the  inevitable  result  of  debility  and  insanity. 
Insane  persons  are  not  an  uncommon  spectacle  in  the  Ashira 
villages. 

Du  Chaillu  was  now  very  anxious  to  push  still  farther  into 
the  interior.  Olcnda  was  at  first  strongly  opposed  to  this,  fear- 
ing, as  usual,  that  his  “trade  would  be  interfered  with;  ” but 
at  length  he  gave  his  consent,  and,  what  was  more  important, 
appointed  three  of  his  sons  to  accompany  the  traveller  to  the 
land  of  Apingi,  with  whom  the  Ashira  keep  up  a friendly  in- 
tercourse. All  things  being  in  readiness,  and  the  king  having 
formally  blessed  his  sons,  the  party  set  out  on  the  morning  of 
December  6th,  travelling  in  a direction  a little  north  of  east. 
The  same  day  they  crossed  the  Ovigui,  a rapid  stream  about 
thirty  yards  wide  which  forms  the  boundary  of  Ashira-land. 
The  route  from  this  point  was  over  a very  rugged  country, 


218 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


consisting  of  almost  precipitous  hills  alternating  with  plains 
and  valleys  all  covered  with  dense  forests.  Game  was  abun- 
dant, and  on  the  7tli  two  gorillas  were  killed,  one  a large  male 
five  feet  eight  inches  high.  On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  they 
came  at  last,  through  a sudden  opening  in  the  forest,  upon  the 
Apingi  River  (Rembo  Apingi),  a magnificent  river,  350  yards 
wide.  On  the  opposite  side  were  the  Apingi  villages;  and 
as  the  natives  had  had  warning  of  the  approach  of  the  travel- 
lers, they  were  at  once  ferried  across  and  escorted  iuto  the 
nearest  town,  which  happened  to  be  the  residence  of  King  Re- 
mand ji. 

Du  Cliaillu  was  soon  safely  housed  in  the  largest  house  in 
town ; and  presently  Remandji  came  to  him  followed  by  all 
the  old  men  of  his  town  and  the  chiefs  from  the  neighboring 
villages.  “ He  brought  me,”  says  Du  Cliaillu,  “ two  dozen 
fowls,  and  some  bunches  of  plantains,  and  baskets  of  cassava, 
which  being  laid  at  my  feet,  he  addressed  me,  saying : ‘ I have 
beheld  what  our  forefathers  never  saw,  what  I never  saw 
before.  I bid  welcome  to  thee,  oh  white  man ! oh  spirit ! I 
thank  your  father/  turning  to  Minsho,  ‘for  sending  this  spirit 
to  me,  for  nothing  greater  could  happen  to  us.’  Then  he  said . 
‘Be  glad,  oh  spirit!  and  eat  of  the  things  we  give  thee.’ 
Whereupon,  to  my  astonishment,  a slave  was  handed  over  to 
me  bound,  and  Remandji  said:  ‘Kill  him  for  your  evening 
meal ; he  is  tender  and  fat,  and  you  must  be  hungry .’  It  took 
me  a moment  to  recover  from  my  astonishment.  Then  I 
shook  my  head,  spat  violently  on  the  ground,  and  made  Minsho 
tell  him  that  I abhorred  the  people  who  ate  human  flesh,  and 
that  I and  my  people  never  did  so.  To  which  Remandji 
replied : ‘ We  always  heard  that  you  white  men  eat  men.  Why 
do  you  buy  our  people?  Why  do  you  come  from  nobody 
knows  where,  and  carry  off  our  men,  and  women,  and  chil- 
dren ? Do  you  not  fatten  them  in  your  far  country  and  eat 
them?  Therefore,  I gave  you  this  slave,  that  you  might  kill 
him,  and  make  glad  your  heart.,  It  was  a difficult  matter  to 
explain  to  the  king  that  he  was  much  mistaken,  and  that  we 
d > not  eat  our  slaves.  The  whole  matter  from  his  point  of 
view,  was  absurb.  ‘ If  we  did  not  eat  them,  what  did  we 
want  them  for?’  was  his  incessant  question;  nor  could  his 
majesty  be,  by  any  skill  of  mine,  inducted  into  the  mysteries  of 
our  labor-system,  and  its  rules  of  demand  and  supply.” 

The  Apingi  are,  for  Africa,  a very  industrious  people.  The 
men  really  do  some  worh , a thing  unheard  of  among  most  of 
the  native  tribes.  They  use  the  fibrous  parts  of  the  leaf  of  a 


DU  CIIAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


219 


palm,  which  grows  in  great  abundance  here,  to  make  a fine 
grass-cloth,  for  which  they  are  noted  among  all  the  surround- 
ing tribes,  and  which  sometimes  finds  its  way  even  to  the 
coast.  The  pnlms  from  whose  leaves  the  cloth  is  made,  are 
planted  about  all  their  houses,  and  are  property  which  only  the 
owner  may  use ; and  the  possession  of  fixed  property  of  any 
kind,  shows  that  the  Apingi  have  made  an  important  step  in 
advance  of  the  Bakalai,  Mpongwc,  and  similar  tribes. 


WEDDING  PREPARATIONS  AMONG  THE  APINGL 


Both  men  and  women  file  the  teeth  to  a point,  which  gives 
tlieir  faces  a frightfully  savage  appearance.  In  color  they 
are  yellowish-black,  lighter  than  the  Ashira.  The  women  are 
much  smaller  than  the  men  and  hideously  ugly ; but  they  seem 
very  fruitful,  and  large  families  are  the  rule.  The  men  are 
almost  fully  clothed,  but  the  women  go  nearly  naked,  and  seem 
to  be  destitute  of  all  traces  of  personal  modesty — as  the  fol- 
lowing incident  related  by  Du  Chaillu,  will  show : Ile- 

mandji’s  head-wife  or  queen,  a rather  pretty  young  woman 


220 


DU  CHAILLU' S EXPLORATIONS. 


after  the  Apingi  custom,  came  with  her  husband  one  day  to 
see  me.  I gave  her  a piece  of  bright  cotton  cloth,  which  de- 
lighted her  so  much  that  she  immediately  began,  to  my  great 
dismay,  to  disrobe  herself,  in  order  to  put  on  my  present.  But, 
when  she  had  reduced  herself  to  a state  of  nature,  something 
else  of  my  goods  attracted  her  attention,  and  she  began  to  talk 
and  look  around  her  with  the  most  complete  unconcern  for 
quite  a while,  before  she  bethought  her  of  the  neglected  cloth, 
with  which  she  endued  herself  very  leisurely.” 

Du  Chaillu  was  regarded  by  the  Apingi  as  a “ spirit”  from 
some  superior  world,  and  they  elected  him  king — Remandji 
being  as  eager  for  it  as  any  of  his  subjects — in  the  hope  that 
this  would  induce  him  to  stay  with  them  and  make  them  plenty 
of  beads  and  other  “trade,”  without  their  being  under  the 
necessity  of  exchanging  their  cloth  and  ebony  for  them.  They 
were  tirmly  persuaded  that  he  could  do  this  through  the  instru- 
mentality of  a powerful  spirit  which  he  possessed,  in  the  shape 
of  an  old  American  clock  ; and  they  actually  assembled  in  im- 
mense numbers  one  day  expecting  to  sec  him  make  a pile  of 
beads  as  high  as  the  highest  tree,  from  which  they  could  help 
themselves.  He  was  formally  invested  with  the  kendo,  or  bell, 
on  the  18th  of  December;  but  his  loyal  subjects  soon  had  the 
mortification  of  seeing  that  his  new  office  put  no  restraint  upon 
his  roving  proclivities.  On  the  29th  he  set  out  to  the  east- 
ward in  the  hope  of  reaching  the  country  of  the  Asliangos, 
which  he  was  told  was  only  three  days’  journey  distant.  He 
pressed  forward  for  five  days  without  coming  to  any  settle- 
ments, and  was  then  compelled  to  turn  back,  reaching  Re- 
mandji’s  town  again  on  the  5th  of  January,  1859. 

This  was  the  end  of  Du  Chaillu’s  explorations  in  Africa. 
He  started  on  his  return  to  the  coast  on  January  16th;  reached 
Obindji’s  town  on  the  24th,  and  Biagano  on  the  10th  of  Febru- 
ary. llere  he  spent  long  months  in  waiting  for  a ship  to  take 
him  back  to  friends  and  civilization;  but  on  the  1st  of  June 
he  was  once  more  on  shipboard  and  his  travels  ended.* 

Next  to  his  geographical  and  ethnological  discoveries,  the 
study  which  he  made  of  the  character  and  habits  of  the  gorilla 
was  the  most  important  result  of  Du  Chaillu’s  explorations. 
The  existence  of  such  an  animal  had  been  suspected,  and  per- 


* Between  the  years  1863  and  1865,  Du  Chaillu  again  travelled  in  Africa, 
penetrating  the  interior  as  far  as  Ashango-land ; bnt  the  object  of  this  trip 
was  simply  to  confirm  the  facts  rehearsed  in  the  foregoing  pages— some  of 
which  had  excited  unreasonable  and  unreasoning  hostility  in  England. 


DU  C II A ILL  U 'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


221 


I nips*  proved  fit  an  earlier  date;  hut  Du  Chaillu  was  the  first 
white  man  to  penetrate  to  its  native  haunts  and  to  write  of  it 
from  personal  knowledge.  His  account,  of  this  strange  animal 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  important  of  recent  contri- 
butions to  natural  history  ; — which  is  our  excuse  for  reproduc- 
ing the  substance  of  it  here  : 

“ The  gorilla  lives  in  the  darkest  portions  of  the  dense  Afri- 
can jungle,  preferring  deep  wooded  valleys  and  also  rugged 
heights.  The  high  plains  also,  whose  surface  is  strewn  with 
immense  boulders,  seem  to  be  favorite  haunts.  Water  is  found 
everywhere  in  this  part  of  Africa,  but  I have  noticed  that  the 
gorilla  is  always  found  very  near  to  a plentiful  supply. 

“ It  is  a restless  and  nomadic  beast,  wandering  from  place  to 
place,  and  scarce  ever  found  for  two  days  together  in  the  same 
neighborhood.  In  part,  this  restlessness  is  caused  by  the  strug- 
gle it  has  to  find  its  favorite  food.  The  gorilla,  though  it  lias 
such  immense  canines,  and  though  its  vast  strength  doubtless 
fits  it  to  capture  and  kill  almost  every  animal  which  frequents 
the  forests,  is  a strict  vegetarian.  I examined  the  stomachs  of 
all  which  I was  lucky  enough  to  kill,  and  never  found  traces 
there  of  aught  but  berries,  pine-apple  leaves,  and  other  vegeta- 
ble matter.  It  is  a huge  feeder,  and  no  doubt  soon  cats  up  the 
scant  supply  of  its  natural  food  which  is  found  in  any  limited 
space,  and  is  then  forced  to  wander  on  in  constant  battle  with 
famine.  Its  vast  paunch,  which  swells  before  it  when  it  stands 
upright,  proves  it  to  be  a great  feeder;  and,  indeed,  its  great 
frame  and  enormous  muscular  development  could  not  be  sup- 
ported on  little  food. 

“ It  is  not  true  that  it  lives  much  or  at  all  on  trees.  By  the 
examination  of  the  stomach  of  many  specimens,  1 was  able  to 
ascertain  with  tolerable  certainty  the  nature  of  its  food,  and  I 
discovered  that  for  all  I found  it  had  no  need  to  ascend  trees. 
It  is  fond  of  the  wild  sugar-cane;  especially  fond  of  the  white 
ribs  of  the  pine-apple  leaf ; and  it  eats,  besides,  certain  berries 
which  grow  close  to  the  ground ; the  pith  of  some  trees,  and  a 
kind  of  nut  with  a very  hard  shell.  This  shell  is  so  hard  that 
it  requires  a strong  blow  with  a heavy  hammer  to  break  it; 
and  here  is  probably  one  purpose  of  that  enormous  strength  of 
jaw  which  long  seemed  to  me  thrown  away  on  a non-carnivorous 
animal,  and  which  is  sufficiently  evidenced  by  the  manner  in 
which  the  barrel  of  the  musket  of  one  of  my  unfortunate  hun- 
ters was  flattened  by  an  enraged  male  gorilla.  Only  the  young 
gorillas  sleep  on  trees,  for  protection  from  wild  beasts.  I have 
myself  come  upon  fresh  traces  of  a gorilla’s  bed  on  several  oc- 


222 


DU  CHAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


easions,  and  could  see  that  the  male  had  seated  himself  with 
liis  back  against  a tree-trunk.  In  fact,  on  the  back  of  the  male 
gorilla  there  is  generally  a patch  on  which  the  hair  is  worn  thin 
from  this  position,  while  the  nest-building  Troglodytes  calvus , 
or  bald-headed  nshiego , which  constantly  sleeps  under  its  leafy 
shelter  on  a tree-branch,  has  this  bare  place  at  its  side,  and  in 
quite  a different  way.  I believe,  however,  that  while  the  male 
always  sleeps  at  the  foot  of  a tree,  or  elsewhere  on  the  ground, 
the  female  may  sometimes  ascend  to  the  tree-top,  as  I have 
seen  marks  of  such  ascension. 

“ The  gorilla  is  not  gregarious.  Of  adults,  I found  almost  al- 
ways one  male  with  one  female,  though  sometimes  the  old  male 
wanders  companionless.  In  such  cases,  as  with  the  ‘ rogue’ 
elephant,  he  is  particularly  morose  and  malignant,  and  dangerous 
to  approach.  Young  gorillas  I found  sometimes  in  companies 
of  five ; sometimes  less,  but  never  more.  The  young  always 
runs  off,  on  all  fours,  shrieking  with  fear.  They  are  difficult  to 
approach,  as  their  hearing  is  acute,  and  they  lose  no  time  in  mak- 
ing their  escape,  while  the  nature  of  the  ground  makes  it  hard 
for  the  hunter  to  follow  after.  The  adult  animal  is  also  shy, 
and  I have  hunted  all  day  at  times  without  coming  upon  my 
quarry,  when  I felt  sure  that  they  were  carefully  avoiding 
me.  When,  however,  at  last  fortune  favors  the  hunter,  and  he 
comes  accidentally  or  by  good  management  upon  his  prey,  he 
need  not  fear  its  running  awa}'.  In  all  my  hunts  and  encoun- 
ters with  this  animal,  I never  knew  a grown  male  to  run  off. 
When  I surprised  a pair  of  gorillas,  the  male  was  generally  sit- 
ting down  on  a rock  or  against  a tree,  in  some  darkest  corner 
of  the  jungle,  where  the  brightest  sun  left  its  traces  only  in  a 
dim  and  gloomy  twilight.  The  female  was  mostly  feeding 
near  by;  and  it  is  singular  that  she  almost  always  gave  the 
alarm  by  running  off,  with  loud  and  sudden  cries  or  shrieks. 
Then  the  male,  sitting  for  a moment  with  a savage  frown  on 
his  face,  slowly  rises  to  his  feet,  and,  looking  with  glowing  and 
malign  eyes  at  the  intruders,  begins  to  beat  liis  breast,  and, lift- 
ing up  his  round  head,  utters  his  frightful  roar.  This  begins 
with  several  sharp  barks,  like  an  enraged  or  mad  dog,  where- 
upon ensues  a long,  deeply  guttural  rolling  roar,  continued  for 
over  a minute,  ana  which,  doubled  and  multiplied  by  the  re- 
sounding echoes  of  the  forest,  fills  the  hunter’s  ears  like  the  deep 
rolling  thunder  of  an  approaching  storm.  I have  reason  to  be- 
lieve that  I have  heard  this  roar  at  a distance  of  three  miles.  The 
horror  of  the  animal’s  appearance  at  this  time  is  beyond  de- 
scription. It  seems  as  monstrous  as  a nightmare  dream — so 


DU  CUAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


223 


impossible  a piece  of  hideousness  that,  were  it  not  for  the  dan- 
ger of  its  savage  approach,  the  hunter  might  fancy  himself  in 
some  ugly  dream.  At  such  a sight  I could  forgive  my  brave 
native  hunters  that  they  were  sometimes  overcome  with  super- 
stitious fears,  and  ceased  to  wonder  at  the  strange,  weird  ‘go- 
rilla stories’  of  the  negroes. 

“ It  is  a maxim  with  the  well-trained  gorilla-hunters  to  reserve 
their  fire  to  the  very  last  moment.  Experience  has  shown  them 
that — whether  the  enraged  beast  takes  the  report  of  the  gun 
for  an  answering  defiance,  or  for  what  other  reason  unknown — 
if  the  hunter  fires  and  misses,  the  gorilla  at  once  rushes  upon 
him;  and  this  onset  no  man  can  withstand.  One  blow  of  that 
huge  paw,  with  its  bony  claws,  and  the  poor  hunter’s  entrails 
are  torn  out,  his  breast  bone  broken,  or  his  skull  crushed.  It  is 
too  late  to  reload,  and  flight  is  vain.  There  have  been  negroes 
who  in  such  cases,  made  desperate  by  their  frightful  danger, 
have  faced  the  gorilla,  and  struck  him  with  the  empty  gun. 
But  they  had  time  for  only  one  harmless  blow.  The  next  mo- 
ment the  huge  arm  came  down  with  fatal  force,  breaking  mus- 
ket. and  skull  with  one  blow.  I imagine  no  animal  is  so  fatal 
in  its  attack  on  man  as  this,  for  the  reason  that  it  meets  him  face 
to  face,  and  uses  its  arms  as  its  weapons  of  offence,  just  as  a 
man  ora  prize-fighter  would — only  that  it  has  longer  arms,  and 
vastly  greater  strength  than  the  strongest  boxer  the  world  ever 
saw. 

“ Now  the  gorilla  is  only  met  in  the  most  dark  and  impenetra- 
ble jungle,  where  it  is  difficult  to  get  a clear  aim,  unobstructed 
by  vines  and  tangled  bushes,  for  any  distance  greater  than  a 
few  yards.  For  this  reason,  the  gorilla-hunter  wisely  stands  still 
and  awaits  the  approach  of  the  infuriated  beast.  The  gorilla 
advances  by  short  stages,  stopping  to  utter  his  diabolical  roar 
and  to  beat  his  vast  breast  with  his  paws,  which  produce  a dull 
reverberation  as  of  an  immense  bass-drum,  which  sound  I have 
heard  at  the  distance  of  a mile.  Ilis  walk  is  a waddle,  from 
side  to  side,  his  hind  legs — which  are  very  short — being  evi- 
dently somewhat  inadequate  to  the  proper  support  of  the  huge 
superincumbent  body.  He  balances  himself  by  swinging  his 
arms,  somewhat  as  sailors  walk  on  shipboard  ; and  the  vast 
paunch,  the  round  bullet-head  joined  awkwardly  to  the  trunk 
with  scarce  a vestige  of  neck,  and  the  great  muscular  arms,  and 
deep,  cavernous  breast,  give  to  this  waddle  an  ungainly  horror, 
which  adds  to  his  ferocity  of  appearance.  At  the  same  time, 
the  deep-set  gray  eyes  sparkle  out  with  gloomy  malignity  ; the 
features  are  contorted  in  hideous  wrinkles ; and  the  slight, 


224 


DU  CI1A1LL U'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


sharply  cut  lips,  drawn  up,  reveal  the  long  fangs  and  the  power- 
ful jaws,  in  which  a human  limb  would  be  crushed  as  a biscuit. 

“In  shooting  the  hippopotamus  at  night  and  on  shore,  the  ne- 
gro always  scampers  off  directly  he  has  fired  his  gun.  When 
lie  has  fired  at  the  gorilla  he  stands  still.  I asked  why  they 
did  not  run  in  this  case  too,  and  was  answered  that  it  was  of 
no  use.  To  run  would  be  fatal.  If  the  hunter  has  missed,  he 
must  battle  for  his  life  face  to  face,  hoping  by  some  piece  of 
unexpected  good  fortune  to  escape  a fatal  blow,  and  come  off, 
perhaps,  maimed  for  life,  as  I have  seen  several  in  the  up-river 
villages.  Fortunately,  the  gorilla  dies  as  easily  as  man;  a’ 
shot  in  the  breast,  if  fairly  delivered,  is  sure  to  bring  him 
down.  lie  falls  forward  on  his  face,  his  long,  muscular  arms 
outstretched,  and  uttering  with  his  last  breath,  a hideous  death- 
cry,  half  roar,  half  shriek,  which,  while  it  announces  his  safety 
to  the  hunter,  yet  tingles  his  ears  with  a dreadful  note  of  hu- 
man agony.  It  is  this  lurking  reminiscence  of  humanity,  in- 
deed, which  makes  one  of  the  chief  ingredients  of  the  hunter’s 
excitement  in  Ins  attack  on  the  gorilla. 

“ The  common  walk  of  the  gorilla  is  not  on  his  hind  legs,  but 
on  all-fours.  In  this  posture,  the  arms  are  so  long  that  the 
head  and  breast  are  raised  considerably,  and  as  it  runs  the  hind 
legs  are  brought  far  beneath  the  body.  The  leg  and  arm  on  the 
same  side  move  together,  which  gives  the  beast  a curious  wad- 
dle. It  can  run  at  great  speed.  The  young,  parties  of  which 
I have  often  pursued,  never  took  to  trees,  but  ran  along  the 
ground,  and  at  a distance,  with  their  bodies  half  erect,  looked 
not  unlike  negroes  making  off  from  pursuit.  I have  never 
found  the  female  to  attack,  though  I have  been  told  by  the  ne- 
groes that  a mother  with  a young  one  in  charge  will  sometimes 
make  fight.  It  is  a pretty  tiling  to  see  such  a mother  with  the 
baby  gorilla  sporting  about  it.  I have  watched  them  in  the 
wood,  till,  eager  as  Iwas  to  obtain  specimens,  I had  not  the 
heart  to  shoot.  But  in  such  cases  my  negro  hunters  exhibited 
no  tender-heartedness,  but  killed  their  quarry  without  loss  of 
time.  When  the  mother  runs  off  from  the  hunter,  the  young  one 
grasps  her  about  the  neck,  and  hangs  beneath  her  breasts  with 
its  little  legs  about  her  body. 

“ The  strength  of  the  gorilla  is  evidently  enormous.  A young 
one  of  between  two  and  three  years  of  age  required  four  stout 
men  to  hold  it,  and  even  then,  in  its  struggles,  bit  one  severely. 
That  with  its  jaws  it  can  dent  a musket-barrel,  and  with  its 
arms  break  trees  from  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  suffi- 
ciently proves  that  its  vast  bony  frame  has  corresponding 


DU  ClIAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


225 


muscle.  The  negroes  never  attack  them  with  other  weapons 
than  guns;  and  in  those  parts  of  the  far  interior  where  no 
European  guns  had  jet  reached,  as  among  the  Apingi,  this  great 
beast  roamed  unmolested,  the  monarch  of  the  forest.  To  kill 
a gorilla  gives  a hunter  a life-long  reputation  for  courage  and 
enterprise  even  among  the  bravest  of  the  negro  tribes,  who  are 
generally,  it  may  be  said,  not  lacking  in  this  quality  of 
courage. 

“ The  gorilla  has  no  cries  or  utterances  that  I have  heard  except 
those  already  described,  the  short,  sharp  bark,  and  the  roar  of 
the  attacking  male,  and  the  scream  of  the  female  and  young 
when  alarmed ; except,  indeed,  a low  kind  of  a cluck,  with 
which  the  watchful  mother  secerns  to  call  her  child  toiler.  The 
young  ones  have  a cry  when  in  distress,  but  their  voice  is  harsh, 
and  it  is  more  a moan  of  pain  than  a child’s  cry. 

“ It  uses  no  artificial  weapon  of  offence,  hut  attacks  always 
with  its  arms,  though  in  a struggle  no  doubt  the  powerful  teeth 
would  play  a part.  I have  several  times  noticed  skulls  in  which 
the  huge  canines  were  broken  off,  not  worn  down,  as  they  are 
in  almost  all  the  adult  gorillas  by  gnawing  at  trees  which  they 
wished  to  break,  and  which,  without  being  gnawed  into,  are  too 
strong  even  for  them.  The  negroes  informed  me  that  such 
teeth  were  broken  in  combats  between  the  males  for  possession 
of  a female,  and  I think  this  quite  probable.  Such  a combat 
must  form  a magnificent  and  awful  spectacle.  A struggle  be- 
tween two  well-matched  gorillas  would  exceed  in  that  kind  of 
excitement  which  the  Romans  took  such  delight  in,  anything 
in  that  line  which  they  were  ever  gratified  with. 

“ In  height  adult  gorillas  vary  as  much  as  men.  The  adult 
males  in  my  collection  range  from  five  feet  two  inches  to  five 
feet  eight ; and  the  parts  of  a skeleton  which  my  friend  Prof. 
Jeffries  Wyman  has,  are  so  much  larger  than  any  in  my  posses- 
sion, that  I am  warranted  in  concluding  the  animal  to  which  it 
belonged  to  have  been  at  least  six  feet  two  inches  in  height. 
The  female  is  much  smaller,  less  strong,  and  of  lighter  frame. 
One  adult  female  in  myT  collection  measured,  when  shot,  four 
feet  six  inches. 

“ The  color  of  the  skin  in  the  gorilla,  young  as  well  as  adult, 
is  intense  black.  This  color  does  not  appear,  however,  except 
in  the  face,  on  the  breast,  and  in  the  palms  of  the  hands.  The 
hair  of  a grown,  but  not  aged  specimen,  is  in  color  iron-gray. 
The  individual  hairs  are  ringed  with  alternate  stripes  of  black 
and  gray,  which  produces  the  iron-gray  color.  On  the  arms 
the  hair  is  darker  and  also  much  longer,  being  sometimes  o vei- 
ls 


226 


DU  CHAILL U'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


two  inches  long.  It  grows  upward  on  the  forearm  and  down- 
ward on  the  main  arm.  Aged  gorillas,  the  negroes  told  me, 
turn  quite  gray  all  over ; and  I have  one  huge  male  in  my  col- 
lection whose  worn-out  tusks  show  great  age,  and  whose  color 
is,  in  fact,  a dirty  gray.  The  head  is  covered  with  reddish- 
brown  hair,  short,  and  extending  almost  to  the  neck,  or  where 
the  neck  should  be. 

“In  the  adult  male  the  chest  is  bare.  In  the  young  male  it  is 
thinly  covered  with  hair.  In  the  female  the  mammae  have  but 
a slight  development,  and  the  breast  is  bare.  The  color  of  the 
hair  in  the  female  is  black,  with  a decided  tinge  of  red.  The 
hair  on  the  arms  is  but  little  longer  than  that  on  the  body,  and 
is  of  a like  color.  The  reddish  crown  which  covers  the  scalp 
of  the  male  is  not  apparent  in  the  female  till  she  is  grown. 


HEAD  OP  THE  GORILLA. 


“ The  eyes  of  the  gorilla  are  deeply  sunken,  the  immense  over- 
hanging bony  frontal  ridge  giving  to  the  face  the  expression  of 
a constant  savage  scowl.  The  mouth  is  wide,  and  the  lips  are 
sharply  cut,  exhibiting  no  red  on  the  edges,  as  in  the  human  face. 
The  jaws  are  of  tremendous  weight  and  power.  The  huge  ca- 
nines of  the  male,  which  are  fully  exhibited  when,  in  his  rage, 
he  draws  back  his  lips,  lend  additional  ferocity  to  his  aspect. 
In  the  female  these  canines  are  smaller. 

“ The  almost  total  absence  of  neck,  which  gives  the  head  the 
appearance  of  being  set  into  the  shoulders,  is  due  to  the  back- 
ward position  of  the  juncture  of  the  head  with  the  trunk.  The 
brain-case  is  low  and  compressed,  and  the  lofty  ridge  of  the  skull 


DU  CHA1LL U'8  EXPLORATIONS. 


227 


causes  the  cranial  profile  to  describe  an  almost  straight  line  from 
the  occiput  to  the  supraorbital  ridge.  The  immense  develop- 
ment of  the  temporal  muscles  which  arise  from  this  ridge,  and 
the  corresponding  size  of  the  jaw,  are  evidences  of  the  great 
strength  of  the  animal. 

“ The  eyebrows  are  thin,  but  not  well  defined,  and  are  almost 
lost  in  the  hair  of  the  scalp.  The  eyelashes  are  thin  also.  The 
eyes  are  wide  apart ; the  ears  are  smaller  than  those  of  man,  and 
in  form  closely  resemble  the  human  ear.  They  are  almost  on 
the  same  parallel  with  the  eyes.  In  a front  view  of  the  face 
the  nose  is  flat,  but  somewhat  prominent,  more  so  than  in  any 
other  ape  ; this  on  account  of  a sliglitty  projecting  nose-bone. 
The  gorilla  is  the  only  ape  which  shows  such  a projection,  and 
in  this  respect  it  comes  nearer  to  man  than  any  other  of  the 
man-like  apes. 

“ The  profile  of  the  trunk  shows  a slight  convexity.  The  chest 
is  of  great  capacity ; the  shoulders  exceedingly  broad ; the  pec- 
toral regions  show  slightly  projecting  a pair  of  nipples,  as  in  the 
other  apes  and  in  the  human  species.  The  abdomen  is  of  im- 
mense size,  very  prominent,  and  rounding  at  the  sides.  The 
arms  have  prodigious  muscular  development,  and  are  very  long, 
extending  as  low  as  the  knees.  The  forearm  is  nearly  of  uni- 
form size  from  the  wrist  to  the  elbow.  The  great  length  of  the 
arms  and  the  shortness  of  the  legs  form  one  of  the  chief  devia- 
tions from  man.  The  arms  are  not  so  long  when  compared  with 
the  trunk,  but  they  are  so  in  comparison  with  the  legs.  These 
are  short,  and  decrease  in  size  from  below  the  knee  to  the  ankle, 
having  no  calf.  The  superior  length  of  the  arm  (humerus)  in 
proportion  to  the  forearm,  brings  the  gorilla,  in  that  respect,  in 
closer  anthropoid  affinities  with  man  than  any  of  the  other 
apes. 

“ The  hands  of  the  animal,  especially  in  the  male,  are  of  im- 
mense size,  strong,  short,  and  thick.  The  fingers  are  short  and  of 
great  size,  the  circumference  of  the  middle  finger  at  the  first 
joint  being  in  some  gorillas  over  six  inches.  The  thumb  is 
shorter  than  in  man,  and  not  half  so  thick  as  the  forefinger. 
The  hand  is  hairy  as  far  as  the  division  of  the  fingers,  those,  as 
in  man,  being  covered  with  short  thin  hairs.  The  palm  of  the 
hand  is  naked,  callous,  and  intensely  black.  The  nails  are 
black,  and  shaped  like  those  of  man,  but  smaller  in  proportion, 
and  projecting  very  slightly  beyond  the  ends  of  the  fingers. 
They  are  thick  and  strong,  and  always  seem  much  worn.  The 
hand  of  the  gorilla  is  almost  as  wide  as  it  is  long,  and  in  this 
it  approaches  nearer  to  those  of  man  than  any  of  the  other  apes. 


228 


DU  CHAILL U'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


Tlie  foot  is  proportionally  wider  than  in  man.  The  sole  is 
callous  and  intensely  black, 
and  looks  somewhat  like  a 
gianthandof  immense  power 
and  grasp.  The  middle  toe, 
or  third,  is  longer  than  the 
second  and  fourth,  the  fifth 
proportionally  shorter,  as  in 
man.  The  toes  are  divided 
into  three  groups,  so  to  speak. 
Inside  the  great  toe,  outside 
the  little  toe,  and  the  three 
others  partly  united  by  a 
web.  As  a whole,  the  loot 
of  the  gorilla  presents  a 
great  likeness  to  the  foot 
of  man,  and  by  far  more  so 
than  in  any  other  ape.  In 
no  other  animal  is  the  foot 
so  well  adapted  for  the  main- 
tenance of  the  erect  position. 
Also,  the  gorilla  is  much 
less  of  a tree-climber  than 
any  other  ape.  The  foot  in 
the  gorilla  is  longer  than  the 
hand,  as  in  man,  while  in 
the  other  apes  the  foot  is 
somewhat  shorter  than  the 
hand.  The  hair  on  the  foot 
comes  to  the  division  of  the 
toes,  and  those  are  slightly 
covered  with  thin  hair. 

The  gorilla  skeleton,  the 
sTcull  excepted , resembles  the 
bony  frame  of  man  more 
than  that  of  any  other  an- 
thropoid ape.  In  the  form 
and  proportion  of  the  pelvis, 
the  number  of  ribs,  the 
length  of  the  arm,  the  width 
of  the  hand,  and  the  struc- 
ture and  arches  of  the  feet — 
all  these  characteristics,  and 
also  some  of  its  habits,  appear  to  place  the  gorilla  nearer  to 


DU  C1IA1LL U ’ S EXPLORATIONS. 


229 


SKELETONS  OF  MAN  AND  THE  GORILLA. 


Man  has 

12  (and  sometimes  13)  pairs  of  ribs. 

7 cervical  vertebrae. 

12  dorsal  (and  sometimes  13)  vertebrae. 
5 lumbar  (sometimes  4)  do. 

5 sacral  do. 

8 carpal  (wrist)  bones. 


The  Gorilla  has 
13  pairs  of  ribs. 

7 cervical  vertebrae. 

13  dorsal  do. 

3 lumbar  do. 

6 sacral  do. 

8 carpal  (wrist)  bones. 


230 


DU  CUAILLU'S  EXPLORATIONS. 


man  than  ail}'  other  anthropoid  ape  is  placed.  The  forego- 
ing cuts  show  more  clearly  than  any  amount  of  description 
could  do,  the  main  points  of  resemblance,  and  also  of  differ- 
ence. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


SERVAL’S  TRAVELS  ON  THE  OGOWAI. 

TnE  principal  stream  of  equatorial  West  Africa,  the  region 
partially  explored  by  Du  Chaillu,  is  the  Ogowa'i.  Up  to  the 
present  moment  we  are  in  ignorance  of  the  sources  of  this 
mighty  river,  though  it  is  known  to  draw  its  waters  from  an 
inland  region  far  beyond  the  Sierra  del  Crystal  Mountains,  and 
perhaps  from  some  one  of  the  Central  African  lakes.  Its  mouth, 
which  forms  an  immense  triangular  delta,  lies  under  1°  S. 
latitude.  Du  Chaillu  in  his  travels  did  not  come  in  contact 
with  the  main  stream  of  the  Ogowa'i,  only  with  its  southern 
tributaries;  in  order  to  become  acquainted  with  this  great 
river,  at  least  in  its  lower  course,  we  must  consult  another  au- 
thority— the  French  marine — Lieutenant  Serval,  who,  in  1862, 
embarked  in  the  steamer  “ Pioneer,”  and  accompanied  by 
the  ship’s  surgeon,  Griffon  du  Bellay,  ascended  it  as  far  as 
long.  11°  30'  E.  from  Greenwich. 

Early  in  July,  in  the  midst  of  the  dry  season,  they  began 
the  ascent  of  the  river ; and  on  July  18th  reached  the  point 
where  the  Nazareth  (Nazare)  diverges  from  the  main  stream. 
The  river  had  fallen  more  than  two  feet  since  they  started,  and 
was  becoming  more  and  more  shallow ; finally,  on  the  19th, 
the  “ Pioneer  ” ran  aground  on  a sand-bank  distant  about  60 
miles  from  the  mouth.  The  only  thing  that  could  be  done 
now  was  to  take  a row-boat.  Of  course  very  little  progress 
could  be  made  with  this,  and  they  were  dependent,  moreover, 
on  the  good  or  ill  will  of  the  natives. 

The  village  near  which  the  steamer  grounded  was  named 
Dambo,  and  the  name  of  the  chief  was  Ngowa  Akaga.  He 
behaved  very  decently ; in  the  evening  he  visited  the  Wa- 
tuuga,  i.e.,  the  big  ship  of  the  whites.  ILis  astonishment  at  all 
he  saw  was  but  slight ; and  in  his  praises  he  was  very  cautious 
too — which  perhaps  was  fortunate,  as  whatever  the  African 
praises  he  is  apt  to  desire  to  possess.  In  return  for  some 
presents,  Ngowa  gave  the  travellers  a canoe  and  several  boat- 
men ; and  encouraged  by  this  indication  of  friendly  feeling, 
they  set  out  on  a journey  up  the  river  which  lasted  three  weeks. 


232 


SERVAL' 8 TRAVELS  ON  THE  OGOWAI. 


From  far  and  near  the  people  gathered  to  see  the  strange 
white  men ; they  were  very  inquisitive,  and  very  eager  for 
presents,  and  every  chief  demanded  a special  introduction.  If 
no  attention  was  paid  to  their  demands,  they  felt  insulted. 
On  one  occasion,  Serval  sailed  past  the  important  town  of 
Arumbe,  without  noticing  it,  as  the  boat  was  being  rowed  up 
the  opposite  side  of  the  stream  ; but  he  had  hardly  got  by 
when  a half  dozen  boats  filled  with  armed  natives  came  in  pur- 
suit, and  demanded  that  he  should  turn  back.  At  the  same 
moment  another  fleet  of  armed  boats  came  up  from  another 
village  which  had  yet  to  be  passed  ; and  between  the  two  par- 
ties there  ensued  a lively  palaver.  It  was  finally  determined 
that  the  white  men  should  visit  Arumbe  on  their  return,  and 
they  were  allowed  to  resume  their  journey.  This  incident  con- 
vinced Serval  that  they  had  better  stop  hereafter  at  every 
town  which  they  had  to  pass. 

The  travellers  were  now  in  the  country  of  the  Galos.  This 
is  the  most  important  tribe  on  the  Ogowai,  and  they  appear  to 
differ  greatly  from  the  others,  though  they  all  speak  nearly  the 
same  language.  The  people  seem  to  be  uniformly  idle  and 
lazy.  Their  husbandry  is  of  the  most  primitive  character; 
the  earth  is  simply  scratched  up  here  and  there,  and  the  seeds 
or  roots  stuck  in  ; Nature  is  left  to  do  the  rest.  They  know  of 
no  minerals  or  metals,  not  even  iron.  All  their  arms  and  im- 
plements are  gotten  from  the  European  merchants  and  fac- 
tories, or  from  the  Oschebas,  living  farther  inland,  who,  like 
the  Fans,  know  how  to  smelt  and  work  the  iron. 

As  they  passed  up  the  river,  the  travellers  were  struck  by  a 
very  peculiar  appearance  on  the  banks : circular  holes  of  re- 
markable regularity,  about  a foot  and  a half  in  diameter,  and 
a foot  in  depth.  Most  of  them  were  free  from  water,  owing 
to  the  great  shallowness  of  the  river.  These  holes  are  dug  by 
the  Cendu  with  their  horned  mouths,  a fish  which  is  ver}T  often 
found  here ; they  deposit  their  eggs  in  the  holes. 

Serval  wished  to  go  up  the  Ogowai  until  he  had  reached  the 
point  where  it  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Okanda  and 
the  N’gouniay.  He  was  in  hopes  of  finding  new  tribes  there ; 
the  Eumikas,  for  instance,  who  have  direct  communication 
with  the  tributaries  of  the  Gaboon  River,  and  especially  with 
the  Oschebas,  a people  whose  reputation  extends  down  to  the 
coast.  The  journey,  however,  was  getting  more  and  more 
perilous ; the  people  were  becoming  more  greedy  after  the 
European  articles  hidden  in  the  canoe,  and  were  openly  con- 
sidering whether  they  should  plunder  the  boat  by  force ; and 


SERVAL'S  TRAVELS  ON  THE  OGOWAI. 


233 


at  last  the  travellers  learned  that  the  people  of  two  large 
villages  had  agreed  to  rob  them,  and  divide  the  proceeds. 
To  make  a further  advance  under  such  circumstances  was  out 
of  the  question,  and  Scrval  resolved  to  turn  back  and  visit  the 
lake  of  Jononga,  of  which  the  people  of  the  Ogowai,  and  es- 
pecially the  Galos,  had  told  him  the  most  singular  stories. 
The  sanctuary  of  their  religion  is  located  there  ; and  there,  it 
was  said,  curious  phenomena  were  to  be  seen.  In  the  clouds 
immense  vessels  of  the  whites  were  swimming,  which  sailed 
past  Cape  Lopez,  a distance  of  more  than  125  miles.  Power- 
ful and  malignant  spirits  also  lived  there,  so  it  was  said;  and 
if  the  uninitiated  attempted  to  land  on  the  sacred  islands  which 
lay  on  the  bosom  of  the  lake,  his  vessel  would  be  capsized,  and 
every  one  in  it  drowned.  If  the  adventurers  were  white  peo- 
ple, that  would  not  alter  the  case  ; on  the  contrary,  the  posses- 
sion of  a white  skin  increased  the  danger  of  such  an  attempt. 
Stories  like  these,  and  many  others,  were  told  them  far  and 
near,  and  also  along  the  Nyomo,  the  stream  through  which  the 
lake  has  its  outlet  into  the  Ogowai.  They  penetrated  to  it 
nevertheless. 

“ The  first  island  you  come  to  in  this  lake,”  says  Serval,  “is 
the  Asinghibuiri,  and  upon  it  we  remained  overnight.  Here 
the  lake  presents  an  indescribable  spectacle ; it  runs  in  and  out 
like  sharp  points,  and  from  every  cove  of  the  mountainous 
shore  may  be  seen  torrents  which  empty  themselves  into  the 
lake.  None  of  the  many  tributaries,  however,  are  of  any  im- 
portance. In  the  dry  season  the  lake  has  a depth  of  about 
four  to  six  feet ; and  the  water  is  clear  and  transparent,  while 
throughout  its  course  the  water  of  the  Ogowai  shows  a peculiar 
reddish  color.  On  the  east  the  landscape  rises  very  rapidly 
until  it  reaches  the  Aschampolo  Mountains,  which  close  the 
horizon  in  this  direction.  Through  these  mountains  the 
Ogowai  breaks  its  way.  The  vegetation  on  the  shores  of  the 
lake  is  wonderfully  pretty, — the  Abos-trees  are  beautiful,  and 
there  is  an  abundance  of  the  caoutchouc-Lianes,  whereas  the 
oil-palm  is  very  scarce.  The  shore’s  edge  is  grown  over  with 
grass,  and  close  to  the  water  stands  a neat  Ilemerocallis,  writh 
white  blossoms  ; no  reeds  or  any  similar  plants  are  to  be  seen, 
which  indicates  that  there  is  no  stagnant  water  or  swampy 
bottom.  Yerv  likely  this  part  of  the  country  bordering  on  the 
lake  is  healthy.” 

Very  few  of  the  Galos  inhabit  it,  however.  Farther  off,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Aschampolo  Mountains,  live  the  Aschiras. 
The  travellers  met  two  of  them ; their  foreheads  are  low  and 


234: 


SERVAL'S  TRAVELS  ON  TEE  OOOWAI. 


retreating,  and  the  face  bony,  without  any  expression  or  intelli- 
gence. They  chiefly  manufacture  the  fine  and  soft  mats  which 
are  known  among  the  traders  as  Loango,  or  Loando,  mats.  The 
Aschiras  file  their  teeth  to  a point.  On  the  forest-clad  sides  of 
the  Aschampolo  mountains  live  some  of  the  Bakalai  people,  who 
have  been  described  in  the  preceding  chapter.  They  are  very 
warlike,  and  put  the  slave-dealers  in  possession  of  many  an 
Aschira ; but  they  are  careful  to  avoid  quarrelling  with  their 
neighbors  near  the  river,  as  they  often  need  their  help  in  order 
to  communicate  with  the  coast. 

Asinghiburi,  where  the  strangers  remained  overnight,  and 
received  good  treatment,  is  inhabited  by  the  Galos.  The  Ar- 
umbi  island,  situated  toward  the  middle  of  the  lake,  is  the 
sacred  ground  of  the  Galos  creed.  The  Fetich-priests  are  raised 
and  trained  here  for  the  entire  population,  and  for  this  purpose 
there  is  a kind  of  seminary  or  retreat  on  the  island.  Ser- 
val  saw  about  a dozen  of  the  boys  from  the  seminary ; they 
looked  quite  intelligent,  but  were  very  curiously  dressed.  They 
wore  an  apron,  similar  to  that  of  the  Bakalai ; it  hung  over 
their  hips,  fastened  by  a belt  made  of  white  beads  and  orna- 
mentedwith  beads  made  from  red  chenille.  From  its  indented 
edges  were  suspended  pieces  of  blue  glass,  beads,  and  bells. 
On  their  arms  and  legs  they  wore  heavy  rings  made  of  brass. 
This  seminary  dress  is  worn  by  the  young  i?etich-levite  until 
he  is  17  or  18  years  of  age ; then  he  is  initiated  into  the  mys- 
teries of  their  religion  and  “ sees  the  Fetich.”  Up  to  this  time 
it  has  been  his  duty  to  avoid  the  company  of  women  ; but  now 
that  he  is  a priest  he  leaves  the  sacred  islands  and  mingles 
with  the  rest  of  the  world  like  any  other  person. 

The  islands  were  not  visited  by  the  travellers,  as  this  privi- 
lege belongs  exclusively  to  the  great  Fetich-men ; but  they  sailed 
around  them  in  their  boat.  J ust  opposite  the  entrance  from  the 
river  they  came  upon  another  small  stream  through  which  the 
Jonongo  communicates  with  another  small  lake,  the  Eliva  Wi- 
dangu.  It  is  just  after  entering  this  stream  that  the  before- 
mentioned  cloud-phenomena  are  to  be  seen, — though  they  are 
only  visible  in  rainy  weather.  “ The  story,”  says  Serval,  “ does 
not  seem  to  be  wholly  manufactured,  for  if  you  stand  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  lake,  during  rainy  weather  and  shortly  after  sun- 
rise, with  your  face  turned  toward  the  west,  then  you  will  see 
white  figures  in  the  clouds.  The  people  declare  that  ships  can 
sometimes  be  seen  in  them  which  sail  by  Cape  Lopez ; every 
detail,  so  they  say,  is  plainly  visible — how  they  manoeuvre,  pull 
their  sails  in,  and  fire  off  their  cannons.  Suddenly  all  disap- 


SERVAL  '3  TRAVELS  ON  TILE  OGOWAI. 


235 


pears  again.  This  can  all  be  explained,  probably,  as  the  effect 
of  a peculiar  mirage ; at  all  events  it  is  a phenomenon  which 
tills  the  inhabitants  with  superstitions  reverence.” 

The  travellers  induced  two  of  the  Fetich-seminarists  to  ac- 
company them  to  the  town  of  N’Dembo,  where  the  King  of  the 
Galos  had  already  been  expecting  them.  His  majesty  shone 
forth  in  all  his 
gala-dress,  which 
is  given  correctly 
in  our  illustra- 
tion. “ lie  was 
wearing  an  old- 
fashioned  gener- 
al’s uniform,  as 
far  as  the  upper 
half  of  his  body 
was  concerned  ; 
lower  down  his 
dress  looked  rather 
scanty,  especially 
if  one  considers 
that  Jondo-goiro 
is  not  only  king 
but  at  the  same 
time  a kind  of 
Pope  or  archbishop 
in  his  country. 

Heaven  only  knows 
where  these  pieces 
of  uniform  came 
from ; but  there 
were  epaulettes  of 
yellow  wool,  abun- 
dance of  green  embroidery,  and  on  the  brass  buttons  were  three 
cannons  lying  across  each  other,  with  the  inscription  i Ubique.’  ” 
A second  high-priest,  who  in  religious  matters  has  a little  more 
power  than  the  king,  lives  in  another  village  on  the  Ogowai,  and 
seldom  comes  to  N’Hembo.  He  as  well  as  the  king  is  a descend- 
ant from  a priestly  family;  and  they  were  in  close  alliance, 
as  Jondo-goiro  had  taken  a cousin  of  the  head  priest  for 
liis  wife,  while  the  latter  had  married  a daughter  of  the 
king. 

The  little  old  King  in  his  general’s  uniform,  with  its  big  col 
lar  reaching  above  his  ears,  and  the  sleeves  nearly  up  to  the  el- 


KENG  JONDO-GOIRO. 


236  BEBVAL'8  TRAVELS  ON  THE  OGOWAI. 

bow,  stood  on  the  river-bank  as  the  travellers  approached  and 
stretched  out  his  arms  toward  his  people — this  is  his  mode  of 
influencing  them  towards  being  religiously  inclined.  In  his 
left  hand  he  held  a bell,  the  sign  of  his  kingly  power  and  dig- 
nity ; with  the  other  hand  he  crumbled  up  a piece  of  bread, 
threw  the  small  pieces  into  the  water,  and  thus  addressed  the 
spirits  : “ Here  are  white  people — they  come  here  to  see  you — 
do  not  make  them  sick ; they  came  to  bring  you  presents — do 
not  let  them  die,  but  let  them  return  in  health  to  the  Gaboon.” 
This  simple  prayer  seemed  to  be  kindly  meant ; but  it  did  not 
prove  effective  in  all  its  parts,  as  Serval  subsequently  caught 
the  fever.  As  soon  as  he  had  finished  crumbling  the  bread, 
Jondo-goiro  filled  his  mouth  with  brandy  (which  gets  into  this 
part  of  the  country  through  Europeans)  and  squirted 
it  up  into  the  air.  This  ended  the  ceremony  of  re- 
ception. 

After  a day’s  stay  the  travellers  took  leave  of  the 
people  of  N’Dembo,  and  sailed  down  the  Ogowai, 
visiting  another  small  village  called  Nioge  which  is 
not  far  from  the  village  of  Avanga  Wisi.  Galos  live 
on  the  river  banks  down  to  this  point ; then  come 
the  tribes  which  are  in  direct  communication  with 
the  coast. 

The  people  of  Arumbe  had  made  up  their  minds 
to  plunder  the  travellers  of  whatever  they  could, 
and  also  to  punish  the  pilot,  as  they  considered  it 
his  fault  that  the  boat  had  passed  them  on  the  up 
journey  without  stopping  at  their  village.  Hearing 
of  their  intention,  Serval  and  his  party  drifted  past 
Arumbe  during  the  night,  and  by  sunrise  had  al- 
ready arrived  at  the  Bandu,  or  Bango,  which 
branches  off  from  the  Ogowai  and  streams  into  the 
ocean,  forming  the  southern  boundary  of  the  great 
delta. 

Serval  also  visited  the  Anengue  Lake,  which  we 
native  idol  already  know  through  Du  Chaillu’s  travels ; and 
^len  returned  by  way  of  the  French  settlements  on 
the  coast. 


Early  in  1874  two  other  Frenchmen,  MM.  Compiegne  and 


SERVAL'S  TRAVELS  ON  THE  OQOWAl 


237 , 


Marche,  ascended  tlie  Ogowni,  and  readied  a point  200  mile3 
farther  inland  than  any  previous  explorer.  They  were  told  by 
the  natives  that  the  river  came  from  four  great  lakes ; and  they 
had  penetrated  within  four  days’  journey  of  these  lakes  when 
they  were  iired  upon  by  the  Osyobas  (Oschebas  X)  and  compelled 
to  turn  back.  Details  of  the  journey  have  not  yet  been  pub- 
lished. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 

In  185G  Captain  Richard  F.  Barton,  of  the  Indian  Army, 
having  just  returned  from  a brief  visit  to  the  Somali  coast  of 
Africa,  in  which,  disguised  as  an  Arab  merchant,  lie  had  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  Mahometan  city  of  Ilarar,  proposed 
to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  an  expedition  for  the  pur- 
pose of  ascertaining  the  limits  of  the  “ Sea  of  Ujiji,  or 
Unyam wezi  Lake,”  and  to  report  upon  the  exportable  produce 
of  the  interior  and  the  ethnography  of  its  tribes.  This  pro- 
posal, after  some  hesitation,  was  accepted  by  the  Society,  and 
the  Foreign  Office  granted  £1,000  for  the  expenses  of  the  ex- 

g edition.  The  directors  of  the  East  India  Company  granted 
iaptain  Burton  a two  years’  leave  of  absence,  and  also  de- 
tailed another  officer  of  the  Bombay  army,  Captain  John  Han- 
ning Speke,  to  accompany  him. 

They  reached  Zanzibar  in  December,  1856,  but  owing  to  the 
difficulty  of  collecting  the  guides,  porters,  donkeys,  etc.,  and 
of  procuring  the  great  variety  of  supplies,  presents,  and  articles 
for  barter  with  the  native  tribes,  necessary  for  an  expedition, 
it  was  the  28th  of  June,  1857,  before  they  actually  set  out  from 
Bagamoyo  for  the  unknown  interior.  The  expedition  as 
finally  organized  consisted  of  Said  bin  Salim,  an  officer  ap- 
pointed by  the  sultan  of  Zanzibar;  thirteen  Balocli  soldiers 
commanded  by  a Jemadar,  also  furnished  by  the  sultan  ; Bom- 
bay and  Mabruki,  negroes  from  India ; two  Portuguese  half- 
caste  servants  from  Goa  ; eight  interpreters,  guides,  and  “ war- 
men,”  under  an  African  freeman  named  Kidogo ; five  donkey- 
drivers,  thirty-six  porters,  and  a few  supernumeraries,  making 
a total  of  eighty-eight  persons. 

Only  the  narrow  strip  of  coast-line  is  subject  to  the  Arab 
sultan,  and  a march  of  five  miles  from  Bagamoyo  brought  them 
into  the  territory  of  the  native  tribes.  “On  the  wayside  ap- 
peared for  the  first  time  the  Kharnbi,  or  substantial  kraals, 
which  give  evidence  of  unsafe  travelling  and  the  unwillingness 
of  caravans  to  bivouac  in  the  villages.  In  this  region  they  as- 
sumed the  form  of  round  huts,  and  long  sheds  or  booths  of 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


239 


straw  or  grass,  supported  by  a framework  of  rough  sticks  firmly 
planted  in  the  ground  and  lashed  together  with  bark  strips. 
The  whole  was  surrounded  with  a deep  circle  of  thorns,  which — 
the  entrance  or  entrances  being  carefully  closed  at  nightfall,  not 
to  reopen  until  dawn — formed  a complete  defence  against  bare 
feet  and  naked  legs.” 

The  country  through  which  they  first  passed  presented  in  its 
general  appearance  u a mingling  of  bush  and  forest,  which, 
contracting  the  horizon  to  a few  zunds,”  was  most  wearisome 
and  monotonous.  “The  black,  greasy  ground,  veiled  with 
thick  shrubbery,  supports  in  the  more  open  spaces  screens  of 
tiger  and  spear  grass,  twelve  and  thirteen  feet  high,  with  every 
blade  a finger’s  breadth,  and  the  towering  trees  are  often  clothed 
from  root  to  twig  with  huge  epiphytes,  forming  heavy  columns 
of  densest  verdure,  and  clustering  upon  the  tops  in  the  sem- 
blance of  enormous  birds’-nests.  The  footpaths  are  crossed  by 
11  ianas,  creepers,  and  climbers,  thick  as  coir-cables,  some  connect- 
ing the  trees  in  a curved  line,  others  stretched  straight  down  the 
trunks,  and  others  winding  in  all  directions  around  their  sup- 
ports, frequently  crossing  one  another  like  network,  and  stunt- 
ing the  growth  of  even  the  vivacious  calabash,  by  coils  like  rope 
tightly  encircling  its  neck.  The  earth,  ever  rain-drenched,  emits 
the  odor  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and  in  some  parts  the 
traveller  might  fancy  a corpse  to  be  hidden  behind  every- 
bush.” 

In  these  maritime  parts  the  local  tribes  are  the  Wazaramo 
and  the  Wak’hutu,  and  a large  sub-tribe  called  the  WaziraM. 
There  is,  besides,  a floating  population  composed  of  immigrant 
tribes,  but  they  are  not  numerous,  neither  is  their  influence 
great. 

The  Wazaramo  are  the  most  powerful  and  rich  of  all  the  in- 
habitants of  this  region,  and  they  include  many  sub-tribes. 
They  are  remarkable  for  their  greasy  odor,  their  wild,  staring 
expression,  their  coarseness  of  feature,  their  loose  and  lounging 
gait,  and  their  peculiar  mode  of  dressing  their  hair,  which  is 
matted  together  by  means  of  a peculiar  kind  of  clay,  mois- 
tened with  the  juice  of  the  castor-bean.  When  this  primitive 
pomatum  is  nearly  dry,  the  hair  is  pulled  out  into  numerous 
wiry  twdsts,  till  the  whole  head  seems  to  be  covered  with  a 
thick  and  stiff  thatch.  They  are  turbulent  and  impracticable 
in  their  character,  and  live  principally  upon  the  plunder  which 
they  extort  from  merchants  and  travellers  under  pretence  of 
dues.  Their  nearness  to  the  coast,  and  the  consequent  inter- 
course with  traders,  must  no  doubt  have  affected  them  in  many 


240 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


ways,  and  particularly  in  regard  to  their  dress,  which,  for  Afri- 
cans, is  extravagant.  It  consists  of  a long  loin-cloth  of  unbleached 
cotton  stained  with  their  favorite  color,  a dirty  yellow ; girdles  and 
bead  necklaces  of  various  tints ; white  disks,  made  from  sea-shells, 
and  worn  on  the  forehead  or  the  neck ; massive  rings  on  the 
wrist,  and  tight  collars,  bright  and  gaudy,  tied  round  the  neck. 
These  are  the  principal  parts  of  their  attire.  The  men,  over 
and  above  all  this,  are  usually  armed  to  the  teeth  with  spears, 
bows  and  arrows,  daggers,  and  muskets,  when  they  can  get 
them.  In  other  social  respects  they  are  also  superior  to  their 
neighbors.  Their  settlements  are  strongly  palisaded,  and 
although  their  houses  are  very  poor,  they  possess  convenient 
arrangements,  which  are  unknown  in  the  distant  interior. 
Their  morality  is  very  low.  The  marriage-tie  is  very  loose 
among  them.  The  man  can  dissolve  the  union  when  he 
pleases,  without  assigning  a reason,  or  having  one.  He  may 
have  as  many  or  as  few  wives  as  his  tastes  or  his  means  may 
suggest. 

The  Wak’hutu  are  an  inferior  race.  Cloth  or  cotton  is  un- 
known among  them.  They  live  in  almost  perpetual  intoxica- 
tion ; lead  miserable  lives ; their  villages  are  very  filthy,  and 
the  huts  which  compose  them  are  of  the  meanest  possible  de- 
scription. Their  sub-tribe,  the  Waziraha,  are  distinguished  by 
their  great  profusion  of  beard.  In  Africa,  this  appendage  is  usu- 
ally either  absent  or  scanty;  with  the  Waziraha  it  is  abundant. 
The  Wadoe  are  the  chief  of  the  immigrant  tribes.  They  were 
once  formidable,  but  are  now  broken  and  dispersed.  They  are 
wild  and  savage  in  their  appearance,  and  as  much  so  in  their 
manners  and  customs.  They  drink  out  of  human  skulls ; and 
tliej^  bury  their  great  men  in  a sitting  posture,  with  a forefin- 
ger sticking  out  of  the  earth.  Slavery  is  prevalent  here,  and 
another  of  the  burial  superstitions  is  still  observed,  that  of  in- 
terring with  a deceased  chief  a male  and  a female  slave,  the 
one  to  cut  fuel  for  him,  and  the  other  to  support  his  head  on 
her  lap. 

Zungomero,at  which  the  travellers  arrived  on  the  26th  of  July, 
lies  at  the  foot  of  the  first  range  of  mountains  at  the  extreme 
limit  of  the  maritime  region.  It  lies  upon  the  main  route  to 
the  interior,  and  is  the  great  commercial  centre  of  all  these 
parts.  The  place  is  w^ell  situated  for  traffic,  does  a considera- 
ble amount  of  business,  and  being  visited  by  many  caravans  up 
and  down,  is  generally  crowded  in  the  travelling  season.  It  is 
extremely  unhealthy,  however ; and  as  both  Burton  and  Speke 
had  already  suffered  much  from  the  malarious  fever  of  the 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


241 


lowlands,  they  were  anxious  to  push  on.  But  additional  por- 
ters had  to  he  provided,  and  they  had  also  to  await  the  arrival 
of  more  supplies  which  had  been  forwarded  from  the  coast; 
so  that  it  was  not  until  August  7th  that  the  caravan  (now  num- 
bering 132  persons)  again  set  out.  The  first  march  continued 
for  five  hours,  and  lay  across  a sandy  soil,  sweating  and  smok- 
ing with  hot  springs.  Both  Burton  and  Speke  were  so  ill  that 
they  could  scarcely  sit  upon  their  riding-asses ; but  at  Mzizi 
Mdogo,  on  the  first  6lope  of  the  mountains,  there  was  a won- 
drous change  of  climate,  which  banished  for  the  time  their 
wasting  fevers.  On  the  way  thither  they  were  shocked  by  the 
sight  of  many  skeletons  picked  clean  to  the  bone,  the  remains 
of  porters  who  had  perished  in  the  same  route  from  starvation 
or  disease.  This  particular  expedition  suffered  in  common 
with  those  who  had  gone  before  them.  Some  of  their  porters 
hired  at  Zungoinero  died,  and  every  now  and  then  a baggage 
ass  wandered  away  or  became  unfit  to  proceed,  and  had  to  be 
abandoned. 

On  the  23d  of  August,  towards  evening,  after  having 
traversed  a plain  between  two  ranges  of  mountains,  they 
heard  the  sound  of  a drum,  the  usual  indication  of  a village, 
which  was  the  last  thing  they  expected  to  find  in  so  desolate  a 
neighborhood.  As  they  advanced  they  came  upon  what  was 
simply  the  debris  of  a village  which  had  once  been  flourishing, 
but  which  now  presented  a pitiable  spectacle  of  recent  destruc- 
tion. The  huts  were  rent  in  fragments  and  half  burnt  down. 
The  ground  was  strewn  with  broken  fragments  of  the  contents 
of  the  houses,  nets,  and  drums.  There  were  no  traces  of  blood; 
but  it  was  evident  that  this  was  the  scene  of  a recent  outrage, 
probably  by  slave-dealers.  Two  of  the  terrified  villagers  who 
had  escaped  alive  wrere  seen  lurking  in  the  jungle,  not  daring 
to  visit  the  wreck  of  their  former  homes.  But  the  slaves  and 
porters  employed  by  the  expedition  were  so  little  affected  by 
what  they  saw,  that  they  spent  the  night  in  singing  and  danc- 
ing, and  helping  themselves  to  whatever  they  could  find  in  the 
midst  of  the  ruins. 

Beaching  llumuma,  one  of  the  resting-places  for  caravans, 
they  found  provisions  comparatively  abundant,  and  the  natives 
quite  alive  to  the  advantages  of  their  market.  Troops  of  them 
came  down  from  the  hills  with  fowls  and  vegetables,  and  goats, 
bullocks,  and  sheep;  and  their  sultan,  having  paid  a visit  to 
Captain  Burton,  insisted  on  making  brotherhood  with  one  of 
his  men — a ceremony  which  consists  in  letting  a little  blood  on 
both  sides,  and  mutually  tasting  it,  the  solemn  barbarity  ter- 
16 


242 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


minating  in  an  exchange  of  presents.  The  climate  of  Rumn- 
ma  was  a pleasant  change  after  the  incessant  rains  of  the 
valleys  and  the  dense  fogs  and  mists  of  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains ; but  even  here  the  locality  was  unhealthy,  and  sickness 
broke  out  among  the  porters,  and  occasioned  inconvenience  to 
the  expedition.  They  had  now  passed  two  parallel  ranges  of 
the  mountains,  and  were  on  their  way  across  the  plain  that 
leads  to  the  Eubeho,  a third  range.  And  now  they  found 
signs  of  cultivation  such  as  they  had  not  witnessed  in  the  for- 
mer part  of  their  journey— beehives  hanging  to  the  branches 
of  trees,  watermelons  ripening  on  the  flat  roofs  of  the  villages, 
pumpkins  and  cucumbers  in  profusion,  and  comfortable  huts. 
The  heat,  however,  was  intense,  and  the  place  was  infested 
with  termites,  which  were  very  troublesome,  and  which  abound 
in  the  red,  moist  clay  soils,  and  in  the  cool  damp  places.  These 
creatures  are  endowed  with  extraordinary  powers  of  destruc- 
tion. They  have  been  known  to  drill  a hard  clay  bench,  so  as 
to  make  it  like  a sieve,  in  a single  night.  With  incredible 
rapidity  they  destroy  straps,  mats,  umbrellas,  and  cloths,  per- 
forating, pulverizing,  or  tearing  them  to  rags,  according  to  the 
nature  of  the  texture. 

Water  was  scarcely  to  be  found  in  this  plain  which  the  ex- 
pedition was  now  crossing,  and  in  such  circumstances  it  was 
necessary  to  resort  to  what  is  called  the  “ tirikeza.”  This  is  a 
march  which  starts  in  the  afternoon  from  a place  where  there 
is  water.  The  preparations  for  it,  which  last  two  or  three  hours, 
begin  before  noon.  At  length  when  everything  is  ready,  all 
hands  indulge  in  a parting  drink,  and,  filling  their  gourds,  set 
out  under  the  fiery  sun.  The  journey  is  long,  as  the  porters 
wish  to  make  the  next  morning’s  march,  which  leads  to  water, 
as  short  as  possible.  It  is  often  midnight  before  they  arrive 
at  their  destination,  exhausted,  lacerated  by  the  jungle,  and 
sometimes  lamed  by  dangerous  slips  in  the  innumerable  holes 
and  cavities  which  are  dug  by  field-rats  and  other  burrowing 
vermin. 

Having  successfully  accomplished  their  march  on  the  3d  of 
September,  the  expedition  reached  the  “ Windy  Pass”  at  the 
foot  of  the  third  range  of  the  Usagara  Mountains,  on  the  fol- 
lowing day.  There  was  great  rejoicing  at  the  happy  termina- 
tion of  the  much  disliked  “tirikeza.”  But  the  climate  was  as 
bad  as  that  of  fiumiima — a furnace  by  day,  and  a refrigerator 
by  night;  but  what  of  that?  They  lay  in  a cheerful  ravine, 
and  from  the  settlements  above  the  inhabitants  flocked  down  to 
barter  animals  and  grain,  and  their  eyes  were  gladdened  for 


TIIE  ENCAMPMENT  IN  UGOGO. 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


243 


the  first  time  since  they  left  the  coast  with  visions  of  milk, 
honey,  and  clarified  butter.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  had  the 
same  experience  to  judge  of  the  delight  with  which  the  men 
celebrated  their  arrival  at  this  station,  remaining  up  half  the 
night,  beating  drums  and  singing  songs.  On  the  next  morn- 
ing there  arrived  a dozen  caravans  with  about  four  hundred 
porters,  with  whom,  notwithstanding  the  many  jealousies  which 
obtain  among  these  people,  the  carriers  of  the  expedition  im- 
mediately fraternized.  The  merchants  also  waited  a few  days 
while  Burton  prepared  dispatches  for  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society  to  forward  by  them  to  the  coast. 

But  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  journey  was  still  to  come. 
From  their  camp  in  the  valley,  the  travellers  could  look  upon 
the  almost  perpendicular  path  scarring  the  face  of  the  moun- 
tain up  which  they  and  their  loaded  beasts  had  next  to  toil. 
Captain  Burton  says,  “ Trembling  with  ague,  with  swimming 
heads,  ears  deafened  by  weakness,  and  limbs  that  could  hardly 
support  us,  wo  contemplated  this  prospect  with  dogged  de- 
spair.” But  they  braced  themselves  to  their  task,  and  set  them- 
selves to  its  accomplishment.  It  was  fearful  work,  the  asses 
stumbling  at  every  step,  and  the  men  scaling  a precipice  of 
rolling  stones,  and  never  likely  to  reach  the  top.  In  the  midst 
of  their  labor,  exhausted  by  thirst,  illness,  and  fatigue,  the  war- 
cry  rang  out  suddenly  from  hill  to  hill,  and  broken  files  of 
archers  and  spearmen  streamed  down  the  paths  in  all  directions, 
to  take  advantage  of  the  departure  of  the  caravan  for  a preda- 
tory excursion  among  the  villages.  But  the  travellers,  being 
permitted  to  proceed,  reached  the  summit  at  the  end  of  six 
hours.  Captain  Speke  seems  to  have  suffered  most,  lie  made 
the  ascent  almost  in  a state  of  coma,  by  the  help  of  two  or 
three  supporters,  and  two  days  of  violent  delirium  followed 
before  he  was  able  to  resume  the  journey;  and,  even  then,  he 
was  in  his  hammock.  The  descent  of  the  western  slopes  was 
toilsome,  but  easy  in  comparison  with  the  previous  ascent. 
Boulders  and  great  stones  now  obstructed  the  track  which  led 
down  into  the  Dungomaro,  or  “ Devil’s  Glen,”  which  opens  out 
upon  the  plains  of  Ugogo,  where  the  second  region  of  the 
journey  terminates.  The  ‘‘Devil’s  Glen  ” is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  of  the  scenes  through  which  they  passed.  It  is  a 
large  crevasse  in  lofty  rocks  of  flint  and  gray  granite,  the  bot- 
tom being  strewn  with  blocks,  and  the  sides  lined  with  narrow 
ledges  of  brown  humus,  supporting  dwarf  cactuses  and  stunted 
thorny  trees,  high  stony  peaks  towering  over  all,  and  closing  in 
the  view  on  every  side.  As  they  advanced,  the  huge  blocks  of 


244 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE . 


stone  sometimes  rose  perpendicularly  to  height  of  more  than  a 
a hundred  feet,  and  the  path  itself  became  a sheet  of  shining 
rock,  with  broad  gaps  in  it  cut  by  the  action  of  the  torrents. 
Gradually,  the  great  stone  walls  were  succeeded  by  low  banks 
of  earth,  clad  with  gum-trees;  and  the  glen,  becoming  broad 
and  smooth,  swept  away,  verging  southwards,  into  the  plain. 

The  region  just  passed  is  called  the  mountain  region,  and 
Burton  gives  the  following  account  of  it : 

“ The  second  or  mountain  region  extends  from  the  western 
frontier  of  K’hutu,  at  the  head  of  the  alluvial  valley,  in  E.  long. 
37°  28',  to  the  province  of  Ugogi,  the  eastern  portion  of  the  flat 
table-land  of  Ugogo,  in  E.  long  36°  14/.  Its  diagonal  breadth  is 
85  geographical  and  rectilinear  miles ; the  native  caravans,  if 
lightly  laden,  generally  traverse  it  in  three  weeks,  including 
three  or  four  halts.  Its  length  cannot  be  estimated.  Accord- 
ing to  the  guides,  Gsagara  is  a prolongation  of  the  mountains 
of  Nguru,  or  Ngu,  extending  southward,  with  a gap  forming 
the  fluviatile  valley  of  the  Rwalia  or  Rufiji  River.  The  Usa- 
gara  chain  is  of  the  first  order  in  East  Africa ; it  is  indeed  the 
only  important  elevation  in  a direct  line  from  the  coast  to 
Western  Unyamwezi ; it  would  hold,  however,  but  a low  grade 
in  the  general  system  of  the  earth’s  mountains.  The  highest 
point  above  sea-level,  was  5,700  feet;  there  are,  however, 
peaks  which  may  rise  to  6,000  and  even  to  7,000  feet,  thus 
rivalling  the  inhabited  portion  of  the  Neilgherries,  in  Southern 
India. 

“ From  the  mingling  of  lively  colors,  Usagara  is  delightful 
to  the  eye,  after  the  monotonous  tracts  of  verdure  which  pall 
upon  the  sight  at  Zanzibar  and  in  the  river  valleys.  The  sub- 
soil, displayed  in  the  deeper  cuts  and  ravines,  is  either  of  gran- 
ite, greenstone,  schiste,  or  a coarse  incipient  sandstone,  brown 
or  green,  and  outcropping  from  the  ground  with  strata  steeply 
tilted  up.  In  the  higher  elevations  the  soil  varies  in  depth 
from  a few  inches  to  thirty  feet ; it  is  often  streaked  with  long 
layers  of  pebbles,  apparently  water-rolled.  The  plains,  basins, 
and  steps,  or  facets  of  table-land  found  at  every  elevation,  are 
fertilized  by  a stripe-work  of  streams,  runnels,  and  burns, 
which,  anastomosing  in  a single  channel,  flow  off  into  the  main 
drain  of  the  country.  Cultivation  is  found  in  patches  isolated 
by  thick  belts  of  thorny  jungle,  and  the  villages  are  few  and 
rarely  visited.  As  usual  in  hilly  countries,  they  are  built  upon 
high  ridges  and  the  slopes  of  cones,  for  rapid  drainage  after 
rain,  a purer  air  and  fewer  mosquitoes,  and,  perhaps,  protection 
from  kidnappers.  The  country  people  bring  down  their  sup- 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


245 


plies  of  grain  and  pulse  for  caravans.  There  is  some  delay  and 
difficulty  on  the  first  day  of  arrival  at  a station,  and  provisions 
for  a party  exceeding  a hundred  men  are  not  to  be  depended 
upon  after  the  third  or  fourth  marketing,  when  the  people  have 
exhausted  their  stores.  Fearing  the  thievish  disposition  of  the 
Wasagara,  who  will  attempt  even  to  snatch  away  a cloth  from 
a sleeping  man,  travellers  rarely  lodge  near  their  settlements. 
Kraals  of  thorn,  capacious  circles  inclosing  straw  boothics,  are 
found  at  every  march,  and,  when  burned  or  destroyed  by 
accident,  they  are  rebuilt  before  the  bivouac.  The  roads,  as 
usual  in  East  Africa,  are  tracks  trodden  down  by  caravans  and 
cattle,  and  the  water-course  is  ever  the  favorite  pass.  Many 
of  the  ascents  and  descents  are  so  proclivitous  that  donkeys 
must  be  relieved  of  their  loads;  and  in  fording  the  sluggish 
streams,  where  no  grass  forms  a causeway  over  the  soft,  viscid 
mire,  the  animals  sink  almost  to  the  knees.  The  steepest  paths 
are  those  in  the  upper  regions ; in  the  lower,  though  the  in- 
clines are  often  severe,  they  are  generally  longer,  and  conse- 
quently easier.  At  the  foot  of  each  hill  there  is  cither  a mud 
or  a water  course  dividing  it  from  its  neighbor.  These  ob- 
stacles greatly  reduce  the  direct  distance  of  the  day’s  march. 

u The  clans  now  tenanting  these  East  African  ghauts  are  the 
Wasagara — with  their  chief  sub-tribe,  the  Wakwivi — and  the 
Waliehe  ; the  latter  a small  body  inhabiting  the  south-western 
corner,  and  extending  into  the  plains  below. 

“The  limits  of  Wasagara  have  already  been  laid  down  by 
the  names  of  the  plundering  tribes  that  surronnd  them.  These 
mountaineers,  though  a noisy  and  riotous  race,  are  not  over- 
blessed with  courage;  they  will  lurk  in  the  jungle  with  bows 
and  arrows  to  surprise  a stray  porter  ; but  they  seem  ever  to 
be  awaiting  an  attack — the  best  receipt  for  inviting  it.  In  the 
higher  slopes  they  are  fine,  tall,  and  sturdy  men;  in  the  low- 
lands they  appear  as  degraded  as  the  Wak’hutn.  They  arc  a 
more  bearded  race  than  any  other  upon  this  line  of  East  Africa, 
and,  probably  from  extensive  intercourse  with  the  Wamrima, 
most  of  them  understand  the  language  of  the  coast.  The 
women  are  remarkable  for  a splendid  development  of  limb, 
while  the  bosom  is  lax  and  pendent. 

“ The  Wasagara  display  great  varieties  of  complexion,  some 
being  almost  black,  while  the  others  are  chocolate-colored. 
This  difference  cannot  be  accounted  for  by  the  mere  effects  of 
climate — level  and  temperature.  Some  shave  the  head  ; others 
wear  the  Arab’s  shushah,  a kind  of  skull-cap  growth,  extending 
more  or  less  from  the  poll.  Among  them  is  seen,  for  the  first 


246 


BURTON  AND  SPEED. 


time  on  this  line,  the  classical  coiffure  of  ancient  Egypt.  The 
hair,  allowed  to  attain  its  fullest  length,  is  twisted  into  a multi- 
tude of  the  thinnest  ringlets,  each  composed  of  two  thin  lengths 
wound  together ; the  wiry  stiffness  of  the  curls  keeps  them  dis- 
tinct and  in  position.  Behind,  a curtain  of  pigtails  hangs 
down  to  the  nape ; in  front  the  hair  is  either  combed  off  the 
forehead,  or  it  is  brought  over  the  brow  and  trimmed  short. 
No  head-dress  has  a wilder  or  a more  characteristically  African 
appearance  than  this,  especially  when,  smeared  with  a pomatum 
of  micaceous  ochre,  and  decorated  with  brass  beads,  balls,  and 
similar  ornaments,  it  waves  and  rattles  with  every  motion  of  the 
head.  Young  men  and  warriors  adorn  their  locks  with  the  feath- 
ers of  vultures,  ostriches,  and  a variety  of  bright-plumed  jays, 
and  some  tribes  twist  each  ringlet  with  a string  of  reddish  fibre. 
It  is  seldom  combed  out,  the  operation  requiring  for  a head  of 
thick  hair  the  hard  work  of  a whole  day.” 

Ugogi,  at  which  the  next  halt  was  made,  is  2,763  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  surrounded  by  a country  tolerably 
rich  in  grain  and  cattle  ; but  being  a great  gathering-point  for 
caravans,  and  frequently  robbed  by  marauders  on  account  of  its 
fertilit}7,  it  is  not  always  possible  to  obtain  provisions  in  propor- 
tion to  the  natural  capabilities  of  the  place.  This  uncertainty 
presented  a discouraging  prospect  to  our  travellers,  who  had  to 
look  forward  to  a march  of  four  days  before  they  could  reach  a 
spot  where  either  provisions  or  water  could  be  procured.  But, 
fortunately,  they  arrived  at  Ugogi  at  a moment  when  they 
were  able  to  provide  themselves  with  all  they  wanted,  and  could 
resume  their  journey  with  grain  for  six  days  and  water  for  one 
night.  Ziwa,  a small  pond  of  water,  was  reached  the  day  after 
leaving  Ugogi ; and  here  blackmail  began  to  be  systematically 
enforced.  Hitherto  the  chiefs  had  been  satisfied  with  presents, 
more  or  less  roughly  exacted  ; but  at  Ziwa,  tribute  is  openly 
taken  by  force  if  it  be  not  yielded  willingly.  There  is  no  fixed 
tariff,  the  rate  being  regulated  by  the  condition  and  supposed 
wealth  of  the  traveller.  Disputes  always  arise  between  the 
authorities  of  the  place  and  their  victims ; and  Captain  Bur- 
ton’s party  were  delayed  four  days  in  discussing  the  question  of 
organized  plunder.  Similar  delays  occurred  at  all  the  villages 
and  stopping-places  throughout  the  region  which  bears  the 
name  of  Ugogo.  Their  worst  encounter  was  at  a place  called 
Nyika,  or  “ the  Wilderness,”  at  which  there  resided  a sort  of 
ogre,  popularly  known  as  Short  Shanks,  who  was  at  that  time, 
and  possibly  may  still  be,  the  terror  of  all  strangers.  This 
petty  tyrant  they  found  to  be  the  most  powerful  of  all  the 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


247 


chiefs  of  this  region — a short,  elderly  man,  nearly  bald,  “ of 
the  color  of  chocolate,  and  built  very  much  like  a duck.”  The 
difficulty  of  doing  business  with  him  arose  from  his  habit  of 
dividing  his  day  into  two  parts,  in  one  of  which  he  was  always 
surly  and  unreasonable  on  the  matter  of  terms,  and  in  the  other 
always  drunk,  when  he  refused  to  transact  any  negotiations 
whatever.  The  consequence  was  that  the  caravans  were  com- 
pelled to  wait  upon  his  humors,  and  were  sometimes  forced  to 
work  in  his  fields  before  he  would  consent  to  receive  his  dues. 
Our  travellers  were  detained  five  days  at  this  clearing,  and 
were  fortunate  at  last  in  being  allowed  to  escape  with  a lighter 
mulct  than  might  have  been  expected  under  the  circumstances. 
In  this  third  region  of  their  journey,  there  is  at  the  extremity 
of  the  territory  a large  and  populous  settlement,  known  as  Tura 
Nullah.  Their  entrance  into  it  was  very  characteristic  of  the 
country  and  the  people.  Captain  Burton  says  : 

“We  reached  a large  expanse  of  pillar-stones,  where  the  van 
had  halted,  in  order  that  the  caravan  might  make  its  first  ap- 
pearance with  dignity.  Then  ensued  a clearing,  studded  with 
large  stockaded  villages,  peering  over  tall  hedges  of  dark-green 
milk-bush,  fields  of  maize  and  millet,  manioc,  gourds,  and 
water-melons,  and  showing  numerous  flocks  and  herds,  cluster- 
ing around  the  shallow  pits.  The  people  swarmed  from  their 
abodes,  young  and  old  hustling  one  another  for  a better  stare, 
the  man  forsook  his  loom,  and  the  girl  her  hoe,  and  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  march  we  were  escorted  by  a tail  of  screaming 
boys  and  shouting  adults  ; the  males  almost  nude,  the  women 
bare  to  the  waist,  and  clothed  only  knee-deep  in  kilts,  accom- 
panied us,  puffing  pipes  the  while,  striking  their  hoes  with 
stones,  crying,  ‘ Beads!  beads ! ’ and  ejaculating  their  wonder  in 
strident  expressions  of  ‘ Hi ! hi ! ’ and  ‘ Hiu  ! ill ! ’ and  ‘ Ila  ! a ! 
a!’” 


As  is  the  custom  of  the  country,  the  porters  took  immedinte 
possession  of  the  nearest  large  village,  the  whole  company  dis- 
persing themselves  through  the  courts  and  compounds  of  which 
it  was  composed.  The  two  white  men  were  placed  under  a wall- 
less roof,  bounded  on  one  side  by  the  village  palisade,  and  here 
the  mob  stationed  themselves  to  stare,  relieving  one  another 
from  morning  till  night. 

The  land  now  passed  over  was  the  third  of  the  five  great  re- 
gions into  which  Burton  divides  the  area  between  the  coast 
and  Lake  Tanganyika ; and  the  following  is  the  substance  of 
his  account  of  it : 

“The  third  division  of  the  country  visited  is  a flat  table-land 


248 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE . 


extending  from  the  Ugogi  valley,  at  the  western  base  of  the 
Wasagara  Mountains,  in  E.  longitude  36°  14',  to  Tura,  tlie 
eastern  district  of  Unyamwezi,  inE.  longitude  33°  57';  occupy- 
ing a diagonal  breadth  of  155  geographical  rectilinear  miles. 
The  length  from  north  to  south  is  not  so  easily  estimated.  The 
average  of  the  heights  observed  is  3,650  feet,  with  a gradual 
rise  westward  to  Jiwe  la  Mkoa,  which  attains  an  altitude  of  4,200 
feet.  This  third  region,  situated  to  leeward  of  a range  whose 
height  compels  the  south-east  trades  to  part  with  their  load  of 
vapors,  and  distant  from  the  succession  of  inland  seas  which, 
stationed  near  the  centre  of  the  African  continent,  act  as  reser- 
voirs to  restore  the  balance  of  humidity,  is  an  arid,  sterile  land, 
a counterpart  in  many  places  of  the  Kalahari  and  the  Karroo, 
or  South  African  desert-plains.  The  general  aspect  is  a glaring 
yellow  flat,  darkened  by  long  growths  of  acrid,  saline,  and  suc- 
culent plants,  thorny  bushes,  and  stunted  trees,  and  the  color- 
ing is  monotonous  in  the  extreme.  It  is  sprinkled  with  isolated 
dwarf  cones,  bristling  with  rocks  and  boulders,  from  whose 
interstices  springs  a thin  forest  of  gums,  thorns,  and  mimosas. 

“ The  climate  of  Ugogo  is  markedly  arid.  During  the  tran- 
sit of  the  expedition  in  September  and  October,  the  best  water- 
colors  faded  and  hardened  in  their  pans ; India-rubber,  espe- 
cially the  prepared  article  in  squares,  became  viscid,  like  half- 
dried  bird-lime  ; ‘ Macintosh 5 was  sticking-plaster,  and  the 
best  vulcanized  elastic  bands  tore  like  brown  paper.  During 
almost  the  whole  year  a violent  east  wind  sweeps  from  the 
mountains.  There  are  great  changes  in  the  temperature,  while 
the  weather  apparently  remains  the  same,  and  alternate  cur- 
rents of  hot  and  cold  air  were  observed. 

“ The  superiority  of  climate,  and  probably  the  absence  of 
that  luxuriant  vegetation  which  distinguishes  the  eastern  re- 
gion, have  proved  favorable  to  the  physical  development  of  the 
races  living  in  and  about  Ugogo.  The  Wagogo,  and  their  north- 
ern neighbors,  the  Wahumba,  are  at  once  distinguishable  from 
the  wretched  population  of  the  alluvial  valleys,  and  of  the 
mountains  of  Usagara;  though  living  in  lower  altitudes,  they 
are  a fairer  race — and  therefore  show  better  blood — thanWan- 
yamwezi.  These  two  tribes,  whose  distinctness  is  established  by 
difference  of  dialect,  will  be  described  in  order. 

“ The  Wagogo  display  the  variety  of  complexion  usually 
seen  among  slave-purchasing  races  : many  of  them  are  fair  as 
Abyssinians ; some  are  black  as  negroes.  In  the  eastern  and 
northern  settlements  they  are  a flue,  6tout,  and  light-com- 
plexion ed  race.  Their  main  peculiarity  is  the  smallness  of  the 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


249 


cranium  compared  with  the  broad  circumference  of  the  face  at 
and  below  the  zygomata  : seen  from  behind,  the  appearance  is 
that  of  a small  half  bowl  fitted  upon  one  of  considerably 
larger  bias;  and  this,  with  the  widely  extended  ears,  gives  a re- 
markable expression  to  the  face.  Nowhere  in  Eastern  Africa 
is  the  lobe  so  distended.  Pieces  of  cane  an  inch  or  two  in 
length,  and  nearly  double  the  girth  of  a man’s  finger,  are  so 
disposed  that  they  appear  like  handles  to  the  owner’s  head. 
The  distinctive  mark  of  the  tribe  is  the  absence  of  the  two 
lower  incisors  ; but  they  are  more  generally  recognized  by  the 
unnatural  enlargement  of  their  ears.  In  Eastern  Africa  the 
‘ aurcs  perforate’  are  the  signs  not  of  slavery,  but  of  freedom. 
There  is  no  regular  tattoo,  though  some  of  the  women  have  two 
parallel  lines  running  from  below  the  bosom  down  the  abdo- 
men, and  the  men  often  extract  only  a single  lower  incisor. 
The  hair  is  sometimes  shaved  clean,  at  others  grown  in  mop- 
shape  ; more  generally  it  is  dressed  in  a mass  of  tresses,  as 
among  the  Egyptians,  and  the  skin,  as  well  as  the  large  bunch 
of  corkscrews,  freely  stained  with  ochre  and  micaceous  earths. 

“ The  strength  of  the  Wagogo  lies  in  their  comparative 
numbers.  As  the  people  seldom  travel  to  the  coast,  their 
scattered  villages  are  full  of  fighting  men.  Moreover,  ucliawi, 
or  black  magic,  here  numbers  few  believers,  consequently  those 
drones  of  the  social  hive,  the  waganga,  or  medicine-men,  are 
not  numerous.  The  Wagogo  seldom  sell  their  children  and 
relations,  yet  there  is  no  order  against  the  practice.  They  bar- 
ter for  slaves  their  salt  and  ivory,  the  principal  produce  of  the 
country. 

“ The  Wagogo  are  celebrated  as  thieves  who  will,  like  the 
Wahelie,  rob  even  during  the  day.  They  are  importunate  beg- 
gars, who  specify  their  long  list  of  wants  without  stint  or 
shame : their  principal  demand  is  tobacco,  which  does  not 
grow  in  the  land ; and  they  resemble  the  Somal,  who  never 
sight  a stranger  without  stretching  out  the  hand  for  4 bori.’ 
The  men  are  idle  and  debauched,  spending  their  days  in  un- 
broken crapulence  and  drunkenness,  while  the  girls  and  women 
hoc  the  fields,  and  the  boys  tend  the  flocks  and  herds.  They 
mix  honey  with  their  pombe,  or  beer,  and  each  man  provides 
entertainment  for  his  neighbors  in  turn.  After  mid-day  it 
would  be  difficult  throughout  the  country  to  find  a chief  with- 
out the  thick  voice,  fiery  eyes,  and  moidered  manners,  which 
prove  that  he  is  either  drinking  or  drunk. 

“ The  Walmmba  are  a fair  and  comely  race,  with  the  appear- 
ance of  mountaineers,  long-legged  and  lightly  made.  They 


250 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


have  repeatedly  ravaged  the  lands  of  Usagara  and  Ugogo;  in 
the  latter  country,  near  Usek’he,  there  are  several  settlements 
of  this  people,  who  have  exchanged  the  hide-tent  for  the  lmt, 
and  the  skin  for  the  cotton  cloth.  They  stain  their  garments 
with  ochrish  earth,  and  their  women  are  distinguished  by  wear- 
ing kitindi  of  full  and  half  size  above  and  below  the  elbows. 
Tlie  ear-lobes  are  pierced  and  distended  by  both  sexes,  as 
among  the  Wagogo.  In  their  own  land  they  are  purely  pas- 
toral ; they  grow  no  grain,  despise  vegetable  food,  and  subsist 
entirely  upon  meat  or  milk  according  to  the  season.  Their 
habitations  are  hemispheres  of  boughs  lashed  together  and 
roofed  with  a cow’s  hide ; it  is  the  primitive  dwelling-place, 
and  the  legs  of  the  occupant  protrude  beyond  the  shelter. 
Their  arms,  which  are  ever  hung  up  close  at  hand,  are  broad- 
headed spears  of  soft  iron,  long  ‘ sine,’  or  double-edged  dag- 
gers, with  ribbed  wooden  handles  fastened  to  the  blade  by  "a 
strip  of  cow’s  tail  shrunk  on,  and  ‘ rungu,’  or  wooden  knob- 
kerries,  with  double  bulges  that  “weight  the  weapon  as  it  whirls 
through  the  air.  They  ignore  and  apparently  despise  the  bow 
and  arrows,  but  i'n  battle  they  carry  the  pavoise,  or  large  hide- 
shield,  affected  by  the  Kafirs  [Kaffres]  of  the  Cape.” 

Tura,  the  point  which  the  expedition  had  now  reached,  was 
actually  within  the  boundaries  of  Unyamwezi,  the  “ Land  of  the 
Moon.”  Before  entering  the  country,  they  were  warned  by  an 
Arab  merchant  that  the  natives  were  dangerous,  and  it  was  sug- 
gested that  their  escort  was  not  strong  enough.  But  the  intrepid 
explorers  were  not  to  be  daunted  ; nor  does  it  appear  that  there 
was  any  special  ground  for  alarm,  as  they  suffered  no  further 
interruption  than  a little  pillage,  against  which  they  were 
never  secure  at  any  part  of  their  journey.  They  had  been  out 
134  days  and  had  marched  nearly  600  miles  when,  on  November 
7th,  they  arrived  at  Kazeh,  the  great  centre  of  commerce  of 
Eastern  Unyamwezi,  and  the  emporium  of  the  Omani  merchants. 
The  scene  of  their  entrance  into  Tura  Nullah  was- here  repeated, 
but  on  a grander  scale ; for  Kazeh  was  a city  compared  with 
the  settlements  through  which  they  had  hitherto  passed.  It  is 
the  custom  for  a caravan  when  it  comes  within  a certain  dis- 
tance of  one  of  these  settlements,  to  prepare  for  producing  an 
impression.  The  “whole  company  is  collected  together,  and, 
putting  on  their  finery,  they  make  a display  of  their  resources. 
On  this  occasion  the  caravan  had  been  marching  from  a very 
early  hour.  It  was  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning  when  they 
halted  to  put  themselves  in  readiness  ; and  preliminaries  being 
over,  the  whole  body  began  to  move  in  a snake-like  line  over 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


251 


the  plain,  with  flags  flying,  horns  blowing,  muskets  firing,  and, 
to  augment  the  uproar,  every  one  shouting  at  the  top  of  his 
voice.  As  they  approached  the  town  they  were  received  with 
genuine  African  welcome.  “ The  road  was  lined  with  people,’7 
says  Burton, 41  and  they  attempted  to  vie  with  ns  in  volume 
and  variety  of  sound ; all  had  donned  their  best  attire,  and  with 
such  luxury  my  eyes  had  long  been  unfamiliar.  Advancing,  I 
saw  several  Arabs  standing  by  the  wayside ; they  gave  the 
Moslem  salutation,  and  courteously  accompanied  us  for  some 
distance.”  The  travellers  having  been  allowed  a clear  day  of 
rest,  and  time  for  dismissing  their  porters,  the  principal  Arab 
merchants  paid  a visit  on  the  following  morning.  This  was 
not  in  the  way  of  mere  ceremony,  but  was  a matter  of  kind- 
ness and  true  hospitality : 

“ Nothing  could  be  more  encouraging  than  the  reception  ex- 
perienced from  the  Omani  Arabs.  Striking  indeed  was  the 
contrast  between  the  open-handed  hospitality  and  the  hearty 
good-will  of  this  truly  noble  race,  and  the  niggardliness  and 
selfishness  of  the  Africans — it  was  the  heart  of  flesh,  after  the 
heart  of  stone.  A goat  and  a load  of  the  fine  wdiito  rice  grown 
in  the  country  were  the  normal  prelude  to  a visit,  and  to  offers 
of  service  which  proved  something  more  than  a mere  vox  et 
preeterea  nihil . whatever  I alluded  to — onions,  plantains, 
limes,  vegetables,  tamarind  cakes,  coffee  from  Karagwah,  and 
similar  articles,  only  to  be  found  amongst  the  Arabs — were  sent 
at  once,  and  the  very  name  of  payment  would  have  been  an 
insult.” 

Kazeh,in  the  plain  of  Unyanyembe,  the  central  and  principal 
province  of  the  Land  of  the  Moon,  offers  singular  advantages 
for  the  purposes  which  drew  together  its  residents.  The  plain, 
which  is  3,480  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  has  open  com- 
munications to  the  north,  south,  and  west  by  well-traversed  di- 
verging lines  ; and  its  favorable  position  as  a safe  centre  for 
commercial  operations  has  gradually  made  it  the  head-quarters 
of  the  Omani,  or  pure  Arabs,  who  not  only  form  establishments 
here,  but  in  many  instances  remain  personally  in  charge  of  their 
depots,  while  their  factors  and  slaves  travel  about  the  country 
executing  their  commissions.  There  are  several  villages  and 
settlements  in  the  plain,  but  they  are  usually  small.  There  are 
clusters  of  native  hovels,  here  and  there,  each  bearing  the  name 
of  its  chief : there  is  a little  colony  of  Arab  merchants,  called 
Moreti,  consisting  of  four  large  houses ; and  in  the  midst  there 
is  the  settlement  of  Kazeh,  which  is  a scattered  collection  of  six 
large  hollow  oblongs,  with  central  courts,  garden-plots,  store- 


252 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


rooms,  and  outhouses  for  the  slaves.  The  Arabs  who  frequent 
the  place  are  visitors — not  colonists.  They,  therefore,  do  not 
increase  in  number  or  gather  strength.  They  live  comfortably, 
and  their  mode  of  life  lias  even  an  air  of  splendor  when  com- 
pared with  the  squalor  by  which  they  are  surrounded.  Their 
houses,  though  single-storied,  are  large,  substantial,  and  capable 
of  defence.  Their  gardens  are  extensive  and  well- cultivated. 
They  receive  regular  supplies  of  merchandise,  comforts,  and 
luxuries  from  the  coast.  They  are  surrounded  by  concubines 
and  slaves,  whom  they  train  to  divers  crafts  and  callings.  Rich 
men  have  riding-asses  from  Zanzibar,  and  .even  the  poorest 
keep  flocks  and  herds.  Their  houses  have  deep  and  shady 
verandas,  where  there  is  a broad  bench  of  raised  earth-work, 
which  the  men  use  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  coolness  of  the 
morning,  and  the  serenity  of  the  evening — where  also  they 
pray,  converse,  and  transact  business.  A portcullis  lets  down, 
composed  of  two  massive  planks,  with  chains  as  thick  as  the 
cable  of  a ship — a precaution  rendered  necessary  by  the  pres- 
ence of  wild  slaves : this  leads  into  the  carzah,  or  vestibule. 
The  only  furniture  is  a pair  of  clay  benches,  extending  along 
the  right  and  left  sides,  with  ornamental  terminations.  When 
visitors  are  expected,  rich  mats  and  rugs  are  spread  over  them. 
The  rooms  have  neither  doors  nor  windows,  and  are  lighted  by 
bulls’-cyes,  which  serve  as  loopholes  in  case  of  need.  There 
are  separate  apartments  for  the  harem ; and  the  slaves  live  in 
outhouses. 

From  the  8th  of  November  to  the  14th  of  December,  the 
party  were  delayed  at  Kazeh  by  illness  and  difficulties  witli 
their  attendants.  Resuming  their  journey,  they  were  charmed 
by  the  character  of  the  country  through  which  they  passed. 
“ At  the  sunset  hour  the  4 Land  of  the  Moon  9 is  replete  with  en- 
joyment. At  this  time  all  is  life.  The  vulture  soars  with 
silent  flight  high  in  the  blue  expanse  ; the  small  birds  preen 
themselves  for  the  night,  and  sing  their  evening  hymns ; the 
cattle  and  flocks  frisk  and  gambol ; and  the  people  busy  them- 
selves with  simple  pleasures  that  end  the  day.” 

In  a fortnight  the  travellers  arrived  at  Mesne,  the  commer- 
cial centre  of  Western  Ui^amwezi,  and  the  capital  of  the  coast 
Arabs,  as  Unyanyembe  is  of  the  Omani.  It  is  a rather  more 
important  place  than  Kazeh  and  its  surrounding  hovels,  and 
has  an  African  bazaar,  an  open  space  between  the  houses, 
where  bullocks  are  slaughtered  daily,  and  a vegetable  market. 
There  is  also  a small  amount  of  industry  at  Mesne,  which  con- 
sists of  the  manufacture  of  cloths,  coarse  mats,  clay  pipe-heads, 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


253 


and  ironmongery.  But  the  morals  of  the  people  are  very  low, 
and  at  the  end  of  twelve  days  the  Englishmen  were  thankful  to 
escape  to  the  open  country.  They  were  delayed  several  days 
at  Solola  in  order  to  replenish  certain  of  their  supplies.  At  this 
place,  in  consequence  of  the  mutinous  and  disorderly  conduct 
of  the  retinue,  some  of  whom  had  entered  into  a conspiracy  to 
prevent  the  expedition  from  embarking  on  the  “ Sea  of  Ujiji,” 
to  ascertain  the  limits  of  which  was  one  of  the  main  objects 
contemplated,  the  slaves  who  had  been  hired  for  six  months 
were  dismissed  as  a measure  of  precaution,  and  the  expedition 
resumed  its  march  without  them  on  the  16th  of  January,  1858. 
At  Kajjanjeri,  another  pestilential  spot,  Capt.  Burton,  who 
had  been  previously  ill,  was  struck  down  by  an  attack  of  palsy 
and  muscular  contraction,  which  lasted  for  ten  days  and  which 
left  its  traces  on  him  for  a year.  Not  long  afterwards,  Captain 
Speke,  whose  strength  had  been  greatly  reduced  by  fever,  was 
assailed  by  inflammatory  ophthalmia.  The  record  of  these  ex- 
plorations bear  many  indications  of  personal  suffering.  But 
there  was  no  help  for  it  but  to  push  on,  well  or  ill.  Beaching 
the  banks  of  the  Malagarazi  river,  at  Ugaga,  they  were  exposed 
to  fresh  extortions  both  on  the  part  of  the  chief  and  of  the 
ferrymen.  But,  having  crossed  the  river,  they  entered  the  fifth 
and  last  region  through  which  their  journey  was  to  lead  them  to 
Tanganyika  Lake,  or,  as  it  is  otherwise  called,  the  Sea  of  Ujiji. 

Burton  regards  the  Malagarazi  River  as  the  western  boundary 
of  Unyamwezi,  though  the  nominal  frontier  had  been  crossed 
some  days  back.  The  name  of  Unyamwezi  was  first  mentioned 
by  the  Portuguese  navigators  nearly  three  hundred  years  ago  ; 
and  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  Ptolemy’s  “ Mountains  of  the 
Moon”  referred  to  the  range  which  bounds  this  central  table- 
land on  the  east,  and  the  highest  peaks  of  which  are  Kenia  and 
Kilimandiaro.  In  Burton’s  description  of  the  country  he 
says:  “The  fourth  division  is  a hilly  table-land,  extending 
from  the  western  skirts  of  the  desert  Mgunda  Mk’hali,  in  E. 
long.  33°  57',  to  the  eastern  banks  of  the  Malagarazi  River, 
in  E.  long.  31°  10';  it  thus  stretches  diagonally  over  155 
rectilinear  geographical  miles.  Bounded  on  the  north  by  Usui 
and  the  Nyanza  Lake,  to  the  south-eastward  by  Ugala,  south- 
ward by  Ukiinbu,  and  south-westward  by  Uwende,  it  has  a 
depth  of  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  marches.  Native  caravans, 
if  lightly  laden,  can  accomplish  it  in  twenty-five  days,  includ- 
ing four  halts.  The  maximum  altitude  observed  was  4,050 
feet,  the  minimum  2,850.  This  region  contains  the  two  great 
divisions  of  Unyamwezi  and  Uvinza.” 


7 

t 


254 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


There  is  the  evidence  of  barbarous  tradition  for  a belief  in 
the  existence  of  Unyamwezi  as  a great  empire  united  under  a 
single  despot.  The  elders  declare  that  their  patriarchal  ances- 
tor became  after  death  the  first  tree,  and  afforded  shade  to  his 
children  and  descendents.  According  to  the  Arabs,  the  peo- 
ple still  perform  pilgrimage  to  a holy  tree,  and  believe  that  the 
penalty  of  sacrilege  in  cutting  off  a twig  would  be  visited  by 
sudden  and  mysterious  death.  All  agree  in  relating  that  dur- 
ing the  olden  time  Unyamwezi  was  united  under  a single  sov- 
ereign, whose  tribe  was  the  Wakalaganza,  still  inhabiting  the 
western  district,  Usagozi.  According  to  the  people,  whose 
greatest  chronological  measure  is  a masiJea , or  rainy  season,  in 
the  days  of  the  grandfathers  of  their  grandfathers,  the  last  of  the 
Wany am wezi  emperors  died.  Ilis  children  and  nobles  divided 
and  dismembered  his  dominions,  further  partitions  ensued,  and 
finally  the  old  empire  fell  into  the  hands  of  a rabble  of  petty 
chiefs.  Their  wild  computation  would  point  to  an  epoch  of 
150  years  ago — a date  by  no  means  improbable. 

“ The  Land  of  the  Moon,  which  is  the  garden  of  Central  In- 
ter-tropical Africa,  presents  an  aspect  of  peaceful  rural  beauty 
which  soothes  the  eye  like  a medicine  after  the  red  glare  of 
barren  Ugogo,  and  the  dark,  monotonous  verdure  of  the  western 
provinces.  The  inhabitants  are  comparatively  numerous  in  the 
villages,  which  rise  at  short  intervals  above  their  impervious 
walls  of  the  lustrous  green  milk-bush,  with  its  coral-shaped 
arms,  variegating  the  well-hoed  plains ; while  in  the  pasture- 
lands  frequent  herds  of  many-colored  cattle,  plump,  round- 
barrelled,  and  high-liumped,  like  the  Indian  breeds,  and 
mingled  flocks  of  goats  and  sheep  dispersed  over  the  landscape, 
suggest  ideas  of  barbarous  comfort  and  plenty.  There  are  few 
scenes  more  soft  and  soothing  than  a view  of  Unyamwezi  in 
the  balmy  evenings  of  spring.  As  the  large  yellow  sun  nears 
the  horizon,  a deep  stillness  falls  upon  earth : even  the 
zephyr  seems  to  lose  the  power  of  rustling  the  lightest  leaf. 
The  charm  of  the  hour  seems  to  affect  even  the  unimaginative 
Africans,  as  they  sit  in  the  central  spaces  of  their  villages,  or, 
6trctehed  under  the  forest-trees,  gaze  upon  the  glories  around. 

“ The  rainy  monsoon  is  here  ushered  in,  accompanied  and 
terminated  by  storms  of  thunder  and  lightning,  and  occasional 
hail-falls.  The  blinding  flashes  of  white,  yellow,  or  rose-color 
play  over  the  firmament  uninterruptedly  for  hours,  during  which 
no  darkness  is  visible.  In  the  lighter  storms  thirty  and  thirty- 
five  flashes  may  be  counted  in  a minute : so  vivid  is  the  glare 
that  it  discloses  the  finest  shades  of  color,  and  appears  followed 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


255 


by  a thick  and  palpable  gloom,  such  as  would  hang  before  a 
blind  man’s  eyes,  while  a deafening  roar,  simultaneously  fol- 
lowing the  flash,  seems  to  travel,  as  it  were,  to  and  fro  over- 
head. Several  claps  sometimes  sound  almost  at  the  same  mo- 
ment, and  as  if  coming  from  different  directions.  The  same 
storm  will,  after  the  most  violent  of  its  discharges,  pass  over, 
and  be  immediately  followed  by  a second,  showing  the  super- 
abundance of  electricity"  in  the  atmosphere. 

“ Travellers  from  Unyamwczi  homeward  returned  often  rep- 
resent that  country  to  be  the  healthiest  in  Eastern  and  Central 
Africa : they  quote,  as  a proof,  the  keenness  of  their  appetites, 
and  the  quantity  of  food  which  they  consume.  The  older  resi- 
dents, however,  modify  their  opinions  : they  declare  that  diges- 
tion does  not  wait  upon  appetite  ; and  that,  as  in  Egypt,  Maz- 
anderan,  Malabar,  and  other  hot-damp  countries,  no  man  long 
retains  rude  health.  The  sequels  of  their  maladies  are  always 
severe ; few  care  to  use  remedies,  deeming  them  inefficacious 
against  morbific  influences  to  them  unknown ; convalescence 
is  protracted,  painful,  and  uncertain,  and  at  length  they  are 
compelled  to  lead  the  lives  of  confirmed  invalids.  The  gifts  of 
the  climate,  lassitude  and  indolence,  according  to  them,  predis- 
pose to  corpulence;  and  the  regular  warmth  induces  baldness, 
and  thins  the  beard,  thus  assimilating  strangers  in  body  as  in 
mind  to  the  aborigines.” 

“The  races  requiring  notice  in  this  region  are  two,  the  ¥a- 
kimbu  and  the  Wanyamwezi. 

“ The  Wakimbu,  who  are  emigrants  into  Unyamwezi,  claim  a 
noble  origin,  and  derive  themselves  from  the  broad  lands  run- 
ning south  of  Unyanyembe  as  far  westward  as  K’hokoro. 
About  twenty7  masika,  wet  monsoons,  or  years  ago,  according  to 
themselves,  they  left  Nguru,  Usanga,  and  Usenga,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  repeated  attacks  of  the  Warori,  and  migrated  to 
Kipiri,  the  district  lying  south  of  Tura;  they  have  now  ex- 
tended into  Ngunda  Mk’hali  and  Unyanyembe,  where  they 
hold  the  land  by7  permission  of  the  Wanyamwezi.  In  these 
regions  there  are  few  obstacles  to  immigrants.  They  visit  the 
sultan,  make  a small  present,  obtain  permission  to  settle,  and 
name  the  village  after  their  own  chief;  but  the  original  pro- 
prietors still  maintain  their  rights  to  the  soil.  The  Wakimbu 
build  firmly  stockaded  villages,  tend  cattle,  and  cultivate  sor- 
ghum and  maize,  millet  and  pulse,  cucumbers  and  water- 
melons. Apparently  they  are  poor,  being  generally  clad  in 
skins.  They  barter  slaves  and  ivory  in  small  quantities  to  the 
merchants,  and  some  travel  to  the  coast.  They  are  considered 


256 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


treacherous  by  their  neighbors,  and  Mapokera,  the  sultan  of 
Tura,  is,  according  to  the  Arabs,  prone  to  commit  4 avanies .’ 
They  are  known  by  a number  of  small  lines  formed  by  raising 
the  skin  with  a needle,  and  opening  it  by  points  laterally  be- 
tween the  hair  of  the  temples  and  the  eyebrows.  In  appear- 
ance they  are  dark  and  uncomely : their  arms  are  bows  and 
arrows,  spears,  and  knive3  stuck  in  the  leathern  waist-belt ; 
some  wear  necklaces  of  curiously  plaited  straw,  others  a strip 
of  white  cowskin  bound  around  the  brow — a truly  savage  and 
African  decoration.  Their  language  differs  from  Kinyam- 
wezi. 

“ The  Wanyamwezi  tribe,  the  proprietors  of  the  soil,  is  the 
typical  race  in  this  portion  of  Central  Africa:  its  compara- 
tive industry  and  commercial  activity  have  secured  to  it  a 
superiority  over  the  other  kindred  races.  The  aspect  of  the 
Wanyamwezi  is  alone  sufficient  to  disprove  the  existence  of 
very  elevated  lands  in  this  part  of  the  African  interior.  They 
are  usually  of  a dark  sepia-brown,  rarely  colored  like  diluted 
Indian-ink,  as  are  the  Waliiao  and  slave  races  to  the  south, 
with  negroid  features  markedly  less  Semitic  than  the  people 
of  the  eastern  coast.  The  effiuvium  from  their  skins,  especially' 
after  exercise  or  excitement,  marks  their  connection  with  the 
negro.  The  hair  curls  crisply,  but  it  grows  to  the  length  of 
four  or  five  inches  before  it  splits ; it  is  usually  twisted  into 
many  little  ringlets  or  hanks;  it  hangs  down  like  a fringe  to 
the  neck,  and  is  combed  off  the  forehead  after  the  mauner  of 
the  ancient  Egyptians  and  the  modern  Hottentots. 

44  There  are  but  few  ceremonies  among  the  Wanyaimvezi. 
A woman  about  to  become  a mother  retires  from  the  hut  to 
the  jungle,  and  after  a few  hours  returns  with  a child  wrapped 
in  goat-skin  upon  her  back,  and  probably  carrying  a load  of 
firewood  on  her  head.  The  medical  treatment  of  the  Arabs 
with  salt  and  various  astringents  for  forty  days  is  here  un- 
known. Twins  are  not  common,  as  among  the  Kafir  race,  and 
one  of  the  two  is  invariably  put  to  death.  The  universal  cus- 
tom among  these  tribes  is  for  the  mother  to  wrap  a gourd  or 
calabash  in  skins,  to  place  it  to  sleep  with  and  to  feed  it  like 
the  survivor.  If  the  wife  die  without  issue,  the  widower 
claims  from  her  parents  the  sum  paid  to  them  upon  marriage; 
if  she  leave  a child,  the  property  is  preserved  for  it.  When 
the  father  can  afford  it,  a birth  is  celebrated  by  copious  liba- 
tions of  pouibe.  Children  are  suckled  till  the  end  of  the  sec- 
ond year.  Their  only  education  is  in  the  use  of  the  bow  and 
arrow ; after  the  fourth  summer  the  boy  begins  to  learn 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


257 


archer}"  with  diminutive  weapons,  which  are  gradually  increased 
in  strength.  Names  are  given  without  ceremony,  arid,  as  in 
the  countries  to  the  eastward,  many  of  the  heathens  have  been 
called  after  their  Arab  visitors.  Circumcision  is  not  practised 
by  this  people.  The  children  in  Unvamwezi  generally  are  the 
property,  not  of  the  uncle,  but  of  the  father,  who  can  sell  or 
slay  them  without  blame  ; in  IJsukmna,  or  tlio  northern  lands, 
however,  succession  and  inheritance  are  claimed  by  the 
nephews  or  sisters’  sons.  The  Wanyamwezi  have  adopted  the 
curious  practice  of  leaving  property  to  their  illegitimate  chil- 
dren by  slave-girls  or  concubines,  to  the  exclusion  of  their 
issue  by  wives  ; they  justify  it  by  the  fact  of  the  former  re- 
quiring their  assistance  more  than  the  latter,  who  have  friends 
and  relatives  to  aid  them.  As  soon  as  the  boy  can  walk  he 
tends  the  flocks ; after  the  age  of  ten  he  drives  the  cattle  to 
pasture,  and,  considering  himself  independent  of  his  father, 
he  plants  a tobacco-plot,  and  aspires  to  build  a hut  for  himself. 
There  is  not  a boy  4 which  cannot  earn  his  own  meat.’ 

44  Another  peculiarity  of  the  Wanyamwezi  is  the  position  of 
the  wahara,  or  unmarried  girls.  Until  puberty  they  live  in  the 
father’s  house  ; after  that  period  the  spinsters  of  the  village, 
who  usually  number  from  seven  to  a dozen,  assemble  together 
and  build  for  themselves,  at  a distance  from  their  homes,  a hut 
where  they  can  receive  their  friends  without  parental  inter- 
ference. There  is  but  one  limit  to  community  in  single  life  ; 
if  the  inhara,  or  4 maiden,’  be  likely  to  become  a mother,  her 
4 young  man  ’ must  marry  her,  under  pain  of  mulct;  and  if 
she  die  in  childbirth,  her  father  demands  from  her  lover  a large 
fine  for  having  taken  away  his  daughter’s  life.  Marriage 
takes  place  when  the  youth  can  afford  to  pay  the  price  for  a 
wife ; it  varies,  according  to  circumstances,  from  one  to  ten 
cows. 

4k  The  habitations  of  the  Eastern  Wanyamwezi  are  the  terribe, 
which  in  the  west  give  way  to  the  circular  African  hut ; 
among  the  poorer  sub-tribes  the  dwelling  is  a mere  stack  of 
straw.  The  best  tembe  have  large  projecting  eaves  supported 
by  uprights;  cleanliness,  however,  can  never  be  expected  in 
them.  Having  no  limestone,  the  people  ornament  the  inner 
and  outer  walls  with  long  lines  of  ovals  formed  by  pressure  of 
the  finger-tips,  after  dipping  them  in  ashes  and  water  for 
whitewash,  and  into  red  clay  or  black  mud  for  variety  of  color. 
With  this  primitive  material  they  sometimes  attempt  rude  imi- 
tations of  nature — human  beings  and  serpents.  In  some  parts 
the  cross  appears,  but  the  people  apparently  ignore  it  as  a sym- 
17 


258 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


bol.  Rude  carving  is  also  attempted  upon  the  massive  posts 
at  the  entrance  of  villages,  but  the  figures,  though  to  appear- 
ance idolatrous,  are  never  worshipped.” 

The  Wanyamwezi  have  won  for  themselves  a reputation  by 
their  commercial  industry.  Encouraged  by  the  merchants, 
they  are  the  only  professional  porters  of  East  Africa ; and 
even  among  them  the  Waklaganza,  Wasumbwa,  and  "YVasnku- 
ina,  are  the  only  tribes  who  regularly  visit  the  coast  in  this 
capacity.  They  are  now  no  longer  “ honest  and  civil  to 
strangers ; ” semi-civilization  has  hitherto  tended  to  degrada- 
tion. They  seem  to  have  learned  but  little  by  their  intercourse 
with  the  Arabs.  Commerce  with  them  is  still  in  its  infancy. 
They  have  no  idea  of  credit,  although  in  Karagwah  and  the 
northern  kingdoms  payment  may  be  delayed  for  a period  of 
two  years.  They  cannot,  like  some  of  their  neighbors,  bar- 
gain : a man  names  the  article  which  he  requires,  and  if  it  be 
not  forthcoming,  he  will  take  no  other. 

The  march  from  the  Malagarazi  River  to  the  Lake  was  the 
worst  of  all.  It  led  them  through  a wilderness  of  jungle, 
swamps,  rocky  ravines  swept  by  torrents,  and  over  rugged  hills. 
But,  with  careful  management  of  their  own  resources,  and  oc- 
casional help  from  passing  caravans,  they  at  last  came  in  sight 
of  the  sea,  which  had  been  the  object  of  all  their  toils.  Bur- 
ton says : 

“ On  the  13th  of  February  we  resumed  our  travels  through 
screens  of  lofty  grass,  which  thinned  out  into  a straggling  for- 
est. After  about  an  hour’s  march,  as  we  entered  a small 
savannah,  I saw  the  fundi  running  forward  and  changing  the 
direction  of  the  caravan.  Without  supposing  that  he  had 
taken  upon  himself  this  responsibility,  I followed  him.  Pres- 
ently he  breasted  a steep  and  stony  hill,  sparsely  clad  witli 
thorny  trees.  Arrived  with  toil,  for  our  fagged  beasts  now 
refused  to  proceed,  we  halted  for  a few  minutes  upon  the  sum- 
mit. 4 What  is  that  streak  of  light  which  lies  below?’  I 
inquired  of  Seedy  Bombay.  ‘ I am  of  opinion,’  quoth  Bom- 
bay, • that  that  is  the  water.’  I gazed  in  dismay  ; the  remains 
of  my  blindness,  the  veil  of  trees,  and  a broad  ray  of  sunshine 
illuminating  but  one  reach  of  the  lake  bend,  shrunk  its  fair 
proportions.  Somewhat  prematurely,  I began  to  lament  my 
folly  in  having  risked  life  and  lost  breath  for  so  poor  a prize, 
to  curse  Arab  exaggeration,  and  to  propose  an  immediate 
return,  with  the  view  of  exploring  Nyanza,  a northern  lake. 
Advancing,  however,  a few  yards,  the  whole  scene  burst  upon 
my  view,  tilling  me  with  admiration,  wonder,  and  delight.” 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


259 


“Nothing,”  lie  adds,  “ could  be  more  picturesque  than  this'  first 
view  of  the  Tanganyika  Lake,  as  it  lay  in  the  lap  of  the  moun- 
tains, basking  in  the  gorgeous  tropical  sunshine.  Below  and 
beyond  a short  foreground  of  rugged  and  precipitous  hill-fold, 
down  which  the  footpath  zigzags  painfully,  a narrow  strip  of 
emerald  green,  never  sere,  and  marvellously  fertile,  shelves 
toward  a ribbon  of  glistening  yellow  sand,  here  bordered  by 
sedgy  rushes,  there  cleanly  and  clearly  cut  by  the  breaking 
wavelets.  Farther  in  front  stretch  the  waters — an  expanse  of 
the  lightest  and  softest  blue — in  breadth  varying  from  thirty 
to  thirty -five  miles,  and  sprinkled  by  the  crisp  cast  wind  with 
tiny  crescents  of  snowy  foam.  The  background  in  front  is  a 
high  and  broken  wall  of  steel-colored  mountain,  here  flecked 
and  capped  with  pearly  mist,  there  standing  sharply  pencilled 
against  the  azure  air;  its  yawning  chasms,  marked  by  a deeper 
plum-color,  fall  toward  dwarf  hills  of  mound-like  proportions, 
which  apparently  dip  their  feet  in  the  wave.  To  the  south, 
and  opposite  the  long  low  point  behind  which  the  Malagarazi 
Biver  discharges  the  red  loam  suspended  in  its  violent  stream, 
lie  the  bluff  headlands  and  capes  of  Uguhha,  and,  as  the  eye 
dilates,  it  falls  upon  a cluster  of  outlying  islets  speckling  a sea- 
horizon.  Villages,  cultivated  lands,  the  frequent  canoes  of  the 
fishermen  on  the  waters,  and,  on  a nearer  approach,  the  mur- 
murs of  the  waves  breaking  upon  the  shore,  give  a something 
of  variety,  of  movement,  of  life  to  the  landscape,  which,  like 
all  the  fairest  prospects  in  these  regions,  wants  but  a little  of 
the  neatness  and  finish  of  art — mosques  and  kiosks,  palaces 
and  villas,  gardens  and  orchards — contrasting  with  the  profuse 
lavishness  and  magnificence  of  nature,  and  diversifying  the 
unbroken  coup  d'ceil  of  excessive  vegetation,  to  rival,  if  not  to 
excel,  the  most  admired  scenery  of  the  classic  regions,  the  riant 
shores  of  this  vast  crevasse  appeared  doubly  beautiful  to  me 
after  the  silent  and  spectral  mangrove-creeks  on  the  East  Afri- 
can sea-board,  and  the  melancholy,  monotonous  experience  of 
desert  and  jungle  scenery,  tawny  rock  and  sun-parched  plain, 
or  rank  herbage  and  flats  of  black  mire.  Truly  it  was  a revel 
for  soul  and  sight.” 

The  fundi  alluded  to  in  the  passage  above  quoted  was  the 
steward,  or  laitor , of  an  Arab  who  had  a residence  at  Uka- 
ranga,  the  spot  on  the  border  of  the  lake  to  which,  for  his  own 
purposes,  he  had  directed  the  route  of  the  caravan.  II is  sub- 
sequent attempts  at  imposition  were  frustrated  by  the  prompti- 
tude of  the  travellers,  who  proceeded  at  once  to  Kawele, 
which  may  be  considered  as  the  port  of  Ujiji — a small  ragged 


260 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


place,  a little  to  the  north  of  Ukaranga.  Here  they  sat  clown 
to  contemplate  the  object  of  the  expedition,  and  the  means  by 
which  it  could  be  accomplished.  The  lake  or  sea  was  before 
them.  Lodged  in  a tolerably  cool  and  comfortable  house,  or 
hut,  their  first  care  was  to  put  it  into  condition  for  a lengthy 
residence,  by  fumigating  the  floors  and  walls  and  preparing 
the  roof  against  the  rainy  season;  and  the  next  step  was  to 
procure  some  proper  description  of  craft  for  navigating  the 
lake.  In  the  former  they  succeeded  moderately;  but  in  the 
latter  they  altogether  failed.  They  had  heard  of  a river 
which  had  its  source  in  the  lake,  issuing  from  it  towards  the 
north.  One  Arab  declared  that  he  had  seen  the  place,  and 
that,  although  he  had  been  attacked  by  many  canoes,  he  had 
gone  far  enough  to  feel  the  influence  of  the  river  draining  the 
lake : and  another  affirmed  that  he  also  had  seen  the  stream. 
Standiug  on  the  margin  of  the  water,  the  adventurers  gazed 
with  longing  eyes  in  the  direction  of  the  supposed  river,  and 
only  wanted  a vessel  to  convey  them  thither;  but  that  they 
could  not  obtain.  The  case  was  apparently  hopeless  on  ac- 
count of  the  extortions  attempted,  and  the  difficulties  put  in 
the  way  by  the  coast  people.  It  was  also  reported  that  the  war- 
like tribes  living  to  the  north  would  not  permit  any  strangers 
to  pass  beyond  a certain  limit  even  for  the  purposes  of 
trading.  But  the  travellers  would  not  be  discouraged,  and  re- 
solved to  persevere.  Since,  therefore,  they  could  find  no  vessel 
at  Kawele,  Captain  Speke  went  in  a canoe,  with  a crew  of 
twenty  men,  to  Ukaranga,  for  the  purpose  of  hiring  a dhow 
from  the  Arab  merchant  there,  he  being  the  owner  of  the  only 
sailing  craft  on  the  lake  large  enough  for  the  purposes  of  the 
expedition.  Twenty-seven  days  elapsed  before  he  returned. 
Meanwhile  Burton  'had  a weary  time  of  it,  watching  the  day- 
light come  and  go,  and  literally  unable  to  do  anything.  His 
chief  hardship  appears  to  have  been  the  difficulty  he  experi- 
enced in  procuring  game  and  butcher’s  meat;  but  as  he  had 
an  ample  supply  of  fish  of  various  kinds,  and  abundance  of 
poultry  and  vegetables,  his  wras  not  a case  of  despair.  Cap- 
tain Speke  at  last  returned,  but  without  the  dhow.  The  Arab 
had  detained  him  from  day  to  day  by  means  of  frivolous  ex- 
cuses, and  finally  promised  to  let  him  have  it  at  the  end  of 
three  months. 

At  length  an  arrangement  was  made  with  the  head  man  at 
Kawele,  for  an  exorbitant  sum,  to  provide  twTo  canoes,  the  one 
sixty  feet  by  four,  and  the  other  about  two-thirds  of  that  size ; 
and  in  these  utterly  inadequate  boats  the  expedition  essayed  to 


201 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 

navigate  the  waters  of  Lake  Tanganyika.  Most  readers  are 
aware  that  the  African  canoe  is  simply  a scooped  tree.  In 
sneli  a climate  it  cracks,  and,  for  want  of  caulking,  becomes 
so  extremely  leaky  that  the  process  of  baling  is  uninterrupted I, 
the  crew  regularly  taking  it  in  turn.  .There  are  lieithei  masts 
nor  sails ; an  iron  ring  in  the  stern  serves  for  a rudder,  but  the 
steering  is  really  done  by  the  paddle.  There  arc  no  oais,  and 
the  paddle  which  is  substituted  for  the  oar  is  the  perfection  of 
clumsiness.  The  crew  sit  on  narrow  benches,  two  together  in 
a space  hardly  large  enough  for  one.  There  is  a clear  space 
in  the  centre,  about  six  feet  long,  and  there  are  stored  cargo, 
passengers,  cattle,  slaves,  and  provisions.  There  also  the  bal- 
],i<r  is  performed  ; and  the  splashing  being  perpetual,  the  boat 
is  always  wet.  Captain  Burton  says:  “Wo  expended  upwards 
of  a month— from  the  10th  April  to  the  13tli  May,  18o8— in 
this  voyage,  fifteen  days  outward  bound,  nine  at  Uina,  and 
nine  in  returning.  The  boating  was  rather  a severe  trial.  W c 
had  no  means  of  resting  the  back ; the  holds  of  the  canoes, 
besides  being  knee-deep  in  water,  were  disgracefully  ciowded, 
they  had  lieen  appropriated  to  us  and  our  four £ 
Kaunena,  but  by  degrees  he  introduced,  in  addition  to  the 
stores,  spars,  broken  vases,  pots  and  gourds  a goat  two  or 
throe  small  boys,  one  or  two  sick  sailors,  the  little  slav  e ^nl, 
and  the  large  sheep.  The  canoes  were  top-heavy  with  the 
number  of  their  crew,  and  the  shipping  of  many  seas  spoilt 
our  tents,  and,  besides,  wetted  our  salt  and  soddened  our 
grain  and  flour ; the  gunpowder  was  damaged  and  the  guns 
were  honeycombed  with  rust.  Besides  the  splashing  or  the 
paddles  ail'd  the  dashing  of  the  waves,  heavy  showers  tell  al- 
most every  day  and  night,  and  the  intervals  were  bursts  of 

burning  sunshine.”  , , . . ■ 

In  such  craft  these  travellers  attempted  to  navigate  an  in- 
land  water  which,  upon  careful  investigation  and  comparison 
of  statements  made  to  them,  they  believed  to  be  the  recipient 
and  absorbent  of  the  entire  river  system— the  whole  netwoik 
of  streams,  nullahs,  and  torrents  of  a very  considerable  por- 
tion of  Central  Africa.  The  obstinacy,  superstition,  and  bar- 
barous usages  of  the  boatmen  added  much  to  the  annoyances 
connected  with  this  water  exploration.  From  morning  till 
night,  the  paddling  was  accompanied  by  a long,  mono  onous 
howl,  which  was  responded  to  by  yells  and  shouts,  mixed  with 
the  bray  and  clang  of  horns,  sliaums,  and  tomtoms,  blown  and 
banged  without  a moment’s  cessation.  It  was  simply  impossi- 
ble in  the  midst  of  this  uproar  to  take  observations,  to  estimate 


262 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


the  rate  of  progress,  or  do  anything  in  furtherance  of  the  sci- 
entific purposes  of  the  expedition.  The  boatmen  did  what 
they  pleased ; they  would  stop  at  places  for  purposes  of  their 
own,  bu-t  never  at  the  request  of  their  employers ; and  the 
captain  had  no  command  over  them  any  more  than  the  Eng- 
lishmen. From  feelings  of  superstition  they  would  not  per- 
mit a question  to  be  asked,  nor  a lead  to  be  hove ; neither 
would  they  allow  a vessel  to  be  dipped  for  water  in  the  lake, 
or  offal  to  be  thrown  overboard,  from  their  fear  of  crocodiles. 

On  the  26th  of  April,  the  fifteenth  day  from  Ujiji,  they 
reached  the  most  northerly  station  to  which  merchants  had  yet 
been  admitted,  and  which,  according  to  the  configuration  of 
the  lake,  seems  to  be  the  termination  of  navigation  itself.  The 
place  is  called  Uvira.  When  they  came  in  sight  of  it  the 
captains  of  the  canoes  performed  a singular  dance  on  the 
benches,  pirouetting,  leaping  up  and  squatting  down  in  solemn 
silence,  while  the  crews  all  the  while  rattled  their  paddles 
against  the  sides  of  the  boat — such  being  the  usual  form  of  sal- 
utation to  the  natives  on  shore,  who,  on  their  part,  made  deaf- 
ening noises  of  many  kinds  in  token  of  welcome.  The  Sultan 
Maruta,  the  chief  of  the  neighboring  village,  invited  the 
strangers  to  his  settlement,  but  they  preferred  remaining  near 
their  canoes,  and,  pitching  their  tents  upon  the  sands,  prepared 
for  their  last  labor  of  exploring  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  so 
completing  the  work  of  their  expedition. 

They  received  a visit  from  three  stalwart  sons  of  the  Sultan, 
good  specimens  of  the  Negroid  race  to  be  seen  near  the  lake, 
with  symmetrical  heads,  regular  features,  and  pleasing  coun- 
tenances. Their  well-made  limbs  and  athletic  frames  of  a 
shining  jet  black  were  covered  by  loose  aprons  of  red  and 
dark  striped  bark-cloth,  with  many  rings  of  snowy  ivory  encir- 
cling their  arms,  together  with  conical  ornaments  of  the  tooth 
of  the  hippopotamus  suspended  from  their  necks.  They  all 
declared  that  the  mysterious  river  was  well  known  to  them, 
and  offered  to  guide  the  travellers  to  it;  but  asserted  that  the 
“ Rusisi”  enters  into  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  does  not  flow  out 
of  it,  a point  which  Stanley  and  Livingstone  have  since  con- 
firmed. The  guide  of  the  expedition  now  admitted  that  he 
had  never  before  been  beyond  the  present  place,  and  intimated 
that  he  did  not  intend  to  go.  They  were  thus  compelled  to 
abandon  their  purpose.  Similar  difficulties  prevented  all  at- 
tempt to  lay  down  the  northern  limits  of  the  lake.  The  cap- 
tains and  boatmen  refused  point-blank  to  proceed,  although 
they  had  been  paid  to  perform  the  whole  service,  and  the 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


203 


travellers  were  under  the  necessity  of  returning  to  the  point 
from  which  they  had  originally  started  on  their  fruitless  voy- 
age. “ It  is  characteristic  of  African  travel,”  observes  Bur- 
ton, “that  the  explorer  may  be  arrested  at  the  very  bourne  of 
his  journey,  on  the  very  threshold  of  success,  by  a single  stage, 
as  effectually  as  if  all  the  waves  of  the  Atlantic  or  the  sands 
of  Arabia  lay  between.” 

The  results  of  the  voyage  up  and  down  the  lake  were,  in 
these  circumstances,  unimportant.  Captain  Burton  found  that 
the  shores  were  muddy  and  the  scenery  verdant  ; and  that  the 
inhospitable  natives,  though  surrounded  in  profusion  by  all  the 
luxuries  of  their  climate,  were  sunk  in  the  lowest  forms  of 
human  debasement.  The  lake  is  1,850  feet  above  the  sea-level, 
and  estimated  to  occupy  a superficial  area  of  five  hundred 
square  miles,  its  total  length  being  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty,  and  its  average  breadth  twenty  miles.  It  has  no  affluents 
and  its  temperature  undergoes  but  little  change.  All  this, 
however,  requires  confirmation,  especially  on  account  of  the 
variety  of  the  sources  from  which  the  information  has  been 
drawn. 

Burton  and  his  “ companion  ” (as  he  calls  Speke  throughout 
his  narrative)  remained  three  and  a half  months  at  Ujiji;  and 
we  may  here  quote  Burton’s  account  of  the  land  and  its  inhabi- 
tants: 

“Ujiji  — also  called  Manyofo,  which  appears,  however, 
peculiar  to  a certain  sultanat,  or  district — is  the  name  of  a 
province,  not,  as  has  been  represented,  of  a single  town.  It 
was  first  visited  by  the  Arabs  about  1840,  ten  years  after  they 
had  penetrated  to  Unyamwezi ; they  found  it  conveniently 
situated  as  a mart  upon  the  Tanganyika  Lake,  and  a central 
point  where  their  depots  might  be  established,  and  whence 
their  factors  and  slaves  could  navigate  the  waters  and  collect 
slaves  and  ivory  from  the  tribes  upon  its  banks.  Abundant 
humidity  and  a fertile  soil,  evidenced  by  the  large  forest-trees 
and  the  profusion  of  ferns,  render  Ujiji  the  most  productive 
province  in  this  section  of  Africa : vegetables,  which  must 
elsewhere  be  cultivated,  here  seem  to  flourish  almost  sponta- 
neously. Rice  of  excellent  quality  was  formerly  raised  by  the 
Arabs  upon  the  shores  of  the  Tanganyika;  it  grew  luxuriantly, 
attaining,  it  is  said,  the  height  of  eight  or  nine  feet.  The  in- 
habitants, however,  preferring  sorghum,  and  wearied  out  by 
the  depredations  of  the  monkey,  the  elephant,  and  the  hip- 
popotamus, have  allowed  the  more  civilized  cereal  to  degen- 
erate. 


264: 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


“The  bazaar  at  Ujiji  is  well  supplied.  Fresh  fish  of  various 
kinds  is  always  procurable,  except  during  the  violence  of  the 
rains : the  people,  however,  invariably  cut  it  up  and  clean  it 
out  before  bringing  it  to  market.  Good  honey  abounds  after 
the  wet  monsoon.  J3y  the  favor  of  the  chief,  milk  and  butter 
may  be  purchased  every  day.  Long-tailed  sheep  and  well-bred 
goats,  poultry  and  eggs — the  two  latter  are  never  eaten  by  the 
people — are  brought  in  from  the  adjoining  countries  ; the  Arabs 
breed  a few  Manilla  ducks,  and  the  people  rear,  but  will  not 
sell,  pigeons. 

“The  Wajiji*  are  a burly  race  of  barbarians,  far  stronger 
than  the  tribes  hitherto  traversed,  with  dark  skins,  plain  fea- 
tures, and  straight,  sturdy  limbs ; they  are  larger  and  heavier 
men  than  the  Wanyatnwezi,  and  the  type,  as  it  approaches 
Central  Africa,  becomes  rather  negro  than  negroid.  Their 
feet  and  hands  are  large  and  liat,  their  voices  are  harsh  and 
strident,  and  their  looks  as  well  as  their  manners  are  indepen- 
dent even  to  insolence.  The  women,  who  are  held  in  high 
repute,  resemble,  and  often  excel,  their  masters  in  rudeness 
and  violence ; they  think  little  in  their  cups  of  entering  a 
stranger’s  lint,  and  of  snatching  up  and  carrying  away  au 
article  which  excites  their  admiration.  Many  of  both  sexes, 
and  all  ages,  are  disfigured  by  the  small-pox — the  Arabs  have 
vainly  taught  them  inoculation — and  there  are  few  who  are 
not  afliicteil  by  boils  and  various  eruptions. 

“ The  lakists  are  an  almost  amphibious  race,  excellent  divers, 
strong  swimmers  and  fishermen,  and  vigorous  ichthyophagists 
all.  At  times,  when  excited  by  the  morning  coolness  and  by 
the  prospect  of  a good  haul,  they  indulge  in  a manner  of  merri- 
ment which  resembles  the  gambols  of  sportive  water-fowls : 
standing  upright  and  balancing  themselves  in  their  hollow  logs, 
which  appear  but  little  larger  than  themselves,  they  strike  the 
water  furiously  with  their  paddles,  skimming  over  the  surface, 
dashing  to  and  fro,  splashing  one  another,  urging  forward, 
backing,  and  wheeling  their  craft,  now  capsizing,  then  regain- 
ing their  position  with  wonderful  dexterity.  They  make  coarse 
hooks,  and  have  many  varieties  of  nets  and  creels.  Conspic- 
uous on  the  waters  and  in  the  villages  is  the  dewa,  or  ‘otter’ 


* Captain  Rurton  throughout  his  book  uses  the  native  words  and  prefixes  in 
speaking  of  the  land  and  people.  U.  is  the  country ; Ki,  is  the  language ; 

is  the  people  collectively  ; and  Af.  is  an  individual  of  the  people.  Thus  : 
Ujiji , the  country ; Kijiji,  the  language ; Wajiji,  the  people ; and  Mjiji,  an 
individual. 


BURTON  AND  SPEKE. 


2G5 


of  Oman,  a triangle  of  stout  reeds,  which  shows  the  position  of 
the  net.  A stronger  kind,  and  used  for  the  larger  ground-fish, 
is  a cage  of  open  basket-work,  provided  like  the  former  with  a 
bait  and  two  entrances.  The  fish  once  entangled  cannot  es- 
cape, and  a log  of  wood  used  as  a trimmer,  attached  to  a float- 
rope  of  rushy  plants,  directs  the  fisherman. 

“ The  Wajiji  arc  considered  by  the  Arabs  to  be  the  most 
troublesome  race  in  these  black  regions.  The}'  are  taught  by 
the  example  of  their  chiefs  to  be  rude,  insolent,  and  extortion- 
ate ; they  demand  beads  even  for  pointing  out  the  road ; they 
will  deride  and  imitate  a stranger’s  speech  and  manner  before 
his  face;  they  can  do  nothing  without  a long  preliminary  of 
the  fiercest  scolding;  they  are  as  ready  with  a blow  as  with  a 
word ; and  they  may  ofteu  been  seen  playing  at  ‘ rough  and 
tumble,’  fighting,  pushing,  and  tearing  hair,  in  their  boats.  A 
Mjiji  uses  his  dagger  or  his  spear  upon  a guest  with  little  hesi- 
tation ; he  thinks  twice,  however,  before  drawing  blood,  if  it 
will  cause  a feud.  Their  roughness  of  manner  is  dashed  with 
a curious  ccremoniousness.  When  the  sultan  appears  among 
his  people,  he  stands  in  a circle  and  claps  his  hands,  to  which 
all  respond  in  the  same  way.  Women  curtsey  to  one  another, 
bending  the  right  knee  almost  to  the  ground.  When  two  men 
meet,  they  clasp  each  other’s  arms  with  both  hands,  rubbing 
them  up  and  down,  and  ejaculating  for  some  minutes,  ‘Naina 
sanga  ? nama  sanga?’ — Art  thou  well?  They  then  pass  the 
hands  down  to  the  forearm,  exclaiming,  ‘ Walike  ? wahke  ? ’ — - 
IIow  art  thou? — and  finally  they  clap  palms  at  each  other,  a 
token  of  respect  which  appears  common  to  these  tribes  of  Cen- 
tral Africa.  The  children  have  all  the  frowning  and  unpre- 
possessing look  of  their  parents;  they  reject  little  civilities,  and 
seem  to  spend  life  in  disputes,  biting  and  clawing  like  wild- 
cats. There  appears  to  be  little  family  affection  in  this  unde- 
monstrative race.” 

As  soon  as  a caravan  with  needful  supplies  arrived  at  the 
Lake,  Burton  set  out  on  his  return  journey,  and  reached  Kazeh 
in  twenty-six  days — from  the  26th  of  May  to  the  20th  of  June, 
1858.  lie  computes  the  distauee  at  2G5  statute  miles.  Before 
proceeding  farther  towards  the  coast  it  was  determined  by  the 
explorers  that  an  attempt  should  be  made  to  ascertain  some 
particulars  concerning  the  countries  lying  north  and  south  of 
the  route  traversed,  and  especially  in  regard  to  a great  sea,  or 
lake,  which,  according  to  the  Arab  authorities,  was  much 
larger  than  the  Tanganyika,  and  which  lay  some  fifteen  or 
sixteen  marches  to  the  north.  u I saw  at  once,”  says  Burton, 


266 


BURTON  AND  SPREE. 


“ that  the  existence  of  this  hitherto  unknown  basin  would  ex- 
plain many  discrepancies  promulgated  by  speculative  geogra- 
phers, more  especially  the  notable  and  deceptive  differences  of 
distance  caused  by  the  confusion  of  the  two  waters.”  Captain 
Burton’s  strength  had  been  so  much  reduced  by  fever  that  he 
was  not  equal  to  this  enterprise,  and  he  remained  therefore  at 
Kazeh  while  Speke  proceeded  on  the  journey.  The  latter  left 
Kazeh  on  the  10th  of  July,  reached  the  lake  (which  he  named 
the  Victoria  Nyanza)  on  the  80th  of  the  same  month,  and  re- 
turned on  the  25th  of  August.  The  discovery  was  of  vast  im- 
portance, and  Speke  always  believed  that  he  had  at  last  set 
eyes  upon  the  source  of  the  Nile ; but  particulars  concerning 
it  are  reserved  for  the  next  chapter. 

On  the  26th  of  September  the  caravan  was  once  more  en 
route  for  the  Zanzibar  coast,  where,  after  the  usual  delays, 
privations,  sickness,  squabbles  with  the  porters,  and  dickering 
with  the  local  chiefs,  they  arrived  on  the  9th  of  February, 
1859. 


CIIAPTER  XIII. 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 

Captain  Speke  was  the  second  son  of  Mr.  Speke  of  Jor- 
deens,  Somerset,  England.  lie  was  born  in  1827,  and  in  his 
seventeenth  year  entered  the  Indian  army.  Excelling  in  all 
manly  sports,  a botanist,  a geologist,  and  a natural  historian, 
ho  possessed  also  in  an  eminent  degree  all  the  qualities  of  a 
good  soldier.  lie  was  hardy,  temperate,  and  enduring,  patient 
of  fatigue,  a good  swordsman,  a good  shot,  and  a capital  horse- 
man. Under  General  Gough  he  made  the  campaign  in  the 
Punjanb,  and  had  his  share  in  the  victories  of  Ilamnugger,  Sad- 
oslapore,  Chillianwallah,  and  Guzerat,  acting  with  Sir  Colin 
Campbell.  His  good  services  on  all  occasions  secured  him 
leave  of  absence  when  the  war  was  over.  lie  used  his  oppor- 
tunities, thus  afforded,  in  exploring  expeditions  over  the  Hima- 
layas and  the  untrodden  wastes  of  Thibet. 

He  had  formed  the  idea  of  exploring  Equatorial  Africa  as 
early  as  1849.  His  only  object  at  first  was  to  complete  a mu- 
seum of  natural  history  which  he  had  formed  at  bis  father’s 
house,  principally  from  specimens  which  he  had  collected  in 
the  Himalayas  and  in  Thibet.  He  was  obliged  to  wait  for 
the  three  years’  furlough,  granted  to  Indian  officers  after  ten 
years’  service,  before  he  would  be  able  to  carry  his  plan  into  ex- 
ecution ; and  then  he  proposed  landing  on  the  east  coast  of 
Africa,  and  to  proceed  across  the  African  continent,  by  the 
Mountains  of  the  Moon,  in  some  point  of  which  chain  he  ex- 
pected to  find  the  Nile  rising  in  perpetual  snows,  as  the  Ganges 
rises  in  the  high  region  of  the  Himalayas.  On  the  very  day, 
therefore,  of  the  expiration  of  his  ten  years,  he  sailed  for  Aden. 
At  this  time  an  expedition  was  being  organized  for  the  explor- 
ation of  Somali  Land,  under  Captain  Burton.  This  country 
forms  a sort  of  elbow,  lying  between  the  equator  and  the 
eleventh  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  might  be  called  the 
eastern  horn  of  Africa.  Speke,  having  agreed  to  join  the  ex- 
pedition, left  Aden  on  the  18tli  of  October,  1854.  He  and  his 
companions,  Burton  and  Herne,  passed  over  a considerable  ex- 
tent of  country,  but  were  unable  to  accomplish  much  on  ac- 


263 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


count  of  the  savage  character  of  the  population.  Their  princi- 
pal contribution  to  the  increase  of  information  was  in  the  di- 
rection of  natural  history.  They  narrowly  escaped  with  their 
lives ; for  although  the  people,  from  the  character  of  their 
country,  are  generally  nomadic  and  pastoral,  they  are  warlike 
and  bloodthirsty.  Speke  especially,  escaped  almost  by  miracle. 
He  says,  “I  lost  in  this  unfortunate  expedition,  which  failed 
from  inexperience,  about  £510  worth  of  my  own  private  prop- 
erty, and  had  nothing  to  show  for  it  but  eleven  artificial  holes 
in  my  body,  inflicted  by  the  spears  of  the  natives.”  When  he 
arrived  at  Aden,  he  was  a miserable-looking  cripple  ; but  dur- 
ing his  residence  there  of  three  weeks,  in  which  every  attention 
was  paid  him  by  his  friends,  his  wounds  healed  so  rapidly  that 
lie  was  able  to  walk  about  before  he  left.  He  arrived  in  Eng- 
land in  June,  1855,  and  though  suffering  from  partial  blind- 
ness, as  the  Crimean  war  was  then  at  its  height  lie  could  not 
resist  the  call  to  active  service.  lie  obtained  an  appointment 
as  captain  in  a regiment  of  Turks,  with  whom  he  served  till 
the  close  of  the  war. 

As  soon  as  the  war  was  over,  finding  himself  without  occu- 
pation, Captain  Speke  was  planning  an  excursion  to  the  Cau- 
casus, when  he  was  again  invited  to  join  Captain  Burton  in  ex- 
ploring Africa.  This  decided  him  to  give  up  his  Caucasus 
scheme,  and  to  take  the  first  mail  for  England.  Arrived  in 
London,  he  was  introduced  to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
and  made  acquainted  with  the  special  objects  of  the  projected 
exploration.  On  the  walls  of  the  Society’s  room  hung  a large 
map  of  a section  of  Eastern  Africa,  about  half  of  which  was 
occupied  by  an  immense  lake,  which  it  was  to  be  the  business 
of  the  expedition  to  find.  Speke  agreed  most  willingly;  and 
in  1856,  started  with  Burton  on  the  expedition  whose  results 
are  recorded  in  the  preceding  chapter. 

As  mentioned  in  that  chapter,  Speke  was  convinced  that  in 
the  Victoria  Nyanza  he  had  discovered  the  long-sought  source 
of  the  Nile;  and  on  his  return  to  England,  in  1859,  he  immedi- 
ately laid  his  views  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  and 
proposed  to  undertake  a new  expedition,  for  the  purpose  of 
making  a complete  exploration  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza  and  of 
the  adjacent  countries.  Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  President  of 
the  Society,  warmly  espoused  his  cause,  and  the  Society  after 
hesitating  for  months  made  him  a grant  of  £2,500.  In  addi- 
tion to  this  sum,  the  Indian  Government  supplied  fifty  carbines 
with  ammunition,  all  the  surveying  instruments,  and  several 
gold  watches  as  presents  for  the  native  chiefs.  At  Speke’s 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


269 


request,  Captain  Grant,  also  of  the  Indian  army,  was  detailed 
to  accompany  him. 

Leaving  England  on  the  27th  of  April,  1860,  Speke  and 
Grant  reached  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  on  the  4tli  of  July.  Sir 
George  Grey  was  Governor  at  the  time,  and  he  induced  the 
Cape  Parliament  to  advance  to  the  expedition  the  sum  of  £300, 
for  the  purpose  of  buying  luggage-mules : ten  volunteers  from 
the  Cape  Mounted  Rifles,  moreover,  being  detached  to  ac- 
company them.  They  started  for  Zanzibar  on  the  16th  of  July  ; 
in  five  days  they  reached  East  London  ; and  proceeding  north- 
wards, made  Delagoa  Bay,  at  which  place  Captain  Speke  first 
became  acquainted  with  the  Zulu  Kaffres,  a race  of  naked 
Negroes.  Zanzibar  was  reached  on  August  17th,  and  Captain 
Speke  was  courteously  received  by  the  sultan,  who  promised  to 
further  the  plans  of  the  expedition. 

Less  time  than  might  have  been  expected  was  consumed  in 
making  the  necessary  preparations,  and  by  the  21st  of  Sep- 
tember, men,  mules,  baggage,  and  supplies  had  been  sent  across 
to  Bagamoyo  on  the  mainland.  On  October  2d  the  march  in- 
land began.  Speke’s  caravan  numbered  nearly  200  persons,  in- 
cluding the  faithful  Bombay,  who  had  served  with  Burton  in 
the  previous  expedition ; 25  Baloch  soldiers ; and  about  100 
negro  porters.  “ Starting  on  the  march  with  a large  mixed 
caravan,”  says  Speke,  “ one  could  hardly  expect  to  find  every- 
body in  his  place  at  the  proper  time  for  breaking  ground  ; but, 
at  the  same  time,  it  could  hardly  be  expected  that  ten  men,  who 
had  actually  received  their  bounty-money,  and  had  sworn  fidel- 
ity, should  give  one  the  slip  the  very  first  day.  Such,  however, 
was  the  case.  Ten  out. of  the  thirty-six  given  by  the  sultan 
ran  away,  because  they  feared  that  the  white  men,  whom  they 
believed  to  be  cannibals,  were  only  taking  them  into  the  inte- 
rior to  eat  them  ; and  one  pagazi,  more  honest  than  the  freed 
men,  deposited  liis  pay  upon,  the  ground,  and  ran  away  too. 
Go  we  must,  however,  for  one  desertion  is  sure  to  lead  to  more : 
and  go  we  did.  Our  procession  was  in  this  fashion:  the  kiran- 
gozi,  with  a load  on  his  shoulder,  led  the  way,  flag  in  hand,  fol- 
lowed by  the  pagazis  carrying  spears  or  bows  and  arrows  in 
their  hands,  and  bearing  their  share  of  the  baggage  in  the 
shape  either  of  bolster-shaped  loads  of  cloth  and  beads  covered 
with  matting,  each  tied  into  the  fork  of  a three-pronged  stick, 
or  else  coils  of  brass  or  copper  wire  tied  in  even  weights  to 
each  end  of  sticks  which  they  laid  on  the  shoulder;  then  helter- 
skelter  came  the  Wanguana,  carrying  carbines  in  their  hands, 
and  boxes,  bundles,  tents,  cooking-pots — all  the  miscellaneous 


270 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


property  on  their  heads  ; next  the  Hottentots,  dragging  the  re- 
fractory mules  laden  with  ammunition-boxes,  but  very  lightly, 
to  save  the  animals  for  the  future ; and,  finally,  Sheikh  Said 
and  the  Baloch  escort,  while  the  goats,  sick  women  and  strag- 
glers brought  up  the  rear.” 

Speke’s  own  occupation  during  the  journey  was  to  map  out 
the  country,  and  take  compass  bearings  along  the  road.  On 
arrival  in  camp  every  day,  the  altitude  of  the  station  above  the 
sea-level  was  ascertained  by  boiling  a thermometer,  and  the 
latitude  by  the  meridian  altitude  of  a star  taken  with  a sextant. 
The  rest  of  his  work,  besides  sketching  and  keeping  a diary, 
consisted  in  making  geological  and  zoological  collections.  To 
Captain  Grant  was  assigned  the  botanical  collections,  the  ther- 
mometrical  registers,  the  keeping  of  the  rain-gauge,  and  sketch- 
ing. 

•The  route  to  Zungomero  was  the  same  traversed  by  the 
previous  expedition,  and  it  was  reached  on  October  23d,  after 
the  usual  troubles  with  the  porters  and  natives.  From  this 
point  reports  of  famine  in  the  interior  determined  them  to 
cross  the  mountains  by  the  northern  or  Rubeho  Pass.  This 
being  successfully  accomplished  early  in  December,  the  cara- 
van entered  upon  the  Fiery  Field,  where  starvation  was  only 
escaped  by  Speke’s  good  luck  in  shooting  a couple  of  rhi- 
noceros. The  extortions  of  the  chiefs  began  at  Ikamburu,  and 
the}7  never  stopped  till  the  journey  was  ended.  All  sorts  of 
means  were  employed — wheedling,  cajolery,  threats,  and  prom- 
ises were  had  recourse  to,  every  league  of  the  way,  in  order  to 
obtain  from  the  Englishman  his  fire-arms,  his  knives,  his 
powder,  his  beads,  shells,  quinine,  drugs,  chemicals,  cloth,  his 
chronometer,  compass,  sextant,  or  mathematical  instruments. 
It  was  the  same  everywhere ; to  speak  of  one  instance  is  to 
tell  of  many.  In  one  case,  as  an  illustration,  we  find  that 
“ here  the  chief  took  a hongo,  i.e.,  a tax  of  ten  yards  of  meri- 
kani  (a  species  of  cloth),  five  yards  of  kiniki,  and  ten  neck- 
laces of  beads.  Grain,  meat  and  pombe  beer  were  sometimes 
given  in  return,  sometimes  promised  only,  and  not  given  till 
after  days  of  delay.”  At  the  deserted  village  of  Kirengue  three 
of  the  mule-drivers  ran  away.  One  of  the  mules  died  after 
eighteen  hours’  sickness;  and  all  the  remaining  animals  died  in 
a similar  manner.  In  the  flat  valley  of  Makata,  the  travellers 
met  Mamba,  well  known  to  all  the  caravans  as  the  Great 
Mamba,  or  Crocodile.  lie  had  been  the  last  to  leave  the 
Unyamuezi,  and.  from  this  fact,  had  purchased  all  his  stock  of 
ivory  at  a cheap  rate.  There  was  a famine  raging  throughout 


SPEKE  AND  QUANT. 


271 


the  interior,  as  is  not  unfreqncntly  the  case,  and,  with  his  party, 
at  his  own  estimate  of  two  thousand  souls  (a  number  no  doubt 
greatly  exaggerated),  he  had  come  from  IJgogo  to  Ngoto,  living 
on  the  produce  of  the  jungle  and  by  boiling  down  for  a soup 
occasionally  the  skin  aprons  of  the  porters.  The  prices  of 
provisions,  on  account  of  the  scarcity,  became  exorbitant.  At 
Minimi,  the  next  station,  they  were  as  high  as  sixteen  rations 
of  corn,  two  yards  of  cloth ; three  fowls,  two  yards  of  cloth ; 
one  goat,  twenty  yards  of  cloth ; one  cow,  forty  yards  of  cloth, 
the  cloth  being  all  the  common  American  shirting.  The  sarsa- 
parilla vino  was  hero  abundant,  but  was  uncultivated  and 
found  growing  as  a weed,  the  natives  not  being  aware  of  its 
value.  All  along  this  line,  the  natives  live  on  what  nature  pro- 
duces for  them,  looking  out  for  passing  parties  worth  plun- 
dering. At  Rubaga  ninety-eight  porters  deserted,  and  Speke 
found  that  half  of  his  property  had  been  stolen,  which  circum- 
stance was  a serious  aggravation  of  the  difficulty  occasioned  by 
the  increase  of  expenses  on  account  of  the  famine. 

At  length  on  the  24th  of  January,  1861,  after  three  months 
of  hardship,  the  travellers  entered  Kazeli,  in  the  province  of 
Unyanyembe,  and  the  first  stage  of  their  journey  was  ended. 
Speke  was  surprised  at  the  change  that  had  taken  place  in 
Unyanyembe,  and  in  fact  throughout  Unyamwezi,  since  his 
last  visit.  The  Arabs  were  no  longer  mere  merchants,  but  lived 
like  lords  of  the  soil,  and  were  then  carrying  on  a deadly  war 
with  the  native  tribes.  This,  together  with  the  famine  which 
was  felt  throughout  the  region,  had  brought  about  such  disor- 
ganization that  he  was  detained  for  months  in  Kazeli  from  the 
sheer  impossibility  of  procuring  porters  for  his  journey  north- 
ward to  the  Nyanza.  Many  pages  of  his  journal  are  taken  up 
with  accounts  of  the  futile  negotiations,  starts  which  were  no 
starts  and  ended  in  disappointment,  the  harassments  and  losses, 
which  he  and  Grant  had  to  undergo  before  (on  the  8th  of 
June)  they  crossed  the  frontier  of  Unyamwezi  and  entered 
Uzinza,  the  district  lying  next  to  it  on  the  north. 

“ Uzinza  is  ruled  by  two  Wahuma  chieftains  of  foreign 
blood,  descended  from  the  Abyssinian  stock,  of  whom  we  saw 
specimens  scattered  all  over  Unyamwezi.  Travellers  see  very 
little,  however,  of  these  Wahuma,  because,  being  pastorals,  they 
roam  about  with  their  flocks  and  build  huts  as  far  away  as 
they  can  from  cultivation.  Most  of  the  small  district  chiefs, 
too,  are  the  descendants  of  those  who  ruled  in  the  same  places 
before  the  country  was  invaded,  and  with  them  travellers  put 
up  and  have  their  dealings.  The  dress  of  the  Wahuma  is 


272 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


very  simple,  composed  chiefly  of  cowhide  tarmed  black — a few 
magic  ornaments  and  charms,  brass  or  copper  bracelets,  and 
immense  numbers  of  sambo  for  stockings,  which  looked  very 
awkward  on  their  long  legs.  They  smear  themselves  with 
rancid  better  instead  or  macassar,  and  are,  in  consequence, 
very  offensive  to  all  but  the  negro,  who  seems,  rather  than 
otherwise,  to  enjoy  a good,  sharp  nose-tickler.  For  arms,  they 
cany  both  bow  and  spear;  more  generally  the  latter.  The 
Wazinza  in  the  southern  parts  are  so  much  like  the  Wanyam- 
wezi  as  not  to  require  any  special  notice;  but  in  the. north, 
where  the  country  is  more  hilly,  they  are  much  more  energetic 
and  actively  built.  All  alike  live  in  grass-lmt  villages,  fenced 
round  by  bomas  in  the  south,  but  open  in  the  north.  Their 
country  rises  in  high  rolls,  increasing  in  altitude  as  it  ap- 
proaches the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  and  is  generally  well 
cultivated,  being  subjected  to  more  of  the  periodical  rains  than 
the  regions  we  have  left,  though  springs  are  not  so  abundant,  I 
believe,  as  they  are  in  the  Land  of  the  Moon,  where  they  ooze 
out  by  the  flanks  of  the  little  granitic  hills.” 

The  journey  across  Uzinza  was  marked  by  the  most  shame- 
less exactions  yet  experienced,  each  successive  chief  being  if 
possible  more  rapacious  and  insolent  than  his  fellows.  Once  a 
part  of  the  caravan  which  had  been  left  behind  under  Grant 
was  attacked  and  robbed,  though  most  of  the  goods  w^ere  after- 
ward returned.  And  to  cap  all,  Speke  was  so  ill  that  part  of 
the  time  he  had  to  be  carried  in  a hammock  in  a semi-delirious 
state,  and  at  several  places  was  obliged  to  halt  several  days 
from  sheer  exhaustion.  The  porters,  moreover,  took  advantage 
of  this  to  revolt,  and  were  only  induced  to  proceed  by  a liberal 
distribution  of  blackmail.  On  the  20th  of  October,  after 
crossing  a waste,  uninhabited  track,  they  entered  Usui,  the 
next  district  to  the  north;  and  after  being  levied  upon  by 
sundry  chiefs  on  the  way,  were  conducted  to  the  palace  of 
King  Suwarora,  in  the  iJthungu  valley.  Suwarora  had  pro- 
fessed a great  desire  to  see  white  men,  and  he  had  even  sent 
messengers  to  Uzinza  to  invite  them  to  visit  him;  bnt  he 
proved  to  be  a superstitious  savage,  whose  fear  of  witchcraft 
would  not  permit  him  to  look  upon  them,  and  whose  curiosity 
resolved  itself  into  the  most  extortionate  blackmail.  While 
in  Usui  Speke  received  a visit  from  a native  of  Uganda, 
the  kingdom  in  whose  territory,  according  to  the  reports  of 
travellers,  the  Kile  issued  from  the  Nyanza,  and  sent  a mes- 
senger by  him  to  Mtesa,  the  king  of  Uganda,  announcing  his 
coming. 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT . 


273 


As  soon  as  they  liad  settled  with  Snwarora  about  the  tribute — 
it  took  ten  days  to  find  him  sober  enough  to  attend  to  business 
— the  travellers  pushed  forward,  and  after  crossing  a narrow 
strip  of  uninhabited  territory,  entered  the  famous  ancl  unknown 
kingdom  of  Karagwe.  Their  treatment  in  this  land  was  very 
different  from  that  which  they  had  experienced  in  Uzinza  and 
Usui.  As  soon  as  they  had  entered  it  an  officer  met  them, 
and  informed  them  that  King  Rumanika  had  ordered  him  to 
bring  them  on  at  once  to  his  palace,  that  the  village  officers 
had  been  instructed  to  supply  them  with  food  at  the  king’s  ex- 
pense, and  that  no  taxes  are  gathered  from  strangers  in  the 
kingdom  of  Karagwe.  Nor  was  this  the  mere  exaggerated 
boasting  to  which  they  had  been  accustomed.  “The  farther 
we  went  in  this  country,”  says  Speke,  “ the  better  we  liked  it, 
a6  the  people  were  all  kept  in  good  order;  and  the  village 
chiefs  were  so  civil,  that  we  could  do  as  we  liked.”  On  the 
25th  of  November,  1801,  after  some  ten  days  of  pleasant 
inarching,  they  reached  the  palace  of  King  Rumanika,  situated 
in  lat.  1°  42'  S.  and  long.  31°  1/E., — on  the  shore  of  a beau- 
tiful lake,  in  the  bosom  of  the  hills,  to  which  Speke  gave  the 
name  of  Little  Windermere.  Almost  as  soon  as  they  had  ar- 
rived, they  were  introduced  to  Rumanika ; and,  as  his  is  the 
most  pleasing  native  figure  in  the  whole  literature  of  African 
discovery,  we  shall  quote  at  some  length  from  Speke’s  account 
of  his  visits  to  the  court. 

“Leaving  our  traps  outside  the  enclosure,”  ho  says,  “ both 
Grant  and  myself,  attended  by  Bombay  and  a few  of  the 
seniors  of  my  Wanguana,  entered  the  vestibule,  and,  walking 
through  extensive  inclosures  studded  with  huts  of  kingly  di- 
mensions, were  escorted  to  a pent-roofed  baraza,  which  the 
Arabs  had  built  as  a sort  of  government  office,  where  the  king 
might  conduct  his  state  affairs. 

“Here,  as  we  entered,  we  saw  sitting  cross-legged  on  the 
ground,  Rumanika  the  king,  and  his  brother  Nnanaji,  both  of 
them  men  of  noble  appearance  and  size.  The  king  was  plainly 
dressed  in  an  Arab’s  black  choga,  and  wore,  for  ornament, 
dress-stockings  of  rich-colored  beads,  and  neatly  worked  wrist- 
lets of  copper.  Nnanaji,  being  a doctor  of  very  high  preten- 
sions, in  addition  to  a check  cloth  wrapped  round  him,  was 
covered  with  charms.  At  their  sides  lay  huge  pipes  of  black 
clay.  In  their  rear,  squatting  quiet  as  mice,  were  all  the  king’s 
sons,  some  six  or  seven  lads,  who  wore  leather  middle-cover- 
ings, and  little  dream  charms  tied  under  their  chins.  The  first 
greetings  of  the  king,  delivered  in  good  Kisuahili,  were  warm 


274 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


and  affecting,  and  in  an  instant  we  both  felt  and  saw  we  were 
in  the  company  of  men  who  were  as  unlike  as  they  could  be  to 
the  common  order  of  the  natives  of  the  surrounding  districts. 
They  had  tine  oval  faces,  large  eyes,  and  high  noses,  denoting 
the  best  blood  of  Abyssinia.  Having  shaken  hands  in  true 
English  style,  which  is  the  peculiar  custom  of  the  men  in  this 
country,  the  ever-smiling  Rumanika  begged  us  to  be  seated  on 
the  ground  opposite  to  him,  and  at  once  wished  to  know  what 
we  thought  of  Karagwe,  for  it  had  struck  him  his  mountains 
were  the  finest  in  the  world  ; and  the  lake,  too,  did  we  not 
admire  it?  Then  laughing,  he  inquired — for  he  knew  all  the 
story — what  we  thought  of  Suwarora,  and  the  reception  we 
had  met  with  in  Usui.  When  this  was  explained  to  him,  I 
showed  him  that  it  was  for  the  interest  of  his  own  kingdom  to 
keep  a check  on  Suwarora,  whose  exorbitant  taxations  pre- 
vented the  Arabs  from  coming  to  see  him  and  bringing  things 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  He  made  inquiries  for  the  pur- 
pose of  knowing  how  we  found  our  way  all  over  the  world  ; 
for  on  the  former  expedition  a letter  had  come  to  him  for 
Musa,  who  no  sooner  read  it  than  he  said  I had  called  him 
and  he  must  leave,  as  I was  bound  for  Ujiji. 

“ This  of  course  led  to  a long  story  describing  the  world,  the 
proportions  of  land  and  water,  and  the  power  of  ships  which 
conveyed  even  elephants  and  rhinoceros — in  fact,  all  the  ani- 
mals in  the  world — to  fill  our  menageries  at  home,  etc.,  etc.,  as 
well  as  the  strange  announcement  that  we  lived  to  the  north- 
ward, and  had  only  come  this  way  because  his  friend  Musa 
had  assured  me  without  doubt  that  he  would  give  us  the  road 
on  through  Uganda.  Time  flew  like  magic,  the  king’s  mind 
was  so  quick  and  inquiring;  but  as  the  day  was  wasting  away, 
he  generously  gave  us  our  option  to  choose  a place  for  our 
residence  in  or  out  of  his  palace,  and  allowed  us  time  to  select 
one.  We  found  the  view  overlooking  the  lake  to  be  so  charm- 
ing, that  we  preferred  camping  outside,  and  set  our  men  at 
once  to  work  cutting  sticks  and  long  grass  to  erect  themselves 
sheds. 

“ One  of  the  young  princes — for  the  king  had  ordered  them 
all  to  be  constantly  in  attendance  on  us — happening  to  see  me 
sit  on  an  iron  chair,  rushed  back  to  his  father  and  told  him 
about  it.  This  set  all  the  royals  in  the  palace  in  a state  of 
high  wonder,  and  ended  by  my  getting  a summons  to  show  off 
the  white  man  sitting  on  his  throne;  for  of  course  I could  only 
be,  as  all  of  them  called  me,  a king  of  great  dignity,  to  in- 
dulge in  such  state.  Rather  reluctantly  1 did  as  I was  bid, 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


275 


and  allowed  myself  once  more  to  be  dragged  into  court.  Ru- 
inanika,  as  gentle  as  ever,  then  burst  into  a fresh  fit  of  merri- 
ment, and  after  making  sundry  enlightened  remarks  of  in- 
quiry, which  of  course  were  responded  to  with  the  greatest  sat- 
isfaction, finished  off  by  saying,  with  a very  expressive  shake  of 
the  head,  ‘Oh  these  Wazungu,  these  Wazungu!  they  know 
and  do  everything.’ 

“ I then  put  in  a word  for  myself.  Since  we  had  entered 
Karagwc  we  never  could  get  one  drop  of  milk  either  for  love 
or  for  money,  and  I wished  to  know  what  motive  the  Wahnma 
had  for  withholding  it.  We  had  heard  they  held  superstitious 
dreads,  that  any  one  who  ate  the  flesh  of  pigs,  fish,  or  fowls,  or 
the  bean  called  mahai'agwe,  if  he  tasted  the  products  of  their 
cows,  would  destroy  their  cattle,  and  I hoped  he  did  not  labor 
under  any  such  absurd  delusions.  To  which  he  replied,  it  was 
only  the  poor  who  thought  so  ; and  as  he  now  saw  that  we 
were  in  want,  he  would  set  apart  one  of  his  cows  expressly  for 
our  use.  On  bidding  adieu,  the  usual  formalities  of  hand- 
shaking were  gone  through  ; and  on  entering  camp,  I found 
the  good,  thoughtful  king  had  sent  us  some  more  of  his  excel- 
lent beer.” 

On  the  26th  of  November,  Speke  made  another  visit  to 
Rumanika,  with  whom  he  had  a theological  and  historical  dis- 
cussion, which  so  pleased  the  king  that  he  said  he  would  be 
delighted  if  Speke  would  take  two  of  his  sons  to  England, 
“ that  they  might  bring  him  a knowledge  of  everything.”  The 
same  afternoon  he  called  on  the  king’s  eldest  brother,  and  veri- 
fied what  had  already  been  told  him,  viz.,  that  the  wives  of  the 
king  and  princes  were  fattened  to  such  an  extent  that  they 
could  not  stand  up.  The  chief  wife  could  not  rise  when  he 
was  introduced  to  her;  and  so  large  were  her  arms  that  be- 
tween the  joints  the  flesh  hung  down  like  large,  loosely  stuffed 
puddings. 

Next  day  Bombay  was  sent  to  the  palace  with  the  presents 
for  the  king,  consisting  of  one  block-tin  box,  one  Raglan  coat, 
five  yards  of  scarlet  broadcloth,  two  coils  of  copper  wire,  a 
hundred  large  blue  egg-beads,  five  bundles  of  best  variegated 
beads,  and  three  bundles  of  small  beads — pink,  blue,  and  white. 
This  was  less  than  had  been  exacted  at  times  by  the  smallest 
local  chiefs ; but  Rumanika  was  so  delighted  that  he  promised 
to  do  all  he  could  to  assist  the  travellers  in  getting  northward, 
and  even  volunteered  to  send  a messenger  at  once  to  the  king 
of  Uganda,  to  inform  him  of  their  intention  to  visit  him,  with 
his  own  favorable  report  of  them.  lie  was  as  good  as  his  word, 


276 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


and  while  the  messenger  was  away  they  were  entertained,  near 
the  palace,  making  and  receiving  frequent  visits. 

On  the  14th  of  .December,  Speke  visited  one  of  the  sisters-in- 
law  of  the  king,  who,  according  to  the  native  idea,  was  a per- 
fect beauty.  “ She  was  another  of  those  wonders  of  obesity, 
unable  to  stand  excepting  on  all  fours.  I was  desirous  to  ob- 
tain a good  view  of  her,  and  actually  to  measure  her,  and  in- 
duced her  to  give  me  facilities  for  doing  so  by  offering  in  return 
to  show  her  a bit  of  my  naked  legs  and  arms.  The  bait  took 
as  I wished  it,  and  after  getting  her  to  sidle  and  wriggle  into 
the  middle  of  the  hut,  I did  as  I promised,  and  then  took  her 
dimensions,  as  noted  below.*  All  of  these  are  exact  except  the 
height,  and  I believe  I could  have  obtained  this  more  accur- 
ately if  I could  have  had  her  laid  on  the  floor.  Not  knowing 
what  difficulties  I should  have  to  contend  with  in  such  a piece 
of  engineering,  1 tried  to  get  her  height  by  raising  her  up. 
This,  after  infinite  exertions  on  the  part  of  us  both,  w^as  accom- 
plished, when  she  sank  down  again,  fainting,  for  her  blood  had 
rushed  into  her  head.  Meanwhile,  the  daughter,  a lass  of  six- 
teen, sat  stark  naked  before  us,  sucking  at  a milk-pot,  on  which 
the  father  kept  her  at  work  by  holding  a rod  in  his  hand  ; for, 
as  fattening  is  the  first  duty  of  fashionable  female  life,  it  must 
be  duly  enforced  by  the  rod  if  necessary.  I got  up  a bit  of  a 
flirtation  with  missy,  and  induced  her  to  rise  and  shake  hands 
with  me.  Her  features  were  lovely,  but  her  body  was  as  round 
as  a ball.” 

On  the  25th  of  December,  Rninanika,  hearing  that  it  was  the 
custom  of  white  men  to  celebrate  the  birth  of  the  Saviour  with 
a good  feast  of  beef,  sent  them  an  ox.  “ I immediately  paid 
him  a visit,”  says  Speke,  “to  offer  the  compliments  of  the  season, 
and  at  the  same  time  regretted,  much  to  his  amusement,  that 
he,  as  one  of  the  old  stock  of  Abyssinians,  who  are  the  oldest 
Christians  on  record,  should  have  forgotten  this  rite;  but  I 
hoped  the  time  would  come  when,  by  making  it  known  that 
his  tribe  had  lapsed  into  a state  of  heathenism,  white  teachers 
would  be  induced  to  set  it  all  to  rights  again.” 

Finally,  on  the  10th  of  January,  1862,  the  messenger  whom 
Rumanika  had  sent  to  the  king  of  Uganda  returned,  and  with 
him  came  a royal  officer,  with  a large  escort  of  smartly-dressed 
men,  women,  and  boys,  sent  by  the  king  to  conduct  the  white 


* Round  the  arm,  1 foot  11  inches  ; chest,  4 feet  4 inches ; thigh,  2 feet' 7 
inches ; calf,  1 foot  8 inches ; height,  5 feet  8 inches. 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


277 


men  to  his  capital.  Grant  was  laid  np  with  a sore  leg,  and 
unable  to  move  ; but  the  present  was  too  good  an  opportunity  to 
be  lost,  and  Speke  resolved  to  push  on  with  the  main  body  of 
the  caravan,  while  Grant  remained  behind  with  several  at- 
tendants in  Rurnanika’s  care. 

Setting  out  on  January  11th,  in  three  days  the  caravan 
reached  and  crossed  the  Kitangule  River,  which  flows  into  the 
Victoria  Nyanza  from  the  west.  They  were  now  in  Uganda 
territory,  and  were  treated  everywhere  as  the  king’s  guests, 
though  the  indolence  of  the  conductor  delayed  them  greatly  in 
the  earlier  marches.  On  the  28th,  cresting  a small  hill,  Speke 
caught  sight  of  the  lake  for  the  first  time.  “ Next  day,  after 
crossing  more  of  those  abominable  rush-drains,  while  in  sight 
of  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  we  ascended  the  most  beautiful  hills 
covered  with  verdure  of  all  descriptions.  At  Meruka,  where 
I put  up,  there  resided  some  grandees,  the  chief  of  whom  was 
the  king’s  aunt.  She  sent  me  a goat,  a hen,  a basket  of  eggs, 
and  some  plantains,  in  return  for  which  I sent  her  a wire  and 
some  beads.  I felt  inclined  to  stop  here  a month,  everything 
was  so  very  pleasant.  The  temperature  wras  perfect.  The 
roads,  as  indeed  they  were  everywhere,  were  as  broad  as  our 
coach-roads,  cut  through  the  long  grasses,  straight  over  the 
hills  and  down  through  the  woods  in  the  dells — a strange  con- 
trast to  the  wretched  tracks  in  all  the  adjacent  countries.  The 
huts  were  kept  so  clean  and  so  neat,  not  a fault  could  be  found 
with  them — the  gardens  the  same.  Wherever  I strolled  I saw 
nothing  but  richness,  and  what  ought  to  be  wealth.  The  whole 
land  was  a picture  of  quiescent  beauty,  with  a boundless  sea  in 
the  back-ground.  Looking  over  the  lulls,  it  struck  the  fancy 
at  once  that  at  one  period  the  whole  land  must  have  been  at  a 
uniform  level  with  their  present  tops,  but  that,  by  the  constant 
denudation  it  was  subjected  to  by  frequent  rains,  it  had  been 
cut  down  and  sloped  into  those  beautiful  hills  and  dales  which 
now  so  much  pleased  the  eye ; for  there  were  none  of  those 
quartz  dikes  I had  seen  protruding  through  the  same  kind  of 
aqueous  formations  in  Usui  and  Karagwe,  nor  were  there  any 
other  sorts  of  volcanic  disturbance  to  distort  the  calm,  quiet 
aspect  of  the  scene.” 

Still  moving  forward  by  slow  and  easy  marches,  they  found 
themselves  approaching  the  palace  of  King  Mtesa.  The  7th 
of  February  is  notable  as  the  date  on  which  they  crossed  the 
equator;  and  about  noon  on  the  18th  some  pages  met  the  cara- 
van to  say  they  were  to  come  along  without  a moment’s  delay, 
as  the  king  had  ordered.  The  king,  they  added,  had  vowed  that 


278 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


lie  would  not  taste  food  till  he  saw  Speke,  so  that  everybody 
might  know  what  great  respect  lie  felt  for  the  white  man. 

“One  march  more,”  says  Speke,  “and  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  king’s  kibuga,  or  palace,  in  the  province  of  Bandawarogo, 
N.  lat.  0°  21'  19",  and  E.  long.  32°  44'  30".  It  was  a mag- 
nificent sight.  A whole  hill  was  covered  with  gigantic  lints, 
such  as  I had  never  seen  in  Africa  before.  I wished  to  go  up 
to  the  palace  at  once,  but  the  officers  said  ‘No,  that  would  be 
considered  indecent  in  Uganda  ; you  must  draw  up  your  men 
and  fire  your  guns  off,  to  let  the  king  know  you  are  here ; 
we  will  then  show  you  your  residence,  and  to-morrow  you 
will  doubtless  be  sent  for,  as  the  king  could  not  now  hold  a 
levee  while  it  is  raining.’  I made  the  men  fire,  and  then  was 
shown  into  a lot  of  dirty  huts,  which,  they  said,  were  built 
expressly  for  the  king’s  visitors.  The  Arabs,  when  they  came 
on  their  visits,  always  put  up  here,  and  I must  do  the  same. 
At  first  I stuck  out  on  my  claims  a3  a foreign  prince,  whose 
royal  blood  could  not  stand  such  an  indignity.  The  palace 
was  my  sphere,  and  unless  I could  get  a hut  there,  I would 
return  without  seeing  the  king. 

“In  a terrible  fright  at  my  blustering,  Nyamgundu  fell  at 
mv  feet  and  implored  me  not  to  be  hasty.  I gave  way  to  this 
good  man’s  appeal,  and  cleaned  my  lint  by  firing  the  ground, 
for,  like  all  the  huts  in  this  dog  country,  it  was  full  of  fleas. 
Once  ensconced  there,  the  king’s  pages  darted  in  to  see  me, 
bearing  a message  from  their  master,  who  said  he  was  sorry 
the  rain  prevented  him  from  holding  a levee  that  day,  but  the 
next  he  would  be  delighted  to  see  me. 

“ On  the  19th  the  king  sent  his  pages  to  announce  his  inten- 
tion of  holding  a levee  in  my  honor.  I prepared  for  my  first 
presentation  at  court,  attired  in  my  best,  though  in  it  I cut  a 
poor  figure  in  comparison  with  the  display  of  the  dressy  Wa- 
ganda.  They  wore  neat  bark  cloaks  resembling  the  best  yel- 
low corduroy  cloth,  crimp  and  well  set,  as  if  stiffened  with 
starch,  and  over  that,  as  upper  cloaks,  a patchwork  of  small 
antelope  skins,  which  I observed  were  sewn  together  as  well 
as  any  English  glovers  could  have  pieced  them;  while  their 
head-dresses,  generally,  were  abrus  turbans,  set  off  with  highly 
polished  boar-tusks,  stick-charms,  seeds,  beads,  or  shells,  and 
on  their  necks,  arms,  and  ankles  they  wore  other  charms  of 
wood,  or  small  horns  stuffed  with  magic  powder,  and  fastened 
on  by  strings  generally  covered  with  snake-skin.  Nyamgundu 
and  Mania  demanded,  as  their  official  privilege,  a first  peep; 
and  this  being  refused,  they  tried  to  persuade  me  that  the 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


279 


articles  comprising  the  present  required  to  be  covered  with 
chintz,  for  it  was  considered  indecorous  to  offer  anything  to 
his  majesty  in  a naked  state.  This  little  interruption  over, 
the  articles  enumerated  below  * were  conveyed  to  the  palace 
in  solemn  procession  thus:  with  Nyamgundu,  Mania,  the 
pages,  and  myself  on  the  flanks,  the  Union  Jack,  carried  by 
t.hi  kirangozi  guide,  led  the  way,  followed  by  twelve  men  as 
a guard  of  honor,  dressed  in  red  flannel  cloaks,  and  carrying 
their  arms  sloped,  with  fixed  bayonets;  while  in  their  rear  were 
the  rest  of  my  men,  each  carrying  some  article  as  a present. 

u On  the  march  toward  the  palace,  the  admiring  courtiers, 
wonder-struck  at  such  an  unusual  display,  exclaimed,  in  rap- 
tures of  astonishment,  some  with  both  hands  at  their  mouths, 
and  others  clasping  their  heads  with  their  hands,  ‘ Irungi ! 
irungi!’  which  may  be  translated  ‘Beautiful!  beautiful!’ 
The  palace,  or  entrance,  quite  surprised  me  by  its  extraordinary 
dimensions,  and  the  neatness  with  which  it  was  kept.  The 
whole  brow  and  sides  of  the  hill  on  which  we  stood  wTere 
covered  with  gigantic  grass  huts,  thatched  as  neatly  as  so 
many  heads  dressed  by  a London  barber,  and  fenced  all  round 
with  the  tall  yellow  reeds  of  the  common  Uganda  tiger-grass; 
while  within  the  enclosure  the  lines  of  huts  were  joined  to- 
gether, or  partitioned  off  into  courts,  with  walls  of  the  same 
grass.  It  is  here  most  of  Mtesa’s  three  or  four  hundred 
women  are  kept,  the  rest  being  quartered  chiefly  with  his 
mother,  known  by  the  title  of  Nyamasore,  or  queen-dowager. 
They  stood  in  little  groups  at  the  doors,  looking  at  us,  and  evi- 
dently passing  their  own  remarks,  and  enjoying  their  own 
jokes,  on  the  triumphal  procession.  At  each  gate  as  we 
passed,  officers  on  duty  opened  and  shut  it  for  us,  jingling  the 
big  bells  which  are  hung  upon  them,  as  they  sometimes  are 
at  shop-doors,  to  prevent  silent,  stealthy  entrance. 

“ The  first  court  passed,  I was  even  more  surprised  to  find 
the  unusual  ceremonies  that  awaited  me.  There  courtiers  of 
high  dignity  stepped  forward  to  greet  me,  dressed  in  the  most 
scrupulously  neat  fashions.  Men,  women,  bulls,  dogs,  and 
goats  were  led  about  by  strings;  cocks  and  hens  were  carried 
in  men’s  arms  ; and  little  pages,  with  rope  turbans,  rushed 
about,  conveying  messages,  as  if  their  lives  depended  on  their 


* 1 block-tin  box,  4 rich  silk  cloths,  1 rifle  (Whitworth’s),  1 gold  chronom- 
eter, 1 revolver-pistol,  3 rifled-carbines,  3 sword-bayonets,  1 box  ammunition, 
1 box  bullets,  1 box  gun-caps,  1 telescope,  1 iron  chair,  10  bundles  best  beads, 
1 set  of  table-knives,  spoons,  and  forks. 


280 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


swiftness,  every  one  holding  liis  skin  cloak  tightly  round  him, 
lest  his  naked  legs  might  by  accident  be  shown. 

“ This,  then,  was  the  ante-reception  court ; and  I might 
have  taken  possession  of  the  lmt,  in  which  musicians  were 
playing  and  singing  on  large  nine-stringed  harps,  like  the  Nu- 
bian tambira,  accompanied  by  harmonicons.  By  the  chief 
officers  in  waiting,  however,  who  thought  fit  to  treat  us  like 
Arab  merchants,  I was  requested  to  sit  on  the  ground  outside 
in  the  sun  with  my  servants.  Now  I had  made  up  my  mind 
never  to  sit  upon  the  ground  as  the  natives  and  Arabs  are 
obliged  to  do,  nor  to  make  my  obeisance  in  any  other  manner 
than  is  customary  in  England,  though  the  Arabs  had  told  me 
that  from  fear  they  had  always  complied  with  the  manners  of 
the  court.  I felt  that  if  I did  not  stand  up  for  my  social 
position  at  once,  I should  be  treated  with  contempt  during  the 
remainder  of  my  visit,  and  thus  lose  the  vantage-ground  I 
had  assumed  of  appearing  rather  as  a prince  than  a trader, 
for  the  purpose  of  better  gaining  the  confidence  of  the  king. 
To  avert  over-hastiness,  however — for  my  servants  began  to  be 
alarmed  as  I demurred  against  doing  as  I was  bid — I allowed 
five  minutes  to  the  court  to  give  me  a proper  reception,  say- 
ing if  it  were  not  conceded  I would  then  walk  away. 

“ Nothing,  however,  was  done.  My  own  men,  knowing  me, 
feared  for  me,  as  they  did  not  know  what  a ‘ savage  ’ king 
would  do  in  case  I carried  out  my  threat;  while  the  Waganda, 
lost  in  amazement  at  what  seemed  little  less  than  blasphemy, 
stood  still  as  posts.  The  affair  ended  by  my  walking  straight 
away  home,  giving  Bombay  orders  to  leave  the  present  on  the 
ground,  and  to  follow  me. 

“ Although  the  king  is  said  to  be  unapproachable  excepting 
when  he  chooses  to  attend  court — a ceremony  which  rarely 
happens — intelligence  of  my  hot  wrath  and  hasty  departure 
reached  him  in  an  instant.  lie  first,  it  seems,  thought  of  leav- 
ing his  toilet-room  to  follow  me  ; but,  finding  I was  walking 
fast  and  had  gone  far,  changed  his  mind,  and  sent  wakungu 
running  after  me.  Poor  creatures!  they  caught  me  up,  fell 
upon  their  knees,  and  implored  I would  return  at  once,  for 
the  king  had  not  tasted  food,  and  would  not  until  he  saw  me. 
I felt  grieved  at  their  touching  appeals ; but,  as  I did  not 
understand  all  they  said,  I simply  replied  by  patting  my 
heart  and  shaking  my  head,  walkiug,  if  anything,  all  the 
faster. 

“ On  my  arrival  at  my  hut,  Bombay  and  others  came  in, 
wet  through  with  prespiration,  saying  the  king  had  heard  of 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


281 


my  grievances.  If  I desired  it,  I might  bring  my  own  chair 
with  me,  for  lie  wa3  very  anxious  to  show  me  great  respect, 
although  such  a seat  was  exclusively  the  attribute  of  the  king, 
no  one  else  in  Uganda  daring  to  sit  on  an  artificial  seat. 

“ My  point  was  gained,  so  I cooled  myself  with  coffee  and 
a pipe,  and  returned  rejoicing  in  my  victory.  After  returning 
to  the  second  tier  of  huts  from  which  I had  retired,  everybody 
appeared  to  be  in  a hurried,  confused  state  of  excitement,  not 
knowing  what  to  make  out  of  so  unprecedented  an  exhibition 
of  temper.  In  the  most  polite  manner,  the  officers  in  waiting 
begged  me  to  be  seated  on  my  iron  stool,  which  I had  brought 
with  me,  white  others  hurried  in  to  announce  my  arrival.  But 
for  a few  minutes  only  I was  kept  in  suspense,  when  a band  of 
music,  the  musicians  wearing  on  their  backs  long-haired  goat- 
skins, passed  me,  dancing  as  they  went  along  like  bears  in  a fair, 
and  playing  on  reed  instruments  worked  over  with  pretty  beads 
in  various  patterns,  from  which  depended  leopard-cat  skins,  the 
time  being  regulated  by  the  beating  of  long  hand-drums. 

“ The  mighty  king  was  now  reported  to  be  sitting  on  his 
throne  in  the  state  hut  of  the  third  tier.  I advanced,  hat  in 
hand,  with  my  guard  of  honor  following,  formed  in  ‘ open 
ranks,’  who  in  their  turn  were  followed  by  the  bearers  carry- 
ing the  present.  I did  not  walk  straight  up  to  him  as  if  to 
shako  hands,  but  went  outside  the  ranks  of  the  three-sided 
square  of  squatting  wakungn,  all  habited  in  skins,  mostly  cow- 
skins  ; some  few  of  whom  had,  in  addition,  leopard-cat  skins 
girt  round  the  waist,  the  sign  of  royal  blood.  Here  I was 
desired  to  halt  and  sit  in  the  glaring  sun  : so  I donned  my 
hat,  mounted  my  umbrella,  a phenomenon  which  set  them  all  a 
wondering  and  laughing,  ordered  the  guard  to  close  ranks, 
and  sat  gazing  at  the  novel  spectacle.  A more  theatrical 
sight  I never  saw.  The  king,  a good-looking,  well-figured, 
tall  young  man  of  twenty-five,  was  sitting  on  a red  blanket 
spread  upon  a square  platform  of  royal  grass,  incased  in  tiger- 
grass  reeds,  scrupulously  well  dressed  in  a new  mbngu.  The 
hair  of  his  head  was  cut  short,  excepting  on  the  top,  where 
it  was  combed  up  into  a high  ridge,  running  from  stem  to 
stern  like  a cock’s  comb.  On  his  neck  wTas  a very  neat  orna- 
ment— a large  ring,  of  beautifully  worked  small  beads,  form- 
ing elegant  patterns  by  their  various  colors.  On  one  arm  was 
another  bead  ornament,  prettily  devised  ; and  on  the  other  a 
wooden  charm,  tied  by  a string  covered  with  snake-skin.  On 
every  finger  and  every  toe  he  had  alternate  brass  and  copper 


282 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


rings ; and  above  the  ankles,  half  way  up  to  the  calf,  a stock- 
ing of  very  pretty  beads.  Everything  was  light,  neat,  and 
elegant  in  its  way ; not  a fault  could  be  found  with  the  taste 
of  his  1 getting  up.’  For  a handkerchief  he  held  a well- 
foldcd  piece  of  bark,  and  a piece  of  gold-embroidered  silk, 
which  he  constantly  employed  to  hide  his  large  mouth  when 
laughing,  or  to  wipe  it  after  a drink  of  plantain  wine,  of  which 
he  took  constant  and  copious  draughts  from  neat  little  gourd- 
cups,  administered  by  his  ladies-in-waiting,  who  were  at  once 
his  sisters  and  wives.  A white  dog,  spear,  shield,  and  woman 
— the  Uganda  cognizance — were  by  his  side,  as  also  a knot  of 
staff  officers,  with  whom  he  kept  up  a brisk  conversation  on 
one  side  ; and  on  the  other  was  a band  of  wichwezi,  or  lady- 
sorcerers,  such  as  I have  already  described. 

“ I was  now  asked  to  draw  nearer  within  the  hollow  square 
of  squatters,  where  leopard-skins  were  strewed  upon  the 
ground,  and  a large  copper  kettle-drum,  surmounted  with  brass 
bells  on  arching  wires,  along  with  two  other  smaller  drums 
covered  with  cowrie-shells,  .and  beads  of  color  worked  into  pat- 
terns, were  placed.  I now  longed  to  open  conversation,  but 
knew  not  the  language,  and  no  one  near  me  dared  speak,  or 
even  lift  his  head  from  fear  of  being  accused  of  eyeing  the 
women  ; so  the  king  and  myself  sat  staring  at  one  another  for 
full  an  hour — I mute,  but  lie  pointing  and  remarking  with 
those  around  him  on  the  novelty  of  my  guard  and  general  ap- 
pearance, and  even  requiring  to  see  my  hat  lifted,  the  umbrella 
shut  and  opened,  and  the  guards  face  about  and  show  off 
their  red  cloaks — for  such  wonders  had  never  been  seen  in 
Uganda. 

“ Then,  finding  the  day  waning,  he  sent  Mania  on  an  em- 
bassy to  ask  me  if  I had  seen  him;  and  on  receiving  my  reply, 
‘ Yes,  for  full  one  hour,’  I was  glad  to  find  him  rise,  spear  in 
hand,  lead  his  dog,  and  walk  unceremoniously  away  through 
the  inclosure  into  the  fourth  tier  of  huts  ; for  this  being  a 
pure  levee  day,  no  business  was  transacted.  The  king’s  gait  in 
retiring  was  intended  to  be  very  majestic,  but  did  not  succeed 
in  conveying  to  me  that  impression.  It  was  the  traditional 
walk  of  his  race,  founded  on  the  step  of  the  lion ; but  the  out- 
ward sweep  of  the  legs,  intended  to  represent  the  stride  of  the 
noble  breast,  appeared  to  me  only  to  realize  a very  ludicrous 
kind  of  waddle,  which  made  me  ask  Bombay  if  anything  seri- 
ous was  the  matter  with  the  royal  person. 

“ I had  now  to  wait  for  some  time,  almost  as  an  act  of  hu- 
manity ; for  I was  told  the  state  secret,  that  the  king  had  re- 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


283 


tired  to  break  his  fast  and  cat  for  the  first  time  since  hearing 
of  my  arrival ; but  the  repast  waa  no  sooner  over  than  he  pre- 
pared for  the  second  act,  to  show  off  hia  splendor,  and  I waa 
invited  in,  with  all  my  men,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  his  own  of- 
ficers, save  my  two  guides.  Entering  as  before,  I found  him 
standing  on  a red  blanket,  leaning  against  the  right  portal  of 
the  hut,  talking  and  laughing,  handkerchief  in  hand,  to  a hun- 
dred or  more  of  hia  admiring  wives,  who,  all  squatting  on  the 
ground  outside,  in  two  groups,  were  dressed  in  new  mbugus. 
My  men  dared  not  advance  upright,  nor  look  upon  the  women, 
but,  stooping,  with  lowered  heads  and  averted  eyes,  came 
cringing  after  me.  Unconscious  myself,  I gave  loud  and  im- 
patient orders  to  my  guard,  rebuking  them  for  moving  like 
frightened  geese,  and,  with  hat  in  hand,  stood  gazing  on  the 
fair  sex  till  directed  to  sit  and  cap. 

“Mtesa  then  inquired  what  messages  were  brought  from 
Kumanika;  to  which  Mania,  delighted  with  the  favor  of 
speaking  to  royalty,  replied  by  saying  Rumanika  had  gained 
intelligence  of  Englishmen  coming  up  the  Nile  to  Gani  and 
Kidi.  The  king  acknowledged  the  truthfulness  of  their  story, 
saying  he  had  heard  the  same  himself ; and  both  wakungu,  as 
is  the  custom  in  Uganda,  thanked  their  lord  in  a very  enthusi- 
astic manner,  kneeling  on  the  ground — for  no  one  can  stand  in 
the  presence  of  his  majesty — in  an  attitude  of  prayer,  and 
throwing  out  their  hands  as  they  repeated  the  words,  nyanzig, 
nyanzig,  ai  nyanzig  mkahma  wangi,  etc.,  etc.,  for  a considera- 
ble time-;  when,  thinking  they  had  done  enough  of  this,  and 
heated  with  exertion,  they  threw  themselves  flat  upon  their 
stomachs,  and,  floundering  about  like  flsli  on  land,  repeated 
the  same  words  over  again  and  again,  and  rose  doing  the  same, 
with  their  faces  covered  with  earth ; for  majesty  in  Uganda  is 
never  satisfied  till  subjects  have  grovelled  before  it  like  the 
most  abject  worms.  This  conversation  over,  after  gazing  at 
me,  and  chatting  with  his  women  for  a considerable  time,  the 
second  scene  ended.  The  third  scene  was  more  easily  ar- 
ranged, for  the  day  was  fast  declining,  lie  simply  moved 
with  his  train  of  women  to  another  hut,  where,  after  seating 
himself  upon  his  throne,  with  his  women  around  him,  he  in- 
vited me  to  approach  the  nearest  limits  of  propriety,  and  to  sit 
as  before.  Again  he  asked  me  if  I had  seen  him,  evidently 
desirous  of  indulging  in  his  regal  pride ; so  I made  the  most 
of  the  opportunity  thus  afforded  me  of  opening  a conversation 
by  telling  him  of  those  grand  reports  I had  formerly  heard 
about  him,  which  induced  me  to  come  all  this  way  to  see  him, 


284 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


and  the  trouble  it  had  cost  me  to  reach  the  object  of  my  de- 
sire; at  the  same  time  taking  a gold  ring  from  off  my  finger, 
and  presenting  it  to  him,  1 said, ‘This  is  a small  token  of 
friendship;  if:  you  will  inspect  it,  it  is  made  after  the  fashion 
of  a dog-collar,  and,  being  the  king  of  metals,  gold,  is  in  every 
respect  appropriate  to  your  illustrious  race.5 

“lie  said,  in  return,  ‘If  friendship  is  your  desire,  what 
would  you  say  if  I showed  you  a road  by  which  you  might 
reach  your  home  in  one  month?5  Now  everything  had  to  be 
told  to  Bombay,  then  to  Nasib,  my  Kiganda  interpreter,  and 
then  to  either  Mania  or  Nyamgunda,  before  it  was  delivered  to 
the  king,  for  it  was  considered  indecorous  to  transmit  any  mes- 
sage to  his  majesty  excepting  through  the  medium  of  one  of 
his  officers.  Hence  I could  not  get  an  answer  put  in  ; for  as 
all  Waganda  are  rapid  and  impetuous  in  their  conversation, 
the  king,  probably  forgetting  he  had  put  a question,  hastily 
changed  the  conversation  and  said,  ‘ What  guns  have  you  got? 
Let  me  see  the  one  you  shoot  with.5  I wished  still  to  answer 
the  first  question  first,  as  I knew  he  referred  to  the  direct  line 
to  Zanzibar  across  the  Masai,  and  was  anxious,  without  delay, 
to  open  the  subject  of  Petherick  and  Grant ; but  no  one  dared 
to  deliver  my  statement.  Much  disappointed,  I then  said,  ‘ I 
had  brought  the  best  shooting-gun  in  the  world — Whitworth’s 
rifle — which  I begged  he  would  accept,  with  a few  other 
trifles ; and,  with  his  permission,  I would  lay  them  upon  a car- 
pet at  his  feet,  as  is  the  custom  of  my  country  when  visiting 
sultans.5  He  assented,  sent  all  his  women  away,  and  had  a 
nibugn  spread  for  the  purpose,  on  which  Bombay,  obeying  my 
order,  first  spread  a red  blanket,  and  then  opened  each  article, 
one  after  the  other,  when  Nasib,  according  to  the  usage  already 
mentioned,  smoothed  them  down  with  his  dirty  hands,  or  rub- 
bed them  against  his  sooty  face,  and  handed  them  to  the  king 
to  show  there  was  no  poison  or  witchcraft  in  them.  Mtesa  ap- 
peared quite  confused  with  the  various  wonders  as  he  handled 
them,  made  silly  remarks,  and  pondered  over  them  like  a per- 
fect child,  until  it  was  quite  dark.  Torches  were  then  lit,  and 
guns,  pistols,  powder,  boxes,  tools,  beads, — the  whole  collection, 
in  short, — were  tossed  together  topsy-turvy,  bungled  into  inbu- 
gus,  and  carried  away  by  the  pages.  Mtesa  now  said,  ‘It  is 
kite,  and  time  to  break  up;  what  provisions  would  yon  wish  to 
have?5  I said,  ‘A  little  of  everything,  but  no  one  thing  con- 
stantly.5 ‘ And  would  you  like  to  see  me  to-morrow?5  ‘Yes, 
every  day.5  ‘Then  you  can’t  to-morrow,  for  I have  business; 
but  the  next  day  come  if  you  like.  You  can  now  go  away, 


GRANT  ON  HIS  WAY  i-’ROM  KAltAOWE. 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT.  285 

and  here  arc  six  pots  of  plantain  wine  for  you ; my  men  will 
search  for  food  to-morrow.’” 

Notwithstanding  this  apparently  favorable  reception,  Speke 
was  detained  upwards  of  four  months  in  Uganda,  making  vain 
efforts  all  the  time  to  get  away  either  northward  to  the  Nile, 
or  eastward  to  the  coast.  At  least  one  fourth  of  his  book  is 
taken  up  in  describing  tbe  incidents  of  this  prolonged  stay, 
and  the  various  hindrances  to  which  Mtcsa  subjected  his  impa- 
tient guests.  He  w heedled,  and  begged,  and  extorted  all  sorts 
of  things  from  them  as  Kongo  / and  promised  all  they  required 
in  return — promises  which  he  never  performed.  The  cruelty 
of  this  savage  was  equal  to  his  rapacity  and  greed.  lie  exe- 
cuted his  wives  and  sisters  without  remorse  for  the  most  trifling 
offences,  or  for  no  offence  at  all,  and  it  was  not  uncommon  for 
him  to  take  upon  himself  the  oflice  of  executioner.  The 
frank  barbarity  of  the  court  is  strikingly  illustrated  by  tbe  fol- 
lowing incident.  Four  days  after  bis  first  visit,  Speke  was 
again  in  the  palace,  and  was  requested  to  shoot  four  cows  which 
were  loose  in  the  enclosure.  “ Having  no  bullets*for  my  gun, 
I borrowed  the  revolving  pistol  I had  given  the  king,  and  shot 
all  four  in  a second  of  time  ; but  as  the  last  one,  only  wrounded, 
turned  sharply  upon  me,  I gave  her  the  fifth  and  settled  her. 
Great  applause  followed  this  wonderful  feat,  and  the  cows 
were  given  to  my  men.  The  kiug  now  loaded  one  of  the  car- 
bines I had  given  him  with  his  own  hands,  and  giving  it  full- 
cock  to  a page,  told  him  to  go  out  and  shoot  a man  in  the  outer 
court,  which  was  no  sooner  accomplished  than  the  little  urchin 
returned  to  announce  his  success  with  a look  of  glee,  such  as 
ono  would  see  in  the  face  of  a boy  who  had  robbed  a bird’s 
nest,  caught  a trout,  or  done  any  other  boyish  trick.  The  king 
said  to  him, ‘And  did  you  do  it  well ? ’ ‘Oh  yes,  capitally.’ 
He  spoke  the  truth,  no  doubt,  for  he  dared  not  have  trifled 
with  the  king;  but  tbe  affair  created  hardly  any  interest.  I 
never  heard,  and  there  appeared  no  curiosity  to  know,  what 
individual  human  being  the  urchin  had  deprived  of  life.” 

The  only  really  pleasant  incident  of  the  travellers’  story  in 
Uganda  was  the  arrival  of  Grant,  who,  on  learning  from  Speke 
of  the  chance  of  getting  northward,  left  Karagwe,  and  per- 
formed the  journey  on  a litter,  reaching  Mtesa’s  capital  on  the 
24th  of  May. 

At  last,  after  every  argument  had  been  tried  and  induce- 
ment offered,  without  success,  a lucky  fit  of  jealousy  against 
Itumanika  induced  Mtesa  to  favor  the  travellers’  design  of 
going  northward.  lie  would  show  Itumanika,  he  said,  that  all 


286 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


his  supplies  need  not  come  through  his  country.  If  the  white 
men  would  open  a route  of  traffic  for  him  to  the  north,  he 
would  furnish  them  with  guides  to  Unyoro  and  with  boats  for  a 
voyage  on  the  Nile.  They  closed  with  this  on  the  spot,  urged 
forward  the  preparations  in  feverish  anxiety,  and  on  the  7th  of 
July  were  once  more  on  their  way  northward. 

When  they  reached  the  frontier  of  Unyoro,  Speke  deter- 
mined to  send  Grant  forward  with  the  main  body  of  the  cara- 
van to  King  Kamrasi’s  capital,  while  he  himself  penetrated 
eastward,  to  the  point  where  the  Nile  was  supposed  to  flow  out 
of  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  They  separated  on  the  19th,  and  two 
days  afterward,  on  the  21st,  Speke  reached  the  river. 

“ Here  at  last,”  he  writes,  “ I stood  on  the  brink  of  the  Nile ; 
most  beautiful  was  the  scene,  nothing  could  surpass  it ! It  wras 
the  very  perfection  of  the  kind  of  effect  aimed  at  in  a highly  kept 
park;  with  a magnificent  stream  from  six  hundred  to  seven 
hundred  yards  wide,  dotted  with  islets  and  rocks,  the  former 
occupied  by  the  fishermen’s  huts,  the  latter  by  many  crocodiles 
basking  in  the  sun,  flowing  between  fine  grassy  banks,  with 
rich  trees  and  plantations  in  the  background,  where  herds  of 
the  hartbeest  could  be  seen  grazing,  while  the  hippopotami 
were  snorting  in  the  water,  and  florikin  and  guinea-fowl  rising 
at  our  feet.” 

They  proceeded  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Nile,  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  stream,  passing  through  rich  jungle  and  plan- 
tain gardens,  and  reached  the  Isainba  Rapids  on  the  25th  of 
July.  The  river  is  here  extremely  beautiful.  The  water  runs 
between  deep  banks  which  are  covered  with  fine  grass,  soft 
cloudy  acacias,  and  festoons  of  lilac  convolvuli.  On  the  28th, 
they  reached  Ripon  Falls,  after  a long  march  over  rough  hills, 
and  through  extensive  village  plantations  lately  devasted  by 
elephants.  But  they  were  well  rewarded,  for  the  falls  were 
the  most  interesting  sight  that  Speke  had  yet  seen  in  Africa. 
“Everybody,”  he  says,  “ran  to  see  them  at  once,  though  the 
march  had  been  long  and  fatiguing,  and  even  my  sketch-book 
w'as  called  into  play.  Though  beautiful,  the  scene  was  not 
exactly  what  I expected ; for  the  broad  surface  of  the  lake  was 
shut  out  from  view  by  a spur  of  hill,  and  the  falls,  about  12 
feet  deep,  and  400  to  500  feet  broad,  were  broken  by  rocks. 
Still  it  was  a sight  that  attracted  one  to  it  for  hours — the  roar 
of  the  waters,  the  thousands  of  passenger-fish,  leaping  at  the 
falls  with  all  their  might,  the  Wasoga  and  'Waganda  fishermen 
coming  out  in  boats  and  taking  post  on  all  the  rocks,  with  rod 
and  hook,  hippopotami  and  crocodiles  lying  sleepily  on  the 


RIPON  FALLS. 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


287 


water,  the  ferry  at  work  above  the  falls,  and  cattle  driven  down 
to  drink  at  the  margin  of  the  lake,  made,  in  all,  with  the  pretty 
nature  of  the  country — small  hills,  grassy-topped,  with  trees  in 
the  folds,  and  gardens  on  the  lower  slopes — as  interesting  a 
picture  as  one  could  wish  to  see.” 

“ The  expedition,”  lie  adds,  “ had  now  performed  its  func- 
tions. I saw  that  Old  Father  Nile  without  any  doubt  rises  in 
the  Victoria  N’Yanza,  and,  as  I had  foretold,  that  lake  is  the 
great  source  of  the  holy  river  which  cradled  the  first  expounder 
of  our  religious  belief.  I mourned,  however,  when  I thought 
how  much  time  1 had  lost  by  the  delays  in  the  journey  which 
had  deprived  me  of  the  pleasure  of  going  to  look  at  the  north- 
east corner  of  the  N’Yanza  to  see  what  connection  there  was, 
by  a strait  frequently  spoken  of,  between  it  and  the  other  lake 
where  the  Waganda  went  to  get  their  salt,  and  from  which  an- 
other river  flowed  to  the  north,  making  4 Usoga  an  island.’ 
But  I felt  I ought  to  be  content  with  what  I had  been  spared  to 
accomplish,  for  I had  seen  full  half  of  the  lake,  and  had  infor- 
mation given  me  of  the  other  half,  by  means  of  which  I knew 
all  about  the  lake,  as  far,  at  least,  as  the  chief  objects  of  geo- 
graphical importance  were  concerned.  Let  us  now  sum  up  the 
whole  and  see  what  it  is  worth.  Comparative  information  as- 
sured me  that  there  was  as  much  water  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  lake  as  there  is  on  the  western — if  anything,  rather  more. 
The  most  remote  water,  or  tog ) head  of  the  Nile,  is  the  south- 
ern end  of  the  lake,  situated  close  on  the  third  degree  of  south 
latitude,  which  gives  the  Nile  the  surprising  length,  in  direct 
measurement,  rolling  over  thirty-four  degrees  of  latitude,  of 
above  two  thousand  three  hundred  miles,  or  more  than  one- 
eleventh  of  the  circumference  of  our  globe.  Now,  from  this 
southern  point,  round  by  the  west,  to  where  the  great  Nile 
stream  issues,  there  is  only  one  feeder  of  any  importance,  and 
that  is  the  Kitangule  river ; whilst  from  the  southernmost 
point,  round  by  the  east  to  the  strait,  there  are  no  rivers  at  all 
of  any  importance ; for  the  travelled  Arabs  one  and  all  aver, 
that  from  the  west  of  the  snow-clad  Kilimanjaro  to  the  lake 
where  it  is  cut  by  the  second  degree,  and  also  the  first  degree 
of  south  latitude,  there  arc  salt  lakes  and  salt  plains,  and  the 
country  is  hilly,  not  unlike  Unyam G4zi ; but  they  say  there  are 
no  great  rivers,  and  the  country  is  so  scantily  watered,  having 
only  occasional  runnels  and  rivulets,  that  they  always  have  to 
make  long  marches  in  order  to  find  water  when  tivey  go  on 
their  trading  journeys:  and  further,  those  Arabs  who  had 
crossed  the  strait  on  going  to  Usoga  had  not  crossed  any  river. 


288 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


There  remains  to  be  disposed  of  the  ‘ salt  lake,’  which  I l>e- 
lieve  is  not  a salt  but  a fresh  water  lake  ; and  my  reasons  arc 
that  the  natives  call  all  lakes  salt,  if  they  find  salt  beds  or  salt 
islands  in  such  places.  Dr.  Krapf,  when  he  obtained  a sight 
of  the  Keuia  Mountains,  heard  from  the  natives  that  there  was 
a salt  lake  to  its  northward,  and  he  also  heard  that  a river  ran 
from  Kenia  towards  the  Nile.  If  his  information  was  true  on 
this  latter  point,  then,  without  doubt,  there  must  exist  some 
connection  between  this  river  and  the  salt  lake  I have  heard  of, 
and  this  in  all  probability  would  also  establish  a connection  be- 
tween my  salt  lake  and  his  salt  lake,  which  lie  heard  was  called 
Baringo.  In  no  view  that  can  be  taken  of  it,  however,  does 
this  unsettled  matter  touch  the  established  fact  that  the  head 
of  the  Nile  is  in  three  degrees  south  latitude,  where,  in  the 
year  1858, 1 discovered  the  head  of  the  Victoria  N’Yanza  to 
be.  I now  christened  the  ‘stones ’ Ripon  Falls,  after  the  noble- 
man who  presided  over  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  when 
my  expedition  was  got  up  ; and  the  area  of  water  from  which 
the  Nile  issued,  Napoleon  Channel,  in  token  of  respect  to  the 
French  Geographical  Society,  for  the  honor  they  had  done  me 
just  before  leaving  England,  in  presenting  me  with  their  gold 
medal  for  discovering  the  Victoria  Nyanza.”  The  lake  he 
found  to  be  3,750  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  or  upwards  of 
1,900  feet  above  the  altitude  of  Lake  Tangauzika,  with  which, 
therefore,  there  can  be  no  connection. 

Returning  to  the  point  at  which  he  had  first  struck  the  Nile, 
Speke  and  his  party  descended  the  river  in  five  boats  of  five 
planks  each,  tied  together  and  caulked  with  mbugn  rags,  llis 
destination  was  the  palace  of  Kamrasi,  king  of  Unyoro.  No 
one  knew  how  many  days  would  be  required  to  reach  it ; for 
the  crew  were  neither  expert  nor  diligent  in  the  use  of  the 
paddles  by  which  the  boats  were  propelled.  The  river  was 
at  once  river  and  lake— clear  in  the  centre,  and  fringed  gener- 
ally with  tall  rush,  above  which  the  green  banks  lose  gently 
into  land  which  looked  like  a cultivated  park.  After  several 
days’  voyaging,  the  hostility  of  the  natives  compelled  Speke  to 
leave  the  river  and  join  Grant ; and  together  they  marched  on 
toward  the  palace,  which  was  reached  September  4th.  They 
found  it  to  be  one  large,  dumpy  hut,  surrounded  by  many 
smaller  ones,  and  “ the  worst  royal  residence  since  leaving 
Uzinza.”  The  guests,  though  invited  to  the  palace,  were  placed 
in  dirty  little  huts  far  removed  from  it ; and  the  king  being 
constantly  drunk,  it  was  several  days  before  they  could  get 
their  quarters  changed.  On  the  14tii  Speke  had  an  interview 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT, 


289 


with  his  majesty,  who  almost  immediately  asked  for  a many- 
hladed  knife  which  his  officers  had  seen  in  the  hands  of  Cap- 
tain Grant.  Next  day  the  king  again  alluded  to  the  knife,  and 
said  lie  did  not  intend  to  keep  it  if  it  had  not  been  brought  for 
him,  but  wished  merely  to  look  at  it  and  would  return  it  again. 
Only  a few  days  more,  and  he  wished  to  have  a chronometer, 
worth  $250,  which  was  sure  to  be  spoiled  in  his  bands  in  a sin- 
gle day.  As  this  was  the  only  chronometer  Speke  had  with 
him,  he  requested  the  king  to  wait  until  he  had  procured  an- 
other. But  no  ; he  must  have  it  then  and  there.  Speke  placed 
it  on  the  ground,  saying,  “ The  instrument  is  yours,  but  I must 
keep  it  till  another  one  comes.”  “ No,”  said  the  king,  “ I must 
have  it  now,  and  will  send  it  to  you  three  times  a day  that  you 
may  look  at  it.”  The  watch  went,  gold  chain  and  all.  The 
rapacious  rogue  then  asked  Speke  if  lie  could  make  up  another 
“ magic  horse,”  as  lie  called  the  chronometer,  for  lie  hoped 
that  by  this  piece  of  extortion  he  had  deprived  the  explorers  of 
the  power  or  travelling.  When  he  was  told  that  it  would  take 
500  cows  to  purchase  another,  the  whole  court  was  more  con- 
firmed than  ever  in  their  belief  in  its  magical  power ; for  who 
in  his  senses  would  give  500  cows  “ for  the  mere  gratification 
of  seeing  at  what  time  his  dinner  should  be  eaten  ? ” 

A month  had  elapsed  before  they  could  induce  Kanorasi  to 
furnish  them  with  guides  through  the  next  district ; and  it  was 
not  until  the  9th  of  November  that  they  were  once  more  on  the 
way.  During  the  first  eight  days  they  floated  slowly  down  the 
Nile,  which  at  first  resembled  a long  lake,  averaging  from  two 
hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  in  breadth.  Both  sides  of  the 
stream  were  fringed  with  the  huge  papyrus  rush.  The  left  one 
was  low  and  swampy  ; while  the  other  rose  in  a gently  sloping 
bank,  covered  with  trees  and  beautiful  festoons  of  convolvuli. 
There  were  also  floating  islands,  continually  in  motion,  with  a 
growth  upon  them  of  rush,  grass,  and  ferns.  These  islands 
were  slowly  working  their  way  downwards,  thus  proving  that 
the  river  was  in  full  flood. 

Just  before  reaching  the  Karuma  Falls,  they  once  more  took 
to  the  laud,  and  marched  northwards  through  the  wilderness  of 
Kidi  and  the  country  of  the  Madi.  On  the  3d  of  December 
they  reached  Faloro,  near  which  they  fell  in  with  a Turkish 
expedition  in  search  of  ivory  ; and  on  the  13th  of  January, 
1863,  arrived  at  Paira,  a collection  of  villages  in  sight  of  the 
Nile.  Still  pressing  onward,  on  the  15th  of  February  they 
inarched  into  Gondokoro,  the  most  northerly  station  on  the 
White  Nile,  where  Speke  had  the  pleasant  surprise  of  meeting 


290 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


liis  old  friend  Baker,  who  told  him  that  he  had  come  np  with 
three  vessels  fully  equipped  with  armed  men,  camels,  horses, 
donkeys,  beads,  brass  wire,  and  everything  necessary  for  a long 
journey,  expressly  in  aid  of  the  explorers. 

The  long  exploration  which  had  been  carried  forward  through 
so  much  difficulty  and  discouragement,  was  now  substantially 
finished;  but  Speke  closes  his  journal  with  the  following  inter- 
esting particulars  concerning  the  Nile  and  its  various  affluents : 

“ the  first  affluent,  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal,  took  us  by  surprise; 
for  instead  of  finding  a large  lake,  as  described  in  our  maps, 
at  an  elbow  of  the  Nile,  we  found  only  a small  piece  of  water 
resembling  a duck-pond,  buried  in  a sea  of  rushes.  The 
old  Nile  swept  through  it  with  majestic  grace,  and  carried  us 
next  to  the  Geraffe  branch  of  the  Sobat  Biver,  the  second  afflu- 
ent, which  we  found  flowing  into  the  Nile  with  a graceful  semi- 
circular sweep  and  good  stiff  current,  apparently  deep,  but  not 
more  than  fifty  yards  broad. 

“ Next  in  order  came  the  main  stream  of  the  Sobat,  flowing 
into  the  Nile  in  the  same  graceful  way  as  the  Geraffe,  which  in 
breadth  it  surpassed,  but  in  velocity  of  current  was  inferior. 
The  Nile  by  these  additions  was  greatly  increased ; still  it  did 
not  assume  that  noble  appearance  which  astonished  us  so  much, 
immediately  after  the  rainy  season,  when  we  were  navigating 
it  in  canoes  in  Unyoro. 

“Next  to  be  treated  of  is  the  famous  Blue  Nile,  which  we 
found  a miserable  river,  even  when  compared  with  the  Geraffe 
branch  of  the  Sobat.  It  is  very  broad  at  the  mouth,  it  is  true, 
but  so  shallow  that  our  vessel  with  difficulty  was  able  to  come 
up  it.  It  had  all  the  appearance  of  a mountain  stream,  subject 
to  great  periodical  fluctuations.  I was  never  more  disap- 
pointed than  with  this  river.  If  the  White  Biver  was  cut  off 
from  it,  its  waters  would  all  be  absorbed  before  they  could 
reach  Lower  Egypt. 

“ The  Atbara  Biver,  which  is  the  last  affluent,  was  more  like 
the  Blue  Biver  than  any  of  the  other  affluents,  being  decidedly 
a mountain  stream,  which  floods  in  the  rains,  but  runs  nearly 
dry  in  the  dry  season. 

“ I had  now  seen  quite  enough  to  satisfy  myself  that  the 
White  Biver,  which  issues  from  the  N’Yanza  at  the  Bipon 
Falls,  is  the  true  or  parent  Nile  ; for  in  every  instance  of  its 
branching,  it  carried  the  palm  with  it  in  the  distinctest  man- 
ner, viewed,  as  all  the  streams  were  by  me,  in  the  dry  season, 
which  is  the  best  time  for  estimating  their  relative  perennial 
values. 


SPEKE  AND  GRANT. 


291 


“ Since  returning  to  England,  Dr.  Murie,  who  was  with  me 
at  Gondokoro,  has  also  come  home;  and  he,  judging  from  mv 
account  of  the  way  in  which  we  got  ahead  or  the  flooding  of 
the  Nile  between  the  Karuma  Falls  and  Gondokoro,  is  of  opin- 
ion that  the  Little  Lnta  N’Zige,  must  be  a great  backwater  to 
the  Nile,  which  the  waters  of  the  Nile  must  have  been  occupied 
in  filling  during  my  residence  in  Madi ; and  then  about  the 
same  time  that  I set  out  from  Madi,  the  Little  Luta  N’Zige, 
having  been  overcharged  with  water,  the  surplus  began  its 
march  northwards,  just  about  the  same  time  when  we  stalled 
in  the  same  direction.  For  myself,  I believe  in  this  opinion, 
as  he  no  sooner  asked  me  how  1 could  account  for  the  phenom- 
enon I have  already  mentioned  of  the  river  appearing  to  de- 
crease in  bulk  as  we  descended  it,  than  I instinctively  advanced 
his  own  theory.  Moreover,  the  same  hypothesis  will  answer 
for  the  sluggish  flooding  of  the  Nile  down  to  Egypt.” 

Both  Speke  and  Grant  on  their  return  to  England  were  re- 
ceived with  distinguished  honors.  Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  in 
presenting  them  to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  spoke  in 
enthusiastic  terms  of  the  important  results  of  their  expedition. 
The  gold  medal  of  the  society  was  awarded  to  the  discoverers, 
and  the  queen  congratulated  the  society  on  the  success  of  an 
enterprise  aided  in  part  by  government  funds.  The  king  of 
Italy  also  forwarded  gold  medals;  and  Lord  Palmerston,  in  the 
House  of  Commons,  added  his  tribute  to  the  discoverers  of  the 
source  of  the  Nile.  The  deaths  of  great  discoverers,  however, 
are  not  always  proportioned  to  their  lives.  Bruce,  as  we  have 
seen,  died  in  consequence  of  a fall  downstairs,  and  Mungo 
Park  was  miserably  drowned.  While  still  in  the  first  flush  of 
his  great  success,  Captain  Speke  went  out  for  a day’s  field-sport, 
and  accidentally  shot  himself  on  1 he  21st  of  September,  1864, 
not  long  after  having  published  his  journals. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

SIR  SAMUEL  BARER. 


It  has  already  been  mentioned  in  the  previous  chapter,  that 
one  of  the  first  persons  met  by  Speke  on  his  arrival  at  Gondo- 
koro,  was  Mr.  Samuel  White  Baker,  who  told  him  that  he  had 
organized  an  expedition,  and  come  thus  far  for  the  especial  pur- 
pose of  searching  for  him  and  Grant — if  they  had  been  success- 
ful, to  assist  them  in  reaching  home  ; if  they  were  dead,  to  as- 
certain their  fate  ; and  if  they  had  only  in  part  accomplished 
their  purpose,  to  complete,  if  possible  their  discoveries.  Baker 
was  an  old  friend  of  Speke’s ; like  the  latter,  had  been  a great 
sportsman  ; and  again,  like  his  friend,  was  a man  of  noble  am> 
bition.  He  had  become  inured  to  a tropical  climate  by  a resi- 
dence of  eight  years  in  Ceylon;  was  familiar  with  danger  in 
all  the  many  forms  in  which  it  presents  itself  in  savage  coun- 
tries ; and  was  the  very  man  to  undertake  a hazardous  enter- 
prise. Speke  left  Zanzibar,  as  we  have  seen,  in  September, 
1860  ; in  April,  1861,  six  months  afterwards,  Baker  left  Cairo, 
having  organized  a large  and  costly  expedition  of  his  own. 
Warned  by  the  experience  of  his  predecessors  of  the  dangers 
resulting  from  divided  counsels,  he  determined  that  there 
should  be  no  one  to  consult ; and  therefore  f urnished  the  ex- 
pedition entirely  at  his  own  expense, — being  amenable  to  no 
one  if  it  should  fail,  and  not  disposed  to  share  the  credit  with 
another  if  it  should  succeed.  Ilis  arrangements  were  admi- 
rable ; he  provided  everything  but  honest  men ; these  were 
beyond  his  reach.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  a Swedish 
lady  whom  he  had  met  and  married  at  Cairo,  and  who  insisted 
upon  sharing  with  him  the  perils  of  the  unknown  interior. 
She  was  very  young,  scarcely  more  than  a girl  in  fact ; but 
she  was  possessed  of  a courage  greater  than  that  of  most  men, 
with  a clear  head,  and  a decision  which  in  cases  of  sudden 
emergency,  could  quickly  manifest  itself  in  action.  The  part 
taken  by  this  lady  in  the  work  of  the  expedition  is  greatly  to 
her  honor. 

Before  the  expedition  had  gone  further  than  Berber,  in  Ethio- 
pia, Baker  felt  convinced  that  success  in  his  White  Nile  explor- 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


293 


ation  would  be  impossible  without  a knowledge  of  Arabia, 
as  lie  wras  completely  at  the  mercy  of  his  interpreter.  He  re- 
solved, therefore,  to  postpone  the  main  object  of  his  journey 
until  he  had  mastered  the  Arabic  language  ; and,  accordingly, 
he  spent  a whole  year  in  examining  the  Atbara  and  the  Blue 
Nile,  the  two  great  affluents  of  the  White  Nile,  which,  though 
the  former  is  often  perfectly  dry  for  months,  and  the  latter 
also  for  part  of  the  year  quite  insignificant,  pour  such  vast 
volumes  into  the  main  stream  in  June,  that  they  cause  the  an- 
nual inundation  in  Lower  Egypt.  He  explored  the  Atbara 
and  its  affluents  to  their  sources  in  the  mountains  of  Abyssinia; 
crossed  over  to  the  Blue  Nile,  which  he  descended  in  boats ; 
and  on  the  lltli  of  June,  1862,  having  in  the  meanwhile  ac- 
quired a satisfactory  knowledge  of  Arabic,  found  himself  in 
Khartoom,  ready  to  prosecute  his  White  Nile  scheme. 

At  Khartoom  he  encountered  difficulties  at  every  turn,  all 
parties  being  utterly  hostile  to  him,  as  a spy  who  would  pry 
into  the  iniquitous  dealings  of  the  merchant  companies  whose 
depot  and  base  it  is  ; but  in  spite  of  all  obstacles,  he  collected 
ninety -six  followers  of  dubious  character,  and  chartered  three 
Nile  boats.  Having  made  preparations  on  the  most  liberal 
scale,  not  only  for  his  own  party,  but  for  the  relief  of  Speke’s, 
he  left  Khartoom  for  Gondokoro,  on  the  18th  of  December, 
lie  was  opposed  in  every  way  up  to  the  very  last,  and  his  final 
act  at  Khartoom  was  what  he  calls  a “ physical  explanation  ” 
with  the  Reis  of  the  Government  boat,  which  purposely  ran  into 
him  at  starting.  He  took  with  him,  besides  his  servants  and 
soldiers,  twenty-one  donkeys,  four  camels,  and  four  horses,  that 
he  might  be  less  dependent  upon  native  porters,  who  are  so 
hard  to  obtain  without  the  assistance  of  the  ivory  merchants 
and  slave-dealers.  He  had  given  his  personal  superintendence 
to  pack-saddles,  forage,  and  general  equipage,  so  that  when  lie 
arrived  at  Gondokoro,  after  a voyage  up  the  White  Nile  of 
about  six  weeks,  his  animals  were  all  in  good  condition. 

Baker  remained  at  Gondokoro  from  the  3d  of  February  till 
the  20th  of  March,  distrusted  and  treated  as  a spy.  On  the 
15th  of  February,  twelve  days  after  his  arrival,  occurred  his 
memorable  meeting  with  Speke  and  Grant,  of  which  he  gives 
an  animated  account.  “ When  I first  met  them,”  he  writes, 
“ they  were  walking  along  the  bank  of  the  river  towards  my 
boats.  At  a distance  of  about  a hundred  yards  I recognized 
my  old  friend  Speke,  and  with  a heart  beating  with  joy  1 took 
off  my  cap  and  gave  a welcome  hurrah ! as  I ran  towards  him. 
For  the  moment  he  did  not  recognize  me ; ten  years’  growth 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


29  i 

of  beard  and  moustache  had  worked  a change;  and  as  I was 
totally  unexpected,  my  sudden  appearance  in  the  centre  of 
Africa  appeared  to  him  incredible.  I hardly  required  an  in- 
troduction to  his  companion,  as  we  felt  already  acquainted, 
and  after  the  transports  of  this  happy  meeting  we  walked  to- 
gether to  m37  diahbiah,  m}r  men  surrounding  11s  with  smoke 
and  noise  by  keeping  up  an  unremitting  fire  of  musketry  the 
whole  way.  We  were  shortly  seated  on  deck  under  the  own- 
ing,  and  such  rough  fare  as  could  be  hastily  prepared  was  set 
before  these  two  ragged,  careworn  specimens  of  African  travel, 
whom  I looked  upon  with  feelings  of  pride  as  my  own  country- 
men. As  a good  ship  arrives  in  harbor,  battered  and  torn  by 
a long  and  stormy  voyage,  yet  sound  in  her  frame  and  sea- 
worthy to  the  last,  so  both  these  gallant  travellers  arrived  at 
Gondokoro.  Speke  appeared  the  more  worn  of  the  two ; he 
was  excessively  lean,  but  in  reality  he  was  in  good  tough  con- 
dition ; he  had  walked  the  whole  way  from  Zanzibar,  never 
having  once  ridden  during  that  wearying  march.  Grant  was 
in  honorable  rags ; his  bare  knees  projecting  through  the  rem- 
nants of  trowsers  that  were  an  exhibition  of  rough  industry  in 
tailor’s  work.  He  was  looking  tired  and  feverish ; but  both 
men  had  a fire  in  the  eye  that  showed  the  spirit  that  had  led 
them  through.” 

On  first  meeting  Speke  and  Grant,  and  learning  their  convic- 
tion that  they  had  accomplished  the  discovery  of  the  Nile 
source,  Baker  felt  that  nothing  remained  for  him  to  do  but  to 
disband  the  expedition  whose  preparation  had  cost  him  so 
much  time,  labor,  and  money.  But  Speke  soon  showed  him  a 
map  of  his  route,  and  pointed  out  that  he  had  been  unable  to 
complete  the  actual  exploration  of  the  Nile,  and  that  a most 
important  portion  still  remained  to  be  determined.  “It  ap- 
peared that  in  N.  lat.  2°  17',  Speke  and  Grant  had  crossed  the 
Nile,  which  they  had  tracked  from  the  Victoria  Lake;  but  the 
river,  which  from  its  exit  from  that  lake  had  a northern  course, 
turned  suddenly  to  the  west  from  Karutna  Falls  (the  point  at 
which  they  had  crossed  it  at  lat.  2°  17').  They  did  not  see 
the  Nile  again  until  they  arrived  in  N.  lat.  3°  32',  which  was 
then  flowing  from  the  W.S.W.  The  natives  and  the  King  of 
Unyoro  (Kamrasi)  had  assured  them  that  the  Nile  from  the 
Victoria  Nyanza,  which  they  had  crossed  at  Karuma,  flowed 
westward  for  several  days’ journey,  and  at  length  fell  into  a 
large  lake  called  the  Luta  Nzigc ; that  this  lake  came  from  the 
south,  and  that  the  Nile  on  entering  the  northern  extremity 
almost  immediately  made  its  exit,  and  as  a navigable  river 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


205 


continues  its  course  to  the  north,  through  the  Koslii  and  Madi 
countries.  Both  Speke  and  Grant  attached  great  importance  to 
tiiis  lake  Luta  Nzige,  and  the  former  was  much  annoyed  that 
it  had  been  impossible  for  them  to  carry  out  tin)  exploration, 
lie  foresaw  that  stay-at-home  geographers,  who,  with  a com- 
fortable arm-chair  to  sit  in,  travel  so  easity  with  their  fingers 
on  a map,  would  ask  him  why  he  had  not  gone  from  such  a 
place  to  such  a place  ? why  he  had  not  followed  the  Nile  to  the 
Luta  Nzige  lake,  and  from  the  lake  to  Gondokoro?  As  it 
happened,  it  was  impossible  for  Speke  and  Grant  to  follow  the 
Nile  from  Karuma : — the  tribes  were  fighting  with  Kamrasi, 
and  no  strangers  could  have  got  through  the  country.  Accord- 
ingly they  procured  their  information  most  carefully,  completed 
their  map,  and  laid  down  the  reported  lake  in  its  supposed 
position,  showing  the  Nile  as  both  influent  and  effluent  precisely 
as  had  been  explained  by  the  natives. 

“ Speke  expressed  his  conviction  that  the  Luta  Nzige  must 
be  a second  source  of  the  Nile,  and  that  geographers  would  be 
dissatisfied  that  he  had  not  explored  it.  To  me  this  was  most 
gratifying.  I had  been  much  disheartened  at  the  idea  that  the 
great  work  was  accomplished,  and  that  nothing  remained  for 
exploration  ; I even  said  to  Speke, 4 Does  not  one  leaf  of  the 
laurel  remain  for  me?’  I now  heard  that  the  field  was  not 
only  open,  but  that  an  additional  interest  was  given  to  the  ex- 
ploration by  the  proof  that  the  Nile  flowed  out  of  one  great 
lake,  the  Victoria;  but  that  it  evidently  must  derive  an  addi- 
tional supply  from  an  unknown  lake  as  it  entered  it  at  the 
northern  extremity,  while  the  body  of  the  lake  came  from  the 
south.  The  fact  of  a great  body  of  water  such  as  the  Luta 
Nzige  extending  in  a direct  line  from  south  to  north,  while  the 
general  system  of  drainage  of  the  Nile  was  from  the  same  di- 
rection, showed  most  conclusively,  that  the  Luta  Nzige,  if  it 
existed  in  the  form  assumed,  must  have  an  important  position 
in  the  basin  of  the  Nile.” 

Here  then  was  work  worthy  of  his  ambition,  and  as  the  first 
step  towards  its  accomplishment  he  determined  to  accompany 
Debono’s  party  (which  had  brought  down  Speke  and  Grant) 
back  to  Faloro,  and  as  much  further  as  they  could  be  induced 
to  go.  To  this  end  he  concluded  an  engagement  with  Moham- 
med, the  leader  of  the  party,  which  seemed  to  promise  most 
favorably ; but  he  soon  discovered  that  it  was  a ruse  on  the 
part  of  the  Gondokoro  traders,  who  had  resolved  to  defeat  his 
expedition  at  all  hazards.  The  traders  entered  into  a regular 
conspiracy  against  Baker,  circulating  the  most  damaging  re- 


206 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


ports  concerning  liim  amongst  his  own  men,  who  actually 
agreed  to  mutiny,  and  if  interfered  with  to  kill  him.  Fortu- 
nately this  plot  was  revealed  to  him  in  time;  he  discharged 
mo§t  of  his  escort  on  the  spot, — but  that  same  day  had  the 
mortification  of  seeing  Mohammed’s  party  leave  for  Faloro, 
and  of  receiving  word  that  if  he  followed  on  their  road  they 
would  fire  upon  him. 

There  was  just  one  trader  in  Gondokoro  who  seemed  friendly 
to  Baker, — a Circassian  named  Koorshid.  Just  when  Baker 
had  seen  all  his  expedients  for  getting  forward  fail,  and  was 
beginning  to  feel  convinced  that  his  chances  were  hopeless, 
a party  of  Koorshid’s  people  arrived  with  ivory  from  the  La- 
tooka  county,  an  unexplored  district  lying  some  seventy  or 
eighty  miles  eastward  from  Gondokoro.  Several  of  the  Latooka 
people  came  with  them ; they  visited  Baker,  gave  him  many 
particulars  concerning  their  country,  and  begged  him  to  visit 
it.  He  resolved  to  accept  the  invitation,  and  Koorshid  favored 
his  design  ; but  Ibrahim,  the  Arab-Turk  who  commanded  the 
party,  and  all  his  men,  fearing  that  he  would  expose  the  hor- 
rible cruelties  of  their  slave-traffic,  declared  that  they  would 
prevent  him  from  accompanying  them,  and  on  marching  off 
sent  a messenger  to  Baker  daring  him  to  follow.  The  circum- 
stances were  desperate  and  discouraging ; but  by  threats  and 
persuasions  Baker  prevailed  on  seventeen  of  the  men  whom  he 
had  previously  enlisted  at  great  expense  to  proceed  with  him. 
They  were  the  worst  of  the  lot,  and  he  was  perfectly  aware 
that  they  would  embrace  the  first  opportunity  to  desert,  or 
even  to  murder  him  ; but  he  was  prepared,  as  he  thought,  for 
the  emergency.  Between  Gondokoro  and  the  country  of  the 
Latookas  there  is  a district  called  Ellvria,  where  the  road  to 
Latooka  leads  through  a narrow  defile  in  the  mountains,  in 
which  Baker’s  small  party  could  easily  be  destroyed.  Baker 
started  after  Ibrahim  with  the  intention  of  passing  him  in 
the  night,  outmarching  him,  arriving  first  in  Ellyria  and  se- 
curing" the  good-will  of  the  natives  by  kindness  and  presents 
before  Ibrahim  should  have  time  to  poison  their  minds  against 
him  and  thus  prevent  the  passage  of  the  mountains.  The 
scheme  was  good  enough,  but  it  failed.  These  trading-parties 
when  outward  bound  generally  travel  light.  Ibrahim  had  but 
little  to  carry,  lie  went  to  steal  cattle  from  one  trilie  and  ex- 
change them  for  ivory  and  slaves  with  another.  Baker  in- 
tended to  pay  his  way  like  a gentleman  ; and  therefore,  wliile 
he  was  toiling  on  with  liis  heavily-laden  camels  and  donkeys, 
the  thief  won  the  race  and  was  first  at  Ellyria. 


ELEPHANT  ATTACKED  BY  SWORDS -MEN. 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER . 


297 


Baker  and  his  wife,  far  in  advance  of  their  party  and  con- 
gratulating themselves  on  the  success  of  their  plan,  had  entered 
the  mountain -pass,  dismounted  from  their  horses,  and  were 
talking  together  under  a tree  near  the  path,  when  they  heard 
the  approach  of  a party  which  they  supposed  to  be  their  own  ; 
but  it  was  that  of  the  Turks,  who  defiled  past  them  without 
salaaming,  and  with  an  expression  of  studied  insolence  upon 
their  countenances.  The  last  man  of  the  long  cavalcade  was 
Ibrahim  himself.  Baker  sat  there,  looking  at  that  beautiful, 
cruel  Arab-Turk  face,  with  the  wicked  dark  eyes,  which  would 
not  catch  his  own.  The  opportunity  was  being  quickly  lost. 
Mrs.  Baker  urged  her  husband  to  speak,  but  he  would  not,  and 
she  spoke  herself;  he  was  already  almost  beyond  earshot,  when 
she  called  Ibrahim  by  name.  The  ice  was  broken  ; and  a louder 
challenge  from  Mr.  Baker  brought  the  man  to  their  side. 
They  were  friends.  The  lady’s  voice  had  brought  these  two 
antagonistic  spirits  into  amicable  intercourse,  and  so  had  saved 
the  expedition.  Not  that  there  was  much  show  of  affection  at 
ffrst,.  Baker  told  Ibrahim  that  if  anything  happened  to  him 
(Baker)  he  (Ibrahim)  was  sure  to  be  hung,  arid  Mrs.  Baker  fol- 
lowed in  a milder  strain.  They  concluded  a truce,  Baker 
promising  ivory  and  Ibrahim  pledging  friendship,  but  warning 
the  Englishman  not  to  come  near  his  men  for  the  present. 
From  this  moment  Ibrahim  was  at  Mr.  Baker’s  call.  The  in- 
fluence of  the  stronger  mind  over  the  weaker  was  gradual  in 
its  growth,  but  that  growth  was  sure  and  steady.  In  the  end 
it  was  almost  absolute. 

Another  great  difficulty  soon  occurred.  Ibrahim  had  a little 
girl  with  him,  and  Mrs.  Baker  had  so  won  upon  him  by  her  kind- 
ness to  his  child,  that  he  confided  to  the  travellers  the  infor- 
mation that  their  men  intended  to  desert  them  when  they  came 
to  Latome.  Accordingly,  when  they  reached  that  village,  they 
found  that  their  men  were  already  mixed  with  those  of  Mo- 
hammed, who  was  there.  Baker  therefore  determined  that  he 
should  not  remain,  but  would  start  next  day  with  Ibrahim.  It 
was  a riotous,  anxious  night.  At  half-past  five  in  the  morning 
Ibrahim’s  party  beat  drum  and  prepared  to  start,  and  Mr.  Ba- 
ker gave  orders  to  rise  and  follow : but  not  a man  moved  ; on 
repeating  the  order,  a few  rose  and  rested  on  their  guns.  The 
arch-rebel,  Bellaal,  was  standing  near  Mr.  Baker,  leaning  on 
his  gun,  and  eyeing  him  with  the  most  determined  insolence. 
Baker  pretended  not  to  notice  him,  and  gave  the  order  the 
third  time.  The  man  marched  straight  up  to  him,  and,  strik- 
ing his  gun  on  the  ground,  declared  that  “ not  a man  should 


298 


SIR  SAMUEL  RAKER 


move,”  and  refused  to  load  the  camels.  For  reply,  Baker  struck 
him  a blow  on  the  jaw,  which  sent  the  miscreant’s  gun  flying 
into  the  air,  while  the  offender  himself  staggered  and  fell  in- 
sensible. Rushing  in,  single-handed,  among  the  others,  he 
seized  some  of  them  by  the  throat,  and  brought  them  one  by 
one  to  the  camels.  The  Yakeel,  or  head  man  of  the  party,  who 
had  thought  it  as  well  to  be  accidentally  absent,  now  appeared, 
and  things  were  righted  once  more. 

The  country  along  which  they  now  passed  was  most  beauti- 
ful. Jungles  and  trees  alternated  with  plains,  and  mountains 
rose  all  around  them  to  the  height  of  from  3,000  to  4,000  feet. 
Their  own  party  having  been  brought  into  subjection,  the  two 
travellers  by  themselves  hastened  to  overtake  Ibrahim.  As 
they  approached  a village,  one  of  the  native  porters  in  Ibra- 
him’s caravan  threw  down  his  load  and  ran.  He  would  cer- 
tainly have  been  shot  if  Baker  had  not  at  once  ridden  after 
him  and  kept  between  the  guns  and  the  runaway,  thus  run- 
ning the  risk  of  the  latter’s  turning  upon  him  and  killing  him 
with  his  spear.  But  the  poor  fellow  threw  away  his  spear, 
while  he  quickened  his  speed.  At  length  Baker  closed  upon 
him  and  made  signs  for  him  to  catch  his  horse’s  mane,  which 
in  his  terror  he  did,  and  returned  to  the  party.  Baker  claimed 
him  as  his  property,  that  he  might  protect  him,  and  would 
not  allow  the  Turks  either  to  shoot  him  or  flog  him,  and  going 
to  Ibrahim,  procured  his  pardon,  thus  gaining  the  admiration 
of  the  Turks  for  his  gallantry,  and  the  love  of  the  natives  for 
his  humanity.  When  his  own  party  came  up,  he  found  that 
three  men,  including  Bellaal,  had  deserted  and  joined  Mo- 
hammed. “ Inshallah,”  lie  exclaimed,  “ the  vultures  shall  pick 
their  bones  I ” The  words  produced  a great  effect,  at  the  time, 
on  those  who  heard  them ; and  a still  deeper  one  when  they 
were  afterwards  terribly  fulfilled. 

The  next  stoppage  was  at  Tarrangolle,  the  chief  town  of  La- 
tooka,  thirteen  miles  beyond  LatormL  Baker  declares  the  La- 
tookas  to  be  the  finest,  savages  he  ever  saw.  They  are  nearly  six 
feet  high,  with  fine  foreheads,  good  features,  and  handsome 
bodies.  In  manners,  they  are  frank,  naive,  good-humored, 
and  polite  ; and  arc  thus  in  utter  contrast  with  the  tribes  which 
surround  them.  They  seem  to  be  of  a Galla  or  Abyssinian- 
Asiatic  origin.  The  head-dress  of  the  men  is  very  remarkable 
— their  coiffure  taking  from  eight  to  ten  years  to  bring  it  to 
perfection.  The  hair  is  at  first  “ felted  ” with  fine  twine ; as 
the  fresh  hair  grows  through  this,  the  twine  process  is  repeated, 
until  at  last  a compact  substance  is  formed,  au  inch  aud  a half 


A LION  HUNT. 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


299 


thick,  trained  into  the  form  of  a helmet,  with  a frontlet  and 
crest  of  copper.  Of  course,  they  never  disturb  this,  and  it  lasts 
them  their  lifetime.  They  ornament  it  with  beads,  cowries,  os- 
trich feathers,  and  other  decorations,  but  have  not  a particle  of 
clothing  of  any  kind  upon  their  bodies. 

Tarrangolle  (120  miles  N.  E.  of  Debono’s  station  at  Faloro, 
where  Speke  met  Mohammed)  contains  about  3,000  houses. 
It  is  strongly  fortiiicd  by  palisades,  with  low  entrances  at  inter- 
vals, these  being  closed  at  night  with  thorn-bushes.  The  main 
street  is  broad,  but  all  the  others  are  so  narrow  as  to  admit 
only  one  cow  at  a time.  These  narrow  lanes  lead  to  the  kraals 
in  various  parts  of  the  town  in  which  the  cattle,  their  only 
wealth,  are  housed  ; and,  in  consequence  of  the  narrowness  of 
the  approaches,  they  are  easily  defended,  a matter  of  moment 
in  a country  where  cattle-stealing  is  prevalent.  The  houses  for 
the  people  are  of  conical  shape,  and,  as  is  almost  univer- 
sally the  case  in  Africa,  are  without  windows.  On  ap- 
proaching every  town  since  Latome,  it  has  been  observed  that, 
near  it,  was  invariably  a vast  heap  of  human  remains,  mixed 
with  fragments  of  pottery.  These  have  their  origin  in  the  pe- 
culiar funeral  rites  of  the  Latookas.  When  a man  dies  a natu- 
ral death,  he  is  buried  close  to  his  own  door,  and  there  are  fu- 
neral dances  in  his  honor  for  several  weeks ; at  the  end  of  that 
time  they  dig  him  up,  and  having  cleaned  the  bones,  put  them 
in  an  earthen  jar  and  carry  them  out  of  the  town — and  there 
they  remain. 

At  this  town  Baker  pitched  his  tent,  and  remained  for  some 
time,  lie  won  the  confidence  of  the  king  by  presents,  and  his 
majesty  became  extremely  friendly.  The  men  in  this  district 
have  just  as  many  wives  as  they  can  keep,  and  there  is  no 
other  restriction.  But  their  domestic  affections  are  weak. 
They  will  not  fight  for  their  wives  and  children,  but  will  for 
their  cattle.  An  illustration  of  this  fact  was  given  not  long  after 
the  arrival  of  the  party.  .Ibrahim  and  his  men  had  reconnoi- 
tred a village  in  the  hills,  with  a view  to  attacking  it,  and  seiz- 
ing its  inhabitants  for  slaves ; but  they  found  it  too  strong  for 
them.  It  was  reported  in  a few  days  that  the  party  of  Mo- 
hammed had  attacked  it  and  utterly  destroyed  it.  lie  had  sent 
against  it  one  hundred  and  ten  armed  men  and  three  hundred 
natives,  and  they  had  burnt  it  and  carried  off  a great  number 
of  slaves.  They  were  in  safe  retreat  when  a native  promised 
to  guide  them  to  the  cattle-kraals,  and  they  returned.  But  now 
that  their  beasts  were  in  danger,  the  Latookas,  who  had  al- 
lowed their  wives  and  children  to  be  led  away  to  slavery, 


300 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


turned  upon  the  aggressors,  and  with  one  fierce  charge  routed 
them,  and  drove  them  down  the  glen.  Behind  every  rock 
there  was  an  armed  man,  stones  were  showered  on  the  attack- 
ing-party,  retreat  became  flight,  until,  mistaking  their  way, 
they  came  to  a precipice  five  hundred  feet  high,  over  which 
they  were  driven  by  the  Latookas  to  their  destruction.  Mo- 
hammed himself  had  not  been  with  the  party ; and  Bellaal, 
the  deserter  from  Mr.  Baker,  had,  luckily  for  him,  not  yet  re- 
covered from  the  effects  of  his  former  master’s  blow,  aud  so 
had  remained  in  camp ; but  several  of  the  other  fugitives  had 
perished  with  their  new  comrades.  “ Where,”  Baker  asked  on 
hearing  of  its  catastrophe,  “ are  the  men  who  deserted  from 
me  ? ” Ilis  men  were  al  most  green  with  awe  as  they  brought  to 
him  two  of  his  own  guns,  stained  with  blood,  which  had  been 
picked  up  on  the  scene  of  the  fight.  Observing  the  numbers 
on  the  guns,  he  repeated  aloud  the  names  of  the  dead  men  who 
had  carried  them,  and  added,  “ All  dead  ! Food  for  vultures  I ” 
His  influence  after  this  was  almost  unbounded.  The  poor,  su- 
perstitious men  believed  that  he  had  caused  the  disaster,  and 
when  he  was  casually  going  through  the  camp  would  quietly 
say,  “ My  God-master,”  to  which  he  would  reply,  “ There  is  a 
God.”  From  that  moment  he  observed  an  extraordinary 
change  in  the  manner  of  both  liis  own  people,  and  those  of 
Ibrahim,  all  of  whom  now  treated  him  with  the  greatest  respect. 

But  while  Baker  was  gaining  influence  among  the  Turks, 
the  whole  body  of  the  Turks  had  completely  lost  prestige 
among  the  Latookas  in  consequence  of  the  defeat  of  Mo- 
hammed. This  was  to  be  regretted,  inasmuch  as  it  had  be- 
come necessary  for  Ibrahim  to  return  to  Gondokoro  with  a 
very  large  detachment,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  ammuni- 
tion. There  were  but  thirty-live  men  of  his  party  left  behind. 
These  were  cantoned  among  the  natives,  being  entirely  at  their 
mercy,  and  yet  they  treated  their  hosts  with  stupid  brutality.  It 
was  not  possible  that  such  a state  of  things  could  continue.  Ba- 
ker saw  this  very  plainly,  and  his  suspicions  that  an  attack  was 
meditated  were  soon  confirmed  by  the  removal  from  the  town 
of  all  the  women  and  children.  He  sent  at  once  for  Com- 
moro,  the  more  influential  of  the  two  chiefs  of  the  Latookas, 
and  desired  to  be  informed  of  his  intentions.  The  chief  de- 
scribed very  fairly  the  state  of  exasperation  into  which  his  peo- 
ple had  been  worked,  and  stated  the  great  difficulty  there 
would  be  in  preventing  an  attack,  in  which  case  Baker’s  inno- 
cent party  would  be  confounded  with  Ibrahim’s  ruffians.  At 
nine  o’clock,  the  deadly  stillness  of  the  tropical  night  was  bro- 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


301 


ken  by  three  loud  booms  from  the  great  war-drum  of  the  La- 
tookas,  and  the  call  to  war  was  answered  from  every  point  of  the 
compass.  The  country  was  aroused.  But  the  Latookas  had  to 
deal  with  a vigilant  foe.  The  first  sounds  of  the  African  drum 
had  scarcely  died  away,  ere  they  were  answered  by  a furious 
and  defiant  rattle  from  that  of  the  Turks.  In  less  than  five 
minutes  the  two  parties  had  amalgamated  under  the  leadership 
of  Mr.  Baker,  while  Mrs.  Baker,  to  whose  share  fell  the  order- 
ing of  the  magazine,  had  her  hundreds  of  rounds  of  cartridges 
laid  in  order,  and  her  boxes  of  percussion-caps  open.  Baker’s 
quarters  were  in  the  very  stronghold  which  the  natives  had 
constructed  for  the  defence  of  the  town,  and  therefore  he  was 
not  by  any  means  anxious  as  to  the  result.  But  the  natives, 
finding  the  parties  prepared,  did  not  attack,  and,  after  three 
hours  of  drumming  and  counter-drumming,  Commoro  ap- 
peared, and  all  ended  without  bloodshed, — Baker  threatening  to 
burn  the  place  over  the  people’s  heads  if  they  beat  their  note 
of  war  again. 

Quiet  having  been  thus  established,  Baker  by  and  by  moved 
out  of  the  town  and  entrenched  himself  on  the  plains.  As  his 
detention  here  was  likely  to  be  for  some  time,  he  made  prepa- 
rations for  relieving  its  wearisomeness  by  the  help  of  a garden, 
lie  was  here  many  months,  and  spent  his  time  in  observing  the 
manners  of  the  people,  and  in  writing  down  his  opinions  about 
them,  those  opinions  being  very  unfavorable. 

A break  in  the  monotony  of  his  life  occurred  on  the  2d  of 
May,  1863,  at  which  date  he  started  on  a visit  to  a friendly 
tribe  at  a place  called  Obbo,  the  people  of  which  had  sent  him 
presents  and  encouraged  intercourse.  The  journey  was  south- 
west. Crossing  the  valley  of  Latooka,  the  party  arrived  at  the 
first  ridge ; and  having  succeeded  in  getting  across  all  their 
donkeys  except  one,  they  forded  the  River  Ivanieti,  and,  after 
sleeping  out  in  a soaking  rain,  began  the  main  ascent  of  the 
mountains,  which  they  found  to  be  extremely  difficult.  At  the 
summit,  they  found  themselves  on  a plateau  about  four  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  there  they  found 
the  highland  town  of  Obbo  (lat.  4°  N.).  The  country  was 
very  beautiful.  Bold  granite  peaks,  five  thousand  feet  in 
height,  towered  on  all  sides  above  the  wooded  valleys,  which 
were  narrowed  by  the  advancing  spurs  of  the  mountains,  each 
of  which  had  its  village  crowning  its  summit,  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  feet  above  the  heads  of  the  travellers.  The 
pure  air  was  delicious  ; and  there  was  a profusion  of  beautiful 
and  sweet-scented  flowers  all  around.  Wild  plums  and  custard 


302 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


The  flow  of  the  streams  was  to  the  north-west,  and  directly 
into  the  Nile,  which  was  about  thirty  miles  distant. 

The  people  arc  different  in  language  and  appearance  from 
those  of  Latooka.  They  dress  their  hair  in  the  form  of  a 
beaver’s  tail,  and  not  in  the  helmet  form  of  the  latter.  Their 
noses  are  higher,  and  they  wear  some  small  amount  of  clothing, 


KATCHIBA  AND  DIS  HEBE  ON  A JOURNEY. 


although  even  with  them  the  covering  is  very  scanty.  They  are 
courteous  in  their  manners,  and  never  ask  for  presents.  They 
are  ruled  by  a sorcerer  named  Katchiba,  who  is  a most  peculiar 
old  man,  and  from  whom  the  travellers  obtained  much  informa- 
tion about  the  country.  He  lias  a different  seraglio  at  every 
village,  in  order  that  his  wives  should  not  quarrel,  and  boasts 
of  one  hundred  and  sixteen  children  living.  His  method  of 
travelling  is  on  the  shoulders  of  one  of  his  slaves,  and  whenevei 
he  starts  on  a journey  a dozen  or  more  of  these  bearers  are 
among  his  retinue. 

Learning  that  to  the  south  there  was  a great  river  which  for 
many  months  in  the  year  could  not  be  crossed,  Mr.  Baker  re- 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


303 


solved  to  visit  it,  and  left  his  wife  with  eight  men  at  Obbo,  lie 
himself  starting  south  with  three,  on  the  7th  of  May.  Proceed- 
ing through  a country  of  great  beauty,  parallel  with  the  Madi 
Mountains,  whose  summits  are  8,000  feet  high,  he  particularly 
observed  the  beaut)’  of  the  orchis,  and  the  immense  number 
of  the  elephants,  in  an  attack  by  one  of  which  he  lost  his 
horse,  and  nearly  lost  his  life.  Tie  soon  reached  a fine  peren- 
nial stream,  the  Atabbi,  a tributary  of  the  Asua,  the  river 
which  he  had  come  to  see.  This  was  so  full  that  his  horse  had 
to  swim  a part  of  it.  Here  he  saw  a herd  of  two  hundred  ele- 
phants, and  killed  a hartbeest.  lie  arrived  the  next  day  at  the 
village  of  Shoggo,  thirty-five  miles  from  Obbo,  and  the  people 
received  him  kindly.  The  chief  confirmed  the  accounts 
which  had  formerly  been  given  him  respecting  the  Asua — it 
was  a roaring  torrent  which  it  was  impossible  to  cross  till  the 
rainy  season  was  over.  lie  therefore  returned  to  Obbo,  satis- 
fied with  the  exploration  which  he  had  made,  and  resolved  on 
the  exercise  of  patience  in  connection  with  future  and  further 
travel  in  the  same  direction.  He  found  that  Mrs.  Baker  had 
been  well  cared  for  by  the  old  sorcerer,  and  having  rewarded 
him,  and  left  iu  his  charge  two  hundreds  weight  of  ammunition, 
he  retraced  his  steps  to  his  depot  at  Latooka,  to  await  there  the 
cessation  of  the  rains,  which,  where  he  had  been,  had  been  ex- 
cessive, though  in  Latooka  they  had  hardly  begun.  As  yet,  the 
greater  part  of  it  had  fallen  among  the  mountains  where  he  had 
been  rambling,  and  where,  previous  to  his  excursion,  he  had 
seen  the  play  of  the  thunder-storms  every  day. 

After  their  return  to  Latooka,  Mrs.  Baker  was  attacked  with 
gastric  fever  ; he  himself  .was  prostrated  with  ague;  and  small- 
pox was  prevalent  among  the  slave-hunting  Turks.  But,  keep- 
ing the  parties  separate,  he  managed  to  prevent  his  own  men 
from  catching  the  infection.  One  of  his  best  horses  died  ; and 
we  may  remark  here  that  he  had  lost  every  beast  of  burden  he 
had — horse,  donkey,  or  camel — long  before  his  object  was  ac- 
complished. 

Baker  was  constantly  endeavoring,  at  this  time,  to  form  defi- 
nite conceptions  of  the  great  water  of  which  he  was  in  search. 
The  Bari  interpreter  had  told  him  of  a place — Magungo — 
which  was  on  a great  river,  and  he  had  concluded  that  that 
must  be  the  Asua,  the  river  to  the  southward  which  he  was 
waiting  to  cross.  But  now  in  talking  with  Wani,  another  in- 
terpreter, he  found  him  using  the  word  “ bahr”  (river  or  sea) 
instead  of  “ birke  ” (lake).  Magungo,  then,  was  situated  on  a 
lake  so  large  that  no  one  knew  its  limits.  Two  days  cast  and 


304 


SIB  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


two  days  west  from  Magnngo  no  land  is  visible,  while  to  the 
south  its  direction  is  utterly  unknown.  Large  vessels  on  which 
white  men  have  been  seen,  arrive  at  Magnngo,  bringing  cowrie 
shells.  From  this  information  it  was  evident  that  the  “Little 
Lake  ” of  Speke  was  a much  more  important  lake  than  had 
yet  been  supposed.  Magungo  must  therefore  be  found  and 
visited,  through  the  country  of  Kamrasi,  Speke’s  acquaint- 
ance. 

If  his  men  had  not  behaved  badly,  he  would  have  been  able 
to  push  forward  before  the  rainy  season  began  ; but  he  was 
hopelessly  detained  at  Tarrangolle,  where  the  people  were  be- 
coming hostile  to  their  presence.  The  traders  are  so  lordly  and 
brutal  towards  the  natives,  that  the  deepest  hatred  of  them  is 
generated  in  the  minds  of  the  latter;  who  yet,  in  their  igno- 
rance and  weakness,  never  think  of  combining  to  drive  out  the 
common  enemy.  They  rather  help  him  in  his  attacks  on  in- 
dividual tribes,  in  order  that  they  themselves  may  be  safer 
from  the  harm  which  such  tribes  might  inflict  upon  them  some 
future  day.  Finding,  from  the  prevalent  feeling  of  the  native 
community,  that  they  could  no  longer  remain  at  Tarrangolle, 
Ibrahim  and  his  party  determined  on  moving  to  Obbo.  This 
was  a great  annoyance  to  Baker;  but  hesitation  was  impossi- 
ble, and  delay  equally  so.  An  attack  was  expected  from  the 
exasperated  natives  daily,  and  it  was  impossible  to  get  on 
in  any  way  without  the  companionship  of  the  traders.  But 
the  rainy  season  was  at  its  height,  and  Mrs.  Baker  was  very  ill 
and  unlit  to  move.  A palanquin  was  therefore  contrived  for 
her,  into  which  she  was  assisted,  and  they  departed.  The 
carrying  power  of  the  expedition  was  now  reduced  to  fourteen 
donkeys  and  one  horse  ; the  donkeys  being  all  in  a very  bad 
state,  with  sores  on  their  backs  which  the  birds  kept  continually 
raw,  Baker  had  to  hire  forty  porters.  They  went  round  the 
mountain  on  this  occasion,  and  after  six  days’  miserable  inarch 
in  pouring  rain,  with  fearful  thunder-storms,  they  reached  OblK), 
and  found  their  old  friend  Katchiba — the  sorcerer-chief — “the 
best  man,”  says  Baker,  “ I ever  met  in  Africa.” 

For  the  next  few  months  Baker  remained  at  Obbo,  and  his 
position  was  not  enviable.  The  Turks  had  utterly  ruined  the 
country,  exactly  in  his  line  of  march,  and  this  he  knew  would 
make  it  difficult  for  him  in  regard  to  the  feeling  of  the  popula- 
tion. His  last  hofse  died,  and  one  by  one  all  his  asses,  so  that 
he  was  left  without  a single  beast  of  burden.  To  crown  all, 
lie  and  his  wife  were  both  prostrated  with  fever,  and  so  ill  that 
neither  could  rise  to  assist  the  other.  Rats  overran  the 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


305 


wretched  tent  in  which  they  lay,  and  there,  while  thousands  of 
white  ants  crawled  over  their  bodies,  they  knew  that  all  their 
people,  with  the  exception  of  a noble  boy  named  Saat  and 
three  men  who  were  faithful,  heartily  wished  them  dead  and 
out  of  the  way.  What  it  is  to  be  in  such  a condition  in  a sav- 
age country,  it  is  not  easy  to  imagine.  But,  although  there  was 
a mixture  of  emotions,  while  these  were  their  circumstances, 
there  seems  to  have  been  on  the  part  of  the  travellers  no  re- 
lenting or  desire  to  abandon  their  enterprise.  The  old  chief 
came  to  see  them,  and  did  what  he  could  for  them  profession- 
ally. Sorcerer  as  he  was,  he  performed  an  enchantment  for 
them,  and  no  doubt  took  to  himself  and  it  the  credit  which  be- 
longed to  quinine.  lie  complained  to  them,  in  doleful  terms, 
of  the  ruin  which  the  White  Nile  traders  were  working  in  the 
country. 

During  this  season  of  detention  at  Obbo,  Baker  obtained 
further  information  from  a native  woman  about  Magungo. 
Kamrasi,  in  whose  country  the  lake  is,  had  sent  this  woman, 
two  years  before,  as  a spy  among  the  traders.  She  was  in- 
structed to  tempt  them  to  the  country  if  their  appearance  was 
favorable  ; but  to  return  with  a report  if  they  seemed  to  be  dan- 
gerous. She  arrived  at  Debono’s  station,  Faloro,  and  was  there 
immediately  captured  and  sold  as  a slave,  and  was  again  sold 
to  the  man  who  owned  her  at  present.  Magungo,  she  said,  was 
only  four  days’  hard  walking  from  Faloro,  and  was  half-way 
between  that  place  and  Kamrasi’s  capital.  The  lake  she  de- 
scribed as  a white  sheet,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  de- 
clared that  “ if  you  put  a water-jar  on  the  shore,  the  water 
would  run  up,  break  it,  and  carry  it  away.”  By  such  terms  she 
meant  to  convey  the  idea  that  there  were  high  waves.  Baker 
laid  his  plans  in  accordance  with  this  information,  which  agreed 
with  his  previous  knowledge  and  confirmed  it.  lie  had  been 
already  within  ten  days’  march  of  the  lake  when  at  Slioggo,  in 
May  ; but  it  would  not  be  possible  to  march  straight  for  it,  in- 
asmuch as  the  country  through  which  he  would  have  to  pass 
was  in  possession  of  Debono’s  people,  and  the  customs  of  the 
White  Nile  prevented  Ibrahim  from  entering  it,  while  to  go 
by  himself  was  impossible.  lie  therefore  meant  to  persuade 
Ibrahim  to  go  with  him  to  Kamrasi’s  country,  Unyoro,  and 
there  begin  a fair  and  honest  traffic  for  ivory  with  the  king. 
If  he  could  bring  Kamrasi  and  Ibrahim  together,  Koorshid, 
Ibrahim’s  master,  would,  according  to  the  Waite  Nile  usages, 
become  sole  trader  to  that  part  of  the  country.  Was  the  lake 
a source  of  the  Nile,  having  a navigable  outlet  ? If  so,  it  was 
20 


306 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


in  Kamrasi’s  dominions ; and  lie  could  have  ivory  carried  to 
any  depot  on  the  lake  side  which  might  be  agreed  on,  and 
transported  down  the  Nile  as  far  as  the  river  proved  navigable, 
and  then  taken  to  Gondokoro,  not  more  than  ninety  miles. 
Again,  Unyoro  was  on  the  “ clothing  boundary.”  From  the 
Shillook  country,  in  lat.  10°,  to  Obbo,  lat.  4°,  none  of  the  na- 
tives wear  any  clothing ; but  from  Unyoro  down  to  Zanzibar 
they  are  all  clothed.  Here  a most  profitable  business  might  be 
done  by  buying  up  ivory,  and,  by  means  of  coasting  craft  on 
the  lake,  introducing  European  goods  into  the  very  heart  of 
Africa.  The  difficulty  would  be  to  get  a sufficient  number  of 
armed  men  to  accompany  the  traders  without  the  inducements 
of  slave-hunting  and  cattle-stealing. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Baker  continued  for  months  to  drag  on  a mis- 
erable existence  at  Obbo.  They  were  both  worn  by  fever,  their 
quinine  was  exhausted,  and  every  beast  of  burden  dead ; but 
their  old  friend  Katchiba  remained  true  to  them,  and  Baker’s 
influence  with  the  Turks,  having  steadily  grown  during  the 
nine  months  he  had  been  with  them,  was  now  paramount,  lie 
had  been  everything  to  them,  their  surgeon  and  physician,  had 
lent  them  nearly  everything  they  had  asked  for,  had  mended 
their  guns,  and  quietly  helped  their  helplessness,  till  they  ex- 
claimed, “ What  shall  we  do  when  the. So  war  [traveller]  leaves 
the  country  ? ” Ibrahim  himself  was  ready  to  assist  him  in 
every  way.  Baker  pointed  out  to  him  that  his  expedition  had 
been  unsuccessful  in  a large  measure  up  to  this  time,  and  that 
he  would  obtain  little  credit  from  his  master,  Koorsliid,  when 
he  returned  to  Gondokoro,  if  he  had  no  more  than  the  pitiful 
lot  of  ivory  which  he  had  already  got.  He  guaranteed  him 
one  hundred  cantars  (ten  thousand  pounds)  of  ivory,  if  he  would 
push  on  with  him  at  all  hazards,  and  obtain  native  porters  for 
him  at  Shooa,  and  would  consider  Unyoro  as  his  (Mr.  Baker’s) 
country,  and  refrain  from  outrages  on  the  natives.  Ibrahim 
was  amenable  to  reason,  and  yielded,  notwithstanding  the  un- 
willingness of  his  men.  But  all  this  was  gained  only  by  de- 
grees. The  main  points,  however,  were  settled,  and  on  the  5th 
of  January,  1864,  they  started  on  the  long-desired  journey. 
The  greater  part  of  the  goods  of  the  travellers  was  left  behind, 
in  depot,  and  Ibrahim  left  forty-five  men.  Baker  was  still 
suffering  from  fever,  and  took  his  last  dose  of  precious  quinine 
before  beginning  his  journey. 

Before  starting  they  had  obtained  some  bullocks  to  supply 
the  places  of  the  animals  which  they  had  lost,  neither  of  the 
travellers  being  lit  for  much  fatigue.  Baker’s  soon  bolted  into 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


307 


the  bush,  and  was  never  more  seen,  and  he  was  compelled  to 
try  walking.  Mrs.  Baker’s  kicked  and  threw  her,  and  hurt  her 
severely.  Ibrahim,  always  polite  and  obliging,  gave  her 
another,  and  Mr.  Baker  bought  a new  one,  after  having  strug- 
gled on  in  a walk  of  six-and-twenty  miles.  They  passed  the 
Attabi,  and  were  now  in  a new  country.  In  three  days  they  were 
on  the  banks  of  the  Asua,  the  river  whose  state  of  flood  had 
delayed  them  so  long.  It  was  now  low,  and  they  crossed  it 
without  difficulty.  The  Turks,  aware  that  they  were  not  yet 
in  the  country  in  respect  to  which  they  had  promised  to  abstain 
from  outrage,  made  a raid  on  a Madi  village,  and  brought  back 
a few  hundred  head  of  cattle,  and  some  slaves,  having  lost  their 
standard-bearer.  On  the  13th  of  January  they  reached  Sliooa, 
which,  by  the  customs  of  the  traders,  belonged  to  Debono; 
but  Ibrahim,  in  disregard  of  these,  appropriated  it,  and  made 
it  a depot.  Kamrasi  was  known  here,  and  the  Obbo  porters 
absconded  as  soon  as  they  discovered  that  the  party  was  go- 
ing to  his  country.  There  had  been  -war  in  Kamrasi’s  country, 
and  there  were  other  discouragements,  but  Baker  resolved  to 
press  on.  They  left  Sliooa  on  the  18th  of  January.  The  land- 
scape was  very  beautiful. — Coming  to  the  village  of  Fatiko, 
they  found  it  surrounded  with  lofty  and  bold  granite  cliffs,  on 
the  summits  of  which  the  natives  “were  perched  like  ravens.” 
They  here,  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Gondokoro,  crossed 
the  track  of  Speke,  who  came  straight  from  Karuma.  This  is 
the  Koki  in  Gani  of  Speke.  The  perching  of  the  natives  on 
the  rocks  seems  to  have  struck  them  both.  “ Knots  of  naked 
men,”  says  Speke,  “ perched  like  monkeys  on  the  rocks,  await- 
ing our  approach.” 

The  natives  were  very  friendly,  but  so  troublesome  in  their 
ceremonies  of  introduction  and  intercourse,  that  the  travellers 
continued  their  journey,  and,  descending  the  hill,  were  at  once 
in  a region  of  prairies  and  swamps.  Crossing  the  Un-y-ame, 
they  marched  two  days  through  the  long  grass,  and  at  length 
set  it  on  fire  before  a north-wind,  and  kept  in  the  tracks  of  the 
fire.  Baker  suspected  that  their  guide  was  deceiving  them, 
and  leading  them  too  far  to  the  west,  toward  the  island  of  Ri 
onga,  and  his  suspicion  proved  to  be  true.  The  march  became 
extremely  fatiguing,  on  account  of  the  swamps ; but  on  the 
fourth  day  they  entered  a magnificent  forest,  and,  gaining  an 
elevation  in  it,  saw  a cloud  of  fog  hanging  over  a distant  val- 
ley, which  betokened  the  presence  of  the  noble  stream  which 
joins  the  two  lakes. 

The  river  was  reached  on  January  22d  at  a point  about  one 


308 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant  from  the  Victoria  Lake  of 
Speke,  and  sixty  from  the  Luta  N’Zige  Lake,  but  Mr.  Baker 
was  not  aware  of  the  fact.  The  height  of  the  river  above  the 
sea  was  ascertained  to  be  3,806  feet.  They  were  in  Rionga’s 
country  after  all ; and  one  of  the  first  persons  they  saw  was 
Rionga’s  brother.  The  natives  would  have  nothing  to  do  with 
them,  and  told  them  they  might  go  to  Kamrasi  if  they  chose. 
The)7  accordingly  headed  up  the  river  towards  the  Karuma 
Falls  of  Speke,  intending  there  to  cross  to  the  south  side.  The 
distance  was  about  fifteen  miles.  They  had  a picturesque  march 
through  an  open  forest,  with  the  river,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  wide,  near  by,  roaring  and  foaming  in  many  cascades, 
broken  at  certain  parts  with  rocky  islands,  on  which  were  vil- 
lages and  plantain  groves ; and  the  same  day  reached  the  falls 
at  the  village  of  Atada,  above  the  ferry.  Kamrasi’s  people 
approached  in  a canoe,  through  the  roar  of  the  falls,  and  were 
told  that  Speke’s  brother  had  arrived,  bringing  presents  to 
Kamrasi.  After  some  little  hesitation,  he  was  requested  to 
show  himself.  Baker  therefore  dressed  himself  as  he  knew 
Speke  did,  and  stood,  a solitary  gray  figure,  on  the  summit 
of  a lofty  and  perpendicular  pinnacle  of  rock,  opposite  the 
crowd  of  people  who  swarmed  thickly  upon  the  other  side  of 
the  river.  When  joined  by  the  interpreter,  he  explained  that 
his  wife,  an  English  lady,  had  come  also,  to  thank  Kamrasi 
for  his  kind  treatment  of  Speke  and  Grant.  A canoe  was  now 
sent  across,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Baker  went  over  in  it  alone. 
The  likeness  between  Baker  and  Speke  was  sufficiently  great 
to  confirm  his  claim.  The  people  welcomed  him  in  a frantic 
dance,  pretending  to  attack  and  kill  him,  thrusting  their  lances 
close  to  his  face,  and  so  giving  vent  to  the  exuberance  of  their 
joy.  He  gave  each  of  the  principal  men  a bead  necklace,  and 
requested  that  there  should  be  no  delay  in  his  presenta- 
tion to  Kamrasi,  as  Speke  had  to  wait  for  fifteeen  days. 
They  at  once  told  him  of  a villanous  raid,  of  which  he  knew, 
which  Debono’s  people  had  made  with  the  assistance  of  Rionga, 
and  intimated  that  no  stranger  was  to  be  ferried  over,  on  pain 
of  death  to  those  who  sanctioned  and  performed  the  service. 
He  was  further  informed  that  on  the  appearance  of  the  party, 
a messenger  had  been  sent  to  M’rooli  to  Kamrasi,  which  was 
three  days’  march,  and  that  until  an  answer  was  returned, 
nothing  could  be  done.  All  efforts  to  move  these  men  were 
unavailing.  Baker  showed  some  magnificent  presents,  and 
threatened  to  depart.  The  wretched  headman  assuring  him 
that  Kamrasi  would  cut  his  (the  headman’s)  throat  if  Mr.  Baker 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


309 


took  his  presents  away,  and  would  probably  do  the  same  thing 
if  lie  ferried  him  over,  begged  him  to  stay  where  lie  was, 
which  was  impossible,  there  being  nothing  to  eat  and  five  days 
of  desert  behind  him  and  his  party.  At  last  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Baker,  with  only  Ibrahim  (who  went  disguised  as  their  servant), 
and  two  others,  were  ferried  over  with  all  the  presents.  But 
it  was  many  days  before  Kamrasi  could  be  induced  to  act. 
He  was  sore  on  account  of  the  recollection  of  the  atrocities  of 
Debono’s  desperadoes,  and  unwilling  to  have  intercourse  with 
strangers.  At  the  end,  cupidity  prevailed,  and  the  whole 
party  were  ferried  across.  This  delay  was  all  the  more  vexa- 
tious, as  it  was  now  the  30th  of  January  ; the  rainy  season 
would  begin  next  month  in  the  high-lands  of  Obbo,  and  if  the 
Asua  should  flood,  they  were  hopelessly  cut  off  from  Gondo- 
koro. 

The  people  here  were  superior  to  the  naked  savages  of 
Latooka  and  Obbo.  They  w’ere  modest  and  well  clothed ; 
their  pottery  was  of  a higher  order ; and  they  were  good  black- 
smiths. 

At  last  the  invitation  from  Kamrasi  arrived,  and  proceeding 
by  slow  marches  they  arrived  at  his  capital  on  February  10th. 
Kamrasi,  the  king  is,  as  we  have  already  seen,  a prying,  cowardly, 
avaricious  savage,  and  he  treated  Baker  just  as  he  treated  Speke 
and  Grant.  Ilis  policy  with  both  parties  was  to  procrastinate, 
and  keep  them  waiting  till  he  had  got  out  of  them  everything 
which  he  fancied  or  supposed  to  be  w’ortli  having.  He  is  a 
inau  who  is  utterly  false  in  all  he  does.  On  this  occasion  it 
was  his  odd  fancy  to  make  his  brother  personate  him.  Mr. 
Baker  had  many  fierce  interviews  with  the  king,  as  he  sup- 
posed, but  he  never  saw  the  real  man  at  all,  until  the  last  terri- 
ble end,  when  hope  of  more  spoil  was  vain,  and  Baker  had  also 
on  his  side  ceased  to  expect  that  he  should  be  able  to  depart 
with  his  life.  This  imitation  Kamrasi  had  made  demand  after 
demand  upon  Baker,  and  interposed  obstruction  after  obstruc- 
tion in  the  way  of  his  plan  of  reaching  the  Lake.  The  climax  of 
his  iusolehce  was  reached  at  a meeting  between  him  and  Baker, 
ostensibly  to  arrange  the  details  of  the  journey,  but  really  with 
the  intention  on  his  part  of  amusing  himself  with  his  guest’s 
impatience.  We  will  let  Baker  describe  the  incident  in  his 
own  words : 

“ I now  requested  Kamrasi  to  allow  us  to  leave,  as  we  had 
not  an  hour  to  lose.  In  the  coolest  manner  he  replied,  ‘ 1 will 
send  you  to  the  lake  and  to  Shooa,  as  I have  promised  ; but, 
you  must  leave  your  wife  with  me  ! ’ 


310 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


“ At  that  moment  we  were  surrounded  by  a great  number 
of  natives,  and  my  suspicions  of  treachery  at  having  been  led 
across  the  Kafoor  River  appeared  confirmed  by  this  insolent 
demand.  If  this  were  to  be  the  end  of  the  expedition,  I re- 
solved that  it  should  also  be  the  end  of  Kamrasi,  and,  drawing 
my  revolver  quietly,  I held  it  within  two  feet  of  his  chest,  and 
looking  at  him  with  undisguised  contempt,  I told  him  that  if  I 
touched  the  trigger,  not  all  his  men  could  save  him  : and  that 
if  he  dared  to  repeat  the  insult  I would  shoot  him  on  the  spot. 
At  the  same  time  I explained  to  him  that  in  my  country 
such  insolence  would  entail  bloodshed,  and  that  I looked  upon 
him  as  an  ignorant  ox  who  knew  no  better,  and  that  this  excuse 
alone  could  save  him.  My  wife,  naturally  indignant,  had  risen 
from  her  seat,  and,  maddened  with  the  excitement  of  the  moment, 
she  made  him  a little  speech  in  Arabic  (not  a word  of  which 
he  understood),  with  a countenance  almost  as  amiable  as  the 
head  of  Medusa.  Altogether  the  raise  en  scene  utterly  aston- 
ished him  ; the  woman,  Bacheeta,  although  savage,  had  appro- 
priated the  insult  to  her  mistress,  and  she  also  fearlessly  let 
fly  at  Kamrasi,  translating  as  nearly  as  she  could  the  compli- 
mentary address  that  ‘Medusa’  had  just  delivered. 

“ Whether  this  little  coup  de  thedtre  had  so  impressed  Kamrasi 
with  British  female  independence  that  he  wished  to  be  off  his 
bargain,  I cannot  say,  but  with  an  air  of  complete  astonish- 
ment, he  said,  ‘ Don’t  be  angry ! I had  no  intention  of  offend- 
ing you  by  asking  for  your  wife ; I will  give  you  a wife,  if  you 
want  one,  and  I thought  you  might  have  no  objection  to  give  me 
yours ; it  is  m37  custom  to  give  my  visitors  pretty  wives,  and  I 
thought  you  might  exchange.  Don’t  make  a fuss  about  it ; if 
you  don’t  like  it,  there’s  an  end  of  it ; I will  never  mentio7i  it 
again.’  This  very  practical  apology  I received  very  sternly, > 
and  merely  insisted  upon  starting.  He  seemed  rather  confused 
at  having  committed  himself,  and  to  make  amends  he  called 
his  people  and  ordered  them  to  carry  our  loads.  His  men  or- 
dered a number  of  women  who  had  assembled  out  of  curiosity, 
to  shoulder  the  luggage  and  carry  it  to  the  next  village,  where 
they  would  be  relieved.  I assisted  my  wife  upon  her  ox,  and 
with  a very  cold  adieu  to  Kamrasi,  I turned  my  back  most 
gladly  on  M’rooli.” 

After  leaving  M’rooli,  the  party  struck  towards  the  Kafoor 
River,  and  crossed  the  head  of  the  swamp  which  had  prevented 
them  from  striking  south-west,  and  caused  them  to  go  more 
southerly.  Six  hundred  yelling  natives  accompanied  them  as 
an  escort,  and  for  the  first  day  at  least,  as  they  afterwards 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


311 


found,  Ivamrasi  himself  was  in  the  crowd,  that  he  might  see 
without  being  seen.  Both  Baker  and  his  wife  were  still  suffer- 
ing from  fever  and  its  effects  ; they  had  had  great  difficulty  in 
finding  porters,  and  the  prospect  before  them  was  most  depress- 
ing and  discouraging.  Matters  were  very  bad,  but  they  were 
soon  to  become  worse.  On  the  fourth  day  they  came  to  the 
River  Kafoor,  which,  bending  south,  they  were  obliged  to  cross. 
This  could  be  done  only  in  a very  curious  way.  The  whole 
stream  was  matted  over  with  a carpet  of  floating  weeds,  so 
strong  and  so  thick,  that  it  was  sufficient  to  bear  the  weight  of 
a man  if  he  ran  quickly.  The  width  was  about  thirty  yards. 
Baker  started,  begging  his  wife  to  follow  him  rapidly,  keep- 
ing exactly  in  his  footsteps.  When  he  was  half-way  across,  he 
turned  to  see  why  she  was  not  with  him,  and,  to  his  horror, 
saw  her  standing  in  one  place,  and  sinking  through  the  weeds, 
her  face  distorted  and  purple,  and  almost  at  the  moment  of  his 
catching  sight  of  her,  she  fell  headlong  down  with  a sunstroke. 
In  the  desperation  of  the  moment,  he  and  several  of  his  men 
seized  her,  and  dragged  her  across,  sinking  in  the  weeds  up  to 
their  waists,  and  just  keeping  her  head  above  water.  She  lay 
perfectly  insensible,  as  though  dead,  with  clenched  hands  and  set 
teeth,  all  efforts  at  restoring  animation  being  for  a time  utterly 
useless.  When  at  length  these  had  succeeded,  she  was  gently 
borne  forward  like  a corpse — the  rattle  was  in  her  throat,  and 
the  end  seemed  to  be  very  near.  Three  days  of  insensibility 
were  followed  by  seven  more  of  brain-fever  and  delirium. 
Preparations  were  made  for  the  worst,  which  it  was  believed 
had  actually  come;  but  the  spark  of  life  was  not  fully  extin- 
guished, and  it  began  to  brighten,  and  by  and  by  burnt  more 
steadily.  It  was  now  possible  to  move,  and  at  the  close  of  the 
sixteenth  day  from  M’rooli  they  were  at  the  village  of  Parkani, 
one  hundred  miles  on  a straight  line  from  M’rooli;  and  they 
began  to  hope  once  more  that  the  object  of  these  two  years’ 
weary  wanderings  was  close  at  hand. 

They  had  not  supposed,  here,  that  it  wras  actually  within  one 
march  ; yet  such  was  actually  the  case.  On  the  day  before 
they  arrived  at  Parkani,  Baker  had  observed,  at  a great  distance 
to  the  north-west  of  their  course,  a range  of  very  lofty  moun- 
tains. He  fancied  that  the  lake  must  lie  on  the  other  side  of 
this  range,  but  now  he  w’as  informed  that  these  mountains 
were  the  western  boundary  of  the  N’Zige,  and  that  if  he  started 
early  he  might  reach  it  by  noon.  Accordingly  on  the  14th  of 
March,  1864,  starting  early,  he,  “ the  first  European  who  had 
ever  seen  it,”  looked  on  this  magnificent  body  of  water. 


312 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


“ It  is  impossible,”  be  says,  “ to  describe  the  triumph  of  that 
moment ; — here  was  the  reward  for  all  our  labor — for  the  years 
of  tenacity  with  which  we  had  toiled  through  Africa.  Eng- 
land had  won  the  sources  of  the  Nile ! Long  before  I reached 
this  spot,  I had  arranged  to  give  three  cheers  with  all  our  men 
in  English  style  in  honor  of  the  discovery,  but  now’  that  I 
looked  down  upon  the  great  inland  sea  lying  nestled  in  the 
very  heart  of  Africa,  and  thought  how  vainly  mankind  had 
sought  these  sources  throughout  so  many  ages,  and  reflected 
that  I had  been  the  humble  instrument  permitted  to  unravel 
this  portion  of  the  great  mystery  when  so  many  greater  than  I 
had  failed,  I felt  too  serious  to  vent  my  feelings  in  vain  cheers 
for  victory,  and  I sincerely  thanked  God  for  having  guided  and 
supported  us  through  all  dangers  to  the  good  end.  I was  about 
1,500  feet  above  the  lake,  and  I looked  down  from  the  steep 
granite  cliff  upon  those  welcome  waters — upon  that  vast  reser- 
voir which  nourished  Egypt  and  brought  fertility  where  all  w as 
wilderness — upon  that  great  source  so  long  hidden  from  man- 
kind ; that  source  of  bounty  and  of  blessings  to  millions  of 
human  beings ; and  as  one  of  the  greatest  objects  in  nature,  I 
determined  to  honor  it  with  a great  name.  As  an  imperishable 
memorial  of  one  loved  and  mourned  by  our  gracious  Queen 
and  deplored  by  every  Englishman,  I called  this  great  lake 
the  ‘Albert  Nyanza.’  The  Victoria  and  the  Albert  lakes  are  the 
two  sources  of  the  Nile.”  He  subsequenty  procured  the  means, 
and  gave  his  men  a feast  in  honor  of  the  discovery,  and  ingrati- 
tude for  his  wife’s  recovery. 

Baker  on  the  occasion  of  his  first  sighting  the  water  stood  on 
a point  1,500  feet  above  it.  Opposite  to  him,  the  lake  wras 
about  sixty  miles  broad,  but  to  the  south  and  south-west  lay  a 
boundless  horizon  like  the  ocean.  Immediately  on  the  other 
side  rose  a grand  range  of  mountains,  some  of  them  seven  thou- 
sand feet  high,  and  down  two  streams  in  their  rifts  there 
streamed  great  waterfalls,  visible  even  at  that  vast  distance,  to 
add  their  contributions  to  the  fresh-water  ocean.  This,  then, 
was  the  Luta  N’Zige,  the  lake  of  the  dead  locusts,  the  reservoir 
of  the  Nile.  Mrs.  Baker,  utterly  worn  out  with  sickness,  was 
assisted  with  difficulty  to  reach  this  first  point  of  discovery. 
The  ascent  was  too  steep  for  cattle,  but  leaning  on  her  hus- 
band’s shoulder  she  accomplished  it,  and  they  both  descended 
to  the  shore.  Wild  waves  were  sweeping  over  the  surface  of 
the  w’ater,  and  bursting  at  their  feet  upon  the  white  shingly 
beach.  In  his  enthusiasm,  Baker  dashed  in  headlong,  and  drank 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


313 


deep  of  the  pure,  fresh  element  which  in  so  vast  a body  was 
now  actually  before  their  eyes. 

Close  by  was  the  fishing  village  of  Vacovia  (in  lat  1°  15'  N.), 
round  whose  huts  stood  beautifully  made  harpoons,  hooks,  and 
lines  used  for  taking  not  only  the  enormous  fish  of  200  lbs. 
weight  or  more  which  abound  in  the  lake,  but  also  the  hippo- 
potamus and  the  crocodile,  which  are  very  numerous.  The 
traveller  was  delayed  here  eight  days  for  want  of  the  boats 
which  had  been  ordered  for  him  by  Kamrasi.  The  situation 
was  very  unhealthy,  but  he  was  able  to  explore  a little,  and  ob- 
tained much  information  about  the  lake  from  the  headman  of 
the  village.  The  lake  is  known  to  extend  as  far  south  as 
Utumbi,  to  a position  exactly  the  same  as  the  Lake  Rusisi  of 
Speke.  Tins  is  in  the  country  of  Karagwe,  and  the  King  Ru- 
manika  was  in  the  habit  of  sending  ivory-hunting- parties  to 
this  point,  which  is  close  to  Mount  M’Fumbiro.  This  gives 
the  lake  a length  of  about  300  miles  in  a south-western  direc- 
tion. It  then  turns  to  the  west,  and  its  extent  iu  that  direc- 
tion is  unknown.  It  appears  from  this  that  in  length  it  is  at 
least  the  second  or  third  body  of  fresh  water  in  the  world,  if  a 
better  knowledge  of  it  do  not,  indeed,  prove  it  to  be  the  first. 
It  is  remarkable  that  the  necessity  of  the  existence  of  some 
such  reservoir  was  not  asserted  before.  Such  a body  of  water 
is  absolutely  required  to  force  a stream  such  as  the  Nile  to  the 
sea,  a distance  of  2,500  miles,  with  scarcely  a perennial  afflu- 
ent of  any  permanent  importance,  if  we  except  the  Blue  Nile, 
which  is  insignificant  in  the  summer.  At  the  north-east  cor- 
ner, at  Magungo,  the  river  which  connects  it  with  Speke’s  Vic- 
toria N’Yanza,  and  which  passes  Kamrasi’s  and  the  Karuma 
Falls,  enters  the  lake.  Thirty  miles  north  the  great  Nile  itself 
flows  out  of  it  towards  the  sea. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  a fortnight’s  voyage  on 
the  lake.  Two  canoes  were  selected, — the  one  twenty-six  and 
the  other  thirty-two  feet  long,  both  made  of  single  logs.  A 
cabin  uras  constructed  in  the  smaller  of  these,  and  they  started. 
The  scenery  was  most  beautiful.  Sometimes  the  mountains 
to  the  west  were  quite  invisible,  and  the  canoes  usually  kept 
within  a hundred  yards  of  the  shore.  At  one  time  the  cliffs 
would  recede,  and  leave  a meadow  more  or  less  broad  at  their 
base ; at  another  the  rocks  would  go  right  down  into  deep 
water;  and,  again,  a grand  mass  of  gneiss  and  granite,  1,100 
feet  high,  would  present  itself  feathered  with  beautiful  ever- 
greens and  giant  euphorbia,  with  every  runnel  and  rivulet 
in  its  clefts  fringed  with  graceful  wild  date-trees.  Hippopot- 


314 


SIB  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


ami  lazily  floated  about ; and  crocodiles,  alarmed  by  the  canoe, 
would  rush  quickly  out  of  the  bushes  into  the  water.  On  one 
occasion  Baker  killed  one  of  them  with  his  rifle,  and  it  sank  in 
eight  feet  of  water ; but  the  water  was  so  beautifully  transpa- 
rent that  it  could  be  seen  plainly  lying  at  the  bottom  bleed- 
ing. They  once  saw  an  elephant  come  down  out  of  the  forest 
to  bathe.  At  another  time,  fourteen  of  those  majestic  animals 
were  seen  disporting  themselves  in  a sandy  bay,  throwing  jets 
of  water  in  all  directions.  On  another  occasion  they  passed  a 
waterfall,  1,000  feet  high,  made  by  the  river  Kaiigiri,  which 
rises  in  the  swamp  which  turned  them  out  of  their  way  on 
leaving  H’rooli. 

Such  were  the  sights  of  their  voyage,  but  at  the  same  time, 
it  was  not  in  all  respects  a pleasant  one.  They  were  both  still 
suffering  from  fever,  and  they  were  cramped  together  in  this 
narrow  boat,  under  a low  awning  of  bullock’s  mile.  At  night 
they  camped  on  the  shore.  Besides,  the  weather  was  bad.  At 
one  o’clock  every  day  a violent  tornado  lashed  the  lake  into  fury, 
and  placed  their  craft  in  imminent  danger.  In  the  course  of 
their  sailing  explorations,  they  were  nearly  lost  by  this  means, 
having  been  caught  by  the  gale  four  miles  from  land,  and  obliged 
to  run  before  it,  being  nearly  swamped  at  times  by  the  heavi- 
ness of  the  swell.  They  managed  to  reach  the  shore,  however, 
but  their  boat  was  overturned  on  the  beach,  and  all  the  live- 
stock was  drowned ; and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  they  re- 
covered their  boat.  After  thirteen  days,  when  they  had  rowed 
for  ninety  miles,  the  lake  began  to  contract,  and  vast  reed-beds 
extended  from  the  shore  to  tne  distance  of  a mile,  there  being 
a floating  vegetation  similar  to  that  of  the  bridge  which  they 
were  crossiug  when  Mrs.  Baker  was  struck  down.  Preferring 
to  find  a gap  in  this  false  shore  to  the  ordinary  method  of  walk- 
ing over  it,  he  coasted  the  floating  reeds  for  a mile,  and  came 
to  a broad  still  channel,  bounded  with  reeds  on  both  sides. 
This  was  the  embouchure  of  the  Victoria  Nile — the  river  which 
connects  the  Albert  with  the  Victoria  N’Yauza.  Our  informa- 
tion respecting  this  river  warrants  our  concluding  that  the  length 
of  its  course  is  about  250  miles.  It  was  seen  for  the  first  fifty 
miles  of  its  course,  from  the  Ripon  Falls  to  Nyamionjo,  by 
Speke,  in  August,  1S62.  The  next  sixty  miles  have  not  yet 
been  verified.  From  twenty  miles  above  Kamrasi’s  to  fifteen 
miles  below  the  Karuma  Falls,  a distance  of  ninety  miles,  it  is 
tolerably  known  by  Speke  and  Baker.  The  next  forty  miles  arc 
a succession  of  cataracts.  The  last  few  miles,  from  the  Murchi- 
6on  Falls  to  the  Great  New  Lake,  have  been  explored  by  Baker, 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


315 


bo  that  of  the  supposed  250  miles  of  the  course  of  the  Victoria 
Nile,  only  about  50  require  verifying.  And  the  next  great 
question  in  regard  to  the  Albert  N’Yanza  will  be — has  it  not 
other  great  affluents  besides  this  one,  and,  if  so,  what  and 
where  are  they  ? That  many  considerable  affluents  flow  into 
the  Albert  Lake  there  is  no  doubt.  The  two  waterfalls  seen  by 
telescope  upon  the  western  shore  from  the  Blue  Mountains 
must  bo  most  important  streams,  or  they  could  not  be  distin- 
guished at  so  great  a distance  as  fifty  or  sixty  miles,  but  the 
natives  all  declared  that  there  were  many  streams,  varying  in 
size,  which  descended  the  mountains  upon  all  sides  into  the 
general  reservoir. 

They  found  the  month  of  the  Victoria  Nile,  still  water,  and 
about  half  a mile  wide.  The  same  river  had  been  seen  at 
Karuma,  boiling  and  tearing  along  a rocky  course,  and  now  it 
entered  the  lake  as  still  water!  They  had  heard  voices  for 
some  time  on  the  other  side  of  the  rushes,  and  they  now  found 
a number  of  natives  who  had  arrived  to  meet  them  with  the 
chief  of  Magungo,  and  their  own  guide  Rabonga,  who  had  been 
sent  in  advance  with  the  riding-oxen  from  Vacovia.  The  water 
was  very  shallow,  and  the  natives  rushed  in  and  dragged  the 
canoes  over  the  mud  to  the  land.  The  travellers  had  been  so 
entirely  hidden  on  the  lake  on  the  other  side  of  the  reed-bank, 
that  they  had  not  been  able  to  see  the  eastern  or  Magungo  shore, 
and  they  now  found  themselves  in  a delightful  spot  under  the 
shade  of  several  enormous  trees,  on  firm  sandy  and  rocky 
ground,  while  the  country  rose  in  a rapid  incline  to  the  town 
of  Magungo,  about  a mile  distant,  on  an  elevated  ridge. 

They  found  the  riding-oxen  in  good  order,  and  were  in- 
vited to  wait  under  a tree  till  the  presents  of  the  headman 
should  be  delivered.  By  and  by  a number  of  people  arrived 
from  the  village,  bringing  a goat,  fowls,  eggs,  sour  milk,  and 
fresh  butter.  The  chief  was  delighted  with  a present  of  a 
quantity  of -heads;  and  they  were  led  up  the  hill  towards  Ma- 
gungo. The  day  was  beautifully  clear.  The  soil  was  sandy 
and  poor ; but  the  road  was  clean  and  hard ; and,  after  the 
many  days’  boating,  they  enjoyed  the  walk,  as  well  as  the 
splendid  view  that  lay  before  them  when  they  arrived  at  Ma- 
gungo, and  looked  back  upon  the  lake.  They  were  now  250 
feet  above  the  water-level.  The  general  elevation  of  the  coun- 
try seemed  to  be  about  500  feet,  for  five  or  six  nfiiles,  after 
which  it  descended  by  undulations.  The  mountains  on  the 
Mallegga  side,  with  the  lake  in  the  foreground,  were  the  most 
prominent  objects,  and  formed  the  western  boundary.  There 


316 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


appeared  a gap  in  the  range,  a few  miles  to  the  north,  and  the 
lake  continued  to  the  west,  but  much  contracted,  while  the 
mountain  range  on  the  northern  side  of  the  gap  proceeded  to 
the  north-east.  Due  north  and  north-east  the  country  was  a 
dead  flat,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  was  an  expanse  of 
bright  green  reeds  marking  the  course  of  the  Nile  as  it  made 
its  exit  from  the  lake.  The  sheet  of  water  at  Magungo  was 
about  seventeen  miles  in  width,  and  continued  in  a long  strip 
or  tail  to  the  north,  until  it  was  lost  in  the  flat  valley  of  green 
rushes.  The  natives  said  that  canoe3  could  navigate  the  Nile 
from  the  lake  to  the  Madi  country — there  being  no  cataracts 
for  a long  distance,  but  that  both  the  Madi  and  Koslii  were 
hostile,  and  that  the  current  in  the  river  was  so  strong  that  if 
the  canoe  should  descend  from  the  lake,  it  could  not  return 
without  many  rowers.  They  pointed  out  the  country  of  the 
Koslii  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile,  at  its  exit  from  the  lake  ; 
and  it  included  the  mountains  that  bordered  the  river.  The 
small  country,  M’Caroli,  joined  Mallegga,  and  continued  to  the 
west,  towards  the  Makkarika.  The  men  here  positively  refused 
to  take  Baker  down  the  Nile  to  the  Madi,  as  the}'  said  the  peo- 
ple were  their  enemies,  and  would  kill  them  on  their  return 
when  he  would  not  be  with  them. 

The  exit  of  the  Nile  from  the  lake  was  plain  enough,  at  a 
distance  of  within  eighteen  miles  of  Magungo.  Baker  had  a 
very  strong  desire  to  descend  the  Nile  in  canoes  from  its  exit 
with  his  own  men  as  boatmen,  and  thus  in  a short  time  to  reach 
the  cataracts  in  the  Madi  country  ; there  to  forsake  the  canoes 
and  all  his  baggage,  and  to  march  direct  to  Gondokoro  with 
only  his  guns  and  ammunition.  He  knew  from  native  report 
that  the  Nile  was  navigable  as  far  as  the  Madi  country  to 
about  Miani’s  tree,  which  Speke  had  laid  down  by  astronomical 
observation  in  lat.  3°  34'.  This  would  be  only  seven  days’ 
march  from  Gondokoro,  and  by  such  a direct  course  he  esti- 
mated that  he  should  be  sure  to  arrive  in  time  for  the  boats 
to  Khartoom.  But  he  had  promised  Speke  that  he  would 
explore  most  thoroughly  the  doubtful  portion  of  the  Victoria 
Nile  River,  which  he  had  been  obliged  to  omit  from  Karuma 
Falls  to  the  lake.  lie  was  liitnself  confused  at  the  dead-water 
junction  ; and,  although  he  knew  that  the  natives  must  be  right, 
lie  was  determined  to  sacrifice  every  other  wish  in  order  to  ful- 
fil his  promise,  and  thus  to  settle  the  Nile  question  satisfacto- 
rily. That  the  Nile  flowed  out  of  the  lake  he  had  heard,  and 
had  confirmed  the  fact  by  actual  inspection.  From  Magungo 
he  looked  upon  the  countries  Koshi  and  Madi,  through  which 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


317 


it  flowed,  and  these  countries  he  must  actually  pass  through 
and  again  meet  the  Nile  before  he  could  reach  Gondokoro. 
The  only  part  to  be  at  present  verified  was  the  River  Somer- 
set, or  Victoria  Nile,  between  the  lake  and  the  Karuma  Falls. 
The  chief  of  Magungo  and  all  the  natives  assured  him  that  the 
broad  channel  of  dead  water  at  his  feet  was  positively  the 
brawling  river  which  he  had  crossed  below  the  Karuma  Falls, 
but  he  could  not  understand  how  so  flue  a body  of  water  as  that 
had  appeared  could  possibly  enter  the  Albert  Lake  as  dead 
water.  The  guide  and  natives  laughed  at  his  unbelief,  and  de- 
clared that  it  was  dead-water  for  a considerable  distance  from 
the  junction  with  the  lake,  but  that  a great  waterfall  rushed  down 
from  the  mountain,  and  that  beyond  that  fall  the  river  was 
merely  a succession  of  cataracts  throughout  the  entire  distance 
of  about  six  days’  inarch  to  Karuma  Falls. 

Having  resolved  to  explore  the  Victoria  Nile  as  far  as  those 
falls,  and  the  boats  being  ready,  Baker  took  leave  of  the  chief, 
leaving  him  an  acceptable  present  of  beads,  and  descended  the 
hill  to  the  river,  thankful  at  having  so  far  successfully  termi- 
nated the  expedition  as  to  have  traced  the  lake  to  the  important 
point  of  Magungo,  which  had  been  his  clue  to  the  discovery 
even  so  far  away  in  time  and  place  as  the  distant  country  of 
Latooka.  Both  Baker  and  his  wife  were  very  weak  and  ill,  he 
endeavoring  to  assist  his  wife,  and  she  doing  her  best  to  assist 
him.  Reaching  the  boats  they  started  at  once  and  made  good 
progress  till  the  evening.  The  river  seemed  to  be  entirely  de- 
void of  current,  and  had  an  average  breadth  of  about  five  hun- 
dred yards.  Before  halting  for  the  night,  he  had  a severe  at- 
tack of  fever,  and  was  carried  on  shore  on  a litter,  perfectly 
unconscious,  to  a village  in  the  neighborhood  of  their  landing- 
place.  At  daybreak,  he  was  too  weak  to  stand,  and  both  he 
and  his  wife  were  carried  down  to  the  canoes.  Many  of  the 
men  were  also  suffering  from  fever,  the  malaria  of  the  dense 
masses  of  floating  vegetation  being  most  poisonous.  At  about 
ten  miles  from  Magungo  the  river  rapidly  narrowed  to  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  yards.  The  great  flats  of  rush  banks  were  left 
behind  them,  and  they  entered  a channel  between  high  ground 
on  both  sides,  the  hills  being  covered  with  forest.  There  was 
not  even  yet,  however,  any  perceptible  stream.  The  water  was 
clear  and  very  deep.  They  halted  and  slept  on  a mud-bank 
close  to  the  shore.  On  waking  next  morning,  the  river  was 
covered  with  a thick  fog ; and  as,  before  arousing  his  men, 
Baker  lay  watching  the  fog  as  it  was  slowly  being  lifted  from 
the  water,  he  was  struck  by  the  fact  that  the  little  green  water- 


318 


BIS  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


plants,  like  floating  cabbages  ( Pistia  stratiotes , L.),  were  cer- 
tainly moving,  although  very  slowly,  to  the  west.  He  imme- 
diate^ jumped  up  and  examined  them  more  carefully;  there 
was  no  doubt  about  it ; they  were  travelling  towards  the  Al- 
bert Lake.  They  were  now  about  eighteen  miles  in  a direct 
line  from  Magungo,  and  there  was  a current  in  the  river,  which, 
though  slight,  was  perceptible.  They  had  laid  themselves 
down  with  their  clothes  on ; their  toilette  was  therefore  the 
more  easily  arranged,  and  they  at  once  entered  their  canoe 
and  gave  orders  to  start. 

As  they  proceeded,  the  river  gradually  narrowed  to  about 
one  hundred  and  eighty  yards ; and  when  the  paddles  ceased 
working,  they  could  distinctly  hear  the  roar  of  water.  The 
roar  of  the  fall  was  extremely  loud,  and  after  hard  pulling  for 
a couple  of  hours,  during  which  time  the  velocity  of  the  stream 
increased,  they  arrived  at  a few  deserted  fishing-huts,  at  a point 
where  the  river  made  a slight  turn.  There  was  here  a most 
extraordinary  show  of  crocodiles;  they  lay  like  logs  of  timber 
close  together,  and  upon  one  bank  they  counted  twenty-seven 
of  large  size,  and  every  basking-place  was  crowded  in  a similar 
manner.  From  the  time  that  they  had  fairly  entered  the 
river,  it  had  been  confined  by  somewhat  precipitous  heights  on 
either  side,  but  at  this  point  they  were  much  higher  and  bolder. 
From  the  roar  of  the  water  there  was  reason  to  believe  that  the 
fail  would  be  in  sight  if  they  turned  the  corner  at  the  beud  of 
the  river ; and  he  desired  the  boatmen  to  row  as  fast  as 
they  could.  They  objected  to  this  at  first,  wishing  to  stop  at 
the  deserted  village,  and  contending  that,  as  this  was  to  be  the 
limit  of  their  journey,  further  progress  was  impossible.  “ How- 
ever,” he  says,  “ I explained  that  I merely  wished  to  see  the 
fall,  and  they  rowed  immediately  up  the  stream,  which  was 
now  strong  against  ns.  Upon  rounding  the  corner,  a magnifi- 
cent sight  burst  suddenly  upon  us.  On  either  side  of  the  river 
were  beautifully  wooded  cliffs  rising  abruptly  to  a height  of 
about  300  feet;  rocks  were  jutting  out  from  the  intensely 
green  foliage ; and  rushing  through  a gap  that  cleft  the  rock 
exactly  before  us,  the  river,  contracted  from  a grand  stream, 
was  pent  up  in  a narrow  gorge  of  scarcely  fifty  yards  in  width  ; 
roaring  furiously  through  the  rock-bound  pass,  it  plunged  in  one 
leap  of  about  120  feet  perpendicular  into  a dark  abyss  below. 

u The  fall  of  water  was  snow-white,  which  had  a superb 
effect  as  it  contrasted  with  the  dark  cliffs  that  walled  the  river, 
while  the  graceful  palms  of  the  tropics  and  wild  plantains 
perfected  the  beauty  of  the  view.  This  was  the  greatest. 


MURCHISON  FALLS. 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


319 


waterfall  of  the  Nile,  and  in  honor  of  the  distinguished  Presi- 
dent of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  I named  it  the  Mur- 
chison Falls,  as  the  most  important  object  throughout  the  en- 
tire course  of  the  river.” 

The  boatmen  were  promised  a present  of  beads  to  induce 
them  to  approach  the  fall  as  close  as  possible,  and  they  suc- 
ceeded in  bringing  the  canoe  to  within  about  three  hundred 
yards  of  the  base,  but  the  power  of  the  current  and  the  force 
of  the  whirlpools  prevented  their  going  nearer.  A sandbank 
on  their  left  was  literally  covered  with  crocodiles,  which  had 
no  fear  of  the  canoe  till  it  came  within  twenty  yards  of  them, 
and  then  they  slowly  crept  into  the  water,  all  except  one — an 
enormous  fellow  who  lazily  lagged  behind,  and  who  dropped 
dead  immediately  as  a bullet  struck  him  in  the  brain.  The 
boatmen  were  alarmed  at  the  unexpected  report  of  the  rifle, 
and  sought  shelter  in  the  body  of  the  canoe,  not  one  of  them 
using  a paddle,  and  nothing  would  induce  them  to  attend  to 
the  boat,  especially  as  a second  shot  had  been  fired  as  a quietus, 
and  they  could  not  tell  how  often  the  alarming  noise  might  be 
repeated.  They  were  therefore  at  the  mercy  of  the  powerful 
stream,  and  the  canoe  was  whisked  round  by  the  eddy  and 
carried  against  a thick  bank  of  high  reeds.  They  had  scarcely 
touched  it  when  a tremendous  commotion  took  place  in  the 
rushes,  and  in  an  instant  a great  bull  hippopotamus  charged 
the  canoe,  and  with  a severe  shock  striking  the  bottom  he 
lifted  them  half  out  of  the  water.  The  natives  who  were  in 
the  bottom  of  the  boat  positively  yelled  with  terror,  not  know- 
ing whether  the  shock  might  not  in  some  way  be  connected 
with  the  dreaded  report  of  the  rifle. 

A few  kicks  bestowed  by  Baker’s  angry  men  upon  the  re- 
cumbent boatmen  restored  them  to  the  perpendicular,  and  the 
first  thing  necessary  was  to  hunt  for  a lost  paddle  which  was 
floating  down  the  rapid  current.  The  hippopotamus,  proud  of 
having  disturbed  them,  raised  his  head  to  take  a last  view  of 
his  enemy,  but  sunk  too  rapidly  to  permit  a shot.  Crocodile 
heads  of  enormous  size  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions,  and  it 
would  have  been  good  sport  to  these  monsters  if  the  bull  hippo- 
potamus had  been  successful  in  his  attempt  to  capsize  the  canoe. 
Baker  prevailed  upou  the  boatmen  to  keep  the  canoe  steady 
while  he  made  a sketch  of  the  Murchison  Falls,  which  being 
completed  they  drifted  rapidly  down  to  the  landing-place  at 
the  deserted  fishing-village,  and  bade  adieu  to  the  navigation  of 
the  lake  and  river  of  Central  Africa. 

Four  men  were  now  sent  with  the  boatmen  and  the  interpre- 


320 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


ter  to  the  nearest  village  to  ascertain  whether  the  guide  Ha- 
bonga  had  arrived  with  the  riding-oxen,  as  the  future  trav- 
elling of  the  party  was  to  be  by  land,  and  the  limit  of  their 
navigation  must  have  been  well  known  to  him.  After  some 
hours  the  men  returned  with  a message  from  the  headman  of 
the  village  to  the  effect  that  the  oxen  were  there,  but  that  the 
guide  had  remained  at  Magungo.  The  animals  should  be 
brought  to  them  that  evening,  however,  together  with  porters 
to  convey  the  luggage.  They  started  next  day,  but  not  until 
the  afternoon,  having  had  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  headman, 
who  was  to  escort  them.  The  oxen  had  been  bitten  by  the 
tsetse  and  looked  wretched.  Sooner  or  later  they  should  lose 
the  whole  of  them.  The  travellers  themselves  were  quite  a 
match  in  appearance  to  their  animals.  They  continued  their 
journey,  being  now  above  Murchison  Falls,  the  water  of  which 
they  heard  roaring  beneath  them.  Having  passed  the  night  at 
a village  which  belonged  to  the  headman  who  accompanied 
them,  they  proceeeded  on  a route  parallel  to  the  river,  and 
continued  for  a day’s  march,  keeping  near  to  the  Victoria  Nile 
stream,  crossing  many  ravines  and  torrents,  till  suddenly  turn- 
ing to  their  left  they  arrived  at  the  bank  from  which  they 
were  to  be  transported  to  an  island  named  Patooan,  where  a 
chief  resided.  Baker  himself  had  been  obliged  to  walk,  his  ox 
not  being  fit  to  carry  him  ; his  wife  had  been  borne  on  a litter. 
It  was  already  dark  when  they  reached  the  river,  and  after 
much  hallooing  a canoe  was  brought  from  the  island,  which 
was  not  more  than  fifty  yards  from  the  mainland,  and  they 
were  ferried  across.  Mrs.  Baker  was  ill  of  a sudden  attack  of 
fever,  and  was  carried,  Baker  knew  not  whither,  by  some  of 
his  men,  while  he  himself,  exhausted  with  the  same  fell  disease, 
lay  down  on  the  wet  ground  utterly  exhausted.  The  men  who 
had  carried  his  wife  to  the  village  returned  by  and  by  witli 
firebrands,  and  he  managed  to  follow  them  back,  with  the  aid 
of  a long  stick  on  which  he  rested  with  both  hands.  After  a 
walk  through  a forest  of  high  trees,  for  about  a quarter  of  a 
mile,  he  arrived  at  the  village,  where  he  was  shown  a misera- 
ble hut,  through  the  roof  of  which  the  stars  were  visible.  In 
this  lay  his  wife,  very  ill,  and  he  fell  down  upon  some  straw. 
About  an  hour  later,  a violent  thunder-storm  broke  over  them, 
and  their  lint  was  perfectly  flooded.  Of  course  their  night 
was  a very  wretched  one. 

The  island  of  Patooan  is  about  half  a mile  long  by  150  yards 
wide,  and  is  one  of  the  many  masses  of  rocks  that  choke  the 
river  between  Karuma  Falls  and  the  great  Murchison  Cataract. 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


321 


The  rock  is  entirely  of  gray  granite,  from  the  clefts  of  which 
grow  beautiful  forest-trees,  so  thickly  that  the  entire  island  is 
in  shade.  In  the  middle  of  this  secluded  spot  there  was  a con- 
siderable village,  thickly  inhabited  ; the  population  of  the 
mainland  having  fled  from  their  dwellings,  and  taken  refuge 
upon  the  numerous  islands  of  the  river,  on  account  of  the  war 
which  was  raging  between  Rionga  and  Kamrasi.  There  is  a 
succession  of  islands  from  the  east  of  Patooan  to  within  a 
march  of  Ivaruma  Falls.  These  were  at  this  time  in  the  pos- 
session of  Rionga,  and  a still  more  powerful  chief  and  ally, 
Fowooka,  who  were  the  deadly  enemies  of  Kamrasi. 

The  headman  now  informed  them  that  it  would  be  impossi- 
ble to  proceed  along  the  bank  of  the  river  to  Karuma,  as  that 
entire  line  of  country  was  in  possession  of  the  enemy.  This 
was  an  intimation,  plainly  enough,  that  the  party  could  not 
procure  porters.  But  the  exploration  was  completed,  and  it 
was  by  no  means  necessary  to  continue  the  journey  from  Pa- 
tooan  to  Karuma.  Baker  had  followed  the  Somerset  or  Vic- 
toria Nile  from  its  junction  with  the  lake  at  Magnngo  to  this 
point;  it  was  here  a beautiful  river,  precisely  similar  in  char- 
acter to  that  which  distinguished  it  at  the  point  at  which  he 
had  left  it  at  Karuma,  and  the  party  was  now  within  thirty 
miles  of  that  place,  and  about  eighteen  from  the  point  opposite 
Rionga’s  island,  where  they  had  first  reached  die  river  on  their 
arrival  from  the  north.  The  direction  of  the  stream  was  per- 
fectly in  accordance  with  the  observations  made  at  Karuma 
and  at  Magungo — running  from  east  to  west.  The  river  was 
here  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  yards  wide, 
but  much  obstructed  with  rocks  and  islands  ; its  current  was  at 
the  rate  of  about  four  miles  an  hour,  and  the  rapids  and  falls 
were  so  numerous  that  the  roar  of  water  had  been  unin- 
terrupted'throughout  the  whole  march  from  Murchison  Falls. 
The  altitude  of  the  river  at  Patooan  was  ascertained  to  be 
3,195  feet ; thus  from  that  point  to  the  level  of  the  Albert 
Lake  at  Magungo,  there  was  a fall  of  four  hundred  and 
seventy-five  feet — this  difference  being  on  account  of  the  dead 
state  of  the  water  near  the  lake,  almost  entirely  furnished  by 
the  river  between  Patooan  and  the  foot  of  Murchison  Falls: 
the  latter  being  at  the  lowest  estimate  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet,  there  were  thus  left  three  hundred  and  fifty-five  feet  to  be 
accounted  for  between  Patooan  and  the  top  of  the  falls.  As 
the  ledges  of  rock  throughout  the  course  of  the  river  formed  a 
scries  of  steps,  this  was  a natural  difference  in  altitude  which 
suggested  the  correctness  of  the  observations. 

21 


322 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


At  the  level  of  the  river  below  Karuma  Falls  he  had 
measured  the  altitude  at  3,996  feet  above  the  sea-level.  There 
was  thus  a fall  from  that  point  to  Patooan  of  801  feet,  and  a 
total  of  1,276  feet  in  the  descent  of  the  river  from  Karuma  to 
the  Albert  N’Yanza.  These  measurements  being  carefully 
taken,  corroborated  the  opinion  suggested  by  the  natural  ap- 
pearance of  the  river,  which  was  a mere  succession  of  cataracts 
throughout  its  westerly  course  from  Karuma.  These  observa- 
tions were  especially  interesting  from  the  fact  that  when  Baker 
had  met  Speke  at  Gondokoro,  the  latter  was  much  perplexed 
concerning  the  extraordinary  difference  in  his  observation  be- 
tween the  altitude  of  the  river  at  Karuma  Falls,  lat.  2°  15', 
and  at  Gebel  Kookoo  in  the  Madi  country,  lat.  3°  34',  the. 
point  at  which  he  subsequently  met  the  river.  He  knew  that 
both  rivers  were  the  Nile — the  one  before  it  had  joined  the 
lake,  and  the  other  after  its  exit ; but  he  had  been  told  that 
the  river  was  navigable  from  Gebel  Kookoo,  straight  up  to  the. 
junction  of  the  lake : thus  there  could  be  no  great  difference 
in  altitude  between  the  lake  and  the  Nile  where  he  met  it. 
But  he  found  so  enormous  a difference  in  his  observations  be- 
tween the  river  at  Karuma  and  at  Gebel  Kookoo  that  he  con- 
cluded there  must  be  a fall  in  it  between  Karuma  and  the  lake 
of  at  least  1,000  feet.  By  careful  measurements  Baker  proved 
the  closeness  of  Speke’s  reasoning  and  observation,  by  finding  a 
fall  of  only  275  feet  more  than  he  had  anticipated.  From  Ka- 
ruma to  the  Albert  Lake  (although  he  had  not  visited  it), 
Speke  had  marked  upon  his  map,  “river  falls  1,000  feet,”  and 
by  actual  measurement  Baker  proved  it  to  be  1,275  feet.  From 
M’rooli  to  Atada,  or  Karuma  Falls,  there  is  a fall  in  the  river 
of  about  one  foot  in  the  mile,  and  the  stream  is  navigable. 
The  latitude  of  the  island  of  Patooan,  by  observation,  was  2° 
16' : they  were  thus  at  that  point,  due  west  of  Magungo,  and 
east  of  Karuma  Falls. 

They  were  prisoners  on  the  island  of  Patooan,  inasmuch  as 
they  could  not  procure  porters  at  any  price  to  remove  their 
effects.  They  had  lost  all  their  riding-oxen  within  a few  days ; 
these  having  succumbed  to  the  flies,  and  the  only  animal  alive 
was  a little  "bull  which  had  always  carried  the  boy  Saat,  and  it 
was  already  half  dead.  It  was  the  8th  of  April,  and  within  a 
few  days  the  boats  upon  which  they  depended  for  their  return 
to  civilization  would  assuredly  quit  Gondokoro.  Baker  accord- 
ingly offered  the  natives  all  the  beads  he  had  (about  fifty 
pounds)  and  the  whole  of  his  baggage  if  they  would  carry  the 
party  to  Shooa  direct.  They  were  in  perfect  despair : both  of 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


323 


them  were  completely  worn  out  with  fatigue  and  fever,  and 
certain  death  seemed  to  stare  them  in  the  face  if  they  remained 
in  so  unhealthy  a spot ; and  worse  than  death  was  the  idea  of 
their  losing  the  boats,  and  being  compelled  to  remain  prisoners 
for  another  year  in  that  dreadful  land.  Either  one  such  result 
or  the  other  must  inevitably  happen  if  they  did  not  hurry,  with- 
out delay,  direct  to  Gondokoro.  With  their  usual  cunning,  the 
natives  at  length  offered  to  convey  them  to  Shooa,  provided  that 
they  were  paid  the  beads  in  advance.  The  boats  were  prepared 
to  ferry  them  across  the  river,  but  Baker  fortunately  discovered 
the  treacherous  design  of  these  people  to  place  them  in  the  un- 
inhabited wilderness  on  the  north  side,  and  leave  them  there  to 
die  of  hunger.  These  heartless  savages  had  conspired  together 
to  land  the  party,  but  to  immediately  return  with  the  boats 
after  having  thus  got  rid  of  the  incubus  of  their  guests. 

The  travellers  were  now  in  a great  dilemma;  but  they  were 
resolved  not  to  remain  on  the  island,  as  they  suspected  that  the 
boats  might  be  taken  away  and  that  thus  they  should  be  kept 
prisoners.  Baker  therefore  ordered  his  men  to  take  the  canoes 
and  ferry  the  party  to  the  mainland  from  which  they  had  come. 
Upon  hearing  this  order,  the  headman  offered  to  carry  them  to 
a village  and  there  await  orders  from  Kamrasi  as  to  whether 
they  were  to  be  forwarded  to  Shooa  or  not.  They  were  there- 
fore ferried  across,  and  both  of  them,  unable  to  walk,  were 
carried  by  the  natives  for  about  three  hours,  at  the  end  of 
which  time  they  arrived  at  a deserted  village,  half  of  which  was 
in  ashes,  it  having  been  plundered  and  burnt  by  the  enemy. 
They  spent  the  night  in  an  old  hut  in  pouring  rain.  Fearing 
that  the  natives  might  desert  them,  he  gave  orders  to  his  own 
men  to  disarm  them,  and  retain  their  weapons  as  a security ; 
but  on  the  following  morning  not  a native  was  to  be  seen — 
every  man  of  them  had  absconded,  without  their  spears  and 
shields — there  were  neither  inhabitants  nor  provisions  in  the 
place,  and  the  whole  country  was  a wilderness  of  rank  grass 
which  hemmed  them  in  on  all  sides.  He  directed  his  men  to 
search  among  the  ruined  villages  for  buried  corn,  and,  after 
some  hours,  assisted  by  the  woman  from  Obbo,  Bacheeta,  who 
being  a native  of  the  country  was  acquainted  with  the  ways  of 
the  people,  they  discovered  a hollow  place,  by  sounding  the 
earth  with  a stick,  and  upon  digging,  found  a granary  of  the 
seed  known  as  “ tullaboon,”  which  was  a great  prize,  and 
which,  although  mouldy  and  bitter,  would  keep  them  from 
starving.  They  also  discovered  three  varieties  of  plants,  grow- 
ing in  profusion ; which,  when  boiled,  were  a good  substitute 


324 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


for  spinach.  Their  dinner  thus  consisted  daily  of  a mess  of 
black  porridge,  that  no  English  pig  would  have  touched,  and  a 
large  dish  of  spinach.  Baker  says,  “ ‘ Better  a dinner  of  herbs 
where  love  is,5  etc.,  often  occurred  to  me ; but  I am  not  sure 
that  I was  quite  of  that  opinion  after  a fortnight’s  grazing  upon 
spinach.”  They  also,  by  and  by,  found  a species  of  wild  thyme, 
which  made  a tolerable  substitute  for  tea.  Exhausted  by  fever 
and  the  effects  of  the  climate,  and  subsisting  upon  this  wretched 
fare,  the  two  travellers  lay  in  their  hut,  unable  to  walk,  for 
nearly  two  months.  Their  men  made  long  excursions  through 
the  country  to  endeavor  to  purchase  provisions,  but  in  the  two 
months  they  procured  only  two  kids — the  country  was  deserted 
on  account  of  the  war.  Every  day  the  boy  Saat  and  the 
woman  Bacheeta  sallied  out  and  conversed  with  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  different  islands  on  the  river,  which  was  within  two 
miles  of  them ; and  sometimes,  bat  very  rarely,  they  returned  with 
a fowl,  which  event,  when  it  did  happen,  caused  great  rejoicing. 

Gondokoro  was  now  out  of  the  question  ; and  perfectly  re- 
signed to  their  fate,  they  were  sure  that  they  must  be  buried  in 
Chopi.  Baker  therefore  wrote  instructions  in  his  journal,  in 
case  of  death,  and  instructed  his  headman  to  deliver  his  maps, 
observations,  and  papers  to  the  English  Consul  at  Khartoom. 
This  was  his  only  care,  as  he  feared  that,  if  he  should  die,  all 
his  labor  might  be  lost.  He  had  no  fear  for  his  wife,  for  she 
was  quite  as  bad  as  he,  and  if  one  should  die  the  other  would 
certainly  follow;  and  indeed  they  had  agreed  it  would  be 
better  so,  than  that  if  he  were  gone,  she  should  fall  into  the 
hands  of  Kamrasi.  They  had  struggled  to  win,  and  they 
thanked  God  that  they  had  won  ; and  if  death  were  to  be  the 
price,  at  all  events  they  were  at  the  gaol,  and  should  have  rest, 
— there  would  be  no  more  suffering,  no  fever,  no  long  journey 
before  them,  which  in  their  weak  state  was  an  infliction ; “ the 
only  wish  was  to  lay  down  the  burthen.” 

This  village  in  which  so  melancholy  a season  was  spent  is  in 
Kamrasi’s  country.  After  a time,  the  travellers  came  to  under- 
stand that  they  had  been  deserted  by  the  Patooan  men  by  Kam- 
rasi’s orders.  He  was  at  war,  and  wanted  Baker  with  his  men 
and  his  guns  to  join  him,  being  assured  that,  if  he  did,  they 
would  gain  the  victory.  The  abandonment  and  the  starvation 
were  measures  of  coercion  by  means  of  which  the  king  believed 
he  could  realize  his  wish.  Kamrasi,  it  was  said,  was  not  more 
than  thirty  miles  distant.  At  the  end  of  two  months,  therefore, 
Baker  sent  his  vakeel  or  headman,  with  a native  as  a guide,  as 
the  bearer  of  a message  to  him.  He  demanded  that  an  escort 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER . 


325 


should  be  sent  for  him,  and  after  some  days  the  absconded 
guide,  Rabongo,  appeared  with  a number  of  men,  but  without 
the  vakeel,  lie  brought  two  pieces  of  printed  paper  with  him, 
torn  out  of  a book  which  had  been  left  by  Speke,  as  evidence 
that  the  messenger  had  seen  the  king.  Next  morning  the  two 
sufferers  were  carried  forward  on  litters.  Arriving  at  a village, 
Kisoona,  they  found  that  ten  of  Ibrahim’s  Turks  liad  been  de- 
tained there  as  hostages.  Baker’s  men  and  they  fired  salutes  of 
welcome  and  greeting,  and  great  was  their  rejoicing  at  meeting 
again.  The  king  sent  a substantial  present,  and  his  brother, 
who  had  formerly  represented  him,  and  pretended  to  be  Kam- 
rasi,  paid  a visit  on  the  following  morning.  Baker  sent  the 
king  a present  of  powder  and  caps,  and  other  articles,  explain- 
ing that  he  was  quite  out  of  stores,  having  been  kept  so  long  in 
the  country.  M’Gambi,  the  brother,  appeared  again  in  the 
evening,  with  a message  from  the  king,  to  the  effect  that  Baker 
was  his  greatest  friend,  that  he  could  not  think  of  taking  any- 
thing from  him — he  desired  nothing — but  he  would  be  much 
obliged  if  he  would  give  him  the  “ little  double  rifle  that  he 
always  carried,  and  his  watch,  and  his  compass  ! ” They  were 
quietly  but  firmly  refused,  and  an  assurance  given  that  no 
more  presents  were  wanted  from  the  king.  Being  entreated  to 
visit  Kamrasi,  Baker  consented;  but  he  was  in  rags,  and  he 
knew  that  dress  lias  always  a certain  effect  even  in  Africa.  He 
happened  to  possess  a full-dress  Highland  suit  which  he  had 
worn  when  he  had  lived  in  Perthshire  many  years  before. 
This  he  had  treasured  for  great  occasions  like  the  present.  lie 
therefore  appeared  at  eight  o’clock  the  next  morning,  attired  in 
kilt,  sporran,  and  Glengarry  bonnet ; and  to  the  utter  amaze- 
ment of  the  crowd,  the  ragged-looking  object  that  had  arrived 
in  Kisoona,  now  issued  from  the  obscure  hut,  with  plaid  and 
kilt  of  Athole  tartan.  He  was  immediately  shouldered  by  a 
number  of  men,  and  attended  by  ten  of  his  own  people  as  an 
escort,  he  was  carried  to  the  camp  of  the  great  Kamrasi.  It 
was  the  real  man  this  time. 

Kamrasi  was  a remarkably  fine  man,  tall  and  well-propor- 
tioned, with  a handsome  face  of  a dark-brown  color,  but  with 
a peculiarly  sinister  expression.  He  was  beautifully  clean,  and 
instead  jf  wearing  the  dark  cloth  common  among  the  people, 
he  was  dressed  in  a fine  mantle  of  black  and  white  goat-skins, 
as  soft  as  chamois  leather.  His  people  sat  on  the  ground  at 
some  distance  from  his  throne : when  they  approached  to  ad- 
dress him  on  any  subject,  they  crawled  upon  their  hands  and 
knees  to  his  feet,  and  touched  the  ground  with  their  foreheads. 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


Aware  of  the  practice  of  the  court,  Baker  had  provided  him- 
self with  a stool. 

It  was  not  long  before  the  king,  true  to  his  natural  instincts, 
commenced  begging,  and  being  much  struck  with  the  Highland 
costume,  he  demanded  it  as  a proof  of  friendship.  The  watch, 
the  compass,  and  the  double  Fletcher  rifle  were  again  asked 
for,  but  all  were  steadily  refused.  Baker  was  carried  back  to 
Kisoona.  He  could  not  now  quit  the  country  for  some  consid- 
erable time,  and  therefore  constructed  “ a comfortable  little 
liut,”  surrounded  by  a courtyard  strongly  fenced,  in  which  he 
arranged  a Rakooba,  or  open  shed,  in  which  to  sit  during  the 
hottest  hours  of  the  day.  He  had  procured  a cow  from  Kam- 
rasi,  which  gave  plenty  of  milk,  and  every  week  the  king  sent 
an  ox  and  a quantity  of  flour,  and  the  whole  party  soon  exhib- 
ited signs  that  they  had  now  escaped  from  starvation.  Of 
course  his  majesty  took  good  care  that  he  should  be  reimbursed 
by  means  of  many  demanded  presents.  He  paid  frequent 
visits  to  the  dwelling  of  the  traveller ; but  by  no  means  raised 
himself  in  the  estimation  of  those  whose  hut  he  thus  conde- 
scended to  honor.  Much  disturbance,  anxiety,  and  inconven- 
ience were  occasioned  by  the  war,  in  which  Baker  persistently 
refused  to  join.  On  one  occasion,  the  enemy  came  near  the 
encampment  at  which  the  party  was  living  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  king  ; and  Baker  then  hoisted  the  British  flag  on  a 
staff  which  he  had  erected  in  his  courtyard,  and  declared  Kam- 
rasi  to  be  his  friend,  and  that  if  any  one  injured  him  or  his 
people  under  that  flag,  he  (Baker)  would  avenge  the  wrong, 
lie  would  defend,  but  he  would  not  attack ; and  the  foe  re- 
treated. Kamrasi  changed  his  camping  ground,  but  Baker  re- 
fused to  follow,  and  being  now  left  alone  with  his  own  party, 
he,  with  much  difficulty  and  no  small  danger  on  account  of 
these  hostilities,  moved  onwards  on  his  way  to  Gondokoro,  and 
home. 

Some  months  were  passed  at  Shooa,  on  the  way.  He  found 
that  the  Turks  had  discovered  a new  country  called  Tira,  about 
thirty  miles  from  Shooa.  The  natives  were  reported  as  very 
friendly,  and  their  country  was  extremely  fertile,  and  rich  in 
ivory.  Many  of  their  people  had  returned  with  the  Turks  and 
were  located  in  their  camp.  But  they  were  also  at  war  with 
their  neighbors,  and  hence  it  became  still  more  difficult  to  pro- 
cure porters  for  Gondokoro. 

But  the  hour  of  deliverance  from  this  lengthened  sojourn  in 
Central  Africa  was  at  hand — it  was  the  month  of  February, 
1865,  and  the  boats  would  now  be  at  Gondokoro.  The  Turks 


THE  WELCOME  ON  OUR  RETURN  TO  CAMP 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


327 


had  packed  their  ivory.  Baker  counted  their  loads — six 
hundred  and  forty  in  number,  fifty  pounds  each,  and  equal  to 
about  9,6301.  when  delivered  in  Egypt — a good  result  from 
their  twelve  months’  campaign.  Starting  on  their  journey, 
they  were  attacked  several  times  by  the  natives,  who  shot 
jxfisoned  arrows  at  them,  but  both  the  traders  and  the  travellers 
escaped  unharmed.  Approaching  Gondokoro,  Baker  mounted 
, the  English  flag  on  a tine  straight  bamboo  with  a lance-head, 
and  marched  forward.  Never  had  the  oxen  travelled  so  fast 
as  on  that  morning,  and  the  men  in  good  spirits  followed  at  a 
double  quick  pace.  “I  see  the  masts  of  vessels!”  exclaimed 
the  boy  Saat.  “ Hurrah ! ” said  Baker : “ three  cheers  for  old 
England  and  the  sources  of  the  Nile!  Hurrah!”  and  the 
men  joined  him  in  the  lusty  cheer.  “Now  for  a salute  ! Fire 
away  all  your  powder  if  yon  like,  my  lads,  and  let  the  people 
know  that  we’re  alive  ! ” Presently  they  saw  the  Turkish  flag 
emerge  from  Gondokoro,  at  about  a quarter  of  a mile  distant, 
followed  by  a number  of  the  traders’  people,  who  waited  to  re- 
ceive them.  This  terminated  the  expedition.  But  they  were 
bitterly  disappointed  ! There  were  awaiting  them  no  boats,  no 
letters,  no  supplies,  nor  any  intelligence  of  friends  or  the  civil- 
ized world.  They  had  long  since  been  given  up  as  dead  by 
the  inhabitants  of  Khartoom,  and  by  all  who  understood  the 
diflieulties  and  dangers  of  the  country.  They  were  told  that 
some  had  suggested  that  they  might  possibly  have  gone  to  Zan- 
zibar, but  the  general  opinion  was  that  they  had  all  been 
killed.  They  had  looked  forward  to  arriving  at  Gondokoro  as 
at  a home ; they  had  expected  that  a boat  would  have  been 
sent  on  the  chance  of  finding  them,  and  money  had  been  left  in 
the  hands  of  an  agent  in  Khartoom — but  there  was  literally 
nothing  to  receive  them,  and  they  were  helpless. 

The  plague  was  raging  at  Khartoom,  and  fifteen  thousand 
people  had  died.  It  had  even  reached  Gondokoro,  and  people 
died  daily.  They  succeeded  at  length  in  procuring  a boat, 
and  left  for  Khartoom.  Poor  Saat,  who  had  been  devoted  and 
true,  was  seized  by  the  plague  and  died  on  the  way.  They 
laid  his  remains,  in  much  sorrow,  on  the  desert  shore.  They 
found  letters  awaiting  them  at  Khartoom,  which  cheered 
them;  but  the  people  of  the  place  had  indeed  given  them  up 
for  lost.  On  the  1st  of  July  they  sailed  from  Khartoom  for 
Berber.  They  were  nearly  lost  at  the  passage  of  the  cataracts, 
but  saved  their  lives  and  their  papers,  and  much  of  their 
trophies  and  goods.  Their  voyage  lasted  twenty-four  days. 
Arriving  at  Souakim,  after  a fortnight’s  waiting,  they  found 


328 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


a steam  transport,  which  had  brought  troops  about  to  return 
immediately  to  Suez;  and  availing  themselves  of  this  opportu- 
nity, they  reached  that  port  in  five  days.  Landing  from  the 
steamer,  they  once  more  found  themselves  in  an  English  Hotel. 
“ What  an  Elysium  ! The  beds  had  sheets  and  pillow-cases  ! ” 
neither  of  which  the  travellers  had  seen  for  years. 

Reaching  Cairo,  Baker  received  letters  from  England,  which 
had  been  waiting  at  the  British  Consulate ; and  the  first  he., 
opened  informed  him  that  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  had 
awarded  him  the  Victoria  gold  medal,  at  a time  when  they 
were  not  aware  whether  he  was  alive  or  dead,  and  when  the 
success  of  his  expedition  was  unknown.  “This  appreciation 
of  my  exertions,”  he  says,  “ was  the  warmest  welcome  I could 
have  received  on  my  first  entrance  into  civilization  after  so 
many  years  of  savagedom  : it  rendered  the  completion  of  the 
Nile  sources  doubly  grateful,  as  I had  fulfilled  the  expectations 
that  the  Geographical  Society  had  so  generously  expressed  by 
the  presentation  of  the  medal  before  my  task  was  done.”  On 
his  arrival  in  England  he  was  received  witli  much  enthusiasm, 
and  the  honor  of  knighthood  was  conferred  upon  him — as  it 
would  have  been  conferred  on  Speke  but  for  his  premature 
death. 


For  two  or  three  years  after  his  return  from  the  exploration 
of  the  Albert  Nyanza,  Sir  Samuel  Baker  remained  in  England 
engaged  in  literary  pursuits;  but  since  that  time  he  has  again 
been  in  the  wilds  of  Central  Africa  in  the  region  of  his  earlier 
discoveries,  and  has  again  returned.  This  time  he  went  at  the 
head  of  a large  armed  force,  organized  and  commissioned  by 
the  Viceroy  of  Egypt.  In  order  to  understand  the  character 
and  object  of  this  famous  expedition,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
indicate  the  state  of  things  out  of  which  it  grew. 

The  discoveries  of  Burton,  Speke,  and  Baker,  had  naturally 
directed  public  attention  to  Central  Africa,  and  especial  inter- 
est was  felt  in  the  hopeful  view  they  took  of  the  possible 
development  of  that  distant  land.  They  showed  for  one  tiling, 
that  instead  of  the  sterile  desert  which  had  hitherto  occupied 
such  a large  space  on  the  map,  Central  Africa  was  a magnifi- 
cent country,  rising  to  a mean  level  of  five  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea.  From  the  elevated  plateaux  mountains  rose  to  various 
altitudes ; the  climate  was  healthy,  the  soil  extremely  fertile, 
the  landscape  very  beautiful,  the  rain-fall  extended  over  nine 
or  ten  months  of  the  year,  the  country  was  well-watered  by 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


329 


numerous  streams,  the  population  was  in  many  districts  large, 
and  where  the  slavers  had  not  penetrated,  the  natives  were 
well-disposed.  There  were  all  the  desiderata  for  a great  for- 
ward movement.  The  Nile  was  navigable  for  large  vessels  as 
far  as  Gondokoro — one  thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
by  river  from  Khartoom.  The  forests  on  the  banks  of  the 
stream  would  supply  fuel  free  of  expense  for  the  steamers  re- 
quired. The  supply  of  ivory  appeared  to  be  inexhaustible, 
valuable  fibres  existed,  and  the  preparation  of  these  appeared 
to  be  understood  by  the  natives.  The  highlands  were  especially 
adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  coffee,  while  the  lowlands  were 
peculiarly  suitable  for  cotton,  which  is  now  grown  by  the 
Shillook  tribe  in  considerable  quantities. 

Unfortunately  this  beautiful  country  was  subject  to  a blight, 
which,  as  the  explorers  pointed  out,  had  resulted  largely  from 
its  discovery  by  Egypt.  Under  the  pretence  of  trading  in 
ivory,  immense  numbers  of  slave-hunters  from  Soudan  had 
organized  themselves  as  piratical  bands  to  pillage  the  natives, 
and  kidnap  the  women  and  children  to  be  sold  in  Khartoom  as 
slaves.  Baker  estimates  that  not  less  than  50,000  slaves  have  for 
years  been  annually  carried  down  the  Nile,  closely  packed  in 
small  vessels  of  about  fifty  tons,  to  the  number  of  250  or  more 
in  each  boat.  The  horrors  of  the  traffic  have  been  frightful. 

The  Khedive  of  Egypt,  instigated,  perhaps,  by  the  growing 
public  sentiment  on  the  subject  in  Europe,  determined  to  sup- 
press this  shocking  iniquity.  With  this  object  in  view,  he 
communicated  with  Baker,  and  laid  before  him  a plan  for  the 
absolute  eradication  of  the  slave-trade  in  the  Nile  region. 
The  first  step  which  was  considered  necessary,  was  the  estab- 
lishment of  a government  which  would  exhibit  the  authority 
of  Egypt  in  those  countries  which  had  hitherto  been  devastated 
by  the  slave-hunters. 

Baker  entered  into  this  enterprise  with  enthusiasm.  He  was 
commissioned  Pasha  by  the  Khedive,  and  furnished  with  1,000 
Egyptian  soldiers  and  all  necessary  supplies  ; and  accompanied 
by  his  wife,  his  nephew,  Lieutenant  Baker,  and  seven  English 
engineers,  left  Cairo  in  1870  for  Gondokoro.  When  the  ex- 
pedition reached  the  latter  place  it  comprised  an  active  military 
force  of  1,200  men.  The  troops  were  occupied  in  building  a 
station  and  erecting  magazines  for  the  vast  amount  of  stores 
when  the  Bari  war  broke  out.  This  tribe  had  been  incited  by 
the  slave-hunters  to  resist  the  expedition.  The  population, 
which  was  very  warlike,  numbered  about  1,500,000,  and  they 
entered  into  an  alliance  with  a neighboring  tribe,  with  which 


330 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


they  had  lately  been  at  war,  for  the  purpose  ot  making  a joint 
attack  upon  the  station,  the  only  protection  for  which  yet  exist- 
ing was  a slight  fence  of  thorns.  Out  of  two  regiments  Baker 
formed  a perfect  corps  (V elite,  amongst  whom,  by  the  force  of 
example  and  by  the  establishment  of  a code  of  honor,  he  pro- 
duced an  admirable  esprit  de  corps.  This  little  baud  of  forty- 
eight,  which  he  called  “ The  Forty  Thieves,”  was  armed  with 
Snider  rifles,  and  with  them  he  held  a separate  station  one  and 
a half  miles  from  the  main  station  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile. 

At  about  two  o’clock  in  the  morning  an  attack  was  made 
upon  the  chief  station.  The  sentries  had  challenged  and 
had  fired  at  the  sneaking  scouts,  and  the  natives  then  used 
all  their  tactics  to  deceive  the  troops.  At  a distance  of  about 
half  a mile  their  drums  and  horns  were  sounded ; in  the 
meantime  their  main  body  was  still  advancing  stealthily  in 
the  darkness,  until  suddenly  they  made  a rush  upon  the  sta- 
tion. Under  the  heavy  fire  of  the  garrison  they  were  re- 
pulsed ; but  this  attack  was  the  signal  for  general  hostilities 
throughout  the  country.  Baker  arranged  strong  parties  of 
patrols — nevertheless  every  night  was  disturbed  by  the  firing 
of  the  sentries  upon  the  enemy’s  scouts.  He  entrenched 
the  camp  at  head-quarters,  and  constructed  a fort  at  his  own 
private  station,  with  ditches  and  earthworks.  At  last  he 
determined  to  put  a stop  to  the  night  attacks.  He  posted 
small  parties  of  five  men  each  evening  under  cover  of  the 
white  ant-hills,  or  any  other  cover  that  could  be  found.  In 
this  manner  he  guarded  every  approach  to  the  station  outside 
the  beat  of  the  patrols  where  the  enemy  would  never  expect 
a guard.  For  this  night  work  he  substituted  for  the  Sniders, 
muskets  with  eight  buckshot  rammed  down  above  the  bullet. 
Nothing  could  be  more  successful.  The  natives  came  unawares 
upon  the  guards,- who  were  thus  concealed,  and,  as  the  posi- 
tions were  changed  every  night,  it  was  impossible  for  them 
to  advance  without  being  entrapped.  Several  of  the  natives 
were  shot ; one  was  captured  and  hanged  on  a tree  the  fol- 
lowing morning  as  a warning  to  the  rest,  and  in  a short  time 
not  one  native  dared  to  disturb  the  camp. 

Finally  Baker  started  with  450  men,  and  passing  through 
the  Bari  district  into  the  open  country  there  was  some  sharp 
work  for  the  Sniders  for  a few  days,  after  which  the  natives 
took  to  the  mountains  and  forests.  Hence  he  determined 
to  explore  not  only  the  open  country,  but  the  bush  to  which 
the  enemy  had  retreated  with  their  cattle  and  supplies.  This, 
although  very  dense  in  some  places,  would  usually  allow  the 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER 


331 


advance  of  skirmishing-parties.  In  this  way  he  succeeded 
in  driving  the  enemy  whom  he  had  to  encounter  from  their 
hiding-places,  and  he  captured  their  cattle  with  the  loss  of 
only  a few  men  during  a month’s  campaign. 

Upon  returning  to  head-quarters  he  found  it  necessary  to 
commence  operations  upon  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile.  “ I 
had  brought,  he  says,  “ twenty-one  Arab  horses  from  Cairo ; 
and  I would  remark  that  wherever  the  country  would  admit 
of  cavalry  operations  they  should  be  always  employed  against 
savages.  In  the  portions  of  Africa  which  I have  visited,  the 
natives  have  an  extraordinary  fear  of  horses,  which,  to  them, 
are  strange  and  dangerous  animals.  I have  frequently 
charged  with  four  or  five  horses,  and  once  with  only  three, 
and  have  dispersed  large  numbers  of  natives  and  captured 
their  cattle.  Horses  are  invaluable,  and  when  used  up  by 
hard  work  or  sickness  will  more  than  have  earned  their  cost.” 
The  Bari  campaign  had  so  far  raised  the  prestige  of  the 
Snider  company  that  their  very  appearance  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river  was  sufficient  to  overawe  the  enemy.  Ba- 
ker’s force  had  been  reduced  by  the  return  to  Khartoom  of 
600  men  and  officers.  These  people  were  discontented,  as  the 
object  of  the  expedition,  i.e .,  the  suppression  of  the  slave- 
trade,  was  hateful  to  them:  many  of  the  men  were  also  suf- 
fering from  severly  ulcerated  legs.  Many  of  the  black  troops 
who  remained  had  served  with  Marshal  Bazaine  in  Mexico, 
and  were  far  superior  to  the  Egyptian  soldiers. 

The  very  sight  of  a red  shirt,  that  being  the  garment  worn 
by  the  Snider  company,  being  sufficient  to  dismay  the  natives, 
Baker  dressed  all  his  troops  in  the  same  way,  and  pushed 
on  towards  the  equator,  intending  to  purge  the  new  territory 
of  the  slave-hunters,  who  numbered  about  1,100  men,  and 
who  were  mostly  Arabs  of  the  Soudan.  There  were  also 
many  black  soldiers  who  had  deserted  from  the  Government  in 
Khartoom,  and  had  settled  in  the  employ  of  a firm  entitled 
Agad  and  Co.,  which  alone  employed  2,500  slave-hunters  in 
Central  Africa.  These  1,100  men  were  armed  with  rifles, 
muskets,  double-barrelled  guns,  and  were  officered  in  imita- 
tion of  the  regular  troops.  They  had  endeavored  to  excite 
the  natives  against  the  government,  though  in  some  cases 
unsuccessfully,  throughout  the  Upper  Nile  countries. 

Arrived  at  the  extreme  limits  of  navigation  of  the  Nile, 
at  the  foot  of  the  last  cataracts,  in  N.  lat.  4°  38',  Baker  found 
it  impossible  to  make  friends  with  the  natives.  He  therefore 
left  the  ships  with  150  men  in  charge  of  them,  and  started 


332 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


with  100  men  for  the  country  of  the  Lobore,  there  to  hire 
transport  and  carriers  to  bring  up  the  baggage  from  Gondo- 
koro.  From  that  point  the  whole  of  the  expedition  for  the 
annexation  of  Central  Africa  and  the  suppression  of  slavery 
numbered  only  212  picked  men.  For  four  days  he  marched 
with  the  100  men  whom  he  took  with  him  through  the  Lobord 
country  without  a shot  being  fired  ; but  in  the  meantime  a 
general  attack  had  been  made  upon  the  vessels,  the  Egyptian 
officer  in  command  having  of  course  neglected  all  the  orders 
that  were  given  him,  and  it  was  only  after  a severe  contest 
resulting  from  disgraceful  mismanagement  that  the  enemy 
was  repulsed. 

From  Lobor6,  Baker  marched  to  Fatiko,  and  thence  to 
Masindi  (in  lat.  1°  45'  N.),  the  capital  of  Kabba  Rega,  our 
old  friend  Kamrasi’s  successor.  Here  he  found  that  the  ivory 
and  slave  traders  had  spread  all  kinds  of  evil  reports  about  his 
expedition,  inflaming  the  native  tribes  against  it.  Kabba  Rega 
had  been  told  that  Baker  Pasha  wa9  coming  at  the  head  of  an 
Egyptian  army  to  take  forcible  possession  of  his  country,  and 
annex  it  to  Egypt,  with  the  view  of  exacting  heavy  taxes  and 
tributes,  and  carrying  away  the  people.  It  was  accordingly 
agreed,  between  the  traders  and  the  Negro  chiefs,  to  murder 
Baker  if  possible,  and  by  every  means  to  prevent  the  progress 
of  the  Egyptian  soldiers. 

Shortly  after  he  had  arrived  with  a portion  of  his  men  at 
Masindi,  the  King,  according  to  African  custom,  sent  him  a 
present  of  ten  jars  of  pombe."  This  liquor  was  heavily  charged 
with  poison,  and  all  who  partook  of  it  were  suddenly  seized 
with  severe  illness.  But  by  administering  strong  antidotes,  the 
poison  was  neutralized  in  every  case,  and  no  lives  were  lost. 
Baker  then  despatched  some  of  his  officers  as  messengers  to 
demand  why  the  poisoned  beer  had  been  sent  into  his  camp ; 
but  as  soon  as  they  entered  his  village,  Kabba  Rega  ordered  them 
to  be  killed,  and  they  were  all  murdered  in  cold  blood.  War 
was  then  proclaimed ; the  chief  beating  his  great  drums,  and 
ordering  a levy  of  ten  thousand  warriors.  A large  body  of 
them  attacked  Baker,  who  had  only  about  a hundred  Egyptian 
troops  with  him.  These  men  were  all  greatly  fatigued  with 
the  long  journey  into  the  interior,  and  some  of  them  were  still 
suffering  from  the  effects  of  the  poisoned  drink.  It  was,  there- 
fore, necessary  that  he  should  beat  a retreat  before  the  swarms 
of  enemies  assailing  him,  and  he  retired  after  burning  his  camp 
and  heavy  baggage.  During  seven  days  of  great  danger  and 
hardship,  the  backward  march  of  the'  Egyptians  was  sorely 


SIR  SAMVEL  BAKER. 


833 


harassed,  and  four  or  five  of  his  men  were  left  dead  on  the 
route.  At  the  end  of  this  perilous  week,  they  came  to  the 
province  of  Rionga,  a chief  hostile  to  Kabba  Rega,  and  welcome 
assistance  was  then  obtained.  The  pursuit  had  already  been 
abandoned  ; but  with  a view  to  punish  Kabba  Rega,  it  was  ar- 
ranged that  Rionga  should  supply  2,000  armed  men,  and  that 
these  with  a portion  of  Baker’s  own  force  should  return  toward 
Masindi  and  attack  the  enemy.  Baker  promised  that  if  this 
expedition  was  successful,  Rionga  should  be  appointed  governor 
of  his  own  and  Kabba  Rega’s  district  in  the  name  of  the  Khedive 
of  Egypt.  With  the  remainder  of  his  men  Baker  then  turned 
northwards,  but  in  passing  through  one  of  the  villages  was  fired 
upon  by  the  slave-traders,  who  were  located  there.  He  thus 
lost  thirty  of  his  soldiers.  But  the  attack  was  successfully  re- 
pelled— one  hundred  and  forty  of  the  slavers’  party  were  slain, 
and  many  prisoners  were  taken.  The  captives  declared  that 
the  orders  of  their  masters  and  of  the  chiefs  friendly  to  them 
were  to  kill  “the  Nazarene” — meaning  Baker — wherever  and 
whenever  they  could. 

Baker  returned  to  Fatiko  to  see  what  had  become  of  the  gar- 
rison, whom  he  found  all  safe.  “ Here,”  he  says,  “ a final  at- 
tack was  made  upon  the  expedition  by  the  slave-hunters,  who, 
however,  were  utterly  routed  with  great  loss,  and  from  that 
time  the  whole  of  the  natives  continued  in  the  most  friendly 
manner  to  help  the  expedition,  and  slavery  was  entirely  sup- 
pressed.” 

This  chastisement  cleared  the  whole  country  around  Gondo- 
koro,  and  down  towards  Kabba  Rega’s  territory.  After  a season 
of  repose,  which  was  imperatively  needed,  Baker  began  systemati- 
cally to  organize  the  districts  which  were  in  his  possession. 
He  made  Fatiko  the  chief  town  of  the  new  territory,  and  ap- 
pointed superintendents  at  the  other  stations.  Before  long  the 
natives  settled  peacefully  under  the  new  government,  and  ap- 
peared well  satisfied  with  the  safety  and  quiet  which  it  afforded. 
The  light  tribute  exacted  of  a basket  of  bread  and  a bundle  of 
grass  per  month  for  each  hut  was  paid  willingly  and  regularly; 
and  when  Sir  Samuel  went  finally  northward  in  1873,  having 
completed  his  task,  the  people  of  Fatiko  gave  him  the  heartiest 
of  adieus,  calling  him  “father”  and  “ master,”  and ■ looking 
upon  him  as  their  future  protector. 

Next  to  Fatiko,  the  chief  station  of  the  new  territory  will  be 
Gondokoro.  Eight  more  points  have  been  marked  out  as  prin- 
cipal posts,  and  these  will  constitute  a chain  leading  from 
Nubia  to  the  Albert  N’Yanza.  A thousand  additional  troops 


334 


SIR  SAMUEL  BAKER. 


have  been  sent  to  garrison  these  stations.  Baker  says  that  the 
slave-traffic  is  now  impossible  in  the  territory  of  the  White  Nile, 
and  that  a stable  government  is  established  in  the  very  centre 
of  Africa.  Three  small  steamers  were  intended  to  be  trans- 
ported in  pieces  to  the  great  lakes  on  the  backs  of  camels,  and 
are  now,  in  all  probability,  plying  on  these  immense  waters. 
There  are,  at  the  present  time,  eleven  steamers  carrying  on 
traffic  on  the  White  Nile  above  Khartoom  ; and  the  Khedive  is 
about  commencing  a railway  to  connect  Cairo  with  Khartoom. 

We  are  told  that  Baker’s  mission  has  been  entirely  success- 
ful ; that,  in  his  capacity  of  representative  of  the  Khedive,  he 
has  not  only  annexed  the  Nile  basin  as  far  as  the  equator  to 
the  Egyptian  dominions,  but,  more  important  still,  has  suc- 
ceeded in  putting  down  the  slave-trade  in  that  whole  territory ; 
and  that  a strong  government  has  been  established,  tranquillity 
restored,  and  the  way  rendered  safe  to  travellers  as  far  as  Zan- 
zibar. Should  this  prove  true,  even  in  part,  Baker  will  be  en- 
titled to  a high  place  among  the  benefactors  of  his  kind  ; but, 
as  will  be  seen  in  a subsequent  chapter,  Schweinfurth  does  not 
take  nearly  so  hopeful  a view  of  the  results  of  the  Egyptian  oc- 
cupation. 

As  to  the  geographical  results  of  this  expedition,  Sir  Samuel 
is  persuaded  that  Lakes  Tanganyika  and  Albert  N’Yanza  are 
one,  having  thus  a length  of  not  less  than  seven  hundred  miles, 
and  that  a vessel  can  be  launched  near  Murchison  Falls,  at  the 
head  of  the  N’Yanza,  and  sail  to  XJjiji,  or  lower,  through  ten 
degrees  of  latitude.  If  this  be  so,  then  Burton  and  Livingstone, 
or  Speke  and  Baker,  or  both,  have  made  a tremendous  error  in 
calculating  the  respective  altitudes  of  the  two  lakes — an  error 
of  nearly  1,000  feet. 


CHAPTER  XT. 


LIVINGSTONE’S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYASSA. 

After  his  return  from  his  famous  journey  across  the  conti- 
nent in  1855-’G,  Livingstone  only  remained  in  England  long 
enough  to  publish  his  account  of  that  journey,  and  to  make 
preparations  for  another  expedition  which  he  had  resolved  to 
undertake,  with  the  object  of  finding  how  far  inland  the  Zam- 
besi and  its  affluents  were  actually  navigable  by  steamers,  and 
also  of  penetrating  the  regions  north  of  that  river,  so  as  to  con- 
nect his  own  discoveries  with  those  of  Burton  and  Speke.  Both 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society  and  the  government  gave  a 
hearty  support  to  this  expedition.  Livingstone  was  made  con- 
sul, winch  gave  his  undertaking  a semi-national  character ; and 
the  most  liberal  provision  was  made  for  him  in  the  way  of  sup- 
plies, including  a small  steam  launch,  the  Ma  Robert , which 
was  sent  out  from  England  in  sections,  and  put  together  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Zambesi  River.  He  also  secured  competent  as- 
sistants in  the  persons  of  his  brother,  the  Rev.  Charles  Living- 
stone, who  had  been  living  for  some  years  in  Massachusetts, 
and  Dr.  Kirk,  an  accomplished  botanist. 

The  expedition  left  England  on  the  10th  of  March,  1858,  and 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Zambesi  River  in  May.  The  delta 
of  the  Zambesi  marks  it  as  one  of  the  most  important  rivers  in 
Africa.  The  whole  range  of  coast  from  the  Luabo  Channel  to 
Quillimane  really  belongs  to  that  river,  for  the  Quillimane  is  in 
fact  only  a branch  of  the  Zambesi,  which  takes  a direction  due 
east  at  about  sixteen  degrees  south  latitude.  Between  the  most 
westerly  entrance  to  the  Zambesi  and  Quillimane,  not  less  than 
seven  subsidiary  streams  pour  their  waters  into  the  Indian 
Ocean.  This  vast  delta  far  surpasses  that  of  the  Kile,  and,  if 
properly  cultivated,  would  undoubtedly  equal  it  in  fertility. 
The  Zambesi  itself  almost  rivals  in  magnitude  the  great  river 
of  Egypt,  and  in  some  respects  considerably  resembles  it.  Like 
the  Nile,  it  has  its  great  annual  flood,  overflowing  and  fertiliz- 
ing the  surrounding  country.  It  has  also  its  falls,  cataracts, 
and  shallows,  which  present  obstacles  to  continuous  navigation. 
The  perpendicular  rise  of  the  Zambesi,  in  a portion  of  its  course 


336  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NY  ASS  A. 


where  it  is  compressed  between  lofty  hills,  is  eighty  feet,  but 
in  the  dry  season  there  are  parts  of  the  river  where  there  are 
only  eighteen  inches  of  water.  Livingstone’s  party  had  re- 
peatedly to  drag  their  steamer  over  such  shallows.  To  navi- 
gate the  river  throughout  the  whole  year,  vessels  of  only  eigh- 
teen inches’  draught  would  be  required ; but,  in  the  flood  sea- 
son, the  cataracts  are  obliterated  by  the  rise  of  the  waters,  and 
steamers  of  considerable  burden  could  be  used,  the  rapidity  of 
the  current,  however,  demanding  a high  amount  of  power.  In 
the  long  spaces  between  the  cataracts  vessels  of  several  feet 
draught  might  ply  at  almost  any  time  ; but  this  would  imply 
loading  and  unloading,  and  a considerable  number  of  such 
vessels  working  in  connection. 

The  delta  reaches  from  eighty  to  a hundred  miles  inland, 
and  the  soil  is  so  rich  that  cotton  might  be  cultivated  to  an 
immense  extent ; while  there  is  an  area,  eighty  miles  in  length 
and  flfty  in  breadth,  which,  Livingstone  says,  would,  if  prop- 
erly treated,  supply  the  whole  of  Europe  with  sugar.  Sand- 
banks and  rapids  much  impeded  the  progress  or  the  little 
steamer  at  certain  points,  while  the  amount  of  fuel  consumed 
was  enormous — said  fuel  consisting  of  blocks  of  the  finest 
ebony  and  lignum  vitse,  of  a quality  that  would  bring  six 
pounds  per  ton  in  England.  In  spite  of  all  this,  even  the 
heavy-laden  native  canoes  gained  upon  the  asthmatic  little 
craft,  which  puffed  and  panted  after  them  in  vain. 

The  scenery  is  not  interesting  in  the  lower  course  of  the 
river ; it  is  a dreary,  uninhabited  expanse  of  grassy  plains, 
with  the  round  green  tops  of  the  stately  palm-trees,  at  a 
distance,  having  the  appearance  of  being  suspended  in  the  air. 
The  broad  river  has  many  low  islands,  on  which  are  to  be  seen 
large  flocks  of  water-fowl,  such  as  geese,  spoonbills,  herons, 
and  flamingoes ; repulsive  crocodiles,  with  open  jaws,  sleep 
and  bask  in  the  sun  on  the  low  banks,  and,  hearing  any  un- 
wonted sound,  glide  quietly  into  the  stream.  “ The  hippopot- 
amus, having  selected  some  still  reach  of  the  river  to  spend 
the  day  in,  rises  from  the  bottom,  where  he  has  been  enjoying 
his  morning  bath  after  the  labors  of  the  night  on  shore,  blows 
a puff  of  spray  out  of  his  nostrils,  shakes  the  water  out  of  his 
ears,  puts  up  his  enormous  snout  and  yawns — sounding  a loud 
alarm  to  the  rest  of  the  herd,  if  he  should  feel  that  there  is 
any  occasion ; his  notes  being  like  those  of  a monster  bas- 
soon.” 

In  the  upper  coiirse  of  the  Zambesi,  and  among  the  hills, 
the  scenery  is  very  striking,  and  it  is  rendered  still  more  so  by 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYASSA.  337 


the  variety  and  beauty  of  the  birds : — “ The  birds,  from  the 
novelty  of  their  notes  and  plumage,  arrest  the  attention  of  a 
traveller  perhaps  more  than  the  peculiarities  of  the  scenery. 
The  dark  woods  resound  with  the  lively  and  exultant  song  of 
the  kinglmnter  ( Halcyon  striolata ),  as  he  sits  perched  on  high 
among  the  trees.  As  the  steamer  moves  on  through  the  wind- 
ing chaunel,  a pretty  little  heron  or  bright  kingfisher  darts  out 
in  alarm  from  the  edge  of  the  bank,  flies  on  ahead  a short 
distance,  and  settles  quietly  down,  to  be  again  frightened  off 
in  a few  seconds  as  we  approach.  The  magnificent  fish-hawk 
( Ilalicetus  vocAfer)  sits  on  the  top  of  a mangrove-tree,  digest- 
ing his  morning  meal,  and  is  clearly  unwilling  to  stir  until  the 
imminence  of  danger  compels  him  at  last  to  spread  his  great 
wings  for  flight.  The  glossy  ibis,  acute  of  ear  to  a remarkable 
degree,  hears  from  afar  the  unwonted  sound  of  the  paddles, 
and,  springing  from  the  mud  where  his  family  has  been  quietly 
feasting,  is  off,  screaming  out  his  loud,  harsh,  and  defiant  ha! 
ha!  ha!  long  before  the  danger  is  near. 

“The  winter  birds  of  passage,  such  as  the  yellow  wagtail 
and  blue  arougo  shrikes,  have  all  gone,  and  other  kinds  have 
come ; the  brown  kite  with  his  piping  like  a boatswain’s 
whistle,  the  spotted  cuckoo  with  a call  like  4 pula,’  and  the 
roller  and  hornbill  with  their  loud,  high  notes,  are  occasionally 
distinctly  heard,  though  generally  this  harsher  music  is  half 
drowned  in  the  volume  of  sweet  sounds  poured  forth  from 
many  a throbbing  throat,  which  makes  an  African  Christinas 
seem  like  an  English  May.  Some  birds  of  the  weaver  kind 
have  laid  aside  their  winter  garments  of  a sober  brown,  and 
appear  in  a gay  summer  dress  of  scarlet  and  jet  black  ; others 
have  passed  from  green  to  bright  yellow,  with  patches  like 
black  velvet.  The  brisk  little  cock  whydah-bird  with  a pink 
bill,  after  assuming  his  summer  garb  of  black  and  white,  has 
graceful  plumes  attached  to  his  new  coat ; his  finery,  as  some 
believe,  is  to  please  at  least  seven  hen  birds  with  which  he  is 
said  to  live.  Birds  of  song  are  not  entirely  confined  to  vil- 
lages ; but  they  have  in  Africa  been  so  often  observed  to  con- 
gregate around  villages,  as  to  produce  the  impression  that  song 
and  beauty  may  have  been  intended  to  please  the  eye  and  ear 
of  man,  for  it  is  only  when  we  approach  the  haunts  of  men 
that  we  know  that  the  time  of  the  singing  of  birds  is  come. 
A red-throated  black  weaver  bird  comes  in  flocks  a little  later, 
wearing  a long  train  of  magnificent  plumes,  which  seem  to  be 
greatly  in  his  way  when  working  for  his  dinner  among  the 
long  grass.  A g< >atsucker,  or  niglit-j  ar  ( Cometornis  vexillarius ), 


338  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYA88A. 


only  ten  inches  long  from  head  to  tail,  also  attracts  the  eye  in 
November  by  a couple  of  feathers  twenty-six  inches  long  in 
the  middle  of  each  wing,  the  ninth  and  tenth  from  the  outside. 
They  give  a slow,  wavy  motion  to  the  wings,  and  evidently 
retard  his  flight,  for  at  other  times  he  flies  so  quick  that  no 
boy  could  hit  him  with  a stone.  The  natives  can  kill  a hare 
bv  throwing  a club,  and  make  good  running  shots ; but  no  one 
ever  struck  a night-jar  in  common  dress,  though  in  the  evening 
twilight  they  settle  close  to  one’s  feet.  What  may  be  the 
object  of  the  flight  of  the  male  bird  being  retarded  we  cannot 
tell.  The  males  alone  possess  these  feathers,  and  only  for  a 
time.” 

The  honey-guide  is  remarkable  for  its  peculiar  intelligence  : 
— “ How  is  it  that  every  member  of  its  family  has  learned 
that  all  men,  white  or  black,  are  fond  of  honey  \ The  instant 
the  little  fellow  gets  a glimpse  of  a man,  he  hastens  to  greet 
him  with  the  hearty  invitation  to  come  to  a beehive  and  take 
some  honey.  lie  flies  on  in  the  proper  direction,  perches  on  a 
tree,  and  looks  back  to  see  if  you  are  following ; then  on  to 
another  and  another,  until  he  guides  you  to  the  spot.  If  you 
do  not  accept  his  first  invitation,  he  follows  you  with  pressing 
importunities — quite  as  anxious  to  lure  the  stranger  to  the 
beehive  as  other  birds  are  to  draw  him  away  from  their  own 
nests.  Except  when  on  the  march,  our  men  were  sure  to 
accept  the  invitation,  and  manifested  their  acquiescence  by  a 
peculiar  responsive  whistle,  meaning,  as  they  said,  4 All  right, 
go  ahead  ; we  are  coming.’  The  bird  never  deceived  them, 
but  always  guided  them  to  a hive  of  bees,  though  some  had 
but  little  honey  in  store.” 

The  bird  which  guards  the  buffalo  and  the  rhinoceros  is  also 
very  intelligent : 44  The  grass  is  often  so  tall  and  dense  that 
one  could  go  close  up  to  these  animals  quite  unperceived ; but 
the  guardian  bird,  sitting  on  the  beast,  sees  the  approach  of 
danger,  flaps  its  wings  and  screams,  which  causes  its  bulky 
charge  to  rush  off  from  a foe  he  has  neither  seen  nor  heard  ; 
for  his  reward  the  vigilant  little  watcher  has  the  pick  of  the 
parasites  of  his  fat  friend.” 

The  Portuguese  have  two  stations  or  forts  on  the  Zambesi — 
one  at  Senna,  the  other  at  Tete ; but  they  hold  them  by  suffer- 
ance rather  than  by  prestige  or  power,  for  they  have  to  pay  a 
kind  of  blackmail  in  presents  to  the  neighboring  tribes  for 
permission  to  reside  in  the  country  ; nor  do  the  commercial 
advantages  of  these  settlements  appear  to  compensate  for  the 
cost  of  their  maintenance.  Yet  the  natural  resources  of  the 


ZAMBESI  BLACKS] 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NT  ASS  A.  339 

district  are  very  great.  Indigo  grows  wild  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  the  streets  of  Tete  are  overgrown  with  the  plant  as 
a weed.  The  sugar-cane  thrives  abundantly  almost  in  a state 
of  wildness.  Caoutchouc  and  calumba-root,  used  as  a mordant 
for  colors,  are  found  in  great  plenty.  Iron  ore  is  worked  by 
the  natives,  and  excellent  coal  is  found  in  large  quantity — 
there  being  one  seam  which  was  seen  cropping  out  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  which  measures  five  feet  in  thickness.  The 
produce  of  the  gold-washings  on  the  Zambesi  was  at  one  time 
considerable,  but  the  tributaries  have  never  been  “ pros- 
pected,” nor  has  any  but  the  rudest  machinery  ever  been  used. 

Steaming  slowly  up  the  river,  Livingstone  reached  Tete  on 
the  8th  of  September,  and  here  he  found  the  faithful  Mako- 
lolos  who  accompanied  him  thus  far  from  Linyanti  in  1856. 
They  were  still  waiting  for  him,  and  were  almost  overwhelmed 
with  delight  at  his  appearance.  Some  fell  upon  his  neck, 
while  others  stood  off  at  a respectful  distance,  saying : “ Do 
not  touch  him  : yon  will  spoil  his  new  clothes  ! 55 

Next  to  the  discovery  of  the  great  Nyassa  Lake,  the  most 
important  work  accomplished  by  this  expedition  was  the 
exploration  of  the  river  Shire,  the  great  northern  tributary  of 
the  Zambesi,  which  it  joins  about  a hundred  miles  from  the 
sea.  The  Portuguese  do  not  seem  to  have  known  anything  of 
this  stream,  being  deterred  from  attempting  its  navigation  by 
the  dense  vegetation  which  clogs  its  mouth  ; and  Livingstone 
was  probably  the  first  European  that  ever  ascended  it.  He 
entered  it  in  January,  1859,  and  steamed  up  it  about  a hun- 
dred miles,  when  further  progress  was  prevented  by  a series 
of  cataracts  and  rapids  nearly  40  miles  long,  the  first  and  most 
important  of  which  Livingstone  named  after  Sir  Roderick 
Murchison,  the  President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society. 
It  w*as  not  considered  prudent  on  this  occasion  to  push  beyond 
the  Murchison  Falls ; so  the  party  returned  to  Tete  for  further 


arch,  Livingstone,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Kirk,  again 
ascended  the  river,  with  the  determination  to  leave  the  steamer 
at  the  foot  of  the  falls,  and  push  on  afoot  to  Lake  Shirwa. 
Ilis  starting-point  was  the  village  of  Chibisa,  the  chief  of  the 
most  important  of  the  surrounding  tribes,  who  at  once  entered 
into  friendly  negotiations,  showing  considerable  intelligence, 
shrewdness,  and  good-feeling.  He  was  a firm  believer  in  the 
special  bestowment  of  Divine  favor  upon  kings.  Before  his 
father  died,  he  said,  he  was  himself  but  a common  man  ; but 
when  he  succeeded  to  the  high  office,  he  was  conscious  of 


310  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NYASSA. 


power  passing  into  his  head  and  down  his  back.  lie  felt  it 
enter,  and  then  he  knew  that  he  was  a chief  possessed  of  wis- 
dom and  invested  with  authority. 

Having  left  their  steamer  as  proposed,  Livingstone  and 
Kirk,  accompanied  by  a party  of  natives,  proceeded  on  foot  to 
Lake  Shirwa,  reaching  it  on  the  18th  of  April.  They  found  it 
to  be  a large  body  of  water,  bitter  and  slightly  brackish,  but 
abounding  in  fish,  crocodiles,  and  hippopotami.  The  lake  is 
about  60  miles  long  and  30  broad,  and  is  surrounded  by  lofty 
mountains,  the  shores  being  fringed  with  reeds  and  papyrus- 
plants.  It  is  about  1,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
has  no  outlet,  though  it  is  only  separated  from  Lake  Nyassa 
by  a narrow  strip  of  land,  over  which  the  surplus  water  of  the 
Shiny  a probably  runs  in  seasons  of  flood.  The  people  living 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake  had  never  heard  of  the  existence  of 
white  men  ; and  when  the  exploring  party  first  appeared,  the 
men  were  excessively  timid,  the  women  fled  into  the  huts  and 
closed  the  doors,  and  even  the  hens  took  wing  and  left  their 
chickens  in  dismay. 

Livingstone’s  discovery  of  Lake  Nyassa  would  alone  give 
him  a high  place  among  African  explorers,  even  if  he  had 
accomplished  nothing  more.  Captain  Burton  would  probably 
have  been  the  first  to  reach  it,  if  he  had  not  been  misled  by 
erroneous  reports;  for  having  been  told  by  the  Arabs  that  the 
lake  which  he  had  been  directed  by  his  instructions  to  seek, 
was  small  and  important,  he  changed  his  course  from  west  to 
northwest  and  came  upon  Lake  Tanganyika  instead.  Living- 
stone accomplished  the  journey  to  the  lake  by  an  overland 
march  of  twenty  days  from  Chibisa’s  village,  reaching  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  on  the  16th  of  September,  1859,  at  the  point 
where  the  Shire  issues  from  it  in  lat.  14°  25'  S.  This  is  its 
extreme  southern  end.  The  length  of  the  lake  is  about  200 
miles,  and  its  breadth  between  50  and  60.  It  is  liable  to  sud- 
den and  violent  storms,  in  one  of  which  the  travellers  were 
nearly  shipwrecked  on  the  occasion  of  their  second  visit.  Its 
depth  is  so  nearly  the  same  throughout  the  year,  that  there 
is  only  a difference  of  three  feet  between  its  highest  and  low- 
est condition,  although  it  receives  the  waters  of  five  rivers  on 
its  western  side.  The  principal  affluent  is  at  the  northern  ex- 
tremity. The  travellers  remained  but  a short  time  at  Lake 
Nyassa,  which  they  did  not  attempt  at  this  time  to  explore.  Oil 
the  return  journey,  which  took  forty  days  ; they  suffered  many 
privations  and  were  accidently  poisoned  by  eating  some  cas- 
sava roots  which  had  not  been  previously  prepared  for  food. 


LIVINGSTONE ’£  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYASSA.  341 


On  the  2d  of  February,  1860,  the  entire  party  were  once  more 
assembled  at  Tete. 

Livingstone’s  narrative  of  this  expedition  covers  a period  of 
nearly  six  years,  during  which  he  was  constantly  extending  the 
area  of  his  explorations  ; but  as  these  were  over  a region  with 
the  general  features  ot  which  he  has  already  made  us  familiar, 
and"  as  his  record  lacks  the  interest  of  his  earlier  travels, 
we  will  here  only  mention  the  principal  journeys  which  he 
undertook,  and  then  summarize  the  results  of  his  observa- 
tions. 

In  May,  I860,  he  left  Tete  for  the  Upper  Zambesi  Valley, 
chiefly  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  back  the  faithful  Makololo 
who  had  left  their  homes  with  him  four  years  before.  They 
followed  nearly  the  same  route  by  which  they  had  come  east- 
ward in  1856,  and  performed  the  journey  in  safety.  At  Ses- 
lieke  he  found  the  chief  Sekeletu  still  alive  but  suffering  from 
leprosy ; and  at  Linyanti  he  found  his  wagon  with  his  scien- 
tific instruments  and  some  goods,  standing  just  as  he  had  left  it 
seven  years  previously.  On  the  return  to  Tete  he  lost  his  in- 
struments and  Dr.  Kirk’s  botanical  collection,  by  trying  to  pass 
the  Kebrabasa  Rapids  in  canoes  ; and  subsequently  in  going  in 
the  Ala  Robert  to  the  mouth  of  the  Zambezi,  the  leaky  craft 
grounded  on  a sand  bank  and  soon  went  to  pieces.  The  Pio- 
neer, a stronger  and  better  steamer,  was  sent  out  from  England 
to  replace  it.  In  July,  1861,  he  made  another  journey  to  lake 
Shirvva,  in  company  with  Bishop  Mackenzie  of  the  Universi- 
ties mission  ; and  in  August  of  the  same  year  reached  Lake 
Nyassa  a second  time,  by  having  a four-oared  boat  carried 
around  the  Murcliision  Falls  and  rapids  and  paddling  up  the 
fShire.  He  spent  two  months  in  exploring  the  lake,  in  com- 
pany with  his  brother  and  Dr.  Kirk,  but  only  succeeded  in 
skirting  a portion  of  the  western  shore.  In  June,  1862,  he 
made  an  attempt  to  explore  the  Rovuma  River,  which  enters 
the  Indian  Ocean  between  lat.  10°  and  11°  S.,  north  of  the 
Portuguese  territory  ; and  succeeded  in  ascending  it  to  a point 
156  miles  from  the  sea.  Two  months  prior  to  this  latter  jour- 
ney, on  the  27th  of  April,  Mrs.  Livingstone  died  at  Sliupanga, 
a victim  to  the  terrible  climate  of  the  Lower  Zambesi.  Finally, 
in  August,  September,  and  October,  1863,  Livingstone,  with 
only  a party  of  natives,  made  a third  journey  to  Lake 
Nyassa,  and  made  a desperate  effort  to  travel  entirely  round  it, 
but  was  compelled  to  turn  back  after  marching  about  500  miles 
on  account  of  the  impossibility  of  procuring  food,  and  the  in- 
subordination of  his  followers.  During  the  latter  part  of  his 


342  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NTASSA. 


journey,  he  was  on  the  high-road  from  Lake  Nyassa  to  Caz- 
einbe — Magyar’s  “ Molnwa  kingdom.” 

Five  years  having  now  been  spent  in  laborious  exploration, 
attended  with  many  and  great  difficulties,  and  resulting,  in 
connection  with  the  unfortunate  Universities  Mission,  in  the  loss 
of  some  valuable  lives,  orders  were  transmitted  by  the  Govern- 
ment that  the  expedition  should  be  withdrawn,  and  that  Liv- 
ingstone should  return  to  England.  The  Government  had 
been  disappointed  in  various  particulars — in  the  commercial 
capabilities  both  of  the  Zambesi  and  Kovuma ; in  regard  to 
the  prevalence  of  the  slave-trade,  and  the  extreme  difficulty  of 
suppressing  it;  in  the  lamentable  failure  of  the  Universities 
Mission ; and  in  the  generally  unsettled  and  dangerous  state  of 
the  country.  Livingstone,  too,  was  far  from  satisfied  with  the 
geographical  results  of  his  labors ; and  it  was  with  little  re- 
luctance than  in  February,  1864,  he  left  the  Zambesi  and  sailed 
for  England  via  Zanzibar  and  Bombay. 

The  river  Shire,  the  discovery  and  exploration  of  which  was, 
as  we  have  said,  one  of  the  most  important  results  of  the  ex- 
pedition, is  not  so  wide  as  the  Zambesi,  but  it  is  deeper,  and 
is  more  easily  navigated.  Its  depth  is  not  less  than  five  feet, 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  for  a distance  of  two  hundred  miles 
from  the  sea,  and  it  drains  an  exceedingly  fertile  valley  flanked 
by  finely-wooded  hills.  In  some  places  the  stream  runs  with 
great  velocity,  thus  furnishing  a water-power  which  might  be 
extensively  utilized.  Dr.  Livingstone,  in  all  his  travels,  has 
not  anywhere  observed  so  large  an  extent  and  so  high  a degree 
of  cultivation.  Maize,  yams,  hemp,  pumpkins,  sweet  potatoes, 
peas,  sugar-cane,  lemons,  ginger,  tobacco,  and  cotton  abounded  ; 
and  he  is  of  opinion  that  the  capability  of  the  country  for  the 
production  of  cotton  can  scarcely  be  exaggerated.  He  sent 
samples  to  Manchester,  where  it  was  pronounced  to  be  of  the 
finest  quality,  and  300  lbs.  of  clean  cotton  wool  were  pur- 
chased for  less  than  a penny  per  pound.  It  also  appears  that 
free  labor  is  as  easily  procured  here  as  in  any  country  in  the 
world.  It  would  be  difficult  to  over-estimate  the  importance 
of  Livingstone’s  discovery  of  this  rich  and  densely  populated 
district,  with  its  great  navigable  river.  In  a despatch  to  the 
English  Foreign  Office  he  says,  “ We  have  opened  a cotton  and 
sugar  district  of  great  and  unknown  extent,  and  which  really 
seems  to  afford  reasonable  prospect  of  great  commercial  bene- 
fit to  our  own  country;  it  presents  facilities  for  commanding  a 
large  section  of  the  slave-market  on  the  coast,  and  offers  a fair 
hope  of  its  suppression  by  lawful  commerce.” 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NT  ASS  A.  343 


In  the  basin  of  the  Shire  there  is  a series  of  terraces — the 
first  being  below  the  Murchison  Falls  ; the  second  is  a plateau 
of  two  thousand,  and  the  third  of  three  thousand,  feet  of  ele- 
vation. There  must  therefore  be  a great  variety  of  climate; 
but  cotton  is  extensively  cultivated  on  all  the  terraces,  and  the 
people  were  to  be  observed  everywhere  picking,  cleaning,  or 
spinning  it.  The  inhabitants  of  this  district  have  no  cattle, 
but  the  number  of  wild  animals  is  prodigious,  and  great  herds 
of  elephants  roam  over  the  marshes  and  plains. 

It  was  on  one  of  the  elevated  plateaux  of  the  Shire  valley 
that  the  enterprise  known  as  the  Universities  Mission  had  its 
first  station,  and  here  was  the  residence  of  the  late  lamented 
Bishop  Mackenzie.  The  remains  of  this  most  devoted  man  lie 
under  the  shade  of  one  of  the  giants  of  the  African  forest, 
and  within  a few  yards  of  the  rippling  waters  of  the  Shire. 
Any  man,  however  ^ell-meaning,  may  fall  into  mistake.  Tak- 
ing a false  estimate  of  his  position,  this  zealous  Christian  pas- 
tor unhappily  gave  an  active  armed  support  to  a tribe  which 
had  been  attacked  by  another  with  the  determination  of  re- 
ducing it  to  slavery.  lie  thus  engaged  in  a native  war,  and 
converted  a religious  mission,  the  only  object  of  which  was  to 
instruct  and  civilize  the  people,  into  an  association  for  the  for- 
cible liberation  of  slaves.  But  the  country  was  at  the  time  in 
a chronic  state  of  warfare  on  account  of  the  slave-trade,  and 
therefore  utterly  unsuited  to  the  purpose  of  the  benevolent 
missionary  experiment  projected  by  the  Universities.  The  at- 
tempt was  therefore  abandoned  a few  months  after  the  death 
of  Bishop  Mackenzie  by  fever,  many  privations  and  much  suf- 
fering having  been  endured  by  all  connected  with  it. 

Livingstone  declares  that  he  had  never  before  in  Africa  seen 
anything  like  so  dense  a population  as  was  found  on  the  shores 
of  Lake  Nyassa;  there  is  an  almost  unbroken  chain  of  vil- 
lages towards  the  south  end  of  it.  Crowds  assembled  to  gaze 
on  the  unwonted  spectacle  of  boat  under  sail ; and  whenever 
the  explorers  landed,  they  were  surrounded  by  men,  women, 
and  children,  all  eager  to  see  the  “ cliirombo,”  or  wild  animals, 
feed.  But  these  people  were  inoffensive  in  their  curiosity,  sel- 
dom doing  more  than  slily  lifting  the  edges  of  the  tent  and 
peeping  in. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Nyassa  great  care  is  bestowed  on  the 
graves  of  the  dead.  The  burying-grounds  are  well  protected; 
there  are  wide  paths  through  them  ; and  great  fig-trees  cast 
their  deep  shadows  over  these  places  of  mortal  repose.  The 
graves  of  the  sexes  were  distinguished  by  the  various  imple- 


344:  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NYASSA. 


raents  or  utensils  which  their  occupants  had  used  during  life  ; 
but  they  were  all  broken.  A piece  of  net  or  broken  paddle  told 
that  a fisherman  slept  below  ; and  the  graves  of  women  were 
marked  by  the  wooden  mortar  and 
heavy  pestle  which  are  used  in 
pounding  corn,  or  by  the  basket 
in  which  the  meal  is  sifted.  All 
had  placed  over  them  fractured 
calabashes  and  pots  to  signify  that 
now  the  need  of  daily  food  was 
at  an  end  forever. 

The  chiefs  of  the  district  were 
remarkable  for  their  courtesy  and 
the  genuine  hospitality  which  they 
exhibit  toward  strangers.  One  of 
them  whom  the  travellers  found 
Hottentot  grave.  in  his  stockade,  entered  frankly 

and  politely  into  conversation  with 
them,  aud  not  only  pressed  food  upon  them,  but,  pointing  to  his 
iron  bracelet,  richly  inlaid  with  copper,  inquired/4  Do  they  wear 
such  things  in  your  country  ? ” and  on  being  told  that  they 
were  unknown,  immediately  took  itfrom  his  arm  and  presented 
it  to  Livingstone,  his  wife  doing  the  same  with  hers. 

The  exploring  party  found  the  land  well-cultivated  in  all 
these  districts.  Bishop  Mackenzie  says,  “ I came  out  here  to 
teach  these  people  agriculture,  but  I find  they  kuow  far  more 
about  it  than  I do.”  In  the  whole  country,  men,  women  and 
boys  were  all  eager  to  work  in  the  fields  for  hire  ; and  indeed 
not  in  the  fields  only,  but  to  be  hired  for  any  description  of 
labor  which  they  could  accomplish.  One  of  the  exploring 
party,  for  example,  had  a tattered  pair  of  trousers,  and  one 
leg  of  these  purchased  the  services  of  a man  to  carry  a heavy 
load  for  a whole  day,  and  lie  thought  himself  well  enough 
paid ; on  the  second  day  another  man  was  hired  for  the  other 
leg;  and  the  remains  of  the  garment,  including  the  buttons, 
secured  the  services  of  another  for  the  third.  The  fruitfulness 
of  the  country  renders  work  in  the  fields  very  light,  and  the 
task  of  procuring  subsistence  is  far  from  difficult. 

The  manufacture  of  iron  tools  is  the  staple  industry  of  the 
highlands  of  the  Nyassa.  Every  village  has  its  smelting- 
house,  charcoal  burners,  aud  blacksmiths,  who  make  the  brace- 
lets and  anklets  in  general  use.  British  iron  is  not  esteemed, 
and  is  pronounced  “ rotten.”  Specimens  of  hoes  have  been 
pronounced  in  Birmingham  to  be  nearly  equal  to  the  best 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYA8SA.  345 


Swedish  iron,  and  the  metal  was  found  to  be  of  so  high  a 
quality  that  an  Enfield  rifie  was  made  of  it.  Pottery  is  also 
manufactured  in  the  villages  round  the  Lakes  Sliirwa  and 
Nyassa,  and  in  other  places. 

In  those  districts  to  which  the  slave-trade  had  not  penetrated, 
the  social  and  political  state  of  the  country  visited  by  Dr. 
Livingstone  and  his  party  presented  a marked  contrast  to  the 
Western  Coast  of  Africa,  and  to  the  eastern  region  traversed 
by  Burton  and  Speke.  The  Makololo  are  the  most  intelligent 
pi  all  the  tribes  inhabiting  the  region  of  the  Zambesi.  Poly- 
gamy is  universal  in  this  part  of  Africa,  and  the  women 
warmly  approve  of  it.  But  the  husbands  are  considerably 
hen-necked.  The  travellers,  endeavoring  on  one  occasion  to 
purchase  a goat,  had  nearly  concluded  the  bargain,  when  a 
wife  came  forward  and  said  to  her  husband,  “ You  appear  as 
if  you  were  unmarried,  selling  a goat  without  consulting  your 
wife ! What  sort  of  a man  are  you  f ” The  party  tried  to  per- 
suade the  crestfallen  husband  to  pluck  up  a little  spirit  and  to 
close  the  transaction ; but  he  exclaimed,  “ No,  no ; it  is  bad 
enough  as  it  is  ; I have  already  brought  a hornet’s  nest  about 
my  ears.”  The  travellers  say,  “ We  have  known  a wife  order 
her  husband  not  to  sell  a fowl,  merely,  as  we  supposed,  to 
prove  to  11s  that  she  had  the  upper  hand.” 

The  Makololo  ladies,  having  domestic  servants  to  wait  on 
them  and  perform  the  principal  part  of  the  household  work, 
have  abundance  of  leisure,  which  they  are  sometimes  at  a loss 
to  know  how  to  employ.  The  men  declare  that  their  two  prin- 
cipal modes  of  killing  time  are  sipping  beer  and  smoking  bang, 
or  Indian  hemp.  The  husbands  indulge  freely  in  these  pas- 
times, but  they  do  not  like  their  wives  to  follow  their  example. 
The  dress  of  the  women  consists  of  a species  of  kilt  and  mantle 
and  a profusion  of  bead  and  brass  ornaments.  The  “ principal 
wife  of  one  of  the  most  powerful  chiefs  wore  eighteen  heavy 
brass  rings  on  each  leg,  and  three  of  copper  under  each  knee, 
nineteen  brass  rings  on  her  left  arm  and  eight  of  brass  and 
copper  on  her  right,  together  with  a large  ivory  ring  above 
each  elbow.  The  weight  of  the  rings,  of  course  seriously  im- 
peded her  gait ; but  as  they  were  the  fashion  she  disregarded 
that.  The  most  extraordinary  device,  in  this  connection,  is  the 
pelele — a ring  which  causes  the  upper  lip  to  project  two  inches 
beyond  the  tip  of  the  nose,  giving  to  the  mouth  the  elongation 
and  somewhat  the  appearance  of  a duck’s  bill.  This  strange 
appendage  is  quit3  a necessity  in  order  to  any  woman’s  appear- 
ing in  public.  Plumpness  is  considered  essential  to  beauty, 


346  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NY  ASS  A. 


but  the  obesity  required  in  Uganda  would  be  considered  vul- 

tar.  The  arrangement  of  the  hair  is  a striking  peculiarity. 

ome  women  adopt  the  plan  of  spreading  it  out  over  a hoop, 
which  encircles  the  head;  others  supplement  their  own  by  ty- 
ing behind  it  bundles  of  false  hair;  some  plait  it  in  the  form 
of  horns;  and  sometimes  the  natural  hair  is  drawn  tightly  up 
from  the  forehead  in  the  form  of  a pyramid.  The 'men,  in 
many  instances,  dye  their  hair  red,  which  for  them  is  the  fash- 
ionable color.’5 

The  Zambesi  and  Nyassa  tribes  are,  in  regard  to  religion, 
monotheists;  but  in  combination  with  their  belief  in  the  ex- 
istence of  one  God,  they  also  have  a conviction  that  there  are 
other  spirits  who  may  be  induced  to  act  as  mediators  between 
Him  and  men,  and  these  may  be  influenced  by  incantations. 
They  have  a firm  belief  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul.  Liv- 
ingstone says,  “ Their  ideas  of  moral  evil  differ  in  no  respect 
from  ours ; but  they  consider  themselves  responsible  to  infer- 
ior beings  instead  of  to  the  Supreme.”  Evil  speaking,  lying,  ha- 
tred, and  disobedience  to  parents  and  neglect  of  them  are  rec- 
ognized as  sins,  as  well  as  theft,  murder,  and  adultery.  The 
only  addition  which  could  be  made  by  a missionary  to  their 
moral  code  is  the  rejection  of  polygamy.  “ All  the  Africans,” 
say  the  travellers,  “ that  we  have  met  with  here  are  as  fully 
persuaded  of  their  future  existence  as  of  their  present,”  but  they 
do  not  seem  to  associate  with  their  belief  any  idea  of  a state  of 
rewards  and  punishments. 

Their  superstitions  are  very  childish.  Belief  in  magic  is  so 
general  among  men  that  it  would  he  strange  if  it  did  not  pre- 
vail in  such  countries  as  these.  There  are  traces  of  serpent- 
worship,  and  little  images  are  suspended  as  charms  in  the  huts 
of  the  sick  and  the  dying.  If  a man  has  his  hair  cut  he  is 
careful  to  burn  it,  otherwise  an  evil  eye  might  afflict  him  with 
headache.  If  a man  plants  coffee  he  will  never  be  happy 
again,  and  no  one  can  be  persuaded  to  plant  a mango,  from  a 
belief  that  if  he  did  he  would  speedily  die.  Rain-doctors  are 
to  be  found  everywhere.  Our  travellers  sometimes  got  into 
trouble  by  putting  up  their  rain-gauge,  which  was  supposed  to 
frighten  away  the  clouds. 

There  is  not  in  this  portion  of  Africa  that  reckless  disregard 
of  human  life  which  appears  to  obtain  in  Uganda,  and  other 
northern  districts ; neither  is  the  rule  of  the  native  chiefs  so 
cruel,  although  it  is  despotic.  The  reverence  for  royalty  is 
universal.  Divination  is  freely  practised,  but  there  is  no  fetich 
worship.  A sort  of  belief  in  the  transmigration  of  squls  pre- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NTA8SA.  347 

vails.  The  spirits  of  departed  chiefs  are  supposed  to  enter 
into  lions,  which  are  consequently  never  molested,  but,  when 
met  with,  are  saluted  by  the  clapping  of  hands.  A peculiar 
object  of  superstitious  dread  is  the  chameleon,  of  which  the  na- 
tives have  an  absolute  horror.  The  English  sailors  left  in 
charge  of  the  Pioneer  during  the  temporary  absence  of  Dr. 
Livingstone,  made  a pet  of  one  of  these  animals ; and  they 
turned  it  to  good  account,  moreover.  Having  ascertained  the 
market-price  of  provisions,  they  paid  the  natives  that  and  no 
more ; if  the  traders  refused  to  leave  the  ship  unless  a larger 
sum  was  given,  the  chameleon  was  forthwith  brought  out  of 
the  cabin,  and  the  deck  was  instantly  cleared.  Mechanism  of 
all  kinds  appears  so  wonderful  that  it  is  naturally  attributed  to 
supernatural  power.  A Portuguese  took  into  the  interior  an 
assortment  of  cheap  American  clocks  which  he  meant  to  barter 
for  ivory ; but  on  setting  them  all  going  in  the  presence  of  a 
chief,  the  latter  became  so  alarmed  that  the  unfortunate 
trader  was  ordered  to  instantly  quit  the  country,  and  was 
heavily  fined  for  his  indiscretion. 

Game  is  very  abundant  in  the  region  of  the  Upper  Zambesi 
and  of  the  Shire,  the  banks  of  which  absolutely  swarm  with 
antelopes,  wTater-bucks,  elephants,  buffaloes,  rhinoceroses,  wild 
pigs,  elands,  and  zebras ; the  woods  are  full  of  guinea-fowl, 
and  the  rivers  abound  in  hippopotami.  I11  the  wantonness  of 
their  strength,  the  elephants  cause  much  destruction  by  tearing 
down  trees  with  their  trunks  merely  for  amusement.  It  is  dif- 
ficult to  bring  down  one  of  these  huge  creatures, — the  ball  of 
the  best  rifle  usually  producing  no  more  impression  upon  the 
head  than  it  would  upon  an  iron  target,  only  making  the  un- 
wieldy animal  flap  its  great  ears  and  trot  off  out  of  further 
harm’s  way.  Elephant  meat  is  not  despised  by  an  African 
sportsman,  and  is  relished  by  the  people  themselves  generally. 
The  fore  foot,  cooked  in  the  native  manner,  was  pronounced 
excellent  by  Livingstone.  A hole  is  dug  in  the  ground,  a fire 
is  made  in  it,  and  when  this  oven  is  thoroughly  heated,  the 
foot  is  placed  in  it,  and  covered  with  hot  ashes  ; a fire  is  then 
made  above  it  and  kept  up  during  the  night,  and  a dish  will  be 
ready  for  the  morning’s  meal  which  would  satisfy  the  most 
fastidious  of  epicures.  The  trunk  and  tongue  are  also  good 
when  prepared  in  the  same  manner.  Livingstone  says,  “ Eng- 
lish sportsmen,  although  first-rate  shots  at  home,  are* notorious 
for  the  number  of  their  misses  on  first  trying  to  shoot  in  Africa. 
Everything  is  on  such  a large  scale,  and  there  is  such  a glare 
of  bright  sunlight,  that  some  time  is  required  to  enable  them 


343  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  N7AS8A. 


to  judge  of  distances.  6 Is  it  wounded  ? ’ inquired  a gentleman 
of  liis  dark  attendant,  after  firing  at  an  antelope.  ‘ Yes  ! the 
ball  went  right  into  his  heart.’  These  mortal  wounds  never 
proving  fatal,  he  desired  a friend  who  understood  the  language 
to  explain  to  the  man  that  lie  preferred  the  truth  in  every  case. 
‘ He  is  my  father,’  replied  the  native,  ‘ and  I thought  he  would 
be  displeased  if  I told  him  that  he  never  hits  at  all.’  ” 

Crocodiles  are  very  numerous  in  the  river  Shire.  The 
travellers  counted  sixty-seven  of  them,  on  one  occasion,  baskiug 
on  the  same  bank.  The  dead  body  of  a boy  floated  past  the 
Pioneer , and  a prodigious  crocodile  rushed  at  it  with  the  speed 
of  a greyhound,  caught  and  “ shook  it  as  a terrier  dog  would  a 
rat,”  and  others  immediately  dashed  at  the  body,  making  the 
water  foam  by  the  action  of  their  powerful  tails.  Women  are 
frequently  seized  by  these  creatures  while  drawing  water,  and 
the  protection  of  a fence  is  required  to  keep  off  the  crocodiles 
from  the  river’s  brink.  The  attempts  of  the  party  to  catch  any 
of  theso  reptiles  were  not  very  successful.  They  were  quite 
ready  to  take  the  bait — and  they  took  it,  flattening  the  strongest 
hooks  with  their  immense  jaws  and  getting  away. 

Droughts  at  particular  seasons  are  prevalent  in  every  part 
of  the  interior  of  Africa,  with  the  exception  of  the  rainy  zone 
of  the  equatorial  region.  They  extend  over  areas  of  from  one 
to  three  hundred  miles.  Dr.  Livingstone’s  inquiries  led  him 
to  believe  that  at  from  10°  to  15°  south  latitude  they  may  be  ex- 
pected to  occur  once  in  every  ten  or  fifteen  years ; and  from 
15°  to  20°  south  latitude,  once  in  every  five  years.  The  cause 
of  them  is  not  understood.  The  hills  are  generally  well 
wooded,  and  they  are  clothed  with  verdure  to  their  summits; 
while  the  valleys,  where  they  are  cultivated,  are  almost  choked 
with  a most  profuse  and  rank  vegetation.  When  the  drought 
comes,  both  hill  and  valley  preseut  an  appearance  as  if  scathed 
by  fire ; the  grass  crumbles  into  powder,  and  the  leaves  drop 
discolored  from  the  trees.  The  e ffect  of  one  of  these  dry  sea- 
sons on  the  population  is  frightful.  On  his  first  journey'  up 
the  Shire  to  the  Nyassa,  Livingstone  passed  through  a populous 
and  well-cultivated  country.  Between  that  time  and  his  re- 
turn, eighteen  months  afterwards,  a drought  of  great  severity 
had  occurred,  and  the  misery  which  had  been  occasioned  by  it 
had  been  aggravated  by  a slave-huuting  expedition  which  had 
devasted  the  whole  district  almost  as  much  as  the  calamity 
which  had  been  inflicted  by  nature.  Instead  of  peaceful  vil- 
lages well  occupied,  there  was  scarcely  a person  to  be  seen.  The 
people  generally  had  fled  from  their  unmerciful  hunters  no 


LIVINGSTONE’S  STEAMER  SURROUNDED  BY  CROCODILES. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NY  ASS  A.  349 


less  than  from  their  barren  fields ; the  recently  dead  lay  un- 
bnricd,  innumerable  corpses  which  the  gorged  crocodiles  were 
not  able  to  devour  floated  down  the  rivers,  human  skeletons 
obstructed  the  paths,  and  the  whole  country  was  a scene  of  ap- 
palling desolation. 

In  the  dry  season,  the  tributaries  of  the  Zambesi  are  almost 
without  water.  The  Zungwe  was  traced  up  to  the  foot  of  the 
Batoka  highlands,  which  the  travellers  ascended  to  the  height 
of  three  thousand  feet,  and  thus  obtained  a magnificent  pano- 
ramic view  of  the  great  valley  of  the  Zambesi,  of  which  the 
cultivated  portions  are  so  small  that  the  country  appeared  to  be 
nearly  all  forest  interspersed  with  a few  grassy  glades.  The 
great  falls  of  the  Zambesi — to  wdiich,  on  the  occasion  of 
his  first  visit  in  1855,  Dr.  Livingstone  gave  the  name  of  the 
Victoria  Falls — were  again  visited  on  this  his  second  expedi- 
tion, and  he  was  thus  enabled  more  fully  to  examine  them. 
Without  question,  they  constitute  the  most  wonderful  water- 
fall in  the  world.  The  name  by  which  they  are  known  among 
the  natives  is  Mosi-oatunya,  or  “smoke  sounding.”  Their 
fame  had  extended  to  a long  distance,  for  when  Dr.  Living- 
stone was  on  an  excursion  in  the  interior,  in  1851,  a chief  who 
resided  two  hundred  miles  from  them  asked,  “ Have  you  any 
smoke-soundings  in  your  country  ? ” When  the  river  is  in 
flood,  the  columns  of  vapor,  resplendent  in  the  morning  sun 
with  double,  and  sometimes  triple,  rainbows,  are  visible  for  a 
distance  of  ten  miles.  These  immense  columns  are  caused  by 
a sudden  compression  of  the  water,  and  its  being  forced 
through  a narrow  wedge-like  fissure.  The  fall  probably  orig- 
inated in  an  earthquake  which  produced  a deep  transverse 
crack  in  the  bed  of  the  river — which  is  a mass  of  hard  basal- 
tic rock,  and  which  is  prolonged  from  the  left  bank  for  thirty 
or  forty  miles.  His  closer  examination  on  this  visit  enabled 
Livingstone  to  add  some  interesting  particulars  to  the  long  de- 
scription which  we  have  already  quoted  in  a previous  chapter. 

“ It  is  rather  a hopeless  task,”  he  says,  “ to  endeavor  to  con- 
vey an  idea  of  it  in  words,  since,  as  was  remarked  on  the 
spot,  an  accomplished  painter,  even  by  a number  of  views, 
could  impart  but  a faint  impression  of  the  glorious  scene.  The 
probable  mode  of  its  formation  may,  perhaps,  help  to  the  con- 
ception of  its  peculiar  shape.  Niagara  has  been  formed  by  a 
wearing  back  of  the  rock  over  which  the  river  falls;  and  dur- 
ing a long  course  of  ages,  it  has  gradually  receded,  and  left  a 
broad,  deep,  and  pretty  straight  trough  in  front.  It  goes  011 
wearing  back  daily,  and  may  yet  discharge  the  lakes  from 


350  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYASSA . 


which  its  river — the  St.  Lawrence — flows.  But  the  Victoria 
Falls  have  been  formed  by  a crack  right  across  the  river,  in  the 
hard,  black,  basaltic  rock  which  there  formed  the  bed  of  the 
Zambesi.  The  lips  of  the  crack  are  still  quite  sharp,  save 
about  three  feet  of  the  edge  over  which  the  river  falls.  The 
walls  go  sheer  down  from  the  lips  without  any  projecting  crag, 
, or  symptom  of  stratification  or  dislocation.  When  the  mighty 
rift  occurred  no  change  of  level  took  place  in  the  two  parts  of 
the  bed  of  the  river  thus  rent  asunder,  consequently  in  coming 
down  the  river  to  Garden  Island,  the  water  suddenly  disap- 
pears, and  we  see  the  opposite  side  of  the  cleft,  with  grass  and 
trees  growing  where  once  the  river  ran,  on  the  same  level  as 
that  part  of  its  bed  on  which  we  sail.  The  first  crack  is,  in 
length,  a few  yards  more  thau  the  breadth  of  the  Zambesi, 
which  by  measurement  we  found  to  be  a little  over  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  sixty  yards ; but  this  number  we  resolved 
to  retain  as  indicating  the  year  in  which  the  fall  was  for  the 
first  time  carefully  examined.  The  main  stream  here  runs 
nearly  north  and  south,  and  the  cleft  across  it  is  nearly  east 
and  west.  The  depth  of  the  rift  was  measured  by  lowering  a 
line,  to  the  end  of  which  a few  bullets  and  a foot  of  white  cot- 
ton cloth  were  tied  ; one  of  us  lay  with  his  head  over  a pro- 
jecting crag,  and  watched  the  descending  calico,  till,  after  his 
companions  had  paid  out  three  hundred  and  ten  feet,  the 
weight  rested  on  a sloping  projection,  probably  fifty  feet  from 
the  water  below,  the  actual  bottom  being  still  farther  down. 
The  white  cloth  now  appeared  the  size  of  a crown -piece ; On 
measuring  the  width  of  this  deep  cleft  by  sextant,  it  was  found 
at  Garden  Island,  its  narrowest  part,  to  be  eighty  yards,  and  at 
its  broadest  somewhat  more.  Into  this  chasm,  of  twice  the 
depth  of  Niagara  Falls,  the  river,  a full  mile  wide,  rolls  with  a 
deafening  roar ; and  this  is  the  Mosi-oatunya,  or  the  Victoria 
Falls. 

“ Looking  from  Garden  Island,  down  to  the  bottom  of  the 
abyss,  nearly  half  a mile  of  water,  which  has  fallen  over  that 
portion  of  the  falls  to  our  right,  or  west  of  our  point  of  view, 
is  seen  collected  in  a narrow  channel  twenty  or  thirty  yards 
wide,  and  flowing  at  exactly  right  angles  to  its  previous  course, 
to  our  left ; while  the  other  half,  or  that  which  fell  over  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  falls,  is  seen  in  the  left  of  the  narrow 
channel  below,  coming  towards  our  right.  Both  waters  unite 
midway,  in  a fearful  boiling  whirlpool,  and  find  an  outlet  by 
a crack  situated  at  right  angles  to  the  fissure  of  the  falls.  This 
outlet  is  about  one  thousand  one  hundred  and  seventy  yards 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NT  ASS  A.  351 


from  the  western  end  of  the  chasm,  and  some  six  hundred  from 
its  eastern  end  ; the  whirlpool  is  at  its  commencement.  The 
Zambesi,  now  not  apparently  more  than  twenty  or  thirty  yards 
wide,  rushes  and  surges  south,  through  the  narrow  escape  chan- 
nel, for  one  hundred  and  thirty  yards ; then  enters  a second 
chasm  somewhat  deeper  and  nearly  parallel  with  the  first. 
Abandoning  the  bottom  of  the  eastern  half  of  this  second  chasm 
to  the  growth  of  large  trees,  it  turns  sharply  off  to  the  west, 
and  forms  a promontory,  with  the  escape  channel  at  its  point 
of  one  thousand  one  hundred  and  seventy  yards  long,  and  four 
hundred  and  sixteen  yards  broad  at  the  base.  After  reaching 
this  base,  the  river  runs  abruptly  round  the  head  of  another 
promontory,  and  flows  away  to  the  east  in  a third  chasm,  then 
glides  round  a third  promontory,  much  narrower  than  the 
rest,  and  away  back  to  the  west  in  a fourth  chasm  ; and  we 
could  see  in  the  distance  that  it  appeared  to  round  still  another 
promontory,  and  bend  once  more  in  another  chasm  toward  the 
east.  In  this  gigantic  zigzag,  yet  narrow,  trough  the  rocks  are 
all  so  sharply  cut  and  angular,  that  the  idea  at  once  arises  that 
the  hard  basaltic  trap  must  have  been  riven  into  its  present 
shape  by  a force  acting  from  beneath,  and  that  this  probably 
took  place  when  the  ancient  inland  seas  were  let  off  by  similar 
fissures  nearer  the  ocean.” 

The  whole  district  now  drained  by  the  Zambesi  and  its  tribu- 
taries was  probably,  at  one  time,  a vast  fresh-water  lake,  of 
which  there  are  many  traces  extending  over  a track  which 
reaches  from  17°  to  21°  south  latitude.  Almost  the  whole  of 
this  immense  area  is  covered  with  a bed  of  tufa,  more  or  less 
soft,  where  it  has  been  exposed  to  atmospheric  influences.  The 
waters  of  this  great  inland  sea  have  escaped  by  means  of  cracks 
produced  in  its  surrounding  boundaries,  at  some  remote  period, 
by  subterranean  agency.  The  fissure  of  the  Victoria  Falls,  for 
example,  has  probably  contributed  to  the  draining  of  an  enor- 
mous valley,  leaving  only  the  deepest  portion  of  the  original 
sea,  the  Nyassa  Lake.  Almost  all  the  African  lakes  are  com- 
paratively shallow,  and  are  the  remains  of  much  larger  bodies 
of  water.  The  climate  of  Africa  is  therefore  supposed,  and 
with  reason,  to  have  been  formerly  much  more  moist  than  it  is 
now  ; and  the  great  equatorial  lake  regions  are  being  gradually 
dried  up  by  a process  which  has  been  in  operation  for  ages. 
That  the  Nyassa  has  shrunk  in  its  area  is  proved  by  the  ex- 
istence of  varied  beaches  on  its  borders,  and  by  the  deep  clay 
6trata  through  which  several  of  its  affluents  flow. 

The  rocks  in  the  central  part  of  this  great  continent  consist 


352  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERT  OF  LAKE  NY  ASS  A. 


usually  of  a coarse  grey  sandstone,  lying  horizontally,  or  only 
very  slightly  inclined.  Within  this  extensive  sandstone  deposit 
is  a coal-field  of  vast  but  unknown  extent,  the  materials  of 
which  were  supplied  by  the  tropical  plants  which  grew  on  the 
low  shores  of  the  great  inland  sea  whose  existence  we  have  sup- 
posed probable,  and  which  must  have  undergone  many  changes. 
Yet  Africa  as  a whole  is  the  grand  type  of  a region  which  has  to 
a large  extent  preserved  its  ancient  terrestrial  conditions  dur- 
ing a period  of  indefinite  duration,  unaffected  by  any  consider- 
able changes  except  those  which  are  dependent  on  atmospheric 
and  meteoric  influences.  By  far  the  greatest  part  of  its  vast 
interior  has  been  unaffected  by  the  great  inundations  to  which 
the  other  continents  have  been  exposed.  Limestone,  we  be- 
lieve, has  not  been  found  with  marine  exuviae,  in  any  part  of 
it ; neither  has  chalk  or  flint  been  met  with.  The  surface  of 
it  is  free  from  coarse  superficial  drift.  There  are  in  it  no 
traces  of  volcanoes ; nor  has  its  surface  been  much  disturbed 
by  internal  forces,  although  in  one  or  two  places  the  primitive 
rocks  have  been  protruded  in  isolated  masses,  as  on  the  shores 
of  the  Albert  N’Yanza  and  the  great  mountain  groups  of 
Kenia  and  Kilimanjaro. 

It  was  supposed  that  the  Rovuma,  a river  some  leagues  to 
the  north,  might  afford  a more  easy  access  to  the  district  of  the 
Nyassa  than  the  Zambesi  and  the  Shire,  and  might  also  prove 
to  be  more  healthy,  and  better  fitted  for  missionary  work. 
The  valley  of  the  Rovuma,  however,  so  far  as  Livingstone  saw 
it  when  he  ascended  it  in  1863,  resembles  that  of  the  Zambesi, 
but  is  on  a smaller/ scale.  The  river  was  found  to  be  unfit  for 
navigation  for  four  mouths  in  the  year,  but,  like  the  Zambesi, 
it  might  be  available  for  commerce  for  the  other  eight  months. 
In  its  lower  course  the  river  is  a mile  wide  and  from  five  to  six 
fathoms  in  depth.  There  is  little  that  is  interesting  in  the  as- 
pect of  its  banks.  Higher  up,  the  scenery  is  described  by 
Bishop  Mackenzie  as  extremely  beautiful,  consisting  of  finely- 
wooded  hills  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  height  within  a short 
distance  of  the  river.  According  to  the  natives,  the  Rovuma 
issues  from  Lake  Nyassa,  but  none  of  them  had  ascended  the 
stream  far  enough  to  prove  it. 

Dr.  Livingstone  asserts  that  he  was  the  first  to  see  slavery  in 
its  origin  in  this  part  of  Africa,  in  which  so  many  are  first  made 
slaves,  and  also  declares  that  he  had  good  opportunities  of  trac- 
ing it  through  all  its  revolting  phases.  It  is  carried  on  in  con- 
nection with  the  trade  in  ivory,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
canoes  freighted  with  slaves  for  the  Portuguese  settlements 


LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYASSA.  353 


have  been  seen  at  a time  on  the  Upper  Zambesi.  Tribe  is 
arrayed  against  tribe  for  the  capture  of  slaves,  and  sometimes 
even  family  against  family,  and  there  are  places  in  which  every 
house  is  protected  by  a stockade.  Tribes  the  highest  in  intelli- 
gence arc  found,  in  many  instances,  to  be  morally  the  most 
degraded — men  freely  selling  their  own  wives  and  grown-up 
daughters.  On  the  shores  of  Lake  Nyassa  the  slave- merchants 
were  at  the  time  of  Dr.  Livingstone’s  visit  paying  two  yards  of 
calico,  worth  about  a shilling,  for  a bo}r,  and  four  yards  for  a 
good-looking  girl.  Where  such  practices  exist,  the  lowest 
barbarism  must  be  the  condition  of  the  people.  Livingstone 
blames  the  Portuguese  Government  for  much  of  this.  Spain, 
formerly  the  most  inveterate  of  European  offenders,  has  'taken 
to  heart  the  lesson  of  experience,  and  resolved  to  abandon  for 
ever  the  abominable  traffic  in  man  ; and  Portugal  is  now  the 
only  civilized  nation  which  gives  it  the  standing  and  protection 
of  a systematized  traffic. 

There  is  no  room  for  doubt  that  the  development  of  legiti- 
mate trade  would  prove  far  more  profitable  and  beneficial  in 
every  way  than  the  slave-trade.  The  capacity  of  the  Eastern 
Coast  of  Africa  for  a large  and  lucrative  trade  is  unquestion- 
able, and,  notwithstanding  many  discouragements,  such  trade 
has  made  considerable  progress  within  the  last  thirty  or  forty 
years.  In  1834  the  island  of  Zanzibar  possessed  little  or  no  com- 
merce ; in  1860  the  exports  of  ivory,  gum,  opal,  and  cloves, 
had  risen  to  the  value  of  $1,197,500,  and  the  total  exports  and 
imports  amounted  to  $5,002,885,  employed  twenty-five  thou- 
sand three  hundred  and  forty  tons  of  shipping,  and  this  under 
the  rule  of  a petty  Arabian  prince,  for  the  Sultan  is  really 
nothing  more.  It  may  be  long  before  the  natives  can  be  in- 
duced to  cultivate  extensively  cotton  and  sugar  for  exportation, 
but  there  are  many  valuable  natural  products  the  preparation  of 
which  for  the  European  market  requires  but  little  industry 
and  no  skill.  There  are  hard  woods  which  grow  on  the  banks 
of  the  Zambesi  and  the  Shire  which  are  very  valuable.  These 
may  be  obtained  in  any  quantity  at  the  mere  cost  of  cutting, 
and  they  can  be  transported  to  the  coast  at  all  seasons  without 
difficulty.  The  lignum-vitse  attains  a larger  size  on  the  banks 
of  the  Zambesi  than  has  ever  been  known  anywhere  else.  The 
African  ebony,  although  not  botanically  the  same  as  the  ebony 
of  commerce,  also  attains  immense  proportions,  and  is  of  a 
deeper  black.  It  abounds  on  the  Rovuma,  within  eight  miles 
of  the  sea,  as  does  the  fustic,  from  which  is  extracted  a strong 
yellow  dye. 

23 


354  LIVINGSTONE'S  DISCOVERY  OF  LAKE  NYA8SA. 


Dr.  Livingstone’s  two  expeditions  in  South  Africa  have  added 
largely  to  our  geographical  knowledge,  and  the  facts  which  lie 
supplies  are  important  and  interesting.  In  the  latter  of  the 
two  of  which  an  outline  lias  just  been  given,  lie  entered  and 
partly  explored  a region  the  hydrography  of  which  requires  to 
be  thoroughly  known  before  the  great  mystery  of  the  source  of 
the  Nile  is  completely  solved,  for  there  is  no  doubt  that  in  the 
district  of  the  equatorial  lakes  the  head-springs  of  the  mighty 
river  exist.  The  complete  solution  of  the  great  geographical 
problem  may  not  be  accomplished  by  one  explorer,  nor  perhaps 
in  one  generation,  but  we  are  coming  nearer  and  nearer  to  its 
determination.  Speke,  as  we  have  seen,  discovered  the  great 
Victoria  Nyanza  Lake,  and  on  the  occasion  of  a second  expedi- 
dition,  along  with  Grant,  confirmed  his  previous  observations 
and  found  a river  issuing  from  it,  which,  after  a not  very 
lengthened  course  has  been  ascertained  by  Baker  to  flow,  in 
common  with  several  other  rivers  as  large  as  itself,  into  an 
enormous  lake  now  called  the  Albert  Nyanza.  Of  the  effluent 
of  this  lake  our  knowledge  is  yet  incomplete.  If  Lake  Tan- 
ganyika should  prove  to  be  connected  with  the  Albert  Nyanza, 
and  the  Albert  Nyanza,  by  its  western  or  other  effluent,  with 
the  great  river  of  Egypt,  to  Dr.  Livingstone  may  yet  be  as- 
signed the  honor  of  being  the  real  discoverer  of  the  source  of 
the  Nile,  the  probable  location  of  which  he  pointed  out  long 
before  any  of  the  expeditions  from  the  Eastern  coast  of  Africa 
had  been  undertaken. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Mb.  Henry  M.  Stanley,  “ special  correspondent  ” (as  he  de- 
lights to  call  himself)  of  the  New  Yorlc  Herald , informs  ns  in 
the  preface  to  his  “ IIow  I found  Livingstone/’  that  being  in 
Madrid  on  the  business  of  his  profession,  he  received  a tele- 
gram on  the  16th  of  October,  1869,  from  Mr.  James  Gordon 
Bennett,  the  proprietor  of  that  journal,  to  the  effect  that  he 
must  “ come  to  Paris  on  important  business.”  As  soon  as  the 
train  could  carry  him  there  he  was  in  Paris,  and  in  conversa- 
tion with  the  sender  of  the  telegram.  Without  any  prelim- 
inary, Mr.  Bennett  informed  him  that  he  had  resolved  that  he 
(Stanley)  should  go  to  Africa  and  “ find  Dr.  Livingstone.” 
Ample  means^should  be  supplied  ; and  he  must  find  the  trav- 
eller if  alive,  and  if  dead  bring  all  possible  proof  of  his  being 
dead,  together  with  all  the  information  that  could  be  obtained 
concerning  his  later  explorations.  Stanley  was  not  new  to  a 
life  of  adventure  and  peril,  and  he  willingly  consented. 

Before  setting  out  on  his  Central  African  expedition,  how- 
ever, he  went  up  the  Nile  to  get  such  tidings  as  he  could  of 
Baker’s  expedition,  visited  Jerusalem  to  report  on  Captain 
Warren’s  excavations,  travelled  over  the  Crimean  battle- 
grounds, traversed  Persia  on  the  line  of  the  Indo-European 
Telegraph  Company,  and  in  August,  1870,  found  himself  in 
Bombay.  Sailing  from  Bombay  on  October  12th,  1870,  he  ar- 
rived at  Zanzibar  on  the  6th  of  January,  1871,  and  immedi- 
ately set  to  work  preparing  for  his  journey  to  the  interior. 
Zanzibar  agreeably  surprised  him.  With  the  exception  of  the 
sandy  beach,  the  island  seemed  buried  in  verdure  from  end  to 
end.  Many  dhows  were  making  their  way  out  of  and  into  the 
bay  as  he  entered ; and  towards  the  south  there  appeared  the 
masts  of  several  large  ships,  while  to  the  east  was  a mass  of 
flat-roofed  houses.  This  was  Zanzibar,  the  capital  of  the  is- 
land ; and  it  presented  all  the  characteristics  of  an  Arab  city. 
Over  some  of  the  largest  houses  fronting  the  bay,  were  the 
banner  of  the  Sultan,  Seyd  Burghash,  and  the  flags  of  the 
American,  English,  North-German  Confederation,  and  French 
Consulates.  In  the  harbor  were  thirteen  large  ships, — four 


356 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Zanzibar  men-of-war,  one  English  man-of-war,  two  American, 
one  French,  one  Portuguese,  two  English,  and  two  German 
merchantmen,  as  well  as  many  dhows  from  Johanna  and  May- 
otte of  the  Comoro  Islands,  and  from  Muscat  and  Cutch — 
traders  between  India,  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  Zanzibar.  Cap- 
tain Webb,  the  United  States  Consul,  received  Stanley  cor- 
dially, and  hospitably  entertained  him.  The  most  important 
consulate  is  the  British,  and  the  Consul  is  Dr.  John  Kirk,  who 
accompanied  Livingstone  on  his  journey  to  Lake  Nyassa,  in 
1859.  Towards  him  Mr.  Stanley  seems  to  have  conceived  an 
almost  comic  degree  of  hostility,  though  the  unfortunate  Doc- 
tor evidently  made  an  effort  to  be  civil. 

The  population  of  Zanzibar  amounts  to  nearly  100,000 ; and 
that  of  the  island  altogether  to  about  200,000,  including  all 
races.  In  the  city  there  are  several  classes  which  have  an  ex- 
tended influence  over  the  whole  community : the  Arabs,  the 
Banyans — a sharp,  money-making  people  controlling  much  of 
the  trade  of  Central  Africa — and  the  Mahometan  Hindus. 
These  three  represent  the  higher  and  the  middle  classes.  They 
own  the  estates,  the  ships,  and  the  trade.  Negroes  go  to  make 
up  the  mixed  population,  and  these  consist  of  the  aborigines, 
the  Wasawahili,  Somalis,  Comorines,  Wanyarnwezi,  and  the 
representatives  of  many  of  the  tribes  of  Inner  Africa.  The 
greatest  number  of  foreign  vessels  trading  with  the  port  are 
said  to  be  American  ; after  the  American,  the  German,  and 
after  them  the  French  and  English.  They  bring  American 
sheeting,  brandy,  gunpowder,  muskets,  beads,  English  cottons, 
brass-wire,  china-ware,  and  other  articles,  and  take  away  ivory, 
gum-copal,  cloves,  hides,  cowries,  sesamum,  pepper,  and  cocoa- 
nut  oil.  There  used  to  be  a large  business  done  in  slaves,  who 
wTere  conveyed  from  the  coast  to  Zanzibar,  and  thence  carried 
to  their  ultimate  destinations  in  the  countries  which  still  en- 
courage this  infamous  traffic.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  present 
efforts  to  bind  the  authorities  at  Zanzibar  to  their  promises  in 
favor  of  the  suppression  of  this  trade  will  continue  to  be  suc- 
cessful. Hitherto,  the  temptations  of  profit  have  made  all 
treaties  nothing  more  than  a dead  letter. 

The  organizing  of  an  expedition  to  Central  Africa  is  always 
a matter  of  difficulty,  and  so  Stanley  found.  He  must  take 
sufficient  for  his  purpose  and  no  more, — he  must  not  be  in 
straits,  neither  must  he  burden  himself  with  more  than  enough. 
There  were  questions  to  settle  about  quality  and  quantity  in 
regard  to  cloth,  beads,  and  wire — there  being  no  money  in 
these  countries ; one  description  of  article  instead  of  money 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


357 


being  of  service  in  certain  parts,  while  something  different  was 
requisite  in  another.  lie  surveyed  his  store  of  “ money,”  con- 
sisting of  such  goods  as  have  been  named ; but  there  were 
still  to  be  provided  food,  cooking-utensils,  boats,  ropes,  twine, 
tents,  donkeys,  saddles,  bagging,  canvas,  tar,  needles,  tools, 
gun 8,  ammunition,  equipments,  hatchets,  medicines,  bedding, 
presents  for  chiefs,  and  many  things  besides. 

One  mistake  he  made,  and  it  might  have  cost  him  the  suc- 
cess of  his  enterprise.  lie  engaged  as  his  subordinates  a 
couple  of  English  sailors,  Farquhar  and  Shaw,  who  appear  to 
have  been  worthless,  drunken  fellows,  whose  constitutions  were 
already  ruined,  and  who  both  died  in  the  interior  after  having 
given  him  an  immense  amount  of  trouble.  He  was  more  for- 
tunate with  his  natives,  enlisting  among  his  road  escort  of 
twenty  men  several  of  Speke’s  “ faithfuls,”  headed  by  the  fa- 
mous “ Bombay,”  who  had  the  best  of  characters.  In  the 
course  of  a month  Mr.  Stanley  had  by  great  exertion  got  to- 
gether his  goods  and  their  guard,  his  donkeys  and  horses,  and 
had  carried  them  over  in  four  dhows  to  Bagamoyo,  a port  and 
caravan  station  on  the  mainland,  across  a channel  of  twenty- 
five  miles.  He  had  with  him  the  means  of  paying  his  way 
and  of  buying  food  for  the  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  souls 
which  formed  his  caravan ; and  all  being  in  goods  of  various 
descriptions,  it  took  him  six  weeks  at  Bagamoyo  to  start  them 
in  five  detachments  on  the  road  to  Unyanyembe.  A number 
of  his  men  were  armed  ; and  these  he  called  soldiers. 

At  Bagamoyo  he  found  thirty-five  men  with  a quantity  of 
goods  who  had  been  despatched  some  time  before,  by  Dr. 
kirk,  in  aid  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  who  suddenly  left  for  the 
interior  when  it  was  reported  that  Dr.  Kirk  had  arrived  in  Her 
Majesty’s  ship  Columbine.  This  speedy  escape  from  censure 
was  probably  intended  rather  than  accomplished  ; for  Dr. 
Kirk  himself  in  a despatch  to  the  Foreign  Office  informs  us 
that  on  liis  arrival  at  Bagamoyo  he  found  the  men  “ still  living 
in  the  village,”  and  that  “ by  using  his  influence  with  the 
Arabs,  he  succeeded  at  once  in  sending  off  all  but  four  loads, 
£md  followed  inland  one  day’s  journey  himself.”  The  remain- 
ing four  loads,  he  afterwards  arranged,  were  to  be  taken  as  far 
as  Unyanyembe  by  an  Arab  caravan. 

The  island  of  Zanzibar  is  cut  by  the  sixth  parallel  of  south 
latitude.  From  Bagamoyo,  on  the  mainland,  there  is  a well- 
known  caravan  route,  which  leads  in  the  first  instance  to  Un- 
yanyembe, a central  trading  station  and  settlement  of  the  Arab 
ivory  and  slave  merchants,  and  which  lies  in  five  degrees  south 


358 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


latitude,  and  is  three  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  a direct  line 
west  of  Bagamoyo,  though  Mr.  Stanley’s  route,  as  he  computes 
it,  makes  the  distance  actually  travelled  no  less  than  five  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles.  The  next  and  furthest  depot  of  the 
Arab  merchants  is  Ujiji,  on  the  shores  of  the  great  Lake  Tan- 
ganyika, one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  due  west  from  Unyan- 
yembe.  When  the  native  tribes  and  their  petty  sultans  are 
not  at  war  amongst  themselves  or  with  the  Arabs,  the  road  to 
Ujiji  from  Unyanyembe  is  neither  difficult  nor  dangerous  for 
a well-organized  caravan  ; but  in  case  of  war,  it  is  beset  with 
hazard,  and  a long  detour  must  be  made.  This  was  Mr.  Stan- 
ley’s experience.  But  the  road  itself  is  easily  found,  and  it  is 
not  difficult  to  travel  it.  Floods  are  the  only  natural  obstacles, 
guides  are  readily  procurable,  and  the  traveller  need  never  of 
his  own  accord  deviate  from  a well-beaten  track.  But  the  Eu- 
ropean has  to  encounter  the  fevers,  of  which  he  will  probably 
have  several  before  reaching  Ujiji ; his  followers  may  desert 
him  or  mutiny,  or  die  of  cholera,  as  did  those  sent  to  relieve 
Dr.  Livingstone  ; his  supplies  may  fail  on  account  of  unlooked- 
for  delays,  and  he  whose  cloth  and  beads  and  wire  come  to  an 
eud  in  Central  Africa,  is  worse  off  than  he  who  has  no  money 
in  London  or  New  York.  In  dealing  with  his  own  men  and 
with  chiefs  whose  demands  may  be  exorbitant,  the  traveller 
will  have  need  of  all  his  tact,  temper,  and  courage,  but  by 
dint  of  these  good  qualities,  he  will,  generally  speaking,  suffer 
only  moderately  from  robbery  and  ill-treatment.  The  country 
between  the  coast  and  Tanganyika  is  well  travelled  by  cara- 
vans ; the  tribute  system  with  the  different  tribes  is  almost  as 
well-organized  as  a customs’  tariff ; and  the  drunken  village 
chiefs  and  sultans,  who  depend  upon  traders  for  all  their  lux- 
uries, are  wise  enough  to  know  that,  if  they  rob  and  murder 
one  caravan,  another  is  not  likely  to  come  their  way.  Neither 
do  the  Arabs  dare  to  kidnap  along  the  route.  Their  slave- 
hunting grounds  are  in  the  distant  interior,  and  it  is  quite  an 
error  to  suppose  that  the  country  is  desolated  and  uninhabited 
for  several  hundred  miles,  from  the  coast  inwards.  On  the 
contrary,  it  is  populous  for  a great  part  of  the  way  from  Bag- 
amoyo to  Ujiji,  and  the  inhabitants  are  generally  prosperous 
and  well-armed  with  flint  guns,  at  least  as  far  as  Unyanyembe, 
and  it  is  the  interest  of  all  parties  to  keep  the  peace. 

Lake  Tanganyika  lies  five  hundred  and  forty  miles  inland, 
and  is  thought  to  stretch  north  and  south  for  more  than  three 
hundred  miles,  having  an  average  breadth  of  about  forty  miles. 
Lake  Nyassa  lies  about  three  hundred  miles  to  the  west  of  it, 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


359 


and  is  known  to  belong  to  another  water-shed.  One  of  the 
great  problems  which  Livingstone  was  endeavoring  to  solve  in 
nis  last  journeys,  is  whether  the  Tanganyika  waters  have  or 
have  not  any  outlet  into  the  Albert  N’Yanza  of  Baker,  and  so 
into  the  Nile.  The  southern  extremity  of  the  Albert  N’Yanza 
appears  to  be  nearly  two  hundred  miles  from  the  north  shore 
of  Tanganyika.  But  Livingstone  and  Stanley  found  that  the 
Rusisi  River,  the  great  hope  of  the  upholders  of  this  theory  of 
the  Tanganyika  connection,  flows  into  and  not  out  of  the  north 
end  of  the  lake,  and  it  now  appears  to  be  not  improbable  that 
the  Tanganyika  has  no  outlet  at  all,  or  at  least  that  it  has  no 
outlet  towards  the  north.  But  there  is  still  another  question, 
the  answer  to  which  will,  as  Livingstone  hopes,  bring  the  Nile 
sources  as  far  down  as  11°  or  12°  south,  or  one  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  below  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Tanganyika. 
The  Chambesi , which  is  a distinct  river  from  the  Zambesi , 
which  flows  into  the  Mozambique  Channel,  rises,  as  Living- 
stone has  found,  in  about  eleven  degrees  south,  and  flows  in  a 
south-westerly  direction  into  Lake  Bangweolo,  the  southern 
shore  of  which  touches  the  twelfth  parallel  of  south  latitude. 
Livingstone  has  traced  the  line  of  drainage  from  this  lake  by 
large  rivers  flowing  north,  first  to  Lake  Moero,  in  the  same  lat- 
itude as  the  south  end  of  Tanganyika,  but  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  west  of  it,  thence  north-west  to  Kamolondo, 
a lake  about  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  west  of  Tanganyika, 
and  a degree,  or  thereabouts,  south  of  the  latitude  of  Ujiji,  thence 
northwards  to  a point  at  which  he  was  obliged  to  turn,  and 
which  brought  him  near  an  unknown  lake.  This  unknown 
lake  lies  in  the  latitude  of  the  northern  head  of  the  Tangan- 
yika, and  about  the  same  distance  west  of  it  as  Lake  Kamo- 
londo, and  if  there  should  be  a river  flowing,  as  Dr.  Living- 
stone supposes  there  is,  from  this  nameless  water  to  the  Albert 
N’Yanza,  the  sonthern  shore  of  which  is  probably  not  more 
than  two  hundred  miles  to  the  northward,  the  connection  be- 
tween the  Chambesi,  rising  in  twelve  degrees  south,  and  the 
Nile,  flowing  into  the  Mediterranean  in  thirty  degrees  north, 
will  be  complete.  But  this  final  link  in  the  chain  has  yet  to  be 
proved,  and  some  geographers  contend  that  the  relative  altitudes 
of  the  various  waters  will  prevent  it  from  ever  being  proved  at 
all.  But  be  that  as  it  may,  these  are  the  localities  of  the  great 
watershed  which  Dr.  Livingstone  was  exploring  during  the 
long  years  of  his  last  absence,  and  which  begins  two  hundred 
miles  south  of  Tanganyika,  sweeps  round  it  to  the  west  and 
north,  and  probably  extends  to  the  Nile  itself. 


360 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


It  is  eight  years  since  Livingstone,  in  March,  1866,  left  Zan- 
zibar, and  struck  into  the  interior  from  Mikid'indy  Bay  towards 
Lake  Nyassa,  which  is  about  three  hundred  miles  inland,  and 
about  the  same  distance  south  of  Zanzibar.  He  remained  in 
the  neighborhood  of  this  lake  during  the  autumn  of  1866. 
When  he  started,  his  caravan  had  consisted  of  twelve  Sepoys 
and  of  Johanna  and  other  natives,  in  all  about  thirty  men,  be- 
sides a number  of  camels,  mules,  and  donkeys  to  carry  his 
cloth,  beads,  instruments,  and  supplies.  He  soon  lost  ail  his 
animals ; the  Sepoys  were  a worthless  and  bad  lot,  and  he  was 
obliged  to  send  them  back  to  the  coast ; other  natives  deserted, 
and  the  Johanna  men  went  off  in  a body  and  brought  with 
them  that  fictitious  story  of  the  traveller’s  death  which  gave 
anxiety  to  many,  but  which  was  stoutly  disbelieved  by  Sir 
Roderick  Murchison.  From  Hyassa  he  went  north-west  to  the 
country  of  Ring  Cazembe  (the  Londa  of  Livingstone’s  earlier 
journeys,  and  the  Moluwa  of  Magyar),  where  he  arrived  early 
in  1867.  He  then  explored  the  watershed  of  the  river  Cham- 
besi  and  of  Lakes  Bangweolo  and  Moero,  and  after  being  de- 
serted by  all  but  two  of  his  followers,  and  experiencing  many 
great  hardships  and  dangers,  made  hi3  way  to  LTjiji,  on  Lake 
Tanganyika,  in  March,  1869.  Thence  he  wrote  those  letters 
which,  to  the  great  joy  of  his  friends  everywhere,  refuted  the 
story  of  the  Johanna  men,  and  induced  the  English  govern- 
ment in  May,  1871,  to  grant  £1,000  towards  the  relief  of  the 
traveller.  Meantime,  in  1868,  Mr.  Churchill,  British  Consul 
at  Zanzibar,  had  despatched  supplies  and  medicines  to  TJjiji, 
and  Dr.  Seward  had  also  sent  forward  some  quinine  and  stores 
for  the  same  place.  In  April,  1869,  Dr.  Kirk  sent  fourteen 
men  and  a large  caravan,  and  in  February,  1871,  the  expedi- 
tion seen  by  Mr.  Stanley  at  Bagamoyo,  and  which  had  been 
equipped  with  the  Government  money  by  Mr.  Churchill  and 
Dr.  Kirk,  was  dispatched, — all  for  LTjiji.  It  i3  not  known 
whether  Mr.  Churchill’s  and  Dr.  Seward’s  supplies,  sent  in 
1868,  reached  their  destination,  but  Livingstone  appears  to  have 
wanted  for  nothing  when,  in  June,  1869,  he  quitted  TJjiji,  and 
went,  in  company  with  some  Arab  traders,  to  explore  the  dis- 
tant Manyuema  country,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Tanganyika. 
It  was  in  this  journey  that  he  reached  his  farthest  point  north, 
and  traced  the  watershed  as  far  as  the  unknown  lake.  He  was 
compelled  to  return,  partly  by  sickness,  but  chiefly  because  his 
men  utterly  refused  to  proceed  further ; and,  in  bitter  disap- 
pointment, he  had  to  turn  his  back  upon  the  great  problem 
which  he  was  on  the  eve  of  solving,  making  the  weary  journey 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


3G1 


of  between  four  hundred  and  five  hundred  miles  to  LTjiji, 
from  which  he  intended  to  start  again  with  new  men  and 
fresh  supplies.  Writing  to  the  Editor  of  the  New  York  Her- 
ald concerning  this  journey,  he  says:  “I  thought  that  I was 
dying  on  my  feet.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  almost  every 
step  of  the  weary,  sultry  way,  was  in  pain,  and  I reached 
LTjiji  a mere  ruckle  of  bones.”  This  was  in  October,  1870. 
lie  was  more  dead  than  alive,  and  had  to  endure  the  bitter 
disappointment  of  finding  that  the  goods  and  men  of  Dr. 
Kirk’s  18G9  expedition,  to  which  he  was  trusting  implicitly, 
had  gone  to  the  four  winds.  In  the  first  place,  this  expedi- 
tion had  been  delayed,  months  and  months,  by  the  cholera, 
which  had  carried  off  many  of  its  men ; and  when,  finally, 
such  of  the  goods  as  had  not  been  plundered  arrived  at  Ujiji, 
they  were  sold  off,  and  the  proceeds  dissipated  by  “ the  drunk- 
en half-caste  Moslem  tailor  ” to  whom  they  had  been  entrusted. 
The  traveller  had  nothing  left  but  “ a few  barter  cloths  and 
beads,”  and  beggary  was  staring  him  in  the  face,  when,  three 
weeks  after  his  arrival  in  LTjiji,  the  New  York  Herald  expe- 
dition appeared  on  the  scene  and  all  was  well.  The  men  and 
goods  which  had  left  Bagamo}To,  shortly  before  Mr.  Stanley, 
were  still  at  Unyanyernbe,  detained  by  a war  which  Mr.  Stan- 
ley had  avoided  by  a long  detour,  and  it  is  hard  to  say  when 
they  might  have  reached  the  forlorn  traveller  for  whose  suc- 
cor they  were  intended. 

Such  were  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  loss  of  Liv- 
ingstone, and  such  was  the  condition  in  which  he  was  found. 

Stanley’s  first  misfortune  after  leaving  the  coast  was  the 
death  of  his  two  horses,  by  some  mysterious  disease,  not  by  the 
bite  of  the  tsetse.  The  donkeys  also  perished ; the  poor  ani- 
mals died  from  bad  weather,  overwork,  disease,  and  crocodiles, 
and  not  one  of  them  reached  Ujiji.  The  country  through  which 
the  route  lay  was  of  varied  aspect,  dense  forests,  alternating 
with  desert  plateaux,  and  numerous  small  villages,  while  the 
entire  face  of  the  cultivable  Jand  was  one  vast  neld  of  grain. 
The  road  was  a regular  and  beaten  highyvay  of  trade ; many 
Arab  caravans  were  passed,  with  large  quantities  of  ivory,  and 
many  slaves.  Three  weeks  out  of  Bagamoyo,  Stanley  met 
Salim  Bin  Rashid,  “ bound  eastward,  with  a huge  caravan  car- 
rying three  hundred  ivory  tusks,”  and  he  had  something  to  say 
about  Livingstone.  He  had  met  the  wayworn  traveller  at  Ujiji, 
had  lived  in  the  next  hut  to  him  for  two  weeks,  described  him 
as  looking  old,  with  long  gray  moustaches  and  beard,  just  re- 
covered from  severe  illness,  looking  very  wan  ; when  fully  re- 


362 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


covered,  Livingstone  intended  to  visit  a country  called  Man- 
yuema  by  way  of  Marunga.  But  this  was  no  news  to  Stanley, 
for  later  information  had  already  reached  Zanzibar  and  Eng- 
land that  Livingstone  had  started  on  this  journey  to  a far 
country,  but  had  not  yet  returned.  Had  Livingstone  been  still 
in  Manyuema  when  Mr.  Stanley  arrived  at  Ujiji,  there  would 
probably  have  been  some  news  of  him  there,  whether  he  was 
living  or  dead,  for  Manyuema  is  a trading  country,  and,  in  re- 
spect to  a white  man,  intelligence  travels  very  quickly  in  these 
parts.  Praise  is  therefore  due  to  Mr.  Stanley,  not  merely  be- 
cause he  found  Livingstone,  but  especially  because  he  forced 
his  way  through  all  hindrances,  and  dared  great  dangers  in 
order  to  reach  Ujiji,  where  he  was  nearly  certain  either  to  find 
the  traveller  or  to  obtain  news  of  him. 

In  a month  after  leaving  Bagamoyo,  the  caravan  reached 
Simbamwenni,  “ the  lion  city,”  in  the  fertile  and  populous  val- 
ley of  the  Ungerengeri.  The  grasping  Sultana  exacted  trib- 
ute of  several  aoti  (iour-yard  pieces)  of  cloth,  and  here  Stanley 
was  attacked  with  intermittent  fever.  It  was  the  rainy  season, 
and  the  weather  was  wretched ; the  donkeys  and  the  porters 
floundered  along,  half  drowned  in  the  flooded  swamps  and  riv- 
ers. Farquhar  had  gone  onwards  in  charge  of  one  of  the  de- 
tachments, and  news  came  that  he  was  ill,  and  that  his  caravan 
was  disorganized.  He  was  overtaken  in  a few  days,  and  found 
laid  up  in  his  tent,  suffering  from  a variety  of  ailments ; it  was 
also  found  that  he  had  squandered  most  wastefully  a large 
portion  of  the  cloth  which  he  had  with  him.  Shaw,  the  other 
sailor  overseer,  became  sick  also,  and  was  lazy  besides,  and 
lagged  with  his  detachment : men  deserted,  and  donkeys  sick- 
ened and  died,  but  still  the  indomitable  leader  kept  the  caravan 
on  the  move,  and  made  his  way  to  the  Mpwapwa  hills : these 
presented  beautiful  views  of  wood  and  pasture,  and  the  fertile 

{dains  abounded  with  villages.  In  one  of  these  Farquhar  was 
eft,  well  cared  for,  but  died  in  a few  days. 

Arriving  at  Ugogo,  the  Sultan  exacted"  the  uttermost  tribute 
of  doti.  All  through  the  kingdom  of  Ugogo  there  are  exten- 
sive fields  of  grain,  and  a bold  and  independent  people.  The 
way  was  pleasant,  but  there  were  many  village  sultans  who 
claimed  honga ; the  only  method  of  progress  was  to  pay  them, 
and  pass  on.  The  agreeable  was  always  mixed  with  its  oppo- 
site— a porter  would  sicken  of  small-pox  and  be  left  by  the 
roadside  to  die;  a donkey  would  prove  unable  to  carry  its  load, 
and  must  be  abandoned;  the  porters  would  be  on  the  verge  of 
mutiny  one  day,  and  the  next  would  be  singing  songs  in  honor 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


363 


of  the  ‘‘great  master.”  But  notwithstanding  all  drawbacks, 
they  proceeded  through  a country  of  happy  pastoral  aspect,  the 
lowing  of  cattle  and  the  bleating  of  goats  and  sheep  being 
heard"  everywhere,  and  entered  Unyanyembe  on  the  23d  or 
June,  1871,  ninet}r  days  from  Bagamoyo,  with  flags  flying, 
horns  blowing,  and  guns  firing,  every  soldier  in  a new  tarboosh 
and  a clean  white  shirt,  and  every  porter  with  his  best  cloth 
about  his  loins. 

The  Arab  merchants  at  Unyanyembe  received  Mr.  Stanley 
with  hospitable  welcome;  but  the  news  of  the  place  was  seri- 
ous— a certain  Mirambo  of  Uyoweh  had  blocked  the  road  to 
Ujiji,  and  declared  that  no  caravan  should  pass  through  the 
country  except  over  his  dead  body.  This  was  ruin  to  the  Arab 
trade,  and  the  merchants  resolved  to  clear  the  road  at  once  by 
force  of  arms ; in  other  words,  to  sally  forth  with  their  slaves, 
and  make  war  upon  Mirambo,  till,  as  Soud,  the  son  of  Sayd, 
the  son  of  Majid,  said,  “We  have  got  his  beard  under  our  feet, 
and  can  travel  through  any  part  of  the  country  with  only  our 
walking-canes  in  our  hands.”  Stanley  resolved  to  go  with  the 
Arab  army,  trusting  that,  after  the  defeat  of  Mirambo  and  his 
banditti,  the  road  would  be  open  towards  Ujiji.  The  Arabs 
and  their  followers,  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty-five  in 
number,  one  thousand  five  hundred  being  armed  with  muskets, 
mustered  their  forces  at  Mfuto,  a trading-post  and  stronghold 
three  days’  journey  on  the  way  towards  Ujiji,  where  Mr.  Stan- 
ley, who  had  been  delayed  at  Unyanyembe  by  a bad  fever, 
joined  them  with  his  force  of  fifty  men,  and,  leaving  his  goods 
at  Mfuto,  sallied  out  with  the  rest  to  engage  Mirambo.  They 
first  of  all  took  a palisaded  village  by  storm,  and  two  days  later 
a forest  chief  was  caught  asleep,  and  his  head  “ stretched  back- 
wards and  his  head  cut  off,  as  though  he  were  a goat  or  a 
sheep;”  and  then  Soud  bin  Sayd  led  five  hundred  m§n  against 
Wilyankura,  Mirambo’s  stronghold.  Driven  to  his  tent  by  a 
fever,  Stanley  remained  with  the  main  body,  and  was  lying 
covered  np  with  blankets,  when  the  whole  camp  was  suddenly 
thrown  into  consternation  by  the  dismal  news  of  the  defeat 
and  slaughter  of  Soud  bin  Sayd  and  half  his  force.  Wilyan- 
kura had  been  captured,  but  the  crafty  Mirambo  had  laid  an 
ambush,  and  massacred  the  Arabs  and  their  followers  as  they 
were  returning  through  the  long  grass,  laden  with  more  than 
a hundred  tusks  of  ivory,  sixty  bales  of  cloth,  and  several  hun- 
dred slaves.  All  that  night  the  women  of  the  camp  howled 
for  tbeir  husbands,  and  the  next  day  there  were  stormy  councils 
of  war,  ending  in  a general  and  sudden  retreat  to  Mfuto.  Mr. 


3G4r 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Stanley  staggered  from  his  tent  to  find  himself  deserted  by  all 
but  seven  of  his  own  people.  The  donkeys  were  saddled  and 
urged  to  a trot,  and  in  an  agony  of  pain  and  fever  he  followed 
the  flying  slaves  and  Arabs  to  Mfuto.  Mfuto  was  readied  at 
midnight.  He  found  that  all  his  men  had  arrived  there  before 
dark.  Ulimengo,  a bold  guide  who  had  exulted  in  his  weapons 
and  in  the  number  of  Stanley’s  men,  and  had  been  very  san- 
guine of  victory,  had  performed  the  eleven  hours’  inarch  in  six 
hours ; Chowpereh,  whom  his  master  had  regarded  as  one  of 
the  most  faithful  of  his  people,  had  arrived  only  half  an  hour 
later  than  Ulimengo ; and  Khamasi,  “ a dandy,  and  an  orator, 
and  a rampant  demagogue,”  had  arrived  the  third.  Speke’s 
“faithfuls”  had  proved  as  cowardly  as  any  of  them  all;  and 
only  Selim,  an  Arab  boy  from  Jerusalem,  had  proved  brave 
and  true.  Shaw  proved  that  he  possessed  a soul  as  base  and 
cowardly  as  that  of  any  of  the  Negroes. 

Stanley  returned  with  the  beaten  army  to  Unyanyembe ; 
Mirambo  attacked  the  town,  but  was  driven  off.  Not  brook- 
ing this  delay,  Stanley  determined  to  push  for  Ujiji  by  a 
southern  detour,  and  so  to  circumvent  Mirambo.  He  had 
to  leave  Shaw  behind  him,  he  being  now  incurably  ill ; and  he 
had  to  pay  very  high  for  porters ; but  after  a delay  of  three 
months  in  Unyanyembe,  he  finally  triumphed  over  all  his  diffi- 
culties, and  started  for  Ujiji  on  the  20th  of  September.  Dr. 
Kirk’s  men,  who  had  left  JBagamoyo  while  he  was  there,  had 
arrived  at  Unyanyembe  on  the  15th  of  May,  a month  before 
him.  He  offered  to  take  the  goods  on  with  him  to  Ujiji,  but 
Sheik  bin  Nasib,  to  whose  care  they  hafi  been  consigned, 
would  not  hear  of  this,  being  sure  that  the  white  man  was 
going  on  to  his  death.  Mr.  Stanley,  however,  took  the  letter- 
bag,  and  went  onwards,  with  a flying  caravan  of  fifty-four 
men,  carrying  light  loads  of  cloth,  beads,  ammunition,  tents, 
medicines,  and  supplies.  The  march  to  Ujiji  was  a succession 
of  fevers,  desertions,  the  extortions  of  chiefs,  with  other  delays 
and  dangers.  But  the  3d  of  November  arrived,  and  it  was  a 
day  to  be  remembered : 

“About  10  a.m.  appeared  from  the  direction  of  Ujiji  a cara- 
van of  eighty  Wagnliha,  We  asked  the  news,  and  were  told  a 
white  man  had  just  arrived  at  Ujiji  from  Manyuema.  This 
news  startled  us  all.  ‘ A white  man  ? ’ we  asked.  ‘ Yes,  a white 
man,’  they  replied.  ‘ How  is  he  dressed  ? ’ ‘Hike  the  master,  ’ 
they  answered,  referring  to  me.  ‘ Is  he  young  or  old  ? ’ ‘ He  is 

old,  and  has  white  hair  on  his  face,  and  is  sick.’  ‘Where  has 
he  come  from  ? ’ ‘ From  a very  far  country  away  beyond 


DR  LIVINGSTONE, 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


365 


Ugaliha,  called  Manyuema,1  ‘Indeed!  and  is  he  stopping  at 
Ujiji  now?  ’ ‘Yes,  we  saw  him  about  eight  days  ago.’  ‘ Do  you 
think  he  will  stop  there  until  we  see  him?’  ‘ Sigue'  (don’t 
know).  ‘ Was  he  ever  at  Ujiji  before  ? ’ ‘ Yes,  he  went  away 
a long  time  ago.’  ” 

Stauley  now  pushed  on,  stealing  through  the  villages  by  night 
and  travelling  through  a fine  game  country.  The  broad  waters 
of  the  Tanganyika  were  sighted  on  the  10th  of  November,  and 
with  guns  firing  and  the  stars  and  stripes  flying,  the  New  York 
Herald  Expedition  descended  the  hill  and  entered  Ujiji.  The 
news  of  the  arrival  of  the  white  man’s  caravan  had  spread 
through  the  town,  and  the  principal  Arab  merchants,  Mahomed 
bin  Sali,  Sayd  bin  Majid,  Abin  bin  Suliman,  Mahomed  bin 
Gharib,  and  others,  were  discussing  the  matter  with  Dr. 
Livingstone  before  the  veranda  of  his  house.  Stanley  says: 
“ I pushed  back  the  crow’ds,  and,  passing  from  the  rear,  walked 
down  a living  avenue  of  people,  until  I came  in  front  cf  the 
semicircle  of  Arabs,  in  the  front  of  which  stood  the  white  man 
with  the  gray  beard.  As  I advanced  slowly  towards  him,  I 
noticed  he  was  pale,  had  a gray  beard,  wore  a bluish  cap  with 
a faded  gold  band  round  it,  had  on  a red-sleeved  waistcoat,  and 
a pair  of  gray  tweed  trousers.  I would  have  run  towards  him, 
only  I was  a coward  in  the  presence  of  such  a mob ; would 
have  embraced  him,  only,  he  being  an  Englishman,  I did  not 
know  how  he  Would  receive  it;  so  I did  what  cowardice  and 
false  pride  suggested  was  the  best  thing — walked  deliberately 
to  him,  took  off  my  hat,  and  said,  ‘Dr.  Livingstone,  I pre- 
sume?’ ‘Yes,’  said  he  with  a kind  smile,  lifting  his  cap 
slightly.  I replace  my  hat  on  my  head  and  he  puts  on  his  cap, 
and  we  both  grasp  hands,  and  I then  said  aloud,  ‘ I thank  God, 
Doctor,  I have  been  permitted  to  see  you.’  He  answered,  ‘ I 
feel  thankful  that  I am  here  to  welcome  you.’  ” 

So  it  was  that  Mr.  Stanley  on  November  the  10th,  1871,  the 
236th  day  from  Bagaraoyo,  and  the  51st  from  Unyanyembe, 
found  Livingstone. 

The  post-bag  which  Mr.  Stanley  had  brought  from  Unyan- 
yembe had  been  just  a year  on  the  road  from  Zanzibar.  It 
was  now  soon  delivered,  and  the  Doctor  read  letters  from  his 
children  and  friends  and  heard  the  great  news  of  the  world  ; 
the  Arabs  sent  dishes  of  chicken  and  rice,  a bottle  of  cham- 
pagne carried  up  from  the  coast  for  the  great  occasion  was  pro- 
duced,  and  Livingstone,  who  looked  wan  and  weary,  and  had 
been  complaining  that  he  had  no  appetite,  now  ate  like  a hun- 
gry man,  repeating,  “ You  have  brought  me  new  life ; you  have 


366 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


brought  me  new  life.”  This  was  on  the  first  day.  Next  morn- 
ing Mr.  Stanley  told  Livingstone  the  origin  and  history  of  his 
journey,  which  excited  in  the  traveller  emotions  of  cordial  ap- 
preciation and  thankfulness. 

At  the  time  of  Mr.  Stanley’s  arrival,  Livingstone  possessed 
“ hut  twenty  cloths  or  so  in  the  world,”  and,  as  he  said  himself, 
had  “ a near  prospect  of  beggary  among  the  Ujijians.”  It  is 
true,  the  goods  of  Dr.  Kirk’s  1871  caravan  were  waiting  at 
Unyanyembe,  and  in  a few  months,  when  the  war  with  Mir- 
ambo  was  over  and  the  roads  were  open,  the  Doctor  and  his 
five  men  would  have  had  no  difficulty  in  finding  their  way 
there  with  an  Arab  caravan,  though  lie  would  have  had  to  pay 
smartly  for  his  escort.  At  Unyanyembe  he  would  have  heard 
news  of  the  Royal  Geographical  expedition,  and  when  it 
joined  him  he  might  have  resumed  his  journey  with  an  excel- 
lent equipment,  as  he  soon  afterwards  resumed  it  by  means  of 
orlier  arrangements.  But  it  ought  to  be  remembered  that  Dr. 
Livingstone  was  in  miserable  health  and  spirits,  and  sinking; 
and  that,  although  the  relief  brought  him  by  Mr.  Stanley  soon 
restored  him,  the  great  traveller  might  otherwise  have  died  at 
Ujiji. 

Livingstone  gave  Stanley  a general  account  of  his  explora- 
tions south  and  west  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  and  particularly  of 
those  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  connection  of  which  with  the  Nile 
he  had  so  firm  a conviction.  Geographers  in  Europe  seem  to 
be  of  opinion  that  he  was  upon  the  sources  of  the  Congo,  not 
those  of  the  Nile, — the  Congo  being  the  great  river  which  runs 
into  the  South  Atlantic  above  Loanda.  But  this  is  a problem 
which  remains  to  be  solved.  Livingstone  had  also  much  to  tell  of 
Rua  and  Manyuema,  countries  beyond  the  Tanganyika,  to  which 
the  Arab  traders  have  only  recently  made  their  way,  and  where 
ivory  is  so  plentiful  that  the  people  make  their  door-posts  of 
great  tusks.  He  could,  moreover,  speak  of  copper  mines,  and 
of  the  manufacture  of  finely  woven  and  dyed  grass-cloth,  as 
well  as  of  fertile  districts  dotted  with  towns  and  villages,  in 
which  the  people  had  dwelt  peacefully  and  happily  till  the 
Arabs  came  and  desolated  the  land  with  the  accursed  slave- 
trade.  He  himself  witnessed  one  of  their  horrible  massacres, 
when  Tagamoyo,  a half-caste  Arab,  and  his  gang  of  armed 
slaves  opened  lire  suddenly  in  a crowded  market-place,  killing 
some  four  hundred  men,  women,  and  children.  Livingstone 
writes  of  the  “ sore  heart  made  still  sorer  by  the  woful  sights” 
he  had  seen  in  this  journey  ; but  expressly  says  that  it  was  not 
these  which  deterred  him  from  further  exploring  the  country ; 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE . 


367 


but  the  conduct  of  liis  own  followers,  hy  whom  he  was  “baffled, 
worried,  defeated,  and  forced  to  return  when  almost  in  sight  of 
the  end  of  the  geographical  part  of  his  mission.” 

On  his  way  to  Ujiji  Stanley  never  turned  to  the  right  or  the 
left ; for,  as  he  says,  he  had  come  to  Africa,  not  to  explore  the 
country  or  to  shoot  game,  hut  to  find  Livingstone.  But  Living- 
stone being  found,  and  after  a time  well  and  strong  and  in 
good  spirits,  Stanley’s  men  and  stores  enabled  the  two  travellers 
to  solve  a geographical  problem  which  lay  at  their  doors,  and 
the  solution  of  which  was  Mr.  Stanley’s  direct  claim  to  the 
Victoria  medal.  It  was  well  known  that  the  Busisi  Biver 
joined  the  Tanganyika  at  its  head,  a hundred  miles  above 
Ujiji ; but  whether  the  river  flowed  into  the  lake,  or  out  of  it 
northward  to  the  Albert  N’Yanza  and  the  Nile,  had  not  been 
authoritatively  determined.  Sayd  bin  Majid’s  large  canoe  was 
therefore  borrowed  and  loaded,  and  with  a crew  of  sixteen  of 
Stanley’s  men,  Livingstone  and  he  coasted  the  east  side  of  the 
Tanganyika  to  its  head,  and  found  that  the  Busisi  flowed  into 
the  lake,  as  Burton  had  been  told.  They  were  absent  from 
Ujiji  four  weeks,  and,  with  the  exception  of  another  attack  of 
fever  from  \ hich  Mr.  Stanley  suffered,  the  cruise  seems  to  have 
been  most  enjoyable.  The  shores  were  thickly  dotted  with 
fishing  villages,  sending  out  their  flotillas  of  canoes,  while  the 
plains  were  occupied  with  pasturing  herds  of  cattle,  and  the 
hills  wooded  or  clothed  with  green  grass,  bearing  on  their  lower 
slopes  Indian  corn,  cassava,  sweet  potatoes,  and  other  crops. 
The  people  seemed  to  be  comfortable  and  happy,  and,  as  Mr. 
Stanley  says,  it  is  sad  to  think  of  them  as  bought  up  by  the 
Arabs  for  a couple  of  doti  of  cloth,  and  taken  away  from 
such  homes  to  Zanzibar  to  pick  cloves  or  do  hammel  work,  and  be 
At  the  mercy  of  unwise  and  unkind  owners.  The  natives  were 
in  general  well  disposed,  always  excepting  the  exaction  of  the 
customary  “ honga ; ” but  once  or  twice  the  cruisers  found  them- 
selves in  dangerous  quarters.  The  Bakari  people  called  to 
them  to  come  ashore,  threatening  them  with  vengeance  of  the 
great  Wami  if  they  did  not.  Of  course  they  did  not;  and 
when  they  began  to  throw  stones  at  the  canoe,  and  one  of  their 
missiles  came  within  a foot  of  Stanley’s  arm,  he  suggested  that 
a bullet  should  be  sent  among  them  to  teach  them  better  man- 
ners, “but  Livingstone,  though  he  said  nothing,  yet  showed 
plainly  enough  that  he  did  not  quite  approve  of  this.” 

At  Bemba  the  canoe  halted  that  the  men  might  chip  off  a 
piece  of  pipe-clay  to  insure  a safe  voyage — a Wajiji  supersti- 
tion generations  old,  if  one  may  judge  by  the  excavation  which 


368 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  observance  of  it  has  made  in  the  chalk  cliff.  The  natives 
seemed  to  be  peacefully  disposed,  and  the  company  in  the 
canoe,  going  ashore,  made  their  breakfast  and  waited ; but  ere 
long  the  drunken  son  of  the  chief  came  upon  them,  and  by  and 
by  the  father,  also  intoxicated,  with  a number  of  the  people,  and 
threatened  to  kill  them,  because  the  son  of  a former  chief  had 
been  murdered  at  Ujiji.  Livingstone  was  absent,  having  as- 
cended a hill  the  better  to  see  the  country,  and  Stanley  was 
disposed  to  fight;  but  his  more  experienced  companion,  having 
returned,  though  with  difficulty,  by  much  tact  and  kindness 
succeeded  in  preserving  the  peace.  The  chief  accepted  their 
present,  and  they  went  on  their  way. 

They  returned  to  Ujiji  on  the  13th  of  December,  1871,  and 
several  plans  having  been  proposed  and  discussed,  Livingstone 
finally  resolved  to  accept  as  far  as  Unyanyembe  the  escort 
which  was  offered  by  his  companion,  and  to  wait  at  that  place 
until  the  arrival  of  the  men  and  stores  necessary  to  enable  him 
to  resume  his  journey,  and  which  Hr.  Stanley  undertook  to 
forward  to  him  immediately  upon  his  arrival  at  Zanzibar.  To 
wait  at  Unyanyembe  was  more  especially  needful  in  regard 
to  the  men,  since,  in  accordance  with  Mr.  Bennett’s  instruc- 
tions, “ to  help  him  should  he  require  it,”  Stanley  was  about  to 
make  him  a present  of  so  large  a quantity  of  stores  that  only  a 
few  extra  articles  would  be  necessary.  Before  leaving  Ujiji 
Livingstone  began  writing  up  his  “ Mammoth  Letts’s  Diary  ” 
from  his  field  note-books.  He  wrote  also  to  his  friends,  and 
wrote  also  two  long  letters  which  heartily  thanked  Mr.  Ben- 
nett, and  which  were  in  accordance  with  the  special  corre- 
spondent’s instructions,  to  “ get  what  news  of  his  discoveries 
you  can.”  In  one  of  these  letters  he  gives  the  following 
summary  of  what  he  had  accomplished  in  the  way  of  geograph- 
ical exploration,  up  to  the  time  when  he  was  driven  back  to 
Ujiji  by  the  treachery  of  his  followers  : 

“ I have  ascertained  that  the  water-shed  of  the  Nile  is  a 
broad  upland  between  ten  degrees  and  twelve  degrees  south 
latitude,  and  from  4,000  to  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Mountains  stand  on  it  at  various  points,  which,  though 
not  apparently  very  high,  are  between  6,000  and  7,000  feet  of 
actual  altitude.  The  water- shed  is  over  700  miles  in  length, 
from  west  to  east.  The  springs  that  rise  on  it  are  almost  in- 
numerable— that  is,  it  would  take  a large  part  of  a man’s  life 
to  count  them.  A bird’s-eye  view  of  some  parts  of  the  water- 
shed would  resemble  the  frost  vegetation  on  window-panes. 
They  all  begin  in  an  ooze  at  the  head  of  a slightly  depressed 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


3G9 


valley.  A few  hundred  yards  down,  the  quantity  of  water 
from  oozing  earthen  sponge  forms  a brisk  perennial  burn  or 
brook  a few  feet  broad,  and  deep  enough  to  require  a bridge. 
These  are  the  ultimate  or  primary  sources  of  the  great  rivers 
that  How  to  the  north  in  the  Great  Nile  Vallc}\  The  primaries 
unite  and  form  streams  in  general  larger  than  the  Isis  at  Ox- 
ford, or  Avon  at  Hamilton,  and  may  be  called  secondary 
sources.  They  never  dry,  but  unite  again  into  four  large  lines 
of  drainage,  the  head  waters  or  mains  of  the  river  of  Egypt. 
These  four  are  each  called  by  the  natives  Lualaba,  which,  if 
not  too  pedantic,  may  be  spoken  of  as  lacustrine  rivers,  extant 
specimens  of  those  which,  in  prehistoric  times,  abounded  in 
Africa,  and  which  in  the  south  are  still  call  by  Bechuanas 
‘ Melapo in  the  north,  by  Arabs,  4 Wadys,’  both  words  mean- 
ing the  same  thing — river-bed  in  which  no  water  ever  now 
flows.  Two  of  the  four  great  rivers  mentioned  fall  into  the 
central  Lualaba,  or  Webb’s  Lake  River,  and  then  we  have  but 
two  main  lines  of  drainage  as  depicted  nearly  by  Ptolemy. 

u The  prevailing  winds  on  the  water-shed  are  from  the 
south-east.  This  is  easily  observed  by  the  direction  of  the 
branches,  and  the  humidity  of  the  climate  is  apparent  in  the 
numbers  of  lichens  which  make  the  upland  forest  look  like  the 
mangrove  swamps  on  the  coast. 

“ In  passing  over  sixty  miles  of  latitude,  I waded  thirty-two 
primary  sources*  from  calf  to  waist  deep,  and  requiring  from 
twenty  minutes  to  an  hour  and  a quarter  to  cross  stream  and 
sponge.  This  woilld  give  about  one  source  to  every  two 
miles. 

“ A Suaheli  friend,  in  passing  along  part  of  the  Lake  Bang- 
weolo,  during  six  days  counted  twenty-two  from  thigh  to  waist 
deep.  This  lake  is  on  the  water-shed,  for  the  village  which 
I observed  on  its  north-west  shore  was  a few  seconds  into 
eleven  degrees  south,  and  its  southern  shores,  and  springs,  and 
rivulets  are  certainly  in  twelve  degrees  south.  I tried  to 
cross  it  in  order  to  measure  the  breadth  accurately.  The  first 
stage  to  an  inhabited  island  was  abont  twenty-four  miles. 
From  the  highest  point  here  the  tops  of  the  trees,  evidently 
lifted  by  the  mirage,  could  be  seen  on  the  second  stage  and 
the  third  stage  ; the  mainland  was  said  to  be  as  far  as  this  be- 
yond it.  But  my  canoe  men  had  stolen  the  canoe  and  got  a 
hint  that  the  real  owners  were  in  pursuit,  and  got  into  a flurry 
to  return  home.  4 They  would  come  back  for  me  in  a few 
days,  truly,’  but  I had  only  my  coverlet  left  to  hire  another 
craft  if  they  should  leave  me  in  this  wide  expanse  of  water, 
*24 


370 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and  being  4,000  feet  above  the  sea  it  was  very  cold ; so  I 
returned. 

“ The  length  of  this  lake  is,  at  a very  moderate  estimate, 
150  miles.  It  gives  forth  a large  body  of  water  in  the 
Luapnla ; yet  lakes  are  in  no  sense  sources,  for  no  large  river 
begins  in  a lake  ; but  this  and  others  serve  an  important  pur- 
pose in  the  phenomena  of  the  Nile.  It  is  one  large  lake,  and 
(unlike  the  Okaro,  which,  according  to  Suaheli,  who  travelled 
long  in  our  company,  is  three  or  four  lakes  run  into  one  huge 
Victoria  Nyanza)  gives  out  a large  river,  which,  oil  departing 
out  of  Moero,  is  still  larger.  These  men  had  spent  many  years 
east  of  Okara,  and  could  scarcely  be  mistaken  in  saying  that  of 
the  three  or  four  lakes  there,  only  one  (the  Okara)  gives  off  its 
waters  to  the  north.  ... 

“ The  great  river,  Webb’s  Lualaba,  in  the  centre  of  the  Nile 
Valley,  makes  a great  bend  to  the  west,  soon  after  leaving 
Lake  Moero,  of  at  least  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  ; then, 
turning  to  the  north  for  some  distance,  it  makes  another  large 
sweep  west  of  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  in  the 
course  of  which  about  thirty  miles  of  southing  are  made ; it 
then  draws  around  to  north-east,  receives  the  Lomani,  or 
Loeki,  a large  river  which  flows  through  Lake  Lincoln.  After 
the  union  a large  lake  is  formed,  with  many  inhabited  islands 
in  it ; but  this  has  still  to  be  explored.  It  is  the  fourth  large 
lake  in  the  central  line  of  drainage,  and  cannot  be  Lake  Al- 
bert; for,  assuming  Speke’s  longitude  of  Ujiji  to  be  pretty 
correct,  and  my  reckoning  not  enormously  wrong,  the  great 
central  lacustrine  river  is  about  five  degrees  west  of  Upper  and 
Lower  Tanganyika.  . . . 

“ Beyond  the  fourth  lake  the  water  passes,  it  is  said,  into 
large  reedy  lakes,  and  is  in  all  probability  Petherick’s  branch 
— the  main  stream  of  the  Nile — in  distinction  from  the 
smaller  eastern  arm  which  Speke,  Grant,  and  Baker  took  to  be 
the  river  of  Egypt.* 

“The  Manyuema  could  give  no  information  about  their 
country  because  they  never  travel.  Blood  feuds  often  prevent 
them  from  visiting  villages  three  or  four  miles  off,  and  many 
at  a distance  of  thirty  miles  did  not  know  the  great  river, 
though  named  to  them.  No  traders  had  gone  so  far  as  I had, 
and  their  people  cared  only  for  ivory. 


* The  possibility  of  such  a connection  through  Petherick’s  branch  of  the 
Nile  has  been  disproved  by  the  explorations  of  Dr.  Schweinfurth,  as  will  be 
seen  in  a subsequent  chapter. 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


371 


“ In  my  attempt  to  penetrate  farther  and  farther  I had  but 
little  hope  of  ultimate  success,  for  the  great  amount  of  westing 
led  to  a continued  effort  to  suspend  the  judgment,  lest,  after 
all,  I might  be  exploring  the  Congo  instead  of  the  Nile,  and  it 
was  only  after  the  two  great  western  drains  fell  into  the  cen- 
tral main,  and  left  but  the  two  great  lacustrine  rivers  of 
Ptolemy,  that  I felt  pretty  sure  of  being  on  the  right  track.” 

In  order  to  avoid  the  Mirambo  war,  which  was  still  raging 
along  the  ordinary  road  to  Ujiji,  Mr.  Stanley,  who  had  travelled 
it,  proposed  a voyage  of  some  sixty  miles  down  the  lake,  that 
they  might  strike  inland  from  Cape  Tongwe  to  his  former 
track,  and  follow  its  semicircular  sweep  to  Unyanyembe.  The 
Doctor  agreed,  and  the  course  answered  perfectly.  They  kept 
Christmas  Day  at  Ujiji  with  royal  fare  of  mutton  from  fat 
broad-tailed  sheep  and  goats,  with  zogga  and  pombe,  eggs, 
fresh  milk,  plantains,  singvve,  fine  corn-flour,  fish,  onions,  and 
sweet  potatoes,  and  on  the  27th  of  December  the  two  canoes, 
hoisting,  the  one  the  American,  and  the  other  the  British  flag, 
left  Ujiji.  Cape  Tongwe  was  safely  reached,  and  the  land 
journey  commenced  on  the  7th  of  January,  1872 — Unyan- 
yembe being  entered  on  the  18th  of  February,  fifty-three  days 
from  Ujiji.  On  the  road  Mr.  Stanley  was  racked  with  fevers, 
and  Dr.  Livingstone  suffered  from  sore  feet,  but  marched  and 
ate  “ like  a hero”  ; and  Mr.  Stanley  bears  witness  to  his  great 
powers  of  travel,  his  knowledge  of  rocks,  trees,  fruits,  and 
everything  concerning  Africa,  as  well  as  his  skill  in  camp- 
craft  and  all  its  cunning  devices.” 

Letters  and  papers  for  both  travellers  had  met  them  a few 
marches  before  Unyanyembe.  Dr.  Kirk’s  caravan  was  still 
waiting.  The  provisions  were  in  bad  order,  had  been  robbed, 
and  were  altogether  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition.  Some 
shoes  and  stockings  which  had  been  sent  b}7  a friend,  greatly 
delighted  Livingstone.  “ He  tried  them  on,  and  exclaimed, 
‘ Richard  is  himself  again.’  ” Stanle}7  now  gave  Livingstone 
forty  loads  of  stores  and  supplies,  making,  with  the  thirty  loads 
sent  by  Dr.  Kirk,  a quantity  sufficient  for  four  years. 

Stanley  left  for  the  coast  with  Livingstone’s  letters  and  a 
sealed  diary,  and  his  own  journals,  on  the  14th  of  March,  and 
reached  Bagamoyo  on  the  6th  of  May.  The  up-journey  over 
the  same  ground  had  taken  one  hundred  days,  but  the  home- 
ward march  was  accomplished  in  fifty-three.  Stanley  did  good 
service  to  Livingstone  in  thus  hurrying  to  Zanzibar  to  despatch 
as  soon  as  possible  the  fifty  men,  the  arms  and  ammunition, 
the  nautical  almanacs,  the  chronometers,  and  the  other  sup- 


372 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


plies  required  before  the  traveller  could  start  upon  the  final 
and  decisive  exploration  of  the  great  water-shed  he  had  dis- 
covered. 

At  Bagamoyo  Stanley  found  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society’s  expedition,  and  all  the  world  knows  how  Lieutenant 
Dawson  and  his  subordinates  threw  up  their  commands  in 
turn  ; and  how  a costly  expedition  for  which  Dr.  Livingstone, 
in  his  last  letter,  says  that  he  could  have  found  plenty  of  work, 
came  to  a fruitless  end.  The  Geographical  Society  condemned 
this  precipitancy  on  the  part  of  Lieutenant  Dawson  as  a 
“ lamentable  error  of  judgment,”  and  there  the  matter  had  as 
well  be  left. 

Mr.  Stanley,  before  leaving  Zanzibar,  enlisted  men  and  or- 
ganized with  the  English  money  and  stores  available,  and  with 
the  co-operation  of  Mr.  Oswell  Livingstone,  the  Doctor’s  son, 
who  had  been  a member  of  the  Geographical  Society’s  expedi- 
tion, the  additional  caravan  required  by  the  traveller,  and  saw 
it  start  for  Bagamoyo  and  the  interior  on  the  17th  of  May. 
The  last  news  from  Dr.  Livingstone,  prior  to  the  news  of  his 
death,  was  dated  Unyanyembe,  July  1st,  four  months  all  but  a 
few  days  after  Mr.  Stanley  left  him.  He  was  still  waiting  for 
“ the  fifty  men,”  who  must  soon  have  joined  him.  In  this 
letter  Dr.  Livingstone  informed  Lord  Granville  that  his  pur- 
pose was,  in  this  new  journey,  to  round  the  south  end  of  Tan- 
ganyika, proceed  to  Lake  Bangweolo,  and  thence  “ go  straight 
west  to  the  ancient  fountains  reported  at  that  end  of  the 
water-shed,”  visit  the  copper  mines  of  Karanga,  lakes  Lincoln 
and  Kamolondo,  and  tlience  retire  along  the  latter  lake  to 
Ujiji  and  home.  The  “ ancient  fountains,”  Dr.  Livingstone 
thought,  may  be  the  uttermost  source  of  the  whole  Nile  system 
referred  to  by  Herodotus.  It  must  be  noted  that  this  route 
was  devoted  to  the  verifying  of  the  courses  of  the  water-shed 
which  Dr.  Livingstone  traced  from  12°  south  to  4°  south, 
a few  miles  short  of  the  uuknown  lake  near  which  he  was 
compelled  by  his  men  to  turn.  But  the  extent  of  “ the  large, 
reedy  lake”  itself,  and  the  direction  of  its  waters,  whether 
north  to  the  Nile  or  west  to  the  Congo,  such  a journey  as  Dr. 
Livingstone  proposed  would  not  have  resolved. 

When  Stanley  arrived  in  England,  he  was  received  with  a 
cordial  welcome  by  the  general  public,  and  honored  in  many 
ways.  Unhappily  the  Geographical  Society  and  he  did  not 
for  a short  time  understand  each  other,  and  strong  wTords  were 
employed  by  both  parties  ; but  time  and  explanation  and  per- 
sonal courtesies  softened  down  asperities,  and  the  Society 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


373 


cordially  awarded  him  the  Victoria  medal,  while  Queen  Vic- 
toria accorded  him  a personal  interview,  and  presented  him 
with  a valuable  memento  of  her  appreciation  of  his  great 
achievement,  and  of  the  interest  which  she  took  in  the  welfare 
and  the  success  of  that  great  Englishman  for  whose  relief  and 
comfort  he  had  done  and  dared  so  much. 

The  Royal  Geographical  Society  soon  afterwards  came  to  the 
conclusion  that,  to  l>c  at  all  sure  of  helping  Livingstone,  and  in 
order  to  the  complete  opening  up  of  Africa,  an  expedition 
ought  to  start  at  once  from  the  western  coast  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Congo.  As  may  he  seen  from  any  map  of  the  continent, 
the  great  river  Zaire,  or  Congo,  flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Guinea, 
and  its  channel,  so  far  as  traced,  comes  down  from  those  same 
blank  regions,  of  which  Livingstone’s  discoveries  are  filling  up 
the  farther  or  eastern  side.  If  the  Lualaba  does  not  emerge  by 
the  mouth  of  the  Congo,  it  does  not  flow  westward  at  all ; if  it 
does,  and  Livingstone  had  found  himself  upon  the  upper  waters 
of  this  stream,  an  expedition  sailing  from  its  mouth  would  have 
the  best  chance  of  aiding  him,  and  would  at  the  same  time  have 
the  opportunity  of  exploring  the  most  mysterious  country  of 
Africa.  Much  might  be  accomplished  in  such  an  enterprise  for 
two  thousand  pounds,  and  this  sum  was  most  generously  prom- 
ised and  paid  by  Mr.  Young,  an  old  friend  of  Livingstone’s, 
and  who  has  also  since  added  most  munificently  to  his  previous 
gifts.  The  leader  of  the  expedition  is  Lieutenant  Grandy,  R. 
N.,  an  officer  who  has  had  much  experience  in  the  African 
rivers,  and  with  the  Iirooinen,  in  the  repression  of  the  slave- 
trade.  The  undertaking  is  called  the  “ Congo- Livingstone  Ex- 
pedition”— a designation  which  emphasizes  its  double  object — 
namely,  to  complete,  if  possible,  the  survey  of  this  great  stream, 
and  to  convey  succor  and  comfort  to  the  great  traveller  if,  as 
the  geographers  confidently  believed,  lie  was  really  all  the  while 
upon  the  upper  waters  of  the  Congo,  and  not  upon  those  of  the 
Kile.  The  party  started  from  St.  Paul  de  Loauda,  in  1873, 
and  is  now  engaged  in  the  work  assigned  to  it. 

The  Zaire,  or  Congo,  is  a magnificent  river,  more  wonderful 
than  the  Nile  even,  if  indeed  the  Lualabafeeds  it.  In  any  case, 
it  is  one  of  the  greatest  puzzles  of  African  geography  ; for  when 
the  slate  cliffs,  which  rise  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  its 
mouth,  are  once  passed,  it  broadens  out  into  a majestic  tide  of 
five  miles  wide,  with  an  extraordinary  depth,  while  the  verdure 
and  richness  of  its  upper  reaches  are  amazing.  Captain  Tuckcy 
did  not  ascend  much  higher  than  the  slate-rocks,  and  the 
“ shellals ; ” but  he  saw  a wonderful  region,  and  it  was  said  that 


374 


STANLEY  AND  LIVINGSTONE. 


beyond  this  lay  a most  populous,  fertile,  and  salubrious  district, 
un  visited  by  the  foot  of  any  European  ; although  by  all  accounts 
the  very  garden  of  the  interior  region.  Marvellous  forests, 
strange  animals,  picturesque  scenery,  nameless  but  precious 
productions,  and  vast  swarms  of  men  waiting  for  trade  and 
knowledge,  are  said  to  be  found  in  that  round  white  blot  which 
still  marks  the  best  map  of  Africa.  It  may  or  may  not  be  that 
Webb’s  Lualaba  and  the  large  volume  of  Lake  Lincoln  pour 
into  the  mighty  and  strange  stream  which,  in  the  dry  season  of 
Loanga,  often  swells  suddenly  to  some  seven  or  eight  extra  feet 
of  broad  flood.  But  assuredly  the  Zaire  conceals  notable  secrets 
from  science  ; and  while  it  may  possibly  not  lead  Lieutenant 
Grandy  and  his  companions  to  Livingstone’s  ground,  it  is  sure 
to  conduct  any  competent  explorers  to  most  valuable  dis- 
coveries. 

Mr.  Stanley  himself  has  just  (November,  1874)  left  Zanzibar 
on  another  expedition,  the  precise  objects  of  which  have  not  yet 
been  stated,  but  probably  to  complete  the  discoveries  begun  by 
Livingstone  in  his  later  journeys,  and  left  unfinished  by  his 
death. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


LIVINGSTONE’S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 

In  the  preceding  chapter  on  Stanley  and  Livingstone  a very 
brief  outline  of  the  latter’s  travels  from  the  time  he  left 
Zanzibar  in  1860  to  bis  meeting  with  Stanley  at  Ujiji  six  years 
later  has  already  been  given.  This  much  was  necessary  in 
order  to  explain  the  object  and  circumstances  of  Stanley’s 
expedition ; but,  though  it  anticipates  in  some  measure  the 
more  important  features,  it  can  detract  but  little  from  the 
interest  of  the  complete  narrative  of  those  travels  which  the 
publication  of  “ Dr.  Livingstone’s  Last  Journals  ” now  enables 
us  to  present.  These  Journals  cover  the  entire  period  from 
the  date  of  Livingstone’s  departure  from  Zanzibar  on  the  28tli 
of  January,  1866,  to  the  day  when  his  note-book  dropped  from 
his  dying  hand  in  the  village  of  llala  at  the  end  of  April, 
1873.  The  little  that  is  needed  for  the  elucidation  of  the 
numerous  entries  is  supplied  by  the  editor,  Mr.  Horace  Waller ; 
but  as  both  he  and  Livingstone  have  omitted  to  explain  the 
origin  and  purpose  of  this  last  expedition,  it  will  be  well  to 
do  so  briefly  before  entering  upon  the  narrative. 

The  reader  will  have  seen  in  the  last  chapter  but  one  that 
the  Zambesi  Expedition  was  substantially  a failure;  and  no 
one  was  more  keenly  alive  to  this  fact  than  Livingstone  him- 
self. He  had  not  only  expended  immense  sums  of  Government 
money  and  some  thousands  of  pounds  of  his  own  with  results 
which  caused  general  and  outspoken  dissatisfaction,  but  his 
failure  had  brought  the  whole  subject  of  African  exploration 
for  a time  into  disfavor;  and  he  returned  to  England  a soured 
and  disappointed  man.  He  wished  to  resume  his  explorations, 
but  had  not  the  means ; and,  as  the  government  had  cast  him  off, 
it  was  only  through  the  friendly  aid  of  Sir  Roderick  Murchison 
that  he  was  enabled  to  make  a new  start.  Sir  Roderick  pro- 
posed to  Livingstone  an  expedition  “ to  define  the  true  water- 
shed of  Inner  Southern  Africa;”  and  after  no  little  trouble 
secured  from  the  government  the  sum  500/.  and  an  unsalaried 
consulate  to  the  chiefs  of  Inner  Africa.  The  Council  of  the 
Geographical  Society  subscribed  500/.  more,  and  other  sub- 
scriptions were  afterwards  obtained  in  Bombay ; a “ valued 


376  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


private  friend,”  as  Livingstone  informs  ns,  placed  another 
thousand  pounds  at  his  disposal.  Thus,  before  the  close  of  1SG5, 
Livingstone  was  once  more  in  Africa  ready  to  enter  upon  an 
expedition  which,  as  we  shall  see,  extended  over  a period  of 
more  than  seven  years. 

The  expedition  was  organized  at  Bombay,  and  crossed  over 
to  Zanzibar;  but  instead  of  striking  inland  from  Bagamoyo 
on  what  was  now  a beaten  a track,  Livingstone  sailed  down 
the  coast  to  Mikindany  Bay  near  the  mouth  of  the  Bovuma 
Biver,  whence  he  set  out  overland  for  Lake  Nyassa.  II is 
caravan  consisted  of  thirteen  Sepoys,  ten  Johanna  men,  and 
thirteen  Africans,  among  whom  were  Clmma  and  Susi,  who 
remained  with  him  till  he  died  and  brought  his  body  and 
Journals  to  the  coast.  He  had  also  six  camels,  three  buffaloes 
and  a calf,  two  mules,  and  four  donkeys.  The  march  began 
on  April  6th,  18G6,  and  the  route  lay  for  a long  distance 
directly  up  the  Bovuma,  or  nearly  due  west.  Nothing  of 
special  interest  marked  the  journey  to  the  Lake,  except  the 
proof  which  it  afforded  at  the  very  commencement  that  the 
sonnel  of  the  expedition  was  hopelessly  unequal  to  the  task  which 
Livingstone  had  set  before  himself.  The  gross  ill-usage  of 
the  drivers  and  the  bites  of  tsetse  cost  him  all  his  animals 
except  one  donkey  and  the  buffalo  calf  before  the  Lake  was 
reached ; the  Sepoys  first  mutinied  and  subsequently  proved 
so  utterly  worthless,  that  he  was  compelled  to  dismiss  them ; 
the  Johanna  men,  after  clogging  the  march  for  three  months, 
deserted  in  a body;  and  one  of  the  Nassick  boys  died,  while 
another  met  some  of  his  kindred  and  concluded  to  remain 
with  them.  The  first  hundred  pages  of  the  Journals  indeed 
consist  largely  of  records  of  difficulties  caused  chiefly  by  his 
own  followers,  and  of  devices  for  satisfying  hunger,  for  which 
their  folly  and  laziness  was  largely  responsible.  Before  three 
months  had  passed,  enough  had  occurred  to  discourage  utterly 
any  explorer  less  firm  and  self-confident  than  Livingstone  ; but 
he  endured  all  with  a patient  fortitude  which  no  obstacles 
could  even  temporarily  depress. 

Even  in  this  first  stage  of  his  long  journey  he  came  upon 
that  “ great  open  sore  of  the  world  ” which  throughout  forms 
the  most  painful  element  of  his  narrative,  and  toward  the 
healing  of  which  it  was  his  most  consoling  hope  that  his  labors 
would  contribute.  As  he  neared  the  lake  the  track  of  the 
Arab  slave-traders  was  several  times  crossed,  and  two  or  three 
extracts  from  the  Journals  will  serve  to  show  what  scenes  then 
met  his  eye : 


SLAVE  CARAVAN. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  377 


“ 19i tli  June , 1SGG. — AVe  passed  by  a woman  tied  by  the  neck 
to  a tree  and  dead ; the  people  of  the  country  explained  that 
she  had  been  unable  to  keep  up  with  the  other  slaves  in  a gang, 
and  her  master  had  determined  that  she  should  not  become  the 
property  of  any  one  else  if  she  recovered  after  resting  for  a 
time.  I may  mention  here  that  we  saw  others  tied  up  in  a 
similar  manner,  and  one  lying  in  the  path  shot  or  stabbed,  for 
she  was  in  a pool  of  blood.  The  explanation  we  got  invari- 
ably was  that  the  Arab  who  owned  these  victims  was  enraged 
at  losing  his  money  by  the  slaves  becoming  unable  to  march, 
and  vented  his  spleen  by  murdering  them.” 

“ 26th  June. — We  passed  a slave- woman  shot  or  stabbed 
through  the  body  and  lying  on  the  path  ; a group  of  men  stood 
about  a hundred  yards  off  on  one  side,  and  another  of  women 
on  the  other  side,  looking  on  ; they  said  an  Arab  who  passed  early 
that  morning  had  done  it  in  anger  at  losing  the  price  lie  had 
given  for  her,  because  she  was  unable  to  walk  any  longer.” 

“27 th  June. — To-day  we  came  upon  a man  dead  from 
starvation,  as  he  was  very  thin.  One  of  our  men  wandered  and 
found  a number  of  slaves  with  slave-sticks  011,  abandoned  by 
their  master  from  want  of  food;  they  were  too  weak  to  be 
able  to  speak  or  say  where  they  had  come  from ; some  were 
quite  j’oung.” 

Shocking  as  such  incidents  are,  they  are  by  no  means  the 
worst  result  of -the  slave-trade  as  conducted  by  the  Arabs. 
Tribe  is  set  against  tribe,  neighbor  against  neighbor,  the  chief 
against  his  people,  and  members  of  the  family  one  against 
another,  until  every  restraint  or  tie  that  can  bind  men  together 
in  communities  is  broken  down,  and  whole  districts  are  depop- 
ulated by  mere  proximity  to  the  infamous  traffic.  Not  the  least 
discouraging  feature  of  the  business  as  described  by  Living- 
stone is  the  utter  callousness  of  the  natives  even  in  cases  where 
their  own  kindred  are  involved ; and  the  impossibility  of  awak- 
ening either  shame  or  compunction,  or  any  other  sentiment 
except  fear  of  personal  consequences. 

At  length  on  the  8th  of  August  Lake  Nyassa  was  reached 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Masinje  River.  “ It  was  as  if  I had 
come  back,”  says  Livingstone,  “ to  an  old  home  I never  ex- 
pected again  to  see ; and  pleasant  to  bathe  in  the  delicious 
waters  again,  hear  the  roar  of  the  sea,  and  dash  in  the  rollers.” 
He  remained  here  several  days,  working  up  his  journal,  map- 
making, and  taking  lunars  and  altitudes.  The  next  stage  of 
the  inarch  was  to  skirt  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake,  so  as  to 
reach  the  west  side,  and  this  was  accomplished  by  September 


378  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 

25th.  It  had  been  Livingstone’s  intention  to  strike  directly 
northwest  from  Lake  Nyassa  for  Lake  Tanganyika,  but  the 
danger  of  encountering  the  Mazitu,  a fierce  and  warlike  tribe 
who  occupied  the  next  district  to  the  north,  and  who  were 
constantly  making  forays  upon  the  neighboring  tribes,  so 
terrified  his  people  that  he  was  compelled  to  make  a long 
westing  till  he  struck  the  Zalyanyama  Mountains,  a low  range 
running  northwest  and  southeast.  Most  of  the  region  before 
these  mountains  are  reached  is  lowlands,  and  filled  with 
“sponges;”  Livingstone’s  description  of  the  latter  will  stand 
the  reader  in  good  stead  when  ho  comes  to  the  constant  mention 
of  these  obstructions  in  the  later  travels  towards  the  north. 

“ The  bogs,  or  earthen  sponges,  of  this  country,  occupy  a 
most  important  part  in  its  physical  geography,  and  probably 
explain  the  annual  inundations  of  most  of  the  rivers.  Wher- 
ever a plain  sloping  towards  a narrow  opening  in  hills  or 
higher  ground  exists,  there  we  have  the  conditions  requisite 
for  the  formation  of  an  African  sponge.  The  vegetation,  not 
being  of  a heathy  or  peat-forming  kind,  falls  down,  rots,  and 
then  forms  rich  black  loam.  In  many  cases  a mass  of  this 
loam,  two  or  three  feet  thick,  rests  on  a bed  of  pure  river  sand, 
which  is  revealed  by  crabs  and  other  aquatic  animals  bringing 
it  to  the  surface.  At  present,  in  the  dry  season,  the  black  loam 
is  cracked  in  all  directions,  and  the  cracks  are  often  as  much 
as  three  inches  wide,  and  very  deep.  The  whole  surface  has 
now  fallen  down,  and  rests  on  the  sand,  but  when  the  rains 
come,  the  first  supply  is  nearly  all  absorbed  in  the  sand.  The 
black  loam  forms  soft  slush,  and  floats  on  the  sand.  The  nar- 
row opening  prevents  it  from  moving  off  in  a landslip,  but  an 
oozing  spring  rises  at  that  spot.  All  the  pools  in  the  lower 

f)ortion  of  this  spring-course  are  filled  by  the  first  rains,  which 
lappen  south  of  the  equator  when  the  sun  goes  vertically  over 
any  spot.  The  second,  or  greater  rains,  happen  in  his  course 
north  again,  when  all  the  bogs  and  river-courses  being  wet,  the 
supply  runs  off,  and  forms  the  inundation : this  was  certainly 
the  case  as  observed  on  the  Zambesi  and  Shire,  and,  taking  the 
different  times  for  the  sun’s  passage  north  of  the  equator,  it  ex- 
plains the  inundation  of  the  Nile.” 

Keeping  the  Zalyanyama  range  on  the  left,  the  march  was 
now  nearly  due  north  over  a level  or  rather  gently  undulating 
country,  nearly  bare  of  trees.  Wild  animals  abounded  ; large 
troops  of  elephants  were  occasionally  seen,  engaged  for  the 
most  part  in  digging  up  roots  which  they  seem  to  relish  greatly  ; 
buffaloes,  and  elans,  and  hartebeest  were  numerous  ; and  now 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  379 


and  then  a lion  roared  at  them  as  they  passed  by.  The  people 
belong  to  the  Manganja  family,  and  are  very  industrious,  com- 
bining agriculture  and  hunting  with  nets  with  various  handi- 
crafts, of  which  blacksmithing  is  the  chief.  The  sound  of  the 
hammer  is  almost  constant  in  the  villages.  This  hammer  is 
simply  a large  stone,  bound  with  the  strong  inner  bark  of  a 
tree,  and  loops  left  which  form  handles ; two  pieces  of  bark 
form  the  tongs,  and  a big  stone  sunk  into  the  ground  the  anvil ; 
the  bellows  consist  of  two  goat-skins  with  sticks  at  the  open 
ends,  which  are  open  and  shut  at  every  blast.  Yet  with  these 
primitive  tools,  two  men  make  several  hoes  in  a day,  and  turn 
out  other  work  of  surprising  excellence.  The  metal  is  very 
good ; it  is  all  from  yellow  haematite,  which  abounds  all  over 
this  part  of  the  country.  The  people  have  quite  the  Grecian 
facial  angle ; delicate  features  and  limbs  are  common,  and  the 
spur-heel  is  as  scarce  as  among  Europeans ; small  feet  and 
hands  are  the  rule.  Many  of  the  men  have  large  slits  in  the 
lobe  of  the  ear,  and  each  tribe  has  its  distinctive  tattoo.  The 
women  indulge  in  this  painful  luxury  more  extensively  than 
the  men,  probably  because  they  have  very  few  ornaments. 
The  two  central  front  teeth  are  hollowed  at  the  cutting  edge. 
They  are  very  punctilious  amongst  each  other.  Clapping 
the  hands  in  various  ways  is  the  polite  way  of  saying  “ Allow 
me,”  “ I beg  pardon,”  “Permit  me  to  pass,”  “Thanks,”  etc;  it 
is  resorted  to  in ‘respectful  introduction  and  leave-taking,  and 
also  is  equivalent  to  “ hear,  hear.”  A large  ivory  bracelet 
marks  the  headman  of  a village,  but  there  is  nothing  else  to 
show  differences  of  rank.  The  chiefs  were  nearly  all  friendly, 
and  provided  Livingstone’s  party  with  food  and  beer  whenever 
he  stopped  with  them;  in  return  he  usually  gave  a cloth,  and 
clothing  being  very  scarce  this  was  considered  munificent.* 
Owing  to  the  Mazitu  raids,  however,  food  was  in  some  places 
almost  impossible  to  obtain,  and  more  than  once  the  caravan 
was  on  the  verge  of  starvation.  One  custom  which  we  believe 
has  not  been  found  to  exist  in  any  other  part  of  Africa  is  men- 
tioned by  Livingstone.  In  various  villages  lie  observed  minia- 
ture huts,  about  two  feet  high,  very  neatly  thatched  and  plas- 
tered. On  inquiring  what  they  were  for,  he  was  told  that  when 
a child  or  relative  dies  one  is  made,  and  when  any  pleasant 
food  is  cooked  or  beer  brewed,  a little  is  placed  in  the  tiny  hut 
for  the  departed  soul,  which  is  believed  to  enjoy  it. 

The  Loangwa  River,  the  chief  northern  feeder  of  the  Zam- 


A ‘ 4 cloth  ” means  two  yards  of  unbleached  muslin. 


380  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


besi,  was  crossed  on  December  15th  at  about  latitude  12°  45'  S. 
The  river  is  said  to  rise  in  the  north  ; it  has  alluvial  banks  with 
large  forest  trees  along  them,  the  bottom  is  sandy,  and  great 
sand  banks  are  in  it,  as  in  the  Zambesi.  The  route  beyond  this 
lay  for  many  days  through  the  Mopane  Forest,  where  there 
was  abundance  of  wild  game,  including  numerous  varieties  of 
birds ; so  many  new  notes  were  heard  that  Livingstone  regards 
it  as  probable  that  this  is  a richer  ornithological  region  than 
even  the  Zambesi.  The  inhabitants  are  called  Babisa.  They 
have  round  bullet  heads,  snub  noses,  often  high-cheek  bones, 
an  upward  slant  of  the  eyes,  and  look  as  if  they  had  a good 
deal  of  Bushman  blood  in  them ; a good  many,  indeed,  would 
pass  for  Bushmen  or  Hottentots.  The  women  have  the  fashion 
of  exposing  the  upper  part  of  the  buttocks  by  letting  a very 
stiff  cloth  fall  down  behind.  Their  teeth  are  filed  to  points, 
they  wear  no  lip-ring,  and  the  hair  is  parted  so  as  to  lie  in  a 
net  at  the  back  part  of  the  head.  The  mode  of  salutation 
among  the  men  is  to  lie  down  nearly  on  the  back,  clapping  the 
hands,  and  making  a rather  inelegant  half-kissing  sound  with 
the  lips. 

The  Chambeze  River  was  reached  on  the  26tli  of  January, 
1867.  During  the  march  thither,  all  sufFered  keenly  from 
hunger,  and  Livingstone  met  with  a loss,  the  importance  of 
which  can  hardly  be  exaggerated  when  we  witness  its  effect 
month  by  month,  on  even  his  hardy  frame.  “ There  can  be 
little  doubt,”  says  Mr.  Waller,  “that  the  severity  of  his  subse- 
quent illnesses  mainly  turned  upon  it,  and  it  is  hardly  too  much 
to  believe  that  his  constitution  from  this  time  was  steadily 
sapped  by  the  effects  of  fever-poison  which  he  was  powerless  to 
counteract,  owing  to  the  want  of  quinine.”  Before  quoting 
Livingstone’s  account  of  this  loss  it  may  be  well  to  explain 
that  after  the  desertion  of  the  Johanna  men  he  was  obliged  to 
rely  on  the.  natives  through  whose  districts  he  passed  not  only 
for  guides  but  for  porters. 

“20^4  January. — A guide  refused,  so  we  marched  without 
one.  The  two  Waiyau,  who  joined  ns  at  Kande’s  village,  now 
deserted.  They  had  been  very  faithful  all  the  way,  and 
took  our  part  in  every  case.  Kuowing  the  language  well,  they 
were  extremely  useful,  and  no  one  thought  that  they  would 
desert,  for  they  were  free  men — their  masters  had  been  killed 
by  the  Mazitu — and  this  circumstance,  and  their  uniform  good 
conduct,  made  us  trust  them  more  than  we  should  have  done 
any  others  who  had  been  slaves.  But  they  left  us  in  the  forest, 
and  heavy  rain  came  on,  which  obliterated  every  vestige  of 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  381 


their  footsteps.  To  make  the  loss  the  more  galling,  they  took 
what  we  could  least  spare — the  medicine-box,  which  they  would 
only  throw  away  as  soon  as  they  came  to  examine  their  booty. 
One  of  these  deserters  exchanged  his  load  that  morning  with  a 
boy  called  Baraka,  who  had  charge  of  the  medicine-box,  because 
he  was  so  careful.  This  was  done,  because  with  the  medicine- 
chest  were  packed  five  large  cloths  and  all  Baraka’s  clothing 
and  beads,  of  which  he  was  very  careful.  The  Waiyau  also 
offered  to  carry  this  burden  a stage  to  help  Baraka,  while  he 

fave  his  own  load,  in  which  there  was  no  cloth,  in  exchange. 

'lie  forest  was  so  dense  and  high,  there  was  no  chance  of  get- 
ting a glimpse  of  the  fugitives,  who  took  all  the  dishes,  a large 
box  of  powder,  the  Hour  we  had  purchased  dearly  to  help  us  as 
far  as  the  Chambeze,  the  tools,  two  guns,  and  a cartridge-pouch ; 
but  the  medicine-chest  was  the  sorest  loss  of  all ! 1 felt  as  if  I 

had  now  received  the  sentence  of  death,  like  poor  Bishop 
Mackenzie. 

“ All  the  other  goods  I had  divided  in  case  of  loss  or  deser- 
tion, but  had  never  dreamed  of  losing  the  precious  quinine  and 
other  remedies  ; other  losses  and  annoyances  I felt  as  just  parts 
of  that  undercurrent  of  vexations  which  is  not  wanting  in 
even  the  smoothest  life,  and  certainly  not  worthy  of  being 
moaned  over  in  the  experience  of  an  explorer  anxious  to  benefit 
a country  and  people — but  this  loss  I feel  most  keenly.”  Every 
effort  was  made  to  intercept  the  runaways  and  recover  the 
precious  box;  but  they  were  fruitless,  and  it  was  not  until 
Livingstone  met  Stanley  at  Ujiji  five  years  later  that  lie  was 
again  supplied  with  those  medicines  without  which  travel  in 
Africa  is  so  deadly. 

After  crossing  the  Chambeze  Livingstone  found  himself  in  a 
country  called  Lobemba,  and  on  the  31st  of  January  he  reached 
the  village  of  the  head  chief  Chitapangwa.  Chitapangwagave 
the  travellers  a grand  reception  and  made  a favorable  impres- 
sion upon  Livingstone  at  first  by  his  jolly  good-nature ; but  sub- 
sequently he  exhibited  on  a small  scale  all  the  rapacity  of 
Kamrasi,  and  Livingstone  was  glad  to  get  away  after  a stay  of  a 
few  days.  Holding  a northwesterly  course  from  this  point, 
numerous  small  rivers  and  rivulets  were  crossed,  and  on  the 
31st  of  March,  he  came  in  sight  of  Lake  Liemba,  which  subse- 
quent exploration  proved  to  be  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake 
Tanganyika.  The  spot  where  the  Lake  was  first  touched  is  in 
Lat.  8°  4t>'  54"  S.  Long.  31°  57'  E.  It  was  Livingstone’s  desire 
to  march  up  the  shore  of  the  Lake  and  discover  at  once  what 
its  northern  connections  were ; but  news  of  a Mazitu  raid  in 


382  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


that  direction  compelled  him  to  desist,  and  he  concluded  to 
strike  westward,  visit  Casembe,  and  explore  Lake  Moero  of 
which  lie  had  already  heard  rumors.  This  plan  he  carried  out 
fully,  in  spite  of  many  delays  ; and  after  his  arrival  at 
Casembe’s  town,  he  wrote  a despatch  to  Lord  Clarendon  dated 
December  10th,  1867  (which,  however,  was  never  sent)  in  which 
he  gives  an  epitomized  description  of  his  travels,  and  of  his 
stay  at  Casembe.*  This  despatch  is  especially  valuable  because 
it  treats  of  the  geography  of  the  whole  district  between  Lakes 
Nyassa  and  Moero,  and  we  reproduce  it  nearly  entire : 

“ . . . Lobisa,  Lobemba,  Ulungn,  and  Itawa-Lnnda  are  the 
names  by  which  the  districts  of  an  elevated  region  between  the 
parallels  11°  and  8°  south,  and  meridians  28°-33°  long,  east, 
are  known.  The  altitude  of  this  upland  is  from  4,000  to  6,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  generally  covered  with 
forest,  well  watered  by  numerous  rivulets,  and  comparatively 
cold.  The  soil  is  very  rich,  and  yields  abundantly  wherever 
cultivated.  This  is  the  watershed  between  the  Loangwa,  a 
tributary  of  the  Zambesi,  and  several  rivers  which  flow  towards 
the  north.  Of  the  latter,  the  most  remarkable  is  the  Chambeze, 
for  it  assists  in  the  formation  of  three  lakes,  and  changes  its 
name  three  times  in  the  five  or  six  hundred  miles  of  its 
course. 

“ On  leaving  Lobemba  we  entered  Ulnngu,  and,  as  we 
proceeded  northwards,  perceived  by  the  barometers  and  the 
courses  of  numerous  rivulets,  that  a decided  slope  lay  in  that 
direction.  A friendly  old  tllungu  chief,  named  Kasonso,  on 
hearing  that  I wished  to  visit  Lake  Liemba,  which  lies  in  his 
country,  gave  his  son  with  a large  escort  to  guide  me  thither ; 
and  on  the  2d  April  last  we  reached  the  brim  of  the  deep  cup- 
like cavity  in  which  the  lake  reposes.  The  descent  is  2,000  feet, 
and  still  the  surface  of  the  water  is  upwards  of  2,500  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  sides  of  the  hollow  are  very 
steep,  and  sometimes  the  rocks  run  the  whole  2,000  feet  sheer 
down  to  the  water.  Nowhere  is  there  three  miles  of  level 
land  from  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  to  the  shore,  but  top,  sides,  and 
bottom  are  covered  with  well-grown  wood  and  grass,  except 
where  the  bare  rocks  protrude.  The  scenery  is  extremely 
beautiful.  The  1 Aeasy/a  stream  of  15  yards  broad  and  thigh 
deep  came  down  alongside  our  precipitous  path,  and  formed 

* This  term  is  applied  by  Livingstone  indiscriminately  to  the  ruler,  his  town, 
and  his  country.  Properly  speaking,  as  Livingstone  explains  in  one  place, 
Casembe  is  a title,  and  means  general.  The  country  of  Casembe  is  called 
Londa  or  Lunda. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  3S3 


cascades  by  leaping  300  feet  at  a time.  These,  with  the  bright 
red  of  the  clay  scl lists  among  the  greenwood-trees,  made  the 
dullest  of  my  attendants  pause  and  remark  with  wonder. 
Antelopes,  buffaloes,  and  elephants  abound  on  the  steep  slopes ; 
and  lnppopotomi,  crocodiles,  and  fish  swarm  in  the  water. 
Gnus  arc  here  unknown,  and  these  animals  may  live  to  old  age 
if  not  beguiled  into  pitfalls.  The  elephants  sometimes  eat  the 
crops  of  the  natives,  and  flap  their  big  ears  just  outside  the 
village  stockades.  One  got  out  of  our  way  on  to  a compara- 
tively level  spot,  and  then  stood  and  roared  at  us.  Elsewhere 
they  make  clear  off  at  sight  of  man. 

“The  first  village  we  came  to  on  the  banks  of  the  Lake  had 
a grove  of  palm-oil  and  other  trees  around  it.  This  palm-tree 
was  not  the  dwarf  species  seen  on  Lake  Nyassa.  A cluster  of 
the  fruit  passed  the  door  of  my  hut  which  required  two  men  to 
carry  it.  The  fruit  seemed  quite  as  large  as  those  on  the  West 
Coast.  Most  of  the  natives  live  on  two  islands,  where  they 
cultivate  the  soil,  rear  goats,  and  catch  fish.  The  lake  is  not 
large,  from  15  to  20  miles  broad,  and  from  30  to  40  long.  It 
is  the  receptacle  of  four  considerable  streams,  and  sends  out  an 
arm  two  miles  broad  to  the  N.N.W.,  it  is  said  to  Tanganyika, 
and  it  may  be  a branch  of  that  Lake.  One  of  the  streams,  the 
Lonzua,  drives  a smooth  body  of  water  into  the  Lake  fifty 
yards  broad  and  ten  fathoms  deep,  bearing  on  its  surface  duck- 
weed and  grassy  islands.  I could  see  the  mouths  of  other 
streams,  but  got  near  enough  to  measure  the  Lofu  only ; and  at 
a ford  fifty  miles  from  the  confluence  it  was  100  yards  wide  and 
waist  deep  in  the  dry  season. 

“ We  remained  six  weeks  on  the  shores  of  the  Lake,  trying 
to  pick  up  some  flesh  and  strength.  A party  of  Arabs  came 
into  Ulungu  after  us  iri  search  of  ivory,  and  hearing  that  an 
Englishman  had  preceded  them,  naturally  inquired  where  I 
was.  But  our  friends,  the  Blulungu,  suspecting  that  mischief 
was  meant,  stoutly  denied  that  they  had  ever  seen  anything  of 
the  sort ; and  then  became  very  urgent  that  I should  go  on  to 
one  of  the  inhabited  islands  for  safety.  I regret  that  I sus- 
pected them  of  intending  to  make  me  a prisoner  there,  which 
they  could  easily  have  done  by  removing  the  canoes ; but  when 
the  villagers  who  deceived  the  Arabs  told  me  afterwards  with 
an  air  of  triumph  how  nicely  they  had  managed,  I saw  that 
they  had  only  been  anxious  for  my  safety.  On  three  occasions 
the  same  friendly  disposition  was  shown  ; and  when  we  went 
round  the  west  side  of  the  Lake  in  order  to  examine  the  arm 
or  branch  above  referred  to,  the  headman  at  the  confluence  of 


384  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


the  Lofu  protested  so  strongly  against  my  going — the  Aral>9 
had  been  fighting,  and  I might  be  mistaken  for  an  Arab,  and 
killed — that  I felt  half-inclined  to  believe  him.  Two  Arab 
slaves  entered  the  village  the  same  afternoon  in  search  of  ivory, 
and  confirmed  all  he  had  said.  We  now  altered  onr  course, 
•intending  to  go  south  about  the  district  disturbed  by  the  Arabs. 
When  we  had  gone  60  miles  we  heard  that  the  head  quarters  of 
the  Arabs  were  22  miles  farther.  They  had  found  ivory  very 
cheap,  and  pushed  on  to  the  west,  till  attacked  by  a chief 
named  Nsama,  whom  they  beat  in  his  own  stockade.  They 
were  now  at  a loss  which  way  to  turn.  On  reaching  Chitimba’s 
village  (lat.  8°  57'  55"  S. ; long.  30°  20'  E.),  I found  them  about 
600  in  all ; and,  on  presenting  a letter  I had  from  the  Sultan  of 
Zanzibar,  was  immediately  supplied  with  provisions,  beads,  and 
cloth.  They  approved  of  my  plan  of  passing  to  the  south  of 
Nsama’s  country,  but  advised  waiting  till  the  effects  of  punish- 
ment, which  the  Baulnngu  had  resolved  to  inflict  on  Nsama  for 
breach  of  public  law,  were  known.  It  had  always  been  under- 
stood that  whoever  brought  goods  into  the  country  was  to  be 
protected ; and  two  hours  after  my  arrival  at  Chitimba’s,  the 
son  of  Kasonso,  our  guide,  marched  in  with  his  contingent.  It 
was  anticipated  that  Nsama  might  flee ; if  to  the  north,  he 
would  leave  me  a free  passage  through  his  country  ; if  to  the 
south,  I might  be  saved  from  walking  into  his  hands.  But  it 
turned  out  that  Nsama  wras  anxious  for  peace.  He  had  sent 
two  men  with  elephants’  tusks  to  begin  a negotiation ; but 
treachery  was  suspected,  and  they  were  shot  down.  Another 
effort  was  made  with  ten  goats,  and  repulsed.  This  w*as  much 
to  the  regret  of  the  head  Arabs.  It  was  fortunate  for  me  that 
the  Arab  goods  vrere  not  all  sold,  for  Lake  Moero  lay  in  Nsama’s 
country,  and  without  peace  no  ivory  could  bo  bought,  nor  could 
I reach  the  Lake.  The  peace-making  between  the  people  and 
Arabs  was,  however,  a tedious  process,  occupying  three  and  a 
half  months  drinking  each  other’s  blood.  This,  as  I saw  it 
west  of  this  in  1854,  is  not  more  horrible  than  the  thirtieth 
dilution  of  deadly  night-shade  or  strychnine  is  in  homoeopathy. 
I thought  that  had  I been  an  Arab  I could  easily  swallow  that, 
but  not  the  next  means  of  cementing  the  peace — marrying  a 
black  wife.  Nsama’s  daughter  was  the  bride,  and  she  turned 
out  very  pretty.  She  came  riding  pickaback  on  a man’s 
shoulders  ; this  is  the  most  dignified  conveyance  that  chiefs  and 
their  families  can  command.  She  had  ten  maids  with  her,  each 
carrying  a basket  of  provisions,  and  all  having  the  same 
beautiful  features  as  herself.  She  was  taken  by  the  principal 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  385 


Arab,  but  soon  showed  that  she  preferred  her  father  to  her 
husband,  for  seeing  preparations  made  to  6cnd  oft'  to  purchase 
ivory,  she  suspected  that  her  father  was  to  be  attacked,  and 
made  her  escape.  I then  visited  Nsama,  and,  as  lie  objected  to 
many  people  coming  near  him,  took  only  three  of  my  eight 
attendants.  Ilis  people  were  very  much  afraid  of  fire-arms, 
and  felt  all  my  clothing  to  sec  if  I had  any  concealed  on  my 
person.  Nsama  is  an  old  man,  with  head  and  face  like  those 
sculptured  on  the  Assyrian  monuments.  lie  has  been  a great 
conqueror  in  his  time,  and  with  bows  and  arrows  was  invincible, 
lie  is  said  to  have  destroyed  many  native  traders  from  Tangan- 
yika, but  twenty  Arab  guns  made  him  fice  from  his  own 
stockade,  and  caused  a great  sensation  in  the  country.  lie  was 
much  taken  with  my  hair  and  woolen  clothing ; but  his  people, 
heedless  of  his  scolding,  so  pressed  upon  us  that  we  could  not 
converse,  and,  after  promising  to  send  for  me  to  talk  during  the 
night,  our  interview  ended.  He  promised  guides  to  Moero,  and 
sent  us  more  provisions  than  we  could  carry ; but  showed  so 
much  distrust,  that  after  all  we  went  without  his  assistance. 

“ Nsama’s  people  are  particularly  handsome.  Many  of  the 
men  have  as  beautiful  heads  as  one  could  find  in  an  assembly 
of  Europeans.  All  have  very  fine  forms,  with  small  hands  and 
feet.  None  of  the  West-coast  ugliness,  from  which  most  of 
our  ideas  of  the  Negroes  arc  derived,  is  here  to  be  seen.  No 
prognathous  jaws  nor  lark  heels  offended  the  sight.  My  ob- 
servations deepened  the  impression  first  obtained  from  the  re- 
marks of  Winwood  Reade,  that  the  typical  Negro  is  seen  in  the 
ancient  Egyptian,  and  not  in  the  ungainly  forms  which  grow 
up  in  the  unhealthy  swamps  of  the  West  Coast.  Indeed  it  is 
probable  that  this  upland  forest  region  is  the  true  home  of  the 
Negro.  The  women  excited  the  admiration  of  the  Arabs. 
They  have  fine,  small,  well-formed  features:  their  great  defect 
is  one  of  fashion,  which  does  not  extend  to  the  next  tribe;  they 
file  their  teeth  to  points,  the  hussies,  and  that  makes  their  smile 
like  that  of  the  crocodile. 

“Nsama's  country  is  called  Itawa,  and  his  principal  town  is 
in  lat.  8°  55'  S.,  and  long.  29°  21'  E.  From  the  large  popula- 
tion he  had  under  him,  Itawa  is  in  many  parts  well  cleared  of 
trees  for  cultivation,  and  it  is  lower  than  IJlungn,  being  gener- 
ally about  3,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Long  lines  of  tree-cov- 
ered hills  raised  some  GOO  or  700  feet  above  these  \ alley3  of  de- 
nudation, prevent  the  scenery  from  being  monotonous.  Large 
game  is  abundant.  Elephants,  buffaloes,  and  zebras  gra;:cd  in 
large  numbers  on  the  long  sloping  banks  of  a river  called  Chis-. 

25 


38G  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


era.  a mile  and  a half  broad.  In  going  north  we  crossed  this 
river,  or  rather  marsh,  which  is  full  of  papyrus  plants  and 
reeds.  Our  ford  was  an  elephant’s  path  ; and  the  roots  of  the 
papyrus,  though  a carpet  to  these  animals,  were  sharp  and  sore 
to  feet  usually  protected  by  shoes,  dud  often  ‘ made  us  shrink 
and  flounder  into  holes  chest  deep.  The  Chisera  forms  a 
larger  marsh  west  of  this,  and  it  gives  off  its  water  to  the  Ka- 
longosi,  a feeder  of  Lake  Moero. 

4i  The  Arabs  sent  out  men  in  all  directions  to  purchase 
ivory;  but  their  victory  over  Nsama  had  created  a panic 
among  the  tribes,  which  no  verbal  assurances  could  allay.  If 
Nsaina  had  been  routed  by  twenty  Arab  guns  no  one  could 
stand  before  them  but  Cascmbe ; and  Cascmbe  had  issued 
strict  ordeis  to  his  people  not  to  allow  the  Arabs  who  fought 
Is  sain  a to  enter  his  country.  They  did  not  attempt  to  force 
their  way,  but  after  sending  friendly  messages  and  presents  to 
different  chiefs,  when  these  were  not  cordially  received,  turned 
off  in  some  other  direction,  and  at  last,  despairing  of  more 
ivory,  turned  homewards.  From  flrst  to  last  they  were  ex- 
tremely kind  to  me,  and  showed  all  due  respect  to  the  Sultan’s 
letter.  I am  glad  that  I was  witness  to  their  mode  of  trading 
in  ivory  and  slaves.  It  formed  a complete  contrast  to  the  atro- 
cious dealings  of  the  Kilwa  traders,  who  are  supposed  to  be, 
but  are  not,  the  subjects  of  the  same  Sultan.  If  one  wished 
to  depict  the  slave-trade  in  its  most  attractive,  or  rather  least 
objectionable  form,  he  would  accompany  these  gentlemen  sub- 
jects of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar.*  If  he  would  describe  the 
land  traffic  in  its  most  disgusting  phases,  he  would  follow  the 
Kilwa  traders  along  the  road  to  Nyassa,  or  the  Portuguese 
half-castes  from  Tette  to  the  River  Shire. 

Keeping  to  the  north  of  Nsama  altogether,  and  moving 
westwards,  our  small  party  reached  the  north  end  of  Moero  on 
the  8th  of  November  last.  There  the  Lake  is  a goodly  piece 
of  water  twelve  or  more  miles  broad,  and  flanked  on  the  east 
and  west  by  ranges  of  lofty  tree-covered  mountains.  The 
range  on  the  west  is  the  highest,  and  is  part  of  the  country 
called  Rua- Moero;  it  gives  off  a river  at  its  northwest  end 
called  Lualaba,  and  receives  the  River  Kalongosi  (pronounced 
by  the  Arabs  Karungwesi)  on  the  east  near  its  middle,  and  the 
rivers  Luapula  and  Rovukwe  at  its  southern  extremity.  The 
point  of  most  interest  in  Lake  Moero  is  that  it  forms  one  of  a 

* It  will  be  seen  further  on  that  Livingstone  found  abundant  i eason  to 
change  this  opinion,  and  to  convince  him  that  the  degrading  traffic  is  sub- 
stantially the  same  by  whomsoever  carried  on. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  387 


chain  of  lakes,  connected  by  a river  some  500  miles  in  length. 
First  of  all  the  Cliambeze  rises  in  the  country  of  Mambwe, 
N.E.  of  Molcmba.  It  then  flows  southwest  and  west  till  it 
reaches  lat.  11°  S.,  and  long.  29°  E.,  where  it  forms  Lake 
Bemba  or  Bangweolo,  emerging  thence  it  assumes  the  new 
name  Luapula,  and  comes  down  here  to  fall  into  Moero.  On 
going  out  of  this  Lake  it  is  known  by  the  name  Lualaba,  as  it 
flows  N.W.  in  Rua  to  form  another  lake  with  many  islands 
called  Urenge  or  Ulengtk  Beyond  this,  information  is  not 
positive  as  to  whether  it  enters  Tanganyika  or  another  Lake 
beyond  that.  When  I crossed  the  Cliambeze,  the  similarity  of 
names  led  me  to  imagine  that  this  was  a branch  of  the  Zam- 
besi. The  natives  said  ‘ No.  This  goes  southwest,  and  forms 
a very  large  water  there.’  But  I had  become  prepossessed 
with  the  idea  that  Lake  Liemba  was  that  Bemba  of  which  I 
had  heard  in  1863,  and  we  had  been  so  starved  in  the  south 
that  I gladly  set  my  face  north.  The  river-like  prolongation 
of  Liemba  might  go  to  Moero,  and  where  I could  not  follow 
the  arm  of  Liemba.  Then  I worked  my  way  to  this  lake. 
Since  coming  to  Casembe’s  the  testimony  of  natives  and  Arabs 
has  been  so  united  and  consistent,  that  I am  but  ten  days  from 
Lake  Bemba.or  Bangweolo,  that  I cannot  doubt  its  accuracy. 
I am  so  tired  of  exploration  without  a word  from  home  or  any- 
where else  for  two  years,  that  I must  go  to  Ujiji  on  Tangan- 
yika for  letters  before  doing  anything  else.  The  banks  and 
country  adjacent  to  Lake  Bangweolo  are  reported  to  be  now 
very  muddy  and  very  unhealthy.  I have  no  medicine.  The 
inhabitants  suffer  greatly  from  swelled  thyroid  gland  or  Derby- 
shire neck  and  elephantiasis,  and  this  is  the  rainy  season  and 
very  unsafe  for  me. 

“ When  at  the  lower  end  of  Moero  we  were  so  near  Casembe 
that  it  was  thought  well  to  ascertain  the  length  of  the  Lake, 
and  see  Casembe  too.  We  came  up  between  the  double  range 
that  flanks  the  east  of  the  Lake  ; but  mountains  and  plains  are 
so  covered  with  well-grown  forest  that  we  could  seldom  see  it. 
We  reached  Casembe’s  town  on  the  28th  November.  It  stands 
near  the  north  end  of-  the  Lakelet  Mofwe  ; this  is  from  one  to 
three  miles  broad,  and  some  six  or  seven  long:  it  is  full  of 
sedgy  islands,  and  abounds  in  fish.  The  country  is  quite  level, 
but  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  west  of  Mofwe  we  see  a long  range 
of  the  mountains  of  Rua.  Between  this  range  and  Mofwe  the 
Luapula  flows  past  into  Moero,  the  Lake  called  Moero  okata 
= the  great  Moero,  being  about  fifty  miles  long.  The  town  of 
Casembe  covers  a mile  square  of  cassava  plantations,  the  huts 


388  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


being  dotted  over  that  space.  Some  have  square  enclosures  of 
reeds,  but  no  attempt  has  been  made  at  arrangement : it  might 
be  called  a rural  village  rather  than  a town.  No  estimate 
could  be  formed  by  counting  the  lints,  they  were  so  irregularly 
planted,  and  hidden  by  cassava  ; but  my  impression  from  other 
collections  of  lints  was  that  the  population  was  under  a thou- 
sand souls.  The  court  or  compound  of  Caseinbe — some  would 
call  it  a palace — is  a square  enclosure  of  300  yards  by  200 
yards.  It  is  surrounded  by  a hedge  of  high  reeds.  Inside, 
where  Casembe  honored  me  with  a grand  reception,  stands  a 
gigantic  hut  for  Casembe,  and  a score  of  small  huts  for  domes- 
tics. The  Queen’s  hut  stands  behind  that  of  the  chief,  with  a 
number  of  small  huts  also.  Most  of  the  enclosed  space  is  cov- 
ered with  a plantation  of  cassava,  C urcuts purqaris,  and  cotton. 
Casembe  sat  before  his  hut  on  a square  seat  placed  on  lion  and 
leopard  skins.  He  was  clothed  in  a coarse  blue  and  white 
Manchester  print  edged  with  red  baize,  and  arranged  in  large 
folds  so  as  to  look  like  a crinoline  put  on  wrong  side  foremost. 
His  arms,  legs,  and  head  were  covered  with  sleeves,  leggings 
and  cap  made  of  various  colored  beads  in  neat  patterns : a 
crown  of  yellow  feathers  surmounted  his  cap.  Each  of  his 
head-men  came  forward,  shaded  by  a huge,  ill-made  umbrella, 
and  followed  by  his  dependants,  made  obeisance  to  Casembe, 
and  sat  down  on  his  right  and  left : various  bands  of  musicians 
did  the  same.  When  called  upon  I rose  and  bowed,  and  an 
old  counsellor,  with  his  ears  cropped,  gave  the  chief  as  full  an 
account  as  he  had  been  able  to  gather  during  our  stay  of  the 
English  in  general,  and  my  antecedents  in  particular.  My 
having  passed  through  Lunda  to  the  west  of  Casembe,  and 
visited  chiefs  of  whom  he  scarcely  knew  anything,  excited 
most  attention.  He  then  assured  me  that  I was  welcome  to 
his  country,  to  go  where  I liked,  and  do  what  I chose.  We 
then  went  (two  boys  carrying  his  train  behind  him)  to  an  inner 
apartment,  where  the  articles  of  my  present  were  exhibited  in 
detail.  He  had  examined  them  privately  before,  and  we  knew 
that  he  was  satisfied.  They  consisted  of  eight  yards  of  orange- 
colored  serge,  a large  striped  tablecloth  ; another  large  cloth 
made  at  Manchester  in  imitation  of  West  Coast  native  manu- 
facture, which  never  fails  to  excite  the  admiration  of  Arabs 
and  natives,  and  a large  richly  gilded  comb  for  the  back  hair, 
such  as  ladies  wore  fifty  years  ago : this  was  given  to  me  by  a 
friend  at  Liverpool,  and  as  Casembe  and  Nsama’s  people  culti- 
vate the  hair  into  large  knobs  behind,  I was  sure  that  this  arti- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  389 


cle  would  tickle  the  fancy.  Casembe  expressed  himself 
pleased,  and  again  bade  me  welcome. 

“ I had  another  interview,  and  tried  to  dissuade  him  from 
selling  his  people  as  slaves,  lie  listened  awhile,  then  broke 
off  into  a tirade  on  the  greatness  of  his  country,  his  power  and 
dominion,  which  Mohamad  bin  Saleh,  who  has  been  here  for 


HEAD-DRESSES  IN  LONDA  (LUNDA). 


ten  years,  turned  into  ridicule,  and  made  the  audience  laugh 
by  telling  how  other  Lunda  chiefs  had  given  me  oxen  and 
sheep,  while  Casembe  had  only  a poor  little  goat  and  some  fish 
to  bestow.  lie  insisted  also  that  there  were  but  two  sovereigns 
in  the  world,  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  and  Victoria.  When  we 
went  on  a third  occasion  to  bid  Casembe  farewell,  lie  was  much 


390  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


less  distant,  and  gave  me  the  impression  that  I could  soon  be- 
come friends  with  him;  but  he  has  an  ungainly  look,  and  an 
outward  squint  in  each  eye.  A number  of  human  skulls 
adorned  the  entrance  to  his  courtyard;  and  great  numbers  of 
his  principal  men  having  their  ears  cropped,  and  some  with 
their  hands  lopped  off,  showed  his  barbarous  way  of  making 
his  ministers  attentive  and  honest.  I could  not  avoid  indulg- 
ing a prejudice  against  him. 

“ The  Portuguese  visited  Casembe  long  ago  ; but  as  each  new 
Casembe  builds  a new  town,  it  is  not  easy  to  fix  on  the  exact  spot 
to  which  strangers  came.  The  last  seven  Casembes  have  had 
their  towns  within  seven  miles  of  the  present  one.  Dr.  Lacerda, 
Governor  of  Tette,  on  the  Zambesi,  was  the  only  visitor  of  scien- 
tific attainments,  and  he  died  at  the  rivulet  called  Clnmgu, 
three  or  four  miles  from  this.  The  spot  is  called  Nshinda, 
or  Inchinda,  which  the  Portuguese  wrote  Lucenda  or  Ucenda. 
The  latitude  given  is  nearly  fifty  miles  wrong,  but  the  natives 
say  that  he  lived  only  ten  days  after  his  arrival,  and  if,  as  is. 
probable,  his  mind  was  clouded  with  fever  when  he  last  ob- 
served, those  who  have  experienced  what  that  is  will  readily 
excuse  any  mistake  he  may  have  made.  Ilis  object  was  to  ac- 
complish a much-desired  project  of  the  Portuguese  to  have  an 
overland  communication  between  their  eastern  and  western 
possessions.  This  was  never  made  by  any  of  the  Portuguese 
nation  ; but  two  black  traders  succeeded  partially  with  a part 
of  the  distance,  crossing  once  from  Cassange,  in  Angola,  to 
Tette  on  the  Zambesi,  and  returning  with  a letter  from  the 
Governor  of  Mosambique.  It  is  remarkable  that  this  journey 
which  was  less  by  a thousand  miles  than  from  sea  to  sea  and 
back  again,  should  have  forever  quenched  all  white  Portuguese 
aspirations  for  an  overland  route. 

“ The  different  Casembes  visited  by  the  Portuguese  seem  to 
have  varied  much  in  character  and  otherwise.  Pereira,  the 
first  visitor,  said  (I  quote  from  memory)  that  Casembe  had 
20,000  trained  soldiers,  watered  his  streets  daily,  and  sacrificed 
twenty  human  victims  every  day.  I could  hear  nothing  of 
human  sacrifices  now,  and  it  is  questionable  if  the  present 
Casembe  could  bring  a thousand  stragglers  into  the  field. 
When  lie  usurped  power  five  years  ago,  his  country  was  densely 
peopled  ; but  he  was  so  severe  in  his  punishments — cropping 
the  ears,  lopping  off  the  hands,  and  other  multilations,  selling 
the  children  for  very  slight  offences,  that  his  subjects  grad- 
ually dispersed  themselves  in  the  neighboring  countries  be- 
yond his  power.  This  is  the  common  mode  by  which  tyranny 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  391 


is  cured  in  parts  like  these,  where  fugitives  are  never  returned. 
Tho  present  Casernbo  is  very  poor.  When  lie  had  people  who 
killed  elephants  he  was  too  stingy  to  share  the  profits 
of  the  sale  of  the  ivory  with  his  subordinates.  The  elephant 
hunters  have  either  left  him  or  neglect  hunting,  so  he  has  no 
tusks  to  sell  to  the  Arab  traders  who  come  from  Tanganyika. 
Major  Monteiro,  the  third  Portuguese  who  visited  Casembe, 
appeal’s  to  have  been  badly  treated  by  this  man’s  predecessor, 
and  no  other  of  his  nation  has  ventured  so  far  since.  They  do 
not  lose  much  by  remaining  away,  for  a little  ivory  and  slaves 
are  all  that  Casembe  ever  can  have  to  sell.  About  a month  to 
the  west  of  this  the  people  of  Katanga  smelt  copper-ore 
(malachite)  into  large  bars  shaped  like  the  capital  letter  1. 
They  may  be  met  with  of  from  50  lbs.  to  100  lbs.  weight  all 
over  the  countr}7,  and  the  inhabitants  draw  the  copper  into  wire 
for  armlets  and  leglets.  Gold  is  also  found  at  Katanga,  and 
specimens  were  lately  sent  to  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar. 

“ As  we  come  down  from  the  watershed  toward  Tanganyika 
we  enter  an  area  of  the  earth’s  surface  still  disturbed  by  inter- 
nal igneous  action.  A hot  fountain  in  the  country  of  Nsama 
is  often  used  to  boil  cassava  and  maize.  Earthquakes  are  by 
no  means  rare.  We  experienced  the  shock  of  one  while  at 
Ohitirnba’s  village,  and  they  extend  as  far  as  Cassembe’s.  I 
felt  as  if  afloat,  and  as  huts  would  not  fall  there  was  no  sense 
of  danger ; some  of  them  that  happened  at  night  set  the  fowls 
a-cackling.  The  most  remarkable  effect  of  this  one  wa3  that 
it  changed  the  rates  of  the  chronometers  ; no  rain  fell  after  it. 
No  one  had  access  to  the  chronometers  but  myself,  and,  as  I 
never  heard  of  this  effect  before,  I may  mention  that  one  which 
lost  with. great  regularity  Is 5 daily,  lost  15s;  another,  whose 
rate  since  leaving  the  coast  was  15",  lost  40s;  and  a third, 
which  gained  6"  daily,  stopped  altogether.  Some  of  Nsama’s 
people  ascribed  the  earthquakes  to  the  hot  fountain,  because  it 
showed  unusual  commotion  on  these  occasions ; another  hot 
fountain  exists  nearer  Tanganyika  than  Nsaina’s,  and  we 
passed  one  on  the  shores  of  Moero. 

“We  could  not  understand  why  the  natives  called  Moero 
much  larger  than  Tanganyika  till  we  saw  both.  The  greater 
Lake  lies  in  a comparatively  narrow  trough,  with  highland  on 
each  side,  which  is  always  visible ; but  when  we  look  at  Moero, 
to  the  south  of  the  mountains  of  Ilua  on  the  west,  we  have 
nothing  but  an  apparently  boundless  sea  horizon.  The  Luapula 
and  Rovukwo  form  a marsh  at  the  southern  extremity,  and 
Casembe  dissuaded  me  from  entering  it,  but  sent  a man  to 


392  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


guide  me  to  different  points  of  Moero  further  down.  From 
the  heights  at  which  the  southern  portions  were  seen,  it  must  be 
from  forty  to  sixty  miles  broad.  From  the  south  end  of  the 
mountains  of  Rua  (9°  4'  south  lat.)  it  is  thirty-three  miles 
broad.  No  native  ever  attempts  to  cross  it  even  here.  Its 
fisheries  are  of  great  value  to  the  inhabitants,  and  the  produce 
is  carried  to  great  distances.” 

A few  days  after  his  arrivel  at  Lake  Liemba,  Livingstone 
had  an  attack  which  showed  him  the  power  of  fever  when  un- 
checked by  medicine,  and  a recurrence  of  his  symptoms  at  Ca- 
sembe’s  made  him  anxious  to  proceed  to  Ujiji  in  order  to  re- 
cuperate and  replenish  his  stores  before  pursuing  his  explora- 
tions. He  actually  set  out  for  Lake  Tanganyika,  but  was  soon 
convinced  that  the  intervening  country  was  impassable  until 
the  rainy  season  was  over.  This  involved  a delay  of  several 
months,  and  before  these  had  passed  and  the  season  for  travel 
come  round  again,  he  had  determined  to  explore  Lake  Bang- 
weolo  before  going  north.  He  hoped  to  complete  the  explora- 
tion early  in  1868 ; but  owing  first  to  the  desertion  of  several 
of  his  men  who  refused  to  turn  back,  and  secondly  to  Ca- 
sern be’s  postponements  and  delays,  it  was  the  11th  of  June 
(1868)  before  he  started  from  Casembe’s  town  on  his  way  south. 
His  journey  was  wholly  without  incident  requiring  special 
mention,  unless  we  except  one  which  has  rather  more  of  a per- 
sonal interest  than  Livingstone  often  imparted  even  to  his  pri- 
vate diaries.  Under  date  of  June  25th  he  writes : — “ We  came 
to  a grave  in  the  forest ; it  was  a little  rounded  mound  as  if 
the  occupant  sat  in  it  in  the  usual  native  way  : it  was  strewed 
over  with  flour,  and  a number  of  the  large  blue  beads  put  on  it : 
a little  path  showed  that  it  had  visitors.  This  is  a sort  of 
grave  I should  prefer:  to  lie  in  the  still,  still  forest,  and  no 
hand  ever  disturb  my  bones.  The  graves  at  home  always  seem 
to  me  to  be  miserable,  especially  those  in  the  cold  damp  clay, 
and  without  elbow  room;  but  I have  nothing  to  do  but  wait 
till  He  who  is  over  all,  decides  where  I have  to  lay  me  down 
and  die.  Poor  Mary  lies  on  Shupanga  brae,  ‘ and  beeks  for- 
nent  the  sun.’  ” * 

It  was  on  the  18th  of  July  that  Dr.  Livingstone  discovered 
one  of  the  largest  of  the  Central  African  Lakes ; and  it  is  ex- 
traordinary to  notice  the  total  absence  of  all  pride  and  enthu- 
siasm, as — almost  parenthetically — he  records  the  fact.  “ 17 th 
and  18th  July. — Reached  the  chief  village  of  Mapuni,  near 


* The  allusion  is  to  Mrs.  Livingstone's  grave. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  BEAT II.  S03 


the  north  bank  of  Bangweolo.  On  the  18th  I walked  a little 
way  out,  and  saw  the  shores  of  the  Lake  for  the  first  time, 
thankful  that  1 had  come  safely  hither.”  lie  made  a canoe 
voyage  during  the  next  few  days  which  gave  him  an  idea  of 
its  size,  and  lie  thinks  he  is  considerably  within  the  mark  in 
setting  down  Bangweolo  as  150  miles  long,  by  80  broad.  Its 
northern  edge  extends  a little  north  of  11°  S.  lat.,  while  its 
southern  shore  just  touches  upon  12°.  The  Luapula  River, 
which  forms  its  outlet  at  the  western  end,  is  an  arm  of  the  Lake 
for  some  20  miles,  and  beyond  that  is  never  narrower  than  from 
180  to  200  yards,  generally  much  broader.  The  Lake  contains 
four  large  islands,  but  even  the  largest,  Chirubi,  does  not  in  the 
least  dwarf  the  enormous  mass  of  the  water  of  Bangweolo. 
The  country  around  the  Lake  is  all  flat,  and  very  much  de- 
nuded of  trees,  except  the  Motsikisi  or  Mosikisi,  which  has 
fine  dark,  dense  foliage,  and  is  spared  for  its  shade  and  for  the 
fatty  oil  yielded  by  its  seeds : Livingstone  saw  the  people  boil- 
ing large  pots  full  of  the  dark-brown  fat,  which  they  use  as  a 
pomade  for  their  hair.  All  the  islands  are  flat,  but  well  peo- 
pled. The  men  have  many  canoes,  and  are  all  expert  fisher- 
men ; they  are  called  Mbozhwa,  but  are  marked  on  the  fore- 
head and  chin  as  Babisa,  and  file  the  teeth  to  points.  They 
have  many  children,  as  fishermen  usually  have.  The  women 
ornament  their  hair  with  strings  of  cowries,  and  lubricate  it 
freely  with  the  6il  mentioned  above. 

On  his  way  back  from  the  lake,  Livingstone  found  that  his 
Arab  associates  of  the  last  few  montlis  had  taken  up  Ca- 
sembe’s  cause  against  the  devastating  hordes  of  the  Mazitu, 
who  had  swept  down  on  these  parts,  and  repulsed  them.  But 
here  a fresh  complication  arose.  Cascmbe  and  Chikumbi,  one 
of  his  principal  chiefs,  became  alarmed  lest  the  Arabs,  feeling 
their  own  power,  should  turn  upon  them  and  take  possession  of 
the  whole  country,  so  they  joined  forces  and  attempted  to 
storm  the  stockade  of  Kombotombo,  one  of  the  leading  Arabs. 
They  suffered  a severe  defeat  in  this  attempt ; but  the  whole 
country  was  thrown  into  confusion,  all  was  turmoil  and  panic, 
and  for  several  months  travel  or  exploration  wa3  rendered  im- 
possible. During  this  period,  Livingstone  seems  to  have  been 
unable  to  find  opportunity  to  make  daily  entries  in  his  journal ; 
several  times  his  life  was  in  imminent  danger ; but  he  took 
advantage  of  his  recent  experience  and  enforced  leisure  to 
write  out  an  elaborate  treatise  on  the  climate  of  this  region, 
which  is  exceedingly  important,  bearing  as  it  does  upon  the 
question  of  the  periodical  Hoods  on  the  rivers  which  drain  the 


394  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


enormous  cistern-lakes  of  Central  Africa.  It  has  an  additional 
interest  too  from  the  fact  that  it  brings  forward  for  the  first 
time,  Livingstone’s  theory  as  to  the  primary  or  ultimate  sources 
of  the  Nile^’ 

“ The  notion  of  a rainy  zone,  in  which  the  clouds  deposit 
their  treasures  in  perpetual  showers,  has  received  no  confirma- 
tion from  my  observations.  In  186G-7,  the  rainfall  was  42 
inches.  In  i 867-8,  it  amounted  to  53  inches:  this  is  nearly 
the  same  as  falls  in  the  same  latitudes  on  the  West  Coast.  In 
both  years  the  rains  ceased  entirely  in  May,  and  with  the  excep- 
tion of  two  partial  thunder  showers  on  the  middle  of  the  water- 
shed, no  rain  fell  till  the  middle  and  end  of  October,  and  then, 
even  in  November,  it  was  partial,  and  limited  to  small  patches  of 
country ; but  scarcely  a day  passed  between  October  and  May 
without  a good  deal  of  thunder.  When  the  thunder  began  to  roll 
or  rumble,  that  was  taken  by  the  natives  as  an  indication  of  the 
near  cessation  of  the  rains.  The  middle  of  the  watershed  is 
the  most  humid  part : one  sees  the  great  humidity  of  its  cli- 
mate at  once  in  the  trees,  old  and  young,  being  thickly  cov- 
ered with  lichens;  some  flat,  on  the  trunks  and  branches; 
others  long  and  thready,  like  the  beards  of  old  men  waving  in 
the  wind.  Large  orchids  on  the  trees  in  company  with  the 
profusion  of  lichens  are  seen  nowhere  else,  except  in  the  man- 
grove swamps  of  the  sea-coast. 

“I  cannot  account  for  the  great  humidity  of  the  watershed  as 
compared  with  the  rest  of  the  country,  but  by  the  prevailing 
winds  and  the  rains  being  from  the  south-east,  and  thus  from  the 
Indian  Ocean  : with  this  wind  generally  on  the  surface  one  can 
observe  an  upper  strong  wind  from  the  north-west,  that  is,  from 
the  low  humid  West  Coast  and  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  double 
strata  of  wind  can  easily  be  observed  when  there  are  two  sheets 
of  clouds,  or  when  burning  grass  over  scores  of  square  miles 
sends  up  smoke  sufficiently  high  to  be  caught  by  the  upper  or 
north-west  wind.  These  winds  probably  meet  during  the 
heavy  rains : now  in  August  they  overlap  each  other.  The 
probability  arises  from  all  continued  rains  within  the  tropics 
coming  in  the  opposite  direction  from  the  prevailing  wind  of 
the  year.  Partial  rains  are  usually  from  the  south-east. 

“ The  direction  of  the  prevailing  wind  of  this  region  is  well 
marked  on  the  islands  in  Lake  Paugweolo:  the  trunks  are 
bent  away  from  the  south-east,  and  the  branches  on  that  side 
are  stunted  or  killed ; while  those  on  the  north-west  run  out 
straight  and  make  the  trees  appear  lopsided.  The  same  bend 
away  from  the  south-east  is  seen  on  all  exposed  situations,  as 


IJYINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  D EAT II.  395 


in  tlic  trees  covering  the  brow  of  a hill.  At  Kizinga,* 
which  is  higher  than  the  Lake,  the  trees  are  covered  with 
lichens,  chiefly  on  the  south-east  sides,  and  on  the  upper  sur- 
faces of  branches,  running  away  horizontally  to  or  from  the 
north-west.  Plants  and  trees,  which  elsewhere  in  Africa  grow 
only  on  the  banks  of  streams  and  other  damp  localities,  arc 
seen  flourishing  all  over  the  country : the  very  rocks  are  cov- 
ered with  lichens,  and  their  crevices  with  ferns. 

“ But  that  which  demonstrates  the  humidity  of  the  climate 
most  strikingly  is  the  number  of  earthern  sponges  or  oozes 
met  with.  In  going  to  Bangweolo  from  Kizinga,  I crossed 
twenty-nine  of  these  reservoirs  in  thirty  miles  of  latitude,  on 
a south-east  course:  this  may  give  about  one  sponge  for  every 
two  miles.  The  word  ‘Bog’  conveys  much  of  the  idea  of 
these  earthen  sponges;  but  it  is  inseparably  connected  in  our 
minds  with  peat,  and  these  contain  not  a particle  of  peat; 
they  consist  of  black,  porous  earth,  covered  with  a hard,  wiry 
grass,  and  a few  other  damp-loving  plants.  In  many  places 
the  sponges  hold  large  quantities  of  the  oxide  of  iron,  from 
the  big  patches  of  brown  haematite  that  crop  out  every- 
where, and  streams  of  this  oxide,  as  thick  as  treacle,  are  seen 
moving  slowly  along  in  the  sponge-like  small  red  glaciers. 
When  one  treads  on  the  black  earth  of  the  sponge,  though  lit- 
tle or  no  water  appears  on  the  surface,  it  is  frequently  squirted 
up  the  limbs,  and  gives  the  idea  of  a sponge.  In  the  paths 
that  cross  them,  the  earth  readily  becomes  soft  mud,  but  sinks 
rapidly  to  the  bottom  again,  as  if  of  great  specific  gravity : 
the  water  in  them  is  always  circulating  and  oozing.  The 
places  where  the  sponges  are  met  with  arc  slightly  depressed 
valleys  without  trees  or  bushes,  in  a forest  country  where  the 
grass  being  only  a foot  or  fifteen  inches  high,  and  thickly 
plan  ted,  often  looks  like  a beautiful  glade  in  a gentleman’s  park 
in  England.  They  are  from  a quarter  of  a mile  to  a mile  broad, 
and  from  two  to  ten  or  more  miles  long.  The  water  of  the 
heavy  rains  soaks  into  the  level  forestlands:  one  never  sees 
runnels  leading  it  off,  unless  occasionally  a footpath  is  turned 
to  that  use.  The  water,  descending  about  eight  feet,  comes  to 
a stratum  of  yellow  sand,  beneath  which  there  is  another 
stratum  of  fine  white  sand,  which  at  its  bottom  cakes,  so  as  to 
hold  the  water  from  sinking  farther. 

‘‘  It  is  exactly  the  same  as  wc  found  in  the  Kalahari  Desert, 
in  digging  sucking-places  for  water  for  our  oxen.  The  water, 


The  headquarters  of  the  Arabs. 


390  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


both  here  and  there,  is  guided  by  the  fine  sand  stratum  into  the 
nearest  valley,  and  here  it  oozes  forth  on  all  sides  through  the 
thick  mantle  of  black  porous  earth,  which  forms  the  sponge. 
There,  in  the  desert,  it  appears  to  damp  the  surface  sands  in 
certain  valleys,  and  the  Bushmen,  by  a peculiar  process,  suck 
out  a supply.  When  we  had  dug  down  to  the  sand  caked 
there  years  ago,  the  people  begged  us  not  to  dig  further,  as  the 
water  would  all  run  away ; and  we  desisted,  because  we  saw 
that  the  fluid  poured  in  from  the  fine  sand  all  round  tbe  well, 
but  none  came  from  the  bottom  or  cake.  Two  stupid  English- 
men afterwards  broke  through  the  cake  in  spite  of  the  en- 
treaties of  the  natives,  and  the  well  and  the  whole  valley  dried 
up  hopelessly.  Hero  the  water,  oozing  forth  from  the  surface 
of  the  sponge  mantle,  collects  in  the  centre  of  the  slightly  de- 
pressed valley  which  it  occupies,  and  near  the  head  of  the  de- 
pression forms  a sluggish  stream  ; but  farther  down,  as  it  meets 
with  more  slope,  it  works  out  for  itself  a deeper  channel,  with 
perpendicular  banks,  with,  say,  a hundred  or  more  yards  of 
sponge  on  each  side,  constantly  oozing  forth  fresh  supplies  to 
augment  its  size.  When  it  reaches  rocky  ground  it  is  a peren- 
nial burn,  with  many  aquatic  plants  growing  in  its  bottom. 
One  peculiarity  would  strike  anyone : the  water  never  becomes 
discolored  or  muddy.  I have  seen  only  one  stream  muddied  in 
flood,  the  Clioma,  flowing  through  an  alluvial  plain  in  Lopere. 
Another  peculiarity  is  very  remarkable  ; it  is,  that  after  the 
rains  have  entirely  ceased,  these  burns  have  their  largest  flow, 
and  cause  inundations.  It  looks  as  if  towards  the  end  of  the 
rainy  season  the  sponges  were  lifted  up  by  the  water  off  their 
beds,  and  the  pores  and  holes,  being  enlarged,  are  all  employed 
to  give  off  fluid.  The  waters  of  inundation  run  away.  When 
the  sponges  are  lifted  up  by  superabundance  of  water,  all  the 
pores  therein  are  opened:  as  the  earthen  mantle  subsides  again, 
the  pores  act  like  natural  valves,  and  arc  partially  closed,  and 
by  the  weight  of  earth  above  them,  the  water  is  thus  prevented 
from  running  away  altogether ; time  also  being  required  to 
wet  all  the  sand  through  which  the  rains  soak,  the  great  supply 
may  only  And  its  way  to  the  sponge  a month  or  so  after  the 
great  rains  have  fallen. 

“ I travelled  in  Lunda,  when  the  sponges  were  all  super- 
saturated. The  grassy  sward  was  so  lilted  up  that  it  was  sep- 
arated into  patches  or  tufts,  and  if  the  foot  missed  the  row  of 
tufts  of  this  wiry  grass  which  formed  the  native  path,  down 
one  plumped  up  to  the  thigh  in  slush.  At  that  time  we  could 
cross  the  sponge  only  by  the  native  paths,  and  the  central  burn 


LI  V1NG STONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  397 


only  where  they  had  placed  bridges  : elsewhere  they  were  im- 
passable, as  they  poured  off  the  waters  of  inundation  : our  oxen 
were  generally  bogged — all  four  legs  went  down  up  to  the  body 
at  once.  When  they  saw  the  clear  sandy  bottom  of  the  cen- 
tral burn  they  readily  went  in,  but  usually  plunged  right  over 
head,  leaving  their  tail  up  in  the  air  to  show  the  nervous  shock 
they  had  sustained. 

“These  sponges  are  a serious  matter  in  travelling.  I 
crossed  the  twenty-nine  already  mentioned  at  the  end  of  the 
fourth  month  of  the  dry  season,  and  the  central  burns  seemed 
then  to  have  suffered  no  diminution:  they  were  then  from  calf 
to  waist  deep,  and  required  from  fifteen  to  forty  minutes  in 
crossing ; they  had  many  deep  holes  in  the  paths,  and  when 
one  plumps  therein  every  muscle  in  the  frame  receives  a pain- 
ful jerk.  When  past  the  stream,  and  apparently  on  partially 
dry  ground,  one  may  jog  in  a foot  or  more,  and  receive  a 
squirt  of  black  mud  up  the  thighs : it  is  only  when  you  reach 
the  trees  and  are  off  the  sour  land  that  you  feel  secure  from 
mud  and  leeches.  As  one  has  to  strip  the  lower  part  of  the 
person  in  order  to  ford  them,  I found  that  often  four  were  as 
many  as  we  could  cross  in  a day.  Looking  up  these  sponges  a 
bird’s-eye  view  would  closely  resemble  the  lichen-like  vegeta- 
tion of  frost  on  window  panes;  or  that  vegetation  in  Canada- 
balsam  which  mad  philosophical  instrument-makers  will  put 
between  the  lenses  of  the  object-glasses  of  our  telescopes.  The 
flat,  or  nearly  flat,  tops  of  the  subtending  and  transverse  ridges 
of  this  central  country  gives  rise  to  a great  many : I crossed 
twenty-nine,  a few  of  the  feeders  of  Bangweolo,  in  thirty  miles 
of  latitude  in  one  direction.  Burns  are  literally  innumerable  : 
rising  on  the  ridges,  or  as  I formerly  termed  them  mounds, 
they  are  undoubtedly  the  primary  or  ultimate  sources  of  the 
Zambezi,  Congo,  and  Nile:  by  their  union  are  formed  streams 
of  from  thirty  to  eighty  or  100  yards  broad,  and  always  deep 
enough  to  require  either  canoes  or  bridges.  These  I propose 
to  call  the  secondary  sources,  and  as  in  the  case  of  the  Nile 
they  are  drawn  off  by  three  lines  of  drainage,  they  become  the 
head  waters  (the  caput  Nili)  of  the  river  of  Egypt.” 

As  the  reference  to  his  theory  that  the  Nile  sources  are  to 
be  looked  for  in  the  “sponges”  of  the  region  now  being  trav- 
ersed, is  so  slight  in  the  above  paragraph,  it  will  be  well,  per- 
haps, to  transfer  to  this  place  some  further  observations  of  his 
on  the  same  topic,  though  in  point  of  time  they  belong  to  a 
much  later  period  of  his  journals — to  the  period,  namely,  when 
he  was  lying  sick  in  the  Manyuema  country.  “ The  watershed 


398  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


is  between  700  and  800  miles  Ion"  from  west  to  east,  or  fay 
from  22°  or  23°  to  34°  or  35°  east  longitude.  Parts  of  it  are 
enormous  sponges;  in  other  parts  innumerable  rills  unite  into 
rivulets,  which  again  form  rivers — Lufira,  for  instance,  has  nine 
rivulets,  and  Leknlwe  other  nine.  The  convex  surface  of  the 
rose  of  a garden  watering-can  is  a tolerably  apt  similitude,  as 
the  rills  do  not  spring  off  the  face  of  it,  and  it  is  700  miles 
across  the  circle ; but  in  the  numbers  of  rills  coming  out  at 
different  heights  on  the  slope,  there  is  a faint  resemblance,  and 
I can  at  present  think  of  no  other  example. 

“ I am  a little  thankful  to  old  Nile  for  so  hiding  his  head 
that  all  ‘ theoretical  discoverers ’ are  left  out  in  the  cold. 
"With  all  real  explorers  I have. a hearty  sympathy,  and  I have 
some  regret  at  being  obliged,  in  a manner  compelled,  to  speak 
somewhat  disparagingly  of  the  opinions  formed  by  my  prede- 
cessors. The  work  of  Speke  and  Giant  is  part  of  the  history 
of  this  region,  and  siuce  the  discovery  of  the  sources  of  the 
Nile  was  asserted  so  positively,  it  seems  necessary  to  explain, 
not  offensively,  1 hope,  wherein  their  mistake  lay,  in  making  a 
somewhat  similar  claim.  My  opinions  may  }Tet  be  shown  to 
be  mistaken  too,  but  at  present  I cannot  conceive  how.  When 
Speke  discovered  Victoria  Nyanza  in  1858,  he  at  once  con- 
cluded that  therein  lay  the  sources  of  the  Nile.  His  work  after 
that  was  simply  following  a foregone  conclusion,  and  as  soon  as 
he  and  Grant  looked  towards  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  they  turned 
their  backs  on  the  Nile  fountains  ; so  every  step  of  their  splen- 
did achievement  of  following  the  river  down  took  them  farther 
and  farther  away  from  the  caput  Nili.  When  it  was  perceived 
that  the  little  river  that  leaves  the  Nyanza,  though  they  called 
it  the  White  Nile,  would  not  account  for  that  great  river,  they 
might  have  gone  west  and  found  headwaters  (as  the  Lualaba) 
to  which  it  can  bear  no  comparison.  Taking  their  White  Nile 
at  80  or  90  yards,  or  say  100  yards  broad,  the  Lualaba,  far 
south  of  the  latitude  of  its  point  of  departure,  shows  an  average 
breadth  of  from  4,000  to  0,000  yards,  and  always  deep.” 

At  last  a cruel  outrage  inflicted  by  one  of  the  Arabs  on  the 
natives  of  Kizinga  so  exasperated  the  latter,  that  they  declared 
war,  and,  though  badly  defeated,  soon  compelled  the  slave- 
traders  to  evacuate  the  country.  With  a party  of  these,  led  by 
Mohamad  Bagharib,  Livingstone  started  for  Ujiji  on  December 
lltli.  The  march  to  the  nearest  point  on  Lake  Tanganyika 
occupied  two  months,  but  was  entirely  uneventful,  except  that 
just  before  reaching  the  lake,  Livingstone  had  a severe  attack 
of  pneumonia,  accompanied  by  spitting  of  blood,  and  distress- 


LI VING STONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  390 


ing  weakness.  lie  had  to  be  carried  for  sixteen  days,  during 
part  of  which  time  ho  was  insensible,  and  lost  count  of  the 
days  of  the  week  and  mouth. 

On  the  14th  of  March,  1SG9,  he  reached  Ujiji.  It  was  his 
first  visit,  but  he  had  arranged  that  supplies  should  be  for- 
warded thither  by  caravans  bound  inland  from  Zanzibar,  and 
he  expected  to  find  there  everything  of  which  he  stood  in  need. 
Most  unfortunately,  however,  his  goods  had  been  entrusted  to 
an  Arab  scoundrel  named  Musa,  who  had  made  way  with  them 
in  all  directions.  Medicines,  wine,  and  cheese  had  been  left 
at  Unyanyembc,  the  road  to  which  was  blocked  up  by  aMazitu 
or  Watuta  war,  and  even  of  the  barter-goods,  cloth,  beads,  etc., 
nearly  all  had  been  stolen.  The  disappointment  to  a man 
shattered  in  health  must  have  been  very  keen  ; but  great  bene- 
fit was  derived  from  the  tea  and  coffee,  and  still  more  from 
flannel  next  the  skin,  and  rest.  It  is  characteristic  of  Living- 
stone that  as  soon  as  he  was  able  to  get  about  easily  he  became 
anxious  to  resume  his  explorations  at  once.  The  Manyucma 
country,  a region  lying  northwest  of  Lake  Tanganyika  had  just 
been  discovered,  and  as  reports  of  the  vast  quantities  of  ivory 
to  be  procured  there  was  directing  to  it  the  attention  of  the 
Arab  traders,  he  resolved  to  join  the  first  party  and  explore  the 
unknown  region.  He  was  the  more  anxious  to  do  this  because 
he  learned  that  the  western  border  of  the  Manyuema 
country  touched  the  Lualaba,  a great  river  flowing  north,  of 
which  he  had  already  heard  at  Casembe’s,  and  the  connection 
of  which  with  the  Luapula  and  Chambeze  lie  had  already  made 
out.  While  waiting  for  the  expedition  to  organize  and  the  in- 
tervening country  to  become  passable,  he  devoted  his  time  to 
studying  Lake  Tanganyika, and  discovered  a steady  enrrentfrom 
south  to  north,  which  convinced  him  that  it  must  have  some 
outlet.  So  certain  was  he  of  this,  that  he  almost  wishes  to  call 
Tanganyika  a river , and  the  discovery  that  the  Rusisi  flows 
into  and  not  out  of  the  lake  did  not  shake  his  conviction  in  the 
slightest.  He  thought  it  possible,  indeed,  that  the  outlet  is  to 
the  west,  instead  of  to  the.  north  and  was  led  by  certain  facts 
learned  during  his  journey  to  Manyuema  to  conjecture  that 
it  is  at  first  underground.* 

* News  was  received  just  before  going  to  press,  that  Lieutenant  Cameron 
has  discovered  the  outlet.  It  is  called  the  Lukuga  River  and  was  r ctually 
crossed  by  Livingstone  during  his  march  to  Manyuema,  though  as  ho  crossed 
it  at  night,  and  as  the  current  is  very  sluggish  (about  three  miles  an  hour), 
he  may  be  excused  for  not  seeing  that  it  flowed  away  from  the  lake. 
It  leaves  the  lake  at  a point  about  five  miles  south  of  the  islands  discovered 
by  Speke.  Lieutenant  Cameron  followed  its  channel  several  miles,  but 


400  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


The  journey  to  Manyuema  commenced  on  the  12th  of  July 
(1869).  After  crossing  the  Lake,  the  line  of  march  was 
directly  northwest  until  Bambarre,  the  district  of  a friendly 
chief  named  Moenekuss,  was  reached,  on  the  21st  of  Septem- 
ber. Numerous  rivers  and  minor  streams  were  crossed  on  the 
way,  some  flowing  into  Tanganyika,  and  others  westward  to 
the  Lnalaba ; the  district  near  the  Lake  is  mountainous  and 
covered  with  dense  forests.  The  Manyuema  country  is  de- 
scribed by  Livingstone  as  surpassingly  beautiful.  “ Palms 
crown  the  highest  heights  of  the  mountains,  and  their  grace- 
fully bended  fronds  wave  beautifully  in  the  wind ; and  the 
forests,  usually  about  five  miles  broad,  between  groups  of  vil- 
lages, are  indescribable.  Climbers  of  cable  size  in  great  num- 
bers are  hung  among  the  gigantic  trees,  many  unknown  wild 
fruits  abound,  some  the  size  of  a child’s  head,  and  strange 
birds  and  monkeys  are  everywhere.  The  soil  is  excessively 
rich,  and  the  people,  although  isolated  by  old  fends  that  are 
never  settled,  cultivate  largely.  They  have  selected  a kind  of 
maize  that  bends  its  fruit-stalk  round  into  a hook,  and  hedges 
some  eighteen  feet  high  are  made  by  inserting  poles,  which 
sprout  like  Robinson  Crusoe’s  hedge,  and  never  decay.  Lines 
of  climbing  plants  are  tied  so  as  to  go  along  from  pole  to  pole, 
and  the  maize-cobs  are  suspended  to  these  by  their  own  hooked 
fruit-stalk.  As  the  corn-cob  is  forming,  the  hook  is  turned 
round,  so  that  the  fruit-leaves  of  it  hang  down  and  form  a 
thatch  for  the  grain  beneath  or  inside  it.  This  upright  granary 
forms  a solid -looking  wall  round  the  villages,  and  the  people 
are  not  stingy,  but  take  down  the  maize  and  hand  it  to  the 
men  freely.”  The  streets  of  the  villages  often  run  east  and 
west,  in  order  that  the  bright  blazing  sun  may  lick  up  the 
moisture  quickly  from  off  them.  The  dwelling-houses  are 
generally  in  line,  with  public  meeting-houses  at  each  end, 
opposite  the  middle  of  the  street ; the  roofs  are  low,  but  well 
thatched  with  a leaf  resembling  the  banana-leaf,  from  which 
the  water  runs  quickly  off.  The  walls  are  of  wTell-beaten 
clay,  and  screened  from  the  weather.  Inside,  the  dwellings 
are  clean  and  comfortable,  and  before  the  Arabs  came  bugs 
were  unknown.  In  some  cases,  where  the  southeast  rains  are 
abundant,  the  Manyuema  place  the  back  of  the  houses  to  this 
quarter,  and  prolong  the  low  roof  down,  so  that  the  rain  does 
not  reach  the  walls.  These  clay  walls  stand  for  ages,  and 
men  often  return  to  the  villages  they  left  in  infancy  and  build 


further  navigation  was  stopped  by  a dense  growth  of  rushes.  He  believes 
that  it  flows  west  into  the  Lualaba. 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  401 


again  the  portions  that  many  rains  have  washed  away.  Eacli 
housewife  has  from  25  to  30  earthern  pots  slung  to  the  ceiling 
by  very  neat  cord-swinging  tassels  ; and  often  as  many  neatly- 
made  baskets  hung  up  in  the  same  fashion,  and  much  firewood. 

The  population  is  very  large,  and  the  people  arc  fine-look- 
ing ; Livingstone  thinks  that  a crowd  of  Londoners,  divested 
of  their  clothing  and  set  opposite  a crowd  of  Manyuema, 
would  make  a sorry  spectacle.  The  women  are  very  naked. 
They  plait  the  hair  into  the  form  of  a basket  behind  ; it  is  first 
rolled  into  a very  long  coil,  then  wound  around  something 
till  it  is  about  8 or  10  inches  long,  projecting  from  the  back  of 
the  head.  The  Manyuema,  with  their  great  numbers,  their 
favored  country,  and  their  industrious  habits,  would  seem  to 
possess  all  the  elements  of  a strong  and  progressive  nation ; 
but  they  are  among  the  most  barbarous  tribes  of  Central 
Africa.  They  are  cannibals  of  the  most  degraded  sort,  for 
they  eat  the  bodies  of  those  who  die  of  disease  ; they  are  sus- 
picious, vindictive,  and  cruel ; and  they  are  so  quarrelsome 
and  treacherous  that  inhabitants  of  one  village  or  district 
seldom  dare  venture  beyond  the  confines  of  the  next.  Even 
Livingstone’s  large  charity,  quickened  as  it  was  by  the  out- 
rages to  which  he  saw  them  subjected  at  the  hands  of  the 
Arabs,  could  find  but  little  that  was  good  in  them  except  their 
physique.  “ The  Manyuema,”  he  savs,  after  a long  stay  among 
them  had  made ‘him  familiar  with  tfieir  habits,  “are  the  most 
bloody,  callous  savages  I know ; one  puts  a scarlet  feather  from 
a parrot’s  tail  on  the  ground,  and  challenges  those  near  to  stick 
it  in  the  hair : he  who  does  so  must  kill  a man  or  woman ! 
Another  custom  is  that  none  dare  wear  the  skin  of  the  musk 
cat,  Ngawa,  unless  he  has  murdered  somebody:  guns  alone  pre- 
vent them  from  killing  us  all,  and  for  no  reason  either.” 

Having  rested  at  Bambarre  until  November  1st,  Livingstone 
resolved  to  go  west  to  the  Lualaba,  and  buy  a canoe  for  its 
exploration.  Travelling  was  very  difficult,  as  it  was  now  the 
rainy  season;  and  the  attitude  of  the  natives  became  so  threat- 
ening that  after  penetrating  to  within  10  miles  of  the  Lualaba 
he  was  compelled  to  turn  back  and  return  to  Bambarre. 
Towards  the  end  of  December  he  set  out  with  Mohamad’s 
ivory  party,  hoping  to  reach  another  part  of  the  Lualaba  and 
thus  carry  out  his  original  scheme.  The  route  pursued  was 
due  north,  and  was  followed  for  about  a month;  but  rheuma- 
tism and  weakness,  accompanied  by  a choleraic  purging,  drove 
him  back,  and  on  the  7th  of  February,  1870,  he  went  into  win- 
ter quarters  at  Mamohela,  a town  some  distance  north  of  Bam- 
26 


402  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


barre,  which  the  Arabs  had  made  their  chief  depot.  In  June 
a third  attempt  was  made  to  reach  the  Lualaba,  which  proved 
even  more  disastrous  than  either  of  the  preceding  ones.  In 
the  first  place  most  of  his  men  deserted  him,  so  that  he  was 
obliged  to  start  witli  only  three  attendants.  The  country 
proved  exceedingly  difficult  from  forest  and  water ; trees 
fallen  across  the  path  formed  a breast-high  wall  which  had  to 
be  climbed  over;  flooded  rivers,  breast  and  neck  deep,  had  to 
be  crossed ; the  mud  was  awful ; and  nothing  but  villages 
eight  or  ten  miles  apart,  the  people  of  which  were  far  from 
friendly.  For  the  first  time  in  his  life  Livingstone’s  feet  failed 
him  ; instead  of  healing  quietly,  as  heretofore,  when  torn  by 
hard  travel,  irritable  eating-ulcers  fastened  on  both  feet,  and 
he  was  barely  able  to  limp  back  to  Mamohela  on  the  6th  of 
July.  The  ulcers  now  laid  him  up.  If  the  foot  were  put  to 
the  ground  a discharge  of  bloody  ichor  followed,  and  the  same 
discharge  happened  every  night  with  considerable  pain  that 
prevented  sleep.  They  eat  through  everything — muscle,  ten- 
don, and  bone  ; and  medicines  have  very  little  effect  upon 
them  Their  periodicity  would  seem  to  indicate  that  they  are 
allied  to  fever.  For  eighty  days  Livingstone  never  came  out 
of  his  hut ; and  even  then  the  ulcers  had  only  begun  to  heal. 

Ilis  journal  shows  that  during  the  period  of  his  confinement 
Livingstone  was  gatlierimg  information  from  both  natives  and 
Arabs  as  to  the  great  lake  and  river  system  which  he  had  dis- 
covered ; speculating  with  apparent  seriousness  upon  the 
possibility  of  Moses  having  penetrated  to  this  region  and 
founded  the  lost  city  of  Meroe ; and  observing  the  habits  of 
the  people.  He  learned  that  another  large  lake,  called  Chi- 
bnngo,  lay  about  twelve  days  distant  west  from  the  Lualaba ; 
and  rhat  a large  river,  which  he  called  Lualaba  West,  flows 
out  of  it  in  a northeasterly  direction  and  empties  into  the 
main  stream  between  2°  and  3°  S.  lat.  To  the  central  Lualaba, 
or  main  stream,  he  gave  the  name  of  “ Webb’s  River  ; ” to  the 
western,  “Young’s  River;”  and  to  Chibungo,  “Lake  Lin- 
coln.” The  fountain  of  the  Liambai,  or  Upper  Zambesi,  he 
proposes  to  call  “ Palmerston  Fountain,”  and  the  fountain  of 
the  Lufira  he  called  after  Sir  Bartle  Frere.  In  a despatch  to 
the  British  Foreign  Office,  written  a few  weeks  before  his 
death,  lie  explains  fully  the  reasons  which  influenced  him  in 
giving  these  names  to  the  principal  rivers  and  lakes  which  he 
had  discovered : “ I have  tried,”  he  says,  “ to  honor  the  name 
of  the  good  Lord  Palmerston,  in  fond  remembrance  of  his 
long  and  unwearied  labor  for  the  abolition  of  the  Slave  Trade ; 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  403 


nnd  I venture  to  place  the  name  of  the  good  and  noble 
Lincoln  on  the  Lake,  in  gratitude  to  him  who  gave  freedom  to 
4,000,000  of  slaves.  These  two  great  men  are  no  longer 
among  us  ; but  it  pleases  me,  here  in  the  wilds,  to  place,  as  it 
were,  my  poor  little  garland  of  love  on  their  tombs.  Sir  Bar- 
tie  Frere  having  accomplished  the  grand  work  of  abolishing 
slavery  in  Scindiah,  Upper  India,  deserves  the  gratitude  of 
every  lover  of  human  kind. 

“Private  friendship  guided  me  in  the  selection  of  other 
names  where  distinctive  epithets  were  urgently  needed. 
‘ Paraffin  ’ Young,  one  of  my  teachers  in  chemistry,  raised 
himself  to  be  a merchant  prince  by  his  science  and  art,  and 
has  shed  pure  white  light  in  many  lowly  cottages,  and  in  some 
rich  palaces.  Leaving  him  and  chemistry,  I wTent  away  to  try 
and  bless  others.  I,  too,  have  shed  light  of  another  kind,  and 
am  fain  to  believe  that  I have  performed  a small  part  in  the 
grand  revolution  which  our  Maker  has  been  for  ages  carrying 
on,  by  multitudes  of  conscious,  and  many  unconscious,  agents, 
all  over  the  world.  Young’s  friendship  never  faltered. 

“ Os  well  and  Webb  were  fellow-travellers,  and  mighty 
hunters.  Too  much  engrossed  myself  with  mission-work  to 
hunt,  except  for  the  children’s  larder,  when  going  to  visit 
distant  tribes,  I relished  the  sight  of  fair  stand-up  fights  by 
my  friends  with  the  large  denizens  of  the  forest,  and  admired 
the  true  Nimrod  class  for  their  great  courage,  truthfulness,  and 
honor.” 

Under  date  of  August  24th  he  gives  an  interesting  account 
of  the  soko,  which  he  believed  to  be  identical  with  the  gorilla, 
but  which  Mr.  Waller  is  probably  right  in  regarding  as  an 
entirely  new  species  of  chimpanzee. 

“ Four  gorillas  or  sokos  were  killed  yesterday : an  extensive 
grass-burning  forced  them  out  of  their  usual  haunt, and  coming 
on  the  plain  they  were  speared.  They  often  go  erect,  but 
place  the  hand  on  the  head  as  if  to  steady  the  body.  When 
seen  thus,  the  soko  is  an  ungainly  beast.  The  most  sentimen- 
tal 3'oung  lady  would  not  call  him  a 4 dear,’  but  a bandy- 
legged, pot-bellied,  low-looking  villain,  without  a particle  of 
the  gentleman  in  him.  Other  animals,  especially  the  antel- 
opes, are  graceful,  and  it  is  pleasant  to  see  them  either  at  rest 
or  in  motion:  the  natives  are  also  well  made, lithe  and  comely 
to  behold  ; but  the  soko,  if  large,  would  do  well  to  stand  for  a 
picture  of  the  Devil.  He  takes  away  my  appetite  by  the  dis- 
gusting bestiality  of  appearance,  llis  light-yellow  face  shows 
off  his  ugly  whiskers,  and  faint  apology  for  a beard  ; the  fore- 


404  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


head  villainously  low,  with  high  ears,  is  well  in  the  back- 
ground of  the  great  dog-mouth ; the  teeth  are  slightly  human, 
but  the  canines  show  the  beast  by  their  large  development. 
The  hands,  or  rather  the  fingers,  are  like  those  of  the  natives. 
The  flesh  of  the  feet  is  yellow,  and  the  eagerness  with  which 
the  Manyuema  devour  it  leaves  the  impression  that  eating  sokos 
was  the  first  stage  by  which  they  arrived  at  being  cannibals ; 
they  say  that  the  flesh  is  delicious.  The  soko  is  represented 
by  some  to  be  extremely  knowing,  successfully  stalking  men 
and  women  while  at  their  work,  kidnapping  children  and  run- 
ning up  trees  with  them — he  seems,  to  be  amused  by  the  sight 
of  the  young  native  in  his  arms,  but  comes  down  when  tempted 
by  a bunch  of  bananas,  and  as  he  lifts  that,  drops  the  child : 
the  young  soko  in  such  a case  would  cling  closely  to  the  arm- 
pit  of  the  elder.  One  man  was  cutting  out  honey  from  a tree, 
and  raked,  when  a soko  suddenly  appeared  and  caught  him, 
then  let  him  go:  another  man  was  hunting,  and  missed  in  his 
attempt  to  stab  a soko  ; it  seized  the  spear  and  broke  it ; then 
grappled  with  the  man,  who  called  to  his  companions,  ‘ Soko 
has  caught  me ; 7 the  soko  bit  off  the  ends  of  his  fingers 
and  escaped  unharmed.  Both  men  are  now  alive  at  Bam- 
barre 

“ The  soko  is  so  cunning  and  has  such  sharp  eyes  that  no  one 
can  smlk  him  in  front  without  being  seen,  hence,  when  shot, 
it  is  always  in  the  back ; when  surrounded  by  men  and  nets, 
he  is  generally  speared  in  the  back  too ; otherwise  he  is  not  a 
very  formidable  beast ; lie  is  nothing  as  compared  in  power  of 
damaging  his  assailant,  to  a leopard  or  lion,  but  is  more  like  a 
man  unarmed,  for  it  does  not  occur  to  him  to  use  his  canine  teeth, 
which  are  long  and  formidable.  Numbers  of  them  come  down 
in  the  forest  within  a hundred  yards  of  our  camp,  and  would 
be  unknown  but  for  giving  tongue  like  fox-hounds;  this  is 
their  nearest  approach  to  speech.  A man  hoeing  was  stalked 
by  a soko,  and  seized  ; he  roared  out,  but  the  soko  giggled  and 
grinned,  and  left  him  as  if  he  had  done  it  in  play.  A child 
caught  up  by  a soko  is  often  abused  by  being  pinched  and 
scratched,  and  let  fall. 

“ The  soko  kills  the  leopard  occasionally,  by  seizing  both 
paws  and  biting  them  so  as  to  disable  them  ; he  then  goes  up 
a tree,  groans  over  his  wounds,  and  some  time  recovers,  while 
the  leopard  dies : at  other  times,  both  soko  and  leopard  die. 
The  lion  kills  him  at  once,  and  sometimes  tears  his  limbs  off, 
but  does  not  eat  him.  The  soko  eats  no  flesh — small  bananas  are 
his  daiutics,  but  not  maize.  His  food  consists  of  wild  fruits 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  405 


which  abound  : one,  Stafend,  or  Manyuema  Marawa,  is  like 
large  sweet  sop  but  indifferent  in  taste  and  flesh.  The  soko 
brings  forth  at  times  twins.  A very  large  soko  was  seen  by 
Mohamad’s  hunters  sitting  picking  his  nails;  they  tried  to  stalk 
him,  but  he  vanished.  Some  Manyuema  think  that  their  buried 
dead  rise  as  sokos,  and  one  was  killed  with  holes  in  his  ears,  as 
if  lie  had  been  a man.  lie  is  very  strong  and  fears  guns  but 
not  spears  : lie  never  catches  women. 

“ Sokos  collect  together  and  make  a drumming  noise,  some 
say  with  hollow  trees,  then  burst  forth  into  loud  yells  which 
arc  well  imitated  by  the  natives’  embryotic  music.  If  a man 
has  no  spear  the  soko  goes  away  satisfied,  but  if  wounded  he 
seizes  the  wrist,  lops  off  the  fingers,  and  spits  them  out,  slaps 
the  cheek  of  his  victim,  and  bites  without  breaking  the  skin: 
he  draws  out  a spear  (but  never  uses  it),  and  takes  some  leaves 
and  stuffs  them  into  his  wound  to  staunch  the  blood  ; he  docs  not 
wish  an  encounter  with  an  armed  man.  He  sees  women  do 
him  no  harm,  and  never  molests  them  ; a man  without  a spear 
is  nearly  safe  from  him.  They  beat  hollow  trees  as  drums 
with  hands,  and  then  scream  as  music  to  it ; when  men  hear 
them,  they  go  to  the  sokos;  but  sokos  never  go  to  men  with 
hostility.  Manyuema  say, 4 Soko  is  a man,  and  nothing  bad  in 
him.’ 

“They  live  in  communities  of  about  ten,  each  having  his 
own  female  ; an  intruder  from  another  camp  is  beaten  off  with 
their  fists  and  loud  yells.  If  one  tries  to  seize  the  female  of 
another,  he  is  caught  on  the  ground,  and  all  unite  in  boxing 
and  biting  the  offender.  A male  often  carries  a child,  espe- 
cially if  they  are  passing  from  one  patch  of  forest  to  another 
over  a grassy  space  ; he  then  gives  it  to  the  mother.” 

Later  on,  one  of  the  Arabs  caught  a young  female  soko 
whose  mother  had  been  killed,  and  gave  it  to  Livingstone,  who 
gives  the  following  amusing  account  of  it: — “ She  sits  eighteen 
inches  high,  has  fine  long  black  hair  all  over,  which  was  pretty 
so  long  as  it  was  kept  in  order  by  her  dam.  She  is  the  least 
mischievous  of  all  the  monkey  tribe  I have  seen,  and  seems  to 
know  that  in  me  she  has  a friend,  and  sits  quietly  on  the  mat 
beside  me.  In  walking,  the  first  thing  observed  is  that  she 
docs  not  tread  on  the  palms  of  her  hands,  but  on  the  baeks  of 
the  second  line  of  bones  of  the  hands  : in  doing  this  the  nails 
do  not  touch  the  ground,  nor  do  the  knuckles ; she  uses  the 
arms  thus  supported  crutch  fashion,  and  hitches  herself  along 
between  them ; occasionally  one  hand  is  put  down  before  the 
other,  and  alternates  with  the  feet,  or  she  walks  upright  and 


406  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 

holds  up  a hand  to  any  one  to  carry  her.  If  refused,  she  turns 
her  face  down,  and  makes  grimaces  of  the  most  bitter  human 
weeping,  wringing  her  hands,  and  sometimes  adding  a fourth 
hand  or  foot  to  make  the  appeal  more  touching.  Grass  or 
leaves  she  draws  around  her  to  make  a nest,  and  resents  anyone 
meddling  with  her  property.  She  is  a most  friendly  little 
beast,  and  came  up  to  me  at  once,  making  her  chirrup  of  wel- 
come, smelled  my  clothing,  and  held  out  her  hand  to  be  shaken. 
She  eats  everything,  covers  herself  with  a mat  to  sleep,  and 
makes  a nest  of  grass  or  leaves,  and  wipes  her  face  with  a leaf.” 
He  fails  to  mention  what  became  of  this  curious  pet. 

Another  entry,  under  date  of  25th  October,  shortly  after  he 
was  able  to  leave  his  hut,  is  interesting  as  indicating  the 
high  motives  which  actuated  Livingstone  in  his  toilsome  explo- 
ration, and  the  objects  he  hoped  to  accomplish  by  striking  west- 
ward from  Manyuema.  “ In  this  journey  I have  endeavored 
to  follow  with  unswerving  fidelity  the  line  of  duty.  My  course 
has  been  an  even  one,  turning  neither  to  the  right  hand  nor  to 
the  left,  though  my  route  has  been  tortuous  enough.  All  the 
hardship,  hunger,  and  toil  were  met  with  the  full  conviction 
that  I was  right.in  persevering  to  make  a complete  work  of  the 
exploration  of  the  sources  of  the  Nile.  Mine  has  been  a calm, 
hopeful  endeavor  to  do  the  work  that  has  been  given  me  to  do, 
whether  I succeed  or  whether  I fail.  The  prospect  of  death  in 
pursuing  what  I knew  to  be  right  did  not  make  me  veer  to  one 
side  or  the  other.  I had  a strong  presentiment  during  the  first 
three  years  that  I should  never  live  through  the  enterprise,  but 
it  weakened  as  I came  near  to  the  end  of  the  journey,  and  an 
eager  desire  to  discover  any  evidence  of  the  great  Moses  hav- 
ing visited  these  parts  bound  me,  spell- bound  me,  I may  say, 
for  if  I could  bring  to  light  anything  to  confirm  the  Sacred 
Oracles,  I should  not  grudge  one  whit  all  the  labor  expended. 
I have  to  go  down  the  Central  Lualaba  or  Webb’s  Lake  River, 
then  up  the  Western  or  Young’s  Lake  River  to  Katanga  head 
waters  and  then  retire.  I pray  that  it  may  be  to  my  native 
home.”  Could  this  plan  have  been  carried  out,  he  would  have 
solved  the  problem  as  to  whether  the  Lualaba  flows  north  to 
the  Nile,  or  whether  (as  he  now  and  then  suspected  on  account 
of  its  great  westing),  he  was  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
Congo.  But  his  own  physical  weakness,  and  his  want  of  men 
and  stores,  made  it  impossible  to  undertake  it  at  once  ; and  as 
he  waited  month  after  month  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  the  lat- 
ter, the  growing  hostilities  between  the  natives  and  the  Arabs 
finally  convinced  him  of  its  hopelessness.  The  arrival  of  ten 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  407 


men  from  Ujiji  with  stores  early  in  1871,  enabled  him  to  pen- 
etrate to  the  Lualaba;  but  he  was  unable,  after  the  most 
strenuous  efforts,  to  procure  a boat  to  descend  the  river,  and  his 
men  utterly  refused  to  cross  over  into  the  country  beyond. 

While  staying  on  the  banks  of  the  Lualaba,  which  he  found 
to  be  a mighty  river,  at  least  3,000  yards  broad  and  always 
deep,  lie  witnessed  a scene  so  shocking  that  he  could  stand  tiie 
companionship  of  the  Arabs  no  longer,  and  resolved  to  return 
at  once  to  Ujiji.  Almost  from  the  day  the  Arab  hordes  en- 
tered the  country  petty7  outrages  on  either  side  had  kept  up  a 
chronic  state  of  hostility  between  them  and  the  natives;  and  as 
their  stay  was  protracted  these  outrages  became  gradually  more 
numerous  and  more  murderous.  At  the  time  when  the  scene 
referred  to  occurred,  Livingstone  was  staying  at  the  head- 
quarters of  Dugumbe,  who  had  a large  ivory-hunting  part/  with 
him.  Ilis  people  seemed  to  be  on  friendly  enough  terms  with 
the  natives;  but  on  the  14th  of  July  the  Arabs  in  camp  be- 
came very  much  incensed  on  learning  that  Kirnburu  and  sev- 
eral other  local  chiefs  had  mixed  the  blood  of  friendship  with 
a slave  named  Manilla.  The  result  shall  be  given  in  Living- 
stone’s own  words : 

“ 15 th  July,  1871. — The  reports  of  guns  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Lualaba  all  the  morning  tell  of  the  people  of  Dugumbe 
murdering  those  of  Kirnburu  and  others  who  mixed  blood  with 
Manilla.  ‘Manilla  is  a slave,  and  how  dares  he  to  mix  blood 
with  chiefs  who  ought  only  to  make  friends  with  free  men  like 
us?’ — This  is  their  complaint.  Kirnburu  gave  Manilla  three 
slaves,  and  he  sacked  ten  villages  in  token  of  friendship;  he 
proposed  to  give  Dugumbe  nine  slaves  in  the  same  operation, 
but  Duguinbe’s  people  destroy  his  villages,  and  shoot  and  make 
his  people  captives  to  punish  Manilla ; to  make  an  impression, 
in  fact,  in  the  country  that  they  alone  arc  to  be  dealt  with — 
‘ make  friends  with  us,  and  not  with  Manilla  or  anyone  else  ’ — 
such  is  what  they  insist  upon. 

u About  1500  people  came  to  market,*  though  many  villages 
of  those  that  usually  come  from  the  other  side  were  now  in 
flames,  and  every  now  and  then  a number  of  shots  were  fired 
on  the  fugitives. 

“ It  was  a hot,  sultry  day,  and  when  I went  into  the  market 


* Market  or  “ Chitoka”  is  one  of  the  peculiar  features  of  Manyueraa  life. 
It  is  held  at  a fixed  place  every  other  day,  and  is  attended  chiefly  by  women 
who  come  in  immense  numbers  from  all  the  surrounding  districts,  and  who  do 
all  the  bartering  and  trading.  It  was  chiefly  by  these  markets  that  the  Arabs 
were  supplied  with  food. 


408  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


I saw  Adie  and  Manilla,  and  three  of  the  men  who  had  lately 
come  with  Dugnmbe.  I was  surprised  to  see  these  three  with 
their  guns,  and  felt  inclined  to  reprove  them,  as  one  of  my  men 
did,  for  bringing  weapons  into  the  market,  but  I attributed  it 
to  their  ignorance,  and,  it  being  very  hot,  I was  walking  away 
to  go  out  of  the  market,  when  I saw  one  of  the  fellows  hag- 
gling about  a fowl,  and  seizing  hold  of  it.  Before  1 had  got 
thirty  yards  out,  the  discharge  of  two  guns  in  the  middle  of 
the  crowd  told  me  that  slaughter  had  begun : crowds  dashed 
off  from  the  place,  and  threw  down  their  wares  in  confusion, 
and  ran.  At  the  same  time  that  the  three  opened  fire  on  the 
mass  of  people  near  the  upper  end  of  the  market-place  volleys 
were  discharged  from  a party  down  near  the  creek  on  the 
panic-stricken  women,  who  dashed  at  the  canoes.  These,  some 
fifty  or  more,  were  jammed  in  the  creek,  and  the  men  forgot 
their  paddles  in  the  terror  that  seized  all.  The  canoes  were 
not  to  be  got  out,  for  the  creek  was  too  small  for  so  many ; 
men  and  women,  wounded  by  the  balls,  poured  into  them,  and 
leaped  and  scrambled  into  the  water,  shrieking.  A long  line 
of  heads  in  the  river  showed  that  great  numbers  struck  out  for 
an  island  a full  mile  off : in  going  towards  it  they  had  to  put 
the  left  shoulder  to  a current  of  about  two  miles  an  hour ; if 
they  had  struck  away  diagonally  to  the  opposite  bank,  the  cur- 
rent would  have  aided  them,  and,  though  nearly  three  miles 
off,  some  would  have  gained  land  ; as  it  was,  the  heads  above 
water  showed  the  long  line  of  those  that  would  inevitably 
perish. 

“ Shot  after  shot  continued  to  be  fired  on  the  helpless  and 
perishing.  Some  of  the  long  line  of  heads  disappeared 
quietly  ; whilst  other  poor  creatures  threw  their  arms  high,  as 
if  appealing  to  the  great  Father  above,  and  sank.  One  canoe 
took  in  as  many  as  it  could  hold,  and  all  paddled  with  hands 
and  arms:  three  canoes,  got  out  in  haste,  picked  up  sinking 
friends,  till  all  went  down  together,  and  disappeared.  One 
man  in  a long  canoe,  which  could  have  held  forty  or  fifty,  had 
clearly  lost  his  head  ; he  had  been  out  in  the  stream  before  the 
massacre  began,  and  now  paddled  up  the  river  nowhere,  and 
never  looked  to  the  drowning.  By-and-by  all  the  heads  disap- 
peared ; some  had  turned  down  stream  towards  the  bank,  and 
escaped.  Dugnmbe  put  people  into  one  of  the  deserted  vessels 
to  save  those  in  the  water,  and  saved  twenty-one,  but  one 
woman  refused  to  be  taken  on  board  from  thinking  that  she 
was  to  be  made  a slave  of;  she  preferred  the  chance  of  life  by 
swimming,  to  the  lot  of  a slave  : the  Bageuya  women  are  ex- 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  409 


pert  in  the  water,  as  they  are  accustomed  to  dive  for  oysters, 
and  those  who  went  down  stream  may  have  escaped,  but  the 
Arabs  themselves  estimated  the  loss  of  life  at  between  330  and 
4o0  souls.  The  shooting-party  near  the  canoes  were  so  reckless, 
they  killed  two  of  their  own  people ; and  a Banyamwezi  fol- 
lower, who  got  into  a deserted  canoe  to  plunder,  fell  into  the 
water,  went  down,  then  came  up  again,  and  down  to  rise  no 
more. 

“My  first  impulse  was  to  pistol  the  murderers,  but  Dugumbe 
protested  against  my  getting  into  a blood -feud,  and  I was 
thankful  afterwards  that  I took  his  advice.  Two  wretched 
Moslems  asserted  ‘ that  the  tiring  was  done  by  the  people  of 
the  English;’  I asked  one  of  them  why  he  lied  so,  and  he 
could  utter  no  excuse : no  other  falsehood  came  to  his  aid  as  he 
stood  abashed  before  me,  and  so  telling  him  not  to  tell  palpable 
falsehoods,  I left  him  gaping. 

“ After  the  terrible  affair  in  the  water,  the  party  of  Taga- 
moio,  who  was  the  chief  perpetrator,  continued  to  "fire  on  the 
people  there,  and  fire  their  villages.  As  I write  I hear  the 
loud  wails  on  the  left  bank  over  those  who  are  there  slain, 
ignorant  of  their  many  friends  now  in  the  depths  of  Lualaba. 
Oh,  let  Thy  Kingdom  come!  No  one  will  ever  know  the 
exact  loss  on  this  bright  sultry  summer  morning;  it  gave  me 
the  impression  of  being  in  Hell.  All  the  slaves  in  the  camp 
rushed  at  the  fugitives  on  land,  and  plundered  them:  women 
were  for  hours  collecting  and  carrying  loads  of  what  had  been 
thrown  down  in  terror. 

“ Some  escaped  to  me,  and  were  protected  ; Dugumbe  saved 
twenty-one,  and  of  his  own  accord  liberated  them ; they  were 
brought  to  me,  and  remained  over  night  near  my  house.  One 
woman  of  the  saved  had  a musket-ball  through  the  thigh,  an- 
other in  the  arm.  I sent  men  with  our  flag  to  save  some,  for 
without  a flag  they  might  have  been  victims,  for  Tagamoio’s 
people  were  shooting  right  and  left  like  fiends.  I counted 
twelve  villages  burning  this  morning.  I asked  the  question  of 
Dugumbe  and  others,  ‘Now,  for  what  is  all  this  murder?’ 
All  blamed  Manilla  as  its  cause,  and  in  one  sense  he  was  the 
cause  ; but  it  is  hardly  credible  that  they  repeat  it  is  in  order 
to  be  avenged  on  Manilla  for  making  friends  with  headmen,  he 
being  a slave.  I cannot  believe  it  fully.  The  wish  to  make 
an  impression  in  the  country  as  to  the  importance  and  great- 
ness of  the  new  comers  was  the  most  potent  motive ; but  it 
was  terrible  that  the  murdering  of  so  many  should  be  contem- 
plated at  all.  It  made  me  siclc  at  heart.  Who  could  accom- 


410  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


pany  the  people  of  Dugumbe  and  Tagamoio  to  Lomame  and 
be  free  from  blood-guiltiness  ? 

“ I proposed  to  Dugumbe  to  catch  the  murderers,  and  hang 
them  up  in  the  market-place,  as  our  protest  against  the  bloody 
deeds  before  the  Manyucma.  If,  as  lie  and  others  added,  the 
massacre  was  committed  by  Manilla’s  people,  he  would  have 
consented ; but  it  was  done  by  Tagamoio’s  people,  and  others 
of  this  party,  headed  by  Dugumbe.  This  slaughter  was  pecu- 
liarly atrocious,  inasmuch  as  we  have  always  heard  that  women 
coming  to  or  from  market  have  never  been  known  to  be  mo- 
lested : even  when  two  districts  are  engaged  in  actual  hostili- 
ties, 6 the  women,’  say  they,  ‘ pass  among  us  to  market 
unmolested,’  nor  has  one  ever  been  known  to  be  plundered  by_ 
the  men.  These  Nigger  Moslems  are  inferior  to  the  Manyucma 
in  justice  and  right.  The  people  under  Jlassani  began  the 
snperwi  eked  ness  of  capture  and  pillage  of  all  indiscriminately. 
Dugumbe  promised  to  send  over  men  to  order  Tagamoio’s 
men  to  cease  firing  and  burning  villages  ; they  remained  over 
among  the  ruins,  feasting  on  goats  and  fowls  all  night,  and 
next  day  (16th)  continued  their  infamous  work  till  twenty- 
seven  villages  were  destroyed.” 

“ 1 8th  July. — The  murderous  assault  on  the  market  people, 
felt  to  me  like  Gehenna,  without  the  fire  and  brimstone  ; but 
the  heat  was  oppressive,  and  the  firearms  pouring  their  iron 
bullets  in  the  fugitives,  was  not  an  inapt  representation  of 
burning  in  the  bottomless  pit.  The  terrible  scenes  of  man’s  in- 
humanity to  man  brought  on  a severe  headache,  which  might 
have  been  serious  had  it  not  been  relieved  by  a copious  dis- 
charge of  blood ; I was  laid  up  all  yesterday  afternoon  with 
the  depression  the  bloodshed  made, — it  filled  me  with  unspeak- 
able horror.” 

lie  began  preparations  at  once  for  the  return  journey,  and 
on  the  22d,  turned  his  back  on  the  mysterious  Lualaba  and  set 
out  for  Ujiji.  Much  hostility  was  manifested  by  the  natives  on 
the  way,  and  at  one  point  Livingstone  had  an  exceedingly  nar- 
row escape  in  an  ambush,  which  had  been  laid  for  him  under 
the  impression  that  he  was  Mohamad  Bogharib.  The  march 
too,  though  less  severe  than  some  others  which  he  had  made, 
told  severely  on  his  weakened  constitution.  “ In  the  latter  part 
of  it,”  he  says,  “ I felt  as  if  dying  on  my  feet.  Almost  every 
step  was  in  pain,  the  appetite  failed,  and  a little  bit  of  meat 
caused  violent  diarrhoea,  whilst  the  mind,  sorely  depressed,  re- 
acted on  the  body.  All  the  traders  were  returning  successful : 

I alone  had  failed  and  experienced  worry,  thwarting,  baffling, 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AN ^ DEATH  41 1 


when  almost  in  sight  of  the  end  towards  which  I strained.” 
Ujiji  was  reached  on  October  23d.  He  was  now  reduced  to  a 
skeleton,  but  the  market  being  held  daily,  and  all  kinds  of 
native  food  brought  to  it,  he  hoped  that  food  and  rest  would 
soon  restore  him.  On  the  very  day  of  his  arrival,  however,  he 
learned  that  the  rascally  Arab  in  whose  charge  his  goods  had 
been  left,  had  sold  them  all  off ; ‘‘he  did  not  leave  a single 
yard  of  calico  out  of  3,000,  nor  a string  of  beads  out  of  700 
lbs.  This  was  distressing.  I had  made  up  my  mind,  if  I could 
not  get  people  at  Ujiji,  to  wait  till  men  should  come  from  the 
coast,  but  to  wait  in  beggary  was  what  I never  contemplated, 
and  I now  felt  miserable.”  Under  date  of  October  28th  he 
adds : 

“ But  when  my  spirits  were  at  their  lowest  ebb,  the  good 
Samaritan  was  close  at  hand,  for  one  morning  Susi  came  run- 
ning at  the  top  of  his  speed  and  gasped  out,  ‘ An  Englishman  ! 
1 see  him ! 5 and  off  he  darted  to  meet  him.  The  American 
flag  at  the  head  of  a caravan  told  of  the  nationality  of  the 
stranger.  Bales  of  goods,  baths  of  tin,  huge  kettles,  cooking 
pots,  tents,  etc.,  made  me  think  ‘ This  must  be  a luxurious  trav- 
eller, and  not  one  at  his  wits’  end  like  me.’  It  was  Henry 
Moreland  Stanley,  the  travelling  correspondent  of  the  New 
Yorlc  Herald , sent  by  James  Gordon  Bennett,  junior,  at  an 
expense  of  more  than  4,000/.,  to  obtain  accurate  information 
about  Dr.  Livingstone  if  living,  and  if  dead  to  bring  home  my 
bones.  The  news  he  had  to  tell  to  one  who  had  been  two  full 
years  without  any  tidings  from  Europe  made  my  whole  frame 
thrill.  The  terrible  fate  that  had  befallen  France,  the  tele- 
graphic cables  successfully  laid  in  the  Atlantic,  the  election  of 
General  Grant,  the  death  of  good  Lord  Clarendon — •my  con- 
stant friend — the  proof  that  Her  Majesty’s  Government  had  not 
forgotten  me  in  voting  1,000/.  for  supplies,  and  many  other 
points  of  interest,  revived  emotions  that  had  lain  dormant  in 
Manyuema.  Appetite  returned,  and  instead  of  the  spare,  taste- 
less two  meals  a day,  I ate  four  times  daily,  and  in  a week  be- 
gan to  feel  strong.  I am  not  of  a demonstrative  turn  ; as  cold, 
indeed,  as  we  islanders  are  usually  reputed  to  be,  but  this  dis- 
interested kindness  of  Mr.  Bennett,  so  nobly  carried  into  effect 
by  Mr.  Stanley,  was  simply  overwhelming.  I really  do  feel 
extremely  grateful,  and  at  the  same  time  I am  a little  ashamed 
at  not  being  more  worthy  of  the  generosity.” 

Particulars  of  Stanley’s  stay  with  Livingstone,  of  their  ex- 
ploration of  the  northern  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika  and  discov- 
ery of  the  fact  that  the  Busisi  flows  into  and  not  out  of  the 


412  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


Lake,  and  of  their  march  to  Unyanyembe,  which  was  readied 
on  the  18t,li  of  February,  1872,  have  already  been  given  in  the 

E receding  chapter.  It  was  also  explained  in  that  chapter,  that 
ivingstone  was  to  remain  at  Unyanyembe  until  Stanley  could 
send  jiim  the  men  and  supplies  lie  needed  from  Zanzibar. 
Not  until  the  15th  of  August  did  the  caravan  arrive,  and 
though  well  housed  and  supplied,  Livingstone  became  very 
weary  before  the  long  period  of  waiting  was  over.  The  war 
with  Mirambo  was  still  dragging  on,  but  he  took  only  a lan- 
guid interest  in  it;  much  of  his  time  was  spent  in  making  elab- 
orate astronomical  and  meteorological  calculations.  One  entry 
of  this  period  is  interesting,  as  explaining  what  objects  he  had 
in  view  in  undertaking  his  last  fatal  journey.  “Mr.  Stanley,” 
he  says,  44  used  some  very  strong  arguments  in  favor  of  my 
going  home,  recruiting  my  strength,  getting  artificial  teeth,  and 
then  returning  to  finish  my  task;  but  now  judgment  said, 
4 All  your  friends  will  wish  you  to  make  a complete  work  of 
the  exploration  of  the  sources  of  the  Nile  before  you  retire.’ 
My  daughter  Agnes  says,  4 Much  as  I wish  you  to  come  home, 
I would  rather  that  you  finished  your  work  to  your  own  satis- 
faction than  return  merely  to  gratify  me.’  Lightly  and 
nobly  said,  my  darling  Nannie.  Vanity  whispers  pretty  loudly, 
4 She  is  a chip  of  the  old  block.’  My  blessing  on  her  and  all 
the  rest. 

44  It  is  all  but  certain  that  four  full-grown  gushing  fountains 
rise  on  the  watershed  eight  days  south  of  Katanga,  each  of 
which  at  no  great  distance  off  becomes  a large  river;  and  two 
rivers  thus  formed  flow  north  to  Egypt,  the  other  two  south  to 
Inner  Ethiopia ; that  is,  Lufira  or  Bartle  Frere’s  Liver,  flows 
into  Kamolondo,  and  that  into  Webb’s  Lualaba,  the  main  line 
of  drainage.  Another,  on  the  north  side  of  the  sources,  Sir 
Paraffin  Young’s  Lualaba,  flows  through  Lake  Lincoln,  other- 
wise named  Chibungo  and  Loiname,  and  that  too  into  Webb’s 
Lualaba.  Then  Liambai  Fountain,  Palmerston’s,  forms  the 
Upper  Zambesi ; and  the  Longa  (Lunga),  Oswell’s  Fountain,  is 
the  Kafue  ; both  flowing  into  Inner  Ethiopia.  It  may  be  that 
these  are  not  the  fountains  of  the  Nile  mentioned  to  Herodo- 
tus by  the  secretary  of  Minerva,  in  Sais,  in  Egypt;  but  they 
are  worth  discovery,  as  in  the  last  hundred  of  the  seven  hun- 
dred miles  of  the  watershed,  from  which  nearly  all  the  Nile 
springs  do  unquestionably  arise. 

44 1 propose  to  go  from  Unyanyembe  to  Fipa ; then  round 
the  south  end  of  Tanganyika,  Tambete,  or  Mbete ; then  across 
the  Chambeze,  and  round  south  of  Lake  Bangweolo,  and  due 


POTAMUS  FAMILY, 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  413 


west  to  the  ancient  fountains  ; leaving  the  underground  excava- 
tion till  after  visiting  Katanga.  This  routo  will  serve  to  cer- 
tify that  no  other  sources  of  the  Nile  can  come  from  the  south 
without  being  seen  by  me.  No  one  will  cut  me  out  after  this 
exploration  is  accomplished ; and  may  the  good  Lord  of  all 
help  me  to  show  myself  one  of  His  stout-hearted  servants,  an 
honor  to  my  children,  and,  perhaps,  to  my  country  and  race.” 
In  another  entry  several  months  later  we  find  that  he  calcu- 
lated on  his  work  occupying  him  till  1874.  u Stanley’s  men 
may  arrive  in  July  next.  Then  engage  pagazi  [bearers]  half  a 
month = August,  5 months  of  this  year  will  remain  for  journey, 
the  whole  of  1873  will  be  swallowed  up  in  work,  but  in  Febru- 
ary or  March,  1874,  please  the  Almighty  Disposer  of  events, 
1 shall  complete  my  task  and  retire.” 

Still  another  entry,  made  at  this  time,  shows  that  some 
Africans  at  least  are  not  deficient  in  coolness  and  courage  : 

“ At  the  Loangwa  of  Zumbo  we  came  to  a party  of  heredi- 
tary hippopotamus  hunters,  called  Makombwe  or  Akombwe. 
They  follow  no  other  occupation,  but  when  their  game  is  get- 
ting scanty  at  one  spot  they  remove  to  some  other  part  of  the 
Loangwa,  Zambesi,  or  Shire,  and  build  temporary  huts  on  an 
island,  where  their  women  cultivate  patches : the  flesh  of  the 
animals  they  kill  is  eagerly  exchanged  by  the  more -settled  peo- 
ple for  grain.  They  are  not  stingy,  and  are  everywhere 
welcome  guests--  I never  heard  of  any  fraud  in  dealing,  or 
that  they  had  been  guilty  of  an  outrage  on  the  poorest : their 
chief  characteristic  is  their  courage.  Their  hunting  is  the 
bravest  thing  I ever  saw.  Each  canoe  is  manned  by  two  men ; 
they  are  long  light,  craft,  scarcely  half  an  inch  in  thickness, 
about  eighteen  inches  beam,  and  from  eighteen  to  twenty  feet 
long.  They  are  formed  for  speed,  and  shaped  somewhat  like 
our  racing  boats.  Each  man  uses  a broad  short  paddle,  and  as 
they  guide  the  canoe  slowly  down  stream  to  a sleeping  hippo- 
potamus not  a single  ripple  is  raised  on  the  smooth  water; 
they  look  as  if  lidding  in  their  breath,  and  communicate  by 
signs  only.  As  they  come  near  the  prey  the  harpooner  in  the 
bow  lays  down  his  paddle  and  rises  slowly  up,  and  there  he 
stands  erect,  motionless,  and  eager,  with  the  long-handled 
weapon  poised  at  arm’s  length  above  his  head,  till  coming 
close  to  the  beast  he  plunges  it  with  all  his  might  in  towards 
the  heart.  During  this  exciting  feat  he  has  to  keep  his  bal- 
ance exactly.  Ilis  neighbor  in  the  stern  at  once  backs  his 
paddle,  the  harpooner  sits  down,  Seizes  his  paddle,  and  backs 
too  to  escape : the  animal,  surprised  and  wounded,  seldom  re- 


414  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


turns  the  attack  at  this  stage  of  the  hunt.  The  next  stage, 
however,  is  full  of  danger. 

“ The  barbed  blade  of  the  harpoon  is  secured  by  a long  and 
very  strong  rope  wound  round  the  handle : it  is  intended  to 
come  out  of  its  socket,  and  while  the  iron  head  is  firmly  fixed 
in  the  animal’s  body  the  rope  unwinds  and  the  handle  floats  on 
the  surface.  The  hunter  next  goes  to  the  handle  and  hauls  on 
the  rope  till  he  knows  that  he  is  right  over  the  beast : when  he 
feels  the  line  suddenly  slacken  ho  is  prepared  to  deliver  another 
harpoon  the  instant  that,  hippo. ’s  enormous  jaws  appear  with  a 
terrible  grunt  above  the  water.  The  backing  by  the  paddles  is 
again  repeated,  but  hippo,  often  assaults  the  canoe,  crunches  it 
with  his  jaws  as  easily  as  a pig  would  a bunch  of  asparagus,  or 
shivers  it  with  a kick  by  his  hind  foot.  Deprived  of  their 
canoe  the  gallant  comrades  instantly  dive  and  swim  to  the 
shore  under  water : they  say  that  the  infuriated  beast  looks  for 
them  on  the  surface,  and  being  below  they  escape  his  sight. 
When  caught  by  many  harpoons  the  crews  of  several  canoes 
seize  the  handles  and  drag  him  hither  and  thither  till,  weak- 
ened by  loss  of  blood,  he  succumbs. 

“This  hunting  requires  the  greatest  skill,  courage,  and  nerve 
that  can  be  conceived — double  armed  and  threefold  brass,  or 
whatever  the  iEneid  says.  The  Makombwe  are  certainly  a 
magnificent  race  of  men,  hardy  and  active  in  their  habits,  and 
well  fed,  as  the  result  of  their  brave  exploits  ; every  muscle  is 
well  developed,  and  though  not  so  tall  as  some  tribes,  their 
figures  are  compact  and  finely  proportioned : being  a family 
occupation  it  has  no  doubt  helped  in  the  production  of  fino 
physical  development.  Though  all  the  people  among  whom 
they  sojourn  would  like  the  profits  they  secure  by  the  flesh  and 
curved  tusks,  and  no  game  is  preserved,  I have  met  with  no 
competitors  to  them  except  the  Wayeiye  of  Lake  Ngami  and 
adjacent  rivers. 

“ I have  seen  our  dragoon  officers  perform  fencing  and 
managing  tlicir  horses  so  dexterously  that  every  muscle  seemed 
strained  to  its  fullest  power  and  efficiency,  and  perhaps  had  they 
been  brought  up  as  Makombwe,  they  might  have  equalled  their 
daring  and  consummate  skill:  but  we  have  no  sport,  except 
perhaps  Indian  tiger  shooting,  requiring  the  courage  and  cool- 
ness this  enterprise  demands.  The  danger  may  be  appreciated 
if  one  remembers  that  no  sooner  is  blood  shed  in  the  water, 
than  all  the  crocodiles  below  are  immediately  drawn  up  stream 
by  the  scent,  and  are  ready  to  act  the  part  of  thieves  in  a Lon- 
don crowd,  or  worse.” 


LIVING STCNE \9  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  415 


As  lias  already  been  stated,  the  men  from  Zanzibar,  57  in 
number,  arrived  on  the  15th  of  August,  and  on  the  25th  Liv- 
ingstone set  out  with  them  and  his  faithful  followers,  Susi, 
Chiuna,  and  three  others  who  had  been  with  him  from  the 
beginning,  for  Lake  Bangwcolo.  The  journey  thither  was 
almost  without  incident  of  interest.  After  reaching  Lake 
Tanganyika,  the  party  marched  down  its  eastern  shore  over  a 
mountainous,  rugged,  and  exceedingly  difficult  country,  which 
cost  them  all  their  animals  save  one  donkey;  rounded  the 
southern  shore  of  the  lake ; inarched  southwest  to  the  town  of 
Casembe,  who  was  dead;  and  then  southeast  to  the  eastern 
end  of  Lake  Bangweolo.  Very  great  hardships  were  encoun- 
tered. The  depredations  of  the  Arabs  had  left  the  entire 
country  in  confusion,  and  the  natives  were  much  more  hostile 
and  intractable  than  during  the  previous  journeys ; owing  to 
the  impossibility  of  obtaining  guides,  they  were  constantly 
getting  lost;  and,  as  the  culminating  point  of  their  difficulties, 
they  found  as  they  approached  Lake  Bangweolo  that  the  en- 
tire country  was  flooded,  while  every  day  they  were  drenched  with 
rain.  Almost  at  the  beginning  of  the  journey  it  becomes  evi- 
dent that  Livingstone’s  health  was  failing.  He  complains 
frequently  of  weakness,  and  his  old  enemy,  dysentery,  fastened 
upon  him  and  entered  the  chronic  stage.  On  nearing  the  lake 
and  entering  the  flooded  country,  the  ill  effects  of  which  were 
greatly  increased  by  the  daily  downpour  of  rain,  he  became 
gradually  worse,  and  we  come  across  many  entries  like  the 
following : — “ 27 tli  January . — On  again  through  streams,  over 
sponges  and  rivulets  thigh  deep.  I lost  much  blood,  but  it  is 
a safety-valve  for  me,  and  I have  no  fever  or  other  ailments.” 
“22 d February. — . . . I was  ill  all  yesterday,  but  escaped 
fever  by  hemorrhage.” 

The  Chambeze  was  crossed  in  canoes  on  the  26th  of  March, 
1873,  and  the  party  began  to  skirt  the  southern  shore  of  the 
Lake.  For  a few  days  Livingstone  seems  to  have  felt  better 
and  to  have  looked  forward  hopefully  to  accomplishing  his 
great  task  ; but  on  the  10th  of  April  he  suffered  a severe 
attack,  and  from  this  time  failed  rapidly.  At  first  he  got  for- 
ward on  the  donkey,  but  as  his  weakness  increased  lie  could 
not  endure  even  this,  and  his  men  had  to  construct  a rude 
palanquin,  slung  to  a pole,  on  which  he  could  be  carried.  It 
is  evident  from  his  diary  that  he  was  unable  to  do  more  than 
make  the  shortest  memoranda,  and  to  mark  on  the  map  which 
he  was  making  the  streams  that  enter  the  Lake  as  he  crossed 
them.  F roin  the  22d  to  the  26th  of  April  he  had  not  strength 


416  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


to  write  down  more  than  the  several  dates.  No  entry  at  all 
was  made  in  the  diary  after  the  following : “ 27th.  Knocked 
up  quite,  and  remain — recover — sent  to  buy  milch  goats.  We 
are  on  the  banks  of  the  Molilamo.”  These  are  the  last  words 
that  Livingstone  ever  wrote. 

From  this  point  we  have  to  trust  entirely  to  the  narrative  of 
Ohuma  and  Susi.  They  explain  that  during  these  few  days 
they  were  marching  westward  by  short  stages,  but  the  motion 
of  the  palanquin  became  so  painful  to  Livingstone  that  bn  the 
29th  they  were  glad  to  enter  the  village  of  a chief  called 
Chitambo,  and  prepare  a but.  They  made  a bed  for  their 
dying  leader,  raised  from  the  floor  by  sticks  and  grass,  aDd 
placed  his  medicine-chest  on  a box  near  him.  A fire  was 
lighted  outside,  nearly  opposite  the  door,  whilst  the  boy  Maj- 
wara  slept  just  within  to  attend  to  his  master’s  wants. 

“ On  the  30th  of  April,  1S73,  Chitambo  came  early  to  pay  a 
visit  of  courtesy,  and  was  shown  into  the  Doctor’s  presence ; 
but  lie  was  obliged  to  send  him  away,  telling  him  to  come 
again  on  the  morrow,  when  he  hoped  to  have  more  strength  to 
talk  to  him,  and  lie  was  not  again  disturbed.  In  the  afternoon 
he  asked  Susi  to  bring  his  watch  to  the  bedside,  and  explained 
to  him  the  position  in  which  to  hold  his  hand,  that  it  might  lio 
in  the  palm  whilst  he  slowly  turned  the  key. 

“ So  the  hours  stole  on  till  nightfall.  The  men  silently  took 
to  their  huts,  whilst  others,  whose  duty  it  was  to  keep  watch, 
sat  round  the  fires,  all  feeling  that  the  end  could  not  be  far  off. 
About  11p.  m.  Susi,  whose  hut  was  close  by,  was  told  to  go  to 
his  master.  At  the  time  there  were  loud  shouts  in  the  dis- 
tance, and,  on  entering-  Dr  Livinorstorm  said, 1 Are  our  men 


the  cries  that  the  people  arc  scaring  away  a buffalo  from  their 
dura  fields.’  A few  minutes  afterwards  he  said  slowly,  and 
evidently  wandering,  ‘ Is  this  the  Luapula  ? ’ Susi  told  him 
they  were  in  Chitambo’s  village,  near  the  Molilamo,  when  ho 
was  silent  for  a while.  Again,  speaking  to  Susi,  in  Sualieli 
this  time,  he  said,  ‘ Sikun’gapi  kueuda  Luapula  ? ’ (How  many 
days  is  it  to  the  Luapula  ?) 

“ ‘ Na  zani  zikutatu,  Bwaua 5 (I  think  it  is  three  days,  mas- 
ter), replied  Susi. 

u A few  seconds  after,  as  if  in  great  pain,  he  half  sighed, 
lialf  said,  ‘ Oh  dear,  dear ! ’ and  then  dozed  off  again. 

“ It  was  about  an  hour  later  that  Susi  heard  Majwara  again 
outside  the  door, 1 Bwana  wants  you,  Susi.’  On  reaching  the 
bed  the  Doctor  told  him  he  wished  him  to  boil  some  water, 


making  that  noise  ? ’ 


can  hear  from 


LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH.  417 


and  for  this  purpose  lie  went  to  the  lire  outside,  and  soon 
returned  with  the  copper  kettle  full.  Calling  him  close,  he 
asked  him  to  bring  his  medicine-chest  and  to  hold  the  candle 
near  him,  for  the  man  noticed  he  could  hardly  see.  With 
great  difficulty  Dr.  Livingstone  selected  the  calomel,  which  he 
told  him  to  place  by  his  side;  then,  directing  him  to  pour  a 
little  water  into  a cup,  and  to  put  another  empty  one  by  it,  he 
6aid  in  a low,  feeble  voice,  4 All  right ; you  can  go  out  now.’ 
These  were  the  last  words  he  was  ever  heard  to  speak. 

44  It  must  have  been  about  4 a.  m.  when  Susi  heard  Majwara’s 
6tep  once  more.  ‘ Come  to  13  wan  a ; I am  afraid  ; I don’t  know 
if  he  is  alive.’  The  lad’s  evident  alarm  made  Susi  run  to 
arouse  Churna,  Chow pe re,  Matthew,  and  Muanyasere,  and  the 
six  men  went  immediately  to  the  hut. 

“ Passing  inside,  they  looked  towards  the  bed.  Dr.  Living- 
stone was  not  lying  on  it,  but  appeared  to  be  engaged  in 
prayer,  and  they  instinctively  drew  backwards  for  the  instant. 
Pointing  to  him,  Majwara  said : 4 When  I lay  down  he  was 
just  as  lie  is  now,  and  it  is  because  I find  that  he  does  not 
move  that  I fear  he  is  dead.’  They  asked  the  lad  how  long 
he  had  slept?  Majwara  said  he  could  not  tell,  but  lie  was 
sure  that  it  was  some  considerable  time:  the  men  drew  nearer. 

“A  candle,  stuck  by  its  own  wax  to  the  top  of  the  box, 
6hed  a light  sufficient  for  them  to  see  his  form.  Dr..  Living- 
stone was  kneeling  by  the  side  of  his  bed,  his  body  stretched 
forward,  his  head  buried  in  his  hands  upon  the  pillow.  For  a 
minute  they  watched  him:  he  did  not  stir;  there  was  no  sign 
of  breathing;  then  one  of  them,  Matthew,  advanced. soft Ly  to 
him  and  placed  his  hands  to  his  cheeks.  It  was  sufficient ;. 
life  had  been  extinct  some  time,  and  the  body  was  almost  cold  : 
Livingstone  was  dead. 

44  Ilis  sad-hearted  servants  raised  him  tenderly  up  and  laid 
him  full  length  on  the  bed  ; then,  carefully  covering  him, .they 
went  out  into  the  damp  night  air  to  consult  together..  It  was 
not  long  before  the  cocks  crew,  and  it  is  from  this  circumstance 
— coupled  with  the  fact  that  Susi  spoke  to  him  some  time 
shortly  before  midnight — that  we  are  able  to  state  with  tolera- 
ble certainty  that  he  expired  early  on  the  1st  of  May.” 

Thus  closed  the  earthly  career  of  one  of  the  greatest  ex- 
plorers ever  known  ; a man  of  truly  heroic  mould,,  whose  char- 
acter was  as  lovable  as  his  achievements  were  splendid,  lie 
died,  as  he  must  many  times  have  expected  to  die,  with  his 
weary  feet  still  treading  the  unmapped  forest-paths  and  river- 
banks  of  the  African  wilderness.  Hut  he  had.  faced  the  like- 
27 


418  LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNEYS  AND  DEATH. 


lihood  of  a “ death  in  harness  ” far  too  often  not  to  have  been 
prepared  for  it;  and  much  as  he  would  have  valued  the  pres- 
ence with  him  at  the  last  hour  of  those  who  were  dear  to  him, 
eagerly  as  he  hoped  to  solve  the  great  problem  of  the  Nile 
sources,  yet  his  journal  shows  that  lie  faced  whatever  fate  tVas 
in  store  for  him  with  calm  resignation  to  the  will  of  Heaven. 
The  geographical  work  which  this  one  indomitable,  resolute, 
and  courageous  man  accomplished  can  only  be  appreciated  by 
those  who  know  the  map  of  Africa  as  he  found  it  in  1840,  and 
that  same  map  as  it  will  be  after  the  discoveries  of  these  last 
journeys  are  assigned  their  place  upon  it.  When  he  was  a 
young  man  as  little  was  known  of  Central  Africa  as  is  now 
known  of  the  regions  round  the  North  Pole.  It  was  the  pop- 
ular theory,  as  he  tells  us  himself,  that  it  was  an  uninhabited 
wilderness;  but  when,  after  crossing  the  Great  Kalahari 
Desert,  which  had  repelled  all  his  predecessors,  he  reached 
Lake  Ngami  and  the  banks  of  the  Zambesi ; when  he  made 
his  marvellous  journey  to  Angola,  and  then  marched  straight 
back  across  the  continent  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Indian 
Ocean,  geographers  were  enabled  to  define  Central  Africa  as 
a fertile  plateau,  with  great  lakes  lying  in  vast  basins,  and 
rivers  escaping  to  the  sea  through  gorges  or  ravines  in  the 
mountain  walls.  Livingstone’s  actual  discoveries  have  laid 
bare  a continent  to  view  ; but  even  more  valuable  than  these 
is  the  impulse  which  his  example  has  given  to  the  cause  of 
exploration  in  Europe  and  America. 

IIow  Livingstone’s  body  was  embalmed  in  a rude  but  effec- 
tive fashion,  wrapped  in  a strip  of  bark,  and  conveyed  to  the 
coast  by  the  faithful  men  who  constituted  his  caravan,  is 
already  known  to  the  world.  The  march  to  Zanzibar  from  the 
farthest  point  ever  reached  by  a white  man  in  Central  Africa, 
forms  one  of  the  most  romantic  and  affecting  episodes  in  the 
entire  history  of  African  exploration  ; but  we  can  do  no  more 
than  mention  it  here.  To  its  complete  success  we  are  indebted 
for  our  knowledge  of  what  Livingstone  really  did  during  his 
seven  years’  journeyings  ; and  to  it  also  we  owe  it  that  instead 
of  sinking  into  an  obscure,  unhonored,  and  unknown  grave  in 
the  marshes  by  Lake  Bangweolo,  the  great  traveller  now  rests 
in  Westminster  Abbey  among  his  country’s  most  illustrious 
dead. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


SCHWEINFURTH. 

Dr.  Georg  A.  Sciiwkinfurtii  was  born  at  Riga  in  December, 
1836,  and  was  the  son  of  a merchant  of  that  place.  He  studied 
at  Heidelberg  and  Berlin,  where  he  took  his  degree  as  Doctor 
of  Philosophy,  and  devoted  himself  from  his  boyhood  to  the 
science  of  botany.  At  his  first  school  one  of  his  masters  was 
the  son  of  a missionary  in  Africa,  and  was  accustomed  to  de- 
scribe with  enthusiasm  the  wonders  of  that  country;  it  was  in 
this  way,  probably,  that  his  mind  was  turned  to  that  country 
which  has  since  become  the  arena  of  achievements  that  have 
made  him  famous.  The  interest  thus  awakened  was  strength- 
ened by  the  fact  that  after  he  had  arrived  at  manhood,  a collec- 
tion of  African  plants  was  placed  in  his  hand  for  classification 
and  arrangement.  These  plants  had  been  collected,  in  1860,  by 
the  young  Freiherr  von  Barnirn,  who  had,  in  company  with  Dr. 
Hartmann,  made  a journey  in  the  region  of  the  Nile,  and  had 
fallen  a victim  to  the  climate.  As  Dr.  Scliweinfnrth  day  by 
day  studied  these  dry  specimens,  a yearning  came  upon  him  to 
visit  the  scenes  in  which  he  might  look  upon  them  in  all  their 
bloom  and  beaut}7.  He  therefore,  in  1863,  went  to  Egypt  that 
he  might  gratify  this  desire,  and,  perchance,  further  the  interests 
of  his  beloved  science  by  the  discovery  of  new  species.  He 
went  at  his  own  cost,  and,  having  botanized  in  the  Delta  of  the 
Nile,  travelled  along  the  shores  of  the  Red  Sea,  skirted  the 
highlands  of  Abyssinia,  made  his  way  to  Khartoom,  and  finally 
returned  to  Europe,  after  an  absence  of  two  years  and  a half, 
with  a splendid  collection  of  plants. 

Having  once  tasted  of  what  was  to  him  the  great  enjoy- 
ment of  African  travel,  Schweinfurth  began  very  soon  to  lan- 
guish for  its  repetition.  He  therefore  submitted  to  the  Royal 
Academy  of  Science  at  Berlin  apian  for  the  botanical  explora- 
tion of  the  equatorial  districts  lying  west  of  the  Nile.  Ilis  pro- 
posal was  readily  accepted,  and  he  received  a grant  of  'he  dis- 
posable funds  of  the  Humboldt  Institution  of  Natural  Phi- 
losophy and  Travels,  the  object  of  which  is,  without  regard  to 
nationality  or  creed,  to  assist  talent  in  every  field  in  which 
Humboldt  had  displayed  his  scientific  energies,  and  especially 


420 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


to  promote  travels  in  remote  parts  of  the  world.  He  conse- 
quently spent  the  three  years  from  1808  to  1871  in  African 
exploration. 

His  account  of  his  travels  has  recently  been  published  in  an 
English  translation  entitled  “ The  Heart  of  Africa,”  and  it  is 
from  this  that  we  shall  abridge  the  following  narrative.  Before 
entering  upon  that,  however,  it  may  be  well  to  observe  that  Dr. 
Schweinfurth  is  a man  whose  personal  attainments  have  rarely 
if  ever  been  equaled  by  any  of  the  rivals  whose  names  are  found 
in  the  long  list  of  African  explorers.  An  accomplished  natural- 
ist, a most  enthusiastic  scientific  botanist,  with  sufficient  knowl- 
edge of  ethnology  to  enable  him  to  study  intelligently  the  com- 
plicated network  of  races  that  overspreads  the  whole  of  Central 
Africa,  an  ardent  geographer,  a thoroughly  trained  observer, 
master  of  a style  which  is  lucid  and  pleasing,  if  somewhat  dif- 
fuse, and  a draughtsman  whose  sketches  are  finished  works  of 
art,  he  possesses  nearly  every  qualification,  natural  or  acquired, 
that  could  be  desired  for  such  an  undertaking.  And  in  addition 
to  this,  his  expedition  was  made  under  circumstances  unprece- 
dentedly advantageous.  Instead  of  the  helpless  dependence 
upon  the  prejudices  and  caprice  of  petty  chieftains,  which  has 
been  the  lot  of  every  other  adventurer  into  these  regions,  Dr. 
Schweinfurth  was,  during  the  entire  period  of  his  explorations, 
unde)-  the  protection  of  an  escort  of  the  powerful  trading  com- 
panies of  the  great  Khartoom  merchants — a privileged  com- 
panion of  their  remotest  expeditions,  and  an  honored  guest  in 
their  seribas.  His  progress  among  the  interior  tribes,  owing  to 
the  curiosity  and  awe  which  he  inspired,  and  the  powerful  allies 
with  whom  he  travelled,  was  almost  a triumphal  march;  and 
even  among  the  savage  and  tameless  Monbutto,  he  dictated 
terms  rather  than  accepted  toleration.  Scarcely  once  during 
his  three  years’  journeying  was  he  subjected  to  those  perils 
which  were  almost  the  daily  experience  of  previous  African 
explorers.  The  result  is  that  his  book  is  a record,  not  so  much 
of  “ hair-breadth  ’scapes”  and  perilous  adventure,  as  of  careful 
scientific  investigations  prosecuted  under  extremely  favorable 
conditions. 

In  July,  1868,  Schweinfurth  found  himself  once  more,  to  his 
great  delight,  on  the  soil  of  Africa.  After  a brief  visit  to 
Egypt,  during  which  he  provided  himself  with  papers  from 
the  Prime  Minister  of  the  Viceroy  to  the  governors  in  the  in- 
terior which  contributed  materially  to  the  success  of  his  enter- 
prise, he  visited  Suez  and  decided  to  proceed  to  Khartoom  by 
way  of  Suakin  and  Berber  instead  of  making  the  long  voyage 


sen  WE1NF  URTII. 


421 


up  the  Nile.  Suakin  is  a port  on  the  Ned  Sea  about  200  miles 
distant  from  Berber,  and  he  made  the  journey  between  the 
two  places  in  a leisurely  way,  diverging  from  the  main  route 
to  make  a tour  through  the  mountains  of  Southern  Nubia.  lie 
reached  Berber  on  October  7th,  and  embarking  on  the  Nile 
arrived  at  Khartoom,  the  real  starting-point  of  his  expedition, 
on  the  1st  of  November. 

Instead  of  fitting  out  an  independent  expedition  with  native 
soldiers  and  porters,  as  was  the  custom  with  most  previous  ex- 
plorers, he  concluded  that  such  a course  would  not  only  arouse 
the  hostility  of  the  chiefs  into  whose  territory  he  desired  to 
penetrate,  but  would  encounter  the  jealousy  of  the  traders  and 
merchants,  whose  influence  is  predominant  in  all  the  regions 
whither  they  penetrate,  and  determined  to  attach  himself  to 
the  train  of  the  ivory-merchants  of  Khartoom,  trusting  that 
the  countries  opened  by  them  would  offer  sufficient  scope  for 
all  his  energies.  These  merchants  maintain  a great  number  of 
settlements  in  districts  as  near  as  possible  to  the  present  ivory 
countries.  They  have  apportioned  the  territory  amongst  them- 
selves, and  have  brought  the  natives  to  a condition  of  vassalage. 
Under  the  protection  of  an  armed  guard  procured  from  Khar- 
toom, they  have  established  various  depots,  undertaken  expedi- 
tions into  the  interior,  and  secured  an  unmolested  transit  to  and 
fro.  These  depots  for  ivory,  ammunition,  barter-goods,  and 
means  of  subsistence,  are  villages  surrounded  by  palisades,  and 
are  called  seribas.  Every  merchant,  in  the  different  districts 
where  he  maintains  his  settlements,  is  represented  by  a super- 
intendent and  a number  of  subordinate  agents.  These  agents 
command  the  armed  men  of  the  country ; determine  what  pro- 
ducts the  subjected  natives  must  pay  by  way  of  impost  to  sup- 
port the  soldiers,  as  well  as  the  number  of  bearers  they  must 
furnish  for  the  distant  exploring  expeditions ; carry  on  war  or 
make  alliances  with  the  chiefs  of  the  ivory  countries ; and  once 
a year  remit  the  collected  stores  to  Khartoom. 

Both  the  principal  districts  of  the  Khartoom  ivory-trade  are 
accessible  by  the  navigation  of  the  two  source  affluents  of  the 
White  Nile,  viz.,  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal,  or  Gazelle  River,  and  the 
Bahr-el-Gebel.  On  the  Bahr-el-Gebel,  the  extreme  point  of 
navigation  is  the  well-known  Gondokoro,  the  termination  of  a 
series  of  voyages  of  discovery,  which  have  opened  up  all  the 
adjacent  region.  On  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  a kind  of  cul-de-sac 
leads  to  the  only  existing  meshera,  or  landing-place  ; but  be- 
yond this  the  Khartoom  people  had  already  advanced  some  five 
degrees  in  a southerly  and  westerly  direction  into  the  very 


422 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


heart  of  the  unexplored  region  in  which  lie  the  sources  of  the 
Nile.  This  direction  seemed  decidedly  most  promising  to  an 
explorer,  and  accordingly  Schweinfurth  made  a contract  with 
a Coptic  Christian  named  Ghattas,  a rich  ivory-trader,  and  the 
owner  of  large  territory  in  the  farthest  interior.  This  contract 
was  made  under  the  special  supervision  of  the  Governor-Gem 
eral  of  Kliartoom,  to  whom  the  Prime  Minister’s  orders  before- 
mentioned  were  especially  addressed.  In  it,  Ghattas  engaged 
to  supply  the  means  of  subsistence,  and  to  furnish  Schwein- 
furtli  with  bearers  and  an  adequate  number  of  armed  men. 
He  also  placed  at  his  disposal  a boat  for  the  journey  up  the 
river,  and  it  was  expressly  stipulated  that  Schweinfurth  should 
be  at  liberty  to  join  all  the  enterprises  and  excursions  of  Ghat- 
tas’ people.  In  addition  to  this,  Ghattas  was  required  to  be- 
come surety  against  any  misadventure  that  might  happen  to 
the  traveller  in  the  interior;  and  if  the  latter  were  betrayed  to 
cannibals  or  left  in  the  land  among  savages,  the  merchant  would 
have  good  cause  to  apprehend  the  confiscation  of  his  estates. 

In  order  to  have  about  him  a number  of  people  upon  whose 
fidelity  and  attachment  he  might  rely  under  all  circumstances, 
Schweinfurth  took  into  his  service  six  Nubians  who  had  settled 
in  Kliartoom  with  their  wives  and  children,  and  who  had  al- 
ready travelled  in  different  parts  of  the  Upper  Nile  under 
other  Europeans.  He  was  also  accompanied  by  Aislan,  a great 
sheep-dog,  which  he  had  brought  with  him  from  Europe,  and 
in  all  the  villages  through  which  he  passed  the  inhabitants 
scampered  off  in  terror,  crying  “ Hyaena,  hyaena  ! ” It  was 
difficult  to  make  them  understand  that  the  brown-spotted  ani- 
mal was  only  a dog. 

All  things  being  at  length  in  readiness,  the  papers  signed, 
the  boat  chartered,  the  crew  engaged,  and  a “ lucky  day  ” fixed 
upon,  the  traveller  left  Kliartoom  on  January  5th,  1869,  for  the 
voyage  up  the  White  Nile.  Night  and  day  the  boat  sailed  or 
drifted  toward  the  south,  occasional  stoppages  being  made  to 
visit  interesting  localities  or  to  botanize  in  the  neighboring 
forests.  At  Fashoda,  a garrison  town  at  the  extreme  limit  of 
the  Egyptian  empire,  a stoppage  of  nine  days  w’as  made ; and 
Schweinfurth  took  advantage  of  this  to  explore  the  neighbor- 
ing country  of  the  Shillooks. 

The  Shillook  tribe  inhabits  the  entire  left  bank  of  the  White 
Nile,  occupying  a territory  about  200  miles  long  by  10  miles 
wide,  which  extends  right  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gazelle  River. 
Their  subjection  to  the  Egyptian  government,  which  was  com- 
pleted in  1871,  lias  caused  a census  to  be  taken,  and  it  was 


sen  WE  INF  U R Til. 


m 

found  that  the  villages  numbered  no  less  than  3,000,  with  a 
total  population  of  about  1,200,000.  No  known  part  of  Af- 
rica, scarcely  even  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Nile  in  Egypt,  has 
a density  of  population  so  great ; but  a similar  condition  of 
circumstances,  so  favorable  to  the  support  of  a teeming  popu- 
lation, is  perhaps  without  a parallel  in  the  world.  Everything 
which  contributes  to  the  exuberance  of  life  here  finds  a con- 
centrated field — agriculture,  pasturage,  fishing,  and  the  chase. 
Agriculture  is  rendered  easy  by  the  natural  fertility  of  the 
soil,  by  the  recurrence  of  the  rain 3*  seasons,  by  irrigation  ef- 
fected. by  the  rising  of  the  river,  assisted  by  numerous  canals, 
and  by  an  atmosphere  ordinarily  so  over-clouded  as  to  moder- 
ate the  radiance  of  the  sun,  and  to  retain  throughout  the  year 
perpetual  moisture.  Of  fishing  there  is  plenty;  There  are 
crocodiles  and  hippopotamuses  in  abundance.  Across  the 
river  there  is  a free  and  open  chase  over  wildernesses  which 
would  advantageously  be  built  upon,  but  for  the  hostility  of  the 
neighboring  Dinka.  The  pasture  lands,  on  the  same  side  of 
the  river  as  the  dwellings,  are  invaluable  as  supplying  daily  re- 
sorts for  the  cattle. 

The  clusters  of  huts  of  which  the  Shillook  villages  are  com- 
posed, are  built  with  surprising  regularity,  and  are  so  closely 
crowded  together  that  they  cannot  fail  to  suggest  comparison 
with  a thick  mass  of  fungus  or  mushrooms.  Every  village  has 
its  overseer,  whilst  the  overseers  of  50  or  70,  or  sometimes  of 
100  villages,  are  subject  to  a superintendent,  who  has  control 
of  what  may  be  called  the  “ district,”  and  of  such  districts 
there  are  nearly  a hundred,  each  of  them  distinguished  by  its 
particular  name. 

I11  the  centre  of  each  village  there  is  a circular  space  where, 
evening  after  evening,  the  inhabitants  congregate,  and,  either 
stretched  upon  hides  or  squatting  down  on  mats  of  ambatch, 
inhale  the  vapor  from  burning  heaps  of  cow-dung  to  keep  off 
the  flies,  or  from  pipes  with  enormous  clay  bowls  smoke  the 
tobacco  of  the  countr}r.  In  these  spaces  there  is  frequently 
erected  the  great  stem  of  a tree,  on  which,  according  to  com- 
mon African  usage,  kettle-drums  are  hung  and  used  to  warn 
the  inhabitants  of  any  impending  danger,  and  to  communicate 
intelligence  to  the  neighborhood.  Most  of  the  negro  tribes  are 
distinguished  by  the  form  of  their  huts.  The  huts  of  the 
Shillooks  are  built  with  higher  Avails  than  those  of  the  Dinka, 
and,  as  an  ordinary  rule,  are  of  smaller  circumference ; the 
conical  roofs  do  not  rise  t'o  a peak,  but  are  rather  in  the  shape 
of  flattened  domes.  The  villages  are  not  enclosed  external!}', 


424: 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


but  are  bounded  by  fences  made  of  straw-mats  running  be- 
tween the  closely  crammed  houses,  and  which  serve  for  shelter 
to  the  cattle  of  individual  householders.” 

Cattle-raising  is  the  principal  occupation  of  the  Shillooks ; 
but  besides  cattle,  they  breed  sheep  and  goats,  and  keep  poultry 
and  dogs.  Other  animals  are  scarce,  and  probably  could  not 
endure  the  climate.  Throughout  the  country  dogs  abound,  in 
shape  like  greyhounds,  but  smaller,  and  so  fleet  that  with  the 
greatest  ease  they  outrun  the  gazelle. 

The  men  go  entirely  naked,  but  the  women  wear  an  apron 
of  calf-skin,  which  is  bound  around  their  loins  and  reaches  to 
their  knees.  Both  sexes  make  use  of  cosmetics  of  their  own, 
viz.,  a coating  of  ashes  for  protection  against  insects.  When 
the  ashes  are  prepared  from  wood  they  render  the  body  per- 
fectly gray,  and  hereby  are  known  the  poor ; when  obtained 
from  cow-dung  they  give  a rusty-red  tint,  and  hereby  can  be 
recognized  the  landowners.  Ashes,  dung,  and  the  urine  of 
cows  are  the  indispensable  requisites  of  the  toilet.  The  item 
last  named  affects  the  nose  of  the  stranger  rather  unpleasantly 
when  he  makes  use  of  any  of  their  milk-vessels,  as,  according 
to  a regular  African  habit,  they  are  washed  with  it,  probably 
to  compensate  for  a lack  of  salt. 

Like  most  of  the  naked  and  half-naked  Africans,  they  de- 
vote the  greatest  attention  to  the  arrangement  of  their  hair; 
on  every  other  portion  of  the  body  all  growth  of  hair  is  stopped 
by  its  being  all  carefully  plucked  out  at  its  very  flrst  appear- 
ance. Among  the  men,  the  repeated  application  of  clay,  gum, 
or  dung,  so  effectually  clots  the  hair  together  that  it  retains,  as 
it  were,  voluntarily  the  desired  form  ; at  one  time  like  a comb, 
at  another  like  a helmet,  or,  it  may  be,  like  a fan.  Many  of 
the  Shillook  men  present  in  this  respect  a great  vanity.  A 
good  many  wear  transversely  across  the  skull  a comb  as  broad 
as  a man’s  hand,  which,  like  a nimbus  of  tin,  stretches  from 
ear  to  ear,  and  terminates  behind  in  two  drooping  circular 
lappets.  Occasionally  there  are  heads  for  which  one  comb 
does  not  suffice,  and  on  these  several  combs,  parallel  to  one 
another  at  small  intervals,  are  arranged  in  lines.  There  is  a 
third  form,  far  from  uncommon,  than  which  nothing  can  be 
more  grotesque ; it  may  be  compared  to  the  crest  of  a guinea- 
fowl,  of  which  it  is  an  obvious  imitation.  The  women  wear 
short-cropped  hair  which  appears  to  be  stippled  over  with  fresh- 
sprouting,  woolly  locks.  Their  external  appearance  is  not 
improved  by  the  absence  of  the  lower  incisor  teeth,  which  are 
always  broken  off  in  early  life. 


8GH  WEINFURTB. 


425 


The  only  conception  which  the  Shillook  entertain  of  a higher 
existence  is  limited  to  their  reverence  for  a certain  hero,  who 
is  called  the  Father  of  his  race,  and  who  is  supposed  to  have 
conducted  them  to  the  land  which  they  at  present  occup}\  In 
case  of  famine,  or  in  older  that  they  may  have  rain,  or  that 
they  may  reap  a good  harvest,  they  call  upon  him  by  name. 
They  imagine  of  the  dead  that  they  arc  lingering  amongst  the 
living  and  still  attend  them. 

The  voyage  from  Fashoda  to  the  confluence  of  the  Gazelle 
and  the  Bahr-el-Gebel  was  devoid  of  any  striking  incidents ; 
but  before  the  mouth  of  the  Gazelle  was  gained,  the  boat  had 
to  encounter  the  famous  grass-barrier  which  at  this  point  ren- 
ders the  navigation  of  the  White  Nile  almost  impossible.  Vast 
masses  of  grass,  papyrus,  and  ambatch  cover  the  whole  stream 
like  a carpet,  which  is  scarcely  more  penetrable  than  an  ice- 
floe. Every  here  and  there,  indeed,  the  force  of  the  current 
may  open  a kind  of  rift,  but  not  corresponding  at  all  with  the 
deeper  and  true  channel  of  the  river.  Such  a rift  is  not  avail- 
able for  any  passage  of  the  boats,  and  as  the  position  of  the 
weedy  mass  is  constantly  shifting,  the  most  experienced  pilots  are 
sometimes  utterly  baffled  in  the  attempt  to  thread  the  labyrinth. 
Six  days  were  spent  by  Schweinfnrth  in  getting  through,  and 
even  then  success  was  achieved  only  by  the  men  getting  out  on 
the  grass-island^  and  pulling  and  shoving  the  boat  over  obsta- 
cles by  main  force.  This  singular  grass-tangle  fills  the  larger 
part  of  the  channel  of  the  Gazelle  all  the  way  up  to  the 
Meshera,  or  landing-place  (Port  Bek),  and  then  fairly  chokes 
it  up,  forming  the  cul-de-sac  which  has  always  formed  the  limit 
of  navigation,  and  which  was  to  be  the  starting-point  of  the 
expedition  into  the  interior. 

Whether  the  Gazelle  or  the  Bahr-cl-Gebel  is  the  main  stream 
of  the  White  Nile  is  still  an  unsolved  problem.  Speke  refers 
to  the  Gazelle  as  “ an  unimportant  stream ; ” but  Schweinfnrth 
accuses  him  of  something  like  deliberate  misrepresentation, 
and  maintains  that  it  has  a claim  in  every  way  as  valid  as  the 
Bahr-el-Gebel.  “ In  truth  it  would  appear  to  stand  in  some 
relation  to  the  Bahr-el-Gebel  as  the  White  Nile  does  to  the 
Blue.”  During  his  subsequent  journeys  he  obtained  evidence, 
that  with  its  various  affluents,  including  the  Bahr-el-Arab  and 
the  Dyoor,  it  traverses  a region  of  not  less  than  150,000  square 
miles,  lie  also  became  convinced  that  the  Bahr-el-Arab  is  the 
main  stream.  If  this  be  so,  the  real  sources  of  the  Nile  are  to 
be  found  far  to  the  west  of  the  regiou  fixed  upon  by  Living- 
stone, Speke,  and  Baker. 


426 


SCJI WEINF  URTR. 


Scliweinfurth  arrived  at  the  Meshcra  on  February  24tli,  and 
a month  later,  in  March  25tli,  a start  was  made  for  the  chief 
seriba  of  Ghattas,  200  miles  distant  in  the  interior.  Several 
smaller  companies  having  joined  Ghattas’s  expedition,  the 
number  of  the  caravan  was  but  little  under  four  hundred.  Of 
these  the  armed  men  alone  amounted  to  nearly  two  hundred, 
and  constituted  a force  which  might  have  crossed  the  largest 
state  in  Central  Africa  unmolested.  Their  course  lay  in  a 
tolerably  straight  S.  S.  W.  direction  across  the  western  district 
of  the  extensive  territory  of  the  unsubdued  Dinka.  The  cara- 
van rested  occasionally  in  the  deserted  villages  and  crowded 
the  empty  cattle-pens  belonging  to  the  natives,  who  made  their 
escape  as  it  advanced.  By  their  continued  cattle-stealing,  the 
Nubians  have  caused  all  the  Dinka  tribes  to  consider  foreign 
interlopers  as  their  bitter  enemies,  aud  the  merchants’  com- 
panies dare  net  pass  through  their  couutry  except  with  an 
adequate  number  of  armed  men. 

Schweinfurtlrs  relations  with  this  strange  pastoral  people 
were,  throughout  the  two  years  which  he  spent  in  the  interior, 
but  rarely  discontinued  ; and  he  regards  them  as  among  the 
foreirost  of  the  native  people.  They  occupy  a wide  extent  of 
territory,  and  are  divided  into  various  tribes,  some  of  which, 
in  regard  to  height  and  bodily  size,  stand  prominent  in  the 
scale  of  the  human  race.  “ Every  idea  and  thought  of  the 
Dinka  is  how  to  acquire  and  maintain  cattle:  a kind  of  rever- 
ence would  seem  to  be  paid  to  them ; even  their  offal  is  con- 
sidered of  high  importance ; the  dung  which  is  burned  to 
ashes  for  sleeping  in  aud  for  smearing  their  persons,  and  the 
urine,  which  is  used  for  washing  and  as  a substitute  for  salt,* 
are  their  daily  requisites.  A cow  is  never  slaughtered,  but 
when  sick  is  separated  from  the  rest,  and  carefully  tended  in 
the  large  huts  built  for  the  purpose.  Only  those  that  die  nat- 
urally or  by  an  accident  are  used  as  food.  Indescribable  is  the 
grief  when  either  death  or  rapine  has  robbed  a Dinka  of  his. 
cattle.  He  is  prepared  to  redeem  their  loss  by  the  heaviest 
sacrifices,  for  they  are  dearer  to  him  than  wife  or  child.  A 
dead  cow  is  not,  however,  wantonly  buried ; the  negro  is  not 
sentimental  enough  for  that ; such  an  occurrence  is  soon  bruited 
abroad,  and  the  neighbors  institute  a carousal  which  is  quite 
an  epoch  in  their  monotonous  life.  The  bereaved  owner  him- 
self is,  however,  too  much  afflicted  at  the  loss  to  touch  a morsel 
of  the  carcass  of  his  departed  beast.  Not  unfrequently  in 
their  sorrow  the  Dinka  remain  for  days  silent  and  abstracted, 
as  though  their  trouble  were  too  heavy  for  them  to  bear.” 


8CH  WEINFURTH. 


427 


Single  eattle-vards  sometimes  hold  as  many  as  10,000  beasts. 
When  asked  what  good  they  get  from  their  possessions  of  oxen, 
they  always  answer  that  it  is  quite  enough  if  they  get  fat  and 
look  nice.  The  other  domestic  animals  kept  by  the  Diuka  are 
6heep  of  a peculiar  breed,  goats,  and  dogs. 

The  Dinka  dwellings  consist  of  small  groups  of  huts  clus- 
tered in  farmsteads  over  the  cultivated  plain  ; villages  in  a 
proper  sense  there  are  none.  As  a rule  tlie  huts  are  spacious, 
and  more  durable  than  those  of  other  tribei  who  build  their 
dwellings  in  the  same  conical  form.  They  are  not  unfre- 
quently  40  feet  in  diameter ; their  foundations  are  composed 
of  a mixture  of  clay  and  chopped  straw,  and  the  supports  of 
the  roof  are  made  of  branches  of  acacia  and  other  hard  woods. 
The  roof  is  contrived  out  of  layers  of  cut  straw.  These  build- 
ings last  eight  or  ten  years,  and  decay  at  length  mainly  through 
being  worm-eaten. 

The  Dinka  women  are  scrupulously  clothed  with  two  aprons 
of  untanned  skin,  which  reach  before  and  behind  from  the 
hips  to  the  ankles,  and  are  trimmed  round  the  edge  with  rows 
of  beads,  small  iron  rings,  and  little  bells.  But  it  is  considered 
effeminate  and  improper  for  a man  to  wear  any  clothing  what- 
ever. A clothed  man  is  contemptuously  called  “ a woman.” 
Men  and  women  alike  pierce  their  ears  in  several  places,  and 
insert  iron  rings  or  brass.  The  women  also  bore  the  upper  lip 
and  fit  in  an  iron  pin,  running  through  a bead.  Tattooing  is 
only  practised  by  the  men,  and  always  consists  of  about  ten 
radiating  strokes  which  traverse  the  forehead  and  temples, 
having  the  base  of  the  nose  for  a centre.  Both  sexes  break  off 
the  lower  incisor  teeth,  a custom  which  they  practise  in  com- 
mon with  the  majority  of  the  natives  of  the  district  of  the 
Bahr-el-Ghazal.  The  men  make  their  hair  straight  by  much 
combing,  and  give  it  a reddish  tinge  by  continued  willing 
with  cow-urine,  or  by  the  application  for  a fortnight  of  a mix- 
ture of  dung  and  ashes.  The  women  wear  their  hair  either 
closely  shaven  or  as  short  a3  possible.  All  alike  wear  a pro- 
fusion of  iron  and  ivory  rings  on  their  ankles  and  wrists,  orna- 
ments of  leather,  and  the  tails  of  cows  and  goats.  In  culinary 
matters  the  Dinka  are  superior  to  either  Nubians,  Arabs,  or 
Egyptians;  and  their  behavior  at  meals  corresponds  with  the 
choiceness  of  their  cookery.  They  eat  separately,  passing  the 
dishes  from  one  to  another  like  Europeans;  and  at  Schwein- 
furth's  table,  they  took  to  knive3  and  forks  as  though  they  had 
been  bred  to  their  use.  They  are  very  particular  too  \n  the 
choice  of  their  animal  food,  and  the  accounts  of  the  cauibaiism 


428 


SCH  WEINFURTE. 


of  the  Niain-Niam  excite  as  much  horror  amongst  them  as 
amongst  ourselves.  They  are  great  smokers,  and  their  smok- 
ing apparatus  is  so  ponderous  that  every  one  is  obliged  to  sit 
down  while  he  smokes.  In  war  they  are  brave  and  daring, 
and  their  independence  of  character  is  such  that  they  have  not 
only  remained  unsubdued  by  the  Khartoomers,  but  are  seldom 
molested  by  the  slave-hunters. 

Ghattas’  chief  seriba,  the  termination  of  the  present  journey, 
was  readied  on  the  30th  of  March.  It  lies  on  the  border-lines 
of  the  three  races,  the  Dinka,  the  Dyoor,  and  the  Bongo ; and 
with  it  are  associated  five  smaller  settlements  in  the  adjoining 
Bongo  country,  and  four  more  in  remoter  spots.  From  an  in- 
significant beginning  it  had,  in  the  course  of  thirteen  years, 
become  of  such  importance  as  a trading-station  that  at  the  time 
of  Schweinfurth’s  visit  it  contained  not  less  than  a thousand  in- 
habitants, including  about  250  armed  men  and  some  hundreds 
of  slaves.  The  actual  seriba,  or  palisaded  enclosure,  was  only 
about  200  paces  square,  and  was  literally  crammed  with  huts. 
Outside  the  enclosure,  the  buildings  were  scattered  over  the 
fields,  and  for  two  miles  round,  the  land  was  partitioned  into 
field;  which  were  tilled  by  the  natives  who  had  settled  in  the 
vicinity.  The  chief  agricultural  productions,  here  and  through- 
out Ceutral  Africa,  are  first  the  sorghum,  which  is  the  staple, 
and  three  other  kinds  of  corn,  the  pencillaria  or  Arabian 
“ doldin,”  the  telaboon,  and  the  African  maize.  There  is  one 
quality  which  pertains  equally  to  all  these  varieties  of  grain 
which  are  grown  in  these  torrid  regions  ; it  is  not  possible  "from 
their  flour  to  make  bread  in  the  way  to  which  we  are  accus- 
tomed. All  that  can  be  made  from  the  fermented  dough  is  the 
Arabian  bread,  “ Kissere,” — tough,  leathery  slices,  cooked  like 
pan-cakes  on  a frying-pan.  If  the  fermentation  has  gone  far 
enough  to  make  the  dough  rise  for  a good,  spongy  loaf,  when 
it  is  put  into  the  oven  it  all  crumbles  up,  and  its  particles  will 
not  hold  together;  if,  on  the  other  hand,  the  fermentation  has 
not  proceeded  sufficiently,  the  result  is  a heavy  lump  which  the 
natives  wrap  up  in  leaves  and  bake  in  the  ashes.  Various  le- 
guminous plants  and  tuberous  vegetables,  such  as  the  yam,  are 
also  cultivated  ; and  last  but  not  least,  tobacco,  which  attains  a 
height  of  about  18  inches  only,  with  leaves  a span  long,  and 
blossoms  invariably  white. 

Schweinfurth  was  expected  at  the  seriba,  and  two  neatly- 
built  huts  of  moderate  size,  within  the  palisade,  had  been  pre- 
pared for  him.  Of  these  he  took  immediate  possession,  and 
they  formed  his  headquarters  for  several  months. 


SCHWEINFURTn ; 


429 


“ My  excursions  about  the  neighborhood  soon  began,  and 
these,  with  the  arrangement  of  my  daily  collections,  occupied 
the  greater  part  of  my  time.  In  unfailing  good  health,  I 
passed  the  first  few  weeks  in  a transport  of  joy,  literally  enrap- 
tured by  the  unrivalled  loveliness  of  nature.  The  early  rains 
had  commenced,  and  were  clothing  all  the  park-like  scenery, 
meadows,  trees,  and  shrubs,  with  the  verdure  of  spring.  Emu- 
lating the  tulips  and  hyacinths  of  our  own  gardens,  sprang  up 
everywhere  splendid  bulbous  plauts  ; whilst  amongst  the  fresh 
foliage  gleamed  blossoms  of  the  gayest  hue.  The  April  rains 
are  not  continuous,  but  nevertheless,  trees  and  underwood  were 
all  in  bloom,  and  the  grass  was  like  a lawn  for  smoothness.  In 
Tropical  Africa,  after  long  continuance  of  rain,  the  grass  may 
be  considered  more  as  a defect  than  as  an  ornament  in  the  land- 
scape : the  obstructions  which  it  interposes  to  the  view  of  the 
traveller  considerably  mar  his  enjoyment  of  the  scenery  ; but 
throughout  the  period  of  the  early  rains  its  growth  is  remarka- 
bly slow,  and  it  takes  some  months  to  attain  a height  sufficient 
to  conceal  the  numerous  flowering  weeds  and  bulbs  which  dis- 
play their  blossoms  at  the  same  season.” 

During  April  and  May  he  made  a variety  of  journeys  to  the 
neighboring  seribas,  in  one  of  which,  lasting  over  three  weeks, 
he  explored  the  Dyoor  River.  This  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant tributaries  of  the  White  Nile  system.  It  rises  in  the  east- 
ern portion  of  the  Niam-Niam  country,  in  lat.  5°  35',  and  its 
main  course,  omitting  the  smaller  windings,  extends  over  350 
miles.  On  these  excursions  he  had  fine  opportunities  of  hunt- 
ing the  game  of  the  country:  buffalo,  giraffes,  antelopes, 
liurtlebeests,  genets,  civets,  zebra-ichneumons,  warthogs,  wild 
pig3,  cats,  lynxes,  servals,  and  caracals.  The  bear-baboon  was 
also  seen. 

At  Geer,  he  for  the  first  time  saw  the  natives  abandoning 
themselves  to  one  of  their  wild  orgies.  “ The  festival  was  held 
to  celebrate  the  sowing  of  the  crops  ; and  confident  in  the  hope 
that  the  coming  season  would  bring  abundant  rains,  the  light- 
hearted Bongo  anticipated  their  harvest.  For  the  preparation 
of  their  beer  they  encroached  very  lavishly  on  their  present 
corn  stores,  quite  indifferent  to  the  fact  that  for  the  next  two 
months  they  would  be  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  grubbing 
after  roots  and  devouring  any  chance  bird  or  even  any  creep- 
ing thing  that  might  come  in  their  way.  Incredible  quantities 
of  “ legyee  ” were  consumed,  so  as  to  raise  the  party  to  the  de- 
gree of  excitement  necessary  for  so  prolonged  a revel.  In 
honor  of  the  occasion  there  was  produced  a long  array  of  musi- 


430 


S CH  WE  IN  FUR  777. 


cal  instruments,  but  the  confusion  of  sound  beggared  the  rag- 
ing of  all  the  elements,  and  made  me  marvel  as  to  what  music 
might  come  to.  They  danced  till  their  bodies  reeked  again 
Avith  the  oil  of  the  butter-tree.  Had  they  been  made  of  india- 
rubber  their  movements  could  scarcely  have  been  more  elastic ; 
indeed,  their  skins  had  all  the  appearance  of  gutta-percha. 
The  whole  scene  was  more  like  a fantoccini  than  any  diversion 
of  living  beings.” 

During  liis  exploration  of  the  Dyoor  River  he  became  famil- 
iar with  the  Dyoor  tribe,  a branch  of  the  Shillooks  apparently, 
though  distinguished  by  a lighter  skin,  who  occupy  a small 
territory,  and  number  only  20,000  souls.  Dyoor  is  a name  as- 
signed by  the  Dinka,  and  is  synonymous  with  men  of  the  woods, 
or  wild  men.  It  is  a term  of  contempt,  and  is  intended  to  im- 
ply the  condition  of  poverty,  in  which,  according  to  Dinka 
ideas,  the  Dyoor  spend  their  existence,  giving  their  sole  atten- 
tion to  agriculture  and  their  few  goats  and  poultry,  and  owning 
no  cattle.  They  speak  of  themselves  as  Lwoli. 

In  spite  of  their  intercourse  with  and  partial  dependence 
upon  the  Dinka,  the  Dyoor  have  not  departed  from  theShillook 
mode  of  decorating  themselves ; though  the  decorations  of  the 
hair  characteristic  of  the  Dinka  and  the  Shillook  alike  are  to- 
tally rejected,  and  both  men  and  women  wear  their  hair  closely 
cropped.  Their  only  clothing  is  a short  covering  of  leather 
which  they  wear  round  the  back  of  their  loins,  something  like 
the  skirts  of  an  ordinary  frock  coat ; a calf-skin  answers  their 

Eurpose  best,  of  which  they  make  two  tails  to  hang  down  be- 
iud.  The  favorite  ornaments  of  the  men  very  much  resemble 
those  of  the  Dinka,  consisting  of  a collection  of  iron  rings  be- 
low the  elbow,  and  a huge  ivory  ring  above  it.  One  decoration 
peculiar  to  themselves  consists  of  heavy  circlets  of  molten 
brass,  very  elaborately  engraved.  The  women,  too,  burden 
their  wrists  and  ankles  with  clusters  of  rings ; and  very  fre- 
quently one  great  iron  ring  is  thrust  through  the  nose,  the  hole 
to  admit  it  being  bored  indifferently  through  the  base,  the 
bridge,  or  the  nostrils.  The  rims  of  the  ears  are  also  pierced 
to  carry  an  indefinite  number  of  rings.  One  of  the  most  ad- 
mired decorations  is  a string  of  iron  beads  or  little  perforated 
cylinders  of  iron. 

The  huts  of  the  Dyoor  are  made  of  wickerwork  either  of 
wood  or  bamboo,  cemented  with  clay,  and  the  roof  is  a simple 
pyramid  of  straw.  Inside  every  hut  there  is  a large  receptacle 
for  storing  whatever  corn  or  other  provision  is  necessary  for  the 
household.  These  are  made  of  wickerwork,  and  have  a shape 


SCnWElNFUIiTH. 


431 


like  great  bottles  ; and  to  protect  them  from  the  rats,  they  are 
most  carefully  overdaubed  with  thick  clay.  They  occupy  a 
very  largo  proportion  of  the  open  space  in  the  interior;  very 
often  they  arc  six  or  seven  feet  high,  and  sometimes  are  made 
from  a compound  of  chopped  stubble  and  mud. 

The  women  do  all  the  work  of  the  fields  as  well  as  the  work 
of  the  house.  The  men  are  very  skilful  iron-workers,  notwith- 
standing the  clumsiness  of  their  instruments ; and  their  prod- 
ucts, in  the  shape  of  spear-heads  or  spades,  answer  all  the  pur- 
poses of  money  throughout  the  whole  district  of  the  Upper 
Nile.  Dr.  Schwcinfurth  estimates  that  in  Africa  iron  has  a 
value  about  equivalent  to  copper  with  us,  whilst  the  worth  of 
copper  corresponds  to  that  of  silver.  The  Dyoor  have  good 
large  families,  and  affection  for  children  and  parents  is  devel- 
oped among  them  more  decidedly  than  in  any  other  Central 
African  tribe. 

After  his  return  to  Ghattas’  seriba,  Schweinfnrth  set  his 
people  to  work  laying  out  a vegetable  garden,  the  larger  part 
of  which  he  planted  with  maize  of  which  the  original  ears 
came  from  New  Jersey.  “ Seventy  days  after  sowing  I reaped 
the  crop,  and  the  ingathering  did  not  simply  answer  my  high- 
est expectations,  but  surpassed  in  quality  the  original  stock.” 
Tobacco  from  Maryland  grew  to  an  immense  height.  The 
next  five  months  he  spent,  in  botanizing,  during  which  he  col- 
lected and  classified  nearly  700  flowering  plants ; and  in  study- 
ing the  habits  of  the  Bongo,  a people,  lie  says,  which,  though 
visibly  on  the  decline,  may  still  by  its  peculiarity  and  striking 
independence  in  nationality,  language,  and  customs,  be  selected 
from  amid  the  circle  of  its  neighbors  as  a genuine  type  of 
African  life. 

The  Bongo  occupy  a territory  about  175  miles  long  by  50 
miles  wide,  Tying  on  the  south-western  boundary  of  the  depres- 
sion of  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  basin.  They  number  about  100, 
000,  and  are  £ finely-formed,  athletic  race,  but  being  of  an  un- 
warlike character  have  been  reduced  to  a state  of  vassalage  by 
the  Khartoomerswho  compelled  them  to  leave  their  homes  and 
settle  near  the  numerous  scribas  established  in  their  country. 
They  furnish  the  larger  number  of  bearers  for  the  ivory  expe- 
dition into  the  remote  interior,  and  by  their  tillage  of  the  soil 
provide  all  the  food  for  the  seribas  except  what  is  obtained  by 
cattle-raids  in  the  land  of  the  Dinka.  Their  compleMon  is 
similar  in  color  to  the  red-brown  soil  on  which  they  reside;  and 
Schwcinfurth  considers  them  members  of  a family  of  reddish- 
hued  races,  distinct  from  the  Dinka,  Dyoor,  Shillook,  etc.,  and 


432 


S cn  WE  INF  UR  TH. 


including  the  Niam-Niam,  Mittoo,  Kredy,  and  others.  Besides 
agriculture,  which  is  their  chief  industry,  and  the  raising  of 
goats,  dogs,  and  poultry,  they  hunt  and  fish,  and  the  men  are 
expert  iron- workers.  With  the  rudest  conceivable  bellows  and 
a hammer  which  is  oftener  than  not  a round  pebble-stone,  an 
anvil  of  gneiss  or  granite,  and  a pair  of  tongs  composed  of  a 
split  stick  of  greenwood,  “ they  contrive  to  fabricate  articles 
which  would  bear  comparison  with  the  productions  of  an  Eng- 
lish smith.”  These  consist  of  spear-heads,  spades,  knives,  etc., 
which  are  used  extensively  as  money.  Hardly  inferior  to  their 
skill  in  the  working  of  iron  is  their  skill  in  wood-carving.  The 
most  striking  specimens  of  their  art  in  this  way,  are  the  four- 
legged  stools  for  women  (the  men  consider  it  effeminate  to  sit 
on  anything  except  the  ground)  which  arc  found  in  every 
household,  and  which  are  invariably  made  from  a single  block. 
Besices  these  are  beautifully  shaped  mortars  and  pestles  for 
bruising  corn,  threshing-flails,  troughs  for  oil-pressing,  spoons, 
and,  most  remarkable  of  all,  wooden  representations  of  the 
human  figure  which  are  placed  round  the  tombs  of  departed 
chieftains,  and  of  any  male  person  who  has  been  murdered. 
The  women  make  excellent  pottery,  and  have  learned  the  art 
of  tanning  from  the  N ubiaus.  The  Bongo  bestow  more  pains 
upon  their  dwellings  than  any  people  in  the  Gazelle  district. 
The  materials  employed  are  upright  tree-stems,  bamboo  canes, 
clay,  and  tough  grass  and  the  bast  of  the  Grewia.  The  dwell- 
ings are  usually  about  20  feet  in  diameter,  with  a door  so  made 
that  t is  necessary  to  creep  through  in  order  to  get  inside  and 
closed  with  a hurdle,  and  a level  clay  floor.  The  bedding  con- 
sists of  skins  only,  and  the  pillow  is  a branch  of  a tree  smoothed 
by  being  stripped  of  its  bark.  The  peak  of  the  roof  is  always 
furnished  with  a circular  pad  of  straw  which  serves  for  a seat, 
and  from  which  a survey  of  the  surrounding  country  may  be 
obtained. 

They  are  disgusting  feeders.  “ With  the  exception  of  human 
flesh  and  the  flesh  of  dogs,  the  Bongo  seem  to  consider  all  ani- 
mal substance  fit  for  eating  in  whatever  condition  it  may  be 
found.  The  putrefying  remnant  of  a lion’s  feast,  which  lies  in 
the  obscurity  of  a forest  and  is  only  revealed  by  the  kites  and 
vultures  circulating  in  the  air  above,  is  to  them  a welcome  dis- 
covery. That  meat  is  ‘ high  ’ is  a guarantee  for  its  being  ten- 
der, and  they  deem  it  in  that  condition  not  only  more  strength- 
ening than  when  it  is  fresh,  but  likewise  more  easy  of  digest- 
ion. Rats,  mice,  snakes,  earth-scorpions,  caterpillars,  carrion- 
vultures,  big  hyaenas,  all  are  to  them  delicious  morsels.  Their 


SCE  WE  IN  FUR  TH. 


433 


country  is  very  prolific  in  mushrooms,  which  they  keep  till  on 
the  verge  of  decay  and  then  dry  and  pound,  using  the  powder 
for  flavoring  their  sauces.  They  are  inveterate  smokers  and 
chewcrs,  compress  the  tobacco  into  cakes  like  our  4 cavendish/ 
and  carry  half-cliewed  quids  behind  their  ears. 

For  clothing  the  men  wear  a skin  or  strip  of  cloth  round  the 
loins ; but  the  women  refuse  to  wear  any  covering  whatever, 
whether  of  skin  or  stuff,  and  replenish  their  wardrobe  every 
morning  with  a bunch  of  grass  or  bough  of  a tree  fastened  to 
the  girdle.  Both  men  and  women  wear  the  hair  closely- 
cropped  or  in  tufts  on  the  top.  The  men  tattoo  themselves ; 
wear  necklaces  of  beads,  wood,  talons  of  owls  and  eagles,  teeth 
of  dogs,  crocodiles,  or  jackals,  little  tortoise-shells,  etc. ; rings 
on  the  wrist  and  upper  part  of  the  arms ; and  some  of  them 
pierce  the  skin  of  the  stomach  above  the  waist  and  insert  a 
wooden  peg.  The  women  attain  an  astounding  girth  of  body  ; 
44  their  thighs  are  very  often  as  large  as  a man’s  chest,  and  their 
measurement  across  the  hips  can  hardly  fail  to  recall  the  pic- 
ture in  Cuvier’s  Atlas  of  the  now  famous  4 Hottentot  Yenns.’  ” 
They  wear  an  accumulation  of  cords  and  beads  round  their 
necks ; masses  of  iron  and  copper  rings  on  their  wrists,  arms, 
and  ankles,  and  in  the  rims  of  their  ears ; and  a round-headed 
copper-nail  or  plate  in  the  lower  lip.  As  soon  as  a woman  is 
married  the  operation  commences  of  extending  her  lower  lip. 
This,  at  first  only  slightly  bored,  is  widened  by  inserting  into 
the  orifice  plugs  of  wood  gradually  increasing  in  size,  until  at 
length  the  entire  feature  is  enlarged  to  five  or  six  times  its  orig- 
inal proportions.  By  this  means  the  lower  lip  is  extended  hor- 
izontal^ till  it  projects  far  beyond  the  upper,  which  :s  also 
fitted  with  a copper  plate  or  nail,  and  now  and  then  by  a little 
ring,  and  sometimes  by  a bit  of  straw  about  as  thick  as  a luci- 
fer-match.  Nor  do  they  leave  the  nose  intact ; similar  hits  of 
straw  are  inserted  into  the  edges  of  the  nostrils,  occasionally 
three  on  either  side.  A very  favorite  ornament  for  the  carti- 
lage between  the  nostrils  is  a copper  ring,  just  like  those  placed 
in  the  noses  of  buffaloes  and  other  beasts  of  burden  for  the 
purpose  of  rendering  them  more  tractable.  The  greatest  co- 
quettes among  the  ladies  wear  a clasp  or  cramp  at  the  corners 
of  the  mouth,  as  though  they  wanted  to  contract  the  orifice, 
and  literally  to  put  a curb  upon  its  capabilities.  Both  sexes 
break  off  the  lower  incisor  teeth. 

Wives  are  purchased,  and  are  limited  to  three  in  number  ; in 
case  of  divorce  the  father  is  compelled  to  restore  a portion  or 
all  of  the  purchase-money.  A laudable  custom  is  one  which 


434 


8CHWEINFURTH. 


forbids  all  children  not  at  the  breast  to  sleep  in  the  same  hut 
with  their  parents.  No  marriage  is  allowed  till  the  youth  is 
18  and  the  girl  15  years  old.  Very  old  people  of  either  sex, 
but  especially  old  women,  are  suspected  of  witchcraft,  and 
put  out  of  the  way.  The  insane  are  shackled,  hand  and  foot, 
and  ducked  in  the  river,  and  if  this  does  not  cure,  are  kept  in 
confinement  by  their  relatives.  Such  people  are  thought  to  be 
bewitched.  Certain  kinds  of  meat  are  prescribed  to  maintain 
the  strength  of  invalids — for  “ general  debility  ” a particular 
value  is  attributed  to  the  flesh  oi:  a bird  (Gullukoo)  which  has 
a detestable  flavor.  The  Bongo  are  very  fond  of  music,  have 
a great  variety  of  instruments,  and  sing  in  chorus.  They  bury 
the  dead  in  a sitting  posture,  the  men  with  the  face  turned  to 
the  north  and  the  women  to  the  south.  They  have  not  the 
faintest  idea  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  but  believe  in 
“ loma  ” (luck),  and  have  an  amazing  fear  of  ghosts  which  they 
believe  to  people  the  shadowy  darkness  of  the  woods.  To  ward 
off  the  evil  influence  of  the  spirits  they  use  magical  roots  in 
which  professional  sorcerers  trade.  Good  spirits  are  quite  un- 
recognized, and,  according  to  the  general  negro  idea,  no  benefit 
can  ever  come  from  a spirit  at  all. 

On  the  17 th  of  November,  the  end  of  the  rainy  season  having 
come,  Schweinfurth  accepted  the  invitation  of  Mohammed 
Aboo  Sammat,  a rival  merchant  of  Ghattas,  to  accompany  him 
on  an  expedition  to  the  Niam-Niam  lands.  He  had  spent  the 
intervening  months  in  botanizing  and  studying  the  habits  and 
language  of  the  people,  no  incident  breaking  the  monotony  of 
his  occupations  except  a midnight  storm  during  which  six  fe- 
male slaves  were  struck  dead  by  lightning  and  his  own  hut 
narrowly  escaped  destruction  in  the  resulting  fire.  He  joined 
Aboo  Sammat’s  caravan  on  the  17th  of  November,  and  went 
with  him  to  his  Seriba,  70  miles  distant,  on  the  borders  of  the 
Niam-Niam  territory. 

This  Aboo  Sammat,  of  whom  Schweinfurth  speaks  as  “ the 
magnanimous  Nubian,”  was  a native  of  Dar-Kenoos,  and  in  his 
way  was  a little  hero.  “ Sword  in  hand  he  had  vanquished  va- 
rious districts  large  enough  to  have  formed  small  states  in  Eu- 
rope. A merchant  full  of  enterprise,  he  avoided  no  danger 
and  was  sparing  neither  of  trouble  nor  of  sacrifice;  in  the 
words  of  the  Horaz,  £ he  explored  the  distant  Indies,  and  com- 
passed sea  and  land  to  escape  poverty.’  Yet  all  the  while  he 
had  the  keeneest  sympathy  with  learning,  and  could  travel 
through  the  remotest  countries  at  the  bidding  of  science  to  see 
the  wonders  of  the  world.”  Farther  along  Dr.  Schweinfurth 


SCnWEINFURTII. 


435 


Bays : “ All  the  museums — particularly  those  which  are  appro- 

priated to  botany — which  have  been  enriched  by  my  journey- 
mgs  are  indebted  to  Aboo  Sammat  for  not  a few  of  their  nov- 
elties. Solely  because  I was  supported  by  him  did  I succeed 
in  pushing  my  way  to  the  Upper  Shary,  more  than  800  miles 
from  Khartoom,  thus  opening  fresh  districts  to  geographical 
knowledge  and  establishing  the  existence  of  some  enigmatical 
people.  Everything,  moreover,  that  he  did  was  suggested  by 
his  own  free  will.  No  compulsion  of  government  was  put  upon 
him,  no  inducements  on  my  part  were  held  out,  and,  what  is 
more,  no  thought  of  compensation  for  his  outlay  on  myself  or 

{>arty  ever  entered  his  mind.  The  purest  benevolence  prompted 
lim — the  high  virtue  of  hospitality  in  its  noblest  sense.”  It 
was  his  generosity  chiefly  which  made  Schweinfurth’s  expe- 
riences in  Africa  so  different  from  those  of  his  predecessors, 
whose  sufferings  and  trials  we  have  hinted  at  in  previous  chap- 
ters. 

They  reached  Sabby,  Aboo  Sammat’s  head  seriba,  on  Nov- 
ember 23d,  after  a march  of  seven  days  through  a beautiful  park- 
like country.  While  preparations  were  making  for  the  expedi- 
tion into  the  Niara-Niam  county,  Schweinfurth  made  a tour  of 
all  the  neighboring  seribas,  and  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
how  the  Khartoom  merchants  settle  their  yokes  upon  newly 
subjected  tribes.  The  people  were  mostly  Bongo,  like  those 
in  G-hattas’  country,  and  a collection  of  tribes  called  collectively 
Mittoo,  and  Aboo  Sammat  had  only  brought  them  into  sub- 
jection during  the  year  previous  to  Schweinfurth’s  visit.  In 
the  scale  of  humanity  the  Mittoo  tribes  are  decidedly  inferior 
to  the  Bongo,  from  whom  they  are  distinguished,  by  a darker 
complexion  and  a less  athletic  bodily  frame.  Their  domestic 
industries  and  their  personal  ornaments  are  very  similar  to 
those  of  the  Bongo,  though  the  women  even  surpass  the  latter 
in  the  mutilation  of  the  Tips.  Not  satisfied  with  piercing  the 
lower  lip,  they  distend  the  upper  one  as  well.  Corcula  plates 
as  large  as  a crown-piece,  made  of  quartz,  ivory,  or  horn,  are 
inserted  into  lips  that  have  been  so  stretched  as  to  lie  in  a posi- 
tion that  is  all  but  horizontal;  and  when  the  women  want  to 
drink  they  have  to  elevate  the  upper  lip  with  their  fingers  and 
pour  the  draught  into  their  mouths.  The  Mittoo  display  a 
remarkable  talent  for  music,  and  construct  a great  variety 
of  instruments.  The  most  important  of  these  is  a lyre  vith  a 
sounding-board,  not  unlike  the  robaba  used  by  the  people  of 
Nubia.  The  flute  is  made  quite  on  the  European  principle 
and  is  expertly  handled.  They  also  sing  in  chorus,  keeping 


436 


scHWEnrFURTn. 


admirable  time.  Like  most  of  the  Central  African  tribes  the 
Mittoo  can  only  count  up  to  ten,  everything  above  that  number 
having  to  be  denominated  by  gestures.  Schweinfurth  saw  an 
amusing  illustration  of  this  when  Aboo  Saramat  was  trying 
to  make  a chief  understand  the  number  of  bearers  he  was  to 
furnish.  “ At  last  some  bundles  of  reeds  were  tied  together 
in  tens,  and  then  the  negro,  although  he  could  not  express  the 
number,  comprehended  perfectly  what  was  required  of  him. 
Kunagera  was  to  furnish  1,530  bearers,  and  being  asked 
whether  he  understood,  made  an  affirmative  gesture,  took  the 


1HTTOO  WOMEN. 


immense  bundle  of  reeds  under  his  arm,  and  walked  off  gravely 
to  his  village.” 

On  the  29th  of  January,  all  things  being  in  readiness  for 
the  long  expedition  to  the  Niam-Niam,  the  caravan  set  out. 
There  were  no  less  than  1,000  bearers  and  soldiers,  the  latter 
numbering  400,  and  substantially  the  whole  day  was  consumed 
in  getting  started,  only  a few  miles  being  made  before  it  was 
time  to  encamp.  The  line  of  march  was  nearly  due  south 
through  a pleasant,  park-like  country,  well-watered  by  numer- 
ous small  streams ; and  on  the  fourth  day  the  territory  of  the 
first  Niam-Niam  chief,  Nganye,  was  entered.  At  first  the 


sen  WEINFURTH 


437 


natives  with  their  wives  and  children,  their  dogs  and  poultry, 
their  guitars,  their  baskets,  their  pots  and  pans,  and  all  their 
household  articles,  made  off  to  the  thickest  parts  of  the  steppes, 
their  hiding-places  being  often  betrayed,  however,  by  the 
cackling  of  their  fowls ; out  from  Nganye,  who  was  on  very 
friendly  terms  with  Aboo  Sammat,  they  received  a warm 
welcome  and  liberal  entertainment.  Here  Schweinfurth  had 
the  first  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Niam-Niam  in  the  reality  of 
their  natural  life,  and  his  interest  in  them  was  in  proportion  to 
their  importance  as  the  leading  race  of  Central  Africa.  They 
arc  tall,  well-proportioned,  intelligent,  warlike,  and  impatient 
of  restraint  even  by  their  chiefs,  whose  power  is  strictly 
limited,  though  they  are  entitled  to  a percentage  on  all  the 
ivory  taken  and  to  half  the  meat  of  all  elephants  killed.  As 
became  a people  with  whom  hunting  is  the  chief  pursuit,  the 
Niam-Niam  were  girded  with  skins.  High  upon  their  elabo- 
rately dressed  hair  they  wore  straw  hats  covered  with  feathers 
and  cowries,  and  fastened  on  with  long  bodkins  of  iron  or 
copper.  Their  chocolate-colored  skin  is  painted  in  stripes, 
like  those  of  a tiger ; and  their  bearing  is  almost  chivalrous, 
“exhibiting  a very  strong  contrast  to  the  unpolished  noncha- 
lance of  the  Bongo,  the  Mittoo,  and  even  the  finicking  Arabs.” 
The  women  are  much  more  reserved  and  shy  than  with  the 
Bongo  or  Mittoo ; they  scarcely  look  at  a stranger,  and  will  go 
far  out  of  their  way  to  avoid  meeting  him.  And  it  is  one  of 
the  fine  traits  of  the  Niam-Niam  that  they  display  an  unpre- 
cedented affection  for  their  wives.  A husband  will  spare  no 
sacrifice  to  redeem  an  imprisoned  wife,  and  the  Nubians  turn 
this  to  profitable  account  in  the  ivory-trade.  They  are  proud 
of  large  families,  and  punish  adultery  with  death.  Their 
country  is  marvellously  productive,  and  game  abounds;  but 
they  are  cannibals,  eating  their  prisoners,  and  even  their  own 
kin  on  an  emergency.  Their  war  cry  is  “ Meat ! Meat ! ” and 
is  well  adapted  to  strike  terror  into  their  foes.  They  drink 
enormous  quantities  of  beer,  made  from  a cereal  known  as 
“ raggi  ” in  India.  They  are  skilful  iron-workers,  wood -carvers, 
basket-makers,  and  potters.  They  are  extremely  fond  of  music, 
and  have  wandering  minstrels  who  play  on  a kind  of  guitar 
and  accompany  it  with  an  improvised  song.  Their  met.  lod  of 
salutation,  like  most  other  Central  African  tribes,  is  by  hand- 
shaking— the  hand  being  grasped  in  such  a way  as  to  make  the 
joints  of  the  two  middle  fingers  crack.  Their  language  con- 
tains no  equivalent  for  God  or  prayer,  and  they  have  no  relig- 
ion; but  there  is  a general  belief  in  magic.  Nothing  can 


438 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


shake  their  conviction  that  the  possession  of  certain  charmed 
roots  contributes  to  success  in  the  chase,  so  that  the  best  shots, 
when  they  have  killed  an  immense  amount  of  game,  are 
credited  with  having  such  roots  in  their  keeping.  Ivory  is  the 
commodity  which  they  use  in  trade  with  the  Khartoomers,  and 
their  principal  method  of  securing  it  is  to  set  fire  to  the  long 
grass  which  covers  the  steppes,  well  knowing  that  the  elephants 
cannot  escape.  A war  of  annihilation  is  this,  in  which  neither 
male  nor  female,  old  nor  young,  can  escape  destruction  ; and 
Dr.  Schweinfurth  may  well  repine  that  this  noble  animal  is 
put  to  such  indiscriminate  slaughter  for  no  other  reason  than 
that  we  may  have  ivory  billiard-balls,  piano-forte  keys,  and  other 
unimportant  items  of  luxury. 

Schweinfurth  visited  Nganye  next  day,  and  though  the  chief 
himself  manifested  little  curiosity,  the  Niam-Niam  people 
here  and  everywhere  throughout  his  journey  exhibited  the 
keenest  interest.  “Their  curiosity  seemed  to  be  insatiable, 
and  they  never  wearied  in  their  inquiries  as  to  my  origin.  To 
their  mind  the  mystery  was  as  to  where  I could  have  come 
from ; my  hair  was  the  greatest  of  enigmas  to  them  ; it  gave  me 
a supernatural  look,  and  accordingly  they  asked  whether  I had 
dropped  from  the  clouds  or  was  a visitor  from  the  moon,  and 
could  not  believe  that  anything  like  me  had  been  seen  before.” 
When  the  people  came  to  visit  him,  as  they  constantly  did,  he 
had  to  provide  for  their  entertainment,  “ and  in  this  respect,” 
he  says,  “ I was  greatly  assisted  by  my  matches,  as  the  marvel 
of  my  being  able  to  produce  fire  at  my  pleasure  was  an  inex- 
haustible source  of  interest.  If  ever  1 handed  over  a lucifer 
and  let  them  light  it  themselves,  their  rapture  surpassed  all 
bounds ; they  never  failed  to  consider  that  the  power  of  pro- 
ducing flames  resided  in  me,  but  their  astonishment  was  very 
greatly  increased  when  they  discovered  that  the  faculty  could 
be  extended  to  themselves.  Giving  the  white  man  credit  for 
being  able  to  procure  fire  or  rain  at  his  own  free  will,  they 
looked  upon  the  performances  as  miracles  unparalleled  since  the 
dawn  of  creation.” 

After  a stay  of  one  day  at  Nganye’s  abode,  the  caravan 
moved  on  its  way  southward,  Aboo  Sammat’s  intention  now 
being  to  go  entirely  across  the  Niam-Niam  country  to  the 
lands  of  the  Monbuttoo,  with  whose  king,  Munza,  he  was 
acquainted.  The  region  through  which  they  passed  day  after 
day  was  beautiful  in  the  extreme  and  very  fertile,  and  on  every 
side  were  indications  of  a numerous  and  industrious  population. 
Everything  testified  to  the  fruitfulness  of  the  soil.  Sweet 


SCI1 WEINFURTH. 


439 


potatoes,  yams,  and  manioc  were  piled  np  in  heaps,  and  the 
hungry  bearers  fell  upon  them  as  though  they  were  in  a hostile 
country,  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  every  encampment  re- 
sembling a scene  of  rapine  and  plunder. 

The  arrangements  of  the  Niam-Niam  huts  are  much  the 
same  throughout  the  land.  Two,  or  at  most  three,  families 
reside  close  together.  Generally  from  eight  to  twelve  huts  are 
clustered  round  one  common  open  space,  which  is  kept  per- 
fectly clean,  and  in  the  centre  of  which  is  reared  a post  upon 
which  the  trophies  of  the  chase  are  hung.  Skulls  of  the  rarest 
kind,  splendid  horns  of  antelopes  and  buffaloes,  are  attached  to 
this  standard,  and,  it  must  be  added,  skulls  of  men  and  withered 
hands  and  feet!  Close  in  the  rear  of  the  huts,  upon  the  level 
ground,  were  the  magazines  for  corn  ; behind  these  would  be 
seen  a circle  of  rokko  fig-trees,  the  bark  of  which  is  used  for 
clothing.  Farther  in  the  background  might  be  noticed  a per- 
fect enclosure  of  paradise-figs;  then  in  wider  circumference 
the  plantations  of  manioc  and  maize ; and,  lastly,  the  outlying 
fields  of  eleusine,  extending  to  the  compound  next  beyond. 

To  the  above-mentioned  practice  of  hanging  their  trophies 
on  posts  near  their  huts,  Schweinfurth  was  indebted  for  many 
additions  to  his  osteological  collection.  And  at  Diamvonoo,  in 
securing  some  skulls  of  the  chimpanzee  (which  are  killed  in  great 
numbers  in  the  .neighborhood),  lie  came  upon  convincing  proof 
of  the  cannibalism  of  the  natives.  Close  to  the  huts,  amongst 
the  piles  of  refuse,  were  human  bones,  which  bore  unmistaka- 
ble evidence  of  having  been  subjected  to  the  hatchet  or  the 
knife ; and  all  around  upon  the  branches  of  the  neighboring 
trees  were  hanging  human  feet  and  hands  more  than  half  shriv- 
elled into  a skeleton  condition,  but  being  as  yet  only  partially 
dry,  they  polluted  the  atmosphere  with  a revolting  and  intolera- 
ble stench. 

On  the  6th  of  February  they  crossed  the  river  Sway,  which 
Schweinfurth  was  the  first  to  identify  as  the  upper  course  of 
the  Dyoor;  and  on  March  2d,  after  having  crossed  numerous 
streams  whose  apparently  eccentric  direction  puzzled  h'm,  he 
made  the  startling  discovery  that  he  was  on  the  water-sled  of 
the  Nile , the  first  European  coming  from  the  north  that  had 
ever  yet  traversed  it.  In  March  20th,  after  a journey  that  had 
lasted  nearly  two  months,  the  latter  part  of  the  time  through 
the  hostile  district  of  the  chief  Wando,  they  reached  the  river 
Welle  on  the  southern  boundary  of  the  Niam-Niam  country. 
As  he  had  expected,  Schweinfurth  found  that  this  rivei  flows 
west ; and  he  adduces  nearly  conclusive  reasons  for  regarding  it 


440 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


as  the  upper  course  of  the  Sliary,  which  flows  into  Lake  Tsad. 
It  rises  in  the  mountains,  jnst  west  of  the  Albert  Nyanza. 

The  Welle  was  crossed  in  Monbuttoo  boats,  and  next  day  the 
caravan  entered  Munza’s  capital,  truly  in  “ the  heart  of 
Africa.” 

6i  Nothing  could  be  more  charming  than  that  last  day’s  march 
which  brought  us  to  the  limits  of  our  wanderings.  The  12 
miles  which  led  to  Muuza’s  palace  were  miles  enriched  by 
such  beauty  as  might  be  worthy  of  paradise.  They  left  an  im- 
pression upon  my  memory  that  can  never  fade.  The  plautain- 
groves  harmonized  so  perfectly  with  the  clustering  oil-palms 
that  nothing  could  surpass  the  perfection  of  the  scene  ; whilst 
the  ferns  that  adorned  the  countless  stems  in  the  background  of 
the  landscape  enhanced  the  charms  of  the  tropical  groves.  A 
fresh  and  invigorating  atmosphere  contributed  to  the  enjoy- 
ment of  it  all,  refreshing  water  and  grateful  shade  being  never 
far  away.  In  front  of  the  native  dwellings  towered  the  splen- 
did figs,  of  which  the  spreading  crowns  defied  the  passage  of 
the  burning  sun.  Anon  we  passed  amidst  jungles  of  Kaphia, 
alongside  brooks  crammed  full  of  reeds,  or  through  galleries 
where  the  Pandanus  thrived,  the  road  taking  us  up-hill  and 
down-hill  in  alternate  undulation.  On  either  hand  there  was 
an  almost  unbroken  series  of  the  idyllic  homes  of  the  people, 
who  hurried  to  their  gates,  and  offered  us  the  choicest  products 
of  their  happy  clime.  . . . 

“ And  then,  at  last,  conspicuous  amidst  the  massy  depths  of 
green  we  espied  the  palace  of  the  king.  We  had  reached  a 
broad  valley,  circled  by  plantations,  and  shaded  by  some  gigan- 
tic trees  which  had  survived  the  decay  of  the  ancient  wilder- 
ness ; through  the  lowest  part  meandered  a transparent  brook. 
We  did  not  descend  into  the  hollow,  but  halting  on  the  hither 
side,  we  chose  a station  clear  of  trees,  and  proceeded  without 
delay  to  fix  our  camp.  We  enjoyed  a view  in  front  of  a slop- 
ing area,  void  of  grass,  enlivened  with  an  endless  multiplicity  of 
huts,  of  which  the  roofs  of  some  were  like  ordinary  sheds,  and 
those  of  others  of  a conical  form  ; but  there,  surmounting  all, 
with  extensive  courts  broad  and  imposing,  unlike  anything  we 
had  seen  since  we  left  the  edifices  of  Cairo,  upreared  itself  the 
spacious  pile  of  King  Munza’s  dwelling.” 

In  less  than  an  hour  the  encampment  was  reared,  and 
Schweinfurth  was  once  more  at  rest  in  a hospitable  seriba. 

Aboo  Sammat  was  on  intimate  terms  with  King  Munza — 
the  two  had  mutually  pledged  their  friendship  in  their  blood 
and  called  each  other  by  the  name  of  brother — and  immedi- 


SCHWE1NFURTH.  441 

fttely  paid  the  king  a long  visit;  but  Sckweinfurth  was  not 
introduced  till  next  day. 

“ The  22d  of  March,  1870,  was  the  memorable  date  on  which 
my  introduction  to  the  king  occurred.  On  leaving  my  tent, 
my  attention  was  immediately  attracted  to  the  opposite  slopes, 
and  a glance  at  the  wide  space  between  the  king’s  palace  and 
the  houses  of  his  retinue  was  sufficient  to  assure  me  that  un- 
usual animation  prevailed.  Crowds  of  swarthy  negroes  were 
surging  along  in  groups,  and  ever  and  anon  the  wild  tones  of 
the  kettle-drum  could  be  heard  even  where  I was  standing. 
Somewhat  impatiently  I stood  awaiting  my  summons  to  the 
king,  but  it  was  already  noon  before  1 was  informed  that  all 
arrangements  were  complete,  and  that  I was  at  liberty  to  start. 
Aloo  Sammat’s  black  body-guard  was  sent  to  escort  me,  and 
his  trumpeters  had  orders  to  usher  me  into  the  royal  presence 
with  a flourish  of  the  Turkish  reveille.  For  the  occasion  I had 
donned  my  solemn  suit  of  black.  With  all  the  solemnity  I 
could,  I marched  along ; three  black  squires  bore  my  rifles  and 
revolvers,  followed  by  a fourth  with  my  inevitable  cane-chair. 
Next  in  order,  aud  in  awe-struck  silence,  came  my  Nubian 
servants,  clad  in  festive  garments  of  unspotted  whiteness,  and 
bearing  in  their  hand  the  offerings  that  had  been  so  long  and 
carefully  reserved  for  his  Mon buttoo  majesty.  . . . As  we  ap- 
proached the  huts,  the  drums  and  trumpets  were  sounded  to  their 
fullest  powers,  and  the  crowds  of  people  pressing  forward  on 
either  hand  left  but  a narrow  passage  for  our  procession.  We 
bent  our  steps  to  one  of  the  largest  huts,  which  formed  a kind 
of  palatial  hall  open  like  a shed  at  both  ends.  Waiting  my 
arrival  here  was  one  of  the  officers  of  state,  who  acted  as  master 
of  ceremonies.  This  official  took  me  by  the  right  hand,  and, 
without  a word,  conducted  me  to  the  interior  of  tlie  hall.  Here, 
like  the  audience  at  a concert,  wTere  arranged  according  to 
their  rank  hundreds  of  nobles  and  courtiers,  each  occupying 
his  own  ornamental  bench  and  decked  out  with  all  his  war 
equipment.  At  the  other  end  of  the  building  a space  was  left 
for  the  royal  throne,  which  differed  in  no  respect  from  the  other 
benches,  except  that  it  stood  upon  an  outspread  mat ; behind 
this  bench  was  placed  a large  support  of  singular  construction, 
resting  as  it  seemed  upon  three  legs,  and  furnished  with  pro- 
jections that  served  as  props  for  the  back  and  arms  of  t'ie  sit- 
ter ; this  support  was  thickly  studded  with  copper  rings  and 
nails.  I requested  that  my  own  chair  might  be  placed  a few 
paces  from  the  royal  bench,  and  there  I took  my  position,  with 


442 


SGH  WEINFURTH. 


my  people  standing  or  squatting  behind  me,  and  the  Nubian 
soldiers  forming  a guard  around.” 

For  more  than  an  hour,  Scliweinfurth  had  to  sit  in  expec- 
tation before  the  vacant  throne.  Munza  was  in  his  private 
apartment  undergoing  a process  of  anointing,  frizzling,  and 
bedizening  at  the  hands  of  his  wives,  in  order  that  he  might 
appear  before  the  stranger  in  all  the  imposing  splendor  of  his 
state  attire.  In  the  interval  of  waiting  there  was  a continual 
uproar.  The  fitful  beating  of  the  kettle-drums  and  the  per- 
petual braying  of  the  horns  resounded  through  the  airy  build- 
ing till  it  shook  again,  and  mingling  with  the  boisterous  strains 
rose  the  voices  of  the  assembled  courtiers  as  they  whiled  away 
the  time  in  loud  and  eager  conversation,  of  which  Scliweinfurth 
was  apparently  the  main  topic. 

“ The  hall  itself  was  the  chief  object  that  attracted  my  atten- 
tion. It  was  at  least  a hundred  feet  in  length,  fifty  feet  high, 
and  fifty  wide.  It  had  been  quite  recently  completed,  and  the 
fresh,  bright  look  of  the  materials  gave  it  an  enlivening  aspect, 
the  natural  brown  polish  of  the  wood- work  looking  as  though 
it  were  gleaming  with  the  lustre  of  new  varnish.  Close  by 
was  a second  and  still  more  spacious  hall  which  in  height  was 
only  surpassed  by  the  loftiest  of  the  surrounding  oil-palms ; but 
this,  although  it  had  only  been  erected  five  years  previously, 
had  already  begun  to  show  symptoms  of  decay,  and  being  en- 
closed on  all  sides  was  dark,  and  therefore  less  adapted  for  a 
public  spectacle.  Considering  the  part  of  Africa  in  which  these 
halls  were  found,  one  might  truly  be  justified  in  calling  them 
wonders  of  the  world ; I hardly  know,  with  all  our  building 
resources,  what  material  we  could  have  employed,  except  it  were 
whalebone,  of  sufficient  lightness  and  durability  to  erect  struc- 
tures like  these  royal  halls  of  Munza,  capable  of  withstanding 
the  tropical  storms  and  hurricanes.  The  bold  arch  of  the 
vaulted  roof  was  supported  on  three  long  rows  of  pillars  formed 
from  perfectly  straight  tree- stems ; the  countless  spars  and 
rafters  as  well  as  the  other  parts  of  the  building  being  com- 
posed entirely  of  the  leafy  stalks  of  the  wine-palm.  The  floor 
was  covered  with  a dark  red-clay  plaster,  as  firm  and  smooth  as 
asphalt.  The  sides  were  enclosed  by  a low  breastwork,  and 
the  space  between  this  and  the  arching  roof,  which  at  the  sides 
sloped  nearly  to  the  ground,  allowed  light  and  air  to  pass  into 
the  building.  Outside,  against  the  breastwork,  stood  crowds 
of  natives  who  were  unable  to  obtain  places  within,  and  con- 
tented themselves  with  eagerly  gazing  through  this  opening  at 
the  proceedings.  Officials  with  long  sticks  went  their  rounds 


KING  MUNZA  IN  PULL  DRESS. 


SCH  WE1NFURTH. 


443 


and  kept  order  among  the  mob,  making  free  use  of  tlieir  sticks 
whenever  it  was  necessary ; all  boys  who  ventured  uninvited 
into  the  hall  being  beaten  back  as  trespassers.” 

At  length  there  was  a running  to  and  fro  of  heralds,  mar- 
shals, and  police.  The  thronging  masses  flock  toward  the  en- 
trance, and  silence  is  proclaimed.  The  king  is  close  at  hand. 
“ Then  come  the  trumpeters  flourishing  away  on  their  huge 
ivory  horns  ; then  the  ringers  swinging  their  cumbrous  bells ; 
and  now,  with  a long,  iirm  stride,  looking  neither  to  the  right, 
nor  to  the  left,  wild,  romantic,  picturesque  alike  in  mien  and 
attire,  comes  the  tawny  Caesar  himself  ! He  was  followed  by 
fifty  of  his  favorite  wives.  Without  vouchsafing  me  a glance, 
he  flung  himself  upon  his  unpretending  chair  of  state,  and  sat 
with  his  eyes  fixed  upon  his  feet.  ...  I could  now  feast  my 
eyes  upon  the  fantastic  figure  of  the  ruler.  I was  intensely 
interested  in  gazing  upon  the  sovereign  of  whom  it  was  com- 
monly reported  that  his  daily  food  was  human  flesh.  With 
arms  and  legs,  neck  and  breast,  all  bedizened  with  copper  rings, 
chains,  and  other  strange  devices,  and  with  a great  copper  cres- 
cent at  the  top  of  his  head,  the  potentate  gleamed  with  a shim- 
mer that  was  to  our  ideas  unworthy  of  royalty,  but  savored  too 
much  of  the  magazines  of  civic  opulence,  reminding  one  almost 
unavoidably  of  a well-kept  kitchen  ! His  appearance,  however, 
was  decidedly  marked  with  his  nationality,  for  every  adorn- 
ment that  he  had  about  him  belonged  exclusively  to  Central 
Africa,  as  none  but  the  fabrications  of  his  native  land  are 
deemed  worthy  of  adorning  the  person  of  a king  of  the  Mon- 
buttoo.  Agreeably  to  the  national  fashion,  a plumed  hat  rested 
on  the  top  of  his  chignon,  and  soared  a foot  and  a half  above 
his  head ; this  hat  was  a narrow  cylinder  of  closely  plaited 
reeds;  it  was  ornamented  with  three  layers  of  red  parrots’ 
feathers,  and  crowned  with  a plume  of  the  same;  there  was 
no  brim,  but  the  copper  crescent  projected  from  the  front  like 
the  vizor  of  a Norman  helmet.  The  muscles  of  Munza’s  ears 
were  pierced,  and  copper  bars  as  thick  as  the  finger  insei  ted  in 
the  cavities.  The  entire  body  was  smeared  with  the  native 
unguent  of  powdered  cam-wood,  which  converted  the  original 
bright  brown  tint  of  the  skin  into  the  color  that  is  so  conspic- 
uous on  ancient  Pompeian  halls.  With  the  exception  of  being 
of  an  unusually  fine  texture,  his  single  garment  differed  in  no 
respect  from  what  was  worn  throughout  the  country ; it  con- 
sisted of  a large  piece  of  fig-bark  impregnated  with  the  same 
dye  that  served  as  his  cosmetic,  and  this,  falling  in  graceful 
folds  about  his  body,  formed  breeches  and  waistcoat  all  ;u  one. 


444 


SGHWE1NFURTE. 


Hound  thongs  of  buffalo-hide,  with  heavy  copper  balls  attached 
to  the  ends,  were  fastened  round  the  waist  in  a huge  knot,  and 
like  a girdle  held  the  coat,  which  was  neatly  hemmed.  . . . 
Around  the  king’s  neck  hung  a copper  ornament  made  in  little 
points  which  radiated  like  beams  all  over  his  chest;  on  his  bare 
arms  were  strange-looking  pendants  which  in  shape  could  only 
be  compared  to  drum-sticks  with  rings  at  the  end.  Half-way  up 
the  lower  part  of  the  arms  and  just  below  the  knee  were  three 
bright,  horny-looking  circlets  cut  out  of  hippopotamus-hide, 
likewise  tipped  with  copper.  As  a symbol  of  his  dignity  Mun- 
za  wielded  in  his  right  hand  the  sickle-shaped  Monbuttoo 
scimetar,  in  this  case  only  an  ornamental  weapon,  and  made  of 
pure  copper.” 

Munza  was  a man  about  40  years  of  age,  of  a fair  height, 
of  a slim  but  powerful  build,  and,  like  the  rest  of  his  country- 
men, stiff  and  erect  in  figure.  His  features  were  far  from  pre- 
possessing, but  had  a Nero-like  expression  that  told  of  cruelty, 
ennui , and  satiety.  As  soon  as  he  had  taken  his  seat,  two  little 
tables,  beautifully  carved,  were  placed  on  either  side  of  the 
throne,  and  on  these  stood  the  dainties  of  which  he  continually 
partook,  but  which  were  carefully  concealed  by  napkins  of  fig- 
bark  : in  addition  to  these  tables,  some  really  artistic  flasks  of 
porous  clay  were  brought  in  full  of  drinking-water.  A con- 
siderable time  elapsed  before  the  king  looked  directly  at  the 
pale-faced  man  with  the  long  hair  and  the  tight  black  clothes, 
who  now  for  the  first  time  appeared  before  him.  The  wild 
uproar  of  the  courtiers  still  continued,  and  Munza,  sitting  in  a 
careless  attitude,  only  raised  his  eyes  now  and  then  from  their 
fixed  stare  upon  the  ground  as  though  to  scan  the  whole  as- 
semblage, but  in  reality  to  take  stray  glances  at  the  stranger’s 
person,  and  in  this  way,  little  by  little,  he  satisfied  his  curios- 
ity. “ I could  not  help  marvelling  at  the  composure  of  this 
wild  African,  and  wondering  where  in  the  world  he  could  have 
learned  his  dignity  and  self-possession.”  At  length  the  mon- 
arch began  to  ask  some  questions ; but  as  every  sentence  had 
to  be  translated  into  the  Zandey  dialect  and  then  into  Arabic, 
the  conversation  was  necessarily  brief  and  commonplace.  At 
the  close,  Scliweinfurth’s  servants  brought  forth  the  presents  he 
had  brought  and  laid  them  at  the  king’s  feet.  Munza  regarded 
them  with  great  attention,  but  without  committing  himself  to 
any  audible  expression  of  approval ; but  his  fifty  wives,  who  were 
seated  on  stools  arranged  behind  his  throne,  gave  vent  to  shouts 
of  delight  as  a double  mirror,  which  both  magnified  and  reduced 
what  it  reflected,  was  passed  admiringly  from  hand  to  hand. 


SCHWE1NFURTU. 


445 


“The  performances  that  had  been  prepared  for  our  entertain- 
ment now  commenced.  First  of  all  a couple  of  horn-blowers 
stepped  forward,  and  proceeded  to  execute  solos  upon  their  in- 
struments. These  men  were  advanced  proficients  in  their  art, 
and  brough  forth  sounds  of  such  power,  compass,  and  flexibil- 
ity that  they  could  be  modulated  from  sounds  like  the  roar  of 
a hungry  lion,  or  the  trumpeting  of  an  infuriated  elephant, 
down  to  tones  which  might  be  compared  to  the  sighing  of  the 
breeze  or  to  a lover’s  whisper.  . . . Next  appeared  a number 
of  professional  singers  and  jesters,  and  amongst  them  a little 
plump  fellow,  who  acted  the  part  of  a pantomime  clown,  and 
jumped  about  and  turned  somersaults  till  his  limbs  looked  like 
the  arms  of  a windmill ; he  was  covered  from  head  to  foot 
with  bushy  tufts  and  pigtails,  and  altogether  his  appearance 
was  so  excessively  ludicrous  that,  to  the  inward  delight  of  the 
king,  I burst  into  a hearty  tit  of  laughter.  . . . Ilis  jokes  and 
pranks  seemed  never-ending,  and  he  was  permitted  to  take  lib- 
erties with  every  one,  not  even  excepting  Munza  himself.  . . . 
The  next  episode  consisted  of  the  performances  of  a eunuch, 
who  formed  a butt  for  the  wit  of  the  spectators.  How  Munza 
had  come  into  possession  of  this  creature  no  one  seemed  to 
know,  and  I could  only  learn  that  lie  was  employed  in  the 
inner  parts  of  the  palace.  . . . But  the  most  important  part 
of  the  programme  was  reserved  for  the  end : Munza  was  to 
make  an  oration.  Whilst  all  the  audience  remained  quietly 
seated  on  their  stools  and  benches,  up  jumped  the  king,  loosened 
his  coat.,  cleared  his  throat,  and  commenced  his  harangue. 
Of  course  I could  not  understand  a single  word ; but  from 
what  I could  see  and  hear,  it  was  evident  that  Munza  endeav- 
ored to  be  choice  and  emphatic  in  his  language,  as  not  only 
did  he  often  correct  himself,  but  he  made  pauses  after  the  sen- 
tences that  he  intended  to  be  impressive,  to  allow  for  the  ap- 
plause of  his  auditors.  Then  the  shout  of  4 Ee,  ee,  tchuppy, 
tchuppy,  ee,  Munza,  ee’  resounded  from  every  throat,  and  the 
musical  instruments  caught  up  the  strain  until  the  uproar  was 
truly  demoniacal.  . . . The  kettle-drums  and  horns  now 
struck  up  a livelier  and  more  rhythmical  strain,  and  Munza  as- 
sumed a new  character  and  proceeded  to  beat  time  with  all  the 
solemnity  of  a conductor.  IBs  baton  was  something  like  a 
baby’s  rattle,  and  consisted  of  a hollow  sphere  of  basket-work 
filled  with  pebbles  and  shells,  and  attached  to  a stick.”  When 
the  music  ceased,  Schweinfurth  took  his  leave  just  as  Munza 
had  commenced  a new  oration. 

On  a subsequent  occasion  he  was  present  at  an  entertain- 


446 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


ment  in  celebration  of  a victory  which  one  of  Munza’s  cap- 
tains had  obtained  over  a neighboring  tribe  ; and  we  reproduce 
his  account  here  to  complete  the  picture  of  the  barbaric 
splendor  of  this  Central  African  court : — “ The  early  part  of  the 
day  was  cold  and  rainy ; but  quite  betimes,  the  shouts  and 
cheers  that  rang  around  the  camp  told  us  that  the  rejoicing 
had  already  begun.  Towards  mid-day,  news  was  brought  that 
the  excitement  was  reaching  its  climax,  and  that  the  King 
himself  was  dancing  in  the  presence  of  his  numerous  wives 
and  courtiers.  Putting  on  a long  black  frock-coat  as  the  most 
appropriate  costume  for  the  occasion,  I bent  my  steps  to  the 
noble  saloon,  which  resounded  again  with  the  ringing  echoes 
of  uproarious  cheers  and  clanging  music.  The  scene  that 
awaited  me  was  unique.  Within  the  hall  there  was  a spa- 
cious square  left  free,  around  which  the  fifty  royal  wives  were 
seated,  in  a single  row  on  their  little  stools,  having  painted 
themselves  in  honor  of  the  occasion  with  the  most  elaborate 
care  ; they  were  applauding  most  vigorously,  clapping  their 
hands  with  all  their  might.  Behind  the  women  stood  an  array 
of  warriors  in  full  accoutrement,  and  their  lines  of  lances  were 
a frontier  of  defence.  Every  musical  accompaniment  to  which 
the  resources  of  the  court  could  reach  had  all  been  summoned, 
and  there  was  a melee  of  gongs  and  kettle-drums,  timbrels  and 
trumpets,  horns  and  bells.  Dancing  there  in  the  midst  of  all, 
a wondrous  sight,  was  the  King  himself.  . . . His  dancing 
was  furious.  His  arms  dashed  themselves  furiously  in  every 
direction,  though  always  marking  the  time  of  the  music; 
whilst  his  legs  exhibited  all  the  contortion  of  an  acrobat’s, 
being  at  one  moment  stretched  out  horizontally  to  the  ground, 
and  at  the  next  pointed  upwards  and  elevated  in  the  air.  The 
music  ran  on  in  a wild  and  monotonous  strain,  and  the  women 
raised  their  hands  and  clapped  together  their  open  palms  to 
mark  the  time.  For  what  length  of  time  this  dance  had  been 
going  on  I did  not  quite  understand ; I only  know  that  I found 
Munza  raving  in  the  hall  with  all  the  mad  excitement  of  the 
most  infatuated  dervish  that  had  ever  been  seen  in  Cairo. 
Moment  after  moment  it  seemed  as  if  the  enthusiast  must 
stagger,  and,  foaming  at  the  mouth,  fall  down  in  a fit  of 
epilepsy ; but  nervous  energy  seems  greater  in  Central  Africa 
than  among  the  4 hashishit  ’ of  the  north  : a slight  pause  at  the 
end  of  half  an  hour,  and  all  his  strength  revived  ; once  again 
would  commence  the  dance,  and  continue  unslackened  and 
unwearied.”  An  end  was  finally  put  to  it  by  the  sudden 
coming  on  of  a tropical  storm. 


8VH  WE1NF  URTH. 


447 


Scliwcinfiirth  began  immediately,  with  his  customary  ar- 
dor, the  study  of  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  Monbut- 
too,  measuring  their  bodies,  watching  their  daily  life,  and 
buying  specimens  of  their  weapons,  handicraft,  ornaments, 
tools,  etc.,  not  excepting  the  human  skulls  that  remained  over 
from  their  meals.  And  if  he  felt  an  interest  in  them,  their 
curiosity  about  him  was  not  less  eager.  Day  after  day  crowds 
besieged  his  tent,  of  whom  many  brought  their  benches,  and 
ranged  them  in  rows  before  the  opening,  watching  in  silent 
eagerness  his  every  movement.  At  length  he  was  obliged  to 
encircle  his  tent  with  a thorn-liedge  in  order  to  keep  out  the 
inquisitive  natives,  and,  this  failing,  he  fired  some  trains  of  gun- 
powder, and  even  touched  off  a few  shells,  in  the  hope  of 
scaring  them  away.  This  being  ineffectual  also,  he  appealed 
to  Aboo  Sammat,  who  assigned  him  a guard  of  soldiers.  “ But 
even  this  scheme  only  partially  succeeded  ; it  answered  very 
well  as  long  as  I kept  within  the  bounds  of  my  asylum,  but  I 
had  only  to  venture  beyond,  and  I found  my  retinue  as  large 
as  ever.  The  majority  of  those  who  harassed  me  in  this  way 
were  women,  who,  by  keeping  up  with  me  step  by  step, 
thoroughly  baffled  me  in  all  my  attempts  to  botanize ; and  if 
perchance  I managed  to  get  away  into  the  wood,  they  would 
find  me  out  and  trample  down  the  rare  flowers  I had  laboriously 
collected,  till  I was  almost  driven  to  despair.  When  thus  es- 
corted by  about  a hundred  women  I was  marching  down  to 
the  streams  in  the  depths  of  the  valley,  I might  indulge  the 
fancy  that  I was  at  the  head  of  a triumphal  procession,  and  as 
often  as  our  path  led  through  villages  and  farms  the  members 
in  the  train  were  prodigiously  swollen.”  This  annoyance  was 
continued  during  the  whole  of  his  stay,  and  he  could  not  steal 
off  into  the  depths  of  the  woods  even  to  bathe  without  discover- 
ing that  curious  eyes  were  spying  out  his  privacy. 

From  the  foregoing  description  of  their  court  and  court  cere- 
monies it  will  already  have  been  perceived  that  the  Monbuttoo 
are  far  above  the  level  of  the  ordinary  savage  tribes  of  the  in- 
terior; and  in  point  of  fact  Sehweinfnrth  shows  that  they 
have  reached  a plane  which  makes  it  marvellous  that  they  have 
not  risen  still  higher  in  the  social  scale.  From  the  time  he 
first  reached  the  district  of  the  Gazelle  he  had  heard  of  this 
people  as  holding  a peculiar  and  prominent  place ; but  no 
white  traveller  had  ever  before  penetrated  to  their  land,  which 
lies  between  the  parallels  of  3°  and  4°  north  latitude,  and  28° 
and  29°  east  longitude  from  Greenwich.  It  does  not  cover  an 
area  of  more  than  4,000  square  miles,  but  the  population  is  very 


448 


SCHWE1NFURTH. 


dense,  and  Schweinfurth  estimates  it  to  be  not  less  than  a 
million.  The  country  of  the  Niam-Niam  constitutes  the  north- 
ern and  north-western  boundaries  of  the  Monbuttoo,  and  is 
separated  from  it  by  the  river  Keebaly,  which  is  one  of  the 
source  streams  of  the  Welle.  The  government  is  powerful  and 
highly  centralized.  Besides  the  King,  sub-chieftains  or 
viceroys  are  distributed  over  various  sections  of  the  country,  and 
these  are  accustomed  to  surround  themselves  with  a retinue 
and  state  little  inferior  to  that  of  the  king  himself.  Besides 
these  there  are  several  tributary  tribes  lying  to  the  south  and 
south-east.  The  Monbuttoo  land  is  a veritable  Eden  upon 
earth,  resembling  the  description  which  Speke  has  given  of 
Uganda.  “ Unnumbered  groves  of  plantations  bedeck  the 
gently-heaving  soil;  oil-palms,  incomparable  in  beauty,  and 
other  monarchs  of  the  statety  woods,  rise  up  and  spread  their 

flory  over  the  favored  scene ; along  the  streams  there  is  a 
right  expanse  of  charming  verdure,  whilst  a grateful  shadow 
ever  overhangs  the  domes  of  the  idyllic  huts.”  Notwith- 
standing the  fruitfulness  of  the  soil,  however,  no  cereals  are 
grown,  and  agriculture  is  confined  to  the  cultivation  of  sesame, 
cassava,  sweet  potatoes,  sugar-cane,  and  especially  tobacco. 
Plantain  is  the  staple  food  and  grows  in  marvellous  abundance. 
Every  kind  of  cattle-breeding  is  quite  unknown  to  them,  and 
with  the  exception  of  dogs  (considered  a great  delicacy)  and 
poultry,  the  Monbuttoo  have  no  domestic  animals  at  all.  From 
the  marauding  excursions  with  which  they  harass  their  southern 
neighbors  they  bring  back  a prodigious  number  of  goats,  but 
they  make  no  attempt  to  rear  them  for  themselves.  Their 
hunting  expeditions  supply  them  with  meat  enough  for  their 
requirements,  their  taste  leading  them  to  give  the  preference 
to  elephants,  buffaloes,  wild-boars,  and  the  larger  kinds  of  an- 
telopes. 

While  the  women  attend  to  the  tillage  of  the  soil  and  the 
gathering  of  the  harvest,  the  men,  except  they  be  absent  for 
war  or  hunting,  spend  the  entire  day  in  idleness,  gossiping,  and 
smoking  their  pipes.  Smiths  work,  of  course,  is  done  by  the 
men,  and  although  their  instruments  are  as  primitive  as  those 
of  the  Bongo,  their  lances,  spades,  chains,  etc.,  are  wonderful 
specimens  of  manipulative  skill.  The  pottery  is  made  exclu- 
sively by  the  women.  Wood-carving  (which  is  carried  to  great 
perfection)  and  basket-weaving  are  performed  indifferently  by 
either  sex.  Musical  instruments  are  not  touched  by  the  women. 
The  universal  form  of  salutation  consists  of  holding  out  the 
right  hand  and  saying  “ Gassiggy,”  and  at  the  same  time 


8CHWEINFURTK 


449 


cracking  the  joints  of  the  middle  fingers.  The  two  sexes  con- 
duct. themselves  towards  each  other  with  an  excessive  freedom, 
the  women  being  beyond  measure  obtrusive  and  familiar. 
Polygamy  is  unlimited,  but  fidelity  to  the  marriage  obligations 
on  the  part  of  the  wives  seems  to  be  but  little  known.  To- 
wards their  husbands,  indeed,  they  exhibit  the  highest  degree 
of  independence ; the  position  of  the  men  in  the  household  is 
illustrated  by  their  reply  to  every  request  to  sell  anything  as  a 
curiosity,  “ Oh ! ask  my  wife : it  is  liers.”  Circumcision  is 

practised,  but  the  operation  is  not  performed  till  the  age  of 
puberty. 

The  complexion  of  the  Monbuttoo  is  of  a lighter  tint  than 
that  of  any  known  native  of  Central  Africa ; and  another  char- 
acteristic quite  peculiar  to  them  is  that  a considerable  percent- 
age of  the  population  have  light  hair.  “ This  combination  of 
light  hair  and  skin  gives  to  the  Monbuttoo  a position  distinct 
from  all  the  natives  of  the  Northern  part  of  Africa,  with  the 
single  exception  of  the  inhabitants  of  Morocco,  amongst  whom 
fair-haired  individuals  are  far  from  uncommon.”  The  art  of 
weaving  is  unknown  to  the  Monbuttoo,  and  their  only  material 
for  clothing  is  the  bark  of  the  rokko  fig-tree.  By  a partial 
maceration  and  a good  deal  of  thrashing,  they  contrive  to  give 
the  bark  the  appearance  of  a thick,  close  fabric,  which  in  its 
rough  condition's  of  a gray  color,  but  after  being  soaked  in  a 
decoction  of  wood  acquires  a reddish-brown  hue,  something 
like  ordinary  woollen  stuff.  Fastened  at  the  waist  with  a girdle, 
one  of  these  pieces  of  bark  is  sufficient  to  clothe  the  body,  from 
the  breast  downward  to  the  knees,  with  a very  effective  substi- 
tute for'  drapery.  The  women,  however,  go  almost  entirely 
naked  ; they  wear  nothing  but  a piece  of  plantain-leaf  or  bark 
about  the  size  of  the  hand  attached  to  the  front  of  their  girdle, 
the  rest  of  the  body  being  figured  in  elaborate  patterns  by 
means  of  a black  gum  obtained  from  a plant.  Whenever  they 
go  out,  they  carry  across  their  arm  a strap  which  they  lay  across 
their  laps  on  sitting  down.  The  straps  or  scarfs  are  about  a 
foot  wide,  and  as  they  form  their  first  attempt  at  weaving,  their 
texture  is  of  the  clumsiest  order ; they  are  appropriated  to  the 
further  use  of  fastening  infants  to  their  mothers’  back.  At  the 
great  festivals,  every  Monbuttoo  lady  endeavors  to  outshine  her 
compeers,  and  accordingly  paints  her  entire  body  in  an  almost 
inexhaustible  variety  of  patterns.  The  patterns  last  about  two 
days,  when  they  are  carefully  rubbed  off  and  replaced  by  new 
designs.  Instead  of  this  paint  the  men  use  a cosmetic  prepared 
from  pulverized  cam-wood,  which  is  mixed  with  fat  and  rubbed 
29 


450 


SCHWEINFURTE^ 


over  the  whole  body.  The  coiffure  of  both  sexes  is  alike  ; the 
hair  of  the  top  and  back  of  the  head  is  mounted  up  into  a long 
cylindrical  chignon,  and  being  fastened  on  the  inside  with 
reeds,  slopes  backward  in  a slanting  direction.  On  the  top  of 
their  chignons  the  men  wear  cylindrical  straw  hats  adorned 
witli  feathers,  which  follow  the  slanting  direction  of  the  chig- 
nons ; but  the  women  wear  no  hats,  decorating  their  chignons 
with  little  hair-pins  attached  to  combs  made  of  porcupine  quills. 
Carved  benches  are  the  ordinary  seats  of  the  men,  but  the 
women  use  stools  that  have  but  one  foot.  When  paying  a visit 
or  going  to  a public  gathering  the  men  make  their  slaves  carry 
their  benches  for  them,  as  it  is  their  custom  never  to  sit  upon 
the  ground,  not  even  when  it  is  covered  with  mats. 

The  care  given  by  the  Monbuttoo  to  the  preparation  of  their 
food  betokens  their  higher  grade  of  culture.  For  spices  they 
make  use  of  the  capsicum,  the  Malaghetta  pepper,  and  the  fruit 
of  two  hitherto  unspecified  Solanese  ; and  mushrooms  are  in 
common  use  for  the  preparation  of  their  sauces.  All  their 
food  is  prepared  by  the  admixture  of  oil  from  the  oil-palms ; 
and  from  the  fat  thick  bodies  of  the  male  white  ants  they  boil 
out  a greasy  substance  which  is  bright  and  transparent,  and  has 
a taste  perfectly  unobjectionable. 

“ But  of  most  universal  employment  among  them  is  human 
fat,  and  this  brings  our  observations  to  the  climax  of  their  culi- 
nary practices.  The  cannibalism  of  the  Monbuttoo  is  the  most 
prominent  of  all  known  natives  of  Africa.  Surrounded  as  they 
are  by  a number  of  tribes  who  are  blacker  than  themselves,  and 
consequently  held  in  great  contempt,  they  have  just  the  oppor- 
tunity which  they  want  for  carrying  on  their  expeditions  of  war 
and  plunder,  which  result  in  the  acquisition  of  a booty  which  is 
especially  coveted  by  them,  consisting  of  human  flesh.  The 
carcasses  of  all  who  fall  in  battle  are  distributed  upon  the  battle- 
field, and  are  prepared,  by  drying,  for  transportation  to  the 
homes  of  the  conquerors.  They  drive  their  prisoners  before 
them,  without  remorse,  as  butchers  would  drive  sheep  to  the 
shambles,  and  these  are  only  reserved  to  fall  victims  on  a later 
day  to  their  terrible  and  sickening  greediness.  . . . The 
numerous  skulls  now  in  the  Anatomical  Museum  in  Berlin  are 
simply  the  remains  of  their  repasts  which  I purchased  one  after 
another  for  bits  of  copper,  and  go  far  to  prove  that  the  can- 
nibalism of  the  Monbuttoo  is  unsurpassed  by  any  nation  in  the 
world.  But  with  it  all,  the  Monbuttoo  are  a noble  race  of 
men  ; men  who  display  a certain  natural  pride,  and  are  endowed 
with  an  intellect  and  judgment  such  as  few  natives  of  the 


SCHWE1NFURTB. 


451 


African  wilderness  can  boast ; men  to  whom  one  may  put  a 
reasonable  question,  and  who  will  return  a reasonable  answer.” 
It  was  during  his  stay  in  Monbuttoo-land  that  Schweinfurth 
made  the  discovery  which  has  rendered  him  famous : solved  the 
myth  of  two  thousand  years,  and  obtained  positive  proof  of  the 
existence  of 


The  Pygmies. 

As  early  as  during  his  journey  up  the  Nile  from  Khartoom 
he  had  heard  the  Nubian  people  gossiping  about  these  “ people 
of  immortal  myth,”  and  throughout  his  stay  in  the  Seribas  of 
the  Bongo  territory  he  was  continually  hearing  stories  which 
seemed  to  localize  their  home  as  far  to  the  south  of  the  Niam- 
Niam.  The  rumors  grew  in  definiteness  as  he  penetrated 
farther  and  farther  to  the  southward,  and  now  at  the  court  of 
Munza  the  positive  evidence  was  submitted  to  his  eyes. 

“ Several  days  elapsed  after  taking  up  my  residence  by  the 
palace  of  the  Monbuttoo  king  without  my  having  a chance 
to  get  a view  of  the  dwarfs,  whose  fame  had  so  keenly  excited 
my  curiosity.  My  people,  however,  assured  me  that  they  had 
seen  them.  I remonstrated  with  them  for  not  having  secured 
me  an  opportunity  of  seeing  for  myself,  and  for  not  bringing 
them  into  contact  with  me.  I obtained  no  other  reply  but  that 
the  dwarfs  were  too  timid  to  come.  After  a few  mornings  my 
attention  was  arrested  by  ashouting  in  the  camp,  and  I Earned 
that  Aboo  Sammat  had  surprised  one  of  the  Pygmies  in  attend- 
ance upon  the  king,  and  was  conveying  him,  in  spite  of  his 
strenuous  resistance,  straight  to  my  tent.  I looked  up,  and 
there , sure  enough,  was  the  strange  little  creature,  perched 
upon  Aboo  Sammat’s  right  shoulder,  nervously  hugging  his 
head,  and  casting  glances  of  alarm  in  every  direction,  xlboo 
Sammat  soon  deposited  him  in  the  seat  of  honor.  A royal  in- 
terpreter was  stationed  at  his  side.  Eagerly,  and  without  loss 
of  time,  I proceeded  to  take  his  portrait.  I pressed  him  with 
innumerable  questions,  but  to  ask  for  information  was  ar.  easier 
matter  altogether  than  to  get  an  answer.  There  was  the  greatest 
difficulty  in  inducing  him  to  remain  at  rest,  and  I could  only 
succeed  by  exhibiting  a store  of  presents.  Under  the  impres- 
sion that  the  opportunity  might  not  occur  again,  I bribed  the 
interpreter  to  exercise  his  influence  to  pacify  the  little  man,  and 
to  induce  him  to  lay  aside  any  fear  of  me  that  he  might  enter- 
tain. Altogether  we  succeeded  so  well  that  in  a couple  of 
hours  the  Pygmy  had  been  measured,  sketched,  feasted,  pre- 


452 


SCHWEINFTJRTH. 


sented  with  a variety  of  gifts,  and  subjected  to  a minute  cate- 
chism of  searching  questions. 

“His  name  was  Adimokoo.  He  was  the  head  of  a small 
colony  which  was  located  about  half  a league  from  the  royal 
residence.  With  his  own  lips  I heard  him  assert  that  the 
name  of  his  nation  was  Akka,  and  1 learnt  further  that  they 
inhabit  large  districts  to  the  south  of  the  Monbuttoo.  between 
lat.  2°  and  1°  N.  A portion  of  them  are  subject  to  the  Monbut- 
too king,  who,  desirous  of  enhancing  the  splendor  of  his  court 
by  any  available  natural  curiosities,  had  compelled  several 
families  of  the  Pygmies  to  settle  in  the  vicinity.  . . . 

“ In  reply  to  my  question  put  to  Adimokoo  as  to  where  his 
country  was  situated,  pointing  toward  the  S.  S.  E.,  he  said, 
‘ Two  days’  journey  and  you  come  to  the  village  of  Mummery ; 
on  the  third  day  you  will  reach  the  river  Nalobe ; the  fourth 
day  you  arrive  at  the  first  of  the  village  of  the  Akka.’ 

“ ‘ What  do  you  call  the  rivers  of  your  country  ? ’ 

“ ‘ They  are  the  Nalobe,  the  Namerikoo,  and  the  Eddoopa.’ 

“ ‘ Have  you  any  rivers  as  large  as  the  Welle  ? ’ 

“ ‘ No ; ours  are  small  rivers,  and  they  all  flow  into  the 
Welle.’ 

“ ‘ Are  you  all  one  people,  or  are  you  divided  into  separate 
tribes  % ’ 

“ To  this  inquiry  Adimokoo  replied  by  a sudden  gesture,  as 
if  to  indicate  the  vastness  of  their  extent,  and  commenced 
enumerating  the  tribes  one  after  another.  1 There  are  the 
Navapukah,  the  Navatipeh,  the  Vabingisso,  the  Avazubeh,  the 
Avagowumba,  the  Bandoa,  the  Mamomoo,  and  the  Aga- 
bundah.’ 

“ 4 How  many  kings  ? ’ I asked. 

“ ( Nine,’  He  said ; but  I could  only  make  out  the  names  of 
Galeema,  Beddeh,  Tindaga,  and  Mazembi. 

“ My  next  endeavor  was  directed  to  discover  whether  he 
was  acquainted  in  any  way  with  the  dwarf  races  that  have 
been  mentioned  by  previous  travellers,  and  whose  homes  I 
presumed  would  be  somewhere  in  this  part  of  Africa.  . . . My 
question,  however,  only  elicited  a comical  gesture  of  bewilder- 
ment and  a vague  inquiry,  £ What  is  that  ? ’ Equally  unavailing 
were  all  my  efforts  to  obtain  answers  of  .any  precision  to  the 
series  of  questions  which  I invented,  taking  my  hints  from 
Petermann  and  Hassenstein’s  map  of  Central  Africa,  so  that  I 
was  obliged  to  give  up  my  geographical  inquiries  in  despair 
and  turn  to  other  topics.  But  in  reality,  there  did  not  occur 
any  subject  whatever  on  which  I obtained  any  information 


SCHWFINFURTH. 


453 


worth  recording.  At  length,  after  having  submitted  so  long  to 
my  curious  and  persistent  questionings,  the  patience  of  Adi- 
mokoo  was  thoroughly  exhausted,  and  lie  made  a frantic  leap  in 
his  endeavor  to  escape  from  the  tent.  Surrounded,  however, 
by  an  inquisitive  crowd  of  Bongo  and  Nubians,  he  was  unable 
to  effect  his  purpose,  and  was  compelled,  against  his  will,  to 
remain  a little  longer.  After  a time  a gentle  persuasion 
was  brought  to  bear,  and  he  was  induced  to  go  through 
some  of  the  characteristic  evolutions  of  his  war-dances.  He 
was  dressed,  like  the  Monbuttoo,  in  a rokko  coat  and  plumed 
hat,  and  was  armed  with  a miniature  lance  as  well  as  with 
a bow  and  arrow.  His  length  I found  to  be  4 feet  10  inches, 
and  this  I reckon  to  be  the  average  measurement  of  his 
race. 

“ Although  I had  repeatedly  been  astonished  by  witnessing 
the  war-dances  of  the  Niam-Niam,  I confess  that  my  amaze- 
ment was  greater  than  ever  when  I looked  upon  the  exhibition 
which  the  Pygmy  afforded.  In  spite  of  his  huge,  bloated 
belly  and  short,  bandy  legs — in  spite  of  his  age,  which,  by  the 
way,  was  considerable — Adimokoo’s  agility  was  perfectly 
marvellous,  and  I could  not  help  wondering  whether  cranes 
would  ever  be  likely  to  contend  with  such  creatures.  The 
little  man’s  leaps  and  attitudes  were  accompanied  by  such 
lively  and  grotesque  varieties  of  expression  that  the  spectators 
shook  again  and’  held  their  sides  with  laughter.  The  interpreter 
explained  that  the  Akka  jump  about  in  the  grass  like  grasshop- 
pers, and  that  they  are  so  nimble  that  they  shoot  their  arrows 
into  an  elephant’s  eye  and  drive  their  lances  into  their  bel- 
lies. . . . 

“Adimokoo  returned  home  laden  with  presents.  I made 
him  understand  that  I should  be  glad  to  see  all  his  people,  and 
promised  that  they  would  lose  nothing  by  coming.  On  the 
following  day  I had  the  pleasure  of  a visit  from  two  of  the 
younger  men.  I had  an  opportunity  of  sketching  their  like- 
nesses, and  the  portrait  of  one  of  them  is  inserted  here.  After 
they  had  once  gotten  over  their  alarm,  some  or  other  of  the 
Akka  came  to  me  almost  every  day.  As  exceptional  cases,  I 
observed  that  some  individuals  were  of  a taller  stature  ; but 
upon  investigation  I always  ascertained  that  this  was  the  result 
of  intermarriage  with  the  Monbuttoo  amongst  whom  they  re- 
sided. My  sudden  departure  from  Munza’s  abode  interrupted 
me  completely  in  my  study  of  this  interesting  people,  and  1 
was  compelled  to  leave  before  I had  fully  mastered  the  details 
of  their  peculiarities.  I regret  that  I never  chanced  to  see  one 


4 54 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


of  the  Akka  women,  and  still  more  that  my  visit  to  their  dwell- 
ings was  postponed  from  day  to  day  until  the  opportunity  was 
lost  altogether. 

“ I am  not  likely  to  forget  a rencontre  which  I had  with 

several  hundred  Akka  war- 
riors, and  could  very  heart- 
ily wish  that  the  circum- 
stances had  permitted  me 
to  give  a pictorial  repre- 
sentation of  the  scene. 
King  Munza’s  brother, 
Mummery,  who  was  a kind 
of  viceroy  in  the  southern 
sections  of  his  dominions, 
and  to  whom  the  Akka 
were  tributary,  w'as  just  re- 
turning to  the  court  from 
a successful  campaign 
against  the  black  Momvoo. 
Accompanied  by  a large 
band  of  soldiers,  amongst 
whom  was  included  a corps 
of  Pygmies,  he  was  convey- 
ing the  bulk  of  the  booty 
to  his  royal  master.  It 
happened  on  the  day  in 
question  that  I had  been 
making  a long  excursion 
with  my  Niam-Niam  serv- 
ants, and  had  heard  nothing 
of  Mummery’s  arrival.  To- 
ward sunset  I was  passing 
along  the  extensive  village 
on  my  return  to  my  quar- 
bomby  the  ak^a.  ters,  when,  j ust  as  I readied 

the  wide,  open  space  in 
front  of  the  royal  halls,  I found  myself  surrounded  by  what  I 
conjectured  must  be  a crowd  of  impudent  boys,  who  received 
me  with  a sort  of  bravado  fight.  They  pointed  their  arrows 
towards  me,  and  behaved  generally  in  a manner  at  which  I 
could  not  help  feeling  somewhat  irritated,  as  it  betokened  un- 
warrantable liberty  and  intentional  disrespect.  My  misappre- 
hension was  soon  corrected  by  the  Niam-Niam  people  about 


SCUWEINFURTII. 


455 


me.  ‘ They  are  Tikkitikki,’ # said  they;  ‘you  imagine  that 
they  are  boys,  but  in  truth  they  are  men;  nay,  men  that  can 
fight.’  At  this  moment  a seasonable  greeting  from  Mummery 
drew  me  off  from  any  apprehension  on  my  part,  and  from 
any  further  contemplation  of  the  remarkable  spectacle  before 
me.  In  my  own  mind  I resolved  that  I would  minutely 
inspect  the  camp  of  the  new-comers  on  the  following  morning ; 
but  I had  reckoned  without  my  host : before  dawn  Mummery 
and  his  contingent  of  Pygmies  had  taken  their  departure,  and 
thus, 

‘ Like  the  baseless  fabric  of  a vision,’ 

this  people,  so  near  and  yet  so  unattainable,  had  vanished  once 
more  into  the  dim  obscurity  of  the  innermost  continent.” 

Schweinfurth  came  into  possession  of  one  of  these  Akka,  in 
a rather  curious  way.  He  had  brought  with  him  two  dogs  of 
the  common  Bongo  breed,  but  so  much  larger  than  the  mean 
little  curs  of  the  ilonbuttoo  that  they  had  awakened  the  cupid- 
ity of  the  king,  who  tried  in  every  way  to  get  possession  of 
them,  and  finally  sent  a lot  of  male  and  female  slaves  to  ex- 
change for  them.  The  sight  of  these  suggested  a new  idea  to 
Schweinfurth,  and  he  gave  the  king  one  of  the  dogs  in  exchange 
for  a little  Akka  youth  about  fifteen  years  of  age,  hoping  to  be 
able  to  bring  him  to  Europe. 

“ I succeeded  tolerably  well  in  alleviating  the  pain  of  the 
lad’s  parting  from  all  his  old  associations;  the  pain  came  not 
from  any  reluctance  to  part  from  his  kinsfolk,  but  from  fear 
that  the  white  man  intended  to  eat  him  up  by  providing  him 
with  all  the  good  living  and  bestowing  upon  him  all  the  atten- 
tion that  lay  in  my  power.  To  reconcile  him  to  his  lot,  I broke 
through  an  old  rule.  I allowed  him  to  be  my  constant  com- 
panion at  my  meals — an  exception  that  I never  made  in  favor 
of  any  other  native  of  Africa.  Making  it  my  first  care  that  he 
should  be  happy  and  contented,  I submitted  without  a murmur 
to  all  the  uncouth  habits  peculiar  to  his  race.  In  Khartoom  at 
last  I dressed  him  up  till  he  looked  like  a little  pasha.  ...  I 
am  sorry  to  record  that  notwithstanding  all  my  assiduity  and 
attention,  Nsewne  died  in  Berber,  from  a prolonged  attack  of 
dysentery,  originating  not  so  much  in  any  change  of  climate  or 
alteration  of  his  mode  of  living,  as  in  his  immoderate  excess  in 
eating,  a propensity  which  no  influence  on  my  part  was  suffi- 
cient to  control.  During  the  last  ten  months  of  his  life,  my 


* Tikkitikki  is  the  Niam-Niam  designation  of  the  Akka. 


456 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


'protege  did  not  make  any  growth  at  all.  I think  I may  there- 
fore presume  that  his  height  would  never  have  exceeded  four 
•feet  seven  inches,  which  was  his  measurement  at  the  time  of  his 
death.” 

After  careful  analysis  of  his  own  notes,  and  examination  of 
the  writings  of  other  African  explorers,  Dr.  Schweinfurth  con- 
cludes that  the  Akka  are  a branch  of  a series  of  dwarf  races 
which  extend  along  the  equator  entirely  across  Africa,  and 
may  be  considered  as  the  scattered  remains  of  an  aboriginal 
population  now  becoming  extinct. 

In  a fortnight  or  so,  Aboo  Sammat  became  aware  that  he  had 
got  to  the  end  of  Munza’s  store  of  ivory,  and  both  he  and 
Schweinfurth  entertained  a very  strong  desire  to  push  on  still 
farther  to  the  south.  This  desire,  however,  met  with  the  de- 
cided opposition  of  the  king,  who  naturally  felt  that  the  further 
progress  of  the  Khartoomers  would  interfere  with  his  monopoly 
of  the  ivory  and  copper  traffic ; and  as  nothing  could  be  done 
without  his  co-operation,  the  plan  had  to  be  abandoned.  To 
Schweinfurth  the  disappointment  was  very  keen.  At  the  posi- 
sion  at  which  he  had  now  arrived,  he  was  actually  not  more 
than  400  miles  from  Livingstone’s  highest  known  terminus, 
and  was  almost  in  sight  of  the  bills  bounding  the  Mwootau,  or 
Albert  N’Yanza  Lake.  The  solution  of  the  Nile  question 
seemed  absolutely  within  his  grasp,  and  to  turn  back  now  was 
a bitter  grief,  to  which  it  was  hard  to  reconcile  himself.  He 
thinks  that  a different  vista  would  have  opened  itself  before 
him,  if  he  had  been  one  of  those  favored  travellers  who  have 
unlimited  command  of  gold.  An  expedition  fitted  out  with  the 
liberality  of  Speke’s  would  have  been  capable  of  advancing 
from  Munza’s  to  the  south  defiant  of  opposition ; or,  with  200 
soldiers  from  Khartoom,  not  liable  to  fever  and  capable  of  ex- 
isting upon  food  of  any  sort,  any  one  could  penetrate  as  far  as 
he  chose.  A single  traveller,  moreover,  inured  to  the  climate 
and  not  inclined  to  fatness,  could  probably  traverse  the  entire 
interior  unmolested.  He  found  all  the  tribes  favorably  disposed 
toward  the  white  man.  With  even  10,000  dollars  in  his  purse, 
he  believes  he  could  have  accomplished  his  wishes  ; but  for  the 
present  he  had  to  reconcile  himself  to  the  fact  that  he  had 
reached  the  limit  of  his  southern  journey,  and  that  he  must 
hasten  back  to  the  Seribas  in  Bongo-land,  before  the  commence- 
ment of  the  rainy  season. 

The  camp  was  raised  on  the  12tli  of  April,  and  the  return 
journey,  over  the  same  route  taken  in  going,  was  made  without 


SCH  WEINFURTII. 


457 


any  incident  of  special  importance,  except  a fight  with  the 
Niam-Niam  in  Wando’s  territory,  in  which  Aboo  Sammat  was 
badly  wounded.*  The  Seriba  on  tlie  north  border  of  the 
Niam-Niam  country  was  reached  on  May  2d,  and  here  Schwein- 
furth  remained  for  several  weeks,  while  Aboo  Sammat  went 
out  to  punish  his  enemies.  Aboo  Sammat’s  head  Seriba,  Sabby, 
was  reached  oil  July  3d,  1870,  after  an  absence  of  150  days. 

In  his  old  head-quarters  at  Ghattas’  Seriba,  he  found  a new 
consignment  of  supplies  which  had  been  sent  from  Kliartoom. 
Pie  spent  the  next  few  months  in  arranging  his  botanical  col- 
lection and  systematizing  his  numerous  notes;  but  chiefly  in 
preparation  for  a second  journey  to  the  Niam-Niam  country, 
which  he  had  resolved  to  make  at  the  end  of  the  rainy  season, 
in  company  with  one  of  Ghattas’  ivory  expeditions.  But  this 
and  all  similar  schemes  were  defeated  by  a most  disastrous  fire 
which  in  one  fatal  afternoon  destroyed  not  only  all  his  newly 
arrived  supplies,  but  also  all  the  produce  of  the  recent  journey, 
his  botanical  and  entomological  collections,  and,  most  irrepara- 
ble of  all,  his  journals  and  registers.  From  this  time  nothing 
could  be  seriously  thought  of  but  getting  back  to  Europe,  and 
the  intervening  time,  before  the  departure  of  the  boats  from 
the  Meshera,  was  spent  in  poverty  and  privation. 

Nothing,  however,  seemed  to  damp  his  ardor  of  exploration, 
and  he  spent  the  period  of  his  enforced  leisure  in  mapping  out 
the  district  of  the  Upper  Gazelle.  Having  lost  his  watches  and 
pedometer  in  the  fire,  he  actually  counted  all  his  steps  (more 
than  a million  and  a quarter)  over  one  whole  expedition  that 
he  might  fully  satisfy  himself  in  regard  to  his  distances.  And 
when  his  ink  failed,  he  drew  and  made  his  memoranda  with 
chicken’s  blood. 

During  these  later  travels  he  was  brought  into  contact  with 
the  Egyptian  troops  sent  by  the  Khedive  to  occupy  the  territory 
and  put  down  the  slave-trade ; and  it  must  be  confessed  that 


* It  may  be  worth  while  to  note  the  remarkable  symbolism  by  which  war 
was  declared  by  the  natives.  Close  to  the  path,  and  in  full  view  of  every 
passenger,  three  objects  were  suspended  from  the  branch  of  a tree ; viz. , an 
ear  of  maize,  the  feather  of  a fowl,  and  an  arrow.  These  emblems  were  de- 
signed to  signify  that  whoever  touched  an  ear  of  maize  or  laid  his  hands  upon 
a single  fowl  would  assuredly  be  the  victim  of  the  arrow.  It  is  probable  that 
superstition  alone  saved  the  expedition  from  total  annihilation.  Wando  had 
an  unpropitious  augury  (a  fowl  to  which  he  had  given  a poisoned  dose  died) 
at  the  beginning  of  the  fray,  and,  intimidated  at  the  prospect,  he  withdrew 
into  the  recesses  of  the  forest  and  left  one  of  the  smaller  tribes  to  bear  the 
brunt  of  the  unequal  conflict. 


458 


SCHWEINFURTH. 


his  account  is  not  encouraging.  True  to  the  proverb  that 
“ Where  a Turk  lias  been  no  grass  will  grow,”  they  are  only 
depopulating  the  country  and  breaking  up  the  Seribas  by  their 
extortions,  without  arresting  the  horrible  traffic  in  slaves,  which 
is  not  only  winked  at  but  actually  encouraged  by  the  leaders 
of  the  expeditionary  forces. 

With  respect  to  the  question  of  the  Nile,  Schweinfurth,  as 
we  have  said,  crossed  the  western  water-shed  of  that  river,  and 
having  arrived  at  the  region  from  which  the  Lualaba  must 
come  if  it  courses  northward  at  all,  he  found  the  Welle,  the 
Keebaly,  and  the  Gadda,  and  all  the  minor  streams  flowing  west- 
ward, and  probably  into  the  Shary.  This  proves  the  existence 
of  a separate  river-system,  where  Livingstone  and  Stanley 
thought  there  might  be  found  the  continuous  channel  of  the 
Bahr-el-Ghazal. 

On  the  2d  of  November,  1871,  Schweinfurth  found  himself 
once  again  upon  the  soil  of  Europe,  after  an  absence  of  3 years 
and  4 months,  during  which  he  had  penetrated  regions  hitherto 
blanks  upon  the  map,  and  earned  the  right  to  be  classed  among 
the  greatest  of  the  explorers  whose  work  has  been  outlined 
in  the  foregoing  pages. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


SIR  BARTLE  FRERE’S  MISSION  TO  ZANZIBAR. 

It  was  in  1789  that  Mr.  William  Wilberforce  first  proposed, 
in  the  House  of  Commons,  the  abolition  of  the  slave-trade  ; but 
twenty  long  years  of  labor  and  struggle  were  consumed  before 
his  efforts  were  crowned  with  success.  His  bill  was  lost  by  a 
large  majority.  But  he  returned  again  and  again  to  the  attack, 
and  the  House  of  Commons,  in  1794,  for  the  first  time  passed 
a bill  for  the  immediate  abolition  of  the  slave-trade  ; but  this 
was  lost  in  the  House  of  Lords.  Still,  Wilberforce  persevered, 
amid  many  discouragements  and  repeated  losses  of  his  great 
measure,  till  finally,  in  1807,  the  bill  was  passed  which  con- 
demned forever  the  trade  in  slaves.  Twenty-six  years  after- 
wards the  abolition  of  slavery  in  all  British  dominions  took  place, 
and  the  example  and  influence  of  England  soon  secured  from  all 
European  powers  treaty-engagements  by  which  trade  in  African 
slaves  was  declared  to  be  piracy  and  punishable  as  such.  Under 
these  treaties  th*e  African  squadron  was  maintained,  and  mixed 
courts  instituted  at  various  ports  around  the  African  coast,  for 
adjudging  all  cases  of  capture  or  seizure  of  vessels  engaged  in 
the  trade.  By  such  means,  the  slave-trade  of  the  west  coast 
of  Africa  has  become  a thing  of  the  past. 

But  while  this  happy  result  is  chronicled  concerning  the  old 
Atlantic  slave-trade — now  for  other  reasons,  and  to  the  credit  of 
strong  principle,  completely  at  an  end — the  annual  reports  of 
the  British  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  and  the  despatches  of  the  naval 
officers  of  the  few  vessels  which  form  the  East  African  squad- 
ron, tell  a different  tale.  From  these  reports  and  despatches  we 
obtain  particulars  of  the  trade  in  slaves  carried  on  between  the 
East  African  coast  and  ports  on  the  Persian  Gulf,  the  southern 
shores  of  Arabia,  and  the  Red  Sea.  Dr.  Livingstone  bears 
testimony,  speaking  from  personal  observation,  of  the  horrors 
and  atrocities  which  accompany  the  slave-raids  made  to  supply 
this  trade ; and  all  other  recent  travellers  corroborate  his  testi- 
mony. 

It  was  in  the  year  1822  that  the  attention  of  the  British 
government,  was  first  especially  called  to  the  traffic  in  slaves 


460  SIR  BARTLE  FRERE'S  MISSION  TO  ZANZIBAR. 


carried  on  nominally  between  the  African  and  Persian  domin- 
ions of  the  Imaum  of  Muscat,  but  in  reality  between  his  African 
dominions  and  the  very  ports  on  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Persian 
Gulf  to  which  slaves  have  till  now  been  conveyed.  The  domin- 
ions of  the  Imaum  at  that  time  comprised  the  petty  state  of  Mus- 
cat on  the  southern  shore  of  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  a large  portion 
of  the  African  coast,  extending  from  Cape  Delgado,  at  about 
11°  south  latitude,  to  a port  ealled  Jubb,  about  1°  south  of  the 
equator,  including  the  large  and  important  islands  of  Zanzibar, 
Pemba,  and  Mafia.  The  British  government,  while  declaring 
its  intention  of  suppressing  foreign  slave-trading,  refused  to  in- 
terfere with  slavery  as  a domestic  institution,  and  accordingly, 
in  the  case  of  the  Imaum  of  Muscat,  resolved  to  permit  the 
slave-trade  between  port  and  port  in  his  own  dominions  ; and  a 
treaty  to  this  effect  was  arranged  between  the  English  govern- 
ment and  the  Imaum.  This  treaty,  dated  10th  September,  1822, 
stipulates  that  the  Imaum  will  abolish  the  trade  in  slaves  be- 
tween his  dominions  and  every  Christian  country.  By  the  treaty 
and  a subsequent  convention,  authority  to  search  and  detain 
Muscatian  vessels  was  given  to  British  ships  and  the  ships  of  war 
belonging  to  the  East  India  Company  ; and  by  a further  agree- 
ment, concluded  between  the  Imaum  of  Muscat  and  the  Queen 
of  England,  on  the  2d  of  October,  1845,  the  Imaum  agreed  to 
prohibit,  under  the  severest  penalties,  not  only  the  export  of 
slaves  from  his  African  dominions,  but  also  the  importation  of 
slaves  from  any  part  of  Africa  into  his  dominions  in  Asia. 
By  that  treaty  permission  is  granted  to  English  cruisers  to  seize 
and  confiscate  any  vessels  carrying  on  the  slave-trade,  except 
only  such  as  are  engaged  in  the  transport  of  slaves  from  one 
port  to  another  of  the  Imaum’s  African  dominions. 

Upon  the  death  of  the  grandfather  of  the  present  Imaum, 
his  dominions  were  divided  between  his  two  sons,  one  retaining 
the  Persian,  and  the  other  succeeding  to  the  African  territories, 
with  the  title  of  Sultan  of  Zanzibar.  In  consideration  of  the 
superior  wealth  and  extent  of  the  African  dominions  claimed 
by  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  it  was  ultimately  agreed,  after  many 
disputes,  that  he  should  pay  to  his  poorer  brother,  the  Imaum, 
an  annual  subsidy  of  about  $40,000.  Subsequent  events  have 
shown  that  the  particular  source  whence  this  subsidy  was  to  be 
drawn  was  the  royalty  derived  by  the  Sultan  from  the  slave- 
trade,  of  which  he  had  the  keys. 

The  northern  slave-trade  is  carried  on  entirely  by  Arabs,  and 
the  chief  points  between  which  it  is  pursued  are  from  the  main- 
land opposite  and  to  the  south  of  Zanzibar,  to  the  islands  of 


SIR  BARTLE  F RE  RE'S  MISSION  TO  ZANZIBAR.  4G1 


Zanzibar  and  Pemba,  and  thence  to  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Persian 
Gulf.  The  dhows  used  in  the  trade  are  rapid  sailers  before  a 
wind,  and  cany  as  many  as  two  hundred  and  fifty  slaves.  The 
horrors  of  the  capture,  the  land-journey,  and  the  sea-passage  are 
most  appalling.  The  port  of  Quiloa,  or  Ivilwa,  lies  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  south  of  the  island  of  Zanzibar,  and  is 
the  emporium,  or  great  mainland  mart,  where  thousands  are  ex- 
posed for  sale,  and  whence  they  are  shipped  for  Zanzibar.  On 
their  arrival  at  Zanzibar,  the  majority  of  the  slaves  pass  into 
the  slave-market.  Many  are  at  once  consigned  to  their  Arab 
purchasers,  who  have  come  down  from  Arabia  with  the  north- 
erly monsoon,  and  have  hired  houses  for  the  reception  of  their 
purchases.  For  every  slave  thus  brought  to  Zanzibar,  the  Sultan 
receives  a royalty  of  two  dollars,  so  that  his  interest  has  been 
engaged  in  the  maintenance  of  the  traffic.  Dr.  Livingstone 
says,  under  date  the  11th  of  June,  1866,  speaking  of  Zanzibar: 
“ This  is  now  almost  the  only  spot  in  the  world  where  one 
hundred  to  three  hundred  slaves  are  daily  exposed  for  sale  in 
open  market.  This  disgraceful  scene  I have  several  times 
personally  witnessed,  and  the  purchasers  were  Arabians  or  Per- 
sians, whose  dhows  lay  anchored  in  the  harbor,  and  these  men 
were  daily  at  their  occupation  examining  the  teeth,  gait,  and 
limbs  of  the  slaves,  as  openly  as  horse-dealers  engage  in  their 
business  in  England.”  In  a letter  dated  Zanzibar,  the  4th  of 
October,  1868,  Mr.  Consul  Churchill  states,  that  for  the  five  years 
terminating  September,  1867,  there  had  been  exported  from 
Quiloa  ninety-seven  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty-three  reg- 
istered slaves.  There  had  also  been  from  three  thousand  to 
four  thousand  smuggled  every  year  from  various  parts  of  the 
mainland ; so  that  the  total  amounts  to  about  one  hundred  and 
fifteen  thousand  slaves,  in  five  years,  who  have  reached  the  coast, 
and  have  been  shipped  for  Zanzibar,  Arabia,  and  other  places. 
Dr.  Livingstone  again  sa}rs : “Let  it  not  be  supposed  for  an 
instant,  that  those  taken  out  of  the  country  represent  all  the 
victims  ; they  are  but  a very  small  section  of  the  sufferers. 
Besides  those  actually  captured,  thousands  are  killed  and  die  of 
their  wounds  aud  famine,  driven  from  the  villages  by  the  slave- 
raid  ; thousands  in  internecine  war  waged  for  slaves  with  their 
own  clansmen  and  neighbors,  slain  by  the  lust  of  gain,  which 
is  stimulated  by  the  slave-purchasers.  The  many  skeletons  we 
have  seen  amongst  rocks  and  woods,  by  the  little  pools,  and  along 
the  paths  of  the  wilderness,  attest  the  awful  sacrifice  of  human 
life  which  must  be  attributed,  directly  or  indirectly,  to  this  trade 
of  hell.  We  would  ask  our  countrymen  to  believe  us  when  we 


462  SIR  BARTLE  FRERE' S MISSION  TO  ZANZIBAR. 


say,  as  we  conscientiously  can,  that  it  is  our  deliberate  opinion, 
from  what  we  know  and  have  seen,  that  not  one-fifth  of.  the 
victims  of  the  slave-trade  ever  become  slaves.  Taking  the 
Shire  valley  as  an  average,  we  should  say  not  even  one-tentli 
arrive  at  their  destination.” 

Within  the  last  ten  or  twelve  years  more  attention  has  been 
given  by  the  British  authorities  to  the  subject ; and,  in  addition 
to  the  watch  maintained  by  the  small  squadron,  various  measures 
have  been  urged  upon  the  Sultan,  the  adoption  of  which,  it  was 
thought,  would  materially  aid  the  efforts  of  the  cruisers.  Per- 
sons acquainted  with  the  traffic  give  it  as  their  opinion  that  the 
trade  has  suffered  no  perceptible  check  because  of  the  protection 
afforded  by  the  British  ships  over  the  'first  and  most  difficult 
half  of  the  sea- voyage,  it  being  pretended  by  the  dealers  that 
these  slaves  were  for  home  service.  But  this  lias  been  a false 
pretence,  and,  aware  of  the  fact,  Lord  Russell  in  a despatch 
dated  14th  March,  1864,  says,  that  “ Her  Majesty’s  government 
do  not  claim  the  right  to  interfere  in  the  status  of  domestic 
slavery  in  Zanzibar,  nor  with  the  bona-fide  transport  of  slaves 
from  one  portion  of  the  Sultan’s  territory  to  another,  so  long  as 
this  latter  traffic  shall  not  be  made  a cloak  to  cover  the  foreign 
slave-trade.” 

It  was  the  conviction  that  this  was  systematically  being  done, 
that  induced  the  British  government  in  November,  1S72,  to 
send  a special  mission,  under  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  to  Zanzibar,  to 
demand  an  entire  stoppage  and  cessation  of  the  slave-trade.  It 
could  not  be  credited  that  so  many  as  an  average  of  twenty 
thousand  slaves  a year  could  possibly  be  required  for  the  supply 
of  the  domestic  demand  in  Zanzibar ; and  it  was  believed  that 
nothing  short  of  the  entire  suppression  of  the  traffic  would  suffice 
for  the  protection  of  the  poor  people  who  were  its  victims.  Sir 
Bartle  Frere  was  especially  qualified  for  such  a trust  as  that 
which  was  reposed  in  him.  At  an  early  age  he  had  entered  the 
Civil  Service  of  India,  and  in  that  service  had  passed  through 
every  grade,  during  a residence  of  upwards  of  thirty  years,  un- 
til he  reached  the  highest  dignity,  the  government  of  the  pres- 
idency to  which  he  belonged.  Ilis  government  had  been  most 
successful ; and  he  was  a man  of  vigorous  understanding,  strong 
tenacity  of  purpose,  a kindly  disposition,  a genial  manner,  and 
in  earnest  sympathy  with  the  oppressed  people  whose  sufferings 
he  hoped  to  mitigate.  He  was,  besides,  well  supported  in  his 
present  undertaking  by  a staff  of  officers,  some  of  whom  were 
competent  geographers,  who  intended  to  further  explore  the 
African  interior. 


SIR  BARTLE  FRERE'S  MISSION  TO  ZANZIBAR  463 


Having  used  his  influence  at  Aden  and  Bombay  in  a manner 
the  results  of  which  were  favorable,  he  proceeded  to  Zanzibar. 
The  Sultan,  Syed  Burghash,  was  not  at  once  amenable  to  reason. 
He  clung  to  the  old  treaty  of  1845,  and  officially  proclaimed 
that  the  ports  were  open  to  incoming  and  outgoing  slaves ; but 
it  was  seen  by  the  traders  who  were  especially  under  influence 
from  Bombay,  that  the  British  government  was  in  earnest,  and 
no  laden  dhows  came  in  and  none  went  out ; and  the  customs 
receipts  fell  off  accordingly.  That  fact  must  have  helped  to 
open  the  Sultan’s  eyes.  He  had  said  that  his  religion  would  no; 
permit  him  to  grant  Sir  Bartle  Frere’s  demands,  and  he  had 
intimated  that  his  people  would  not  endure  the  proposed  restric- 
tion. He  had  indeed  been  pleasant  in  all  the  interviews  held 
with  him,  and  had  not  objected  to  the  British  envoy’s  assertion 
that  “ the  sea  was  God’s  highway,  and  ought  not  to  carry  slave- 
ships  upon  it.”  But  his  officers,  he  said,  would  not  permit  him 
to  abolish  the  slave-trade.  At  first,  therefore,  he  would  do 
nothing — would  promise  nothing.  But  the  course  pursued  by 
the  traders  enlightened  him.  These  traders  were  in  constant 
intercourse  with  places  and  persons  desirous  of  standing  well 
with  England,  and  they  durst  not,  therefore,  oppose  the  wishes 
of  the  English  government  in  the  matter  of  the  slave-trade. 
To  the  Sultan  himself  the  profits  of  legitimate  commerce  were 
greater  than  those  which  were  derived  from  this  branch  of 
traffic,  and  he  was  not  able  to  brave  the  danger  which  now 
threatened  his  interests.  When  the  ships  of  the  English  squad- 
ron anchored  off  Zanzibar,  and  it  was  seen  that  the  British 
government  meant  what  it  said,  and  that  its  demands  would 
be  sustained  by  the  American  and  French  governments,  even 
the  chiefs  of  the  Sultan  preferred  a quiet  arrangement  to  a 
blockade.  On  the  5th  of  June,  1873,  the  new  treaty  was  signed 
by  the  Sultan,  and  even  the  home  importation  of  slaves  at  Zan- 
zibar is  therefore  now  at  an  end. 

Aside  from  the  moral  effect  of  this  treaty,  it  will  go  far  tow- 
ards depriving  the  slave-dealers  of  a market,  and  by  depriving 
the  entire  traffic  on  these  coasts  of  the  pseudo  legal  character 
which  it  has  hitherto  possessed,  will  render  its  complete  suppres- 
sion comparatively  an  easy  matter. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  AFRICA. 

At  this  stage  of  our  work,  after  surveying  all  that  lias  been 
done  to  add  to  our  knowledge  of  Africa,  the  question  naturally 
occurs,  What  has  been  done  for  the  civilization  and  evangeli- 
zation of  this  immense  territory?  Unhappily  trade  has  been 
often  so  conducted  that  it  has  tended  to  degrade  the  people 
still  further  rather  than  to  elevate  them.  The  good  influence 
lias  been  almost  entirely  missionary. 

Most  of  the  pagan  tribes  of  Africa  seem,  according  to  the 
best  authorities,  to  have  a species  of  belief  in  a Supreme  Being. 
They  not  only  have  a word  to  indicate  that  belief,  but  some  of 
the  tribes  have  subordinate  terms  to  represent  the  Supreme,  as 
the  Creator,  Governor,  and  Preserver.  But  their  belief  has 
little  or  no  influence  on  their  conduct.  They  do  not  realize  in 
thought  and  feeling  what  the  names  denote,  and  regard  the 
ruler  of  the  world  as  indifferent,  or  even  hostile,  to  ITis  own 
creation.  A belief  in  a future  life  seems  to  be  nearly  univer- 
sal, but  confused  and  gross.  Believing  in  the  transmigration 
of  souls,  they  hold  in  special  veneration  some  of  the  lower  ani- 
mals, supposing  that  these  are  inhabited  by  the  spirits  of  their 
ancestors  or  friends.  They  have  strange  and  conflicting  notions 
in  respect  to  the  condition  of  the  dead.  Of  a state  of  future 
rewards  and  punishments  they  know  nothing,  although  some 
have  a shadowy  idea  of  an  ordeal  which  must  be  passed. 

Fetichism  and  devil-worship  are  the  prevalent  forms  of 
religion  among  these  tribes.  The  two  things  are  separate 
and  distinct,  although  they  have  sometimes  been  ignorantly 
confounded.  Fetichism  is  the  wearing  of  a charm.  The 
charm  passes  under  several  names  in  different  parts  cf  the 
country.  It  may  consist  of  anything  which  has  been  conse- 
crated to  this  particular  use,  but  is  usually  a piece  of  wood, 
horn,  ivory,  or  metal.  There  are  various  classes  of  fetiches, 
according  to  the  ends  contemplated,  and  these  are  known  by 
distinct  names.  Some  are  worn  about  the  person ; others 
are  suspended  in  the  house  to  ward  off  danger,  or  on  the 
highway  to  fence  the  farm  and  orchard,  and  make  them 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  AFRICA. 


4G3 


fruitful ; others  are  worn  in  war  to  give  success ; and  others 
are  of  a more  public  character,  to  guard  the  village,  or  to 
defend  the  person  and  house  of  the  chief.  The  fetiches  are 
thus  supposed  to  save  from  some  impending  evil,  or  to  secure 
some  coveted  good,  and  especially  to  provide  against  the 
power  of  witchcraft.  They  are  trusted  till  proven  ineffective, 
and  then  they  are  abandoned  and  others  adopted  instead. 
The  faith  in  fetiches  does  not,  however,  fail.  If  a man 
possesses  ten  and  finds  nine  of  them  useless,  he  regards  the 
tenth  as  all  the  greater  treasure.  As  old  age  with  its  feeble- 
ness advances,  the  veneration  for  fetiches'  becomes  greater. 
Intercourse  with  civilized  people,  and  the  influence  of  Chris- 
tianity, can  alone  break  up  that  potent  spell.  No  one  thinks 
of  fetiches  themselves  as  other  than  pieces  of  senseless  mat- 
ter; yet  all  believe  that  they  exercise  a mysterious  and  power- 
ful influence. 

But  the  principal,  perhaps  we  ought  to  say  the  only,  form 
of  religious  homage  among  these  tribes  has  been  called 
“ devil- worship,”  perhaps  for  want  of  a more  appropriate  name. 
The  spirits  are  invoked  or  deprecated.  The  belief  is  that 
there  are  good  spirits,  whose  presence  and  favor  are  indispen- 
sable to  preservation  and  comfort;  and  to  propitiate  them 
the  people  build  houses  and  make  large  and  varied  offerings. 
The  evil  spirits  are  viewed  as  the  authors  of  every  form  of 
evil,  personal,  domestic,  and  -social.  In  some  places,  offerings 
are  presented  to  conciliate  the  devil,  and  to  induce  him  to 
remove  the  threatened  or  actual  calamity.  In  other  places, 
whole  communities  have  resorted  to  clubs,  with  which,  amid 
frantic  gestures  and  screams  and  surrounded  with  the  glare 
of  hundreds  of  torch-lights,  they  have  chased  the  fiend  rrom 
their  houses,  beyond  their  town,  and  for  several  miles  out 
into  the  country. 

With  regard  to  Christian  effort  on  behalf  of  these  be- 
nighted people,  we  may  observe  that  the  London  Missionary 
Society  sent  four  agents  to  South  Africa  in  the  year  1798. 
In  presenting  an  example  of  such  work  in  Africa  as  is  fur- 
nished by  the  labors  of  Moffat  and  his  coadjutors,  we  shall 
have  occasion  more  particularly  to  refer  to  these  operations. 
At  Kat  River  there  was  a mission  established  in  1816,  for  the 
purpose  of  extending  efforts  previously  begun.  Work  of 
the  same  description  has  been  carried  on  at  the  Zak  River, 
and  among  the  Bushmen  at  Colesberg,  and  beyond  the  Orange 
River  into  the  wild  and  desolate  Namaqua-land.  Polygamy, 
slavery,  war,  and  canteens  in  certain  parts  nearer  to  the  Cape, 
SO 


4G6 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  AFRICA. 


are  the  great  obstructions  which  hinder  success  in  such  enter- 
prises as  these.  Since  Livingstone’s  explorations  have  made 
known  so  much  of  the  interior  of  the  country,  various  sta- 
tions, supported  by  different  denominations  of  Christians, 
have  been  opened  among  the  more  distant  tribes. 

In  1821,  the  Glasgow  Missionary  Society  commenced  its 
work  in  Kaffraria,  in  a soil  which  was  very  unpromising,  but 
which  has,  nevertheless,  not  been  unfruitful.  Other  societies 
have  followed  this  example — the  Free  Church  of  Scotland, 
the  United  Presbyterian  Church,  the  Glasgow  African  Society, 
and  others. 

In  1737,  Mr.  George  Schmidt,  in  connection  with  the 
Moravians,  attempted  to  plant  a mission  near  Sergeant’s 
River,  for  the  instruction  of  the  Hottentots.  He  met  with 
partial  success,  and,  after  instruction,  baptized  not  a few 
natives.  After  seven  years  he  was  under  the  necessity  of 
visiting  Europe,  and  was  ordered  by  the  Dutch  government 
not  to  return.  But  his  little  flock  kept  together.  The  Bible 
had  been  left  with  them  ; and  years  afterwards  there  were 
pleasing  traces  of  Mr.  Schmidt’s  labors.  The  mission  was 
revived  in  1792.  There  have  been  many  discouragements 
and  difficulties,  by  means  of  war  and  otherwise,  but  there 
are  now  many  stations,  and  a large  number  of  professing 
Christians,  as  well  as  schools,  and  an  institution  for  the  train- 
ing of  native  preachers  and  teachers. 

The  Paris  Evangelical  Missionary  Society  has  various 
stations  in  different  parts  of  South  Africa,  farther  into  the 
interior  of  the  continent.  In  this  region,  the  Rhenish  Mis- 
sionary Society  has  also  several  agents.  The  Berlin  Mission- 
ary Society  has  ten  stations  among  the  Corannas  and  Kaffres. 

The  American  Board  of  Missions,  in  1834,  established  sta- 
tions in  the  countries  of  Dingaan’s  and  Mosilikatse’s  tribes ; 
and  though  the  work  has  been  much  interrupted,  even  to 
temporary  cessation  at  times  by  war,  it  has  yet  been  perse- 
vered in,  and  is  maintained  and  extended. 

The  Wcsleyans  have  long  conducted  missions  in  the  Colony 
and  in  its  vicinity,  and  now  they  have  penetrated  far  beyond 
it.  Of  late  years,  the  other  sections  of  the  Methodist  family 
have  followed  the  example  of  their  elder  sister,  and  sent  agents 
to  various  parts  of  the  country,  nearer  or  more  remote. 

In  1804,  the  Church  of  England  Missionary  Society  sent 
two  missionaries  to  the  Susoo  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Sierra 
Leone.  The  Moravians,  as  early  as  1733,  had  attempted  a 
settlement  on  the  Gold  Coast,  and  had  persevered  for  about 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  AFRICA. 


407 


forty  years;  and  the  Baptists,  in  1795,  had  also  attempted 
work  in  Western  Africa,  but  without  success.  In  1796,  tnree 
societies — the  London,  the  Scottish,  aud  the  Glasgow — made 
a united  effort  to  plant  a mission  among  the  Foulahs,  each 
contributing  two  missionaries;  but  disease  and  dissension 
thinned  their  numbers,  and  the  only  man  who  gave  any  prom- 
ise of  usefulness  was  murdered.  The  attempt  was  renewed 
by  the  Glasgow  Society  alone ; but  the  two  missionaries  sur- 
vived their  arrival  in  the  country  ouly  a very  few  months. 
Witli  these  startling  facts  before  them,  it  displayed  courage 
on  the  part  of  both  the  directors  and  the  missionaries  to 
engage  in  a work  which  had  been  so  frequently  and  so  signally 
unsuccessful.  Two  missionaries  arrived  at  Sierra  Leone  in 
1804;  they  settled  for  a time  in  Freetown.  In  1800,  four 
additional  laborers  arrived.  These  all,  according  to  instruc- 
tions from  home,  devoted  themselves  almost  exclusively  to 
the  teaching  of  the  young.  This  was  a mistake : the  ignorant 
parents  fancied  that  if  their  children  learned  from  the  white 
man’s  book,  they  must  of  necessity  outshine  their  countrymen. 
They  therefore  discouraged  the  schools.  It  is  needful  to  en- 
list the  sympathy  and  good-will  of  a whole  community  before 
the  work  of  education  can  rest  on  a proper  and  promising 
basis.  The  slave-traders  also  opposed  the  undertaking;  but 
the  missionaries. persevered  and  broadened  the  plan  of  work- 
ing, seeking  more  directly  to  benefit  the  parents  as  well  as 
the  children.  A new  station  was  opened  on  the  Bullom  shore, 
and  another  on  the  Bio  Dembia,  or  Gambier.  But  the  slave- 
dealers  fired  the  premises  in  the  latter  place,  and  the  mission- 
aries barely  escaped  with  their  lives.  At  Sierra  Leone,  and  all 
around  within  near  reach  of  it,  these  laborers  were  ultimately 
not  a little  successful.  The  schools  and  other  institutions 
intended  to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  people  were  of  exten- 
sive benefit,  and  it  was  with  much  regret  that,  on  account  of 
the  large  loss  of  life  which  the  maintenance  of  the  mission 
involved,  many  of  these  stations  had  to  be  abandoned. 

The  YorubahjOr  Yarriba,  country  was  at  onetime  one  of  the 
most  powerful  kingdoms  in  Western  Africa.  In  1817  a 
great  and  destructive  war  spread  desolation  over  its  entire 
territory.  Out  of  the  ruin  of  one  hundred  and  forty-five 
towns  arose  the  city  of  Abbeokuta.  The  city  is  supposed  to 
have  a population  of  about  one  hundred  thousand.  The 
inhabitants  had  fled  from  the  wasted  villages,  cleared  away  the 
forest,  and  continued  building  until  streets  of  houses  were 
erected  for  their  accommodation.  The  people  generally  are 


468 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  AFRICA. 


agriculturists ; yet  there  are  many  mechanics  and  tradesmen 
in  every  useful  calling.  Their  religion  is  polytheistic.  They 
have  no  proper  idea  of  the  Supreme  Being.  They  have  a 
god  for  every  sphere,  and  are  firm  believers  in  charms, 
divination,  and  witchcraft.  Their  chief  gods  are  Saugo,  the 
god  of  thunder,  and  Ifa,  the  god  of  divination.  The  people 
universally  pray  to  the  spirits  of  their  deceased  fathers.  The 
“Egiui”  is  the  spirit  of  a dead  man,  which,  after  varied 
incantations,  comes  forth  from  the  sacred  grove,  and  person- 
ates various  parties,  and  for  different  purposes.  The  scene 
of  an  occasion  of  “ worship  ” is  a masquerade,  and  a man 
acts  in  it  in  the  most  grotesque  apparel.  The  “ Egu,”  or 
“ Oro,”  is  associated  with  the  government  as  well  as  with 
religion.  It  is  a secret  society,  bound  by  the  most  sacred 
oaths.  No  woman  is  permitted  to  become  a member  ; and  if, 
unhappily,  one  is  discovered  or  suspected  of  knowing  its 
mysteries,  she  is  immediately  put  to  death.  When  the 
“Egnn”  comes  to  a town,  the  women  hide  themselves. 
Through  this  influence  the  government  is  conducted,  its  laws 
sanctioned,  and  its  penalties  enforced.  When  a culprit  is 
punished,  it  is  said  that  Oro  has  eaten  him,  and  no  question 
is  asked. 

The  missions  among  these  people,  as  well  as  those  at  Sierra 
Leone,  were  under  the  care  of  the  Church  of  England  So- 
ciety ; and  the  missionaries  still  remaining,  with  fellow- 
laborers  who  occupy  new  ground,  represent  that  there  are 
four  towns  within  two  or  three  days’  travel  of  Abbeokuta, 
with  an  aggregate  population  of  two  hundred  thousand. 
There  are  many  other  towns,  and  the  same  language  is  spoken 
in  all,  so  that  the  way  is  open  for  such  efforts  of  missionary 
zeal.  Many  of  the  people  have  become  Mahometans,  which 
shows  that  they  are  not  hopelessly  wedded  to  their  supersti- 
tious views. 

Mr.  Samuel  Crowther  is  an  African,  and  a native  of  the 
Yorubah  district.  lie  was  rescued  from  a Portuguese  slaver  by 
a British  cruiser,  carried  to  Sierra  Leone,  educated  in  the 
Fourah  Bay  institution,  went  to  England,  w’here  he  completed 
his  education  at  the  Society’s  institution  in  Islington,  and  was 
ordained  by  the  Bishop  of  London  as  a missionary  to  Sierra 
Leone.  lie  preached  his  first  English  sermon  in  Africa,  in 
the  Freetown  Church,  on  the  3d  of  December,  1843,  when 
great  interest  and  high  hopes  were  excited.  In  the  following 
January,  he  established  a service  in  Yorubah,  his  native 
tongue.  The  novelty  of  the  service  attracted  an  immense 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  AFRICA. 


469 


crowd.  Many  of  these  people  returned  to  their  native  homes, 
and  a mission  was  instituted  for  Yorubah  itself,  and  new 
agents  were  appointed.  Crovvther  also  laid,  with  great  wisdom, 
t lie  foundation  of  an  important  scheme  called  the  Niger  Mis- 
sion. lie  was  consecrated  bishop — an  able  and  most  worthy 
man — and  these  evangelistic  efforts  have  greatly  prospered. 
Connected  with  these  missions  altogether  there  are  more  than 
a score  of  missionaries  and  several  thousand  communicants. 

In  the  Old  Calabar  district  of  Western  Africa  there  are 
several  stations,  which  are  under  the  care  of  the  United 
Presbyterian  Church.  Dr.  Waddell  and  other  agents  have 
labored  with  much  success  for  the  good  of  the  people,  both 
old  and  young.  Greek  Town,  Duke  Town,  and  Old  Town 
have  been  the  more  immediate  spheres  of  operation.  The 
climate  is  most  unhealthy  to  Europeans,  and  the  loss  of  mis- 
sionary life  has  been  very  great.  Slavery  and  the  debasing 
superstitions  of  the  people  have  been  formidable  discourage- 
ments; but  the  work  has  been  persistently  carried  on. 

The  Basle  Missionary  Society  turned  its  attention  to  the 
Gold  Coast  in  1826,  and  five  agents  arrived  at  Christiansborg, 
near  Akra,  in  1828.  There  has  been  much  loss  of  life,  but 
the  work  has  been  persevered  in  and  has  prospered.  There 
are  three  principal  centres  of  operation — Christiansborg,  Akro- 
pong,  and  Ussu^or  Danish  Akra. 

The  American  Board  for  Foreign  Missions  began  its  efforts, 
on  behalf  of  Western  Africa,  by  forming  a station  at  Cape 
Palmas  in  1834.  Two  years  afterwards  the  mission  was 
reinforced,  and  in  three  years  more  the  war  between  Dingaan 
and  the  Dutch  drove  several  missionaries  from  South  Africa 
to  this  point,  at  which  they  continued  their  labors.  There 
are  now  several  missionaries,  a physician,  and  a number  of 
native  assistants,  and  their  endeavors  have  not  been  without 
good  results.  A change  was  soon  visible  in  the  Negro  popu- 
lation, the  Sabbath  became  respected,  and  both  churches  and 
schools  -were  well  attended. 

The  American  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  has  sent  several 
agents  to  Liberia ; and  they  have  had  gratifying  success,  but 
from  the  insalubrity  of  the  climate,  at  great  cost  of  life  and 
treasure. 

The  American  Episcopal  Board  of  Missions  has  stations  in 
Western  Africa,  at  Cape  Palmas,  and  elsewhere.  In  connec- 
tion with  the  mission  there  are  also  day  and  boarding  schools, 
churches,  and  an  orphan  asylum,  and  there  are  eleven  stations, 
eleven  missionaries,  eleven  assistants,  and  four  native  teachers. 


470 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  AFRICA. 


However  much  the  late  war  against  Ashantee  may  be 
regretted,  it  will  at  least  morally  affect  all  these  parts,  and, 
it  is  to  be  hoped,  will  weaken  superstition,  and  open  the  way 
for  renewed  missionary  effort. 

The  American  Missionary  Association  has  also  a mission, 
called  the  Mendi  Mission,  in  the  Sherbro  country,  which  em- 
ploys seven  missionaries. 

The  Southern  American  Baptist  Convention  has  accom- 
plished much  good  in  Liberia  and  Yorubah,  where  there  are 
thirteen  missionaries,  eleven  churches,  and  eleven  schools. 

It  will  be  observed  by  the  reader  that  this  effort,  tl lough 
by  many  organizations  and  in  a wide  field,  has  yet  been  re- 
stricted to  the  older  and  longer  known  parts  of  Africa.  But 
this  is  natural.  Evangelization  could  not  be  projected  in 
regard  to  unvisited  and  unknown  lands ; and  exploration  and 
extensive  discovery  in  the  African  continent  have  only  within 
recent  years  brought  to  our  knowledge  the  existence  and  the 
needs  of  those  immense  multitudes  who  now  claim  our  benev- 
olent aid.  Nor  has  the  claim  been  disregarded.  The  visit 
of  Dr.  Livingstone  to  England,  after  his  first  great  journey, 
gave  a new  impulse  to  missionary  zeal  on  behalf  of  these 
millions  of  people.  In  that  visit  originated  Bishop  Macken- 
zie’s, or  the  Universities’  Mission  ; and  all  the  great  organiza- 
tions whose  object  is  the  welfare  of  the  heathen  have  largely, 
because  of  the  same  revelations,  augmented  the  number  of 
their  agents,  while  others  who  had  not  previously  been  in  the 
field  have  willingly  joined  them  in  a work  which  is  so  great, 
and  many  Christian  teachers  have  gone  to  the  distant  interior, 
to  tribes  of  the  existence  of  whom  we  were  previously  igno- 
rant. 


CHAPTER  XXL 


MOFFAT,  THE  MISSIONARY. 

Moffat’s  journeys  in  South  Africa,  if  regarded  from  a geo- 
graphical point  of  view,  should  have  been  recorded  much  earlier 
Fn  the  present  volume,  which  is  as  nearly  as  possible  chrono- 
logical in  its  arrangement;  but  their  results  in  the  way  of 
discovery  have  already  been  summarized  in  the  introductory 
chapter,  and  we  shall  present  in  the  following  pages  a few 
only  of  the  most  characteristic  incidents  in  the  experience  of 
one  whose  name  is,  next  to  his  son-in-law  Livingstone’s,  the 
most  prominent  in  the  long  list  of  missionaries  to  Africa. 
These  experiences  may  be  taken  as  a type  of  those  of  African 
missionaries  in  general,  and  they  possess,  therefore,  a more  than 
individual  interest. 

Robert  Moffat  was  born  at  Ormiston,  near  Haddington, 
Scotland1,  in  1795.  Ilis  early  years  were  spent  at  Carron 
Shore,  on  the  F«rith  of  Forth,  his  father  being  connected  with 
the  Customs  at  that  place.  At  about  twelve  years  of  age  he 
was  induced  to  go  to  sea ; but  he  did  not  like  it,  and  soon  re- 
turned to  school.  By  and  by  he  became  a gardener,  and  after 
spending  a few  years  near  home,  went  to  England  and  obtained 
a situation  in  Cheshire.  Moffat’s  parents  were  both  good  peo- 
ple ; his  mother,  in  particular,  setting  him  an  example  of  hum- 
ble but  sincere  piety.  When  about  to  leave  home  for  England, 
she  earnestly  besought  him  to  promise  her  that  he  would  read 
a portion  of  the  Bible  every  day,  both  morning  and  evening. 
He  evaded  the  question — he  had  not  confidence  in  himself; 
but  she  insisted,  and  he  gave  the  desired  pledge,  and,  moreover, 
did  what  he  had  promised.  Years  afterwards  he  said,  “ Ob, 
I am  happy  I did  so!”  In  Warrington  his  attention  was 
drawn  to  the  work  of  the  London  Missionary  Society ; and,  in 
respect  to  that  work,  he  asked  and  obtained  an  interview  with 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Roby,  of  Manchester.  The  result  was  that  he 
offered  his  services  to  the  Directors  of  that  Society,  and  was 
accepted.  Shortly  before,  a young  man,  in  every  way  well  fitted 
for  the  duties  which  he  sought  the  opportunity  of  perform- 
ing, had  been  refused  because  his  parents  would  not  consent. 


472 


MOFFAT,  TEE  MISSIONARY. 


Dr.  Wang!  1 was  in  the  chair,  and  said  to  the  applicant,  “ My 
dear  lad,  your  father  refuses,  and,  though  quite  satisfied  with 
your  examination,  we  cannot  accept  you,  because  we  don’t 
think  you  strong  enough,  just  yet,  to  jump  over  the  fifth  com- 
mandment.” Moffat  knew  of  this,  and  therefore  when  lie  was 
asked,  “Have  you  made  your  parents  acquainted  with  your 
purpose?”  a faintness  came  over  him,  as  he  was  compelled  to 
answer  “No.”  13nt  he  was  received,  and  the  reply  was,  “ We 
have  thought  of  your  proposal  to  become  a missionary:  we 
have  prayed  over  it ; and  we  cannot  withhold  you  from  so  good 
a work.”  He  never  had  any  formal  ministerial  training, 
although  for  a time  he  gratefully  received  instructions  from 
Mr.  Roby.  He  was  encouraged  by  Dr.  Andrew  Reed  and 
Dr.  Philip,  both  of  whom  were  at  the  time  but  shortly  advanced 
in  paths  of  their  own  which  led  to  future  eminence.  Ilis  great 
success  as  a missionary  was  likewise  predicted  by  the  sagacious 
Rev.  "William  Orme,  the  Secretary  of  the  Society.  How  well- 
grounded  were  his  expectations  the  result  has  abundantly 
shown. 

Moffat  arrived  at  the  Cape  in  1817,  and  soon  set  out  for 
Great  Namaqua -land,  the  scene  of  his  first  missionary  labors. 
The  way  had  been  to  some  extent  prepared  for  him  by  the  Rev. 
John  Campbell,  who  had  been  deputed  by  the  Society  to  visit  the 
stations  in  Africa,  and  to  open  up  new  ground.  Under  Camp- 
bell’s ministrations,  Africaner,  a noted  Namaqua  freebooter  chief, 
had  shown  signs  of  relenting  and  hopeful  change ; Moffat  was 
directed,  in  the  first  instance,  to  remain  for  some  time  with  him 
and  his  people,  who  are  the  Namaqua  branch  of  the  Hottentots. 
On  the  26th  of  January,  1818,  after  a toilsome  and  adventu- 
rous journey  across  Cape  Colony,  the  missionary  arrived  at 
Africaner’s  kraal  on  the  banks  of  the  Orange  River.  The 
chief  appeared  in  about  an  hour,  and  inquired  if  he  was  the 
missionary  appointed  by  the  directors  in  London,  and  being 
answered  in  the  affirmative,  seemed  much  pleased,  and  gave 
orders  that  “ a house  should  be  built  for  the  missionary.”  This 
task  was  accomplished  by  the  women  in  about  half  an  hour 
— the  structure  being  composed  of  native  mats  and  poles. 
Though  so  easily  built,  however,  it  must  be  admitted  that  a Hot- 
tentot hut  is  not  unexceptionable  on  the  score  of  comfort.  “ I 
lived,”  says  Moffat,  “ nearly  six  months  in  this  native  hut,  which 
very  frequently  required  tightening  and  fastening  after  a storm. 
When  the  sun  shone,  it  was  unbearably  hot;  when  the  rain  fell, 
I came  in  for  a share  of  it ; when  the  wind  blew.  I had  fre- 
quently to  decamp  to  escape  the  dust;  and  in  addition  to  these 


MOFFAT,  THE  MISSIONARY. 


473 


little  inconveniences,  any  hungry  ©nr  of  a dog  that  wished  a 
night’s  lodging  would  force  itself  through  the  frail  wall,  and 
not  un frequently  deprive  me  of  my  meal  for  the  coming  day  ; 
and  I*  have  more  than  once  found  a serpent  coiled  up  in  a cor- 
ner. Nor  were  these  all  the  contingencies  of  such  a dwelling ; 
for,  as  the  cattle  belonging  to  the  village  had  no  fold,  I have 
been  compelled  to  start  up  from  a sound  sleep,  and  try  to  de- 
fend myself  and  my  dwelling  from  being  crushed  to  pieces  by 
the  rage  of  two  bulls  which  had  met  to  light  a nocturnal  duel.” 

Another  missionary  had  already  occupied  the  station,  but  he 
soon  removed,  and  Moffat  was  left  alone.  His  feelings  were 
alternately  those  of  joy  and  despondency.  He  was  in  a barren 
and  savage  country,  with  a salary  of  about  $125  a year — no 
grain,  therefore  no  bread, — and,  worse  than  all,  no  Christian 
society. 

It  was  not  long,  however,  before  he  was  cheered  in  his  work. 
The  state  of  the  chief’s  mind  had  been  doubtful,  but  now  he 
attended  the  services  with  great  regularity ; he  had  made  con- 
siderable progress  in  reading,  and  the  New  Testament  became 
his  constant  companion.  He  might  be  seen  under  the  shadow  of 
a great  rock,  for  most  of  the  day,  eagerly  perusing  its  pages. 
For  nights  he  would  sit  with  the  missionary  on  a large  stone  at 
the  latter’s  door,  and  sit  till  dawn,  talking  of  the  wonders  of  crea- 
tion, Providence,  redemption,  and  the  eternal  world.  This 
man  turned  out  a most  decided  Christian,  and  his  natural 
force  of  character  was  all  spent  in  his  subsequent  life  in  the 
service  of  righteousness  and  peace.  He  exhibited,  indeed,  a 
susceptibility  to  moral  impressions  surprising  in  one  of  his  de- 
graded race.  “ One  day,  when  seated  together,”  the  mission- 
ary relates,  “ I happened,  in  absence  of  mind,  to  be  gazing 
steadfastly  on  him.  It  arrested  his  attention,  and  he  modestly 
inquired  the  cause.  I replied,  4 1 was  trying  to  picture  to  my- 
self your  carrying  fire  and  sword  through  the  country,  and  I 
could  not  think  how  eyes  like  yours  could  smile  at  human 
■woe  ! ’ He  answered  not,  but  shed  a flood  of  tears ! lie  zeal- 
ously seconded  my  efforts  to  improve  the  people  in  cleanli- 
ness and  industry,  and  it  would  have  made  any  one  smile  to 
have  seen  Africaner  and  myself  superintending  the  school- 
children,  now  about  a hundred  and  twenty,  washing  themselves 
at  the  fountain.” 

It  was  impossible  to  make  Africaner’s  kraal  a permanent 
missionary  station.  It  was  therefore  resolved  to  look  about  for 
a locality  more  suitable.  Moffat,  all  things  being  ready,  after 
some  trouble  in  preparation,  started  with  about  thirty  men,  in- 


m 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


eluding  Africaner  himself.  lie  objected  to  so  many,  but  was 
assured  that  the  number  was  necessary  for  his  safety.  This 
journey,  which  occupied  several  weeks,  revealed  more  clearly 
the  dark  condition  of  the  heathen  mind.  The  people  had  no 
knowledge  of  God,  of  the  soul,  or  of  a future  state.  They  had 
no  idols — no  worship  of  any  kind.  Mr.  Campbell,  in  his  “ Life 
of  Africaner,”  says  that  he  asked  him,  on  one  occasion,  “ what 
his  views  of  God  were  before  he  had  enjoyed  the  benefit  of 
Christian  instruction,  and  his  reply  was,  that  he  never  thought 
anything  at  all  on  these  subjects : that  he  thought  about  nothing 
but  his  cattle.  lie  admitted  that  he  had  heard  of  a God,  he 
having  been  brought  up  in  the  Colony,  but  he  at  the  same 
time  stated  that  his  views  of  God  were  so  erroneous,  that  the 
name  suggested  no  more  to  his  mind  than  something  that 
might  be  found  in  the  form  of  an  insect,  or  in  the  lid  of  a snuff- 
box.” 

On  the  journey  homewards  from  this  tour  in  search  of  a 
more  suitable  place  for  a mission  station,  the  explorers  were 
frequently  exposed  to  dangers  from  lions.  Sometimes  these 
beasts  of  prey  became  so  bold  as  to  rush  into  the  midst  of  the 
travellers’  oxen  at  night,  and  scatter  them,  occasioning  long 
and  weary  searches  for  the  cattle  before  they  could  again  be 
collected.  In  one  such  instance,  Moffat  found  at  a spot  to 
which  he  had  been  led  by  the  appearance  of  smoke  an  object 
of  deep  and  painful  interest,  which  illustrates  the  barbarity  and 
unnatural  cruelty  of  the  natives.  There  was  a venerable-look- 
ing old  woman,  sitting  with  her  head  resting  on  her  knees. 
Being  addressed  kindly,  and  asked  who  she  was,  she  replied, 
“ I am  a woman  ; I have  been  here  four  days ; my  children 
have  left  me  here  to  die ! ” “ Your  children  ! ” “ Yes,  my  own 

children : three  sons  and  two  daughters.  They  are  gone  to  yon- 
der blue  mountains,  and  have  left  me  to  die.”  “ But  why  did 
they  leave  you  ?”  “1  am  old,  you  see,”  she  replied,  spreading 
out  her  hands;  “and  I am  no  longer  able  to  serve  them.  When 
they  kill  game,  I am  too  feeble  to  help  in  carrying  home  the  flesh ; 
I am  not  able  to  carry  wood  to  make  fire ; and  I cannot  carry  their 
children  on  my  back  as  I used  to  do.”  He  tried  to  persuade 
her  to  go  with  him  in  his  wagon,  and  promised  to  care  for 
her  ; but  all  in  vain.  She  became  convulsed  with  terror,  and, 
fearing  she  might  die  in  his  hands  if  he  had  her  carried  to  his 
escort,  he  was  compelled  to  leave  her,  having  supplied  her  with 
provisions  ; while,  in  reference  to  her  position,  she  said,  “ It  is 
our  custom  ; I am  nearly  dead  ; 1 do  not  want  to  die  again.” 
He  understood  afterwards  that  her  family,  observing  the  trav- 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


475 


ellers  near  to  where  they  had  left  their  mother,  had  returned, 
and  being  afraid  lest  the  white  man  should  punish  them,  had 
taken  her  home,  and  were  providing  for  her  with  more  than 
ordinary  care. 

Disappointed  in  respect  to  their  being  able  to  find  a more 
suitable  locality  for  the  work  of  the  mission,  the  party  endeav- 
ored to  reach  home  by  a shorter  route  farther  to  the  east,  on 
the  borders  of  the  Kalahari  Desert,  which  lies  between  Nama- 
qua-land  and  the  country  of  the  Bechuanas.  But  they  paid 
dearly  for  their  haste,  for  they  found  themselves  in  a plain  of 
deep  sand,  through  which  it  was  next  to  impossible  to  take 
their  wagon.  They  were  also  much  in  want  of  water.  They 
found  only  watermelons  where  water  might  have  been  ex- 
pected, and  these  were  as  bitter  as  gall. 

This  journey,  which  had  occupied  only  a few  weeks,  settled 
one  important  point;  namely,  the  impossibility  of  obtaining 
any  eligible  situation  for  a missionary  establishment  in  that 
desolate  region.  Such  rambling  visits  were,  therefore,  resumed 
on  a more  extended  scale,  the  services  at  home  being  conducted 
by  two  brothers  of  Africaner,  who  proved  very  efficient  assist- 
ants. These  expeditions  were  sometimes  attended  not  only  by 
privation,  but  also  by  danger.  Tying  his  Bible  and  hymn- 
book  in  a blanket  to  the  back  of  his  saddle— for  the  missionary 
now  rode  on  a borrowed  horse — he  would  start  with  his  inter- 
preter, who  rode  on  an  ox.  They  had  their  guns,  but  nothing 
in  purse  or  scrip  except  a pipe,  some  tobacco,  and  a tinder-box. 
They  had  no  bread,  but  managed  to  pick  up  a precarious  living 
by  the  way.  After  a hot  day’s  ride  to  reach  a village  before 
nightfall,  the  people,  on  their  arrival,  would  give  them  a 
draught  of  milk;  and  then,  old  and  young  assembling  in  a 
corner  of  the  cattle-fold,  all  would  listen  to  an  address  on  the 
subject  of  their  spiritual  safety.  When  this  was  over,  the 
preacher,  having  taken  another  draught  of  milk  and  renewed 
conversation  with  the  people,  would  lie  down  on  a mat,  and 
seek  repose  for  the  night. 

So  it  was  day  by  day.  After  another  address  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  missionary  would  start  for  another  village,  reaching 
which  in  the  evening,  travel-stained  and  hungry — his  companion 
and  he  having  breakfasted  on  milk  only — they  perhaps  found 
it  empty,  the  whole  population  having  been  obliged  to  go  else- 
where in  search  of  water  and  grass.  There  was  no  help  for  it. 
Hungry  and  thirsty,  they  would  take  possession  of  some  empty 
hut,  and  do  their  best  to  sleep,  but  were  not  unfrequently  dis- 
turbed in  the  night  by  hyenas,  jackals,  or  lions,  which  prowl- 


476 


MOFFAT , TUE  MISSIONARY. 


about  deserted  villages  in  search  of  what  may  have  been  left 
behind.  Next  morning,  having  breakfasted  on  water,  not  over- 
sweet  after  they  had  found  it,  they  would  follow  the  track  of 
the  departed  people,  thankful  if  they  succeeded  in  overtaking 
them.  Even  at  home  the  larder  was  not  always  full.  The 
missionary’s  food  was  milk  and  meat,  he  living  for  weeks  on 
the  one,  and  then  for  a time  on  the  other,  and  then  on  both  to- 
gether. All  was  well  so  long  as  lie  had  either;  but  sometimes 
both  failed,  and  there  were  somewhat  long  fasts  so  rigorous 
that  recourse  must  be  had  to  “ the  fasting-girdle.”  The  con- 
tents of  his  wardrobe  bore  the  same  impress  of  poverty.  He 
says,  “ The  supply  of  clothes  which  1 had  received  in  London 
were,  as  is  too  often  the  case,  made  after  the  dandy  fashion, 
and  1 being  still  a growing  youth,  they  soon  went  to  pieces.” 

Months  had  been  spent  in  search  of  a suitable  place  in  which 
usefully  to  settle,  but  in  vain,  when  Africaner  proposed  to  him 
to  visit  the  Griqua  country,  to  the  east  of  the  desert,  to  inspect 
a situation  offered  to  him  and  his  people,  to  which  he  might  re- 
move with  the  full  sanction  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Griquas.  Af- 
ter much  consultation  the  party  started,  consisting,  besides  Mof- 
fat, of  two  brothers  of  Africaner,  with  his  son,  and  a guide. 
They  had  about  eight  horses,  good  and  bad,  and  trusted  entirely 
for  food  to  what  they  might  shoot  on  the  way.  Their  course 
was  principally  on  the  north  side  of  the  Orange  River.  It  was 
toilsome  and  difficult  and  dangerous.  They  had  to  cross 
desert  plains  without  trees  or  shelter  of  any  kind.  At  some 
points  they  found  the  river  flowing  through  great  chasms  and 
overhung  with  stupendous  precipices;  while  anon  it  would 
spread  into  a translucent  lake,  with  towering  mimosas  and  wil- 
lows reflected  on  its  bosom.  There  were  very  many  varieties 
of  birds,  and  also  beasts  of  prey.  There  were  few  inhabitants 
on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Some  whom  they  did  meet  were 
kind,  but  others  would  give  them  neither  food  nor  drink,  but 
simply  point  out  to  them  a place  of  repose. 

On  one  occasion  Moffat  had  a narrow 'escape ; but  he  had 
more  work  to  do,  and  “ man  is  immortal  till  his  work  is  done.” 
The  party  had  reached  the  river  early  in  the  afternoon,  having 
made  a detour  to  escape  from  its  windings,  and  three  of  their 
number  had  gone  onward  to  a Bushman  village.  He  went, 
because  his  horse  would  go,  to  a small  pool,  the  water-course 
from  which  had  receded  to  the  main  stream,  or  had  evapo- 
rated. He  dismounted  and  drank,  but  immediately  on  raising 
himself  felt  an  unusual  taste  in  his  mouth  ; and  observing  that 
the  pool  was  temporarily  fenced  round,  it  occurred  to  him  that 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


477 


this  must  be  water  poisoned  for  the  purpose  of  killing  game. 
It  was  so.  When  he  reached  his  companions  and  arrived  at 
the  village,  he  made  signs  to  the  natives  that  he  wanted  the 
fruit  of  the  solatium,  for  he  was  violently  ill,  and  his  veins 
were  as  if  they  would  burst ; but  none  could  be  found.  lie 
was  soon  covered  with  a profuse  perspiration,  and  drank  largely 
of  pure  water ; and  although  the  strange  and  painful  sensation 
which  he  had  experienced  gradually  wore  away,  it  was  not  en- 
tirely removed  for  some  days. 

They  continued  their  journey,  hungry  and  thirsty,  and  exposed 
to  many  dangers.  Much  in  want  of  water,  the  missionary  was 
directed  by  a native  to  the  top  of  a hill,  where,  if  anywhere, 
water  might  be  expected.  When  he  had  reached  the  summit, 
he  happened  to  cough,  and  was  instantly  surrounded  bv  about 
a hundred  baboons,  some  of  them  of  gigantic  size,  ife  says : 
“ They  grunted,  grinned,  and  sprang  from  stone  to  stone,  pro- 
truding their  months,  threatening  an  instant  attack.  I kept 
parrying  them  with  my  gun,  which  was  loaded;  but  I knew 
their  character  and  disposition  too  well  to  fire,  for  if  I had 
wounded  one  of  them,  I should  have  been  skinned  in  five  min- 
utes. The  ascent  had  been  very  laborious,  but  I would  have 
given  anything  to  be  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill  again.  Some 
came  so  near  as  even  to  touch  my  hat  while  passing  projecting 
rocks.  It  was  some  time  before  I reached  the  plain,  when 
they  appeared  to  hold  a noisy  council,  either  about  what  they 
had  done  or  intended  doing.  Levelling  my  piece  at  two  that 
seemed  the  most  fierce,  I was  about  to  touch  the  trigger,  when 
a thought  occurred  to  me  : I have  escaped,  let  me  be  thankful ; 
therefore  I left  them  uninjured,  perhaps  with  the  gratification 
of  having  given  me  a fright.” 

Exhausted  and  anxious,  they  at  last  reached  Griqua  Town, 
where  the  missionaries,  Anderson  and  Helm,  gave  them  a 
hearty  welcome.  They  afterwards  visited  Daniel’s  Kuil,  and 
also  Lattakoo  (Litliako),  where  they  remained  several  days. 
This  was  the  first  time  Moffat  had  seen  the  Bechuanas,  among 
whom  he  afterwards  labored  for  so  many  years.  They  then 
returned  to  Griqua  Town,  and  immediately  set  out  on  their  re- 
turn home  to  Namaqua-land.  An  account  of  the  journey  was 
submitted  to  Africaner.  He  was  much  pleased  with  the  report 
which  was  given  in  regard  to  the  proposed  new  settlement,  and 
resolved  that  he  and  his  people  should  remove  thither. 

Before  the  migration  could  commence,  however,  Moffat 
found  it  necessary  to  visit  Cape  Town,  and  he  proposed  that 
Africaner  should  accompany  him.  To  the  latter  this  was  a 


478 


MOFFAT i THE  MISSIONARY. 


journey  of  no  small  risk.  He  had  to  pass  through  the  country 
of  the  Dutch  farmers  whom  he  had  robbed;  lie  was  an  outlaw, 
and  an  offer  of  one  thousand  rix  dollars  for  his  head  was  still 
outstanding.  It  was  settled  finally  that  Africaner  should  go 
disguised  as  Moffat’s  servant;  and  the  plan  succeeded  perfectly, 
though  from  the  time  they  reached  the  settlements  their  anxiety 
was  incessant.  At  one  farm,  about  half  way  to  the  Cape,  an 
interesting  incident  occurred,  which  is  thus  related  by  Mof- 
fat : 

44  On  approaching  the  place,  which  wTas  on  an  eminence,  I 
directed  my  men  to  take  the  wagon  to  the  valley  below,  while 
I walked  towards  the  house.  The  farmer,  seeing  a stranger, 
came  slowly  down  the  descent  to  meet  me.  When  within  a 
few  yards,  I addressed  him  in  the  usual  way,  and,  stretching 
out  my  hand,  expressed  my  pleasure  at  seeing  him  again.  lie 
put  his  hand  behind  him,  and  asked  me,  rather  wildly,  who  1 
was.  I replied  that  I was  Moffat,  expressing  my  wonder  that 
he  should  have  forgotten  me.  4 Moffat ! ’ he  rejoined,  in  a fal- 
tering voice ; 4 it  is  your  ghost ! ’ and  moved  some  steps  back- 
ward. 4 I am  no  ghost,’  I said.  4 Don’t  come  near  me  ! ’ he 
exclaimed, 4 you  have  been  long  murdered  by  Africaner.’  4 But 
I am  no  ghost,’  I said,  feeling  my  hands,  as  if  to  convince  him, 
and  myself  too,  of  my  materiality ; but  his  alarm  only  in- 
creased. 4 Everybody  says  you  were  murdered,  and  a man 
told  me  he  had  seen  your  bones  ; ’ and  he  continued  to  gaze  at 
me,  to  the  no  small  astonishment  of  the  good  wife  and  chil- 
dren, who  were  standing  at  the  door,  as  also  to  that  of  my  own 
people,  who  were  looking  on  from  the  wagon  below.  At 
length  he  extended  his  trembling  hand,  saying,  4 When  did 
you  rise  from  the  dead  ? ’ 

44  As  he  feared  my  presence  would  alarm  his  wife,  we  bent 
our  steps  towards  the  wagon,  and  Africaner  was  the  subject  of 
our  conversation.  I gave  him  in  a few  words  my  views  of  his 
present  character,  saying, 4 He  is  now  a truly  good  man.’  To 
which  he  replied,  4 1 can  believe  almost  anything  you  saj’,  but 
that  I cannot  credit.’  By  this  time  we  w^ere  standing  with  Af- 
ricaner at  our  feet ; on  his  countenance  sat  a smile,  he  well 
knowing  the  prejudices  of  some  of  the  farmers.  The  man 
closed  the  conversation  by  saying,  with  much  earnestness, 
4 Well,  if  what  you  assert  be  true  respecting  that  man,  I have 
only  one  wish,  and  that  is,  to  see  him  before  I die  ; and  when 
you  return,  as  sure  as  the  sun  is  over  our  heads,  I will  go  with 
you  to  see  him,  though  he  killed  my  owrn  uncle.’  1 was  not 
before  aware  of  this  fact,  and  now  felt  some  hesitation  whether 


MOFFAT,  TIIE  MISSIONARY. 


470 


to  discover  to  him  the  object,  of  his  wonder  ; but  knowing  the 
sincerity  of  the  funner  and  the  goodness  of  his  disposition,  I 
said,  4 This,  then,  is  Africaner.’  lie  started  back,  looking  in- 
tensely at  the  man  as  if  lie  had  just  dropped  from  the  clouds. 
‘ Arc  you  Africaner?’  he  exclaimed.  The  chief  arose,  doffed 
his  old  hat,  and,  making  a polite  bow,  answered,  ‘I  am.’  The 
farmer  seemed  thunder-struck  ; but  when,  by  a few  questions, 
he  had  assured  himself  of  the  fact  that  the  former  bugbear  of 
the  border  stood  before  him,  now  meek  and  lamb-like  in  his 
whole  deportment,  he  lifted  up  his  eyes  and  exclaimed,  4 O 
God,  what  a miracle  of  Thy  power!  what  cannot  Thy  grace  ac- 
complish ! ’ The  kind  farmer  and  his  no  less  hospitable  wife 
now  abundantly  supplied  our  wants ; but  we  hastened  our  de- 
parture lest  the  intelligence  might  get  abroad  that  Africaner 
was  with  me,  and  bring  unpleasant  visitors.” 

On  their  arrival  at  Cape  Town,  Africaner  was  introduced  to 
the  governor,  Lord  Charles  Somerset,  who  received  him  with 
much  affability  and  kindness,  and  expressed  the  pleasure  he 
had  in  seeing  thus  before  him  one  who  had  formerly  been  the 
scourge  of  the  country.  A deputation  from  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society,  consisting  of  the  Rev.  John  Campbell  and  the 
Rev.  Dr.  Philip,  wTas  at  this  time  at  the  Cape,  and  to  them 
Africaner  was  an  object  of  much  interest. 

The  purpose  of  Moffat’s  visit  to  the  cape  was  twofold : to 
procure  supplies,  and  to  introduce  the  chief  to  the  Colonial 
Government.  He  had  had  no  intention  but  that  of  returning 
to  his  present  port  in  Namaqua-land — at  least  for  a time  ; but 
the  deputation  desired  him  to  accompanj7  them  to  the  mission 
stations,  and  then  to  proceed  on  a mission  to  the  Bechuanas. 
Africaner  generously  offered  to  take  his  books  and  some  small 
quantity  of  furniture  which  he  had  purchased,  in  his  wagon 
across  the  continent  to  Lithako.  Something  in  the  way  of  fur- 
niture, more  than  he  had  hitherto  had,  had  become  necessary ; 
for  though  Moffat  had  till  now  been  alone,  Miss  Smith,  to 
whom  he  had  long  been  engaged,  arrived  from  England,  and 
he  now  found  “an  helpmeet  for  him” — one  who,  for  half  a 
century,  was  his  companion  in  his  wilderness  home,  and  who  was 
called  away  from  him  only  after  her  recent  return  to  England. 

The  removal  was  effected  so  far  as  the  missionary  was  con- 
cerned; but  before  settling  down  he  had  to  accompany  Mr. 
Campbell  on  his  visits  to  other  stations.  lie  bade  his  friend 
Africaner  a farewell  which  had  in  it  the  hope  of  a speedy 
future  meeting,  but  that  chief  died  within  two  years.  The 
Y/es ley ans  afterward  occupied  the  station  at  Namaqua-land, 


480 


MOFFAT, ; TIIE  MISSIONARY. 


making  Africaner’s  kraal  an  out-station;  for  the  people  did  not 
migrate  as  their  chief  had  intended. 

Respecting  the  Bcchnanas,  the  powerful  tribe,  or  collection 
of  tribes,  among  whom  Moffat  labored  for  so  many  years,  there 
was  but  little  known,  except  by  mere  report,  till  they  were 
visited  by  a colonist  with  a party  of  cattle-robbers  at  an  early 
period  of  the  colonial  history.  The  next  visit  was  by  the 
marauder  Bloom,  a Dutch  farmer.  lie  and  his  followers  com- 
mitted great  havoc  on  the  flocks  and  herds  of  the  Bechuanas, 
putting  to  death  vast  numbers  of  the  people.  In  1801,  two 
messengers  visited  the  mission  station  on  the  Orange  River  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  cattle  for  the  government  by  lawful 
trade,  in  the  way  of  barter,  and  also  went  to  the  Batlapis  and 
Batlaros,  the  two  nearest  tribes  of  the  Bechuana  nation,  for  the 
same  purpose.  ' This  visit  made  a favorable  impression  as  to  the 
character  and  disposition  of  the  Bechuanas  on  the  minds  of 
these  gentlemen.  A short  time  previously,  two  missionaries 
had  settled  on  the  banks  of  the  Knruman  River,  near  which 
the  Batlapis  and  others  were  at  that  time  living  under  the 
chief,  or  king,  Molehabangue.  He  was  kind  to  strangers. 
When  Messrs.  Evans  and  Hamilton  went  to  Lithako,  thirty 
miles  north-east  of  the  Knruman  River,  Mothibi,  the  king’s  son, 
with  his  council,  directed  them  to  the  Knruman  River,  ex- 
pecting them  there  to  trade  and  barter,  as  certain  former 
missionaries  had  done.  They  declined  to  follow  such  an  ex- 
ample. The  temporal  advantages  are  not  un frequently  the  in- 
ducement with  both  chiefs  and  people  when  they  receive  mis- 
sionaries. 

Dr.  Lichenstein  was  the  first  traveller  who  visited  the  Bat- 
lapis. This  was  in  1805.  The  king,  Molehabangue,  received 
him  with  kindness,  and  he  reports  well  of  the  people.  The 
next  tra  veil  ere  who  visited  these  parts  were  Dr.  Cowan  and 
Captain  Denovan.  They  went  under  the  auspices  of  the 
English  government,  with  a considerable  party  and  two  wag- 
ons. Their  expedition  occurred  in  1807.  Their  object 
was  to  pass  through  the  Bechuana  country,  and  proceed  to  the 
Portuguese  settlements  near  Mozambique.  They  passed  safely 
through  the  territory  of  the  Batlapis,  Barolongs,  Bamangketse, 
and  Bakuenas,  and  perished  at  no  great  distance  from  the 
eastern  coast,  but  by  what  means  lias  never  been  ascertained. 

Dr.  Burchell  visited  the  country  in  1812,  and  pushed  his 
scientific  and  other  researches  as  far  as  Cliue,  a considerable 
distance  north  of  Lithako,  and  it  was  his  intention  to  advance 
as  far  as  the  Portuguese  settlement  on  the  west  coast,  passing 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


481 


through  the  Kalahari  Desert  to  Congo ; but  his  attendants  de- 
serted him,  and  lie  was  compelled  to  desist. 

It  was  in  1815  that  Messrs.  Evans,  Hamilton,  Williams,  and 
Baker  left  England  to  proceed  to  Lithako.  They  reached  their 
destination  on  the  17th  of  February,  1810,  accompanied  by 
Adam  Kok,  a most  self-denying  and  useful  man,  and  several 
others  as  interpreters.  But  they  were  coldly  received  by  Mo- 
thibi,  whose  first  question  was,  “ What  have  you  brought  for 
barter?”  After  two  days  of  earnest  attempts  at  persuasion  to 
be  permitted  to  remain  where  they  were,  inasmuch  as  the 
greatest  number  of  people  were  there,  they  were  peremptorily 
told,  as  has  already  been  stated,  to  “ Go  to  the  Kuruman  River, 
and  traffic  there ; but  don’t  teach.  Here  there  is  no  water, 
there  are  no  trees,  and  the  people  have  customs,  and  will  not 
hear.”  They  were  obliged  to  return  to  Griqua  Town  and  wait 
for  an  opening.  In  one  of  their  journeys  from  that  centre, 
as  they  endeavored  to  make  themselves  useful,  they  were  told 
that  the  king  now  appeared  willing  to  receive  them.  And 
they  tried.  But  Mothibi,  with  twelve  hundred  of  his  men,  be- 
ing absent  for  a month,  they  were  compelled  again  to  return 
from  want  of  provisions.  The  prospect  was  somewhat  brighter, 
but  Mr.  Evans  was  discouraged,  and  relinquished  the  mission 
altogether.  A subsequent  attempt  by  Mr.  Hamilton  was  more 
successful. 

Mr.  Hamilton  was,  for  a time,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Read,  a 
sagacious  and  experienced  missionary  from  the  Colony ; but 
subsequently  he  was  alone:  Moffat  and  his  wife  being  with  Mr. 
Campbell,  the  deputy  from  London,  visiting  the  stations — a 
lather  remarkable  wedding-tour.  Hamilton  was  a missionary 
artisan.  While  Read  and  he  were  together,  Mothibi  mustered 
a large  expedition  against  the  Bakuenas,  nearly  two  hundred 
miles  to  the  north-east.  His  object  was  the  capture  of  cattle. 
But  he  was  foiled  in  his  purpose  : many  of  his  followers  were 
slain,  and  Mothibi  himself  w'as  wounded.  In  June,  1817,  lie  and 
his  people  removed  to  the  Kuruman  River.  Moffat’s  appoint- 
ment was  to  this  mission,  but  he  was  directed  first  to  attend  to 
certain  duties  at  Griqua  Town,  which  detained  him  for  a con- 
siderable time.  Hamilton,  in  his  loneliness,  had  a hard  lot  and 
many  difficulties.  He  had  great  manual  labor  in  digging  a 
long  water-course,  preparing  ground,  and  building.  lie  had,  in 
many  ways,  to  toil  with  his  hands  to  preserve  himself  and  fam- 
ily from  beggary.  Besides,  all  the  head  men  of  the  place 
acted  as  if  they  had  a right  to  everything  he  possessed — every- 
thing they  could  lay  their  hands  on.  llis  goods  were  stolen 
31 


482 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


when  it  was  known  he  was  conducting  some  religious  services 
and  could  not  possibly  return  to  disturb  the  thieves  before  a 
particular  time. 

In  May,  1821,  Moffat  joined  him,  and  from  that  day  to  this 
there  has  been  a strong  power  for  good  centring  at  Kuruman, 
and  extending  far.  These  two  men,  themselves  working  hard 
and  long,  have  had  their  labors  assisted  and  supplemented  by 
other  missionaries.  The  day,  Sabbath,  and  infant  schools  have 
been  fruitful  of  large  benefit ; the  church  services  have  been 
numerously  attended,  and  many  have  avowed  themselves 
Christians,  their  lives  being  consistent  with  such  avowal ; print- 
ing-presses have  been  set  up,  and  are  at  work,  to  supply  the  in- 
creasing demauds  of  a reading  population,  school-books,  and 
other  works,  as  well  as  the  whole  Bible  itself,  as  translated  by 
Moffat,  being  produced  at  the  station  ; and  now  a more  regu- 
lar school  of  instruction  for  native  teachers  is  being  organized, 
and  is  to  be  appropriately  called  “ The  Moffat  Institution  ” ; 
while  the  advanced  standard-bearers,  who  have  penetrated 
longer  distances  into  the  interior,  see  much  to  encourage  them 
onward.  Moffat  himself  has  returned  to  England  to  enjoy  the 
well-earned  repose  to  which  so  many  years  of  arduous  and  hon- 
orable toil  entitle  him.  But  he  still  seeks  the  promotion  of 
African  missions  by  frequent  addresses  and  other  means,  and, 
notwithstanding  his  advanced  years,  has  been  diligently  em- 
ployed on  a new  edition  of  the  Bible  in  the  language  of  the 
people  for  whom  he  has  done  so  much. 

Rain-makers  were  the  worst  opponents  of  Moffat  and  his 
companions,  as  they  are  of  all  missionaries  everywhere  in 
Africa;  and  their  pretended  arguments  against  the  teaching  of 
the  people  are  such  as  tell  upon  these  ignorant  and  besotted 
tribes.  For  example,  a wily  rain-maker,  who  was  the  oracle  of 
the  village  in  which  he  lived,  after  hearing  Moffat  enlarge  on 
one  occasion  on  the  subject  of  the  creation,  said,  “ If  you 
really  believe  that  that  Being  created  all  men,  then,  according 
to  reason,  you  must  also  believe  that  in  making  white  people  He 
has  improved  oil  His  work.  He  tried  His  hand  on  Bushmen  first, 
and  He  did  not  like  them  because  they  were  so  ugly,  and  their 
language  like  that  of  the  frogs.  He  then  tried  His  hand  on  the 
Hottentots,  but  these  did  not  please  Him  either.  He  then  ex- 
ercised His  power  and  skill  and  made  the  Bechuanas,  which  was 
a great  improvement.  And  at  last  He  made  the  white  people; 
therefore,  the  white  people  are  so  much  wiser  than  we  are  in 
making  walking  houses  (wagons),  teaching  the  oxen  to  draw 
them  over  hill  and  dale,  and  instructing  them  also  to  plough 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


483 


the  gardens,  instead  of  making  their  wives  do  it,  like  the  Bcch- 
uanas.”  Such  talk  receives  the  applause  of  the  people,  and 
the  arguments  of  the  missionary  arc  as  a feather  in  the  balance. 
And  yet  it  is  not  always  safe  to  be  a rain-maker.  When  rain 
will  not  come,  by  any  incantation,  the  poor  deceiver  is  caught 
in  his  own  craftiness;  and  if  he  does  not  flee  for  his  life,  when 
patient  waiting  has  been  exhausted,  he  is  not  unfrequcntly 
murdered.  The  following  incident,  as  described  by  Moffat, 
illustrates  at  once  the  superstition  of  the  Bechuanas,  the  methods 
by  which  the  rain-makers  maintain  their  influence,  and  the  way 
in  which  they  both  can  and  do  embarrass  the  efforts  of  the 
missionaries. 

“ Years  of  drought,”  says  Moffat,  “ had  been  severely  felt, 
and  the  natives,  tenacious  of  their  faith  in  the  potency  of  a man, 
held  a council  and  passed  resolutions  to  send  for  a rain-maker 
of  renown  from  the  Bakurutsi  tribe,  two  hundred  miles  north- 
east of  the  Kuruman  station. 

“ Rain-makers  have  always  most  honor  among  a strange  people, 
and  therefore  they  are  generally  foreigners.  The  heavens  had 
been  as  brass— -scarcely  a cloud  had  been  seen  for  months,  even 
on  the  distant  horizon.  Suddenly  a shout  was  raised,  and  the 
whole  town  was  in  motion : the  rain-maker  was  approaching. 
Every  voice  was  raised  to  the  highest  pitch  with  acclamations 
of  enthusiastic  joy.  ilc  had  sent  a harbinger  to  announce  his 
approach,  with  peremptory  orders  for  all  the  inhabitants  to 
wash  their  feet.  Every  one  seemed  to  fly  in  swiftest  obedience 
to  the  adjoining  river.  Noble  and  ignoble,  even  the  girl  who 
attended  to  our  kitchen-fire,  ran ; old  and  young  ran  ; all  the 
world  could  not  have  stopped  them.  By  this  time  the  clouds 
begau  to  gather,  and  a crowd  went  out  to  welcome  the  mighty 
man,  who.  as  they  imagined,  was  now  collecting  in  the  heavens 
his  stores  of  rain. 

“Just  as  he  was  descending  the  height  into  the  town,  the 
immense  concourse  danced  and  shouted,  so  that  the  very  earth 
rang,  and  at  the  same  time  the  lightnings  darted  and  the  thunders 
roared  in  awful  grandeur.  A few  heavy  drops  fell,  which  pro- 
duced the  most  thrilling  ecstasy  in  the  deluded  multitude, 
whose  shoutings  baffled  all  description.  Faith  hung  upon  the 
lips  of  the  impostor,  while  he  proclaimed  aloud  that  this  year 
the  women  must  cultivate  gardens  on  the  hills  and  not  In  the 
valleys,  for  the  latter  would  be  deluged.  After  the  din  had 
somewhat  subsided,  a few  individuals  came  to  our  dwellings  to 
treat  us  and  our  doctrines  with  derision.  ‘Where  is  your 
God  ? ’ one  asked  with  a sneer.  We  were  silent,  because  the 


484 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


wicked  were  before  ns.  ‘Have  you  not  seen  our  Morimo? 
Have  you  not  beheld  him  cast  from  his  arm  the  fiery  spears, 
and  rend  the  heavens  ? Have  you  not  heard  with  your  ears 
his  voice  in  the  clouds  ? ’ adding  with  an  interjection  of  supreme 
disgust, ‘You  talk  of  Jehovah  and  Jesus,  what  can  they  do?’ 
Never  in  my  life  do  I remember  a text  being  brought  home 
with  such  power  as  the  words  of  the  Psalmist,  ‘ Be  still,  and 
know  that  I am  God : I will  be  exalted  among  the  heathen.’ 

“ The  rain-maker  found  the  clouds  in  our  country  rather 
harder  to  manage  than  those  he  had  left.  lie  complained  that 
secret  rogues  were  disobeying  his  proclamations.  When  urged 
to  make  repeated  trials,  he  would  reply,  ‘ You  only  give  me 
sheep  and  goats  to  kill,  therefore  I can  only  make  goat-rain  ; 
give  me  fat  slaughter-oxen,  and  I shall  let  you  see  ox-rain.’ 
One  day,  as  he  was  taking  a sound  sleep,  a shower  fell,  on 
which  one  of  the  principal  men  entered  his  house  to  congratu- 
late him,  but,  to  his  utter  amazement  found  him  totally  insensi- 
ble to  what  was  transpiring.  ‘ Halloo,  by  my  father!  I 
thought  you  were  making  rain,’  said  the  intruder ; when  the 
magician,  arising  from  his  slumbers  and  seeing  his  wife  sitting 
on  the  floor,  shaking  a milk-sack  in  order  to  obtain  a little 
butter  to  anoint  her  hair,  he  replied,  pointing  to  the  opera- 
tion of  churning, ‘Do  you  not  see  my  wife  churning  rain  as 
fast  as  she  can  ? ’ This  reply  gave  entire  satisfaction,  and  it 
presently  spread  through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  town, 
that  the  rain-maker  had  churned  the  shower  out  of  a milk-sack. 
The  moisture  caused  by  this  shower  was  dried  up  by  a scorch- 
ing sun ; many  long  weeks  followed  without  a single  cloud, 
and  when  they  did  appear,  they  were  sometimes  seen,  to  the 
great  mortification  of  the  conjurer,  to  discharge  their  watery 
treasures  at  an  immense  distance. 

“ The  rain  maker  had  recourse  to  numerous  expedients  and 
stratagems,  and  continued  his  performances  for  many  weeks. 
All  his  efforts,  however,  proving  unsuccessful,  he  kept  himself 
very  secluded  for  a fortnight,  and,  after  cogitating  how  he 
could  make  his  own  cause  good,  he  appeared  in  the  public  fold, 
aud  proclaimed  that  he  had  discovered  the  cause  of  the 
drought.  All  were  now  eagerly  listening;  he  dilated  some 
time,  until  he  had  raised  their  expectations  to  the  highest  pitch, 
when  he  revealed  the  mystery.  ‘ Do  you  not  see,  when  clouds 
come  over  us,  that  Hamilton  and  Moffat  look  at  them  ? ’ This 
question  receiving  a hearty  and  unanimous  affirmation,  he 
added  that  our  white  faces  frightened  gway  the  clouds,  and 
they  ueed  not  expect  rain  so  long  as  we  were  in  the  country. 


MOFFAT ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


485 


This  was  a home  stroke,  and  it  was  an  easy  matter  for  ns  to 
calculate  what  the  influence  of  such  a charge  would  be  on  the 
public  mind.  We  were  very  soon  informed  of  the  evil  of  our 
conduct,  to  which  we  plead  guilty,  promising  that  we  were  not 
aware  that  we  were  doing  wrong,  being  as  anxious  as  any  of 
them  for  rain ; we  would  willingly  loot:  to  our  chins,  or  the 
ground  all  the  day  long,  if  it  would  serve  their  purpose.  It 
was  rather  remarkable,  that  much  as  they  admired  my  long 
black  beard,  they  thought  that,  in  this  case  it  was  most  to 
blame.  However,  this  season  of  trial  passed  over  to  our  great 
comfort,  though  it  was  followed  for  some  time  with  many  in- 
dications of  suspicion  and  distrust.” 

The  government  of  these  people  is  both  monarchical  and 
patriarchal.  Each  tribe  has  its  chief  or  king,  and  his  oftiee  is 
hereditary.  There  being  many  towns  or  villages  in  a tribe, 
each  of  these  has  also  its  liead,  and  under  him  there  are  subor- 
dinate chiefs.  These  are  the  aristocracy  of  the  nation,  and  all 
acknowledge  the  supremacy  of  the  principal  chief.  In  the 
jpitslios , or  parliament,  or  public  meeting,  great  plainness  of 
speech  is  sometimes  used.  But  such  meetings  are  held  only 
on  great,  very  great  occasions.  Tiiese  utterances  of  the  nobles 
are  the  pulse  of  the  nation,  however,  and  a wise  ruler  will  not 
fail  to  be  guided  by  them.  Private  wrongs — such  as  thefts, 
murders,  and  other  crimes — are  left  to  the  avenger.  The  peo- 

f)le  are  most  tenacious  of  their  customs.  These  are  a great 
lindrance  to  progress.  Polygamy  is  a strong  barrier  both  to 
religion  and  civilization.  The  women  have  by  far  the  heavier 
tasks : they  cultivate  the  fields,  build  the  houses  and  fences, 
and  bring  in  the  firewood ; while  the  men  hunt,  watch  the  cat- 
tle, milk  the  cows,  and  prepare  their  furs  and  skins  for  mantles. 
Such  being  the  division  of  labor,  the  men  find  it  convenient 
to  have  a number  of  wives.  Notwithstanding  all  this,  however, 
the  Bechuanas  are  superior  to  many  other  tribes.  They  are 
savages  only  in  a restricted  sense;  but  their  susceptibility  to 
religions  impression  is  most  obtuse.  If  it  be  attempted  to  con- 
vince them  that  the}7  are  sinners,  they  will  boldly  affirm  that 
there  is  not  a sinner  in  the  tribe. 

Missionary  work  among  sncli  people  must  in  itself  always  be 
very  difficult;  and  there  are  also  other  discouragements.  At 
Knruman  there  was,  in  the  first  instance,  a great  deal  of  manual 
labor.  Houses  had  to  be  built  for  worship  and  for  teaching 
and  for  residence;  workshops  had  to  be  constructed,  and  the 
station  being  several  miles  from  the  river,  a water-ditch  had  to 
be  dug;  and  as  this  passed  through  the  gardens  of  the  natives, 


483 


MOFFAT ; TUB  MISSIONARY. 


the  water  was  not  seldom  cut  off  before  it  reached  the  homo 
of  those  who  had  prepared  the  way  for  it. 

The  acquisition  of  the  language  is  always,  in  such  circum- 
stances, an  object  of  the  first  importance,  but  it  is  often  a most 
toilsome  work.  There  is  neither  time  nor  place  for  retirement, 
and  no  interpreter  worthy  of  the  name.  The  reducing  of  an 
oral  language  to  writing  requires  much  pains  on  the  part  of  a 
missionary;  but  it  is  a thing  that  must  be  done — he  must  be 
able  to  convey  his  meaning  in  words  of  his  own  choosing.  In 
speaking,  it  is  safer  to  trust  to  an  imperfect  utterance  than  it 
is  to  employ  an  interpreter.  When,  one  makes  a mistake,  the 
natives  will  smile ; whereas,  when  an  interpreter  has  to  render 
one’s  meaning,  he  not  unfreqnently  puts  his  own  conception 
into  the  statement.  It  has  always  been  a prolonged  and  ardu- 
ous task  for  Europeans  to  master  the  African  tongues,  there 
being  no  rules  other  than  mere  usage,  and  usage  being  far 
from  uniform  in  different  circumstances.  Natives,  however, 
are  not  so  charitable  towards  an  interpreter  who  knows  their 
language,  as  they  are  to  a stranger  of  whom  they  know  that  he 
cannot  fully  express  himself. 

For  many  years  Moffat  continued  his  missionary  labors  at 
the  Kuruman,  making  many  excursions  to  distant  tribes,  and 
gradually  extending  the  outposts  of  civilization  farther  into 
the  interior.  Before  he  retired  from  the  good  work,  he  had 
seen  the  missionary  stations  pushed  as  far  as  the  village  of 
Kolobeng,  on  tlie  head  waters  of  the  Limpopo,  in  lat.  24°  S. 
Stations  were  established  among  the  Barolongs,  who  live  to  the 
north  of  the  Bechuana  country,  among  the  Bamangwato 
Mountains;  also  among  the  Basntos,  Maulatces, and  Corannas. 
Moshesh,  King  of  the  Basutos,  had  long  desired  a missionary, 
and  in  1833  Messrs.  Casilis,  Arbousset,  and  Goselin,  connected 
with  the  French  Evangelical  Society,  arrived  in  the  country. 
They  have  since  been  reinforced  by  the  Wesleyan  and  other 
societies,  so  that  now,  in  a land  which  was  formerly  the  theatre 
of  rapine  and  murder,  there  is  a healthy  civilizing  influence 
exercised  over  many  thousands  of  people. 

Moffat’s  account  of  his  various  missionary  journeys  is  highly 
interesting;  but  it  would  be  useless  to  follow  them  in  detail, 
since  most  of  the  region  which  he  traversed,  and  many  of  the 
tribes  which  he  met,  were  subsequently  examined  more  fully 
bv  other  travellers,  and  arc  described  in  preceding  chapters. 
The  only  other  extract  which  we  shall  make  from  his  narrative 
will  be  the  following  description  of  a curious  people  who  live 
in  trees — a tribe  never  before  seen  by  a white  man — whom 


MOFFAT , TIIE  MISSIONARY. 


487 


lie  fell  in  with  on  a journey  which  he  undertook  in  1820  to  the 
country  of  the  Matsebclc,  lying  in  the  unknown  territory  north- 
east of  the  Kuruman,  between  the  Limpopo  and  Zambezi  rivers. 
Just  before  reaching  the  frontier  of  the  Matscbele  country, 
the  party  encamped  beside  a lino  rivulet.  “My  attention,” 


MOSIIESII,  CHIEF  OF  TIIE  BASUTOS. 


says  Moffat,  “was  arrested  by  a beautiful  and  gigantic  tree 
standing  in  a defile  leading  into  an  extensive  and  woody 
ravine  between  a high  range  of  mountains.  Seeing  some  in- 
dividuals employed  on  the  ground  under  its  shade,  and  the 
conical  points  of  what  looked  like  houses  in  miniature  pro- 
truding through  its  evergreen  foliage,  I proceeded  thither,  and 
found  that  the  tree  was  inhabited  by  several  families  of  15a- 
koncs,  the  aborigines  of  the  country.  T ascended  by  the 
notched  trunk,  and  found,  to  my  amazement,  no  less  than 


488 


MOFFAT, ; THE  MISSIONARY. 


seventeen  of  these  aerial  abodes,  and  three  others  unfinished. 
On  reaching  the  topmost  lint,  about  thirty  feet  from  the  ground, 
I entered  and  sat  down.  Its  only  furniture  was  the  hay  which 
covered  the  floor,  a spear,  a spoon,  and  a bowlful  of  locusts. 
Not  having  eaten  anything  that  day,  and,  from  the  novelty  of 
my  situation,  not  wishing  to  return  immediately  to  the  wagons, 
I asked  a woman  who  sat  at  the  door  with  a babe  at  her 
breast,  permission  to  eat.  This  she  granted  with  pleasure,  and 
soon  brought  me  more  in  a powdered  state.  Several  more 
females  came  from  the  neighboring  roosts,  stepping  from 
branch  to  branch  to  see  the  stranger,  who  was  as  great  a curi- 
osity to  them  as  the  tree  was  to  him.  I then  visited  the  differ- 
ent abodes,  which  were  on  several  principal  branches.  The 
structure  of  these  houses  was  very  simple.  An  oblong  scaffold, 
about  seven  feet  wide,  is  formed  of  straight  sticks ; on  one  end 
of  this  platform  a small  cone  is  formed,  also  of  straight  sticks, 
and  thatched  with  grass.  A person  can  nearly  stand  upright 
in  it ; the  diameter  of  the  floor  is  about  six  feet.  The  house 
stands  on  the  end  of  the  oblong,  so  as  to  leave  a little  square 
space  before  the  door.  On  the  day  previous  I had  passed 
several  villages,  some  containing  forty  houses,  all  built  on  poles 
about  seven  or  eight  feet  from  the  ground,  in  the  form  of  a 
circle ; the  ascent  and  descent  are  by  a knotty  branch  of  a tree 
placed  in  front  of  the  house.  In  the  centre  of  the  circle  there 
is  always  a heap  of  the  bones  of  the  game  they  have  killed. 
Such  were  the  domiciles  of  the  impoverished  thousands  of  the 
aborigines  of  the  country,  who,  having  been  scattered  and 
peeled  by  Mosilikatse,  had  neither  herd  nor  stall,  but  subsisted 
on  locusts,  roots,  and  the  chase.  They  adopted  this  mode  of 
architecture  to  escape  the  lions  which  abound  in  that  country.” 
It  was  Moffat’s  daughter  whom,  as  we  have  seen,  Living- 
stone married  almost  at  the  outset  of  his  career  in  Africa ; 
and  in  him  Moffat  found  a successor  who  carried  forward  glori- 
ously the  great  work  which  he  himself  had  so  nobly  begun. 


INDEX 


Abeghan 

Aboo  Sammat 434 

Abyssinia 27 

Abyssinians,  the 23 

Adamaua 34,  70 

Adimokoo 452 


Africa,  origin  of  the  native,  7 ; its  geographical 
position,  8 ; dimensions,  8 ; physical  geography, 
8;  lake  and  river  systems,  n ; climate,  13; 
vegetation,  15  ; quadrupeds,  17 ; birds,  19 ; 
fish,  20  ; inhabitants,  20 ; religion,  26 ; political 
and  territorial  divisions,  26  ; islands,  34. 


“African  Association,”  the 3 

Africaner 472,  478 

Agades 62 

Akka,  the 452,  456 

Albert  Nyanza, .. 294,  3x2,  398 

Alexander,  the  explorer 4 

Algiers 26 

Alligators 128 

American  Board  of  Missions 466 

American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions 469 

American  Episcopal  Board  of  Missions 469 

American  Missionary  Association 470 


Andersson,  Carl  Johann,  58  ; associates  with 
Francis  Galton  in  an  expedition  for  exploring 
South  Africa,  152 ; starts  for  Lake  Ngami, 
132  ; account  of  the  Damaras,  152  ; discovers 
Lake  Omanbonde,  153 ; penetrates  to  the 
country  of  the  Ovambos,  154  ; account  of  the 
land  and  people,  155 ; interview  with  King 
Nangoro,  156  ; abortive  attempt  to  reach  the 
Kunene  River,  1 58  ; second  attempt  to  reach 
I-ake  Ngami,  158 ; drives  a herd  of  cattle 
down  the  coast  to  Cape  Town,  159;  sets  out 
again  for  the  I^ake,  159  ; night  adventure  with 
wild  beasts,  160  ; arrives  at  Lake  Ngami,  163  ; 
discovers  and  ascends  the  River  Teoge,  164  ; 
disappointed  in  an  attempt  to  reach  I.ibcbe, 
165 ; travels  alone  across  the  wilderness  to 
Namaqua-land,  166  ; returns  to  Europe,  166 ; 
second  attempt  to  reach  the  Kunene  River, 


166  ; struggles  in  the  wilderness,  167 ; com- 
pelled to  return,  167  ; second  journey  to  Lake 
Omanbond6,  168 ; hunting  feats,  168  ; third 
attempt  to  reach  the  Kunene  River,  168  ; dis- 
covers the  Okavango  River,  169 ; prostrated 
with  fever  and  compelled  to  turn  back,  170  ; 
narrow  escapes,  170;  discovers  the  Kunene 
River,  170  ; death,  170. 


Anengue  Lake 204 

Angola 28 

Animals  of  Africa ..  17 

Annobom 34 

Antelopes 18 

Apingi,  the 218 

Arabs,  the 2,  22 

Ascension 34 


Ashantee,  81 ; geographical  position,  81  ; physi- 
cal geography,  81 ; climate,  81 ; animals  and 
productions,  82 ; the  people,  82  ; social  orgaa 
ization,  82  ; customs  and  industries,  83  ; laws 
and  religion,  84 ; history,  85 ; Sir  Gai  net 
Wolseley’s  expedition,  86. 


Ashiras,  the 213,  216 

Asua  River 303,  307 

Atbara  River 290 

Atlas  Mountains,  the it 


Babisa,  the 380 

Baghirmi 34 

Bahr-el-Ghazal 56,  290,  421,  425 

Baikie,  Dr 57 

Bakalai,  the 209 

Baker,  Sir  Samuel,  292 ; organizes  an  expe- 
dition to  search  for  Speke  and  Grant,  292 ; 
explores  the  Atbara  and  the  Blue  Nile,  293  ; 
difficulties  at  Khartoom  and  Gondokoro,  293  ; 
meeting  w ith  Speke  and  Grant,  293  , resolves 
to  complete  their  work,  295  ; hostility  of  the 
traders,  295  ; march  to  Latooka,  296  alliance 
with  Ibrahim,  297  ; arrival  of  Tarrangollfi.  299  ; 
conflict  with  the  natives,  299 ; residence  at 


490 


INDEX. 


Tarrangolld,  300 ; visit  to  Obbb,  301  ; Kat- 
chiba  the  sorcerer-chief,  302  ; returns  to  La- 
tooka,  303  ; prostrated  with  fever,  304  ; collects 
information  regarding  the  interior,  305  ; sets 
out  for  Unyoro,  306;  the  Nile  reacned,  307; 
difficulties  with  the  natives,  30S  : arrives  at 
Kamrasi’s  capital,  309  ; insulted  by  Kamrasi, 
309  ; resumes  the  march,  310 : discovers  the 
Albert  Nyanza  Lake,  31 1 ; voyage  on  the  lake, 
313  ; mouth  of  the  Victoria  Nile,  314  : ascends 
the  river  in  canoes,  317  ; Murchison  Falls, 
318  ; attacked  by  a hippopotamus,  3x9  ; march 
by  land  up  the  river,  320  ; deserted  by  his 
guides,  323  ; sufferings  and  sickness,  324  ; in- 
vited to  Kamrasi’s  capital,  325  ; sets  out  for 
Gondokoro,  326 : arrival,  327 ; returns  to 

England  and  is  created  a Knight,  328  ; accepts 
a commission  for  the  Khedive  of  Egypt  to  sup- 
press the  slave-trade  in  the  Nile  region,  329  ; 
his  expeditionary  force,  329 ; the  “ Forty 
Thieves,”  330  ; war  with  the  Baris,  330  ; limit 
of  navigation  of  the  Nile,  331  ; march  to  Ma- 
sindi,  332  ; the  King  attempts  to  poison  him, 
332  ; retreat  to  Fatiko,  333  ; final  triumph  over 
the  slave-traders,  333  ; organizes  the  new  gov- 
ernment, 333  ; returns  to  England,  334. 


Balonda,  the 130 

Bamangwato,  the . 108 

Bambarra .33 

Bambarre 401 

Bango,  King  of  the  Oroungou 188 

Bangweolo,  Lake 369,  387,  392,  414 

Baobab-tree 63,  64,  no 

Baraka 184 

Barbary  States 26 

Bari-country 330 

Barmen 152 

Barnim,  Freiherr  von 419 

Barotse,  the 122 

Barrow,  the  explorer 4 


Barth,  Overweg,  and  Richardson,  61  ; their 
expedition  to  Northern  Africa,  61 ; set  out  from 
Tripoli,  61  ; reach  Murzook,  62  ; Agades  and 
its  Sultan,  62  ; Barth  captured  by  robbers,  62  ; 
they  reach  Kano,  65  ; Barth’s  description  of 
the  town,  65  ; Death  of  Richardson,  67  ; Barth 
goes  on  to  Kukawa,  67  ; visits  Lake  Tsad,  in 
company  with  Overweg,  69  ; Overweg  explores 
the  Lake  in  a boat,  69  ; Barth  makes  a journey 
to  Adamaua,  69  ; reaches  the  Benue  (Niger), 
71  ; forbidden  to  proceed  further,  and  returns 
to  Kukawa,  72  ; Barth  and  Overweg  make  an 
excursion  to  Kanem,  74 ; encounter  robber 
tribes  and  are  obliged  to  turn  back,  74  : Barth 
joins  an  expedition  against  Mandixra,  75 ; 
slave-hunting,  76 ; Barth  makes  a journey  to 


Baghirmi,  77  ; reaches  the  Shary,  79  : is  de- 
tained in  Baghirini,  79 ; Death  of  Overweg, 
80 ; Barth  journeys  to  Timbucioo  where  he  is 
detained  for  nexrly  two  years,  80  : explores  the 


middle  course  of  the  Niger,  80;  returns  to 
Europe,  81. 

Basle  Missionary  Society  469 

Batoana,  the 163,  166 

Batoka,  the  149 

Batoka  Salutations 149 

Bayeiye,  the 96 

Beaufort,  Admiral  Sir  Francis 2 

Bechuanas,  the 89,  108,  480,  485 

Bedingficld,  Captain 58 

Beko,  Dr  4,  54 

Benguela 28 

Benguela,  San  Felipe  de 171 

Bennett,  James  Gordon 355 

Berberines,  the 20 

Berbers,  the  20,  2t 

Biagano 203 

Bihe 171,  175 

Blue  Nile 53,  290 

Blacksmiths,  superstition  concerning 62 

Bochart 2 

Boers,  the  31,  91,  105 

Bomby,  the  Akka 454 

Bongo,  the 431 

Bornu 34 

Bourbon 34 

Brotherhood,  ceremony  of  making 241 

Brown,  the  explorer 4 

Bruce,  James 42 

Buffalo,  the 19 

Burchell,  Dr 4,  480 

Burckhardt,  John  Louis 46 

Burial  customs  on  the  Nyassa 343 


Burton,  Cai*t.  Richard  F.,  ; sets  out  from 

Zanzibar  on  an  expedition  to  Lake  Tangan- 
yika, 238  ; account  of  the  maritime  country 
and  tribes;  239  ; arrives  at  Zungomcro,  240 ; 
crossing  the  mountains,  241  ; the  tiri/eeza, 
242  ; terrible  ascent  of  a mountain  pass,  243  ; 
account  of  the  mountain  region  and  its  inhab- 
itants, 245  ; crossing  Ugogo,  246 ; account  of 
the  country  and  people,  247  : the  “ Land  of 
the  Moon,”  250 ; arrival  at  Kazeh,  250 ; ac- 
count of  Unyamwczi  and  its  inhabitants,  253  ; 
the  march  to  the  lake,  258  ; arrival  at  Ujiji, 
259  ; exploring  Lake  Tanganyika,  261  ; resi- 
dence at  Ujiji,  263  : account  of  the  country 
and  people,  263  : leturn  to  Kazeh.  265  ; Speke 
discovers  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  266  ; arrival  at 


Zanzibar,  266. 

Bushman  method  of  killing  lions 112 

Bushmen ’ 25,  100 


INDEX. 


491 


Cailland,  the  explorer 4 

Caillu,  the  explorer . 

Cambyscs 

Cameroon  s,  the 11 

Cnmma-country,  the 

Campbell,  John 

Canaries,  the 

Cannibalism aoi,  439,  450 

Cape  Colony 

Cape  Lopez 

Cape  Verde  Islands 

Carthaginans,  the 

Casein  be 387,  389,  390 

Cassange 

Central  Africa. 33,  328 

Chambers  River 359,  380,  387,  415 

Chibisa, - 

Chiboque,  the 136,  180 

Chikapa  River 143 

Chikongo,  chief  of  the  Okavangari 169 

Chisera  River 386 

Chitambo 415 

Chitapangwa 381 

Chobe  River 101,  113,  12s 

Christian  Missions  in  Africa 464 

Chuma  376,  415 

Church  of  England  Missionary  Society 466 

Church  Missionary  Society  of  London 4 

Circumcision  among  the  Bechuanas  and  Kaf- 

fres 108 

Clapperton,  Captain  Hugh 48 

Climate  of  Africa .* 13 

Climate  of  Central  Africa 394 

Coanza  River 171 

Congo 28 

Congo  River,  the 12,  58,  373 

Comoro  Isles 34 

Copts,  the 20 

Cowan,  Dr 480 

Crocodiles 348 

Crowther,  Samuel 468 

Dahomey 28 

Damaras,  the 152 

Darfur 34 

Death,  native  dread  of 21 1 

Decken,  Baron  von 54 

Deiisle 2 

Delta  of  the  Zambesi 335 

Denham,  Lieut. -Col.  Dixon 49 

Denovan,  Captain 4S0 

Dilolo,  Lake 133 

Dinka,  the 426 

Du  Chaili.U,  Paul.  B.,  59  ; leaves  America  for 

the  Gaboon  River,  184  ; account  of  Mpongwe  or 

coast  tribes,  184  ; their  method  of  choosing  a 


King,  186  : starts  for  the  interior,  188  ; King 
Bango’s  ball,  188  ; discoveries  in  natural  his- 
tory, 189  ; account  of  the  Shckianis,  190 ; 
returns  to  the  Gaboon,  and  sets  out  for  the 
country  of  the  Fan,  192  ; first  sight  of  gor- 
illas, 193 ; reaches  the  Fan-country,  194 ; 
gorilla  hunt,  195  ; visits  the  king,  197  ; native 
elephant  hunt,  199  ; account  of  the  Fan,  199  ; 
returns  to  the  coast,  202  ; establishes  his  head- 
quarters at  Biagano  or  “ Washington,”  203  ; 
capture  of  a young  gorilla,  203  ; starts  again 
for  the  interior,  204  ; discovers  a new  ape, 
205  • gorilla-hunting,  206  ; discovers  the  Koo- 
loo-Kamba  ape,  207 ; native  hunter  killed  by 
a gorilla,  208  ; returns  to  the  coast,  209  ; ac- 
count of  the  Bakalai,  209  ; sets  out  for  Ashira- 
land,  213  ; reception  by  the  Ashiras,  213  ; visit 
to  the  king,  215  ; account  of  the  Ashiras,  216  ; 
penetrates  to  Apingi-Iand,  217  ; account  of  the 
Apingi,  218  ; elected  King  of  the  Apingi,  220  ; 
return  to  coast  and  end  of  his  explorations, 
220 ; account  of  the  gorilla,  220. 

Duncan,  the  explorer 4 

Dyoor  River 429 

Dyoor  tribe 430 

Egypt : 26 

Eland,  the 18 

Elephant,  the 19 

Ellis,  Rev.  Wm 39 

Ellyria 296 

Ethiopic  Race,  the 23 

Evans,  the  Missionary 480 

Faloro 289 

Fan,  the  cannibal  tribe 194,  199,  202 

Farquhar 357 

Fashoda 422 

Fatiko 307,  333 

Fernando  Po 34 

Fernand  Vaz  River 206 

Fetichism 464 

Fetich-seminary 233 

Frere,  Sir  Bartle,  his  Mission  to  Zanzibar..  ..439 

Gaboon  River 184 

Gallas,  the 24 

Galos,  the 232 

Gabon,  Francis 152,  159 

Gassiot,  the  explorer 5 

Gazawa 64 

Gazelle  River 56,  290,  421,  425 


Geer . . 


..4=0 


Ghanze t59 

Ghattas 422 

Giraffe,  the 17 


492 


INDEX. 


Glasgow  Missionary  Society 466 

Gnu,  the 17 

Gold  Coast . . .28 

Gondokoro 289 

Gorilla,  the 193,  195,  203,  206,  208,  220 

Goumbi 206 

Grain  Coast 28 

Grass-barrier,  the 425 

Green,  the  elephant-hunter 166,  170 

Griqua-land 30 

Guinea  Coast 27 

Hamilton,  the  missionary 480 

Harris,  the  explorer 4 

Hartmann,  Dr 419 

Herodotus 1 

Hippopotamus,  the 17 

Hippopotamus-hunters 412 

Honey -guide,  the 338 

Homemann,  Frederic  Conrad 46 

Hottentots 25 

Houssa 33 

Hovas,  the 36 

Huet 2 

Humboldt  Institution,  the 419 

Imaum  of  Muscat 460 

Inhabitans  of  Africa. . 20 

Itawa-Lunda 382,  385 

Ivory  Coast 28 

Ivory  merchants 421 

Jews  in  Africa 23 

Joliba,  or  Niger,  the 13 

Jondo-Goiro,  King  of  the  Galos 235 

Jononga  Lake 233 

Kabebo,  capital  of  Moluwa 181 

Kabyles,  the 21 

Kaffraria,  British 29 

KafFres,  the 24 

Kagan  da 168 

Kalahari  Desert 10,  94,  418 

Kalongosi  River 386 

Kamrasi  King  of  Unyoro.  .288,  308,  309,  324,  325 

Karuma  Falls 289 

Kano 34,  65 

Karagwe 273 

Kamak  Ix>gon 77 

Kasai  River 135 

Katanga 391 

Katchiba,  the  sorcerer- chief 302,  304 

Katema 133 

Katsena 64 

Kawara,  or  Niger,  the 12,  57 


Kazeh 250,  27* 

Kenia,  Mount s>  54 

Kilimandjaro,  Mount 5,  54 

Kimbundas,  the 171,  178 

K|rk*  Dr 337 

Kissangi,  the 1?3 

K issere  (Arabian  bread)  428 

Kitangule  River 277 

Kizinga 396 

Kobshi,  curious  custom  connected  with 73 

Koffee  Kalkalli,  King  of  Ashantee 84 

Kolobeng 52 

Kom&dugu,  the 67 

Kombala  176 

Kooloo-Kamba,  the 207 

Kordofan 36 

Krapf,  Dr 5 

Kukawa 68 

Kunagera i 456 

Kunene  (or  Cunene)  River 158,  166 

Kuruman 89 

Lacerda,  Dr 3qo 

Laing,  Alexander  Gordon 50 

I^ke  Anengue 204 

Lake  Bangweolo 369,  387,  392,  414 

Lake  Dilolo i3$ 

Lake  Liemba 38i 

Lake  Lincoln 402 

Lake  Moero 584,  386 

Lake  Mofwe 387 

Lake  Ngami 96,  163,  165 

Lake  Nyassa 340 

Lake  Omanbonde 153,  16S 

Lake  Shirwa 340 

Lake  Tanganyika 259,  358,  367,  399 

Lander,  Richard 49 

Latooka 296 

Latookas,  the 298 

Lattakoo 477 

Lechulatebe,  chief  of  the  Batoana.97, 99, 160,  163 
Leeambye  River  (same  as  Zambesi). 

Leeba  River 123,  128,  129,  132 

Libebe 164,  166 

I.iemba,  Lake 381 

Lincoln,  Lake 402 

Lingi-Lingi  Mts 174 

Liny  anti 1x4 

Lion,  the  African 19 


Livingstonf,  David,  his  early  years,  87 : joins 
the  London  Missionary  Society,  88  : arrives  a • 
Cape  Town,  88  : reaches  Kuruman,  89  ; settles 
among  the  Bechuanas,  89 ; removes  to  Ma- 
botsa,  89  ; adventure  with  a lion,  89  ; attaches 
himself  to  Sechele’s  tribe,  91 ; removes  with 
them  to  Kolobeng,  92  ; starts  for  I.ake  Ngami, 


INDEX. 


493 


93 ; reaches  the  Zouga,  95 ; discovers  the 
Lake,  96  ; fails  in  an  attempt  to  penetrate  to 
the  iiakololo  country,  98  ; returns  to  Kclobeng, 
98 ; makes  a second  attempt  to  reach  Sebitu- 
anc,  99 ; succeeds  in  a third  attempt,  100 ; 
visits  Scbituane  at  Scshekc,  102  ; discovers  the 
Zambesi  River,  104  ; returns  to  Kolobeng,  105  ; 
sends  his  family  to  England,  106  ; sets  out  on 
a journey  across  the  continent,  107 ; reaches 
Liuyanti,  114;  is  attacked  with  fever,  118; 
leaves  Linyanti,  119;  reaches  the  Zambesi, 
120 ; ascends  the  river  in  canoes,  121  ; dis- 
covers the  Leeba  River,  123 ; returns  to  Lin- 
yanti to  prepare  for  his  journey  to  the  West 
Coast,  124 ; embarks  on  the  Chobe,  125 ; as- 
cends the  Zambesi  and  the  Leeba  to  the  town 
of  Manenko,  126 ; visits  Shinte,  chief  of  the 
Baton  da,  130  ; sets  out  from  Shinte’ s capital, 
132 ; reaches  Katcma’s  town,  133  ; Lake  Dilolo, 
135  ; discovers  the  Kasai  River,  135  ; the  peo- 
ple of  this  region,  136 ; encounter  with  hostile 
Chiboque,  136 ; crosses  the  Quito  and  enters 
Portuguese  territory,  140 ; arrives  at  St.  Paul 
de  Loanda,  where  he  remains  four  months, 
141 ; leaves  Loanda  on  his  return  journey,  142  ; 
boat  attacked  by  a hippopotamus,  145  ; reaches 
Linyanti,  145 ; resolves  to  descend  the  Zam- 
besi to  the  East  Coast,  146 ; discovers  the 
Victoria  Palls,  146;  reaches  Quillimane,  150; 
sails  for  England,  150 ; returns  to  Africa  to  ex- 
plore the  Zambesi  River  qnd  its  affluents,  335 ; 
scenery  along  the  river,  336;  explores  the 
river  Shire,  339 ; discovers  Lake  Shirwa,  340 ; 
discovers  Lake  Nyassa,  340;  re-visits  Lin- 
yanti, 341 ; death  of  Mrs.  Livingstone,  341 ; 
the  expedition  recalled  by  the  Government, 
342  ; returns  to  England,  342  ; summary  of  the 
results  of  the  expedition,  342  ; returns  to  Africa, 
strikes  into  the  interior,  and  spends  six  years 
in  exploring  the  Lake  region,  360 ; is  found  at 
Ujiji  by  Stanley,  365 ; explores  with  Stanley 
the  northern  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  367 ; 
letter  to  James  Gordon  Bennett,  Jr.,  368  ; his 
“ Last  Journals,”  375 ; origin  of  his  Seven 
Years’  Expedition,  375 ; sets  out  from  Mikin- 
dany  Bay  for  I.ake  Nyassa,  376;  difficulties 
with  his  men,  376  ; horrors  of  the  Kilwa  slave- 
trade,  377  ; reaches  I.ake  Nyassa,  377  ; rounds 
the  southern  shore  of  the  I.ake  and  marches 
northward,  378  ; curious  burial  custom,  379 ; 
reaches  the  Chambeze  River,  380 ; loss  of  his  : 
medicine-chest,  380 ; reaches  Lake  Liemba, 
the  southern  part  of  Tanganyika,  381  ; des- 
patch to  Lord  Clarendon  describing  his  ex- 
plorations, 382  ; falls  in  with  Arab  ivory  and 
slave-hunters,  384 ; account  of  Nsama’s  people,  1 


385 ; discovers  Lake  Moero,  386  ; visits  Ca- 
sembe’s  town,  387 ; reception  by  Cascmbc, 
388  ; detention  in  Lunda,  392  ; discovers  Lake 
Bangweolo,  392  ; war  between  the  Arabs  and 
natives,  393 ; treatise  on  the  Central  African 
climate,  394  ; theory  of  the  Nile  sources,  397  ; 
march  to  Lake  Tanganyika,  398  ; has  a severe 
attack  of  pneumonia,  398  ; reaches  Ujiji,  399  ; 
sets  out  for  Manyuema,  400 ; description  of 
the  country  and  people,  400  ; tries  to  reach  the 
Lualaba  River,  401  ; laid  up  three  months 
with  ulcers  on  the  feet,  402  ; naming  the  rivers 
and  lakes  discovered,  402  ; account  of  the  Soko, 
a new  ape,  403  ; reaches  the  Lualaba,  406  ; 
frightful  massacre  of  the  natives  by  Arabs* 
406  ; Livingstone  overcome  with  horror,  409  ; 
returns  to  Ujiji,  410  ; meeting  with  Stanley, 

410  ; accompanies  Stanley  to  Unyanyembe, 

411  ; object  of  his  last  explorations,  411  ; here- 
ditary hippopotamus-hunters,  412  ; sets  out  for 
Lake  Bangweolo,  414;  failing  health,  414; 
crosses  the  Chambeze,  415  ; last  days,  415  ; 
death,  416 ; his  character  and  achievements, 
417  ; buried  in  Westminster  Abbey,  418. 


Loanda,  St.  Paul  de 141 

Loango 28 

Loangwa  River 379 

Lobal 183 

Lobemba 382 

Lobisa 38a 

Lokalueje  River 132 

Londa 126,  388 

London  Missionary  Society 88,  465 

Lualaba  River.. 36,  57,  58,  369,  373,  399,  402,  406 

Luapula  River 57*  38^ 

Lukuga  River 399 

Luta  Nzige.  ( See  Albert  Nyanza.) 

Lyon,  George  Francis 5° 

Mabotsa 89 

Mackenzie,  Bishop 343 


Madagascar,  its  geographical  position,  35  ; phy- 
sical geography,  35  ; climate,  35  ; inhabitants, 
35 ; conversion  to  Christianity,  36 ; ancient 
religion,  36;  reign  of  Radama  I.,  37;  mis- 
sionaries driven  out,  38  ; persecution  of  the 
native  converts,  38  ; accession  of  Radama  II.  ; 
missionaries  recalled,  39  ; progress  of  the  island 
in  civilization,  40. 

Madeiras,  the 34 

Magungo  J03,  305,  315 

Magyar,  Ladislals.  59  ; early  life,  171  ; strikes 
inland  from  Benguela,  171  ; terrible  passage  of 
the  coast  mountains,  172  ; scales  the  T.ingi- 
I.ingi  mountains,  174  ; establishes  his  residence 
in  Bihe,  175  ; visits  the  King,  176  ; native  su* 


494 


INDEX. 


perstitions,  175, 177  ; marries  the  king’s  daugh- 
ter, 178  ; sets  out  for  the  Mohiwa  Kingdom, 
179  ; crosses  the  Oloxvihenda  forests,  179  ; resi- 
dency in  Moluwa,  181  : returns  to  Bihe,  182  ; 
reaches  the  Kunene  River,  183  ; other  explora- 
tions, 183. 

Makololo,  the 97,  104,  116,  119,  123,  345 

Makololo  dance 123 

Makololo  huts 123 

Makombwe,  the 412 

Malagarazi  River 253 

Malaghetta  or  Grain  Coast 28 

Mambari,  the 105 

Marnochisane,  daughter  of  Sebituane.  ..104,  114 

Manenko,  a female  chief 

Manganja,  the 379 

Manyuema 399,  401 

Masinje  River 377 

Matiamvo 133 

Matsebele,  the 487 

Mauritius 34 

Mazitu  the 378 

Mbene 192 

Mbozhwa,  the  393 

Meshera,  the 

Mesne 

Metals,  value  of  in  Africa 

Methodist  Missions 469 

Mikincany  Bay 376 

Mirambo 363 

Mittoo  tribes,  the 435 

Moero,  Lake 384,  386 

Moffat,  Robert,  471  ; joins  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society,  371  ; goes  to  Namaqua-land, 
472  ; at  Africaner’s  Kraal,  472  ; missionary  jour- 
neys, 475  ; journey  to  Griqua-land,  476  ; ad- 
venture with  baboons,  477  ; visit  to  Cape  Town, 
477  ; settlers  at  Kuruman,  481  ; rain-makers, 
482  ; missionary  labors,  486  ; houses  in  trees, 
487  ; return  to  England,  482. 

Mofwe,  Lake 387 

Molehabangue 486 

Moluwa 179,  181 

Moluwas,  the 181 

Mombas 54 

Monbuttoo,  the 447 

Moors,  the 22 

Moravian  Missions 466 

Morocc^ 26 

Moshesh,  King  of  the  Basutos 486 

“ Mountains  of  the  Moon” 10 

Mourning-time  with  the  Camma 205 

Mozambique 33 

Mp  mgwe,  the 1S3 

Mpongwe  method  of  choosing  a king 186 

M'rooli,  capital  of  Unyoro 3o8 


Mtesa,  King  of  Uganda 277.  279 

Mu-Kankala,  the 180 

Mummery 454 

Mundombe,  the 172 

Munza,  King  of  the  Monbuttoo 440,  443,  446 

Murchison  Falls 318,  339 

Murray 93 

Murzook 62 

Naliele 

Nangoro,  chief  of  the  Ovambos 155 

Natal 29,  30 

Ndiayai,  King  of  the  Fan 197 

Nccho,  King  of  Egypt 1 

Ngami,  Lake 96,  163,  165 

Nganye,  a Niam-Niam  chief. 436 

Niam-Niam,  the 437 

Niger,  the 12, -57 

Nile,  account  of  the 11,  53,  290,  397,  458 

Nsama 384 

Nsewue,  the  Akka 455 

Ntambounay  Falls 193 

Nubia. . . 26 

Nubians,  the. 20 

Nyassa  Lake 340 

Obbo 301 

Obindji,  chief  of  the  Bakalai 207 

Ogowai  River 232,  236 

Okamabuti 154 

Okavangari,  the 169 

Okavango  River 169 

Old  Kalabar  Missions 469 

Olenda,  King  of  the  Ashiras 215 

Olowihenda  forests 180 

Omanbonde,  Lake 153,  168 

Omar,  Sheikh 68 

Orange  River,  the 13 

Ostrich,  the 107 

Oswell 93 

Otjidambi 167 

Otjombinde 159 

Otjimbingue 170 

Ovambo,  the 154 

Overweg.  (See  Barth.) 

Palace  of  the  King  of  Uganda 278 

Palmerston  Fountain 402 

Palmyra  Palm 95 

Paris  Missionary  Society 466 

Park,  Mungo 44 

Patooan  Island 320 

Petherick 56 

Phoenicians,  the 

Plant,  Mr.,  of  Natal 6 

Polygamy  190,  201,  210,  212,  433,  449 


INDEX. 


495 


Munza’s  capital,  440  ; Munza’s  palace,  440 ; 
state  reception  by  the  King,  441  ; the  public 
hall,  442  ; Munza,  443  ; Munza  dancing  before 
his  wives,  446  ; account  of  the  Monbuitoo,  447  ; 
their  cannibalism,  450;  the  Pygmies,  451; 
Adimokoo,  452  ; Pygmy  soldiers,  454  : Nsewue, 
the  Akka,  455  ; returns  to  Ghana's  seriba, 
456  ; the  seriba  burnt,  Schwcinfurth  barely  es- 
caping with  his  life,  457 ; later  travels,  457  ; re- 
turns to  Europe,  458. 

Sebituane 97,  99,  102 

Sechele 91 

Radama  I.  of  Madagascar 36  Segu.. 


Port  Rek 4»5 

Portuguese,  they  circumnavigate  Africa 2 

Portuguese  settlements 3° 

Ptolemies,  the * 

Pungo  Adongo,  rocks  of »43 

Pygmies,  the 45* 

Quacha,  the  17 

(Jucngucza,  King 204 

Quillimane >5° 

Quito  River >4° 


Radama  II  38 

Rasoherina,  Queen  of  Madagascar 40 

Rain-makers 9*>  4®2 

Ranavalona,  Queen  of  Madagascar 38 

Redmann,  the  missionary 5 

Religion,  native 26,  464 

Remandji,  chief  of  the  Apingi 218 

Rhinoceros,  the 

Richardson.  (See  Barth.) 

Rionga 307,  3 *1 

Ripon  Falls 

Romans,  the 

Rovuma  River 

Kumanika,  King  of  Karagwe 

Ruppelt,  the  explorer 

Russeger,  the  explorer 4 

Rusist  River 367 

Sackatoo 34 

Sahara,  Desert  of 8,  27 

Sanshureh  River i«2 

Scheppmansdorf 152 

Schmidt,  George 466 

Schweinfurth,  Dr.  Georg,  419 ; first  journey 
in  Africa,  419  : aided  by  the  Humboldt  Insti- 
tution to  make  a botanical  exploration  of  the 
equatorial  Nile  region,  419;  lands  in  Africa 
second  time,  420  ; joins  the  company  of  one  of 
the  ivory  merchants,  422  : starts  from  Khar- 
toom,  422  ; account  of  the  Shillook  tribe,  423  ; 
struggle  through  the  grass-barrier,  42s ; voy- 
age up  the  Gazelle  River.  425 : the  march  in- 
land to  Ghatta’s  seriba , 426 ; account  of  the 
Dinkas,  426  ; the  seriba,  428  : explores  the 
Dyoor  River,  429;  festival  at  Geer,  429.  ac- 
count of  the  Dyoor  tribe,  430  ; plants  a vege- 
table garden,  431  ; account  of  the  Bongo, 
431  ; joins  the  expedition  of  Mohammed  Aboo 
Sammnt,  434  ; sets  out  for  the  country  of  the 
Niam-Niam,  434  : account  of  the  Mittoo  tribe, 
435  ; the  final  start,  436  ; account  of  the  Niam- 
Niam,  437:  journey  southward,  438;  the 
water-shed  of  the  Nile,  439  ; entry  into  King 


Sekeletu,  chief  of  the  Makololo 114 

Sekwebu,  the  Makololo 150 

Senegal,  the  river 

Scnegambia 27 

Serval,  Lieutenant,  his  travels  on  theOgowai, 
231  ; ascends  the  river  in  canoes,  231  ; hostility 
of  the  natives,  232 ; visits  the  Sacred  Lake 
Jononga,  233  ; curious  phenomena,  233,  234  ; 
reception  by  the  priest-king  Jondo-Goiro,  235  ; 
visits  Anengtie  Iaike,  236;  returns  to  the  roast, 
236. 

Shary,  or  Shari,  the 79 

Shaw 357 

Shckianis,  the 190 

Shendy 47 

Shillooks,  the 422 

Shinte,  chief  of  the  Balonda 130 

Shire  River 339,  342 

Shirwa,  Lake 340 

Shokuane 91 

Shutuhs,  the 21 

Shobo,  the  Bushman 100,  101 

Sierra  Leone 28 

Slave  Coast 28 

Slave-trade, ....  103,  115,  210,  241,  329,  331,  352, 
376.  377.  3S6,  457,  459 

Snake-hunt  in  the  Dilolo  Swamp 183 

Sobat  River 290 

Socotra 34 

Sofala 33 

Soko,  the 403 

Somali  country 33 

Somerville,  the  explorer 4 

Soud  bin  Sayd  363 

Southern  American  Baptist  Missions 470 

Sparrman,  Andrew 43 

Si'EKE,  Cart.  John  Hanning,  267  ; joins  Bur- 
ton’s expedition  to  Lake  Tanganyika,  238  ; 
discovers  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  266  ; organizes 
a second  expedition  10  Africa  in  company  with 
Capt.  Grant,  268  ; starts  from  Zanzibar  for  the 
interior,  209:  the  caravan,  263;  arrival  at 
Kazeh,  271 ; detained  by  native  wars,  271  ; 


496 


INDEX. 


march  across  Uzinza  and  Usui,  272  ; Karagwe, 
273  ; interview  with  King  Rumanika,  273 ; a 
royal  beauty,  276 : starts  for  Uganda,  277  ; ar- 
rival at  King  Mtesa’s  palace,  277  ; introduc- 
tion at  court,  278  ; detention  in  Uganda,  285  ; 
sets  out  for  Unyoro,  286  ; reaches  the  Nile, 
286  ; ascends  the  river  to  the  point  where  it 
flows  out  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  287  ; contin- 
ues the  march  to  the  capital  of  Unyoro,  288  ; ex- 
tortions of  King  Kamrasi,  289  ; descending 
the  Nile,  289 ; march  to  Gondokoro,  289 ; 
meets  Baker,  290  ; account  of  the  Nile  and  its 
affluents,  290 ; return  to  England,  and  death, 


291. 

" Sponges,” 378,  395 

Spingbok,  the 18 


Stanley,  Henry  M.,  355;  commissioned  by 
the  Herald  to  search  for  Livingstone,  355  ; or- 
ganizing his  expedition,  356 ; the  route  of 
travel  between  the  coast  and  Lake  Tangan- 
yika, 353  ; summary  of  Livingstone’s  journeys 
from  1866  to  the  time  when  Stanley  found  him 
at  Ujiji,  360 ; Stanley's  march  to  Unyan- 
yembe,  361  ; news  of  Livingstone,  361  ; arrival 
at  Unyanyembe,  363  ; war  with  the  natives, 
363  ; defeated,  363  ; makes  a southern  detour 
to  Ujiji,  364  ; meeting  with  Livingstone,  365  ; 
explores  the  northern  end  of  Lake  Tanganyika, 
367  ; Rusisi  River,  flows  into,  and  not  out  of, 
the  Lake,  367 ; Livingstone’s  letter  to  Mr. 
Bennett,  369 ; returns  with  Livingstone  to 
Unyanyembe,  371  ; march  to  the  coast,  371 ; 
arrival  in  England,  372  ; honors  accorded  him, 


373- 

St.  Helena 34 

St.  Thomas 34 

Susi 376,  415 

Suwarora,  King  of  Usui . 272 

Sway  Rb'er 439 

Syed  Burghash,  Sultan  of  Zanzibar 463 

Tanganyika,  Lake 259,  358,  367,  399 

Tarrangolle 299 

Tete 146 

Thomson,  the  explorer. 4 

Tibbps,  the 20 

Tiger,  the 19 

Tirabuctoo 33 

Tinnd,  Madame  & Mile 56 

Tirikeza,  the 242 

Transvaal  Republic  32 

Tree-huts 487 

Tripoli 26 

Trotter,  Captain 4 

Tsad,  cr  Tchad,  I^ake 3,  8 

Istetse  fly,  the  101 


Tuaricks,  the 23 

Tuckey,  James  Kingston 48 

Tunis 26 

Tunobis 159 

Turks  in  Africa 53 

Uganda 277 

Ugogi...'. 246 

Ugogo 248,  362 

Ujiji 263 

Ulungu 382 

Universities  Mission,  the 342,  343 

Unyanyembe 251 

Unyamwezi 250,  253 

Unyoro 286,  306 

Usagara  244 

Usui 272 

Uzinza 271 

Vacovia 313 

Vaillant,  the  explorer 4 

Vardon,  Captain 5 

Vegetation  of  Africa 15 

Victoria  Falls 146,  349 

Victoria  Nile,  the 314,  321 

Victoria  Nyanza 55,  287 

Waday 34 

Wagogo,  the 248 

Wahuma,  the 271 

VVahumba,  the 249 

Wajiji,  the 264 

Wak’hutu,  the 240 

Wakimbu,  the 255 

Walfisch  Bay 152 

Wanyamwezi,  the 255 

Wasagara,  the 245 

Watershed  of  the  Nile 439 

Wazaramo,  the 239 

Webb’B  River 402 

Welle  River 440 

Wesleyan  Missions 466 

West  Coast  27 

White  Nile 53,  290 

Windy  or  Windward  Coast 28 

Yorubah 467 

Young’s  River 402 

Zalyanyama  Mountains 378 

Zambesi,  the 13,  104,  120,  128,  150,  335,  351 

Zanzibar 33,  35s 

Zebra,  the 17 

Zouga,  the 95 

Zulu-land 30 

Zungomero.  ...1 240 


